My CHEAP Camaro ENGINE Looks BRAND NEW Inside *I Didn't Believe It Myself*
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- My $4,000 2011 Chevy Camaro RS is my tech deep dive. The 3.6L LLT V6 is close to timing chain failure and full of sludge. So we're using it for experiments with chemical cleaners and anything else I want to test. The dealership told the previous owner the 300HP direct injected engine had to be replaced to fix it. I decided to clean it with BG Products Dynamic Engine Cleaner, then the Platinum Fuel Injection Cleaner.
The best filter for your V6 Camaro: bit.ly/3eMcVju
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#CarRescue #V6Camaro #CheapCamaro
A chemical bath in the parts cleaner would take care of the residual sludge on the heads. Nice job!
Hey, I was working at Ground FX Oshawa in 2011. We were the GM subcontractor responsible for putting those graphics on the car when they left the factory. If you have the traveller document (it’s yellow) it’ll have some initials on it. I could tell you who put the graphics on the car. It could have even been me.
The pcv valve problem causes the discoloration of the one side compared to the other. I think they fixed it two iterations after this LLT v6
Very different scenario but I had an 05 honda odyssey that I maintained religiously for many years. I had the valve covers off many times for regular maintenance and both heads looked spotless. At 180k miles I ended up selling it cheap to a friend and about 2~3 years later he has a miss and its due for a valve adjustment. The rear head which is the one that deactivates looked red like that and had sludge build-up. He admitted to me that he would only change the oil then the oil change indicator light came on and it wasn't right away but when he had time and only paid for the cheapest oil at the quick lube where I had been using synthetics more frequently. I wonder had the previous owner done a better job with the oil changes if this on the camaro wouldn't have been as big a deal.
Yeah, both the LY7 (first 3.6) and LLT (second version of the 3.6, and uses direct injection) have this PCV system. The LFX fixes this problem... however, there is an updated valve cover or valve cover gasket that fixes this
JM811Cars do you have a link to this
The LFX you just drill out the hole. It's a common thing found by will at overkill who is the professor on these camaros. The LGX is the first motor without the issue because they spoke with some of the engineers about the problems/fixes
@@tomlindo2863 engine was cooked IMHO
I heard Hoovie is so jealous of your V6 Camaro that he left you off the invite list for his trip to the lake with Wizard and Ninja.....true?? 😂
I pulled out about 5 gallons of carbon from a 351 Windsor a lot of years ago, that was after an engine flush and treatment with almost everything under the sun... Yes each treatment removed a little of the carbon and sludge, but nothing dissolved it all. And likely that was a good thing because if all of that sludge and carbon dissolved at the same time it would have likely clogged every oil passage.
I ran the engine another 70,000 miles with synthetic oil and when I dropped the oil pan the engine was spotless. So, if your engine is really trashed with carbon and gunk, don't expect a single treatment to fix your problem, but over time with really good detergent oil your engine will literally clean itself. I'll note that one day after an oil change the oil was jet black.... pretty much even after I manually cleaned it and until it finally would stay clean for a while when it had about 165,000 miles on it. I got the car with 80 K miles and it had been exclusively run on strait 30 weight non detergent Valvoline oil, which the previous owner proudly recommended I continue to use. It took good synthetic detergent oil almost as long to clean the engine as it took for the junk oil to trash it.
As to why one side of your engine is cleaner, check the oil routing. Lots of engines run the oil through one cylinder head and crossover to the other side... so one side gets the fresh oil from the filter first... just a thought.
Non-detergent straight 30 is actually pretty hard to find and really expensive (its what most air compressors call for). Why would that jobronie waste his money pouring that stuff into something that obvious needs regular engine oil?
Yep . . . the passenger side bank doesn't get as much oil pressure. But, a clogged PCV can also contribute to sludge on that side.
@@leonarddaneman810 yup, apparently on the V6's that's the cause of the unequal colouration. It's more likely the clogged PCV because so many others have experienced exactly this, but I would personally run some extra flushing oil until things looked a little more equal myself
@@joannaatkins822 Not to mention the inherent flaw in direct injection, loss of the detergent action cleaning the valves, so they carbon up. I had a 1993 Lincoln with the 4.6 3v, and it smoked and carboned up due to the placement of the EGR valve. It was a design flaw. You just had to manually clean the EGR every year or so.
Maxwelhse Non detergent straight 30 isn’t hard to find at all, every tractor dealership in the world carries it.
So much respect for JohnRoss as he really knows his stuff, does his own work, and when he makes a mistake, he owns up, shows how things went wrong, and how to fix them...all without the egos we find on some other sites.
Couple early oil changes and the internals look like they will be completely sludge free. Properly impressed. And the valves aren't too bad, be interesting to see them after the second treatment if you are so inclined.
When you edit your videos, remember most of us watch these late at night, or early in the morning. We have the volume up so we can hear you then your music blows out our eardrums, or wakes up the neighborhood.
F-NA man, F-N A
or worse, ear buds !
When you change the PCV valves don't forget to replace the hoses as well as they will also be filled with gunk. Also I believe you can remove the sump on these engines with very little extra work. Clean the oil pickup as it will have chunks and lumps on it still. The best fix for those 3.6 engines is a decent sized catch can filter, modified breathers {Up sized} in the rocker covers. The inlet manifold is easy to remove and you can get them pretty clean by physically cleaning them by blasting with walnut shells. It only takes about an hour to do one of these just make sure the valve is closed.
i wish someone else was filming as you did the work instead of yourself.
That's the only gripe that I have with his videos. He's always holding the camera and it moves way to much, along with not getting great shots. A magnetic base would be great just to stick on the hood or in the engine bay. Even a tripod would be fine.
Frl, or just a tripod or like Dan R says a magnet base to stick it somewhere.
A tripod maybe? =P
Taylor Ray does an amazing camera work!! it would be cool to see more effort and maybe, less looking at himself on camera =)
But the videos are good overall.
Can not STAND the hand held camera! Get a tripod FFS. I'm about to unsub due to this reason alone.
@@allgonquin I've gone back and forth about that. I get that everyone has a style and he can do what he wants, but when you can't do half the things you're talking about because you only have one hand, maybe that's telling you something.
My shop teacher in college showed us the General Motors video about taking apart the valvetrain on these engines and I remember saying to myself "Never buy one of these". However, the prices are so low on these 6 cylinder models that it feels like they are worth buying just to make V8 swap candidates. I still don't understand why GM never put the 5.3L in the Camaro and Corvette's but I'd love to make an all aluminum 5.3L Camaro just as a daily driver.
A couple of factors likely contributed.
In the Camaro at least, I don't know the 5.3L would have made a whole lot of sense in terms of product segmentation. It wasn't significantly more powerful than the 3.6L for the weight and fuel economy penalties it would have incurred, which matters more in a lower production volume sports car than a high volume truck. It likely would have added 3-5 additional Camaro trims for dealers to keep track of, which wouldn't have been worth it for relative sales volume. In the Corvette, after the C4 they started having minimum performance increments with every generation's base model having 25-50hp more than the previous generation's. After the C5, a 5.3L of any variety would've been a downgrade over the LS1. Besides, in a halo car, why put in a less powerful engine at minimal production cost savings over the next biggest one?
Maybe you're coming from the perspective that the 5.3L saw use in a handful of GM's late 00's large sedans. This might have been due to packaging constraints, it could have been easier to adapt to the smaller space than a 6.0L; another concern is the ability to deliver that power to the road. Much more than 300hp may have been too much for the front-drive Impala family platform to really handle as a production car.
Finally, one key element to the 5.3L family is its longer stroke than its bore - what's known as "under-square." This is good for trucks because it produces more torque at lower RPMs, but not so great for sports cars because it also results in less horsepower towards the top end, and often a lower redline.
You mad a good choice doing the work yourself. A mechanic told me my engine was shot and I needed a $4000 engine job. It was a $15 timing chain tensioner making the noise. After a new timing tensioner the engine sounds brand new.
look up the definition of conflation.
I've used BG products for about 16 yrs. The first time I saw an engine come apart that the guy religiously used BG MOA I was a believer. His truck (Chevy 5.7) had 170k and the internals all looked new (we were just replacing some leaking seals and gaskets), I've been using the stuff every since. I really like their MOA and 44K fuel system cleaner.
Dang, even when you're trying to get rid of the BMW it still manages to give you problems.
a fine example of over-engineering
reelreeler ze germans man
This is great. I have a 2011 camaro ls w/ 6 speed and it has 71k miles. I love the fact your dissasembly here will help me if I need to do nearly anything on it now. It's been a good car thus far and I have not had to tear into it. I also have Foose wheels on mine (they are legends) w/ 20's staggered and the car is a joy to drive.
These camaros have such a nice body shape they are worth saving and preserving
Impressive, running the engine with one more bottle and then running fresh oil threw it in between and running it hotter by running less coolant in the system would probably easily be able to legitamently completely restore an engine with external parts fed by oil, such as a turbo charger
Trying to figure out what you think a new engine looks like inside...
You've got the intake manifold off, you might as well just media blast the valves and be done with it. The chemical treatment doesn't get all the valves evenly anyway nor dose it work as well as media blasting.
Agreed you can get walnut blasting set ups with a vacuum attachment and everything really cheap on Amazon. The runners and valves with look brand new and polished. He already has it apart.
Golden. I used to have a Nissan Almera that I bought for £50 it had a full service when I got it and I changed the oil everytime it lost its clarity on the dipstick (turned from clear golden to brown/black) 35,000 miles with no issues sold it at 137,000. You cannot beat changing the oil
This is an awesome series. Amazing how much you can do with chemicals inside of a completely neglected engine.
Something you can try is Seafoam as an engine flush - added @ 300 miles before your next oil change. I find it cleans amazing. Just use the recommended amounts of Seafoam on the back of the can.
Good oil and regular changes leave your engine clean without additives
@@benjamindavidson632 True in most engines but not for these engines. George is referring to this gummed up engine & SeaFoam does work great. They are flawed with this 1 side cleaner than the other from the factory.
@@benjamindavidson632 or any crankcase recirc system that puts garbage back in teh intake. Seafoam is good for this, but not on DI engines.
I LOVE Milwaukee tools. Got a 1/2" impact for Christmas and their new trimmer for Father's Day. I already had an 18V hammer drill (like 10+ years old), and small blower. SOLID tools, that work great, one battery type. Watching RUclips I've decided I need to get into the M12 stuff and a ratchet next!
Would it make more sense to do the 2nd flush before you change out the timing chains so you don’t run all the junk through the new ones? I’m sure the difference is minimal if at all. I suppose if there’s a chance the possible carbon and sludge could gum them up or lead to faster wearing I would take the time to flush the engine with the old chains that are coming out. I’m no expert just an interesting topic maybe. Thanks for the amazing content. Keep up the amazing work!
Overall, yes the $500 kit is worth it. In regards to the bad luck with the harmonic balancer, a machinist rule is a man is nothing without the right tool.
But great video. And I look forward with everyone else to see the timing chain video next.
I used graphite oil when it first come out in 1983 in my Camaro.. The stuff was caked on everywhere. Problem was the damn engine never had an issue. And I already had a GM 350 4 bolt ready to put in. When it went south... It never did...Ended up sticking the engine in another Camaro that the rings had come off two cylinders. I found them in the oil pan still intact. Made one hell of noise coming home...
Use seafoam 200 miles before an oil change and it’ll get rid mostly of that varnish💪🏾 1oz for every qt of oil..:I recommend the high mileage one since u got over 100k
a couple of cans of Liqui Moly engine flush in the oil, then run it for 20/25 minutes (double of what it says in the instructions) in idle will clean that sludge, and for just 30 dollars. I use a can before every oil change and the engine is running flawlessly after 100K
From what I've read the early 3.6 had a sludge problem on one side due to a poor PCV design. There is a correction for it and later models of the engine already have the fix.
I never get tired of watching people restore engines and get them running.
If you happen to get another camaro in similar condition and price can you fix it , make a video of it . How much would you want to sell it?
I saw that car wizard made a video about a 70's something dark blue Buick which he found out had serious engine problems and he wasn't interested in touching it. I was wondering if he asked you about it or anyone else?
this and the video with that dynamic bath is the best vid about this carbon deal so far on youtube. period
That’s great it cleaned the “crankcase” but at some point all the debris you freed up had to pass through the bearings and oil pump in route to the filter. So the most critical aspects of the engine you aren’t inspecting.
There was like 3 oil changes as part of the flush, along with 3 oil filter changes. I think he's good.
Nice of GM to make it so easy to work on!
Would be even nicer if they would make an engine that you didn't need to work on.See you have been switching the fleet over to Mopar Randy.Looks like GM screwed you 1 time too many!
Exactly what I was going to say. Build a better engine instead of ease of working on.
they need to bring back the 3800 v6
That is an absolute nightmare. The 283 V8 in my 1964 Nova SS looks so simple and beautiful compared to that mess. And it is SO easy to work on. Not that it needs to be worked on, I built it myself. But I love to tinker.
When you get in there and find some stretch but not a major failure, make sure you check the Camshaft End Cap clearance with a 2.0 or 2.5mm allen wrench. If the allen wrench fits behind the phaser and the camshaft cap; that head needs to be replaced. Bottom of the cap up front under the camshaft will be worn down. Two new heads usually run similar pricing as a long block. Plus it comes with a warranty
Usually the driver's side is cleaner, in a well maintained VVT; the PCV port on the Passenger side is TINY
Did the timing chain on my 09 cts ly7 v6. Also destroyed the balancer lol. When you put the front cover back on get some my bolts and cut the heads off to align the cover back on
do a catch can for this beauty when you're done! stop that carbon build up once it's up and running (: crazy how easy it is to gut out that engine bay tho
*edit* dont delete the pcv. gotta vent that crank somehow ;) GDI should always have catch can. rip m6, shame BMW screwed the pooch on the engineering there. Such nice cars
having to do it to my equinox. buildup has cost me a exhaust manifold cat and both 02 sensors and several weeks of time fixing it all. im not a gdi fan at all.
Definitely needs a catch can on the PCV hose.
@@380.motorsports i think all gdi should have one.
As I understand it from JR, Half the parts on all engines are "All that Good Stuff"
Watched this with interest as the oil pressure gauge on my SUV would sometimes drop and sometimes go to zero. Kill the engine and restart it would be fine until it did that again. Changed oil and added a pint of MMO and drove it several thousand miles, oil pressure dropped a couple of times and then never again. Changed oil again and that problem went away. Easy to do.
Good work JR - this is so much easier on a RWD vehicle! The 3" 3 jaw puller from harbor freight (#8832) will pull the balancer if you don't want to wait. I do not advise drilling the PCV - tried it and it creates a whistle and not the good kind, like sounds of internal engine failure not turbo, and I ended up spending like $35 to replace it with O'Reillys finest. Also don't forget that the front alternator stud threads into the cover and has to be removed to get the timing cover off.
A 3.6L V6 takes up a lot less room that the LS 5.0L V8. BG products as I wrote before are really good. Have used that on all my direct engine cars (GM 3.6L V6 DI and 2.0L I4 DI engines) and get over 200,000 on every one of them without having to do any of this. Just do a the fuel/valve cleaning every 30,000 maintenance and you won't have any problems. They are good engines but you do need to take care of them. Not particularly surprised seeing inside they did a good job here as well but wondered if it could compensate for years of neglect. Looks like it could.
The BG additive doesn't build performance, but brings the performance back and with that said, I highly recommend BG additives and have been using them for years, EPR and 44k fuel additive are my favorite
Not to be negative, I've watched the original and this one but I'm not all that impressed. It has helped some but my biggest complaint is it appears to have had little effect on the varnish.
I know varnish will not effect the motor in any way, but varnish is about the easiest stuff to remove short of completely loose free moving sludge. The most difficult thing to remove is hardened sludge, it sticks to everything and mostly very hard, far harder than the sludge you where able to remove with your fingers.
That's mostly my complaint, not saying it didn't help but very limited impact on the varnish, no serious sludge seems to have been removed, and only the super loose sludge which would naturally fall to the bottom of the oil pan has been removed.
Even normal motor oil should be perfectly capable of removing that in its own right. Speaking of oil pan it would probably be a good idea to drop it and remove any sludge remaining in the pan, and clean the oil pump catch screen which will undoubtedly have sludge wedged in it.
Don’t worry about the balancer man. We all just live and learn. And as long as we are learning we are improving 👍👍👍
pro tip: a tripod lets you use BOTH hands.
oh hell, he never uses a funnel. Forget about a tripod.
HAHAHAHAAAA NAILED IT
So does a chest cam
Thanks for pointing that out I love the guys videos but he needs to eliminate the inspector gadget filming technique
Basically it's a $500 oil change, I bet you could do something similar with Marvel mystery oil or Sea foam for a lot less money.
"Better than a lot of BMW's" Now that is a vote of confidence !!
Very nice JR! Are you planning performance mods for it? I'll love to see something like that!
And, F for the M6. I'm sad for that car.
I'd like to watch JR Go out and get a head mounted GoPro, so I don't get seasick every episode. Friendly suggestion.
Didn’t notice the Foose wheels before. Nice!
Cover up those intake ports you don’t want something falling into the engine
LOL imagine man. Fuck that would suck
@@MLProductions.1 been there, done that...once!! you WILL remember to cover the ports after that!
That BG product did a great job...that V6 engine looks to be very well built when seen in its naked form on video , you got a terrific deal on a nice car like that for 4k dollars....nice work !
Nice you got it mostly clean. Yeah I would be making sure any sludge build-up is completely gone, you don't want it blocking any of the lifters up.
I'm not sure a $250 battery powered drop light is a rational purchase.
Assuming there's power in the garage, lol.
I'm pretty sure GM is watching this video too. LOL
Making there cars shitier and harder to work on I'm sure.. and from china
The previous owner boiled the engine when the water pump went.That's why the sludge baked on the rocker tops.Wow.It may have been the original oil,and if it was that bad,then the coolant was too=burned water pump.Explains why a good car was ruined.Better bore-scope the cylinders.
the sludge is a product of a gdi engine. the pcv stops up. they start burning oil and then you get a sludged up motor and few parts worn out super fast.
I agree. I had a mopar 3.5L, which tore up the roller end of rocker arm. When I tore it down the right head was clean as a whistle, but the left head with bad rocker was dark golden brown like yours, and the closer you got to the #1 cyl bad rocker the darker the golden brown coloring was. So I think heat caused the oil to bake like that. You said the water pump had been replaced, so I'm thinking the way the water circulated, the Lt head on your v6 tended to run hotter with the pump dying.
In the Uk we have the same trouble with our V6 Gm engines one bank is imaculate the other all tarnished , think it is one bank runs much hotter than the other and Pcv is only on one side
I love Royal Purple for the fuel system!
Let’s also clarify. That’s not a balancer, it’s a damper. The balancer is integrated into the crank and sometimes there’s a counter balance shaft.
I actually removed the damper from my Toyota I-4.
I've been looking forward to this video, I have the same engine in my 14 vf ute tho I've been told the chains were updated and if I'm regular with the oil changes I shouldn't have the problems earlier model's were having but I'm taking that information with a grain of salt. Farewell m6, at least you still have the Porsche and the Rolla. Can't wait for the next camaro video. This is one of my dream cars but they aren't cheap over here🇦🇺
My omega apparently had the updated chains but they still stretched.
So many doubters calling it snake oil in the comments of previous videos. Congrats on proving them wrong!
Did you guys inadvertently fist bump at 5:35?
I had an old high mileage Mercedes C230 W202 with questionable service history and plenty sludge. I drained and replaced the oil with diesel and ran the engine for a while. It cleaned the engine well but I probably should have run the engine longer to clean it more.
I’ve actually grown to kinda like your channel, I appreciate some of the cars you purchase!! Thank you
Hey John we have these engines in our ve holden commodores in Australia. (G8) style body . Apparently this problem is caused by a pcv passage problem on the right hand side . Somthing needs to be drilled out for it to fixed properly. Look up vz commodore v6 engine problems on RUclips.
$60 lesson learned on the balancer. Cheap learning!! That thing is scarily clean!! Nice.
That is very common for this engine one side to be much cleaner than the other. Most people install a catch can to help with this. It also helps to keep the intake valves cleaner. All 3.6 GM need a catch can.
First thing I would do is rip those engine covers off and throw them away. Engines run hot enough I don't know why they put those covers on, just for looks I suppose. My brother had a Kia a few years ago with 75000 miles on it he always use synthetic and changed it every 4000 miles because he did a lot of road driving. Was terribly filthy inside. Opened it up because it had a camshaft seal leaking. Wiped out the front bearing support in the head because of oil pickup was sludged up. Went to the salvage yard got an engine with 60,000 miles from a 1-year newer car, guess what top engine cover about 1/4 the size. Apparently Kia figured they had a problem since hot air from the cooling fans went right up under the covers . Opened it up, no sludge inside. Took the cover off my wife's Odyssey and our Toyota threw them away.
A clean cylinder head is nice but secondary !A before and after compression test and a look in the oil sump is the right thong to do !I guess getting a stake in product sales turns a blind eye to the truth. Loose carbon bits you call sludge landed in the sump and elsewhere and may clog passage ways and cause future oil starvation.
Our shop uses Valvoline VPS products; we have a VPS Complete Oil System Clean that cleared the sludge from my former boss' hoopty Forester in one shot, wonder how it compares. (Before the treatment, we only drained about a quart of oil from the pan. After, about three quarts of sludge came out with the gallon of cleaner.) Also wonder how the VPS All Engine First Defense kit compares for cleaning out the intake. Comes out to a bit over $200 to do the pair with a synthetic oil change, including labor.
Wish I would have seen this before I did mine. I didn't know you could pull the solenoids out and a messed one up prying the cover off. The dealership taxed me 2 thousand to replace it. I could have done it myself if I knew it just popped out.
Nice work on the camero! The Milwauke hood light is so worth it, i used all the time on my late nights repairs!
defiantly want to drop the oil pan and clear out the oil pick up. i had to clear it after i de-sluged the same engine in a SV6 commodore
Really great results, the after pic is amazing when comparing to the before pic.
First time I've ever been in on the ground floor of a video premiere.
technology,science,chemistry is always improving. thats cool
Funny to see how the chemical cleaning of valve didn't really do much. This is why you need to clean the valves manually with walnut shells
Or just scrape them if you dont have blasting equip
@@JustinLaNoue True, but the most safe and best way to clean them is with blasting equipment. I need to get mine done on my TSI engine.
It costs around $6-800 USD here in Denmark. Jesus christ...
then you get walnuts in your engine
@@EazyDuz18 Lmao no. You close the valves...
I just did this to my 05 Sentra cuz of these results.. thank you for sharing this!
Chemical bath OR walnut blasting like bmw. I chemical washed the valves on my n54 and they looked almost new. Thats a 48 hr bath in the chambers with the valves closed
Honestly, after a flush, change the oil regularly using synthetic and it will continue to clean up more.
$300 is not worth it. A mix of oil, diesel, and atf, will do a similar job if not better (especially diesel) without the $$$
I AGREE TOTALLY.
Pretty sure that your V6 puller will work on the LS.
We have one at work that was bought to do an Alloytech V6 (basically the same thing, just in a Holden Commodore) and it also got used the other day on an LS, also in a Commodore.
If I could help Watch JR Goes and The Car Ninjas work on the Camero I would drink the cold Bartle Skeets and roll up the fat Woolford and get all schmoked up.
I can't wait! I LOVE that car! JR, please let me know when you're ready to sell that Camaro!
BG Prod works again!!! Can't say enough good things since I started using them 15 years ago.
The PCV valve "Fix" is not a fix. It's a modification that will require an oil catch can (which you will need to empty) to recover the increased amount of oil in blowby gasses that will flow through it as a result of enlarging the passages. Without the oil catch can, you'll get more build up on the valves. The proper fix is to change the PCV at a reasonable interval, perhaps once a year for those using cheap and or non synthetic motor oil which is more likely to sludge and clog the PCV valve and that will allow for more oil to enter the intake from the opposite valve cover which has less of a restriction. Check the air inlet tube, some have a reservoir attached that is sometimes full of oil. The cars that use full synthetic motor oil (Cadillac) along with good oil change intervals 6k miles or less, do not have a sludge problem. Even the motors that use conventional oil, but have good change intervals do not have a sludge problem. Stay away from cheap oil change service deals and there will be no sludge. My 3.6L GDI motor has 200k miles on it and it is cleaner than what you have shown here under the valve covers, but that's the result of full synthetic and regular oil change intervals. I do not use an oil catch can either, but have cleaned the valves before.
Sludge is not so much a design flaw in this motor, or the PCV system, as it is a maintenance deficiency. The early chain problems appear to have more to do with GM doling out high mileage oil change intervals as high as 12k miles, to a general public that doesn't check its oil level, and an occasional motor that could use as much as a quart of oil per 3k miles +/-, or so. The motors were being run low and sometimes out of oil, ruining the chains and some times the motor. It's too soon to say anything about longevity improvements in the LFX motor, because it hasn't been in service long enough yet since its 2012 induction. There are a lot of 200k mile plus 3.6L motors running in their OE configuration without a problem. These mods and treatments may help, but they are not necessary on a well maintained motor.
He moving up to 300,000 subscribers awesome let get him more viewers
The Ninja and hoovie on the Wizard’s yacht. Nice video. Have you been on Wizard’s JR?
I have been on the boat 💯
@@WatchJRGo it's an amazing yacht, man you guys definitely got more money than me of course that's not hard at all lol 😝
@@WatchJRGo on the camaro used some seafoam that stuff does breaks the carbon build up.
@Hitman So you have had work done by him? Or are you basing your comments in a couple of humorous videos you watched on your computer in your room? Also, every mechanic changes parts, kind of what they do. What you are paying for is their knowledge, experience and ability to diagnose so they can "change parts".
@Hitman I only take my cars to a mechanic for things I cant do, for example I just had my 280k 528i in for an alignment and wheel balance since I don't own or have access to the machines required. The alignment was required after I replaced the rear tension struts. So yes I know how to diagnose and repair my own cars and have been doing this for over 30 years.
Many parts today can not be rebuilt by a mechanic. And if you are dealing with customers you have to think in terms of liability and rework. A new part comes with a warranty from the part manufacturer and the manufacturing or remanufacturing is done in controled conditions by people who do it all day every day and are experts at it.
And while I enjoy watching John Ross i would not hold him up as a example of a "great" mechanic. Better than a lot of shade tree mechanics, yes, better than a pro who works on cars all day everyday? No.
And remember when you see David the Car Wizard interacting with Hoovie or anyone else you are watching a entertainment program. All the jokes about how he is shopping for boats or planes or expensive watches as he adds up the bill is just entertainment.
Is he a perfect mechanic? Don't know, I have never met him, I just watch and enjoy his channel. You are not going to find any mechanic that has never had a problem that stumped them or required some guess work. I sell auto parts for a living and sell to many shops that I would never take my car to for anything because I see how they buy several parts for a car and then end up returning many of them because they were just guessing.
Curious to see what a cheap flush with diesel would have done? Not saying the BG products aren't good as I have used them for years. I have to believe that the rpm is need just to sling the oil after operating temps are met.
For a fraction of that $500 I would have just pulled the valve covers off and cleaned it with kerosene and a brush. Run a little trans fluid and some cheap auto parts store flush before hand for a bit to get things loose. With the valve covers off you can blow out the drainage with compressed air as well as chunks can get lodged in there.
Thats Buckeye ingenuity with the battery n jump pak lol
Very nice of Johnny to let you tie up one of his bays.
JR is the one handed repair Jedi.
When I did the chains on my g8 I did the pcv mod on the passenger side one side of my engine looked new before the other looked like 500000 miles
BG products are great. I loved doing fuel injector/throttle body cleaner.
I wonder what brand of oil was used in the past? I do know Pennzoil has Paraffin added to it. Which is a type of wax. Along with some other brands using it as well. Which is great for saying in place for such things as start up. But well known for it's side effect of sludge build up or paraffin build up. I used to use Pennzoil till I opened up one of my engines and saw first hand what sludge build was all about. I now have used Valvoline for about the past 40 years. With no signs of sludge
How come didn't go to the lake?
Was on the other side of the country, sitting on a beach 🍻
@@WatchJRGo Isn't pretty much any beach "on the other side of the country" from Kansas? :P
@@lewkforce or south, Gulf of Mexico, the often forgotten coastline.
@@Thunder_Bear_mg what about lake Erie🤔🤔🤔
@@WatchJRGo Does that mean the R8 is back and we will see something on that soon? :p
Before I change the engine oil, I always fill in 1 litre Diesel and let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes. Very cheap, it works fine.
Cleaned Sludge: marvel mystery oil for a day or two drain oil hot. Made a cleaning tod and patches to shove through drain plug and clean out crap in bottom of oil pan. Do this 2 or 3 times.
Cleaning rod*
Hi JR. Great video. You are getting me to consider a V6 Camaro one of these days.. :-) Takes me back (way back) to 1980, when my first major engine work was a timing chain on a V6 2800 Pinto. That had the nylon type gears that toasted and broke into tiny pieces. The M6 is very sad. I think it is one of the most beautiful BMWs..
Great video, very impressed with the treatment outcome! First product I’ve seen to do this well besides walnut shells.
I'm triggered that you weren't invited to the lake house trip with Tyler
He was apparently but he said he was on vacation in another post.
I found in the Alloytecs (Oz version of the 3.6lt), if i ran diesel oil every 3rd change for 5,000km, the sludge was a lot less. Also fitted an oil catch system (German brand for Diesel's, name escapes atm)
+1 basically anything with dexos2 . I use dexos2 every change and definitely keeps sludge to a minimum. Shell helix ultra ect c3 is dexos2 approved and is the best cleaning oil on the market.
Is that Tyler's new Bentley in the background on the alignment rack???? I'm only going by the front wheel and color but it kinda looks like it.
It is! 🍻
@@WatchJRGo Oh, and I'm also impressed how that kit cleaned the engine that quick. Good work and good stuff 👍
Some atf mixed with a cup of marvel mystery oil is way cheaper than dynamic oil! Or kerosene, that’s what we did At a used car lot I worked at!
Why buy more BG stuff to clean the carbon buildup? Just clean the valves with spray and a wire brush since you have the intake manifold off. Either that or rent a walnut shell blaster. Another thing, just get a tripod and you can get better shots when doing the work plus it will be easier for you.