Love how (not that I've seen) no one has mentioned that when attaching wood to concrete either make sure its treated or put a barrier between the wood and concrete. Concrete will hold moisture causing wood in contact to mold attracting termites or rot all together.
As well as the side walls which have not been sealed . I see major rot and mildew / mold n this project in the future . Unless it is in the decent . And tap cons are worth the time and money .
@@davidfernandez367 I don't know what you're talking about. He's right, that plate was supposed to be treated. You can't build a wall on a concrete slab with untreated wood against the concrete.
@@garylsimmons7255 don’t use treated wood inside your house. Instead, in this case, use corrosion treated metal or some diffusion barriers in between the wood and the concrete.
As a woman in the trades, I was an early adopter. Love it! Pro-tip: Match the load to the job. Mucho-macho it with a purple load into a thin slab and you'll learn right fast.....
Brother, you just saved me a world of headache. I have projects ahead, and was not looking forward to drilling into concrete (been there, done that, and hate it). Now I'm looking forward to tackling the projects again. Thank you!
Back in the 80's while building my first house I used a friend's borrowed Hilti gun (same idea) to fasten 2X4 plates to steel I-beams that had a 3/8" steel top flange. I could not believe that a 22 cal. cartridge could drive a nail through a 2X4 and 3/8" steel with such ease.
DUDE - coolest gadget I didn't know existed... I was sitting here dreading everything I have to get, then the drilling, the anchor size, screw size, blah blah blah - thanks! 👍🏼
Great vid, thanks. It's been said before and worth saying 100 times more, "Safety always". I worked with a bunch a guys, pro workers, who turned into 11 yr olds when we got one of these for a job. All tools should be respected but this one has the power to turn a sunny day into a bear. Thanks again.
You need some pressure treated 2x4s for the floor studs and a air gap between the 2x4s and block wall if plan on insulating. Concrete and CMU blockwalls can hold some serious moisture specially after a good rain and without the air gap you could end up with mold issues...
25 years ago there were only two models of this, a more expensive trigger activated version that wasn’t as fancy as yours there, and one you loaded up and whacked the back with a hammer. I bought the cheaper hammer activated unit, and it’s worked very well all this time. Not hard to hold it in place and hit the butt with a hammer. It has worked great to hold 2x4’s to garage concrete floors, but I’ve also used it to secure wood framing to hard cinderblock walls. Good video, thanks! 👍
I always place poly underneath the bottom plate and have it come up the sides 4 to 6". Prevents moisture damage. Also I use PT or blue studs on what touches the floor. The cost is peanuts. Its code in many Canadian towns.
Out of the 800+ comments previously made, I am sure someone has already mentioned this but, I must say, this is a device I would definitely keep locked up and the Ramset loads locked up in a separate location. We often want to get our children involved in building projects but this is a tool I would exercise extreme caution with and not let it out of my reach or site when kids are around. Safety is the highest of protocols and I can see a preteen or teenager showing off tools to their buds and next thing you know, a catastrophic event occurs. BTW, your videos are great. Easy to follow and not too technical.
If a preteen knows about this tool. They should know it's stupid to not use it for anything more than it's intended use. Yet kids can get goofy. So if I'm right the ramset has to be pressed against something befor it can be used as a safety measure. I could be wrong on that as i never used one before. Which I do know most nailguns have that as a feature. Yes tgat can be bypassed. However with anything if you use it in other ways besides it's intended use its 100% preventable by educating a preteen. My father taught me safety at the age of 9 and taught me about guns at age 11. I took everything seriously. Kids are smart. It's the ones that disregard intelligence to be "cool" that is the problem. That's willful ignorance and can't be protected from no matter if you got both in different places or locked up. If they want it they will figure out a way to do something moronic to just be "cool".
I didn't know what the ramset was, but recently saw it in action this past summer, expanded my knowledge! I swear tools are everything to get the job done.
If no one has mentioned it, you can shoot into thick steel beams also. If you do, make sure you have eye and definitely good ear protection on and start with the purple or red load. Do not double shoot into steel tho.
Great thing about it is you really don't have to spend all that extra money on a new tool you may use only once. You can rent it from Home Depot or Lowes or another hardware store. I love this. Thank you.
You are so right man, I used to use one of those tools years ago. They are super quick for anchoring framing to concrete slabs and they are not that noisy when they are fired, it's better than having a hammer drill making a hell of a racket and throwing up dust for me to breathe in, and taking ten times longer to do the job of fastening. So likewise there's no clean up with the Ramset but you do have to treat it like a firearm same precautions and only use it for the work it is intended for. Also you gotta keep the tool clean, all that burnt gunpowder down the barrel is gotta be scrubbed and cleaned out after you completed the job and finished off with a bit of oil, on a rag and just pull it through the barrel to stop rust as the spent powder is corrosive so it's a good idea to give the tool a clean and oil after every use.
Such a great tool, game changer for my business. One thing though ... you really should have plastic film between the concrete and wood. I'm guessing the concrete likely has a layer of plastic, but for the minimal cost, it's an extra layer of protection for the wood to just add the plastic film.
Used to own one of these and used it quite a bit in the 70's and 80's when I built my house and finished my basement and used it for building an outside shed. I also used it helping our local fire company build a new building. Sat in my shed for the next 30 years and I sold it at a garage sale when I moved to NC. Great tool. LOUD. I thought you needed to be licensed to use one of these but back in the day, who really gave a shit.
@@FullCircleTravis wtf? You don't need a license FFS. If you want to use one legally I'll tell you a secret way to do it. You go to a home Depot or Lowes or any other hardware store and you buy one, along with the shot and the pins
@@FullCircleTravis I'm a general contractor and I've been building & remodeling homes for over 28 years. No, OSHA does not require it, not does any code or regulation say anything, regarding anything to do with the use of any shot set fastening tool(s). An employer might make a company policy regarding who they want to allow to use a specific tool due to liability for insurance purposes. However there isn't a single restriction on who can use one. If there was, they wouldn't be sold to anyone who can buy them
This is a good use for it. My friend wrongly used it to secure plywood down that was bowing up and it didn’t go down far enough. Use it for the right reason and it’s a great tool.
Good for non load bearing but if it were anything more than additional faux walls you’d want at least a few good bolts in there to secure it. In nz we do concrete pads with timber frames close to all new builds
The little orange plastic thing provides centering, holding (as you mentioned), and it works as a shock absorber. It is the unsung hero and genius behind this tool.
The trigger-activated one is nice. If you're looking for a cheaper option, there is also a hammer-strike version which works the same way for the most part. But when you push it down to engage the spring safety, you then smack it with a carpenter's hammer to fire the blank. You won't even feel the light recoil, but it's not as consistent as the trigger version.
In the Philippines where I live everything is cement so this is a possible solution to my problems since I am very tired of constantly drilling into concrete & I am usually trying to drill into rebar as they use it to excess ! I cannot afform anymore high priced drill bits ! Thanks for the info . I will finally have some time left in the day so I can learn how to drink beer .............
It's really great for someone like me to see in the comments how the professionals do this sort of work. I really learn a lot from it so am extremely grateful to be able to read them. If it had been me, I'd have vacuumed the floor to get rid of all the dust and just used a tube of Gripfill.☺️
You really need to use pressure treated lumber for your bottom plates. Many town codes require this. Also - stagger your nails, not all in a straight line down the center to avoid splitting the 2x4 (or 2x6). Last but MOST IMPORTANT - make sure you have no electrical wire, gas lines or water lines encased within the concrete floor. Especially be careful if you have radiant flooring!
I have owned three of them and just used one a couple weeks ago. My first one was similar to what you have but it had a metal head instead of the palm pad. You loaded it the same, pushed it down hard against the surface, and then had to hit the metal with a good hammer blow. This made it even louder, and yes I recommend ear protection especially if you are indoors, and or have multiple shots, especially with the larger loads. My second one was really nice because it had the pistol grip handle, and a trigger. It also used a belt of shot rather than a single feed so you only had to add a nail until your strip ran out of cartridges, and you put in another one. The other great thing was that it had an extension pole that allowed you to use it in high places without ladders. I have even used them on a remodel to attach 2×4s to steel I beams. That's a real time saver. My current one is just a single shot with pistol grip and a trigger. No more hammering the handle.
As a professional contractor I threw these ram sets in the garbage, they only work 40% of the time and are not secure. Get a hammer drill, 3/16" drill bits, 3" common nails and some tie wire. Drill the hole through the wood into the concrete, install a doubled over piece of wire and pound in the nail. The tie wire takes up the space in the concrete to make the nail tight and can be removed easily with a nail puller. Ram sets damage and mushroom the concrete. All for the same cost.
Bibleman, you are so right on. These things are junk, may work on green concrete but on aged/cured concrete it shatters, mushrooms etc. I drill, epoxy with anchor and it will last forever. I will try your idea.
I only use it for walls that I don't need too much hold. I think I've gotten a lot better than 40% but haven't really counted. If one doesn't go in all the way it still holds the wall from shifting.
this is the perfect solution for framing out and attaching the bottom plate for a resin shed! always wanted one of these and this is the best excuse to get it. THANKS!!
I’m glad you mentioned the kickback. I tried the pistol grip type and after four shots (Number for load yellow) My hand was done for....even with padding. I was really disappointed it didn’t have a really good rubber pad to absorb the recoil.
I use Tapcons but sometimes, you don't have access for a hammer drill in which case, this would come in handy. It would be nice to have both if the job warranted.
I am building an exercise room off of the back of my garage and was trying to decide if I should drill holes and use anchors . This tool would save a lot of time and sweat . I am adding it to my Christmas wish list Hahahah
You could have mentioned that if you don't sink the nail deep enough on the first shot, you can put another shell in the gun (without a nail), place it over the half-sunk nail and drive it in further. Also, if you don't have a red or purple shell handy, you can use two weaker shots. And YES, the trigger version is way easier than the hammer version.
Handy info. I tried attaching 1” oak lumber to an old concrete floor in a hog barn with the yellow shells in a hammer strike model. Would only sink them up about halfway. At least now I won’t have to deal with tapcons.
@@carlosa9672 , He did not mention add an empty shell to do a reshoot. He’s saying add a full shell with powder in it so it can push the existing nail sticking out further in.
thanks man, trying this out today for a room in the garage. worth the money not wanting to pay thousands for some contractor. No offense to contracts just the ones in our area are jokers
Used one of these 30 years ago to build out a storage system in the basement. 30 years later, those studs and shelves still aren’t going anywhere. Wish the rest of the house were this solid.
For smaller jobs, drill a 1/4 " hole thru the wood and into the concrete. Then hold 2 16p sinkers together, and drive into drilled hole. Works. You are welcome.
You want to finish only interior walls ,leave exterior walls some type of painted masonry, or they always eventually become mildew/ mold factories , carpet is no good below grade (stairs only), and when mice get in at the rim joist, it becomes a poop-condo , doesn't matter what technique is used on wall (hanging plastic first) EVERY tear-out has at least one moldy section on ext walls , and i can smell it at the stairway
just use a hammer drill, predrill a hole and pound a cut nail or a spiral concrete nail, you also use headless plugs and screws , tapcons are the safest ,the ramset is a specific tool, a hammer drill has more uses, so for harry the homeowner the hammer drill is the better choice,
When installing studs onto concrete, do not forget to put a water barrier between the studs and any contact point with the concrete. Concrete is porous and will hold water. Wood is a siphon and will suck the water out of the concrete. Wood+water+dark= MOLD...
Also if you put the flat foam insulation instead of using 4x4 studs on your outside walls you can use 2x2 Which will give you a little bit more room and also make your rooms look and feel bigger. If you’re trying to do sound proofing it would also help using the 2x2 you can get thinner insulation besides the flat also and then you’re gonna have to use soundproofing on the outside of your walls and your rooms are going to be really really small looking you can use 2x2 anywhere along as there’s not a door or windows.
I just went to Amazon to see how much this would cost because I am putting interior walls and one wall separating rooms in a large shop building I just had built. I couldn't believe how cheap it was and I just ordered the gun, the nails, and the cartridges. Thanks for a great video :-)
Many years ago was last time I attached wood to concrete, it was drill and pound in anchor.......I like this, and I'm looking at doing some work for myself very soon, looks like I'll be buying a ramset
I finished 100's of basements. You should use CCA lumber for the bottom plate of your walls. And the top plate needs to be 2" lower than you floor joists above. If it is tight you might get cracks in your rock upstairs if the basement floor moves. Also, I use metal studs, except around doors.
@@pingpong9656 I drill a hole in the top plate and insert a nail through it into the floor joists. I do it every two feet. This is code for where I live and have been for many years.
Like others, first thing I noticed was No Pressure Treated bottom plate., code fail. Id also recommend sill seal (foam tape) between concrete and wood. Glad ur excited about the Ramset. i prefer wedge anchors, (Red Heads).
Mannnnnn!!!! Thanks for this video! I was planning on tap conning all of my studs to the concrete in the basement. Not anymore thanks to you and this video and the links! Much appreciated
If your doing this a lot the semi automatic gun is amazing. The blanks load in automatically and with mine I still have to load the nail but I think there is one where the nail loads in automatically as well
Like you I wish I had purchased one of these years ago. Hammer drills are good but this looks so much easier to use and more solid. Thanks for sharing this video with us and remember Texas is watching and learning.
It’s not more solid! The best thing to do if you are on budget is go buy an inexpensive hammer drill and use tapcons. There really is nothing with the hold straight and as easy to use
That's a pretty standard practice, especially in humid areas - it helps with rot and bugs...plus makes prefab frames be put up easier, becasue you already have a bottom plate to screw/nail to Architectural Technologist and DIYer :D
@@hillbilly24 I guess you wouldn't want to buy one of those. Here, in London, UK, we bought an 80-year old house that had a long history of non-standard work, both DiY and by professionals, including electricity. Took 5 years gutting and re-making almost everything except external and load bearing walls while living I our previous home. Worth it in the end and house is now good for at least another 30 years which will see us out and fetch a good price when the children sell it
@@cuebj well the house i built is pretty non standard as well. They dknt inspect anything out here i didnt have a licensed electrician or plumber inspect anything. I just did the best I could and they hooked it up. A lot of people out here don't even have septic tanks. They just run a pipe off down the hill. I built my house entirely of lumber i sawed on our personal sawmill from tress standing where the house would eventually set. Let it air dry for a few weeks and put it up green. Its all worked out so far.
True facts: "Concrete is pretty damn hard." Loving this. Delivered the info that I needed. Nicely done! Liked and subscribed, my man. Keep 'em coming! : )
Noob question...Re: a post tensioned slab. I’m told it’s not good to cut or drill in to it. Will this be ok? Also..always wondered if something like this will likely produce a crack since you’re not pulling concrete material out like with a drill to make room for the screw. In this case you’re just pushing the nail in to the concrete which pushes concrete to the side adding stress.. right??
A hammer drill and tap-cons are also fine. Just try not to go through the whole slab. You can tape the bit for a depth reference, but using the shot is a pretty safe bet too. Watch the power in the loads though, too much bang can also chip out a bunch of material, but they're usually pretty good with the specs on the box. I usually put about a quarter of an inch shim under the 2× on the floor say maybe for a basement, so water can drain through if it has to...
Wow ..what a tool ..its like a gun ....man you explain things in such a simple form that anyone will understand..I feel your love for this amazing invention..cheers brother
These are faster, but i have no problem putting in tapcons with my 18v hammer drill. I've done a ton of commercial, suspended ceilings, and although much quicker, you can't compare the pullout force of cement nails to tapcons, no match. As well, you need to isolate your wood from the concrete. At least a layer of tarpaper to prevent rot. An important step for DIYers.
Used a Hilti back in '96, that had literally fallen off a flatbed truck (they were hauling a**, no way to get s hold of them). It was awesome, lost it in a move a decade later, I guess it found yet another owner...
This helped a lot. I need to build a fence from my house to the detached garage, to keep my dogs from leaving the back yard. Now I can build it myself instead of paying the 1,500 I was quoted. Small fence with a gate wow. I paid 500 to get a whole side of my old house re-fenced
I don't own one, but having been through the PITA of trying to drill a hard cement floor and using tapcons, I completely agree that a ramset gun is the way to go. Some floors are so hard that normal masonry bits cannot drill into them. As the expression goes, ask me how I know :)
With a good rotory hammer, (not cordless or cheap), like a Bosch Bulldog, you can drill a 1/4" hole in 8 seconds and then hammer two 16 penny nails into the hole for a total of maybe 30 seconds. It holds better and it doesn't spawl the concrete.
Wow!! I always thought “how do you” put up walls in the basement with screws?. That 22 works great, I had no idea they had such a thing, neat. Great to know. Thank you for sharing.
I've worked a lot of stone in my life, and was always REALLY afraid of using these on ANY foundation! The reason being, this is VERY SIMILAR to how a stonemason splits stone! You set up a 'line' on the stone, you drill a small hole to sink your shims, and you drive the shims in...forcing a fracture line to start (also works well on concrete!)...so, I never had the inclination to use the same process as you use to split stone, to go driving a 'skirmish line' into my concrete foundation! I'm sure thousands will say, 'it worked great for me'...but unless you X-ray the foundation, you probably don't know what stresses you've actually put into your floor/foundation by doing this...I'll stick with a drill, a mason bit and screws...thanks.
The millions and millions (literally) of houses that have gone up using these things and not fallen apart / foundations not unzipped didn't put your mind at rest? Really? Concrete is not stone, and with these things put in 18" apart pose no risk at all to any foundation plate at all.
I agree a drill and wind ups do a much better job. Charge fired nails stop the frame from moving at the bottom but doesn't provide much tie down force. Im happy to use them framing but if doing my own house would use loxans (10mm wind up bolts).
That would be my reply as well plus I've used ramset's in the past their not reliable sometimes they blow out the concrete, turn sideways and they do not have the holding power like tapcons do. If your doing a project in the basement like adding a room try using metal studs they are available at most big box stores. They are cheaper, straighter and you can carry a heck of alot more of them compared to 2x4's.
Tapcons are easy works all the time and if you want to make a change then that's where you save the real time not to mention the huge hole in your slab after you attempt to take out that Ramsey nail
Does it cause hairline cracks in the concrete around the hole where the nail went into the concrete? Also, never place untreated (KD) wood/lumber directly against a concrete floor that has natural earth beneath the concrete slab, as in a basement or house on slab installation.
It doesn’t crack the concrete but sometimes it will hit gravel that’s in the concrete (aggregate). I’m glad you mentioned the pressure treated wood for the bottom seal!👍
It can. This is called “spalling”. You should do a nail punch test on the concrete before using the ramset to determine that it is a suitable tool for that specific application.
Make sure you use construction adhesive heavy under the floor plate, use less ammo, and it sticks better permanently. And the he concrete as it cracks is filled with glue.
This was a fun and educational video. I saw that you would have used pressure treated if you could find it but I would be curious to know what you and your viewers think of using sill pad under and up the sides of the bottom plate?
Thanks for the comment Derek. As mentioned, everything was out of stock during the time of building this. I probably would have waited, but I needed an office badly. Thay said, my basement is moisture controlled. I have a pretty expensive system, and I have had a few cardboard boxes that have been setting on this floor for years and are as dry as the day I put them there. If this was in my last house, it would have been a different story 👊
Depending on where you live, building codes may require a plastic poly moisture barrier under the bottom 2 x 4 plate/sill. Or a pressure treated 2 x 4 . The concrete can act as a moisture wick and make the wood rot over time.
If I piers it with a nail doesn’t that defeat the barrier? I would think using a combo of plastic wrapped up each side 6” to8” with self seal membrane under is a better option….
I used one of these as a hotel maintenance guy in the 70's. Had to take a safety quiz to identify the power of the shells (which color was hotter), etc. The fact that these little shells will imbed a nail an inch into concrete tells you a lot about the power of explosives.
On all of the crews I worked on, we would always give a warning by yelling "shooting" when using the ramset. There are many good reasons for this protocol, including sensitivity to PTSD in veterans, allowing other workers to protect their ears, and not startling people performing fine work (especially with paint brushes or sharp blades).
Love how (not that I've seen) no one has mentioned that when attaching wood to concrete either make sure its treated or put a barrier between the wood and concrete. Concrete will hold moisture causing wood in contact to mold attracting termites or rot all together.
Never use treated wood inside a home. The wood is pumped with pesticides, that’s why it repels bugs.
As well as the side walls which have not been sealed . I see major rot and mildew / mold n this project in the future . Unless it is in the decent . And tap cons are worth the time and money .
@@davidfernandez367 I don't know what you're talking about. He's right, that plate was supposed to be treated. You can't build a wall on a concrete slab with untreated wood against the concrete.
@@garylsimmons7255 don’t use treated wood inside your house. Instead, in this case, use corrosion treated metal or some diffusion barriers in between the wood and the concrete.
@@davidfernandez367 that’s why it’s NOT recommended to eat the pressure treated wood that you use for plate material in your basement. Smh
My dad used them 40 yrs ago...YUP there loud and they work great
I've been using 0.22 caliber powder actuated tools for over 40 years. There's something to be said for simple and powerful. They work great.
As a woman in the trades, I was an early adopter. Love it!
Pro-tip: Match the load to the job. Mucho-macho it with a purple load into a thin slab and you'll learn right fast.....
Brother, you just saved me a world of headache. I have projects ahead, and was not looking forward to drilling into concrete (been there, done that, and hate it). Now I'm looking forward to tackling the projects again. Thank you!
Awesomeness. Thanks for sharing rada!!!
Back in the 80's while building my first house I used a friend's borrowed Hilti gun (same idea) to fasten 2X4 plates to steel I-beams that had a 3/8" steel top flange. I could not believe that a 22 cal. cartridge could drive a nail through a 2X4 and 3/8" steel with such ease.
Perfect timing. Building a shed in a concrete pad and this is perfect. Thanks.
Went out an bought one, saved me time, money and aggravation. This was a great video!
I have used a ramset to anchor wood to steel beams , works good. That beats boring holes and installing bolts.
It will also mount a steel electrical box and conduit clamps to an I beam
DUDE - coolest gadget I didn't know existed... I was sitting here dreading everything I have to get, then the drilling, the anchor size, screw size, blah blah blah - thanks! 👍🏼
Glad it helped Ander 👊
This guy gave such a simple explanation and video on how to use that tools.
Great vid, thanks. It's been said before and worth saying 100 times more, "Safety always". I worked with a bunch a guys, pro workers, who turned into 11 yr olds when we got one of these for a job. All tools should be respected but this one has the power to turn a sunny day into a bear. Thanks again.
Yeah I was actually thinking how this could substitute for home defense in an emergency.
You need some pressure treated 2x4s for the floor studs and a air gap between the 2x4s and block wall if plan on insulating. Concrete and CMU blockwalls can hold some serious moisture specially after a good rain and without the air gap you could end up with mold issues...
@Larry Holiday I agree
No, a proper basement has no moisture. If you've got moisture, you need to have that looked at.
floorr plates
25 years ago there were only two models of this, a more expensive trigger activated version that wasn’t as fancy as yours there, and one you loaded up and whacked the back with a hammer. I bought the cheaper hammer activated unit, and it’s worked very well all this time. Not hard to hold it in place and hit the butt with a hammer. It has worked great to hold 2x4’s to garage concrete floors, but I’ve also used it to secure wood framing to hard cinderblock walls. Good video, thanks! 👍
I always place poly underneath the bottom plate and have it come up the sides 4 to 6". Prevents moisture damage.
Also I use PT or blue studs on what touches the floor. The cost is peanuts.
Its code in many Canadian towns.
Thanks dude ive never used those .22 things before and i was a bit nervous about it.
Life saver thanks, getting ready to cover concrete patio with wood decking and was dreading putting base down with Tapcons.
Thanks cobber, that helps me a lot, I was going to rip the concrete up, but gave that up in a hurry, your idea is better:)
Out of the 800+ comments previously made, I am sure someone has already mentioned this but, I must say, this is a device I would definitely keep locked up and the Ramset loads locked up in a separate location. We often want to get our children involved in building projects but this is a tool I would exercise extreme caution with and not let it out of my reach or site when kids are around. Safety is the highest of protocols and I can see a preteen or teenager showing off tools to their buds and next thing you know, a catastrophic event occurs. BTW, your videos are great. Easy to follow and not too technical.
🙄
If a preteen knows about this tool. They should know it's stupid to not use it for anything more than it's intended use. Yet kids can get goofy. So if I'm right the ramset has to be pressed against something befor it can be used as a safety measure. I could be wrong on that as i never used one before. Which I do know most nailguns have that as a feature. Yes tgat can be bypassed. However with anything if you use it in other ways besides it's intended use its 100% preventable by educating a preteen. My father taught me safety at the age of 9 and taught me about guns at age 11. I took everything seriously. Kids are smart. It's the ones that disregard intelligence to be "cool" that is the problem. That's willful ignorance and can't be protected from no matter if you got both in different places or locked up. If they want it they will figure out a way to do something moronic to just be "cool".
I didn't know what the ramset was, but recently saw it in action this past summer, expanded my knowledge! I swear tools are everything to get the job done.
If no one has mentioned it, you can shoot into thick steel beams also. If you do, make sure you have eye and definitely good ear protection on and start with the purple or red load. Do not double shoot into steel tho.
Yeah I work at a construction company and they use these and they work well. Thank you very much.
Great thing about it is you really don't have to spend all that extra money on a new tool you may use only once. You can rent it from Home Depot or Lowes or another hardware store. I love this. Thank you.
Thanks for posting about being able to rent these, that's what I was just trying to figure out!
They are pretty inexpensive. And... you can fire them off on new years eve... if you are into that sort of thing. :)
You are so right man, I used to use one of those tools years ago. They are super quick for anchoring framing to concrete slabs and they are not that noisy when they are fired, it's better than having a hammer drill making a hell of a racket and throwing up dust for me to breathe in, and taking ten times longer to do the job of fastening. So likewise there's no clean up with the Ramset but you do have to treat it like a firearm same precautions and only use it for the work it is intended for. Also you gotta keep the tool clean, all that burnt gunpowder down the barrel is gotta be scrubbed and cleaned out after you completed the job and finished off with a bit of oil, on a rag and just pull it through the barrel to stop rust as the spent powder is corrosive so it's a good idea to give the tool a clean and oil after every use.
Such a great tool, game changer for my business. One thing though ... you really should have plastic film between the concrete and wood. I'm guessing the concrete likely has a layer of plastic, but for the minimal cost, it's an extra layer of protection for the wood to just add the plastic film.
I used the Ramset to do my whole basement,a life saver.
Used to own one of these and used it quite a bit in the 70's and 80's when I built my house and finished my basement and used it for building an outside shed. I also used it helping our local fire company build a new building. Sat in my shed for the next 30 years and I sold it at a garage sale when I moved to NC. Great tool. LOUD. I thought you needed to be licensed to use one of these but back in the day, who really gave a shit.
You do an online coarse and print the ticket.
Can you shoot burglars with it?
@@FullCircleTravis wtf? You don't need a license FFS. If you want to use one legally I'll tell you a secret way to do it. You go to a home Depot or Lowes or any other hardware store and you buy one, along with the shot and the pins
@@hammernnails7314
You do if you use it at work. Call up OHS and ask if training is necessary.
@@FullCircleTravis I'm a general contractor and I've been building & remodeling homes for over 28 years. No, OSHA does not require it, not does any code or regulation say anything, regarding anything to do with the use of any shot set fastening tool(s). An employer might make a company policy regarding who they want to allow to use a specific tool due to liability for insurance purposes. However there isn't a single restriction on who can use one. If there was, they wouldn't be sold to anyone who can buy them
This is a good use for it. My friend wrongly used it to secure plywood down that was bowing up and it didn’t go down far enough. Use it for the right reason and it’s a great tool.
Good for non load bearing but if it were anything more than additional faux walls you’d want at least a few good bolts in there to secure it. In nz we do concrete pads with timber frames close to all new builds
The little orange plastic thing provides centering, holding (as you mentioned), and it works as a shock absorber. It is the unsung hero and genius behind this tool.
Used these to fix 2x4 onto poured concrete well pit. Fantastic!
I bought a simpler one in the 1990s. Loaded the same way but used a hammer to fire it. I like the newer spring loaded one, I must say.
The trigger-activated one is nice. If you're looking for a cheaper option, there is also a hammer-strike version which works the same way for the most part. But when you push it down to engage the spring safety, you then smack it with a carpenter's hammer to fire the blank. You won't even feel the light recoil, but it's not as consistent as the trigger version.
I have that old type, not a big fan. Plus my old concrete (built in 1978) is all brittle and tended to crater.
In the Philippines where I live everything is cement so this is a possible solution to my problems since I am very tired of constantly drilling into concrete & I am usually trying to drill into rebar as they use it to excess ! I cannot afform anymore high priced drill bits ! Thanks for the info . I will finally have some time left in the day so I can learn how to drink beer .............
Hahaha, awesome!
It's really great for someone like me to see in the comments how the professionals do this sort of work. I really learn a lot from it so am extremely grateful to be able to read them. If it had been me, I'd have vacuumed the floor to get rid of all the dust and just used a tube of Gripfill.☺️
I am hardware store supervisor and I recommend this to a lot of diy’ers
Best to seal block to reduce moisture that may transition to drywall. Also, suggested to use treated lumber for the base of walls.
You really need to use pressure treated lumber for your bottom plates. Many town codes require this. Also - stagger your nails, not all in a straight line down the center to avoid splitting the 2x4 (or 2x6). Last but MOST IMPORTANT - make sure you have no electrical wire, gas lines or water lines encased within the concrete floor. Especially be careful if you have radiant flooring!
If you're in any type of building with a post tension slab, drilling into the cables can be deadly!
I have owned three of them and just used one a couple weeks ago.
My first one was similar to what you have but it had a metal head instead of the palm pad. You loaded it the same, pushed it down hard against the surface, and then had to hit the metal with a good hammer blow. This made it even louder, and yes I recommend ear protection especially if you are indoors, and or have multiple shots, especially with the larger loads.
My second one was really nice because it had the pistol grip handle, and a trigger. It also used a belt of shot rather than a single feed so you only had to add a nail until your strip ran out of cartridges, and you put in another one. The other great thing was that it had an extension pole that allowed you to use it in high places without ladders. I have even used them on a remodel to attach 2×4s to steel I beams. That's a real time saver.
My current one is just a single shot with pistol grip and a trigger. No more hammering the handle.
love that tool! used for many years!! great vid guy!!
As a professional contractor I threw these ram sets in the garbage, they only work 40% of the time and are not secure. Get a hammer drill, 3/16" drill bits, 3" common nails and some tie wire. Drill the hole through the wood into the concrete, install a doubled over piece of wire and pound in the nail. The tie wire takes up the space in the concrete to make the nail tight and can be removed easily with a nail puller. Ram sets damage and mushroom the concrete. All for the same cost.
Very interesting, and I like your idea. Please consider making a RUclips video for us.
Bibleman, you are so right on. These things are junk, may work on green concrete but on aged/cured concrete it shatters, mushrooms etc. I drill, epoxy with anchor and it will last forever. I will try your idea.
thank you for saving me money.
Agreed. 1 out of 3 bounced off the concrete
I only use it for walls that I don't need too much hold. I think I've gotten a lot better than 40% but haven't really counted. If one doesn't go in all the way it still holds the wall from shifting.
this is the perfect solution for framing out and attaching the bottom plate for a resin shed! always wanted one of these and this is the best excuse to get it. THANKS!!
I’m glad you mentioned the kickback. I tried the pistol grip type and after four shots (Number for load yellow) My hand was done for....even with padding. I was really disappointed it didn’t have a really good rubber pad to absorb the recoil.
Yeah bro, I found a way to hold it with the two palms like mention the vid and it has really helped
I got the Hammering one- 14 bucks 15 years ago.
that was cheap and it worked- It also was loud as hell. I loved using it.
Nice little boom stick!!! The right tool for the job always makes it alot easier and quicker. You could say you started the studio off with a bang!
Haha, great (pun intended) Don!!
Boom stick...that’s Florida terminology...
I use Tapcons but sometimes, you don't have access for a hammer drill in which case, this would come in handy. It would be nice to have both if the job warranted.
I am building an exercise room off of the back of my garage and was trying to decide if I should drill holes and use anchors . This tool would save a lot of time and sweat . I am adding it to my Christmas wish list Hahahah
Great video on how to use the ram set .I had no idea how they worked but now i going to get one. Thanks .
You could have mentioned that if you don't sink the nail deep enough on the first shot, you can put another shell in the gun (without a nail), place it over the half-sunk nail and drive it in further. Also, if you don't have a red or purple shell handy, you can use two weaker shots. And YES, the trigger version is way easier than the hammer version.
Maybe he didn't know you could add the empty shell to do a re-shoot. But it's a good idea if it works.
Handy info. I tried attaching 1” oak lumber to an old concrete floor in a hog barn with the yellow shells in a hammer strike model. Would only sink them up about halfway. At least now I won’t have to deal with tapcons.
Thanks for the tip. I wish I'd known that when I first used mine instead of running out and buying more powerful loads. Thumbs up.
A whole inch of bite? Tapcons arent that much slower if you already have the tools and hold way better
@@carlosa9672 , He did not mention add an empty shell to do a reshoot. He’s saying add a full shell with powder in it so it can push the existing nail sticking out further in.
thanks man, trying this out today for a room in the garage. worth the money not wanting to pay thousands for some contractor. No offense to contracts just the ones in our area are jokers
Used one of these 30 years ago to build out a storage system in the basement. 30 years later, those studs and shelves still aren’t going anywhere. Wish the rest of the house were this solid.
For smaller jobs, drill a 1/4 " hole thru the wood and into the concrete. Then hold 2 16p sinkers together, and drive into drilled hole. Works. You are welcome.
Hell yeah! Been thinking about about adding a room to my basement in my new home. You definitely helped me out with this video. Thanks man!!
Awesome!!!!
You want to finish only interior walls ,leave exterior walls some type of painted masonry, or they always eventually become mildew/ mold factories , carpet is no good below grade (stairs only), and when mice get in at the rim joist, it becomes a poop-condo , doesn't matter what technique is used on wall (hanging plastic first) EVERY tear-out has at least one moldy section on ext walls , and i can smell it at the stairway
just use a hammer drill, predrill a hole and pound a cut nail or a spiral concrete nail, you also use headless plugs and screws , tapcons are the safest ,the ramset is a specific tool, a hammer drill has more uses, so for harry the homeowner the hammer drill is the better choice,
Thank you for this! Amazing tool and saves us $$ to frame our geeenhouse on the concrete slab. Thank you!
That is amazing. I actually have a video today coming out about it 👊
When installing studs onto concrete, do not forget to put a water barrier between the studs and any contact point with the concrete. Concrete is porous and will hold water. Wood is a siphon and will suck the water out of the concrete. Wood+water+dark= MOLD...
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Been using one for years. It does wear on your hand from the recoil after awhile. But it is a great tool for securing wood to concrete!!!!
Also if you put the flat foam insulation instead of using 4x4 studs on your outside walls you can use 2x2 Which will give you a little bit more room and also make your rooms look and feel bigger. If you’re trying to do sound proofing it would also help using the 2x2 you can get thinner insulation besides the flat also and then you’re gonna have to use soundproofing on the outside of your walls and your rooms are going to be really really small looking you can use 2x2 anywhere along as there’s not a door or windows.
I borrowed one some years ago from my local lumber company. It is quick and easy.
Being able to back out a screw makes a ton of difference.
Yeah, that or some kind of sleeve type anchors is what I prefer.
I agree I think it’s a mistake to use it unless you don’t give a shit down the road plans can change an just unscrew an move
@@viperking105 If it is a wall along a concrete wall then ramset is much more ideal. Yet center walls I get it.
The new oscillating tools have blades that cut the nail at floor level super easy
@@chrisrose7508 ; The ramset nails are hardened. I would like to see that oscillating tool cut one of them. Should be interesting.
I just went to Amazon to see how much this would cost because I am putting interior walls and one wall separating rooms in a large shop building I just had built. I couldn't believe how cheap it was and I just ordered the gun, the nails, and the cartridges. Thanks for a great video :-)
Thanks you saved me a lot of time and money framing my basement bathroom walls, 5 stars ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Many years ago was last time I attached wood to concrete, it was drill and pound in anchor.......I like this, and I'm looking at doing some work for myself very soon, looks like I'll be buying a ramset
I finished 100's of basements. You should use CCA lumber for the bottom plate of your walls. And the top plate needs to be 2" lower than you floor joists above. If it is tight you might get cracks in your rock upstairs if the basement floor moves. Also, I use metal studs, except around doors.
If it is 2 inches lower - how are you going to secure your top plate?
@@pingpong9656 I drill a hole in the top plate and insert a nail through it into the floor joists. I do it every two feet.
This is code for where I live and have been for many years.
Like others, first thing I noticed was No Pressure Treated bottom plate., code fail. Id also recommend sill seal (foam tape) between concrete and wood. Glad ur excited about the Ramset. i prefer wedge anchors, (Red Heads).
Mannnnnn!!!! Thanks for this video! I was planning on tap conning all of my studs to the concrete in the basement. Not anymore thanks to you and this video and the links! Much appreciated
Awesome, let me know how it works our 86👊👊👊👊👊
@@ToolReviewZone shall do!
Ya! New to me this Ramset. It’s going to work just fine. Thanks for the demo.
I’ve never personally used one but I’ve worked for a contractor who owns one. Simple and straightforward
If your doing this a lot the semi automatic gun is amazing. The blanks load in automatically and with mine I still have to load the nail but I think there is one where the nail loads in automatically as well
Like you I wish I had purchased one of these years ago. Hammer drills are good but this looks so much easier to use and more solid. Thanks for sharing this video with us and remember Texas is watching and learning.
It’s not more solid! The best thing to do if you are on budget is go buy an inexpensive hammer drill and use tapcons. There really is nothing with the hold straight and as easy to use
Pressure treated base plate 2x4 is a universal code requirement. Great video!
In Oregon you need to use pressure treated studs anywhere it touches concrete. Check your local codes
That's a pretty standard practice, especially in humid areas - it helps with rot and bugs...plus makes prefab frames be put up easier, becasue you already have a bottom plate to screw/nail to
Architectural Technologist and DIYer :D
In mississippi there are no codes build what you want. Makes for some interesting houses.
@@hillbilly24 I guess you wouldn't want to buy one of those. Here, in London, UK, we bought an 80-year old house that had a long history of non-standard work, both DiY and by professionals, including electricity. Took 5 years gutting and re-making almost everything except external and load bearing walls while living I our previous home. Worth it in the end and house is now good for at least another 30 years which will see us out and fetch a good price when the children sell it
@@cuebj well the house i built is pretty non standard as well. They dknt inspect anything out here i didnt have a licensed electrician or plumber inspect anything. I just did the best I could and they hooked it up. A lot of people out here don't even have septic tanks. They just run a pipe off down the hill. I built my house entirely of lumber i sawed on our personal sawmill from tress standing where the house would eventually set. Let it air dry for a few weeks and put it up green. Its all worked out so far.
True facts: "Concrete is pretty damn hard." Loving this. Delivered the info that I needed. Nicely done! Liked and subscribed, my man. Keep 'em coming! : )
Noob question...Re: a post tensioned slab. I’m told it’s not good to cut or drill in to it. Will this be ok? Also..always wondered if something like this will likely produce a crack since you’re not pulling concrete material out like with a drill to make room for the screw. In this case you’re just pushing the nail in to the concrete which pushes concrete to the side adding stress.. right??
A hammer drill and tap-cons are also fine. Just try not to go through the whole slab. You can tape the bit for a depth reference, but using the shot is a pretty safe bet too.
Watch the power in the loads though, too much bang can also chip out a bunch of material, but they're usually pretty good with the specs on the box.
I usually put about a quarter of an inch shim under the 2× on the floor say maybe for a basement, so water can drain through if it has to...
...but if I do use tap-cons, I'll flood the hole, or dip the screw in some caulk
Wow ..what a tool ..its like a gun ....man you explain things in such a simple form that anyone will understand..I feel your love for this amazing invention..cheers brother
Thanks so much for the amazing comment madometal 👊👊👊
These are faster, but i have no problem putting in tapcons with my 18v hammer drill. I've done a ton of commercial, suspended ceilings, and although much quicker, you can't compare the pullout force of cement nails to tapcons, no match.
As well, you need to isolate your wood from the concrete. At least a layer of tarpaper to prevent rot. An important step for DIYers.
Love the Ramset… did the exact same thing for basement rebuild. Was quick!
Super cool. Heading up to Home Depot shortly to get a Ramset and accessories. Thanks for sharing.
Wow what a cool tool, it’s basically a weapon 😂😂
Used a Hilti back in '96, that had literally fallen off a flatbed truck (they were hauling a**, no way to get s hold of them). It was awesome, lost it in a move a decade later, I guess it found yet another owner...
This helped a lot. I need to build a fence from my house to the detached garage, to keep my dogs from leaving the back yard. Now I can build it myself instead of paying the 1,500 I was quoted. Small fence with a gate wow. I paid 500 to get a whole side of my old house re-fenced
I don't own one, but having been through the PITA of trying to drill a hard cement floor and using tapcons, I completely agree that a ramset gun is the way to go.
Some floors are so hard that normal masonry bits cannot drill into them. As the expression goes, ask me how I know :)
Helpful advice about the masonry bits, thank you. But what does BREAD have to do with anything? 😂
With a good rotory hammer, (not cordless or cheap), like a Bosch Bulldog, you can drill a 1/4" hole in 8 seconds and then hammer two 16 penny nails into the hole for a total of maybe 30 seconds. It holds better and it doesn't spawl the concrete.
Love this video thank you for making it easy to understand I have to build a shed on my concrete slab and this is going to do the trick !!!!!!
Used it to anchor a large sized (12’ x4’ countertop dimensions) kitchen island. Thing is a quick solution for lot of projects.
This is the most American tool ever! It’s just a gun! I love it haha
They have em at work i have used them hearing protection is a must and gloves its a useful tool
Wow!! I always thought “how do you” put up walls in the basement with screws?. That 22 works great, I had no idea they had such a thing, neat. Great to know. Thank you for sharing.
Just in time am a DIYer and was trying to figure out how to do that on a piece of cement I didn’t want to remove thanks Sir
Thanks for the video. This helps me to get tools together to do a loft in my shop. 👍🏼
I've worked a lot of stone in my life, and was always REALLY afraid of using these on ANY foundation! The reason being, this is VERY SIMILAR to how a stonemason splits stone! You set up a 'line' on the stone, you drill a small hole to sink your shims, and you drive the shims in...forcing a fracture line to start (also works well on concrete!)...so, I never had the inclination to use the same process as you use to split stone, to go driving a 'skirmish line' into my concrete foundation! I'm sure thousands will say, 'it worked great for me'...but unless you X-ray the foundation, you probably don't know what stresses you've actually put into your floor/foundation by doing this...I'll stick with a drill, a mason bit and screws...thanks.
The millions and millions (literally) of houses that have gone up using these things and not fallen apart / foundations not unzipped didn't put your mind at rest? Really? Concrete is not stone, and with these things put in 18" apart pose no risk at all to any foundation plate at all.
I agree a drill and wind ups do a much better job.
Charge fired nails stop the frame from moving at the bottom but doesn't provide much tie down force. Im happy to use them framing but if doing my own house would use loxans (10mm wind up bolts).
I like to use that tool on green ( fresh) cement .
Then the water can seep up in the basement 😮
Also used to fasten steel studs to concrete. Use steel or pressure treated when comming in contact with concrete.
The good thing about tap cons is that you can take them out.
That would be my reply as well plus I've used ramset's in the past their not reliable sometimes they blow out the concrete, turn sideways and they do not have the holding power like tapcons do. If your doing a project in the basement like adding a room try using metal studs they are available at most big box stores. They are cheaper, straighter and you can carry a heck of alot more of them compared to 2x4's.
Tapcons are easy works all the time and if you want to make a change then that's where you save the real time not to mention the huge hole in your slab after you attempt to take out that Ramsey nail
@@billyboyou8125 Good call, Plus metal studs don't rot, mold or attract bugs! You just need to beef up in certain areas to hang heavy stuff.
Wow reading these makes me confident as a pro i will never run out of work
Always wanted to know how wood gets fastened to concrete. Thank you very much Bill Goldberg!
Does it cause hairline cracks in the concrete around the hole where the nail went into the concrete?
Also, never place untreated (KD) wood/lumber directly against a concrete floor that has natural earth beneath the concrete slab, as in a basement or house on slab installation.
It doesn’t crack the concrete but sometimes it will hit gravel that’s in the concrete (aggregate).
I’m glad you mentioned the pressure treated wood for the bottom seal!👍
It can. This is called “spalling”. You should do a nail punch test on the concrete before using the ramset to determine that it is a suitable tool for that specific application.
I have never heard of this - and omg this is going to save me so much time - thank you!
Make sure you use construction adhesive heavy under the floor plate, use less ammo, and it sticks better permanently. And the he concrete as it cracks is filled with glue.
This was a fun and educational video. I saw that you would have used pressure treated if you could find it but I would be curious to know what you and your viewers think of using sill pad under and up the sides of the bottom plate?
Thanks for the comment Derek. As mentioned, everything was out of stock during the time of building this. I probably would have waited, but I needed an office badly. Thay said, my basement is moisture controlled. I have a pretty expensive system, and I have had a few cardboard boxes that have been setting on this floor for years and are as dry as the day I put them there. If this was in my last house, it would have been a different story 👊
Pressure treated contains chemicals
I respect you, Sir. You're worth watching!
Depending on where you live, building codes may require a plastic poly moisture barrier under the bottom 2 x 4 plate/sill. Or a pressure treated 2 x 4 . The concrete can act as a moisture wick and make the wood rot over time.
Yeah, but couldn't find anything during the time of making this video. Thay said, my basement is moisture controlled
If I piers it with a nail doesn’t that defeat the barrier? I would think using a combo of plastic wrapped up each side 6” to8” with self seal membrane under is a better option….
I used one of these as a hotel maintenance guy in the 70's. Had to take a safety quiz to identify the power of the shells (which color was hotter), etc. The fact that these little shells will imbed a nail an inch into concrete tells you a lot about the power of explosives.
When working with veterans, let them know in advance when you are going to fire it. True experience.
Had a vet co-worker, I hit the nailgun, he hit the ground.
On all of the crews I worked on, we would always give a warning by yelling "shooting" when using the ramset. There are many good reasons for this protocol, including sensitivity to PTSD in veterans, allowing other workers to protect their ears, and not startling people performing fine work (especially with paint brushes or sharp blades).
I've had one of these for years....works great.