I still have carbon rim brakes on my Bianchi road bike, but my son's Cannondale came with disc brakes, Has anyone had the idea to make a disc brake carbon clincher wheelset with a rim brake track as well for people with multiple bikes using different braking systems who may want to swap/share. Specifically, I'm thinking about a set of 650b wheels with gravel tyres that could go on either type of bike. #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN-Tech. On some Gravel bikes you can find technical features to put more tension on the chain (f.e. Shimano GRX-Groupset). I find this very helpful on bumpy trails or roads. But you don't find these technique on road bikes. Why not? We can watch pros dropping their chain quite often during races. Maybe that could be avoided by using this feature. What do you think about it? Cheers
#AskGCNTech Hi folks! How to reduce as much as possible punctures on a bikepacking trip? I read that someone use a combination of tubeless tires, sealant and a regular tube, there are others solution you can recommend?
An oldie but goodie rule of thumb on cadence on hard efforts: If your legs are hurting, use an easier gear. If your lungs are hurting, use a harder gear. If both hurt equally you in the correct gear.
I would have to agree that a behind the scenes video would not be in the spirit of the channel. However, the editing and production team are the unsung heroes of the entire GCN family of channels, and should be given the credit they deserve. A year or two ago GMBN did an office fun day video where the presenters and some of the backroom staff did a slalom race in a field. A Road equivalent with a number of the BTS crew would be awesome.
I'm a road biker, pedaling with speed, Taking on the hills and the winding trails with ease. My bike is my trusty steed, I ride it with passion and all of my heart's zealous need. I hit the road before the dawn breaks, The wind in my face, my body aches. But I push on, my determination strong, For the love of the ride, I can't go wrong. I'm a road biker, fierce and free, Riding is my life, it's where I feel alive, you see. I'll keep on pedaling, rain or shine, For the thrill of the ride, I'll always be mine.
For cadence, one of the things lightweights leave out is for heavyweight riders where guts or flexibility impact the ability to spin freely. Lower cadence can be more efficient. Personally, I'm at about 75 on my roubaix road and 68 on my shiv tri bike. But higher cadence is better for group rides with small speed adjustments in the pace line.
I think a pudding trolley T-shirt sounds like a great prize for something like Question of the week in the tech show like the GCN water bottle over in the main CGN show
I'll apply for the pudding trolley club; just planted myself on the couch thinking about what to get for desert... After surviving Ollies group ride on Zwift, I think I've earned it!
The thing people get wrong about power is this: watts are watts, but watts are not feelings, efforts at a given power will feel different every time, and that's because power is an objective effort measure, all other variables are used to explain/understand it (heart rate/gas exchange/lactate/perceived effort/muscle recruitment)
Yes, fatigue state - both long- and short-term - makes a huge difference. That's why power meters are so valuable; you can't accurately judge how hard you are working, simply by feel.
I recommend a Heavy Rider series from shoes/cleats to spoke count, rotor size, internal rim width, tire size, tire pressure, hooked or hookless rims (heavier riders may want hooked for higher pressures)
@@Shadowboost I’m sure there are plenty of 1,000+ mile a year/ occasional century ride overweight cyclists out there looking to , yes, ultimately lose the weight, but in the meantime take as much advantage of bike tech as possible just like the rest of the riders. I wonder if most overweight road cyclists may need wider shoes, larger cleat contact patch (Shimano vs look vs speedplay) stiffer soles (plastic vs carbon) wider tires, more spoke count, round vs bladed, j bend vs straight pull, saddle sizing, carbon vs aluminum vs titanium etc. without dismissing them and just defaulting to aluminum (big people like the fancy stuff too) to help them along the way in , an arguably more meaningful way, than a typical cyclist looking to spend $500 on an OSPW for riding every other weekend. What kind of bike would be the best/ strongest for given riding conditions aka Chunky boy endurance, chunky boy climbing, chunky boy aero, chunky boy gravel etc. #askgcntech
On the first point, a watt is a measurement of power per second. So it is measured over time. You can therefore very easily understand that with a higher cadence, you have more pedalstrokes in the same timespan compared to a lower cadence. The amount of power you will have to input for each paddlestroke is therefore also lower on a higher cadence. This lower power per paddlestroke eventhough the actuall watts are the same makes a higher cadence feel lighter compared to a lower cadence. And it is also why a lower cadence will have more impact on the muscles, the actuall pressure delivered by the legs has to be higher for a same wattage with a lower cadence.
I suspect the explanation to cadence, wattage and sustaining both is better described with reference to muscle fibre types (rather than keeping the conversation somewhat vague via aerobic and anaerobic terms. From what I've gathered, your high force type II fibres (i.e., anaerobic) fatigue faster than your low force all day fibres (type I). So the idea that each person has his/her own best cadence gets explained in terms of individual muscle fibre percentages. (and ys, there's the muddiness of subtype type IIb and type IIa and IIx being interconvertible via training). Additionally, the cells of low force fibres have the ability to sponge up and catabolize lactate produced and leaked out from adjacent high force muscles, which effectively means low force aerobic workouts will have a knock-on effect of increasing sustainability of high force fibres. I'm a big fan of physics (i.e., newtonian theory) and chemistry (e.g.,thermodynamic theory) and Ollie represents these well, but when it comes to physiological processes. let's not avoid cell theory.
@@jimjamthebananaman1 If your beef is with the notion that many people equate theory with "things yet proven, or things yet established, iffy," etc, then you and I are on the same wavelength. I suspect like you, I equate science theory as predictive and explanatory bedrock. My plea for explanations here to reference cell theory is just that these events (training, effort, etc) are inherently biological, and so they should include the theoretical (i.e., factual, true, valid) constructs of cell theory. It reminds me of the adage of, "to a carpenter, everything can be solved with a hammer and nail." These training/workout events require theoretical frameworks other than just physics and chemistry.
It's funny that I did a Zwift workout covering the power/cadence topic exactly when the video came out. Slightly under FTP with comfortable 90 rpm for 4 mins and then 10% over at 60 rpm for just one minute. My heart rate actually dropped a bit even though I was doing +30 watts but my legs could not have done it another minute (in the saddle, at least). I'm pretty sure the over-FTP effort would have been a lot easier a comfortable cadence - but that was the point of workout, simulating a steep climb when you're out of gears and can't pedal any faster and you need the muscle/torque to keep on moving.
Another point on cadence: the faster the cadence at a given power, the less energy required per pedal stroke. A watt is one joule of energy per second, so that’s 14,400 joules per minute. Divided by 60 pedal strokes, that’s 240 joules/stroke. Divided by 90 pedal strokes, that’s 160 joules per stroke. Taken to its logical extreme, pedaling at an infinite cadence would need zero joules per stroke…. Ooo, I think I just invented warp drive!
As Alex said, in climbing a "little ring" hill in a group, a not so "feather light" rider should start near the front, if possible. On the other hand, I've found that if the group is going up a longer "Big ring" hill at 20mph (32kph), a larger rider should use his power to start in the middle of the group and work his way closer to the front of the group, whenever gaps form, always leaving two are three riders in front of him to draft off of.
Easy to find the right balance if you've been cycling for a while. I like keeping the cadence between 80-100. A lot of people don't have the correct gearing, especially for hills. The vegan cyclist explained the oval chainrings benefits in simple terms, would be a good setup with a big 1X.
The most efficient cadence is an interesting topic and most people seem to get it wrong. Cadence should vary depending on power output. Power = torque x rpm and our legs and body function together most efficiently within a narrow torque range. So if torque remains fairly constant rpm should vary with power. The mistake most people make is to copy the pros thinking 80 - 100 rpm is best. This is true if you are putting out 300 - 400W. However at a more normal 200W for example 70 - 80 rpm will be more efficient. Dropping the power even lower to say 150W then 65 - 70 rpm is good. The optimum is about finding that sweat spot right between grinding and spinning. If you want absolute optimum it's a surprisingly accurate cadence you need to maintain for a given power output. Something hard to achieve with gears and this is where CVT comes in. Not so efficient in itself but can really optimise the body and muscle efficiently. Which is the most efficient overall is a very good question.
Power is applied force and the rate at which that force is applied. To maintain the same power at, say, double the cadence, applied force will be halved.
It's the same in running: elite marathon runners average 180 steps per minute (90RPM). The body has it's natural affinities. Elite swimmers average 75-95 strokes per minute.
At a low cadence, you can utilise the glutes more. The glutes take a long time and effort to tire. Hip extensors are the prime movers of all human forward motion. Cycling is not just pushing the pedal down with the lower leg. Most of the power comes from pulling the knee down with the hips.
Physics answer - subject to efficiencies as said on the show, Power = torque * RPM. So slow RPM will require higher torque (more muscle power) and higher RPM will require lower torque for the same power output.
Way to help get a heavier up a hill ( I'm 5'9' 155 lbs. my riding partner is 6'1" 210 lbs.) is let them set the pace, ride half way back on their side . Nothing makes you feel better than to be leading rather than staring at someone's butt on a 10% grade hill.
My rule of thumb for pacelines with stronger and weaker riders is that weaker riders should pace the climbs and stronger riders should pace the descents. The weaker riders are going to get dropped every time on climbs if they are paced by strong riders, so save those strong legs for descents where everyone can take advantage of the draft!
I'd say, It's easy: stay together as a group or agree on how to handle people getting dropped pre-ride depending on the remainder of the route. If it is a 2-hour alpine climb and the mountain goats have to wait 30 minutes for others to catch up at 2500m with no shelter, you'd better stayed with them and forget about the KOM. If you're having a longer break or reach your final destination soon after anyway, mountain goats may just rock up and buy some beers and snacks, meanwhile.
Big gear for me every time. I use a power meter for all my cycling. Low training cadence about 60 rpm. That's gives me 4 Watts/kg in HR Zone 2. When really gunning things (5 Watts/kg) I use a higher cadence, but only to mid 70's.
@@Ed.R Yes, your force capability decreases as cadence increases, but it's also true that you need less pedal force at higher cadence for the same power. Using a cadence that is too low requires excessive force and quickly fatigues muscles. Fresh legs handle low cadence much better than tired legs. Often, I've found it quite comfortable to climb a certain hill early in a ride, using my big ring - but if I ride the same hill when tired, using the same gear could be quite unpleasant. Spinning isn't something that most people are naturally good at. It requires practice to make it smooth and efficient. If one feels significant bouncing on the seat, it's not being done correctly and that hurts efficiency.
@@marianneoelund2940 Totally agree, I left another comment about most efficient cadence. The legs and body work most efficiently at quite a narrow torque range. Therefore because Power = Torque x RPM if power increases rpm must to so as to maintain a similar torque. I've been able to experiment a lot with this because my bike has a CVT with automatic shifting and a power meter. I have programmed in a cadence vs power equation. Basically a straight line going from 65rpm at 0W through 72rpm at 200W, around 80rpm at 400W and so on. What I found was that maintaining a constant torque doesn't feel very natural. Felt better if it increases slightly with power.
Hi Tech Team, from what average speed is aero more beneficial than bike weight. I am aware that total system weight should preferably be lowered, but purchasing upgrades is easier, and I feel that I need the best bike I can afford to help me ride. Currently set my big goal for this year, a 115 Km ride around part of lake Geneva who need a minimum 20km/h average. Working on a 25 Km/h to have some margin in case of adverse wind.
But I am 50, 10kg to lose, not enough legs to grind , not enough heart to spin, trying to find my happy medium and having fun even in the colder weather
Above 10mph or so (depending on the bike) aerodynamic drag overtakes rolling resistance as the primary resistive force. Improving your aerodynamics can even increase your speed compared to a reduction in weight on gradients as steep as 6%! These are very vague numbers as it’s dependant on so many variables, but to conclude: Aero can benefit you more than a reduction in weight at speeds as low as 10mph and even on climbs.
#askGCNTech Hi GCN Tech. When in the aero hoods position I always get sore triceps after a minute or so. Is this normal and just a thing I need to train? Or am I doing the position wrong? Thanks
Normal. What helps is training and lifting the handlebars up. Seems to be counterintuitive because you want to be more aero. But you can stay longer in this position and it is still super aero.
If you use a smaller frame than usual and install a longer stem, this will position you more forward on the bike and allow you to get closer to the person you are drafting. Will this improve the aerodynamic efficiency of drafting?
#AskGCNTech Happy new year GCN. My question is how will I maintain my white bartapes white stem and also a white saddle, is there a specific cleaning product i can use to it to maintain the white color?
#AskGCNTech I've been riding the same saddle for few years now (around 8000 km on the same saddle). I'm wondering how often should you change your saddle and what are some signs you might need to change it?
#AskGCNTech Hi Tech team, I recently upgraded to 12s Ultegra and found out that I have to index the gears slightly different when it is on the trainer compared to the rear wheel. Is there a way to save/recall the settings or is it easier to mechanically shim one of the cassettes to match the other?
I have the same issue with 105 and my trainer both the same cassette Genuine shimano part. after doing some research its totally normal but as you say a bit annoying but i find its only maybe a quarter or half turn in the rear mech barrel adjuster and so not really that much hassle
@@yonglingng5640 I just got a Zwift Hub and the Sunrace cassette it came with was about 2 mm wider than the Shimano I had on my bike. I switched it out for a matching cassette and played around with different spacer combinations and I now it lines up almost perfectly. Its a combination of the trainer, cassette and spacers (if any.) In my case I have a 10 spd cassette and need a 1.8mm and two 1 mm spacers to get it aligned.
Hi guys! What are your thoughts on waxing your carbon wheels? I'm thinking of 2 things here... 1, the wheels should stay cleaner and probably less air friction and 2, the wax should cover minor scratches, etc. What do you think?
@@Tex735 nice, I would look into the properties wax maybe having a effect on the epoxy just to be sure. Probably not with wax, but there are some materials that destroy carbon.
@@MarkBurghouwt That is true. I'm using the Silca graphene spray wax. No harsh chemicals in that stuff so I don't think it will be a problem. But it didn't turn the wheels stupid shiny. They just look brand new! I'm happy with how they turned out. The scratches still show up but you kinda have to look for them.
#AskGCNTech So why can I buy a Zwift Hub (a.k.a. Jet VOLT) with power meter and just about everything else you could want included for U$499 but it is nearly twice that for the most basic power meter only for the bike? How does the hub get power for so much less cost?
Ollie, Ollie, Ollie:. Must we remind you that the first rule of Pudding Trolley Club is, "Do not talk about Pudding Trolley Club"? The second rule is, "Always ask for seconds."
I've been using oval chain rings for a long time & they work for me Are they just a placebo ? Don't know but I like them & feel I climb better with them
#AskGCNTech! What would be a good bike for a beginner cyclist who wants to get in shape, lives in urban area with somewhat poor roads and its planning to cycle 90% on roads, 10% offroad? I've been thinking about gravel bike, but then I've found Hybrid bikes, Cross bikes, and all of them seem like they would fit the purpose, so I'm not quite sure what to get. One idea was to get gravel bike and road tyres, so it could be switched up between on and off road if need arose, but then I saw bike prices and now I'm not quite sure. Cheapest gravel bikes in my area start at about as much money as most expensive hybrid bikes cost, so would it be better to get cheaper gravel bike, or more expensive hybrid bike? Or some other option?
Hi guys, one for all the Zwifters who don't have a garage Given it is winter and riding in winter around a 9-5 is a bit of a dark affair (pun intended), I'm on the turbo atm. However I haven't got a garage so am using it upstaits in my house to keep out of everyone's way. Unfortunately this means that the hum from the turbo is going into the wooden floor (through the carpet) and reverberating around most of the house, making it sound like a diesel engine. Do you have any ideas or hacks for reducing such noise so that I don't turn the house into a cruise ship every time I'm on Zwift? For a bit more context, I'm using a Vittoria home trainer tyre on a Wahoo Kickr Snap Thanks! #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Happy New Year Alex, Ollie and the gcn crew from wintery Canada! In 2016 I was lucky enough to receive a Bianchi Specialisssima, Dura Ace components 11 speed with a SRM. Question, can I change the crank arms length without affecting the SRM? Want to switch from 172.5 to 170. Thanks!!
Because the torque sensing is built into the spider, it is not sensitive to crank length. There is no adjustment or recalibration needed when changing crank arms. Power sensor pedals, on the other hand, do need to be set up for the crank length you are using, and it's really easy to forget that when moving them between bikes. But they're the most economical solution if you ride more than one bike.
Just cadence please! Hey guys, I'm getting back into cycling and looking for a bike computer that'll give me cadence (speed is fine too) . Need no other fancy bits gps and stuff. I had a Sigma BC 16.16 back in the day and tbh I'd be happy with it again, but can't find it and it seems that for me to have cadence I need to spend more than 100EUR and get 20+ features. I'd think that such a simple tech should be acquired and a very low price in this day and age.Do you guys know of any gadget or gimics that can give just cadence?
Guy’s , I’m in training for my first triathlon. I’m riding a €1K alu bike (Sensa Romagna Tiagra) and looking to upgrade. Would you keep the (heavy) frame and go Ultegra Di2 +1,5K wheelset or keep saving up and go for a completely new bike after enough saving? (Wishlist Canyon CF SLX 8) greetings, Rick (Almere, The Netherlands) #AskGCNTech!
Hi rick, a new bike would be better value in my opinion. Canyon and other brands can get the components for cheaper and put them on a new frame. Keep the Sensa as a winter bike 🚴
#AskGCNTech I'm the happy new owner of a recumbent bike with a 20 inch rear wheel. Any advice on indoor trainers that will accommodate that size? Thanks!
Surprised no one brought up power-torque curves. They're definitely a thing for engines, and I imagine different athletes have different capabilities too
Yes, definitely true! Athletes with more fast-twitch fibers will produce peak power at higher cadences. But besides the differences between athletes, there are also different cadences for peak efficiency for any individual rider, depending on how much power they are putting out at the moment. At lower power levels, you want to use a lower cadence, but when working at your higher power ranges, you are more efficient at higher cadence.
@@ChrisCapoccia they didnt dodge it. they talked about some cadencies being more biomechanically efficient due to lactate thresholds. also how some ranges are more muscular driven vs aerobic driven. we are not combustion engines. this is the closest you can come to an answer for your question.
#askgcntech Happy new year, tech crew! Question about seatpost slippage: I am finding that my seatpost loses about a cm every few rides, indoor or outdoor. My clamp is already as tight as it can go without stripping the bolt head. Are there any tips you have for stopping the downward slide, or is this simply a case of needing a new clamp?
What are they made of? I've had trouble with carbon seatposts but in any case you could try carbon paste. Its almost like a grease but with a fine abrasive in it. It gets a better grip on the seat posts (or creates more friction if you like)
In the light of training: let's say while performing a Vo2max Workout, is it relevant for training efficiency which cadence I use here? I tend to normally have a rather low cadence around 65 to 75rpm. Thank you guys!
That would be a little low for a VO2max session for most people, but it might be right for you. The only way to know, is to try a slightly higher cadence range, and see if it allows an increase in your power output.
When I was bringing up cadence and saying that cadence was important in that power meters are dumbing down cycling. You guys were telling me that the cadence was irrelevant
#AskGCNTech Hey team, I have tubeless ready tyres but am running it with an inner tube on my clincher wheelset. Is there a way I can modify the rims using rim tape to make the tyres seat?
You can only run tubeless reliably if the wheelset is tubeless-ready to begin with. Not all wheels can run a tubeless setup as the tolerances need to be tighter for a tight tire fit.
Power = Torque * RPM. This equation holds regardless. Your physiological capacity (cardiovascular, musculoskeletal) dictates how fast your cadence can be. Both have their limits.
#AskGCNTech Would the fact that I'm consistently more comfortable at a lower cadences 70-75 rpm be a sign that crank length is too long? and would dropping from 172.5 to 170 cranks bring natural cadence up?
#AskGCNTech Few month ago i bought a new carbon whellset for rim brakes. They are not random chinese whellset, some pros are using it. After many descends at mountains whellset looks like brand new. Then little rain cough me in the way to home. I notice that i completly lost brake surface on rear whell, after 5-6 little breaking near home- not in mountains! Is this normal? In old days, after race in rain peleton just trow away hundrets of whellset?? Its a lot of money...
#AskGCNTech! Yo yo yo!! Cool tech people!!! I was wondering why some cool cats 🐱🚀 (riding pals I met in some events here in Italy) have their cycling computer/GPS unit front mount tilted towards their front wheel... 🤔 It looks awful (like a Garmin erectile dys***) and it seems to be sort of a trend among the "eat pasta, ride fasta" guys... 🍝🇮🇹
New crankset up front, along with front derailleur and new left side STI lever. Likely a wider range rear derailleur and/or smaller rear cassette to assure you have the chain wrap capacity to handle everything. Likely new chain if your new biggest chainring outpaces any shrink of your rear cassette (might be able to splice in a few spare links with a quicklink if you saved them after chain sizing). On a rigid MTB I converted I was lucky enough that the 1x11 rear derailleur had 10t to spare in capacity and I was able to keep the cassette and derailleur, but it still cost the new crankset, shifter, and a new chain. 24/34t up front with 11-42t was a huge improvement for a bikepacking rig that also served as a commuter where I frequently was frustrated at both ends of the gearing with the stock 30t 1x system.
One does not simply acquire a pudding trolley. Its black wheels are guarded by more than just internet trolls. There is evil there that does not sleep, and the Great Pudding is ever watchful.
I think it's because evolution has finely tuned us to perceive the relationship between the amount of effort we're putting into something vs. the results we're obtaining. And while the rational mind realizes "results" of a hard climb may be future fitness or satisfaction, the basic survival instinct is always evaluating payoff in the moment - e.g. watt-hours per mile.
when climbing or riding in headwind you are at constant power(no coasting or soft pedalling), you tend to coast or ease up on the downhill or flat roads. should be the same if you maintain the same power regardless of if the road is flat or going up or down .
I think it's mostly in the mind and also chose of gear. I have a bike that has a CVT and automatic shifting meaning it can keep me at a fixed cadence over a large speed range. As long cadence remains the same the effect on the body of a given power output is obvious to same. The difference in perceived effort comes down to only my surrounding and the speed I felt happy going at. For example I am happier putting out more power on a hill to keep my speed up. Whereas on a slight downhill gradient doing a decent speed I'm much more reluctant to put out more power if I can get away with not doing so and still keep up a decent pace.
As long as you are using gear changes to keep cadence as steady as possible, the same power should feel the same, regardless of wind or grade. But if you're riding along while the air is calm, and a headwind suddenly comes up for example, you will slow down if maintaining constant power. If you don't shift down when this happens, it could feel harder. Also, the same power will feel very different as you fatigue, or after you take a recovery break or fuel up.
200 watts on the flats and 200 watts on a climb feel different because on climbs, gravity pulls away your momentum. You also use higher cadence on a lower speed on that 200 watt climb vs lower cadence with a higher speed on flats.
This is why fixed gear is such a valuable training aid! Train both ends of the rpm spectrum, and you'll be better equipped for riding a geared bike. Judging power output is tricky on fixed gear and there is no granny gear to bail you out if you misjudge!
I live in a hilly area and our local climbs range from 9% to 17%. I am not going to spend extra money on a fixed gear bike, i can simulate that on a geared bike just by not shifting.
I find I can over-rev on my fixed gear, no freehub bike. Not remembering to gradually slow the cadence (attempting to coast) after a high rev effort has produced some 'interesting' results...
@@sepg5084 How right you are! It's flat where I live and I have another sprocket on the other side of the hub for long headwind stretches. 10% hills are beyond my ability on a 74" gear. Fixed gear lasts much longer and the chains are cheap. Bike is lighter and more aero too.
I ride a singlespeed in rolling terrain. It’s a proper workout over my full range of rpm. But getting caught in a surprise headwind can be really tiring - not to mention painfully slow! I do have a geared bike too, but find myself taking out the singlespeed more often. It’s nice to just pedal without having to think about whether I’m in the best gear or not!
#AskGCNTech! How come we use CO2 as an inflating medium when its a known contributor to climate change. Why not use nitrogen or some other gas instead?
As sensitive as GCN is about any music comments (all pushed to the bottom of the comment section) there's probably a woman involved with the music idea and they dare not hurt her feelings.
Let us know your tech queries below using #AskGCNTech! 💬👇
I still have carbon rim brakes on my Bianchi road bike, but my son's Cannondale came with disc brakes, Has anyone had the idea to make a disc brake carbon clincher wheelset with a rim brake track as well for people with multiple bikes using different braking systems who may want to swap/share. Specifically, I'm thinking about a set of 650b wheels with gravel tyres that could go on either type of bike. #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech
Hi GCN-Tech. On some Gravel bikes you can find technical features to put more tension on the chain (f.e. Shimano GRX-Groupset). I find this very helpful on bumpy trails or roads. But you don't find these technique on road bikes. Why not? We can watch pros dropping their chain quite often during races. Maybe that could be avoided by using this feature. What do you think about it? Cheers
#AskGCNTech. Hello GCN tech team. For bikepacking what would be the best arrangement of bags as far as aerodynamic is concerned?
Twice the length of half a piece of string 🤔
#AskGCNTech Hi folks! How to reduce as much as possible punctures on a bikepacking trip? I read that someone use a combination of tubeless tires, sealant and a regular tube, there are others solution you can recommend?
An oldie but goodie rule of thumb on cadence on hard efforts: If your legs are hurting, use an easier gear. If your lungs are hurting, use a harder gear. If both hurt equally you in the correct gear.
Spot on
Your explanation is better than the shows presenters
This is Gold, LOL. We're such a masochist aren't we?
On point.
@@zedtony8110 They still better than you
@@rizzlerforthergyatt BUhhhhhh. Cant take a joke?
Love the cadence/power discussion! I have always found 75-85 comfortable and only push my cadence up when the conditions call for it
I would have to agree that a behind the scenes video would not be in the spirit of the channel. However, the editing and production team are the unsung heroes of the entire GCN family of channels, and should be given the credit they deserve. A year or two ago GMBN did an office fun day video where the presenters and some of the backroom staff did a slalom race in a field. A Road equivalent with a number of the BTS crew would be awesome.
I'm a road biker, pedaling with speed,
Taking on the hills and the winding trails with ease.
My bike is my trusty steed,
I ride it with passion and all of my heart's zealous need.
I hit the road before the dawn breaks,
The wind in my face, my body aches.
But I push on, my determination strong,
For the love of the ride, I can't go wrong.
I'm a road biker, fierce and free,
Riding is my life, it's where I feel alive, you see.
I'll keep on pedaling, rain or shine,
For the thrill of the ride, I'll always be mine.
For cadence, one of the things lightweights leave out is for heavyweight riders where guts or flexibility impact the ability to spin freely. Lower cadence can be more efficient. Personally, I'm at about 75 on my roubaix road and 68 on my shiv tri bike. But higher cadence is better for group rides with small speed adjustments in the pace line.
I think a pudding trolley T-shirt sounds like a great prize for something like Question of the week in the tech show like the GCN water bottle over in the main CGN show
I'll apply for the pudding trolley club; just planted myself on the couch thinking about what to get for desert... After surviving Ollies group ride on Zwift, I think I've earned it!
The thing people get wrong about power is this: watts are watts, but watts are not feelings, efforts at a given power will feel different every time, and that's because power is an objective effort measure, all other variables are used to explain/understand it (heart rate/gas exchange/lactate/perceived effort/muscle recruitment)
Yes, fatigue state - both long- and short-term - makes a huge difference. That's why power meters are so valuable; you can't accurately judge how hard you are working, simply by feel.
I recommend a Heavy Rider series from shoes/cleats to spoke count, rotor size, internal rim width, tire size, tire pressure, hooked or hookless rims (heavier riders may want hooked for higher pressures)
I recommend E-bikes for climbs.
I used the same bike, shoes, etc from 250 pounds to 140 pounds. Just don't abuse your equipment. Pretty easy on the road
@@Shadowboost I’m sure there are plenty of 1,000+ mile a year/ occasional century ride overweight cyclists out there looking to , yes, ultimately lose the weight, but in the meantime take as much advantage of bike tech as possible just like the rest of the riders. I wonder if most overweight road cyclists may need wider shoes, larger cleat contact patch (Shimano vs look vs speedplay) stiffer soles (plastic vs carbon) wider tires, more spoke count, round vs bladed, j bend vs straight pull, saddle sizing, carbon vs aluminum vs titanium etc. without dismissing them and just defaulting to aluminum (big people like the fancy stuff too) to help them along the way in , an arguably more meaningful way, than a typical cyclist looking to spend $500 on an OSPW for riding every other weekend. What kind of bike would be the best/ strongest for given riding conditions aka Chunky boy endurance, chunky boy climbing, chunky boy aero, chunky boy gravel etc. #askgcntech
On the first point, a watt is a measurement of power per second. So it is measured over time. You can therefore very easily understand that with a higher cadence, you have more pedalstrokes in the same timespan compared to a lower cadence. The amount of power you will have to input for each paddlestroke is therefore also lower on a higher cadence.
This lower power per paddlestroke eventhough the actuall watts are the same makes a higher cadence feel lighter compared to a lower cadence. And it is also why a lower cadence will have more impact on the muscles, the actuall pressure delivered by the legs has to be higher for a same wattage with a lower cadence.
I would proudly be a card carrying member of the Paton Pudding Trolley Club. Club motto: Slow but Sweet.
I suspect the explanation to cadence, wattage and sustaining both is better described with reference to muscle fibre types (rather than keeping the conversation somewhat vague via aerobic and anaerobic terms.
From what I've gathered, your high force type II fibres (i.e., anaerobic) fatigue faster than your low force all day fibres (type I). So the idea that each person has his/her own best cadence gets explained in terms of individual muscle fibre percentages. (and ys, there's the muddiness of subtype type IIb and type IIa and IIx being interconvertible via training). Additionally, the cells of low force fibres have the ability to sponge up and catabolize lactate produced and leaked out from adjacent high force muscles, which effectively means low force aerobic workouts will have a knock-on effect of increasing sustainability of high force fibres.
I'm a big fan of physics (i.e., newtonian theory) and chemistry (e.g.,thermodynamic theory) and Ollie represents these well, but when it comes to physiological processes. let's not avoid cell theory.
You’re right, but they’re not theories: they’re facts 😊
@@jimjamthebananaman1 If your beef is with the notion that many people equate theory with "things yet proven, or things yet established, iffy," etc, then you and I are on the same wavelength. I suspect like you, I equate science theory as predictive and explanatory bedrock.
My plea for explanations here to reference cell theory is just that these events (training, effort, etc) are inherently biological, and so they should include the theoretical (i.e., factual, true, valid) constructs of cell theory.
It reminds me of the adage of, "to a carpenter, everything can be solved with a hammer and nail." These training/workout events require theoretical frameworks other than just physics and chemistry.
It's funny that I did a Zwift workout covering the power/cadence topic exactly when the video came out. Slightly under FTP with comfortable 90 rpm for 4 mins and then 10% over at 60 rpm for just one minute. My heart rate actually dropped a bit even though I was doing +30 watts but my legs could not have done it another minute (in the saddle, at least). I'm pretty sure the over-FTP effort would have been a lot easier a comfortable cadence - but that was the point of workout, simulating a steep climb when you're out of gears and can't pedal any faster and you need the muscle/torque to keep on moving.
Another point on cadence: the faster the cadence at a given power, the less energy required per pedal stroke. A watt is one joule of energy per second, so that’s 14,400 joules per minute. Divided by 60 pedal strokes, that’s 240 joules/stroke. Divided by 90 pedal strokes, that’s 160 joules per stroke. Taken to its logical extreme, pedaling at an infinite cadence would need zero joules per stroke…. Ooo, I think I just invented warp drive!
Your musculoskeletal system would have to be out of this world to handle warp-speed cadence :).
#AskGCNTech How do presenters handle bike fitting when switching and trading bikes so frequently?
Agree with big lads at the front when the climb starts, "slide rule climbing" I call it.
As Alex said, in climbing a "little ring" hill in a group, a not so "feather light" rider should start near the front, if possible. On the other hand, I've found that if the group is going up a longer "Big ring" hill at 20mph (32kph), a larger rider should use his power to start in the middle of the group and work his way closer to the front of the group, whenever gaps form, always leaving two are three riders in front of him to draft off of.
Easy to find the right balance if you've been cycling for a while. I like keeping the cadence between 80-100. A lot of people don't have the correct gearing, especially for hills. The vegan cyclist explained the oval chainrings benefits in simple terms, would be a good setup with a big 1X.
You might as well say you use a cadence between 50-120
The most efficient cadence is an interesting topic and most people seem to get it wrong. Cadence should vary depending on power output. Power = torque x rpm and our legs and body function together most efficiently within a narrow torque range. So if torque remains fairly constant rpm should vary with power.
The mistake most people make is to copy the pros thinking 80 - 100 rpm is best. This is true if you are putting out 300 - 400W. However at a more normal 200W for example 70 - 80 rpm will be more efficient. Dropping the power even lower to say 150W then 65 - 70 rpm is good.
The optimum is about finding that sweat spot right between grinding and spinning. If you want absolute optimum it's a surprisingly accurate cadence you need to maintain for a given power output. Something hard to achieve with gears and this is where CVT comes in. Not so efficient in itself but can really optimise the body and muscle efficiently. Which is the most efficient overall is a very good question.
Power is applied force and the rate at which that force is applied.
To maintain the same power at, say, double the cadence, applied force will be halved.
What do you mean by the 'aerobic system' in the first answer? Most of cycling is aerobic, unless we're talking about efforts
It's the same in running: elite marathon runners average 180 steps per minute (90RPM). The body has it's natural affinities. Elite swimmers average 75-95 strokes per minute.
Sure you need a t-shirt with "I was dropped by Ollie". Which you could send to Geraint Thomas and Alberto Contador for starters.😀
#AskGCNTech! what is the big difference between power meters in cranks and pedals?
Or hubs? (PowerTap user here!)
At a low cadence, you can utilise the glutes more. The glutes take a long time and effort to tire.
Hip extensors are the prime movers of all human forward motion.
Cycling is not just pushing the pedal down with the lower leg. Most of the power comes from pulling the knee down with the hips.
Physics answer - subject to efficiencies as said on the show,
Power = torque * RPM. So slow RPM will require higher torque (more muscle power) and higher RPM will require lower torque for the same power output.
Way to help get a heavier up a hill ( I'm 5'9' 155 lbs. my riding partner is 6'1" 210 lbs.) is let them set the pace, ride half way back on their side . Nothing makes you feel better than to be leading rather than staring at someone's butt on a 10% grade hill.
My rule of thumb for pacelines with stronger and weaker riders is that weaker riders should pace the climbs and stronger riders should pace the descents. The weaker riders are going to get dropped every time on climbs if they are paced by strong riders, so save those strong legs for descents where everyone can take advantage of the draft!
I'd say, It's easy: stay together as a group or agree on how to handle people getting dropped pre-ride depending on the remainder of the route. If it is a 2-hour alpine climb and the mountain goats have to wait 30 minutes for others to catch up at 2500m with no shelter, you'd better stayed with them and forget about the KOM. If you're having a longer break or reach your final destination soon after anyway, mountain goats may just rock up and buy some beers and snacks, meanwhile.
Big gear for me every time. I use a power meter for all my cycling. Low training cadence about 60 rpm. That's gives me 4 Watts/kg in HR Zone 2. When really gunning things (5 Watts/kg) I use a higher cadence, but only to mid 70's.
That’s some serious power/weight. You need to share some dirty secrets with us mate.
@@barneyklingenberg4078 They just have, use a lower cadence. Spinning limits the force you can apply on the pedals and is less efficient.
@@Ed.R Yes, your force capability decreases as cadence increases, but it's also true that you need less pedal force at higher cadence for the same power. Using a cadence that is too low requires excessive force and quickly fatigues muscles. Fresh legs handle low cadence much better than tired legs. Often, I've found it quite comfortable to climb a certain hill early in a ride, using my big ring - but if I ride the same hill when tired, using the same gear could be quite unpleasant.
Spinning isn't something that most people are naturally good at. It requires practice to make it smooth and efficient. If one feels significant bouncing on the seat, it's not being done correctly and that hurts efficiency.
@@marianneoelund2940 Totally agree, I left another comment about most efficient cadence. The legs and body work most efficiently at quite a narrow torque range. Therefore because Power = Torque x RPM if power increases rpm must to so as to maintain a similar torque.
I've been able to experiment a lot with this because my bike has a CVT with automatic shifting and a power meter. I have programmed in a cadence vs power equation. Basically a straight line going from 65rpm at 0W through 72rpm at 200W, around 80rpm at 400W and so on. What I found was that maintaining a constant torque doesn't feel very natural. Felt better if it increases slightly with power.
Yep I tend to find 85 - 95rpm works for me re power output with a sustainable HR :-)
Just be glad it's only a pudding trollley and not a pudding train like in the Unseen University/ My dads Christmas dinners
Alex's laugh makes me laugh 😂
Hi Tech Team, from what average speed is aero more beneficial than bike weight. I am aware that total system weight should preferably be lowered, but purchasing upgrades is easier, and I feel that I need the best bike I can afford to help me ride.
Currently set my big goal for this year, a 115 Km ride around part of lake Geneva who need a minimum 20km/h average. Working on a 25 Km/h to have some margin in case of adverse wind.
I ride an “older” 15 or so years Trek Madone Carbon frame with Ultegra 3x8 speed I believe, rim brakes and 23mm tyres
But I am 50, 10kg to lose, not enough legs to grind , not enough heart to spin, trying to find my happy medium and having fun even in the colder weather
Above 10mph or so (depending on the bike) aerodynamic drag overtakes rolling resistance as the primary resistive force. Improving your aerodynamics can even increase your speed compared to a reduction in weight on gradients as steep as 6%!
These are very vague numbers as it’s dependant on so many variables, but to conclude: Aero can benefit you more than a reduction in weight at speeds as low as 10mph and even on climbs.
#askGCNTech Hi GCN Tech. When in the aero hoods position I always get sore triceps after a minute or so. Is this normal and just a thing I need to train? Or am I doing the position wrong?
Thanks
Normal. What helps is training and lifting the handlebars up. Seems to be counterintuitive because you want to be more aero. But you can stay longer in this position and it is still super aero.
Try strengthening your triceps by adding push-ups to your workout routine. It’ll help!
Get a bike fit if you haven't already done so. Otherwise, do cross training in the gym to strengthen your triceps and core muscles. Cheers
If you use a smaller frame than usual and install a longer stem, this will position you more forward on the bike and allow you to get closer to the person you are drafting. Will this improve the aerodynamic efficiency of drafting?
#AskGCNTech
Happy new year GCN. My question is how will I maintain my white bartapes white stem and also a white saddle, is there a specific cleaning product i can use to it to maintain the white color?
#AskGCNTech I've been riding the same saddle for few years now (around 8000 km on the same saddle). I'm wondering how often should you change your saddle and what are some signs you might need to change it?
#AskGCNTech Hi Tech team, I recently upgraded to 12s Ultegra and found out that I have to index the gears slightly different when it is on the trainer compared to the rear wheel. Is there a way to save/recall the settings or is it easier to mechanically shim one of the cassettes to match the other?
No, you'll have to index the rear derailleur slightly every time you switch between your wheel and trainer.
Is the cassette on your trainer the same as your bike?
I have the same issue with 105 and my trainer both the same cassette Genuine shimano part. after doing some research its totally normal but as you say a bit annoying but i find its only maybe a quarter or half turn in the rear mech barrel adjuster and so not really that much hassle
@@grobbosixtyone The cassette itself doesn't matter, it's the hardware that it sits on, whether it's slightly more inboard or outboard.
@@yonglingng5640 I just got a Zwift Hub and the Sunrace cassette it came with was about 2 mm wider than the Shimano I had on my bike. I switched it out for a matching cassette and played around with different spacer combinations and I now it lines up almost perfectly. Its a combination of the trainer, cassette and spacers (if any.) In my case I have a 10 spd cassette and need a 1.8mm and two 1 mm spacers to get it aligned.
Hi guys! What are your thoughts on waxing your carbon wheels? I'm thinking of 2 things here... 1, the wheels should stay cleaner and probably less air friction and 2, the wax should cover minor scratches, etc. What do you think?
The weight gain is too impactful man
@@MarkBurghouwt LOL!!! I just tried it and it worked out well. They look great!
@@Tex735 nice, I would look into the properties wax maybe having a effect on the epoxy just to be sure. Probably not with wax, but there are some materials that destroy carbon.
@@MarkBurghouwt That is true. I'm using the Silca graphene spray wax. No harsh chemicals in that stuff so I don't think it will be a problem. But it didn't turn the wheels stupid shiny. They just look brand new! I'm happy with how they turned out. The scratches still show up but you kinda have to look for them.
#askgcntech how much is the power gain with inside cable routin from the handlebars, great 1st show of 2023 🔥
#AskGCNTech So why can I buy a Zwift Hub (a.k.a. Jet VOLT) with power meter and just about everything else you could want included for U$499 but it is nearly twice that for the most basic power meter only for the bike? How does the hub get power for so much less cost?
Ollie, Ollie, Ollie:. Must we remind you that the first rule of Pudding Trolley Club is, "Do not talk about Pudding Trolley Club"?
The second rule is, "Always ask for seconds."
I've been using oval chain rings for a long time & they work for me
Are they just a placebo ? Don't know but I like them & feel I climb better with them
They are good for climbing Absolute Black has a ton of good videos about it
#AskGCNTech! What would be a good bike for a beginner cyclist who wants to get in shape, lives in urban area with somewhat poor roads and its planning to cycle 90% on roads, 10% offroad? I've been thinking about gravel bike, but then I've found Hybrid bikes, Cross bikes, and all of them seem like they would fit the purpose, so I'm not quite sure what to get. One idea was to get gravel bike and road tyres, so it could be switched up between on and off road if need arose, but then I saw bike prices and now I'm not quite sure. Cheapest gravel bikes in my area start at about as much money as most expensive hybrid bikes cost, so would it be better to get cheaper gravel bike, or more expensive hybrid bike? Or some other option?
Hi guys, one for all the Zwifters who don't have a garage
Given it is winter and riding in winter around a 9-5 is a bit of a dark affair (pun intended), I'm on the turbo atm. However I haven't got a garage so am using it upstaits in my house to keep out of everyone's way. Unfortunately this means that the hum from the turbo is going into the wooden floor (through the carpet) and reverberating around most of the house, making it sound like a diesel engine. Do you have any ideas or hacks for reducing such noise so that I don't turn the house into a cruise ship every time I'm on Zwift?
For a bit more context, I'm using a Vittoria home trainer tyre on a Wahoo Kickr Snap
Thanks! #AskGCNTech
Use a heavy rubber mat under your bike. A horse stall mat that's about an inch thick will do wonders.
#AskGCNTech Happy New Year Alex, Ollie and the gcn crew from wintery Canada! In 2016 I was lucky enough to receive a Bianchi Specialisssima, Dura Ace components 11 speed with a SRM. Question, can I change the crank arms length without affecting the SRM? Want to switch from 172.5 to 170. Thanks!!
Because the torque sensing is built into the spider, it is not sensitive to crank length. There is no adjustment or recalibration needed when changing crank arms.
Power sensor pedals, on the other hand, do need to be set up for the crank length you are using, and it's really easy to forget that when moving them between bikes. But they're the most economical solution if you ride more than one bike.
Just cadence please! Hey guys, I'm getting back into cycling and looking for a bike computer that'll give me cadence (speed is fine too) . Need no other fancy bits gps and stuff. I had a Sigma BC 16.16 back in the day and tbh I'd be happy with it again, but can't find it and it seems that for me to have cadence I need to spend more than 100EUR and get 20+ features. I'd think that such a simple tech should be acquired and a very low price in this day and age.Do you guys know of any gadget or gimics that can give just cadence?
Guy’s , I’m in training for my first triathlon. I’m riding a €1K alu bike (Sensa Romagna Tiagra) and looking to upgrade. Would you keep the (heavy) frame and go Ultegra Di2 +1,5K wheelset or keep saving up and go for a completely new bike after enough saving? (Wishlist Canyon CF SLX 8) greetings, Rick (Almere, The Netherlands) #AskGCNTech!
Hi rick, a new bike would be better value in my opinion. Canyon and other brands can get the components for cheaper and put them on a new frame. Keep the Sensa as a winter bike 🚴
What he said - my old bike is now my trainer/rain bike.
More importantly, what's your favourite puddings? Rice pudding or Christmas/Genoa cake/Fruitcake for me.
Black pudding, with bacon, hash browns, egg & beans...🤤
#AskGCNTech I'm the happy new owner of a recumbent bike with a 20 inch rear wheel. Any advice on indoor trainers that will accommodate that size? Thanks!
BikeE the late lamented recumbent manufacturer had trainers for the bikes, wife has one for her recumbent. Check EBay etc.
Best way to help a heavier/weaker rider uphill is a hand in the small of the back.
how much alcohol do pros drink on and off season? thanks
#AskGCNTech Hi GCN crew !! Happy new year !!! Can I make my home trainer (wahoo kickr) a fixie ? thanks for your answer !
Surprised no one brought up power-torque curves. They're definitely a thing for engines, and I imagine different athletes have different capabilities too
Yes, definitely true! Athletes with more fast-twitch fibers will produce peak power at higher cadences. But besides the differences between athletes, there are also different cadences for peak efficiency for any individual rider, depending on how much power they are putting out at the moment. At lower power levels, you want to use a lower cadence, but when working at your higher power ranges, you are more efficient at higher cadence.
Thats the title question
@@vittocrazi right, but they dodged the question
@@ChrisCapoccia they didnt dodge it. they talked about some cadencies being more biomechanically efficient due to lactate thresholds. also how some ranges are more muscular driven vs aerobic driven. we are not combustion engines. this is the closest you can come to an answer for your question.
#askgcntech Happy new year, tech crew! Question about seatpost slippage: I am finding that my seatpost loses about a cm every few rides, indoor or outdoor. My clamp is already as tight as it can go without stripping the bolt head. Are there any tips you have for stopping the downward slide, or is this simply a case of needing a new clamp?
What are they made of? I've had trouble with carbon seatposts but in any case you could try carbon paste. Its almost like a grease but with a fine abrasive in it. It gets a better grip on the seat posts (or creates more friction if you like)
You should try carbon gripper paste
Perfect post-holiday GCN shop edition: “Paton’s pudding trolley stopped here”. Available in shirts and hoodies.
In the light of training: let's say while performing a Vo2max Workout, is it relevant for training efficiency which cadence I use here? I tend to normally have a rather low cadence around 65 to 75rpm. Thank you guys!
That would be a little low for a VO2max session for most people, but it might be right for you. The only way to know, is to try a slightly higher cadence range, and see if it allows an increase in your power output.
When I was bringing up cadence and saying that cadence was important in that power meters are dumbing down cycling. You guys were telling me that the cadence was irrelevant
I found oval chainrings to be smoother in putting the power down off road. no difference on climbing.
#AskGCNTech When are you going to assemble that Orbea behind your back? It's a shame for such a beautiful bike to be hanged on a wall like that.🙂
#AskGCNTech
Can I use WD-40 as a chain lube? Will there be any long term damage to my chain if I use it?
Ever so slightly will be soon a drinking game :DD
Ollie: Oval chainrings?
Chris Froome:
#AskGCNTech Hey team, I have tubeless ready tyres but am running it with an inner tube on my clincher wheelset. Is there a way I can modify the rims using rim tape to make the tyres seat?
You can only run tubeless reliably if the wheelset is tubeless-ready to begin with. Not all wheels can run a tubeless setup as the tolerances need to be tighter for a tight tire fit.
Power = Torque * RPM. This equation holds regardless. Your physiological capacity (cardiovascular, musculoskeletal) dictates how fast your cadence can be. Both have their limits.
Both can be trained.
One of the 2 is easier to train on the bike though.
#AskGCNTech Would the fact that I'm consistently more comfortable at a lower cadences 70-75 rpm be a sign that crank length is too long? and would dropping from 172.5 to 170 cranks bring natural cadence up?
#AskGCNTech Few month ago i bought a new carbon whellset for rim brakes. They are not random chinese whellset, some pros are using it. After many descends at mountains whellset looks like brand new. Then little rain cough me in the way to home. I notice that i completly lost brake surface on rear whell, after 5-6 little breaking near home- not in mountains! Is this normal? In old days, after race in rain peleton just trow away hundrets of whellset?? Its a lot of money...
That is a 'feature' of carbon rim brake wheels. Get carbon specific brake pads and that will help a little bit.
@@oldanslo i have carbon brake padas... So one descend in rainy conditions with some sand from tarmac and wheels need replacement?
Not a fan of Oval chainrings either. I don't think they are better than a traditional round chainring but to each their own.
Strenght is generated by the amount of muscle fibers working
Keep the mystery of making videos. Othrwise what would you put in th blooper vids.
Pros: 90rpm at 50kph
Amateur: 90rpm at 30kph
Surely training to turn big gears faster is the goal here.
Hi Hank!!!🤣😂🤣😋😋
#AskGCNTech! Yo yo yo!! Cool tech people!!! I was wondering why some cool cats 🐱🚀 (riding pals I met in some events here in Italy) have their cycling computer/GPS unit front mount tilted towards their front wheel... 🤔 It looks awful (like a Garmin erectile dys***) and it seems to be sort of a trend among the "eat pasta, ride fasta" guys... 🍝🇮🇹
Tf
#AskGCNTech My gravel bike has a front derailer mounting plate currently running 1x how easy is it to make it a 2x system.
New crankset up front, along with front derailleur and new left side STI lever. Likely a wider range rear derailleur and/or smaller rear cassette to assure you have the chain wrap capacity to handle everything. Likely new chain if your new biggest chainring outpaces any shrink of your rear cassette (might be able to splice in a few spare links with a quicklink if you saved them after chain sizing).
On a rigid MTB I converted I was lucky enough that the 1x11 rear derailleur had 10t to spare in capacity and I was able to keep the cassette and derailleur, but it still cost the new crankset, shifter, and a new chain. 24/34t up front with 11-42t was a huge improvement for a bikepacking rig that also served as a commuter where I frequently was frustrated at both ends of the gearing with the stock 30t 1x system.
Pretty sure the GCN Tech pudding trolley needs to be a trike not push cart
I'm with Fromme and prefer oval chainrings particularly for climbing
Thanks Gurus for answering my ‘drafting heavy riders’ question. But I’m now confused: why is ‘wiggle room’ not called ‘getting dropped room’? Cheers.
You're not being dropped if you start at the front and finish at the back.
One does not simply acquire a pudding trolley. Its black wheels are guarded by more than just internet trolls. There is evil there that does not sleep, and the Great Pudding is ever watchful.
#AskGCNTech why does the same power feel different headwind, tailwind, while climbing or riding flat?
I think it's because evolution has finely tuned us to perceive the relationship between the amount of effort we're putting into something vs. the results we're obtaining. And while the rational mind realizes "results" of a hard climb may be future fitness or satisfaction, the basic survival instinct is always evaluating payoff in the moment - e.g. watt-hours per mile.
when climbing or riding in headwind you are at constant power(no coasting or soft pedalling), you tend to coast or ease up on the downhill or flat roads. should be the same if you maintain the same power regardless of if the road is flat or going up or down .
I think it's mostly in the mind and also chose of gear. I have a bike that has a CVT and automatic shifting meaning it can keep me at a fixed cadence over a large speed range. As long cadence remains the same the effect on the body of a given power output is obvious to same. The difference in perceived effort comes down to only my surrounding and the speed I felt happy going at. For example I am happier putting out more power on a hill to keep my speed up. Whereas on a slight downhill gradient doing a decent speed I'm much more reluctant to put out more power if I can get away with not doing so and still keep up a decent pace.
As long as you are using gear changes to keep cadence as steady as possible, the same power should feel the same, regardless of wind or grade.
But if you're riding along while the air is calm, and a headwind suddenly comes up for example, you will slow down if maintaining constant power. If you don't shift down when this happens, it could feel harder.
Also, the same power will feel very different as you fatigue, or after you take a recovery break or fuel up.
What kind gentlemen these two. I'm sure they both wanted to say oval rings are for idiots 🤣👍
Why do you have to make a choice between handle bars and chainring designs? At the amateur level, most tech is not gonna benefit significantly.
What are your thoughts on the BiSaddle? Have you tried them... would you? For the average, but semi-serious non pro, is it worth the cash? #AskGCNTech
200 watts on the flats and 200 watts on a climb feel different because on climbs, gravity pulls away your momentum. You also use higher cadence on a lower speed on that 200 watt climb vs lower cadence with a higher speed on flats.
This is why fixed gear is such a valuable training aid! Train both ends of the rpm spectrum, and you'll be better equipped for riding a geared bike. Judging power output is tricky on fixed gear and there is no granny gear to bail you out if you misjudge!
I live in a hilly area and our local climbs range from 9% to 17%. I am not going to spend extra money on a fixed gear bike, i can simulate that on a geared bike just by not shifting.
I find I can over-rev on my fixed gear, no freehub bike. Not remembering to gradually slow the cadence (attempting to coast) after a high rev effort has produced some 'interesting' results...
@@sepg5084 How right you are! It's flat where I live and I have another sprocket on the other side of the hub for long headwind stretches. 10% hills are beyond my ability on a 74" gear. Fixed gear lasts much longer and the chains are cheap. Bike is lighter and more aero too.
I ride a singlespeed in rolling terrain. It’s a proper workout over my full range of rpm. But getting caught in a surprise headwind can be really tiring - not to mention painfully slow! I do have a geared bike too, but find myself taking out the singlespeed more often. It’s nice to just pedal without having to think about whether I’m in the best gear or not!
i prefer 70 to 80 rpm
But but, lower RPM reduces aero drag 🤪
How to help fatboy up a hill. Ask anything indeed! 🤣👍
Heavy riders? Come on pirate’s code it is.
Anyone that falls behind get’s left behind.
Agrreeed...but the heavy rider's counter to this is..."if I pass you on a hill, is cycling really for you?"
#AskGCNTech! How come we use CO2 as an inflating medium when its a known contributor to climate change. Why not use nitrogen or some other gas instead?
#askgcn convertion shimano 3x8 to sram 2x7 1x11
its called pre-production... not preparation-before show us the offices then!
Guys - enough of the Muzak already!
The music to this vid is an obnoxious mess...
Is it really necessary to have that annoying musak in the background? Awful.
As sensitive as GCN is about any music comments (all pushed to the bottom of the comment section) there's probably a woman involved with the music idea and they dare not hurt her feelings.