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Choosing the Right Tire and Drag Racing Suspension Explained (Sorta)
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2020
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Great advice for a S197, but an S550 with it's IRS rear, wheel hop is way more prominent on a radial tire car, with Bias plies it almost all disappears. I went from a 2.3x 60 on 305/35R19 Nitto 05R's to a 1.8x with Mickey Thompson 28x11.5x17 ET street R bias plies w/ no other changes. Same launch RPM etc., etc.
Good video. Another reason for a front wheel up in the air is frame distortion from engine torque. Countered with engine plates and frame stiffeners.
Great video my man! I didnt know this.
Nice video connor,very good information
Great video well explained
Good video! I just installed the Viking adjustable rear shocks on my car trying to start getting it set up for some racing. Need to order my drag setup and debating a 17” or 15” for the rear. I’d have to do a smaller break conversion and some grinding to fit 15s but sounds like it’ll probably be worth it in the long run being a manual car, and typically cheaper tires for 15s
Youre definitely going to want to do 15" conversion
Which type do you recommend for a front-wheel-drive car on a not well prepped drag strip?
Slick with tubes
Good pep talk
Thanks Rob
That garage makes me claustrophobic just watching the vid.
But good vid. Thanks alot
Its smaller in person 🤦♂️😭🤣
I have to slightly disagree with the part about a slick being good for un prepped surfaces. I may be wrong and I only briefly had some slicks that were used and that might be part of it and they did not hook on the road at all. but w/e i still think this is a great video, though. and im about to watch the rest of it and learn some stuff. oh yeah to add to this I had some mickey thompson indy profile ss tires. bias ply. and I noticed that it would spin them and white smoke a little bit but it would move out pretty good. maybe you could say bias plys grip better as they spin, but I don't know. if i was an expert I wouldn't be watching videos on this.
Definitely not to say a slick will "hook and book" on a unpreped steet. But all will not be lost when you spin (unlike with a radial)
@@ConnorGuasti the same thing I could say about those bias ply tires I had. it was on my 72 C10 and I had a big block with 10:1 and sqaure port heads. my best time was 13.50 in el paso at 4000ft elevation. and thats where I left off. I didn't know what to do to make it hook. it was doing 2.20 60ft. I know thats slow. so now I'm here like 10 years later and I'm getting the truck ready to start racing again with a stock 350 lol. I'm taking a new approach. Im not focusing on making engine power I'm focusing on building something that is more dialed in that hooks. and thats why im watching your videos right now.
@@ConnorGuasti ok so I'm re watching this video after 2 months, and I understand what you are saying, why a drag bias ply is better for unprepped, because well what I'm getting from it is that you are more likely to over power your tires on the street. and just like you said all is not lost when that happens, making them better for unprepped surface. lol, the slipper clutch is like mechanical launch control
@@davidcraft4909 yes sir! Glad you went back for a second look!
Good information. I have a ‘14 nitrous 6r80 car, on stock springs with strange single adjustable struts and shocks. All my rear suspension is upgraded but I’m wondering if a adjustable upper control arm mount would benefit my car. I have lower control arm relocation brackets as well set on the top hole. Also running on Hoosier QTP tires. Do you think an adjustable upper mount would benefit? Or dropping my lower control arms into a lower hole would help. I have a 4C converter and getting 1.7 60’ on asphalt. Thanks 👍🏽
Lower control arm drop and hit it harder!
In my opinion u would be better off moving the lower control arm up in the front only
Clean your garage