Hey Eric, for what ever its worth, if you move your Caltrac bars into the top hole, it will prob go a little quicker with the radials. It will smash the tire harder and you will be able to throw more power/launch at it! Hope this helps and thanks for the content.
This statement I can agree with as long as you dial in the shocks with it. From my experiences Shock settings and tire pressure make more of a difference than the adjustment on the bars. At the end of the day, they all matter and need to work together.
Great to see you happy after a day at the track mate 🙂 I've noticed that some of the radial guys stretching their tyres out onto wider rims to improve the tread contact width, could be a thought to see how the Radial goes on the 10' rims and thanks for the content.
You could really benefit from a new converter. That thing is flat drug down dead after the hit for almost 2 seconds. Fall back looks excessive after the shif as well.
Man all the info u give us is always very good to know thank you for that we all learn something new every day I got some Sanderson's header's for s10 looks like a nice header bigger tube it looks like got them on eBay for $150
For Cecil's truck, that doesn't really look like wheel hop. It looks like he doesn't have enough front-end travel on his shocks. Basically, it's trying to raise the front end more, stopping and unloading the rear suspension multiple times. This was happening to me, and it looked exactly like this. I had to loosen the extension on my front shocks considerably. He could certainly benefit from some better suspension, if it's just stock. As for the S10, I noticed that your caltrac bar is in the bottom hole, which tends to hit the tires softer, which a bias ply slick likes. For a radial, they tend to want to be hit harder, which moving the caltrac bar to the top hole helps with this. You're also lifting the front just a little too much, I would try to tighten the front extension just a little. Of course, without knowing what shocks you have, you may not be able to do that. I'd stick with the radials. When you're ready to buy a new set, I'd go with a set of M/T 275/60 radial pros.
I bought a new 73 Z-28 with ALL GM PARTS 350 stock bore about 12 to 1 compression gm 140 cam gm stock 202 heads all gm valve trian, 850 Holly , B+M 400 3,000 stall 488 gears. Had a very early nitrous system, cheep 7" wide slicks slapper bars only. Yes had a traction problem, BAD. car weight was 3700 lbs. Ran a 11,70 -1172 -1173 at 126mph. Drove it on the street and still DO. 😁
Hey Eric, it might be hitting on the lip of the bed! A great tool for rolling metal is a broken baseball bat! Put between tire & metal & turn the wheel! If you turn it with the engine, make sure nobody is standing close, & let off on the brakes very slowly! Also calipers are know to grow just slightly when the get extremely hot! Also double check the hardware! Caliper bolts sometimes back out, or break if there elcheapo fasteners! On slower cars weve seen the 1 tenth differnce between slicks & radials! Probably because of the power they sap & the growing they do! I would like to see you stand on that little 355s throat! Because I believe there is a few tenths more to be had! Header collectors, 16in should be good, maybe some timing? Maybe use some more rpm? Maybe borrow a Dominator off your camaro, if there 1050cfm? Im thinking 10.50s are possible? Maybe even better? I dont know how strict your track is with rules? It would be really cool to hit it with a 150 shot
Just my opinion…that powerglide just doesn’t seem to be a solution to gaining ET’s and MPH. If you had double the horsepower and torque, at whatever rpm level, then yeah… This engine sounds like it wants some more gears to get it up and keep it up. Who am I though…just bench racing from home this Sunday.
Eric, Looking at the data, thinking you could use quite a bit lower rear gear. I think you want to hit peak HP RPM a little before the lights, for the best ET. What RPM did your engine peak HP at and how was the over rev drop? If it looses say only 15-20 HP at 500 RPM past peak, I'd gear it accordingly. I think a SB with limited torque (vs bigger CI, BB), would stand to gain quite a bit ET wise, by gearing it this way. A big CI and torque BB, not so much. My last drag car 350 SBC ran a 5.43 gear and 129-130MPH range with a 28.5 drag slick.
with the slicks need more gear and launch at peek torque need a little wheel speed of the line then it will fly man good luck that thing should go 10.40s no problem. hint hint a th400 with brake and a 5500 converter may be better .
Great video!!The in car camera is awesome.Not much knowledge on drag racing more of circle track guy but looks fun as hell👍 Only one shift I always thought there was more shifts😊
I have a low power street 88 S-10 Blazer, and a 78 Mailbu. They are are bones, run what you got situations. I have done back to back test on three types of tires. Drag slicks, M&H race masters, and drag radials. Lack of HP means I concentrate on round to round consistency. It's much cheaper and less stressful. If it wins rounds, I'm happy. My M&H Racemasters are .07 faster than slicks, my Drag radials are about .04 faster then the Racemasters. This is after I dial in what each tire combo likes. All this with open rear ends, terrible gear ratios and wrong stall converters, and low HP junk stuff. That terrible 350 you got would really shine things up, quite a bit. Watching you work this out is the most interesting part of this. I will keep watching, it you resist the bikini's. How much for a terrible 350?
Tire Weights between Radials & Slicks?....Wheel Speed, Higher 1st Gear ? ...Header extinsion add Torque ?..Must Rev Above Peak. HP ?...Cecil Truck may Weigh More but has 50 Cu in, 406 & 3 speeds , 350 trans = More Wheel Speed, Lower 1st Gear ??..
Slicks are usually lighter especially if there is no tubes. You can get away without tubes if you soap the inside of them. The difference between the 8 and 10" wheel width will be a couple pounds though.
LOL at Colorado comment. Drove my NSX up to Pueblo a few years ago (from Houston, right on the ocean). At some point I thought, man this thing is running good but is really down on power.... pulled over to check things out. Realized I was at 6500ft and an idiot. But it did open my eye a bit re: perspective. Like, my 5.4 Ford motor is not bad pulling around Texas, but would be awful in CO, esp compared to an Ecoboost. Anyhow, enjoy your videos.
Hi Eric. Thanks for posting your results. A few thoughts: you can run John Deere "thin" fluid in the trans (Hy Gard low viscosity) to loosen then converter a bit. I run the regular Hy Gard in my car which gets driven to and from the track because I needed to tighten mine up a bit. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. As others have mentioned, your pressure is too low, and you've got way too much slick for that ET. My car's 3,500lbs with a glide and 3.08 rear gears. I run high 9's at 140 on 26x8.5 Hoosier Outlaw slicks (stiff sidewall) at 16 psi, no tubes. Hits like a sledgehammer. You can see how it does in the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/j8SNo7kpcxw/видео.html I'd bet if you ran the same slicks with the low viscosity Hy Gard, you'd be even faster. My two cents anyway.
Ive always though less rotational weight is best. Slicks are definitely lighter than a drag radial. But drag radials always mph higher. Weird how that works
It sure seems lazy on the start. I honestly think the converter isn’t ideal. It’s okay to be a dick, haha. Lots of birds flying from the drivers seat when I race my friends and we’re side by side, lol.
With the glide with its tall first gear you need at least a 4.10 gear. I would try the 4.10's with the radials and 4.56's with slicks. The radials are better for top end stability. A good new slick should bite more. I wonder which set of tires is lighter?
So you guys both have nearly 700 horsepower at the flywheel And are running around 11 flat most of the time. What's your best guess is that my car makes horsepower at the flywheel. The chassis is a stock 1986 Corvette z51With the a 700 R4 that was converted to a full manual reverse shift with an unlocked 3500 10in converter. The engine is a solid roller 420 cubic inch small block 11.32 to 1 compression. Out of the box AFR 210cc rr heads, a gasket matched TPIS miniram intake, 1000cfm TB, still runs the tiny MAF, Cam specs are 248/248 with .650 on a 110lsa. It runs 1 3/4 headers into dual 3" to 2 borla xr1 mufflers. Tires were a set of 315/35/17 BFG measured height 24.5 with a ruler. Dana 44 with 3.73. My best times were 11.25, 11.27, 11.29, 11.32 on the same day 121 to 122mph. A guy chassis dynoed this combo for me and got only 355 hp and 350tq. The engine was flatlining and surging above 5500... I went through the traps at 7300. What should my et mph and hp be? I know this is a lot of questions but need some answers. Oh 1 other thing, a mail order tune from TPIS... car weighs 3350 with me in it.
Good 98-02 f-body's with 427Ls, llrc , 700 lift run 10.1's with built 4l65e, 6l80, 4.10's and 5000 stall yank ss. 7600rpm. The LS Vettes are in the 9's
M/T P315/ 55R 17 on my 4500 lb Challenger, any air pressure below 17psi causes the tire to cup in the middle and “ fold up” creating a massive loss of traction. Drag radials aren’t made to wrinkle. I do realize air pressure may very by weight. Nice info and great video.
I wouldn’t compare your truck to the other one you described. Too many variables. Gearing, average torque , average hp, drivetrain efficiency, converter stall rpm, transmission type, ect. I’ve seen plenty of cars making “less hp” in the same car beat the higher hp car running the same cars. You did mention your afr bouncing around which could have contributed as well.
@@WeingartnerRacing ever since drag radials have been a thing (close to 30 years), radials always tend to pick up a few mph vs a slick. all else being equal.
Never, ever run street tires on the strip. My friend's Hemi Challenger runs 2.2 second 60' times. My 1985 Corvette when STOCK and a whopping 230 hp ran a 1.93 second 60' times with mickey thompson tires. I had to run tread (street class bracket racing), the mickey thompsons might have tread but they were bias ply and SOFT. I could stick my fingernail into one and leave a mark they are so soft. He destroyed his tires after 8 passes, I did 100 on the mickey thompsons and they still looked new.
My thoughts also ! 1 O2 Sensor per side is a AVERAGE of 4 Cylinders, #2 could be 13.5 A/F, #4 be12.5 A/F , #6 be 14 A/F, #8 be 12 A/f, could still Average 13 A/F ?? Needs 8 O2 Sensors ? If Ports flow Different, ,, A/F ratio could be off ? Open HEADER is Different, may go Lean ?
I know you make money doing heads ,but you've got some real problems with your combo, my mate had a Ute back fj 45 landcruser with a mild chevy glide combo that run that quick, and I gotta say would have ate your truck alive over the sixty foot .
Hey Eric, for what ever its worth, if you move your Caltrac bars into the top hole, it will prob go a little quicker with the radials. It will smash the tire harder and you will be able to throw more power/launch at it! Hope this helps and thanks for the content.
This statement I can agree with as long as you dial in the shocks with it. From my experiences Shock settings and tire pressure make more of a difference than the adjustment on the bars. At the end of the day, they all matter and need to work together.
Great to see you happy after a day at the track mate 🙂 I've noticed that some of the radial guys stretching their tyres out onto wider rims to improve the tread contact width, could be a thought to see how the Radial goes on the 10' rims and thanks for the content.
Absolutely, I'd put the radials on the 10" wheel. I know guys putting 275/60 radials on 13-14" wheels.
You could really benefit from a new converter. That thing is flat drug down dead after the hit for almost 2 seconds. Fall back looks excessive after the shif as well.
I agree but it’s hard to buy another converter when I know I will be changing motors relatively soon.
Yep, converter is killing that baby
@@WeingartnerRacing Looking forward to that new motor it should be a blast to drive.
Man all the info u give us is always very good to know thank you for that we all learn something new every day I got some Sanderson's header's for s10 looks like a nice header bigger tube it looks like got them on eBay for $150
Im glade you got to spend some time out of the shop abd having some fun
For Cecil's truck, that doesn't really look like wheel hop. It looks like he doesn't have enough front-end travel on his shocks. Basically, it's trying to raise the front end more, stopping and unloading the rear suspension multiple times. This was happening to me, and it looked exactly like this. I had to loosen the extension on my front shocks considerably. He could certainly benefit from some better suspension, if it's just stock. As for the S10, I noticed that your caltrac bar is in the bottom hole, which tends to hit the tires softer, which a bias ply slick likes. For a radial, they tend to want to be hit harder, which moving the caltrac bar to the top hole helps with this. You're also lifting the front just a little too much, I would try to tighten the front extension just a little. Of course, without knowing what shocks you have, you may not be able to do that.
I'd stick with the radials. When you're ready to buy a new set, I'd go with a set of M/T 275/60 radial pros.
I bought a new 73 Z-28 with ALL GM PARTS 350 stock bore about 12 to 1 compression gm 140 cam gm stock 202 heads all gm valve trian, 850 Holly , B+M 400 3,000 stall 488 gears. Had a very early nitrous system, cheep 7" wide slicks slapper bars only. Yes had a traction problem, BAD. car weight was 3700 lbs. Ran a 11,70 -1172 -1173 at 126mph. Drove it on the street and still DO. 😁
Call ati and get a 8" tree master converter for your application and go 2 tenths faster.
Hey Eric, it might be hitting on the lip of the bed! A great tool for rolling metal is a broken baseball bat! Put between tire & metal & turn the wheel! If you turn it with the engine, make sure nobody is standing close, & let off on the brakes very slowly! Also calipers are know to grow just slightly when the get extremely hot! Also double check the hardware! Caliper bolts sometimes back out, or break if there elcheapo fasteners! On slower cars weve seen the 1 tenth differnce between slicks & radials! Probably because of the power they sap & the growing they do! I would like to see you stand on that little 355s throat! Because I believe there is a few tenths more to be had! Header collectors, 16in should be good, maybe some timing? Maybe use some more rpm? Maybe borrow a Dominator off your camaro, if there 1050cfm? Im thinking 10.50s are possible? Maybe even better? I dont know how strict your track is with rules? It would be really cool to hit it with a 150 shot
Probably something got up in there like a rock stone for an instant then got tossed out immediately.
Love this truck man! Great video and keep it up!
Just my opinion…that powerglide just doesn’t seem to be a solution to gaining ET’s and MPH. If you had double the horsepower and torque, at whatever rpm level, then yeah…
This engine sounds like it wants some more gears to get it up and keep it up.
Who am I though…just bench racing from home this Sunday.
Racing from my couch also I have to agree with you 100%. More gear or more power. A little 150 shot would do real well.
Its all in the converter..... you are never going to go fast with a generic $500 TCI converter.
@@billyj.williams2341 you will if you have power to push it seems like drivetrain is eating to much
That is interesting data I have the same size tires and I'm 129 mph at 7200 with a 4.30.
I forgot to mention this was in 1976. It was pretty fast on the streets back then. THE GOOD OLD DAYS.
That 355 makes 650HP really , wow mine is 545hp with Iron 041 head o-ring solid Rollar 👍built in 1990
Radials almost always faster. And if I heard you right you ran with 12 psi? You could try going higher than that and they will pick up more.
Possible radial is rotating slightly on rim? I noticed slicks got screws.
Also your truck would be killer in 7.00 index. Something to look into.
Eric, Looking at the data, thinking you could use quite a bit lower rear gear. I think you want to hit peak HP RPM a little before the lights, for the best ET. What RPM did your engine peak HP at and how was the over rev drop? If it looses say only 15-20 HP at 500 RPM past peak, I'd gear it accordingly. I think a SB with limited torque (vs bigger CI, BB), would stand to gain quite a bit ET wise, by gearing it this way. A big CI and torque BB, not so much.
My last drag car 350 SBC ran a 5.43 gear and 129-130MPH range with a 28.5 drag slick.
Run my 29x10 bias tires at 16#. Ran the 28x10.5 Drag Bracket Radials at 20#. Whats the convertor stall to without a chip in it?
650hp plus should be in the 9's when the suspension setup is spot on
Nitrous converter ? That thing launches like a school bus 🤣 it just lays there for the first 200 ft
with the slicks need more gear and launch at peek torque need a little wheel speed of the line then it will fly man
good luck that thing should go 10.40s no problem. hint hint a th400 with brake and a 5500 converter may be better
.
Great video!!The in car camera is awesome.Not much knowledge on drag racing more of circle track guy but looks fun as hell👍
Only one shift I always thought there was more shifts😊
I have a low power street 88 S-10 Blazer, and a 78 Mailbu. They are are bones, run what you got situations. I have done back to back test on three types of tires. Drag slicks, M&H race masters, and drag radials. Lack of HP means I concentrate on round to round consistency. It's much cheaper and less stressful. If it wins rounds, I'm happy. My M&H Racemasters are .07 faster than slicks, my Drag radials are about .04 faster then the Racemasters. This is after I dial in what each tire combo likes. All this with open rear ends, terrible gear ratios and wrong stall converters, and low HP junk stuff. That terrible 350 you got would really shine things up, quite a bit. Watching you work this out is the most interesting part of this. I will keep watching, it you resist the bikini's. How much for a terrible 350?
Tire Weights between Radials & Slicks?....Wheel Speed, Higher 1st Gear ? ...Header extinsion add Torque ?..Must Rev Above Peak. HP ?...Cecil Truck may Weigh More but has 50 Cu in, 406 & 3 speeds , 350 trans = More Wheel Speed, Lower 1st Gear ??..
Slicks are usually lighter especially if there is no tubes. You can get away without tubes if you soap the inside of them. The difference between the 8 and 10" wheel width will be a couple pounds though.
What size tires are you running up front?
A little more rolling resistance and slight tire growth changing gearing are the difference
I WANT THAT PAINT CODE FOR THAT COLOR!!!! HAHA
LOL at Colorado comment. Drove my NSX up to Pueblo a few years ago (from Houston, right on the ocean). At some point I thought, man this thing is running good but is really down on power.... pulled over to check things out. Realized I was at 6500ft and an idiot. But it did open my eye a bit re: perspective. Like, my 5.4 Ford motor is not bad pulling around Texas, but would be awful in CO, esp compared to an Ecoboost. Anyhow, enjoy your videos.
i head NSX (nc) kick in speed limit when speed arrive in some mode , was that make you feels down on power? just a gress,lol😂
oh ok that is not nc😂
The truck is consistent. Would make a good bracket racer.
Hi Eric. Thanks for posting your results. A few thoughts: you can run John Deere "thin" fluid in the trans (Hy Gard low viscosity) to loosen then converter a bit. I run the regular Hy Gard in my car which gets driven to and from the track because I needed to tighten mine up a bit. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. As others have mentioned, your pressure is too low, and you've got way too much slick for that ET. My car's 3,500lbs with a glide and 3.08 rear gears. I run high 9's at 140 on 26x8.5 Hoosier Outlaw slicks (stiff sidewall) at 16 psi, no tubes. Hits like a sledgehammer. You can see how it does in the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/j8SNo7kpcxw/видео.html I'd bet if you ran the same slicks with the low viscosity Hy Gard, you'd be even faster. My two cents anyway.
Ive always though less rotational weight is best. Slicks are definitely lighter than a drag radial. But drag radials always mph higher. Weird how that works
What if you go 600 rpm more before you shift to be at a higher point in the gear change and hit the tires harder at the launch 13psi in tires
didnt tirewall scratch been found right after the chassis dyno？sounds like something weir happen with suspension twist under the heavy launch
Have you tried Hoosiers? I noticed all street racing and track racing going to Hoosiers
I'm sure it's the caliper. Reason being is because the step on a 10in is not in same spot as step on 8in rim. Glad u saw it b4 it got worse
It sure seems lazy on the start. I honestly think the converter isn’t ideal. It’s okay to be a dick, haha. Lots of birds flying from the drivers seat when I race my friends and we’re side by side, lol.
With the glide with its tall first gear you need at least a 4.10 gear. I would try the 4.10's with the radials and 4.56's with slicks. The radials are better for top end stability. A good new slick should bite more. I wonder which set of tires is lighter?
Slicks by 2 pounds each.
typical jegs wheels had same ones did the same thing 15x10 one wheel rubbed my caliper other one didnt,other then that great wheel for the price
Tire Rub can Hurt 60' time BIGGLY & Overall !...Was there a Head WInd, did it increase ? Truck Aero is a Brick ??
Look at all the RUclips drag racing pro's in the comments 🤣🤣🤣🤣 . I don't know shit, I just drive a dragster, but great video!
Slicks growing aside, the mickeys look taller sitting there.
So you guys both have nearly 700 horsepower at the flywheel And are running around 11 flat most of the time. What's your best guess is that my car makes horsepower at the flywheel. The chassis is a stock 1986 Corvette z51With the a 700 R4 that was converted to a full manual reverse shift with an unlocked 3500 10in converter. The engine is a solid roller 420 cubic inch small block 11.32 to 1 compression. Out of the box AFR 210cc rr heads, a gasket matched TPIS miniram intake, 1000cfm TB, still runs the tiny MAF, Cam specs are 248/248 with .650 on a 110lsa. It runs 1 3/4 headers into dual 3" to 2 borla xr1 mufflers. Tires were a set of 315/35/17 BFG measured height 24.5 with a ruler. Dana 44 with 3.73. My best times were 11.25, 11.27, 11.29, 11.32 on the same day 121 to 122mph. A guy chassis dynoed this combo for me and got only 355 hp and 350tq. The engine was flatlining and surging above 5500... I went through the traps at 7300. What should my et mph and hp be? I know this is a lot of questions but need some answers. Oh 1 other thing, a mail order tune from TPIS... car weighs 3350 with me in it.
Good 98-02 f-body's with 427Ls, llrc , 700 lift run 10.1's with built 4l65e, 6l80, 4.10's and 5000 stall yank ss. 7600rpm. The LS Vettes are in the 9's
Good vid thanks I learn
Rim scrape may be from a rock that got caught against the caliper.
We have found drag radials (ET Street Pros) like ~18 psi. Bump the pressure a little and I'll bet you gain some more.
Run more psi?
M/T P315/ 55R 17 on my 4500 lb Challenger, any air pressure below 17psi causes the tire to cup in the middle and “ fold up” creating a massive loss of traction. Drag radials aren’t made to wrinkle.
I do realize air pressure may very by weight.
Nice info and great video.
Could be the way it set up
My car flip flos tq and hpnon the wrong tune 235-205 , slow one way but powerful but the other is quick and guess at first
Depends Eric- are we talking wheel speed or ETA? lol
I wouldn’t compare your truck to the other one you described. Too many variables. Gearing, average torque , average hp, drivetrain efficiency, converter stall rpm, transmission type, ect.
I’ve seen plenty of cars making “less hp” in the same car beat the higher hp car running the same cars.
You did mention your afr bouncing around which could have contributed as well.
How do you explain the MPH gain?3-4 MPH di you change your shift point?
No
@@WeingartnerRacing ever since drag radials have been a thing (close to 30 years), radials always tend to pick up a few mph vs a slick. all else being equal.
Never, ever run street tires on the strip. My friend's Hemi Challenger runs 2.2 second 60' times. My 1985 Corvette when STOCK and a whopping 230 hp ran a 1.93 second 60' times with mickey thompson tires. I had to run tread (street class bracket racing), the mickey thompsons might have tread but they were bias ply and SOFT. I could stick my fingernail into one and leave a mark they are so soft. He destroyed his tires after 8 passes, I did 100 on the mickey thompsons and they still looked new.
If the air kept getting worse but you kept getting faster, are you sure its not a touch lean? Maybe it wasnt tires at all?
My thoughts also ! 1 O2 Sensor per side is a AVERAGE of 4 Cylinders, #2 could be 13.5 A/F, #4 be12.5 A/F , #6 be 14 A/F, #8 be 12 A/f, could still Average 13 A/F ?? Needs 8 O2 Sensors ? If Ports flow Different, ,, A/F ratio could be off ? Open HEADER is Different, may go Lean ?
@@MrKawa74 I run 2 O2's, 8 egt's and still read plugs.
O2's are just one small part of the equation and not very acurate most of the time.
Who won the shirt guessing your TikTok page?
I can’t give you his name but someone did.
Can you tell me what wheels you have , thanks
Jegs pro stars
I bet at sea level that converter works better .
Methanol will loosen up that convertor
I know you make money doing heads ,but you've got some real problems with your combo, my mate had a Ute back fj 45 landcruser with a mild chevy glide combo that run that quick, and I gotta say would have ate your truck alive over the sixty foot .
Ok
@@WeingartnerRacingThat's funny stuff their.
Slicks are not legal on the street.end of story.
Racing on the streets isn’t either.
do you have to change your springs after how many runs? what kind?