Solid video, thanks! Should the output water match your U/L theromstats and if they don't does that suggest a problem with your water heater or pipe insulation? Mine currently is set at 135F and the water output is roughly 110F.
UEi DL369 Digital Clamp Meter HVAC Auto-Ranging 4000 Counts Volt Meter AC Amp Meter Measures AC Current AC/DC Voltage & Microamps Capacitance Resistance Diodes NCV Continuity Tester Live Wire Test a.co/d/iT3LhG3
Hey buddy, So I just replaced my 2014 50g electric Rheem, with the same exact updated model… the big yellow efficiency sticker says $489/year, which is almost $120 less than the same sticker on the old unit… putting the actual price paid for electricity aside, I’m assuming that estimated low number is for the factory setting right? The new one has both top and bottom set to 100 degrees, the old water heater would scald you at full hot(i just bought this house last year, former owners had it turned way up) which sucked, but I’m thinking 100 is not enough… anyways, is there any formula to calculate the increased power consumption from 100 to say 125? I live in California where power is outrageously expensive right now so every kWh I can save helps…
We always set them to about 120°. But also those stickers are wildly inaccurate. They don't know what your rates are. My rates are $0.05/kwh and yours are likely over $0.45/kwh. So there's no way those stickers could be accurate.
@@SmedleyPlumbing that was quick man thanks. Yeah the sticker estimates at $0.14/kwh, and I do realize that my actual numbers will be different than the sticker based on my rates. I guess what I’m trying to figure out is, not so much dollar amounts right now but the percentage of increase in power consumption, like changing it from 100 to 120 degrees makes it run 40% longer or 3 times as long or 10 times more often in a 24hr period… Does that make sense? I’ve never paid attention to it, but my pge bill is always high and now that the sticker made me think about it, I think a lot of it was because the old WH was turned up so high. I guess I need to get on pge website, they probably have calculators and such to plug numbers into… but thanks for your time man, really appreciate it
Great video, a big help to a dum dum like me. I knew the water in my apt was super hot, and I just found out that it was set to about 150! So i lowered it down to around 120. However, I noticed that my bottom gauge doesn't have any insulation at all. Is there somewhere I can buy replacement insulation? Could I use regular Styrofoam, or is that dangerous? Thank you for your help!
I'm also thinking perhaps something like this could work: www.homedepot.com/p/Knauf-Insulation-R-6-7-EcoRoll-Unfaced-Multi-Purpose-Insulation-Roll-2-in-x-16-in-x-48-in-660819/309951681 And I'll just adjust the insulation to fit. However, now I'm learning about and looking into R Values to make sure this would be acceptable, since it seems low.
Thank you Sir! Very helpful! God bless.
Happy to help!
Thank you for the informative video. Please keep ‘em coming
Will do!
Thank you! Was able to adjust mine without issue
Glad it helped!
So there's no power switch on the water heater? You have to turn it off at the breaker before adjusting?
Typically yes
@@SmedleyPlumbing okay! Thank you for your response and for the video.
Solid video, thanks! Should the output water match your U/L theromstats and if they don't does that suggest a problem with your water heater or pipe insulation? Mine currently is set at 135F and the water output is roughly 110F.
It's kind of relative. The settings are a close guess but they will usually be off a bit from what you get at the faucet.
If i want to set it to vacation mode, do i turn the white dial counterclockwise? Going away for a week.
Just leave it alone. Your water heater doesn't cost much at all to sit there idle.
What kind of multimeter is that brand etc?
UEi DL369 Digital Clamp Meter HVAC Auto-Ranging 4000 Counts Volt Meter AC Amp Meter Measures AC Current AC/DC Voltage & Microamps Capacitance Resistance Diodes NCV Continuity Tester Live Wire Test a.co/d/iT3LhG3
What if there is no thermostat on the upper? Only a reset button on the lower?
Same diagnostic process applies
Hey buddy, So I just replaced my 2014 50g electric Rheem, with the same exact updated model… the big yellow efficiency sticker says $489/year, which is almost $120 less than the same sticker on the old unit… putting the actual price paid for electricity aside, I’m assuming that estimated low number is for the factory setting right? The new one has both top and bottom set to 100 degrees, the old water heater would scald you at full hot(i just bought this house last year, former owners had it turned way up) which sucked, but I’m thinking 100 is not enough… anyways, is there any formula to calculate the increased power consumption from 100 to say 125? I live in California where power is outrageously expensive right now so every kWh I can save helps…
We always set them to about 120°. But also those stickers are wildly inaccurate. They don't know what your rates are. My rates are $0.05/kwh and yours are likely over $0.45/kwh. So there's no way those stickers could be accurate.
@@SmedleyPlumbing that was quick man thanks.
Yeah the sticker estimates at $0.14/kwh, and I do realize that my actual numbers will be different than the sticker based on my rates. I guess what I’m trying to figure out is, not so much dollar amounts right now but the percentage of increase in power consumption, like changing it from 100 to 120 degrees makes it run 40% longer or 3 times as long or 10 times more often in a 24hr period… Does that make sense? I’ve never paid attention to it, but my pge bill is always high and now that the sticker made me think about it, I think a lot of it was because the old WH was turned up so high. I guess I need to get on pge website, they probably have calculators and such to plug numbers into… but thanks for your time man, really appreciate it
@@SmedleyPlumbing I subbed for ya
Can you adjust the temp without turning the breaker off?
Yes you can.
Thank you. I only have 1 adjuster on my tank and it only goes down to 140 🤔
Sounds like you might have a commercial unit or a boiler
Why are some wires on top of the insultaion...do they need to be???
Some hold the insulation in place.
Great video, a big help to a dum dum like me. I knew the water in my apt was super hot, and I just found out that it was set to about 150! So i lowered it down to around 120. However, I noticed that my bottom gauge doesn't have any insulation at all. Is there somewhere I can buy replacement insulation? Could I use regular Styrofoam, or is that dangerous? Thank you for your help!
I'm also thinking perhaps something like this could work: www.homedepot.com/p/Knauf-Insulation-R-6-7-EcoRoll-Unfaced-Multi-Purpose-Insulation-Roll-2-in-x-16-in-x-48-in-660819/309951681
And I'll just adjust the insulation to fit. However, now I'm learning about and looking into R Values to make sure this would be acceptable, since it seems low.
You can just used any fiberglass insulation. Just don't pack it in there too tightly.
@@SmedleyPlumbing Thanks pal!
Wby cant i see the replys to these good questions??? Grrr
I set mine at 140 cause the we always run out of hot water and it’s a 60gal
That's manageable as long as there are no children in the home that could get burned from not knowing how to work the water taps.
sorry for your loss but no i will not be disarmed.
Huh?
Lol. Bot program error.