Make a PCB with Press & Peel blue transfer paper
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- Опубликовано: 10 апр 2012
- PCB with Press & Peel
I was making boards one day and decided to turn my camera on and whip up an impromptu video on it.
how to use press and peel blue paper 
Видеоклипы
Thanks for showing us your mistakes and how to fix them. :)
Thank you very much for your tutorial, I had time trying and I did not leave, the PCB was not transferred correctly, but it really works as explained in the video, thank you very much :-D (Y)
muchas gracias por tu tutorial, tenía rato intentando y no me salía, no se transfería correctamente el PCB, pero de verdad que funciona tal cual explicas en el video, muchas gracias :-D (Y)
Cheers Mate, really useful. Had no success following pnp package advice. Followed your advice and voila, image on copper.
Great idea!
The ideal temperature to transfer is between 275 and 325 degrees. They make magnetic thermometers that are meant for wood stoves that work really well for this application. You stick it to the bottom of the iron, turn the iron on, adjusting, until it gets to the correct temperature and then remove the magnet (carefully, it's hot). Now you can easily iron on your transfer, knowing your at the right temp.
honestly, that looks no easier than just taking a page from a glossy magazine, and using that. i would say the exact same effort. and that stuff isnt cheap.
Your scrap of board had chips around the edge that stuck up above the surface and prevented the iron from making full contact. That's why only half the image stuck to the board on the first heat.
I use and prefer thin non-glossy photopaper printed in the laser printer. It comes off very easily without any residues. Also there's no need for water. I use a standard cheap laminator without any mods. Pass the pcb trough it for about 10 times. I create lines with 0.2 mm with ease. I use a laser printer with colour setting and max. saturation in the 3 channels. This gives me more toner then just b/w.
Me too. After I ran out of my first purchase of the blue paper I started using Sweetwater catalogues and haven't gone back.
thanks for the reply. what do you mean by laminator method??? i have found i need to iron "the heck out of it", so to speak, or risk having missing specs. in fact, ive found that it helps to do two additional things: 1. poke tiny holes in the transfer outside of the traces to let hot air and moisture escape, this make removal easier. 2. preheat the copper clad first for 1 min with the iron, then lay the decal down
good thing you have this on here because I have a crap load of this blue transfer paper and its a pain in the ass to use I have found better luck with just plan paper lol but this stuff makes a better crisp ciruit.
Thanks. I think I'll try their system and laminator, but I'm a little wary since the PnP blue sheet was such a bust for me. I was thinking of getting a CNC mill and doing isolation milling, but I recently heard from a CNC expert that often produces crappy results too, and that etching usually works better! Ugh. Maybe the Datak photo method really is the best option for one-off hobby boards.
... You must have a laser printer thorough,granted ?.
What temperature do you set the iron for?
I'd never heard of PCBfx but the product they sell looks intriguing. So if I buy an H-220 laminator then my four remaining press-n-peel blue sheets won't be so worthless? Their website says I'm much better off with their thinner transfer sheets and thinner copper boards. Have you used their system, and if so, how do you like it? Or do you use that laminator with the blue sheets or just glossy photo paper?
Do you have to use a laser printer to print the circuit onto the blue paper or can i get away with using a normal inkjet?
Good video. THX...but I tried 2 times and it just did not come out good. I think my traces are way too tiny and too close together to give a good result. Probably works good with big traces and simple boards. Going to try the photosensitive dry film method next
I don't know what this is, or why I should make one, but you have a really soothing voice. I could listen to you talk all day. Have you though about doing ASMR videos?
I really think that smudge happed at the beginning where you moved the paper after laying it down on the hot board. Water shouldn’t affect the toner at all as it is essentially plastic. Thanks for the info though
Thanks for the video, but has anyone gotten good results with PnP? I tried ten times, using the method Techniks recommends (not pre-heating the board, but heating the film for anywhere from 90 seconds to four minutes). I also tried your method of pre-heating the board and then only applying the film for 30-60 seconds. It never transferred enough detail to be useable, even with my iron at highest setting (325) and trying to fill in with a sharpie. The photo-sensitized boards seem much better.
Dont forget to mention not to use a inkjet printer for the printouts on the PnP sheets, use a laser printer on the highest black and white settings or print it out on white paper on the highest black and white settings and put the PnP sheets in a photocopier and print out that way... :)
Does this work on plastic?
is this for use with laser printers or ink jet?
That looks thick enough to destroy my laser printer.
I would use ferric chloride, but didn't bother. I could tell after each ironing stage that in the best cases, only about 80% of the circuit had transferred, so there was no reason to try etching. Maybe my iron just can't get hot enough or can't distribute heat evenly enough. I don't have a laminator, but unless that works perfectly every time, I think I'll try to get a CNC mill and make PCBs that way. (The photo method works fine, but is a hassle with darkroom and extra chemical step.)
what paper is that
I need to press and peel some font to etch aluminum, whats the easiest/cheapest way to do this? its fairly small font, like 1/16th to 4mm font.
I don't know.
Ive never done aluminum. I imagine it's not much different.
Look around in here to see if you find anything good.
www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/?g2_page=1
If you don't find what you need there, go log into the madbeapedals.com forum and ask. They'll help.
I guess my main question is, how do i make the transfer labels easy/quick? really i just need the labels i know the basics of how to etch, just need a way to outline.
I can't see the difference between this blue transfer paper and low priced gloss photo paper that I use for making PCB
what program were you using to make this.. and how did you get multiples of circuits on one sheet I use eagle cad and just cant figure it out
+Täuschung
hey man.
Sorry I didn't see your question before.
What I do first is run a few test prints on normal paper to get the size of the circuit correct.
Then I do it the crappy way to get a bunch of circuits on one sheet.
I do a "print screen" capture and save it as a picture. then I past that picture into word and crop it down to just the circuit.
Then I copy and paste it over and over again.
Then do another test print on normal paper.
If it looks good, I print on the expensive fancy blue paper.
+Täuschung
I use Diptrace now. But I think that circuit was something I pulled off Madbean.
can you please tell me where you bought it from????
www.techniks.com/
NoPlaceForTheDead when I print out my circuit how do I no what size the circuit is going to be?
Owen Chase I'm not sure I understand your question.
The size of your circuit is whatever size you print out.
***** o ok, so the size i want is in my printer settings?
Oh yeah.
If you designed your own circuit (like in Eaglo or Diptrace) then you can measure out the dimensions of the circuit in that program. Then you know to print the circuit out at those measurements.
If you didn't design the circuit, then most people who provide DIY circuits will have it indicated in the documentation for said circuit.
Either way, once you get the dimensions of the circuit, make sure to set it up to print that size on your printer. May print a few tests on normal paper first to make sure you have the right settings.
***** ok thanks ya right now im using express pcb.
***** soldering wires from component to component is a pain in the ass, im so done with it.
6:12 mr garrison
haha shut up
I aways keep melting the dam plastic lol
Specifically, what paper is this? I have had no luck finding it on amazon.
www.techniks.com/
Heres another link rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202262673641
That's the shits for the cost and shipping of those sheets. I expected better