Sorry to be a downer but --- NEVER, EVER step across, reach for or handle an active PTO shaft. I don't care if the little shields aren't turning. DON'T DO IT! If you have to fool with the PTO, shut off the PTO and the tractor to do the work. NEVER remove the shields. Spoken as someone whose guardian angels saved his legs by only letting a pants leg rip off when I stepped across a moving shaft with a shield removed. I was lucky. You may not be.
@@chasetemple3129 The PTO shaft is in 2 pieces that slide in and out as the implement is raised or lowered. If the shaft is too long, raising the implement can cause the shaft to bind, and that force is directed to the transmission case (at the pto stub) and to the implement itself.
Thanks for the video and the information! We just got our first tractor with a PTO, looking forward to getting our first attachment, the information in the video was very helpful.
There is actually such a thing as a true front PTO on large agricultural tractors it also spins opposite to the rear PTO and the tractor will have a complete 3pt hitch on the front as well.
As in John Deere form, on the new 1 series tractors JD now uses a front three point hitch system so now you have to buy a new snow blower (or whatever front attachment you have) if you upgrade to a new tractor.
Can you do a video on how to use e-hydro controls? I get speedmatch to work sometimes, but no rhyme reason why. Same with loadmatch, the light comes on, but have no idea if its doing anything. No videos explaining it that I can find, and the manual is useless.
I don't have any toys to hook to my PTO.. gee I need to find something I "need" to do with one. (Or so I will tell my wife) then I will head over to GWT and buy a new toy to get some seat time. 😁😁😁
Great info I enjoy watching your videos and getting more info. Curiosity do have a video or maybe even your opinion on loading all 4 tires? I have a Deere 1025 R. I've got farmer friends and they say it won't hurt me any but dealer says it's hard on front end and front drive system. Any suggestions? Thank you
I would say from experience and everything I have watched, fill the rears, but not the fronts. Get some 40+ pound weights for the front that you can use when you need them. With the JD bracket and the small weights, you can use them and the loader at the same time. Not that you need front weight with a full bucket, BUT you don't have to take them off to use the loader quick😉 You can also add wheel weights in the rear, get weights for the the three point hitch with a Heavy Hitch brand weight bracket or a ballast box, or just use a heavy attachment on the rear. A quick hitch makes it easier to switch between them. All options have a cost with them, so do a little research to get what will make the most sense for your needs and property.
Interesting title… I contend that any tractor WITHOUT a PTO ain’t a “real” tractor. Also, I suggest that the _real_ most useful feature on any tractor is a center-lift hydraulic cylinder with an I-Match Quick-Hitch (GWT sells a couple real good Quick-Hitches; I bought the Speeco E-Hitch and love it). A hydraulic center-lift is indispensable for a single operator - no more jumping on and off the tractor to manually adjust an attachment to the 3-pt hitch, such as adjusting tillers, box blades, rakes, etc. The center-lift relates to a pre-purchase decision: get a tractor with the extra hydraulic connectors (3rd function and Fourth and Fifth SCV kits, as John Deere calls ‘em). They are required for half the really useful attachments one will (eventually) get: think front blade, grappler, etc. Getting these installed pre-purchase is a heck of a lot less expensive - and easier - than a post-purchase add-on: you’re gonna eventually need these “extra” hydraulic connections… I will also quadruply iterate Mike Haines comment. When I grew up, the PTO shafts were square with unprotected connection knuckles - and our work clothes were not tight fitting. So next time you want to bash OSHA, consider their decades old requirement: a simple, rationale PTO safety feature. Lots of folks, including me, had some VERY close calls. The straw-stuffed dummy in the video is a simplified version of a potential consequences that have really happened.
@jim brewer Well, I would call them castrated tractors. I grew up on a farm where grew sections of small grain. Unless an implement is self-propelled, all harvesting implements are powered by a PTO. Unless, before farmers could afford tractors or they never existed, horse or ox drawn implements powered the implement via gears on the implement's wheels.
I hate to ask a specific question, but I never seem to find required PTO HP ratings on augers. I should be getting my 1025R this month and I have many things that need holes. Everything from planting small trees, fence posts, footings for a deck... The list is long. How do I know what size auger I can use with an 18hp PTO?
@@daddio7249 mostly Miami loam type soil (eastern Indiana farm country) with some large stones but not many. I own fields, but rent them out to a farm company for the growing seasons
Sorry to be a downer but --- NEVER, EVER step across, reach for or handle an active PTO shaft. I don't care if the little shields aren't turning. DON'T DO IT! If you have to fool with the PTO, shut off the PTO and the tractor to do the work. NEVER remove the shields. Spoken as someone whose guardian angels saved his legs by only letting a pants leg rip off when I stepped across a moving shaft with a shield removed. I was lucky. You may not be.
Your not a downer. Your a good reminder for us all
I live near a farmer who lost his hands because he didn't shut off the PTO and tractor to clear the jam from his corn picker.
Great informative video. It is also worth noting that if the pto shaft is too long there is a real possibility of damaging the transmission case.
How can it damage the transmission case?
@@chasetemple3129 The PTO shaft is in 2 pieces that slide in and out as the implement is raised or lowered. If the shaft is too long, raising the implement can cause the shaft to bind, and that force is directed to the transmission case (at the pto stub) and to the implement itself.
I love these back to basics videos. Well done.
Good stuff for the laymen/amateur. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Good job well explained good info
Thanks for the video and the information! We just got our first tractor with a PTO, looking forward to getting our first attachment, the information in the video was very helpful.
Good info,learned about front pto and front snowblower!
There is actually such a thing as a true front PTO on large agricultural tractors it also spins opposite to the rear PTO and the tractor will have a complete 3pt hitch on the front as well.
I have a really strange set up on my garden tractor I have a rear and a front pto but a belt driven mower. Strange but it works great.
As in John Deere form, on the new 1 series tractors JD now uses a front three point hitch system so now you have to buy a new snow blower (or whatever front attachment you have) if you upgrade to a new tractor.
Can you do a video on how to use e-hydro controls? I get speedmatch to work sometimes, but no rhyme reason why. Same with loadmatch, the light comes on, but have no idea if its doing anything. No videos explaining it that I can find, and the manual is useless.
I don't have any toys to hook to my PTO.. gee I need to find something I "need" to do with one. (Or so I will tell my wife) then I will head over to GWT and buy a new toy to get some seat time. 😁😁😁
A tiller is multi use, in my opinion. Leveling, gardens, breaking up hard soil for better drainage, and good rear ballast 😉 Good luck with the wife.
Another great video Courtney! Back to basics….great stuff. You are doing a great job!
Great info I enjoy watching your videos and getting more info. Curiosity do have a video or maybe even your opinion on loading all 4 tires? I have a Deere 1025 R. I've got farmer friends and they say it won't hurt me any but dealer says it's hard on front end and front drive system. Any suggestions? Thank you
I would say from experience and everything I have watched, fill the rears, but not the fronts. Get some 40+ pound weights for the front that you can use when you need them. With the JD bracket and the small weights, you can use them and the loader at the same time. Not that you need front weight with a full bucket, BUT you don't have to take them off to use the loader quick😉 You can also add wheel weights in the rear, get weights for the the three point hitch with a Heavy Hitch brand weight bracket or a ballast box, or just use a heavy attachment on the rear. A quick hitch makes it easier to switch between them. All options have a cost with them, so do a little research to get what will make the most sense for your needs and property.
P.S. I also own a 1025R.
@@carlstrohm3785 GREAT LITTLE TRACTOR I BOUGHT ONE AND THEN TRADED IT FOR ANOTHER ONE
Really reliable realy strong however there is one exception. If your name is tractor time with Tim
I Checked out GWT, I am looking for a snow sweeper / broom for the front of a JD 3039R, 350x or a gator XUV , Do you carry them?
Interesting title… I contend that any tractor WITHOUT a PTO ain’t a “real” tractor. Also, I suggest that the _real_ most useful feature on any tractor is a center-lift hydraulic cylinder with an I-Match Quick-Hitch (GWT sells a couple real good Quick-Hitches; I bought the Speeco E-Hitch and love it). A hydraulic center-lift is indispensable for a single operator - no more jumping on and off the tractor to manually adjust an attachment to the 3-pt hitch, such as adjusting tillers, box blades, rakes, etc. The center-lift relates to a pre-purchase decision: get a tractor with the extra hydraulic connectors (3rd function and Fourth and Fifth SCV kits, as John Deere calls ‘em). They are required for half the really useful attachments one will (eventually) get: think front blade, grappler, etc. Getting these installed pre-purchase is a heck of a lot less expensive - and easier - than a post-purchase add-on: you’re gonna eventually need these “extra” hydraulic connections…
I will also quadruply iterate Mike Haines comment. When I grew up, the PTO shafts were square with unprotected connection knuckles - and our work clothes were not tight fitting. So next time you want to bash OSHA, consider their decades old requirement: a simple, rationale PTO safety feature. Lots of folks, including me, had some VERY close calls. The straw-stuffed dummy in the video is a simplified version of a potential consequences that have really happened.
@jim brewer Well, I would call them castrated tractors. I grew up on a farm where grew sections of small grain. Unless an implement is self-propelled, all harvesting implements are powered by a PTO. Unless, before farmers could afford tractors or they never existed, horse or ox drawn implements powered the implement via gears on the implement's wheels.
I hate to ask a specific question, but I never seem to find required PTO HP ratings on augers. I should be getting my 1025R this month and I have many things that need holes. Everything from planting small trees, fence posts, footings for a deck... The list is long.
How do I know what size auger I can use with an 18hp PTO?
Depends, what is your soil like, sand, loam, clay? Any rocks or roots?
@@daddio7249 mostly Miami loam type soil (eastern Indiana farm country) with some large stones but not many. I own fields, but rent them out to a farm company for the growing seasons