GREAT VIDEO, THANKS !!!! Couple of comments: (1) The tensioner has a little tab on the bottom with a hole which allows you to stick an allen wrench in to hold the tensioner in the "detensioned" position to get the belt on or off with the wrench out of the way. (2) The tensioner pulley apparently has TWO bearings in it whereas the idler just has ONE. THANKS AGAIN !!!!
Great video. Thanks. For folks with an older 2GR-FE engine the FEBEST 0187-GSU45 pulley is an exact fit for the 2008 Sienna. The Gates 36174 is not a match. BTW, the Gates 36173 pulley is good for the other 2 idlers on the belt.
FEBEST has reliability issues, users report 2 years before they begin to growl. NAPA could not find them in their catalog. But Amazon has them, so may be a ChiCom knock off.
Holy crap THANK YOU!!! I've been needing to swap out the tensioner and idler pulleys on our 2008 Highlander with the same 3.5 V6 for months and I've been dreading the project because - according to Toyota and AlldataDIY - you have to tear apart the radiator and A/C compressor to get at the tensioner's base and bolts. Crazy!! It only recently dawned on me that you must be able to replace just the pulley! It blows my mind this isn't more well-known and parts supplied for this. Thanks for the awesome video!! Our 226K mile Highlander shall continue to haul ass for us!
Great find on the 36174! Just performed this job, and here's what I noticed FWIW. First of all, the old bolt has to be used because it's left hand threaded. Also, the original dust shield has a step for the bolt flange, so I ended up using the original front dust shield. I did NOT use the reducer/rear shield from the new idler. Instead, I used a punch and removed the original reducer and installed it on new idler. I'd argue the original reducer is better since it's the whole length of the bearing, whereas the reducer that comes with the new idler only covers half of the length of the bearing. For the rear dust shield, I used a quarter inch 1" stainless steel washer and drilled out the center so it was a nice snug fit over the bolt. Note: a rear dust shield washer is necessary to align the idler center with the belt. There is a slight center offset difference between the original idler and the new idler, so a rear dust shield is important. Also, FWIW the old idler could be rebuilt. It uses two 6203DUL18 bearings instead of one bearing, like the new idler does.
Great info and video, thanks! Like another commenter I just bought new bearings and pressed them into the original pulley, super easy and cost $16 instead of $75CDN for the pulley.
Thank you, used this for my 2015 Sienna at 130K miles. Both the tensioner and idler pulley bearings were bad. Shame that toyota doesn't just list the tensioner pulley as a replaceable part.
Also, use an allen wrench to hold the tensioner in a loosened state by aligning the hole in the tensioner with the hole in the body, slide the allen wrench in, then slowly release the tension on the tensioner nut and it will be held by the allen wrench.
Thanks for the video, great! Here are a few comments. The only pulley I have found that is specifically advertised has a replacement for the tensioner pulley on my Sienna 2008 is the FEBEST 0187-GSU45. As for the Gates 36174 pulleys, according to the info available on their website, it’s an idler pulley for some Toyota/Lexus models. But maybe it has all the right specs, especially the bearings, to be used has a tensioner pulley. It would be nice to know what tensioner pulley is on the Gates tensioner kit 38410. Is it the 36174?
@Wolken Mit Zellen Thanks for the tip. I finally went fot the ''big job''. I replaced the belt tensioner, pulley included, and the belt with Continental products. The Van, a 2008, had about 130000 miles. Hope these will last at least 5 years/60000 miles. Time will tell....Best.
The distance from the pulley edge to bearing mount surface is critical. Otherwise the pulley will not be centered on the belt, or will hit the block. The Idler pulley overhang is different than the tensioner.
What did the noise sound like before It was replaced? And do you think this will be the same part # for 07 sienna? #36174 it's unfortunately $68 in store Minnesota
Oh no, i think you were supposed to press out the sleeve from the old pulley inside the bearings. Thise tensioner pulleys have teo bearings and a central sleeve that thr bolt then goes through. It looks like on the new tensioner you had an insert in thr back part but not in the front
I have a 2007 sienna that needs this replacement. $250 for an entire new assembly is not in the books for me. I need help finding the correct pulley to replace on my current tensioner.
Thanks mate, great demonstration. How did you diagnose the pulley is bad? My pulley is only making noise when gear is on D or R (load on the engine) and it is literally shaking little bit. Hopefully the noise from worn pulley bearing but it may be the tensioner assembly.. anyway thanks for great video.
The tensioner pulley i believe will move slightly due to it having a constant tension (kind of like a very strong rubber band). Any of those pulleys have bearings and could make noise.
@@hngl4243No, the problem was the belt tensioner itself. I replaced the pulley first but it was still wobbling, eventually I replaced whole tensioner assembly, wobbling and noise are gone. it was a bit annoying job because I had to take off alternator, radiator, radiator fans and a/c compressor to access the five tensioner bolts
How is this holding up? You had it for 2 years now. The bolt that you reused was it the same thickness as the new bolt? Or was it a little less thicker than the new bolt? If it is a little less thicker wouldn't it have play when fully installed? I am doing a major overhaul where I am doing waterpump, idler, tensioner and spark plugs and PCV. I just wanted to make sure if this a good setup or should I press the old sleave from the old bearing and press it in to the new one. Thanks
I used a size 11mm to tap out the old sleave(race) and tap it into a gates pulley from the their belt tensioner I believe The 36174 is for the bottom pulley yes I bought the gates kit too much work to replace only have 100,000 miles
I was just typing it so I don’t have to rewatch the video for just the part number. Amazon has it, I just strictly followed your advice based in the conclusions with the measurements
GREAT VIDEO, THANKS !!!! Couple of comments: (1) The tensioner has a little tab on the bottom with a hole which allows you to stick an allen wrench in to hold the tensioner in the "detensioned" position to get the belt on or off with the wrench out of the way. (2) The tensioner pulley apparently has TWO bearings in it whereas the idler just has ONE. THANKS AGAIN !!!!
2(Pack) 6203 2RS C3 / DDUC3 NSK 2 RUBBER SHIELDED BALL BEARING 17X40X12CM
Great video. Thanks. For folks with an older 2GR-FE engine the FEBEST 0187-GSU45 pulley is an exact fit for the 2008 Sienna. The Gates 36174 is not a match. BTW, the Gates 36173 pulley is good for the other 2 idlers on the belt.
How about for 2008 toyota highlander?
FEBEST has reliability issues, users report 2 years before they begin to growl. NAPA could not find them in their catalog. But Amazon has them, so may be a ChiCom knock off.
@@alecbryantalledodid it work? from the video?
Holy crap THANK YOU!!! I've been needing to swap out the tensioner and idler pulleys on our 2008 Highlander with the same 3.5 V6 for months and I've been dreading the project because - according to Toyota and AlldataDIY - you have to tear apart the radiator and A/C compressor to get at the tensioner's base and bolts. Crazy!! It only recently dawned on me that you must be able to replace just the pulley! It blows my mind this isn't more well-known and parts supplied for this. Thanks for the awesome video!! Our 226K mile Highlander shall continue to haul ass for us!
Very dishonest isn’t it.
will this work for 2009 toyota highlighter v6 and did you use the tensioner pulley he suggested?
Great find on the 36174! Just performed this job, and here's what I noticed FWIW. First of all, the old bolt has to be used because it's left hand threaded. Also, the original dust shield has a step for the bolt flange, so I ended up using the original front dust shield. I did NOT use the reducer/rear shield from the new idler. Instead, I used a punch and removed the original reducer and installed it on new idler. I'd argue the original reducer is better since it's the whole length of the bearing, whereas the reducer that comes with the new idler only covers half of the length of the bearing. For the rear dust shield, I used a quarter inch 1" stainless steel washer and drilled out the center so it was a nice snug fit over the bolt. Note: a rear dust shield washer is necessary to align the idler center with the belt. There is a slight center offset difference between the original idler and the new idler, so a rear dust shield is important. Also, FWIW the old idler could be rebuilt. It uses two 6203DUL18 bearings instead of one bearing, like the new idler does.
Great info and video, thanks! Like another commenter I just bought new bearings and pressed them into the original pulley, super easy and cost $16 instead of $75CDN for the pulley.
What new bearings did you buy?
Thank you very much. Now that you clear everything , I will carry out with the replacement job tomorrow morning.
what a great tutorial on this replacement! Thank you
Thank you, used this for my 2015 Sienna at 130K miles. Both the tensioner and idler pulley bearings were bad. Shame that toyota doesn't just list the tensioner pulley as a replaceable part.
Thanks for the tips. Hoping everything goes well tomorrow when I am ready for show time🙃
Also, use an allen wrench to hold the tensioner in a loosened state by aligning the hole in the tensioner with the hole in the body, slide the allen wrench in, then slowly release the tension on the tensioner nut and it will be held by the allen wrench.
This is wrong information
Thanks for the video, great! Here are a few comments. The only pulley I have found that is specifically advertised has a replacement for the tensioner pulley on my Sienna 2008 is the FEBEST 0187-GSU45. As for the Gates 36174 pulleys, according to the info available on their website, it’s an idler pulley for some Toyota/Lexus models. But maybe it has all the right specs, especially the bearings, to be used has a tensioner pulley. It would be nice to know what tensioner pulley is on the Gates tensioner kit 38410. Is it the 36174?
@Wolken Mit Zellen Thanks for the tip. I finally went fot the ''big job''. I replaced the belt tensioner, pulley included, and the belt with Continental products. The Van, a 2008, had about 130000 miles. Hope these will last at least 5 years/60000 miles. Time will tell....Best.
Great video thanks!!
The distance from the pulley edge to bearing mount surface is critical. Otherwise the pulley will not be centered on the belt, or will hit the block. The Idler pulley overhang is different than the tensioner.
Thanks for all the detailed measurements!
Excellent video
Great video, just the information that I needed, thank you
What did the noise sound like before It was replaced? And do you think this will be the same part # for 07 sienna? #36174 it's unfortunately $68 in store Minnesota
Thank you
Oh no, i think you were supposed to press out the sleeve from the old pulley inside the bearings. Thise tensioner pulleys have teo bearings and a central sleeve that thr bolt then goes through. It looks like on the new tensioner you had an insert in thr back part but not in the front
I DO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 2016 TOYOTA SIENNA XLE.COULD U PLEASE TELL WHERE CAN I BUY THA PART U SHOWING ON THE VIDEO.PART #36174 ?
There was actually a recall for at least the 06-08 rav4 v6 that was for those washers causing squeaking
I have a 2007 sienna that needs this replacement. $250 for an entire new assembly is not in the books for me. I need help finding the correct pulley to replace on my current tensioner.
Same for me. I replace just the tensioner pulley it did not work. I need the whole assembly
Thanks mate, great demonstration. How did you diagnose the pulley is bad? My pulley is only making noise when gear is on D or R (load on the engine) and it is literally shaking little bit. Hopefully the noise from worn pulley bearing but it may be the tensioner assembly.. anyway thanks for great video.
I have the same problem. Was it the pulley?
The tensioner pulley i believe will move slightly due to it having a constant tension (kind of like a very strong rubber band). Any of those pulleys have bearings and could make noise.
@@hngl4243No, the problem was the belt tensioner itself. I replaced the pulley first but it was still wobbling, eventually I replaced whole tensioner assembly, wobbling and noise are gone. it was a bit annoying job because I had to take off alternator, radiator, radiator fans and a/c compressor to access the five tensioner bolts
will this work for 2009 toyota highlander v6 engine with tensioner pulley you suggested?
I'm not 100% without looking. Is it a 2grfe?
How is this holding up? You had it for 2 years now. The bolt that you reused was it the same thickness as the new bolt? Or was it a little less thicker than the new bolt? If it is a little less thicker wouldn't it have play when fully installed? I am doing a major overhaul where I am doing waterpump, idler, tensioner and spark plugs and PCV. I just wanted to make sure if this a good setup or should I press the old sleave from the old bearing and press it in to the new one. Thanks
All good. No issues
@@BlakesGarage1 thanks for replying
@@BlakesGarage1 how many miles did you put on the van since installing this pulley?
@a m I'm not sure but I would guess 50-70k
I used a size 11mm to tap out the old sleave(race) and tap it into a gates pulley from the their belt tensioner I believe The 36174 is for the bottom pulley yes I bought the gates kit too much work to replace only have 100,000 miles
Hi,is that Toyota Sienna 2011 3.5L v6..thank you
Yes I believe it was, possibly 2012
Still no problems from this tensioner?
Nope, all good!
But you didn't show the sound from the old pulley to compare it with the new one.
What is it you need to hear?
@@BlakesGarage1 the comparison of the damaged pullley and the new one once it was installed :) peace
You did not show the noisy bearing;
Where Can i get
Oreillys
@@BlakesGarage1 tank you
How many mileages you have on sienna
Nearing 200k
I just knock the bearings out and replace with appropriate bearing. cheaper
2(Pack) 6203 2RS C3 / DDUC3 NSK 2 RUBBER SHIELDED BALL BEARING 17X40X12CM
“Part number is Gates 36174. USD$30”
Hi David, is it Gates 36174 or 3? Looked on Rock Auto and it listed as 36173. Please confirm, thank you!
I was just typing it so I don’t have to rewatch the video for just the part number. Amazon has it, I just strictly followed your advice based in the conclusions with the measurements
@@DaveStar573 Thank you for the quick response. I paused the video to make sure. Have a great day!
so the idler puller shares the same bearing with tensioner puller?
@@ask43242flight looks like they do NOT share the same bearing. The tensioner has a more beefier bearing than the idler
A bit drawn out and a bit long but good vid none the less