Was this dude a teacher at some point? His explanation was perfectly logical, started at the beginning, didn't leave anything out, and I can't think how to make this video better or shorter. Also that engine looks incredible. Great work.
Glad I found this. Straight to the point, no pun intended. I'm in the middle of rebuilding an HH60. Hope I can get it back up and running. Thanks for posting! Not too many fellas around that tinker with this stuff anymore. All the best!
Been working on the same engine rebuilding a WH 654. My problem is carb linkage. Look forward to your video showing carb set up. Thanks. Love the channel
I bought an old Ariens Rocket VII tiller the other day. Brought it home checked fire, and it would start and run for about 30 seconds and die. It did it 3-4 times, so I changed the carb. It wouldn't hit a lick after that. I pulled the flywheel to check the points, and they were pitted so I changed them. I was putting the flywheel back on and noticed the 2 magnets were stuck to each other, one had come loose. I pulled on both of them and they both came off. I JB Welded them back in position. Now it backfires, so I guess I need to adjust the timing slightly.
I have found that when you take off the ignition system clean and deburr the metal surfaces especially the shoulders which have cast flashing. A file and deburring tool does the job well. Then cover the mating surfaces with petroleum and place good washers that hold the ignition system down. This makes adjusting the timing real easy. This was shown to my by my friend Mr. Snyder fifty years ago. I still remember the kind man with knowledge he learned working at Mack Trucks In Allentown Pennsylvania. May God have mercy on his soul. Peace vf
This helped me a lot on timing my H60. Fired right up and ran good until the coil retaining clip popped off and the flywheel decided to chew on the coil for a little bit. Lol!! Oh well. At least I didn't lose the clip!
This makes a large difference on these old tecumseh's they'll either run like crap or they'll snap the rope right out of your hand if you don't have that right. I never had the pleasure of owning an HH I've only dabbled in the LAV series and some LH.
Great video. I acquired an old tecumseh motor identical to this with an electric start. I disconnected the wires to the points and have my test light setup in the same scenario. I set my points gap to 020 (waiting on my dial indicator to arrive to check TDC). If I have no spark, but my test light lights up when the points connect, would a fair assumption be the coil is bad? What about the condenser? I'm ignorant.
I'd try one thing that don't cost money first. It's possible the points could light a test light but have too much resistance to charge the coil. Clean the points with a file and make sure there's no visible pits or burn marks and reset the points gap. If still no spark it could be the coil or condenser. The condenser usually don't go bad unless it's dented or damaged so a bad coil is more common than a bad condenser. You can check both with a multimeter and there are videos out there to describe how to check each one.
Knowing this engine has a decompressor system to aid in starting, what would be a good compression test reading? I am getting 64 PSI on mine but have nothing to compare it with. Thanks
Hi, I'd have to say I don't know. I've never tested one. I looked through Tecumseh's mechanic's handbook for 3 to 10 HP engines and didn't find any reference to a compression test. Maybe they don't give a spec because it depends on how fast you pull the rope.
Yes that may be the case. This H60 does have electric start which turns the engine quicker than manual but I have no way of knowing if it turns fast enough to override the decompression system. This one has me baffled. Rebuilt the engine but it just will not fire. I’ll continue my search. Really appreciate your efforts and most definitely appreciate and enjoy your posts. Thanks again
Use a drill to crank it backwards to get an accurate compression reading. But forwards everything above 50 PSI should be a runner. The true compression (backwards) should be more than 95 psi.
Do small engines that have a solid state ignition need to be timed in a similar fashion and how about Brigs and Stratton small engines have a similar way to set ignition timing
Tecumseh is the only one I know of that uses this method. I don't know much about Briggs and Stratton. Kohler has marks on the flywheel so you can use a timing light. If the engine is new enough to have solid state ignition, it probably has marks on the flywheel for a timing light.
Great Video! I like this better than my Factory School Training VHS cassette from the Tecumseh Education Department circa 1986 where they basically go through the same process but talk about alternatives to using a test light and using the special tool for the indicator when the head cover is still on the block. Question: I have an H60 Tecumseh. Why can’t you use the magnetic base type indicator when the head cover is off?
Hi, the H60 (Horizontal 6.0hp) has an aluminum block so the magnet don't stick. The cylinder is cast with steel or cast particles where the piston rides so the cylinder don't wear out prematurely. The engine I am working with in the video is an HH60 (Heavy Horizontal 6.0hp) which has a cast iron block. Thanks for Watching!
Great vid. I have an h60 tecumseh. Cleaned and gapped the points. It now has spark, idles well, but backfires through the carb and stalls out at full throttle. I timed it with a dial indicator. Should I install new points and condenser, or go back and gap and time again? I'm pretty sure it's a timing issue...thanks!
Put an automotive clamp on timing light on it to make sure it is the spark disappearing at full throttle. Power the timing light with a spare car battery. If it is a spark problem make sure you can't wiggle the crank around too much on the flywheel end. I had one that ran good with no load but missed and stalled under load and it was the main bearings worn so the points cam would wander around and change the ignition timing. After that I would go back to the old points, remove them so you can see each face,, and use a points file until all holes are gone and you have a smooth rounded surface on both sides. I'd change the condenser last.
I used the test light and battery like you showed in this vid. Regapped the new points, and got it timed within spec. It's now running good. Thanks for uploading this vid, and for responding to my question
This is an awesome video. A lot of help. I have an HH60 that I am trying to rebuild. Can you tell me where to find the specs for points opening and such? I thought a dial indicator was going to cost hundreds of dollars, but I thought wrong. Ordered one.
The manual I have is called Mechanic's Handbook, 3 to 10 H.P. and OVM120, (light & medium frame) Tecumseh Engines. The Tecumseh part number for the book is 692509. It covers a lot of engines so the information is generic but it does have a table of specifications. I've seen it on eBay before, don't get one that says OHV (over head valve) or 2-cycle on it. To get you started, the point setting is .020, and the Timing Dimension Before Top Dead Center that I talk about in the video is .080.
@@PackratsFabrications Thank You I found a Tecumseh Technicians Hanbook on line for free download. www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/Techumseh-L-Head-Engines-Manual.pdf
My Tecumseh H60 has torn up 2 recoils from the starter sleeve rubbing on the round part of recoil . Can't figure out why ? Any help would be appreciated
If the housing the recoil mounts on is not damaged or distorted, and is holding it in the correct position, I'd expect maybe the starter cup sticks out too far. Make sure there's no washer behind the cup. Also there were a few different recoils available, maybe the cup is the wrong one for the recoil.
Hi, Since they are not made any more you have to get old books, aftermarket parts or sometimes NOS parts from a collector. For the specs I'd go to eBay and search for Tecumseh Mechanics Handbook. The one I use says for 3 to 10 HP, sometimes they'll say L-head engines, don't get the one that says overhead valve engines. For aftermarket parts I use www.rcpw.com. On eBay you can find old NOS or used parts and also aftermarket parts.
@@PackratsFabrications ooh alright I see, I was just wondering lol I mean if it runs that's totally cool 😄 awesome video though for sure, I live hearing these old tecumsehs come to back to life. They're really something
I did four of them engines this year for customers, but when it comes to mine, I still have no spark. Darn things driving me nuts. I even put a new coil, since the points and condenser did not help. Everything is in time, and points are set to 20 Starting to wounder if a fly wheel can go bad. I never heard this engine run, so i dont know if it had truble years ago, and thats why they put it out back. Getting tempted to just put a Clinton on the tractor instead.
The flywheel can go bad if it looses its magnetism. Maybe test it by swapping a flywheel from a working unit. The magneto repair shop near me (in Ohio) can recharge magnets, I don't know how many places still do that.
What happens to these old Tecumseh engines is the main crankshaft bearings wear. Crankshaft bounces around and won't stay in time. You can put on new coils, points, flywheels and try to set the timing until the cows come home and still won't run. IF you happen to get the blooming thing started, and rev it up, half the time they'll backfire and then seems to knock them out of adjustment and they won't hit a lick after that. I'm not a professional small engine mechanic, but have tinkered with these for HOURS. And yeah, did the dial gauge thing too, but did not have a fancy professional mount like yours. Told this to several small engine shop mechanics and got the deer in the headlight look. Solution, well Tecumseh unlike B&S never offered replaceable bearings. Find you a darn good machinist and he may be willing to ream out the crankcase, and install new crankshaft bearings the engine never had originally. Won't be cheap mind you, but that's what its gonna take. Hope this helps somebody!
Dr Blue!.... It’s more than likely a ground issue. Check those set of points that the tension arm is not grounding out on the block casing. Doubtful flywheel mags. You can test magnetic pull by dangling a big flathead screwdriver tip 1 inch in front of each mag. Should suck screwdriver tip in.
I bought an old Ariens Rocket VII tiller the other day. Brought it home checked fire, and it would start and run for about 30 seconds and die. It did it 3-4 times, so I changed the carb. It wouldn't hit a lick after that. I pulled the flywheel to check the points, and they were pitted so I changed them. I was putting the flywheel back on and noticed the 2 magnets were stuck to each other, one had come loose. I pulled on both of them and they both came off. I JB Welded them back in position. Now it backfires, so I guess I need to adjust the timing slightly. Hope this helps.
I know this is an old video, but maybe you can help me. I have been searching high and low for an answer. I am attempting to set the timing on an H70. In the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook on page 95, it says .080 BTDC for an H70. On page 96 it says .090 BTDC for an H70. Do you know which is correct? Thank You.
It looks like page 96 only refers to the TVM70 and HM70 and page 95 refers to all the other 70 size engines. If your starter housing is stamped H70 and not HM70 then it has to be page 95, .080 BTDC. The M means Medium frame but I don't know what that is so if your housing is not marked or unreadable, I'd still use .080 BTDC until I found out how to identify a Medium frame engine.
@@PackratsFabrications The second column on page 96 refers to an H70, at least in my book. My starter housing is not original to the motor. It said HH60. This is an aluminum block. Bore spec, and rod crank journal size indicate it's a 70.
@@waynew2831 OK, I checked a different book, looks like it was printed 11/85. The specification columns don't go by models but by displacement. It shows engines with bore size 2.625, and 2.750 use the .080 BTDC setting, and engines with bore size 2.9375 up to 3.312 (5 different ones) use the .090 BTDC setting.
Your Welcome, I don't know what year it is. It was in a 1962 wheel horse but can't be original because Wheel Horse didn't use cast iron blocks. It looks the same as the aluminum block engines Wheel Horse used in 1962 so I put it back into that tractor and it looks like it's supposed to be there.
@@PackratsFabrications Hello , Talk about DEAD ON they dont come ANY closer than that!!!!!! Perfection!!!! Have You ever scribed the mag to (mark the location) to ease in next time ? Very nice how to video on mag/point setting!!!
I think my coil is bad on my 2 stroke motor I didn't think I was doing it wrong I just going to put a kx set up on it I didn't really want to but it would be better an not to hard
Was this dude a teacher at some point? His explanation was perfectly logical, started at the beginning, didn't leave anything out, and I can't think how to make this video better or shorter. Also that engine looks incredible. Great work.
Glad I found this. Straight to the point, no pun intended.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding an HH60. Hope I can get it back up and running.
Thanks for posting! Not too many fellas around that tinker with this stuff anymore.
All the best!
The best timing video on youtube !
My 5 hp is the same specs! Wouldn't have been able to do it without this video! much thx!
Been working on the same engine rebuilding a WH 654. My problem is carb linkage. Look forward to your video showing carb set up. Thanks. Love the channel
I bought an old Ariens Rocket VII tiller the other day. Brought it home checked fire, and it would start and run for about 30 seconds and die. It did it 3-4 times, so I changed the carb. It wouldn't hit a lick after that. I pulled the flywheel to check the points, and they were pitted so I changed them. I was putting the flywheel back on and noticed the 2 magnets were stuck to each other, one had come loose. I pulled on both of them and they both came off. I JB Welded them back in position. Now it backfires, so I guess I need to adjust the timing slightly.
I have found that when you take off the ignition system clean and deburr the metal surfaces especially the shoulders which have cast flashing. A file and deburring tool does the job well. Then cover the mating surfaces with petroleum and place good washers that hold the ignition system down. This makes adjusting the timing real easy. This was shown to my by my friend Mr. Snyder fifty years ago. I still remember the kind man with knowledge he learned working at Mack Trucks In Allentown Pennsylvania. May God have mercy on his soul. Peace vf
Im rebuilding an Tecumseh H70 and find this video to be very informative Thanks!
Thank you for the knowledge. Saved my sanity.
Thanks for taking the time to show us this.
I can see you are very knowledgeable about to San Jose and I enjoy watching them so keep up the good work
This helped me a lot on timing my H60. Fired right up and ran good until the coil retaining clip popped off and the flywheel decided to chew on the coil for a little bit. Lol!! Oh well. At least I didn't lose the clip!
Thank you. This video helped me figure out my timing problem. Just one critique, the dial indicator was out of focus.
This makes a large difference on these old tecumseh's they'll either run like crap or they'll snap the rope right out of your hand if you don't have that right. I never had the pleasure of owning an HH I've only dabbled in the LAV series and some LH.
Great video. I acquired an old tecumseh motor identical to this with an electric start. I disconnected the wires to the points and have my test light setup in the same scenario. I set my points gap to 020 (waiting on my dial indicator to arrive to check TDC). If I have no spark, but my test light lights up when the points connect, would a fair assumption be the coil is bad? What about the condenser? I'm ignorant.
I'd try one thing that don't cost money first. It's possible the points could light a test light but have too much resistance to charge the coil. Clean the points with a file and make sure there's no visible pits or burn marks and reset the points gap. If still no spark it could be the coil or condenser. The condenser usually don't go bad unless it's dented or damaged so a bad coil is more common than a bad condenser. You can check both with a multimeter and there are videos out there to describe how to check each one.
Knowing this engine has a decompressor system to aid in starting, what would be a good compression test reading? I am getting 64 PSI on mine but have nothing to compare it with. Thanks
Hi, I'd have to say I don't know. I've never tested one. I looked through Tecumseh's mechanic's handbook for 3 to 10 HP engines and didn't find any reference to a compression test. Maybe they don't give a spec because it depends on how fast you pull the rope.
Yes that may be the case. This H60 does have electric start which turns the engine quicker than manual but I have no way of knowing if it turns fast enough to override the decompression system. This one has me baffled. Rebuilt the engine but it just will not fire. I’ll continue my search. Really appreciate your efforts and most definitely appreciate and enjoy your posts. Thanks again
Use a drill to crank it backwards to get an accurate compression reading. But forwards everything above 50 PSI should be a runner. The true compression (backwards) should be more than 95 psi.
Do small engines that have a solid state ignition need to be timed in a similar fashion and how about Brigs and Stratton small engines have a similar way to set ignition timing
Tecumseh is the only one I know of that uses this method. I don't know much about Briggs and Stratton. Kohler has marks on the flywheel so you can use a timing light. If the engine is new enough to have solid state ignition, it probably has marks on the flywheel for a timing light.
Awesome Video ~ Thank You
Great Video!
I like this better than my Factory School Training VHS cassette from the Tecumseh Education Department circa 1986 where they basically go through the same process but talk about alternatives to using a test light and using the special tool for the indicator when the head cover is still on the block.
Question: I have an H60 Tecumseh. Why can’t you use the magnetic base type indicator when the head cover is off?
Hi, the H60 (Horizontal 6.0hp) has an aluminum block so the magnet don't stick. The cylinder is cast with steel or cast particles where the piston rides so the cylinder don't wear out prematurely. The engine I am working with in the video is an HH60 (Heavy Horizontal 6.0hp) which has a cast iron block. Thanks for Watching!
Great vid. I have an h60 tecumseh. Cleaned and gapped the points. It now has spark, idles well, but backfires through the carb and stalls out at full throttle. I timed it with a dial indicator. Should I install new points and condenser, or go back and gap and time again? I'm pretty sure it's a timing issue...thanks!
Put an automotive clamp on timing light on it to make sure it is the spark disappearing at full throttle. Power the timing light with a spare car battery. If it is a spark problem make sure you can't wiggle the crank around too much on the flywheel end. I had one that ran good with no load but missed and stalled under load and it was the main bearings worn so the points cam would wander around and change the ignition timing. After that I would go back to the old points, remove them so you can see each face,, and use a points file until all holes are gone and you have a smooth rounded surface on both sides. I'd change the condenser last.
I used the test light and battery like you showed in this vid. Regapped the new points, and got it timed within spec. It's now running good. Thanks for uploading this vid, and for responding to my question
This is an awesome video. A lot of help. I have an HH60 that I am trying to rebuild. Can you tell me where to find the specs for points opening and such? I thought a dial indicator was going to cost hundreds of dollars, but I thought wrong. Ordered one.
The manual I have is called Mechanic's Handbook, 3 to 10 H.P. and OVM120, (light & medium frame) Tecumseh Engines. The Tecumseh part number for the book is 692509. It covers a lot of engines so the information is generic but it does have a table of specifications. I've seen it on eBay before, don't get one that says OHV (over head valve) or 2-cycle on it. To get you started, the point setting is .020, and the Timing Dimension Before Top Dead Center that I talk about in the video is .080.
@@PackratsFabrications Thank You I found a Tecumseh Technicians Hanbook on line for free download. www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/Techumseh-L-Head-Engines-Manual.pdf
I just sold a Troy Bilt horse tiller that had one. Strong engine.
My Tecumseh H60 has torn up 2 recoils from the starter sleeve rubbing on the round part of recoil .
Can't figure out why ?
Any help would be appreciated
If the housing the recoil mounts on is not damaged or distorted, and is holding it in the correct position, I'd expect maybe the starter cup sticks out too far. Make sure there's no washer behind the cup. Also there were a few different recoils available, maybe the cup is the wrong one for the recoil.
Great video!!!! Learned allot
I have basically the same engine on an old craftsman tiller. Wheres a good place to find specs and parts. I appreciate any help.
Hi, Since they are not made any more you have to get old books, aftermarket parts or sometimes NOS parts from a collector.
For the specs I'd go to eBay and search for Tecumseh Mechanics Handbook. The one I use says for 3 to 10 HP, sometimes they'll say L-head engines, don't get the one that says overhead valve engines.
For aftermarket parts I use www.rcpw.com. On eBay you can find old NOS or used parts and also aftermarket parts.
Why are the valves painted?
I think that's just paint overspray because I was too lazy to mask off that area. But hey I cleaned all the paint off of the gasket area.
@@PackratsFabrications ooh alright I see, I was just wondering lol I mean if it runs that's totally cool 😄 awesome video though for sure, I live hearing these old tecumsehs come to back to life. They're really something
do they make a magneto conversion for this motor? (no points)
I don't know for sure, but I have never seen one.
I did four of them engines this year for customers, but when it comes to mine, I still have no spark. Darn things driving me nuts. I even put a new coil, since the points and condenser did not help. Everything is in time, and points are set to 20 Starting to wounder if a fly wheel can go bad. I never heard this engine run, so i dont know if it had truble years ago, and thats why they put it out back. Getting tempted to just put a Clinton on the tractor instead.
The flywheel can go bad if it looses its magnetism. Maybe test it by swapping a flywheel from a working unit. The magneto repair shop near me (in Ohio) can recharge magnets, I don't know how many places still do that.
What happens to these old Tecumseh engines is the main crankshaft bearings wear. Crankshaft bounces around and won't stay in time. You can put on new coils, points, flywheels and try to set the timing until the cows come home and still won't run. IF you happen to get the blooming thing started, and rev it up, half the time they'll backfire and then seems to knock them out of adjustment and they won't hit a lick after that. I'm not a professional small engine mechanic, but have tinkered with these for HOURS. And yeah, did the dial gauge thing too, but did not have a fancy professional mount like yours. Told this to several small engine shop mechanics and got the deer in the headlight look. Solution, well Tecumseh unlike B&S never offered replaceable bearings. Find you a darn good machinist and he may be willing to ream out the crankcase, and install new crankshaft bearings the engine never had originally. Won't be cheap mind you, but that's what its gonna take. Hope this helps somebody!
Dr Blue!.... It’s more than likely a ground issue. Check those set of points that the tension arm is not grounding out on the block casing. Doubtful flywheel mags. You can test magnetic pull by dangling a big flathead screwdriver tip 1 inch in front of each mag. Should suck screwdriver tip in.
I bought an old Ariens Rocket VII tiller the other day. Brought it home checked fire, and it would start and run for about 30 seconds and die. It did it 3-4 times, so I changed the carb. It wouldn't hit a lick after that. I pulled the flywheel to check the points, and they were pitted so I changed them. I was putting the flywheel back on and noticed the 2 magnets were stuck to each other, one had come loose. I pulled on both of them and they both came off. I JB Welded them back in position. Now it backfires, so I guess I need to adjust the timing slightly. Hope this helps.
I know this is an old video, but maybe you can help me. I have been searching high and low for an answer. I am attempting to set the timing on an H70. In the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook on page 95, it says .080 BTDC for an H70. On page 96 it says .090 BTDC for an H70. Do you know which is correct? Thank You.
It looks like page 96 only refers to the TVM70 and HM70 and page 95 refers to all the other 70 size engines. If your starter housing is stamped H70 and not HM70 then it has to be page 95, .080 BTDC. The M means Medium frame but I don't know what that is so if your housing is not marked or unreadable, I'd still use .080 BTDC until I found out how to identify a Medium frame engine.
@@PackratsFabrications The second column on page 96 refers to an H70, at least in my book. My starter housing is not original to the motor. It said HH60. This is an aluminum block. Bore spec, and rod crank journal size indicate it's a 70.
@@waynew2831 OK, I checked a different book, looks like it was printed 11/85. The specification columns don't go by models but by displacement. It shows engines with bore size 2.625, and 2.750 use the .080 BTDC setting, and engines with bore size 2.9375 up to 3.312 (5 different ones) use the .090 BTDC setting.
@@PackratsFabrications Thank You for your trouble.
But I do have a displacement of 2.75
Interesting thank you.
hello how can we do this on honda gx models
Hi, sorry I don't know anything about Honda engines.
Thank u Sir
!What yr is that Motor?
Your Welcome, I don't know what year it is. It was in a 1962 wheel horse but can't be original because Wheel Horse didn't use cast iron blocks. It looks the same as the aluminum block engines Wheel Horse used in 1962 so I put it back into that tractor and it looks like it's supposed to be there.
@@PackratsFabrications Hello , Talk about DEAD ON they dont come ANY closer than that!!!!!! Perfection!!!! Have You ever scribed the mag to (mark the location) to ease in next time ? Very nice how to video on mag/point setting!!!
I think my coil is bad on my 2 stroke motor I didn't think I was doing it wrong I just going to put a kx set up on it I didn't really want to but it would be better an not to hard
Within 5 is spec 20 thousands point gap 80 degrees of TDC .
That’s a like for you my friend
Use a hammer to set timing is a new one to me-😅