DIY How To Make Studded Snow Ice Motocross Motorcycle Tires
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2015
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Thanks for the info. I made these 3 years ago for an xr650. I cut car tire tubes to line the inside and used vulcanized rubber as an adhesive. Last year the studs started to unscrew. I used green lock tite and tighten them. Worked good
excellent. good tip. Glad you're enjoying them.
I ended up making these last year. They are absolutely incredible!!!! I used fire hose material for liner. Works excellent
Super!! Glad they're working for you.
How many hours you get before no grip
@@nutzy99ify rears are usually good for a season. 20-30 rides. We keep them on into the spring and finish wearing them out getting grip on icy/muddy spring trails before everything is thawed out.
@@wandurolife thanks man. I grabbed 300 last night . Got a river and lake near me and river goes to trails when shea mor efrozen river goes to both trails and lake. Gonna be sweet with theae
@@nutzy99ify Check out the new version of this video for some more details. The most important thing is putting in a thick, strong liner that keeps the screw heads from wearing through the tube.
Damn that looks like fun. Don't have to wait till spring for a ride no more.Thanks for posting.
Exactly!
so i did this with my crf450 for a winter hare scramble. 1 hour long race on frozen clay i would first like to say WOW they hook up great. but after about 30 min into the race or so I ended up chewing through all of them lol. my buddy had the same problem. so i would say these studs are geared for ice or frozen BLACK dirt. dont try riding on clay with them they will get chewed down in no time. im building another pair just for ice riding because it works so much better with snow on top of ice in comparison to the ice screws(kold kutters) i hope this helps out everyone who wants to do this. all in all its a great way to stud just dont be disappointed when you wear them down in an hour of clay riding, also if you do this to the CENTER of your front tire and Kold Kutters on the outside you will have no issues with clearance to fork tubes. this setup will let you bite into anything. and they hold up great...im gonna keep running my front tire because it works out so good with snow riding. nails dig faster than the screws do so you get a planted front tire. turns get rutted out so by couple runs you can use cutters on the side efficiently. hope this helps
+Chris Bates Great input Chris!! You're right, we ride them in snow up to about 5 inches deep, or compacted icy snow, or ice. In the spring, when the snow is melting and trails are slippery, muddy with icy and snowy sections in the shade, we just leave them on until they're worn out. Ice screws are much better than this for bare ice, but not so good for snow. Daan rode a friend's bike on carbide studs, so now he's got some on order. $200 per tire! We'll see how it works. He's expecting magic. ;-)
Great video Trent. I think you are going to get me hooked on the motorbike yet.
***** Careful... once you're hooked there's no turning back..
I recommend ice tire screws, so the screw head is the main thing, and then do not penetrate the tire all the way, only the knobs.
The tire ends up much lighter this way, and you can use green slime for leaks, or you can go with yellow foam for ice tires
Ice tire screws like they use for ice racing are great for ice riding, but much too expensive to use on the trails. When I have my ice racing tires on, I am super careful that they do not touch anything that could dull their knife-edge sharpness. That means using only wooden ramps and wooden trailer decks, wrapping them in a protective ice tire cover and never using them on anything but ice. True ice racing tire screws are also quite long and require an extra liner inside that they screw into. This extra liner is often a street motorcycle tire with the sidewalls cut off. Then the tube you use is a mountain bike tire tube. The do this so that the screws remain rigid and do not flex with acceleration or cornering.
The other option is carbide studs with the "corkscrew" type of screw that go into the knobs. These are great because the corkscrew holds them firmly in the knob. The disadvantage is that they are expensive. Expect to use about $150 to $250 worth of studs for a rear tire. They work fairly well on loosely packed snow because they stick out further than ice screws.
And then there's the concrete screws. They are relatively cheap and their length makes them great for variable snow conditions.
they are HELLA cheap on amazon. I got 5lbs for 10 dollars @@wandurolife
@@stephenmwyatt2 you got owned man shut up. These last longer n work just as damn good
great job..question did you stud front tire using same pattern or did you use far less studs on front tire?
More or less the same pattern. Knobs on front are usually smaller, so can only hold 1 screw. But every knob except the ones on the edge should have a screw.
oh and would you suggest any side studs on the front tire seems like if there are none at all it would want to slide out on you
We're not using concrete screws on the knobs on the edge. That tends to make it squirrely in ruts and such. You could use something like sheet metal screws or cold kutter ice tire screws for the edge knobs. We're not leaning over that much because we're not doing a whole lot of pure ice riding on them. On trails mostly.
Thanks for sharing it!
My pleasure.
Hey Trent. lol...this just popped up in my feed. These mind reading algorithms are spooky as shit.... I just got done 'screwing' my tires.... I knew of this method, which is much more labor intensive, but likely last longer then how I did it.... I did mine with the tires on the bike....and got a 1000 pc bucket of #6 slotted hex head sheet metal screws..3/8" long... I just screwed them down into the knobs...4 in each center, and then 2 in all the other knobs... Went out, although as Murphy is always screwing with me, most of the ice/snow melted.... but the screws held up and in on asphalt getting to some mud/dirt....did REALLY good there, and then I found some ice/slush....again, did really well. I am looking forward to trying them in much more snow and ice. :) BUT....$30, and 2 hours....not a big deal. And they are fun to drift on the asphalt too. Be well.
Yup, they're a great way to go to get a feel for it! Because they're not hardened, they'll wear out fairly quickly if you do much dirt and rocks along with the snow/ice. I've also found that they can rip put fairly easily depending on the hardness of your tire's rubber. And once the snow is looser and deeper, the longer spikes do give some additional traction.
I now have a set with the commercial long carbide studs and they seem to work quite well.
Do you know how well these work with Tubliss? I might do this...
I haven't presonally tried these with Tubliss, but I assume they would work great since you don't have to worry about the screw heads puncturing a tube and therefore may be able to eliminate the liner. If you do put a liner in, I'm guessing the already difficult task of mounting a tubliss would increase because the liner takes up some of the volume of the tire.
Without doing outside knobbies, do you slide out leaning hard on ice?
These types of spikes have less grip on ice than full-on competitive ice-racing They are made more for trail riding where the longer spikes help in the less consolidated snow and where you would never want to wear out $500 ice racing tires on the rocks and dirt. They start drifting before you get far enough over to get onto the side knobs. (That's fun too) But by the time you got far enough over to get on the side knobs, you'd already be drifting enough that you wouldn't want to go over farther. :-)
Is it super easy to power slide on the ice like that? As opposed to hard pack dirt with knobbies? It looks easy but I know some guys can make difficult things look easy....just wondering
Yes, it is fairly easy, especially if there's a bit of snow on the ice. But you do have to watch out for cracks and other inconsistencies that will throw you.
Hey! real soon we will have snow but can normal wood screws work on a little 70cc 4 stroke pit bike? And we have an pretty hard compound tire but it is just pretty much fully slick on the middle of the tire. So would it work with spacer in the middle. 🤔
We've found that wood screws will tear out fairly easily. We avoid them because they don't last long and leave wood screws on the trails that could puncture tires later. If you look up the commercial screw-in studs, you'll see that the thread is more like an auger or corkscrew so that it holds them in the rubber.
@@CamGuerilla So we have to use cement screws then. Thanks for the information 👍
I like but do you dual sport these tires at all? I love the idea and they look like they will not rip out just wondering if you have hit the pavement at all on them? My local trails are not close to me maybe 30 min road ride. I love my single track but well road is required to get there and looking for a solution
You'll definitely want to stay off the pavement with these or any other studded tire that has long enough studs to be useful on the trails. They'll wear out too quickly. Trailering is the way to go.
@@wandurolife Thanks. I think I still might have to try this lol or maybe makes some full chains lol.
@@imridingwithstoopidohwaiti3948 Give it a shot!
How have the studs held up since the making of this video?
Hi Samuel. on the rears, we get a season out of them. About 20 rides or more. Then we just finish them off by riding on the dirt and mud in the spring until the snow and ice is all gone. The fronts get 2-3 seasons.
What kind of lift is that with the Lotus on it? I am thinking of getting one. Is that 4 post?
Yes, 4-post. Not sure of the brand. My brother-in-law's setup.
I’m considering doing this to for my V11 Unicycle but I don’t think everything you’re doing here is going to fit inside my wheel case so I got more work to do. But that tire looks knobby enough for me.
Intersting application. I would consider using the commercial carbide tipped grip studs.
Hey Ed, They do well on pure ice, but not as well as ice screws. I have a video coming up soon from a ride we did down a frozen river with some bare ice patches. By the way, I was not able to reply directly to your comment. You can change that by following the instructions in the following video... ruclips.net/video/u9YSMUYvJyA/видео.html
Would you think those screws are to big for a crf 80?
hmmm, hard to tell, I think the limiting factor would be how close the rear tire gets to the front of the rear swingarm. If there's not enough room, the screws could dig into the swingarm.
Cut an older worn out bike tire and grind down the knobs and get some thin flexible metal like they use in a measuring tape or something and use contact cenlment or an apoxy resin n stick the metal between the 2 n glue it down that should protect it pretty well if not perm.
Similar to what they do with ice racing tires. They use a street bike tire and cut off the sidewalls and then the ice racing screws go part way into the inner tire. Different than the concrete screw system because the screw the screws in from the outside. Then use a bicycle tube inside it all to hold air pressure. Problem is the more weight you have in the tire, the less nimble it is for trail riding. And the gyroscopic force of the heavier tire also becomes a problem as soon as you increase your speed.
Great video, but how do you think they,d handle pure ice, no snow on top? Thanks
+Ed koch Splotch crotch They're still good on ice, but not as good as my ice racing tires.
+Wanduro thanks, make some several months ago hopefully get to use them this winter
Excellent. Let us know how it goes! We've already been out this year on spikes with a guy filming us from a drone. I think you'll love them. We went with thicker liners inside the tires this year. I'm using 1/4 inch thick rubber floor mat.
Will this work on hole shot atv tires ?
No idea. I imagine if the ATV tires are stiff enough to hold the spkes out straight then it should work.
Fantastic fun
Opens up a whole new world!
I know this is years late but do you have a suggestion for dual sport tire on snowy streets? Studs are legal here.
Hey, no problem. I would go with something like grip studs. carbide tipped with a corkscrew-like thing that keeps them in the tires. The shorter ones are better for streets as the longer ones would be squirrely to ride on.
Here are links to Amazon Canada and Amazon US versions so you know what I mean.
amazon Canada link: amzn.to/3EQoap0
amazon US link: amzn.to/3lY7LY7
(those are affiliate links btw)
Don't get the ones with a normal screw thread as they rip out easily.
In any case, make sure that your tire rubber is thick enough so that the corkscrew part does not penetrate into where the tube is. The shorter ones that I linked to above also have a shorter corkscrew so they should not be a problem.
@@wandurolife awesome response, thanks. Would a knobby be better or a more road oriented tire? I was thinking the knobs would paddle better. Like sand
@@d3us3xmach1na5 Go for a knobby. Better snow grip plus thicker rubber to hold the studs.
Can anybody recomend tires to put these in? front and rear. Front Tire: 80/100X21 Rear Tire: 110/100X18
cmon THINK ... you dont have to destroy an expensive Yoga Mat, there are many other solutions. Make a metal stripe for example first, after use some old innertube to protect it or Gorilla tape. there are always other good solutions.
however, GREAT IDEA like i said 3 years ago :D :D
Thanks for the comment! Although they're actually quite cheap, we learned that yoga mats get compressed by the pressure of the inner tube and end up offering little protection. The metal strip idea is interesting. The problem is that the inside of the tire is curved between the sidewalls, so the metal strip would have to be shaped to curve two ways. Or you could put a flat metal strip in with some sort of filler behind it. Either way, it would be a lot of work. What we ended up doing was using 1/4" rubber floor mat. It worked brilliantly. There's a new video linked in the description that describes this.
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@@wandurolife thx for answer, i thought about a very thin metal like they are using for beercans, but its absolutely no problem to shape a 0,4mm Titaniumstripe used on roofer works for rain drainage systems in shape ;) usual the material is 0,7mm but there is thinner one too and with an old innertube and some glue or tape it should work fine and could made easy.
have a great new year and ride safe
cheers from Thailand, not much snow here ;)
@@phuketbungalowinfo2757 maybe someone who reads this will try it and report back! You may be interested in a little video I made on a trip to Thailand in 2019. It's on my other channel at ruclips.net/video/S-Jwk34W9Yg/видео.html
@@wandurolife will definately check it ;)
how long does it last?
About 1 season for the rear. 2 seasons for the front. 10-15 day-long rides with 450cc bikes over varied terrain. dirt, rocks, snow, ice.
How many seasons did you get out of this it's been a few years now
What?
Hi Brian. I normally get 1 season out of the rears. That's about 15 day-rides on mixed snow, ice, dirt and rocks. Fronts can last up to 2 seasons. In the spring I just finish wearing out the rears as the snow melts and there are still icey patches on the trails.
I'm gonna do this when I get new tires but mines are almost brand new so it'll take for ever to wear out lol.
We go to the discard pile at the local motorcycle shops. There's usually some good used dirt bike tires there.
What size are the nuts?
Thank you so much
1/4-20 nuts. They are cross-threaded onto the screws.
@@wandurolife Thank you so much have a blessed day
@@Watersedgeministry You're welcome. I hope it works for you!
pool noodles cheaper than camping mat, you can easily slice pool noodles
Will these ruin your tires
yep. Use used tires. Once you've got the screws in them, it's a pain to take them out. So once the screws are worn down, you need to throw out the tire.
can i have the nuts info what size they are and like that? :)
+Shift609 :3 check out the new video at www.wanduro.com/icenew
then nuts are 1/4-20 size.
+Wanduro
Those are very lovely nuts. I really have to sit back and admire them.
+Mineav :-)
Wanduro I used flanged nuts so that I don't have a problem starting them. No pliers necessary. Just push on the nut with a deep socket wrench. I also considering a washer underneath each screw if I end up ripping any screws out. Great video with a great and detailed description on all screw and nut sizes, etc.
@@arturcuryllo5832 Great idea! And thanks for the props.
And that was genius
Hope it helped!
well looks like i got a winter project lol
Haha,,, sorry man.
Kokanee! Must be from BC
heheh... yup.
Nitro Mousse inside the tire. $100 USD. Should work mint
That'd what snow mobiles are for.
True dat. :-)
could just use a moose airless tire insert
+Brian Hunt True. That would solve the tube puncturing problem.
i bet a can of bed linner would work great too then it wont move around
interesting idea...
Just use bib mousses instead of inter tubes
Yup, another way to solve the problem.
⚠️⚠️😀😀POWER. 4:59.SLIDE 😃😃⚠️⚠️
the consistency of the snow and ice make it much easier.
I've heard ppl run tennis balls that could work I'd think...
Get Some they run no tube just fill the tire with tennis balls instead... they r pressurized so if u run them all the way around the tire it should support the weight of the bike...
something to think about...
@@dopesquatch wow that sounds awesome.
Why so much work; just screw 60 mm long wood screws from the outside in and the cups off with 1 mm disc. 2,5 h and ready and you can drive for 1.5 years without the tires wearing out
We've tried the wood screw method on a few different tires. They are definitely less work, but we've found that they do not work as well as the concrete screws. If you're riding exclusively on ice they're OK, but if you're riding on a mix of dirt, snow, ice and rocks, they lose their edges very quickly and no longer provide adequate grip. They also tend to rip out of the tires in this type of terrain. We would typically lose 10 to 20 screws in a day of riding. Also, the extra length of the concrete screws provides better grip in fresh and loosely compacted snow. I also have a set of professionally built ice racing tires from Marcel Fournier in Quebec. They use a similar system to what you're suggesting except that the screw heads are hardened to last longer and shaped to give the best grip on ice. They are long as well, but they are not cut off inside the tire. Instead, they use the full length but add a street bike tire with the sidewalls removed inside the dirt bike tire. This gives an extra 2cm of rubber that the screw can bite into before poking into the tube. It solves the problem of the screws pulling out of the tire and prevents them from flexing too much during acceleration, cornering and braking. They need to be treated with the utmost care to preserve their sharpness. They never touch anything except the ice and wooden ramps/trailers. They even get wrapped in a special protective sheath as soon as the ride is done. At around $400/tire it's worth keeping them in shape as long as possible!
awesome . but takes a lot of time (((
+iNeverWillSurrender We've got it down to about 35 minutes per tire.
That still looks extremely dangerous. You have no idea of what is below the all-white snow.
Yup sometimes there are surprises, but that would apply to snowmobiling as well and there are thousands of people who snowmobile.
You copied zackatk2
Another video for snow tire studding awareness . Except we should do warnings cause they are deadly lol
you guys are waking the poor animals from winter sleep .... but what do you care.
Are you serious? Lol... You sound like one of those people that just HATES to see other people have fun. Find any reason to hate them for it. Jealous lil bitch!! Gtfo