Loved the video. Quality of filming and narration excellent. I also fear I'll never do the procedure but I've spent an enjoyable 20 odd minutes watching you do it. Well done
Wow. Well done. I’ve learnt about motors by playing with 1200, 1300, 1500 and 1600sp and tp Volkswagen engines. There seems to be quite a lot of similarities. After watching this I think I’d have the confidence to have a go. Quite a few tools there I don’t have but I’m sure could get. Love the sound and I just wanted to comment and complement your narration, filming and methodical sequences. No opinion. No fluff. Just good information. Well done. Have subbed. ✅
Great video! With the addition of the 4 needed tools from JIM'S I'm going to do this to my Road King,just waiting for my S&S cam plate and oil pump,and cams to get here, this spring I'm going to do the 95 big bore kit from S&S
Glad i saw this. Was going to gear drive. Now i wont cuz of possible runout. Think i'll get more miles by upgrade to the hydraulic tensioners. I use synthetic oil all 3 holes. Thanks great vid!
Year old question but the answer is to clamp a very fine flat file in a vise, gently spread the ring around the file and holding it near the file, one hand each side, push so the file us coming into the ring. Just guide with your fingers, don't squeeze the ring ends to the file. Then spread the ring, reposition and repeat. Do not pull the ring back on the file. Any coating on the ring's sealing surface can be chipped away.
Any chance you could do a 883 to 1250 S&S conversion, with cams? I trust your judgement and knowledge. If I could get a complete set of part numbers, I'd order them off of J&P and have them sent over to me. Great job Paulie
I remember doing the same on a 2003 fxsti but also did the heads Ported , milled and cc reduce to 72 9.5 to 1 cp pistons ft It will pull in any gear with a baker dd6 Might build another soon since I have time
I am changing the exhaust Thursday and doing another dyno pull. The video will be out starting with baseline run and will include a run where the exhaust on the bike is used as well as when the clutch started slipping. New clutch, new tune, and new Thunderheader should make good numbers. Stay tuned for the new video early April.
How come S&S recommended that the bottom end be welded , if you went higher than a 106 kit ? And you just installed a 110 kit , to a 96 inch engine ???
Great vid but why wouldn't you upgrade to gear drive? Doesn't make a lot of sense to put all that effort in and keep the crappy cam tensioner and chain.
The kit is available with gear drive or hydraulic tensioners. These tensioners are not prone to the failure of the early twin cam spring type tensioners.
Hydraulic tensioners started in 2007. While not as perfect as gear drive, this is a big improvement over the previous spring type. I pulled mine out to check at 68,000 miles and were still just like when I had installed them. The problem with the twin cam is the tolerances aren't the greatest and if you have too much runout then you can't use gear drive. Being that I did not have the bike apart when the kit was ordered, we went with chain to prevent having to order other parts if the runout was too much.
Crank runout could wipe out the gears in a hurry is you aren't within the proper gear drive specs. The way Harley allows a wide variance in the tolerance means you'll probably need to pull the flywheels and have them trued or run the S&S 3 piece flywheel assembly. Chain drive allows for more runout which is why Harley went that way in the first place. Costs them a lot less money to just press a bottom end together than the older style of bolting the wheels together. I'd rather just replace the flywheels and go to a stroker setup for a 124 ci mill and get the Timken bearing install plus get the case bored for larger cylinders. All about bushel baskets of cash and how fast you wanna go.
@@jpcycles would be nice if there a was a table which let you know what kind of run out to expect with what ever amount of miles your engine currently has.
See more at Countersteer
www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?Weekend_Wrenching:_How_to_Install_an_SandS_Cycle_Power_Package&Wko5kyepQM
Loved the video. Quality of filming and narration excellent. I also fear I'll never do the procedure but I've spent an enjoyable 20 odd minutes watching you do it. Well done
Wow. Well done. I’ve learnt about motors by playing with 1200, 1300, 1500 and 1600sp and tp Volkswagen engines. There seems to be quite a lot of similarities. After watching this I think I’d have the confidence to have a go. Quite a few tools there I don’t have but I’m sure could get. Love the sound and I just wanted to comment and complement your narration, filming and methodical sequences. No opinion. No fluff. Just good information. Well done.
Have subbed. ✅
Pauly, you make it look easy, man. Great tips and great video!
Angel, one of these days your gonna wake up and realize your becoming a very good mechanic/machinist under papas tut tutoring. 😁
What about tuning? I would think it should at least have a new canned map downloaded before firing it up?
Starting a 110 BigBore kit tomorrow on my 103 Harley-Davidson, Awesome video Thanks!!!
I got the 100" Power package very happy with S&S well worth it
Did you also have to upgrade your throttle body or did you keep the same throttle body, thanks
Great video! With the addition of the 4 needed tools from JIM'S I'm going to do this to my Road King,just waiting for my S&S cam plate and oil pump,and cams to get here, this spring I'm going to do the 95 big bore kit from S&S
I'll never do this either, but it great to now the work involved. Thanks heaps JP Cycles
Man u make that look easy, i would nvr ever try that!
You think this looks tough? Try working on a modern automobile engine.
Glad i saw this. Was going to gear drive. Now i wont cuz of possible runout. Think i'll get more miles by upgrade to the hydraulic tensioners. I use synthetic oil all 3 holes. Thanks great vid!
Hydraulic is best!
Thanks guys 🙏
Amazing tutorial.
Beast mode
Tuning? Was that not addressed for a reason? Should a dyno tune be performed?
Awesome, mate.
I would love to put in a big bore kit and new cams on my 2019 roadglide But I’m no tech hahah good job though
Yeah man, I just bit the bullet and paid to get the bigger bore
Do you have part #'s for Special Jim's tools ? Like piston ring Clamp and ring vice file
Was there any specific tune you put on it?
Killer bike man
Great video !
Nice vids man I love you use dynas I have a 2017 dyna .i want to soon put 583 cams in
Did you mention about the ECM need re-programming?
Shaochieh Young on that carbureted bike? Lol
Why use adjustable push rods if you had the motor apart, I'd rather have solid. This is a great video though.
does the fuel injection need to be tuned?
this was very good. not something I would attempt though lol. good job
Kool good job fellas!!!!
How does one grind down the piston rings if one does not have a fancy table top grinding wheel?
Year old question but the answer is to clamp a very fine flat file in a vise, gently spread the ring around the file and holding it near the file, one hand each side, push so the file us coming into the ring. Just guide with your fingers, don't squeeze the ring ends to the file. Then spread the ring, reposition and repeat. Do not pull the ring back on the file. Any coating on the ring's sealing surface can be chipped away.
Any chance you could do a 883 to 1250 S&S conversion, with cams? I trust your judgement and knowledge. If I could get a complete set of part numbers, I'd order them off of J&P and have them sent over to me. Great job Paulie
The S&S Hooligan kit is what I would suggest. There is a possibility of a video on this in the near future.www.jpcycles.com/product/832-928
Do you know if S&S sells complete 1200 heads that will work with the 1250 conversion kit?
I remember doing the same on a 2003 fxsti but also did the heads
Ported , milled and cc reduce to 72
9.5 to 1 cp pistons ft
It will pull in any gear with a baker dd6
Might build another soon since I have time
Impressive !
Update on the Dyno results? Also, awesome store at destination Daytona!
I am changing the exhaust Thursday and doing another dyno pull. The video will be out starting with baseline run and will include a run where the exhaust on the bike is used as well as when the clutch started slipping. New clutch, new tune, and new Thunderheader should make good numbers. Stay tuned for the new video early April.
Clean install!
How come S&S recommended that the bottom end be welded , if you went higher than a 106 kit ? And you just installed a 110 kit , to a 96 inch engine ???
This is a new kit from S&S made to be a bolt on kit with no machining necessary.
98" big bore,and 89cc heads. 583 easy start cams. I need a map. I have the power vision. Fuel moto doesn't have an exact map.
Where is the rest of the series
All of our Weekend Wrenching Video can be found here ruclips.net/user/jpcycles2playlists?view_as=subscriber
all of that work and kept the chains.....
Thats the prob with stuff like this, its one thing after another, a worm hole of spending more and more money.
Great vid but why wouldn't you upgrade to gear drive? Doesn't make a lot of sense to put all that effort in and keep the crappy cam tensioner and chain.
The kit is available with gear drive or hydraulic tensioners. These tensioners are not prone to the failure of the early twin cam spring type tensioners.
So what year did Harley rectify this issue?
Hydraulic tensioners started in 2007. While not as perfect as gear drive, this is a big improvement over the previous spring type. I pulled mine out to check at 68,000 miles and were still just like when I had installed them. The problem with the twin cam is the tolerances aren't the greatest and if you have too much runout then you can't use gear drive. Being that I did not have the bike apart when the kit was ordered, we went with chain to prevent having to order other parts if the runout was too much.
Crank runout could wipe out the gears in a hurry is you aren't within the proper gear drive specs. The way Harley allows a wide variance in the tolerance means you'll probably need to pull the flywheels and have them trued or run the S&S 3 piece flywheel assembly. Chain drive allows for more runout which is why Harley went that way in the first place. Costs them a lot less money to just press a bottom end together than the older style of bolting the wheels together. I'd rather just replace the flywheels and go to a stroker setup for a 124 ci mill and get the Timken bearing install plus get the case bored for larger cylinders. All about bushel baskets of cash and how fast you wanna go.
@@jpcycles would be nice if there a
was a table which let you know what kind of run out to expect with what ever amount of miles your engine currently has.
I never seen such a dirty bike
It really is a type of brain surgery...
There ripoff got parts got charged twice have not got 285 dollers back tired to contact no massages nothing very poor never again
Shutbup crybaby
Not even a quick take off or ride of before and after, lame.
click bait!