Dormer Construction basics The wall Frames
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2022
- In this video about Dormer construction basics I build the simple dormer wall frames that will support the roof rafters and ceiling joists
Part of The Big Build Series
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I work in architecture, but I am also fairly decent hobby woodworker. I always find your videos really informative and interesting. Keep up the excellent work
Fantastic as normal Robin. Really hope there is a part 2 to these Dormers, love it so far.......
Yes mate there are a couple more to follow
Great work! I love that enclosure around your entire project!
Always a pleasure to watch
Lovely work as always.. You make everything look easy!!
That is black magic you are a awesome carpenter mate 🏴
Great video again ,well done .
Lovely work Robin, I so enjoy watching your videos, it’s your thoroughness & attention to the smallest detail means you excel from doing a just a good job to doing the very best job money can buy, obviously this comes from your years in the business & the shoddy corner cuttings you’ve witnessed, fair play to you mate. Quick question, I don’t understand why dormas are always set back from the external wall, I imagine walking into that attic space & walking into a dorma where a single piece of glass is sitting right on top the exterior wall.
Can't say enough how wonderful this channel is and the intro .... The work is always stellar and each video is full of your great tips and the worksite is clean and cinematic. Hope you guys are having a glorious weekend!!
Really like the over lap on the header that picks the side up to, as always lovely work mate true craftsman 👍💪🏼
Hi Robin, when we do our dormers we make everything up flat on the floor, so much quicker building the front including the gable in one panel and make the cheeks up including the osb/plywood.
That is a technique that also adopt where we can, its super simple and quick!! nice one mate
Great video,thanks
Great job mate. At the end it almost looked like a practical interview for ikea ha ha.
Work smarter, not harder. Great ethos 👍
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Robin, Thanks for the wonderful videos. I have learnt a lot through your videos. I have one question please. How much allowance do I need to provide for lead height above window cill? Thanks
Super 👍
What's your preference for insulating the dormer cheeks. They always look to be a bit of a weak spot insulation wise?
Another great video keep it up
@@stantheman7467 hi Stan sin35÷tan45=second function tan =29.8° miter cos35÷tan45= second function tan=39.32 edge bevel
@@brianl5159 Hi Brian, would just like to ask you a question, because my old Carpentry Teacher was a master at drawing roof geometry on the blackboard many years ago, including the backing bevels etc, and we were just told to copy it down. Lately I’ve been looking at one of my old geometry drawings of a 40 degree pitched Hip roof, and even after all these years I’m wondering is the developed hip side cut angle that a lot of these type of drawings show, the correct angle when applied to the top of a square edge hip rafter or is it the correct angle when applied to the top edge of a backed Hip? If you have a formula for the Bevel when it’s applied to the top of a backed hip I would be interested to know!
Hi Stan hip edge bevel formula cos hip pitch angle ÷ tan plan angle = second function tan = . if you set the circular saw to the plan angle and cut along the plumb cut line that will give you the required bevel squared our backed
@@brianl5159 Yes good stuff Brian! I’m familiar with the practical ways, and I like to play about with some of the maths and I’ve just noticed that the side cut angle when the hip is Backed is basically the same angle as the sheathing angle or 90 degrees - the sheathing angle and of course that’s the same as the Jack Rafter side cut. But thanks again and all the very best to you!
@@stantheman7467 Stan one trig formula I use a lot to find the hip pitch angle if I only have the main pitch of the roof is tan(40)×sin(45)=second function tan=30.68° that formula is true for equal and unequal pitches the 45° is the plan angle . have a good day
Great Detailed description 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Yesss
You're getting the hang of it.
Exquisite…
So clean it looks like a tv studio!?
Thats the way I like it!!!
Not enough instructions on dormer forming, headpieces overhanging, studding of sides, was all on fast forward😊
The video could have been more instructive. But always a joy to watch whatever you do 👍
Hi Robin, I'm constructing dormer cheeks by looking at your videos. I noticed that you put a little piece of vertical wood Next to the left first cheek stud @2:39 into your video. is that a permanent piece of wood that you leave there or is it just a temporary piece of wood to help you align second stud vertically? Thank you
I leave that there to space of the stud to carry the internal plasterboard corner and also fix the return window stud too
Thank you. I have piteched my own roof by learning from your channel and now working on dormers. (I hope my house will stand because the real work is in accurate measurments) I also found that your tip of using timber instead of tape is easier.
In what universe do they erect a temporary cover over the entire building for construction?
Is that standard practice? Is that a code requirement? How much does that add to the cost of building a house?
It's a big thing here in the UK to temporary cover the building
@@ukconstruction I see the advantages, it should be a requirement to prevent water damage. What is a typical cost for the rental?
This was about 10k
Im interested in seeing how u build a stairway
Look at the staircase videos in the channel
You built a house indoors?
Excellent video although I can't help but think you sound just like Steve Mould (another RUclips content creator)
Have to agree with Liam McNutty. Unusually short on detail. Still the best chippie channel though....
👍🇮🇪☘️👏🤟
🎉 P-R-O-M-O-S-M.
Screws? Really? I mean bad enough they use fake 16d nails which are .131 nails 3-1/4" long, now screws are accepted? We only use 16d and true 16d .161 3-1/2" nails which only a small number of nailers can shoot oddly.
It's all about the types of screw, I use a construction screw that will perform as well as any nail, onto the nail thickness and length issue that you mention, all nails should be the size and type suitable to do the task, we always try to use a heavy duty galvanised nail in our nailers (gas and 18v) for structural timberwork these have been tested thoroughly by the likes of Paslode in years of development and I trust them!! Have a great weekend mate
@@ukconstruction Not a fan of screws for framing and never will be. Also from my experience I feel that galvanized nails are extremely dangerous because of their slickness. Although it seems that I'm heckling you I honestly am not. Do a test yourself. Shoot a regular framing nail anchoring two large pieces of lumber then hammer them apart. Next shoot a galvanized nail the same way, you'll find that with almost no effort you're able to break apart the lumber that was anchored using the galvanized nails. It's scary to think how easy it would be to lift off a roof during extremely windy conditions when using galvanized nails. Just my opinion. Cheers.
You gotta be kidding me
Why
@@ukconstruction horrible video
Too clevet by far.guab
He talks to much, (nearly 50% of the video) and then shows the building process on a
time laps to fast to appreciate the work.
Try my next video, where I hardly talk and it is over 40 minutes!!