Pretty well perfect Jen! I can't think of a single suggestion for how you could be making these vids any better. Looking forward to the next instalment..
That video is coming! It will be after the machine is all apart, cleaned and we are reassembling. it may take a bit to get there but we will get there. :)
Try rubbing the tension disks on PHOTOCOPY PAPER there is enough abrasion/grit to polish and if you do it on a sheet of glass then it will be flat. If the disks are in poor condition add some Brasso or car paint polish to the paper. Hope it helps On some of my 100y+ machines there is a groove in my disks where the cotton went, they must never have moved the disks in all the time the machine was used. [Off topic] you reminded me of one of my old Singer machines the disk shape used to be shaped more like a lid rather than the more modern dish shaped disks; this caused the new type to rub on the takeup spring however adding a thin washer behind the "new dish type disks" solved that - note the machines are manual thumb tension release. Great video All the best to all
Thank you for the tips! I haven't tried that method, I usually use sanding paper up to 7000 grit to polish them, but I will try out the photocopy paper method.
@@SewingMachineRehab You will know if it is polishing if you use one of your previously sanded disks and try polishing that it should leave dark marks on the paper as it removes a bit of steel, very much like a leather strop does when sharpening a woodworking chisel. I just had a quick search "photocopy paper sanding" and it suggested about 7000 grit. I am not sure how shiny the disks should be since it is meant to be a friction device. Funny things off topic again On a Wheeler Wilson machine I have to wrap the cotton "all the way around the disks" since they are not separate disks, the disks act more like a friction pully wheel, that threw me a curve when I first used a WW9 machine. The Jones VS or Cylinder Shuttle machine don't have a take up spring and it seems they never did. :-)) the problem with these old sewing machines it they will only last about 100y if you do not oil them and a heck of a lot longer if you do. ;-))
Hello! Yes, I am. I have a couple 301's and a Featherweight in the works. Also, at the end of the 99 series the late 99 will be fore sale. Sometimes it is hard to find time to work on my own machines but if I get a custom order then I move it onto the bench. If you are looking for something in particular let me know! jen@sewingmachinerehab.com
thanks, I need a source for the take up spring. the ones I ordered are slightly too small and will not go over the shaft for proper fit. The part number that was sent to me was 32758. Help
Hi! I will have to look back and see if I missed filming a step. There were a few parts that I went ahead and removed off camera that weren’t 100% necessary to remove and were a little more difficult and could end up being damaged in the process. Sometimes if a part doesn’t need to be removed to complete a proper restoration and it is a risky part to remove, I won’t show it because I would never want anyone to ruin their machine by following my instructions. More than likely that is the case with the parts you noticed. I will double check though to see if I missed a step and when reassembly happens I will talk about how I removed anything additional. I hope that helps!
Hi! They are coming, I wish I could get them out faster because I know that some are waiting for them. I am a perfectionist and it slows me down sometimes. To think I thought I would finish the series before 2024...I may have been a little unrealistic. But, they are coming, I promise!
Hi! I haven’t ever worked on that model and after a quick look around I couldn’t find much information on it. It is more of a modern machine and from what I can tell, a little more difficult to work on. You would need to figure out how to take the nose cover off and get a look inside. There may be a screw you can tighten or something may just be broken. I wish I could help but I didn’t have any luck in my searching. It might be best to take the machine to a repair center if you can. Good luck!
Pretty well perfect Jen! I can't think of a single suggestion for how you could be making these vids any better. Looking forward to the next instalment..
Thank you! If only I could get the videos out faster! Just need a housekeeper and a cook haha!
Nicely done, as always!
Thanks Bob!
Great video, you do a wonderful job of explaining
Thank you!
I would love to see one on setting the timing
That video is coming! It will be after the machine is all apart, cleaned and we are reassembling. it may take a bit to get there but we will get there. :)
I’ve pulled mine apart. Now is there a video to put it back together? Cheers
They are filmed, just editing them as I can. Hoping to have the next one up very soon!
Try rubbing the tension disks on PHOTOCOPY PAPER there is enough abrasion/grit to polish and if you do it on a sheet of glass then it will be flat.
If the disks are in poor condition add some Brasso or car paint polish to the paper.
Hope it helps
On some of my 100y+ machines there is a groove in my disks where the cotton went, they must never have moved the disks in all the time the machine was used.
[Off topic] you reminded me of one of my old Singer machines the disk shape used to be shaped more like a lid rather than the more modern dish shaped disks; this caused the new type to rub on the takeup spring however adding a thin washer behind the "new dish type disks" solved that - note the machines are manual thumb tension release.
Great video
All the best to all
Thank you for the tips! I haven't tried that method, I usually use sanding paper up to 7000 grit to polish them, but I will try out the photocopy paper method.
@@SewingMachineRehab You will know if it is polishing if you use one of your previously sanded disks and try polishing that it should leave dark marks on the paper as it removes a bit of steel, very much like a leather strop does when sharpening a woodworking chisel.
I just had a quick search "photocopy paper sanding" and it suggested about 7000 grit. I am not sure how shiny the disks should be since it is meant to be a friction device.
Funny things off topic again
On a Wheeler Wilson machine I have to wrap the cotton "all the way around the disks" since they are not separate disks, the disks act more like a friction pully wheel, that threw me a curve when I first used a WW9 machine.
The Jones VS or Cylinder Shuttle machine don't have a take up spring and it seems they never did.
:-)) the problem with these old sewing machines it they will only last about 100y if you do not oil them and a heck of a lot longer if you do. ;-))
This is very helpful, but. Is there a reassembly video in the works?
Hi! Yes, they are in the works! Next video should be up tomorrow! Thank you for your patience!
Thank you so much! Are you still selling machines? I don't see inventory on your Etsy shop or website. Best.
Hello! Yes, I am. I have a couple 301's and a Featherweight in the works. Also, at the end of the 99 series the late 99 will be fore sale. Sometimes it is hard to find time to work on my own machines but if I get a custom order then I move it onto the bench. If you are looking for something in particular let me know! jen@sewingmachinerehab.com
thanks, I need a source for the take up spring. the ones I ordered are slightly too small and will not go over the shaft for proper fit. The part number that was sent to me was 32758. Help
I worked with this smaller spring and found to install into disasembled barrow first then add gear tighten and start assembly ..it works now.
Hi! So, are you ok now with the spring? Let me know, I can try to find my source for you and post it here!
@@SewingMachineRehab yes my new spring works now.
When did you take out the other levers inside the thred take up system?
Hi! I will have to look back and see if I missed filming a step. There were a few parts that I went ahead and removed off camera that weren’t 100% necessary to remove and were a little more difficult and could end up being damaged in the process. Sometimes if a part doesn’t need to be removed to complete a proper restoration and it is a risky part to remove, I won’t show it because I would never want anyone to ruin their machine by following my instructions. More than likely that is the case with the parts you noticed. I will double check though to see if I missed a step and when reassembly happens I will talk about how I removed anything additional. I hope that helps!
how do you install it back in?
I will hopefully have that video out soon, working on the editing now. Can't wait to share!
Where are the remaining videos after removing the tension assembly on a late model? TIA
Hi! They are coming, I wish I could get them out faster because I know that some are waiting for them. I am a perfectionist and it slows me down sometimes. To think I thought I would finish the series before 2024...I may have been a little unrealistic. But, they are coming, I promise!
I have a singer 9110 and the needle bar is wobbly as in i can push it back and forth how can i tighten it
Hi! I haven’t ever worked on that model and after a quick look around I couldn’t find much information on it. It is more of a modern machine and from what I can tell, a little more difficult to work on. You would need to figure out how to take the nose cover off and get a look inside. There may be a screw you can tighten or something may just be broken. I wish I could help but I didn’t have any luck in my searching. It might be best to take the machine to a repair center if you can. Good luck!
@SewingMachineRehab ok thank you for responding