Way back in the 80’s when I went to school, we were taught by the instructors to use a piece of rubber vacuum tubing placed over the end of spark plug if we couldn’t start by hand. Prevented the possibility of cross threading . Great video as usual. Thanx
Cannot beat your videos for detailed information. You just saved me several hundred dollars and the gratification that it’s done right. I found that the shop I paid a not long ago did not change the gasket around one of the spark plug wells and it was the leaker. Obvious since their gaskets were blue and the oem was black and brittle. I don’t have any mechanics I can trust anymore. If you want it done right , watch Makulocos video and do it yourself !
I just bought a used Ford Escape XLS 2.5 liter, 4 cylinder and I really appreciate your expertise. Every thing you said makes a lot of sense, especially using the correct tools for the job. Thanks again.
anyone out there that has a question about there car...ask this guy...I was in the business many years before I switched to bathroom remodeling and I can tell you for a fact that he is the most HONEST mechanic I have yet to not meet...lol
Great video! Considering doing this myself with some replacement NGK or Motorcraft plugs. I had a local mechanic I trust replace my plugs on my 2006 Ford Escape (2.3L 4x4 with 242k miles) a few thousand miles ago; used Autolite iridiums from Napa. I just recently started noticing the slightest amount of...hard to describe, but very minute loss of power or similar while cruising at speed on the highway-no indications on the tach or speed, just a feeling of slight slip. I'm not sure if the old Escape is starting to head down the path of failure, or if it is just the coils-they are likely the original. My mechanic found the valve cover gasket leaking when he did the plugs and fixed that too (110k miles since I had it fixed doing the plugs the first time back in 2011 after I bought it used). I would love to keep this car going towards 300k: it's been the most faithful vehicle I've ever owned. I do the oil changes myself every 3-5k with full synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter, but fell behind on the tranny drain and replace...went 70k between doing so. Gradually doing the drain and replace over several thousand miles to try to ease the old car into newer tranny fluid.
Thanks for the great video Brian! I like how you show how to blast out all the dust and debris with the compressed air I've been doing it that way too since day one. I work at a shop and the boyz make fun of me for doing those little things but it's those important steps that make a spark plugs change successful!
2:27 Don’t forget that when pulling the coils out, the boots may stick to the valve cover. A little twisting action is all I needed to pull the coils on my 2.5.
plus one on Motorcraft plugs, I had the same experience with all my Ford's. most aftermarket plugs into got 20k before I had missfire problems related to plugs
Thanks for the video! You answered an issue I have. I put Denso Iridium TT's in my 2.5 and at first start it would idle rough and it finally went away. But I have noticed a lower MPG's. Hoping to put a new set of OEM's back in soon.
Great video, just changed my 2012 ,2.5l escape, found rusty liquid in the two center plug boot cavities, not oily and doesn't seem to be antifreeze, put in plugs and it runs fine... Any ideas? .
Two years ago I had to replace the coil in my 2009 Ranger 2.3. I was replacing the plug wires also but the sleeve at the end of one plug wire broke off and stuck on the top of the plug and that was a pain to remove. I had to use an extra long needle nose pliers to get it off. My 2011 2.3 Ranger has 193,000 miles and I’m guessing the original plugs since it had 60,000 miles when I bought it.
Did buy a Escape 2005 xlt 2.3 here in Bali, Indonesia, did found DENSO K20PR-U copper spark plugs .(just 1$ here:) Your recommended Motorcraft SP 541 are not available here. Did buy Mazda (Tribute) iridium plugs (Made by NGK).
you need to figure out a way to expand your channel with marketing...you are the best I've seen on youtube and you could be making a lot of money through advertisements if you work it right...my wife has her masters in marketing...if you ever want to talk with her let me know...she is really good...keep up the awesome vids bud...if am a mechanic too and you are spot on and then some
Just tried to replace the plugs on my son's 2012 Fusion 2.5L (just bought it used 162k) and ran into two very top rusted inner plug tubs. Outside two were fine, inside two were so rusted we couldn't get the socket to seat on the top of the plug so cleaned the coil boot and didnt mess with the plug. The rust in both inner tubs were dry so from what we could see nothing lese inside either tube was wet, so not sure if the water/coolant leak is still active. Anyone idea on what might have caused it also suggestion on getting the plugs out without creating a real mess and a more expensive repair. Not looking to pull the head off or crazy like that.
I'm curious why you specifically recommend Nickel based anti-seize lube. Why not Aluminum or Copper based? Permatex anti-seize products are labelled with the following recommendations/suggested applications: Permatex Cu - Spark plug threads installed in aluminum Permatex Al - Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts; Permatex Ni - Suggested applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies; For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys They don't mention spark plugs for the Nickel based lube. Can you explain why you recommend the Ni and not Al or Cu. Thank you.
Brian, I just bought a 2011 2.5 with 58kmi. All four plugs are seized to the point where I can't even turn them a quarter turn. I've soaked with penetrant and carb choke cleaner for days, but still no luck. Any tips or advice on how to overcome this without pulling out the threads? Thanks.
Now that is just wild are you using a 1/2 ratchet? These plugs have very long threads so lots of area to gum up. Besides soaking them the only thing I can think of is inductive heat.
1/2 ratchet? No, I'm using my standard 3/8 because it feels like the threads are being torn out with every mm I turn them! lol Plus they all make that sickening squeaking sound. In all my years of working on cars, never seen anything like it. Thanks for the tips.
QUESTION: please, I have searched and searched but cannot seem to find one standard answer (the answers vary from .54 -. 60) What is the OEM recommended Spark Plug GAP for my Focus zx3 with a Ford 2.3L Duratec Engine? The hood was replaced from an accident so I have no engine sticker to refer to. I purchased Motorcraft SP492X that are pre-set at .54 but I don't want to install them if incorrectly gapped. Thank you
Any reason why the dielectric grease should be specifically Motorcraft? Also Isn't that an excessive amount? looks like it's covering the whole coil, I thought its not suppose to cover the resistor and mostly just apply small layer to the side walls.
+Mark the coil boots are hollow all the excess goes up into the coils spring and a light layer remains it works out perfect. You can use any dielectric grease.
I’ve noticed with Ford they cut engines displacement in half a lot. Is it just coincidence, or done on purpose for modularity? 2.0L I4 to 4.0L V6 2.3L I4 to 4.6L V8 2.5L I4 to 5.0L V8 2.7L V6 to 5.4L V8 3.0L V6 to 6.0L V8 (even though it’s diesel)
Probably because a lot of manufacturers use “square” or over square engines where the bore and stroke are similar. The 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5 are the same block and basically the same engine
I have a valve cover gasket leak and theres quite a bit oil around the spark plugs... if i replace the gasket and clean up the oil should everything be ok?
I'm trying to remove the first coil and it won't pull out as shown in your video. Yes, the bolt is removed and the engine is cold. Should I force it or what?
2010 ford focus has a miss when cruising down the road. It only happens one or two times when driving. putin new plugs and still have it. What would you look at next?
Thanks for sharing this. I was wondering, after searching, I've only found one video on the 2.3L engines on your channel. I know there are a lot of them out there so, Am I missing something in my searches? BTW, I bought a Bosch driver on your recommendation and love it. I also use the same spark plug socket set and they are excellent.
What I have found is that there is almost no info on the Escape 2008 2.3L engine any were in RUclips all they show is 6 cyl wonder why??? I need the spark plug gap for this engine and the location of the MAP sensor. :(
Love ur video! My car is 2010 Escape 2.5L. As you said, MotorCraft OEM should be NGK made. Can I just upgrade to "NGK Ruthenium HX Spark Plug - Part #90220"? Advance Auto Part says it exactly fits.
not spark plug related, but I had a CCRM smoke out (on a Thunderbird, Mustang, Taurus similar), took it apart(its riveted) and the low speed fan output pin and pad are burnt. Ran Fan actuator test and only high speed fan works, but low speed fan relay clicks and if I jumper the pin on the CCRM PCB the fan runs. Planning on resoldering. I did a current draw test on the fan direct to vbatt and low is about 9 amps high about 11. I'm wondering if the old fan could have taken out the CCRM or it may have been just bad solder on the CCRM. It was a used unit, original one had trouble powering fuel pump. Can't really get them new. I noticed the temp gauge would get a bit hotter, obvious that the high speed fan was kicking in at higher temps. The fan works fine when jumpered, but I'm thinking maybe it should be replaced.
standard auto parts has some remans, they are like $150., Reviews are bad, seems it is pot luck which version you get (some are just single speed. Then there is used, likely from a very high mileage car (no junkyards where I am). Going to rebuild mine with extra parallel wires going to the pins. Have a spare too with some good relays. The failure on mine was likely bad solder.
My Milan has 110K miles on it. Is it worth it to just go ahead and replace the coils as well as the plugs - (using all Motorcraft parts)? What would I gain? Price is not much of a consideration for me.
Stephen Dutton I would say yes, replace them all now ...a little preventative maintenance to ensure no future failures of the old parts....better fuel economy too
All 4 plugs in my 2010 Fusion Hybrid 2.5L refuse to turn at all. 106k on the car. Been soaking in PB Blaster all afternoon, no change. Using 3/8" ratchet with 5/8" gearwrench flex extension- any tips before I take it in?
Got them all out after soaking for a week in PB Blaster. Used nickel anti-seize on the new plugs. Next guy will thank me... All's well that ends well. Thanks for the video!
how we can increase motor performance for ford fusion 2010 2.5 litter by the spark plug , also what the best resistance for spark plug if we measure by multimeter .
I am a DIY mechanic and I di not have compressed air to blow out the plug holes, or the engine. Any ideas? I am thinking about using my leaf blower, but as curious in if there was anything else that could be suggested
Brady A they sell compressed cans of air for cleaning/blowing out computer keyboards....even has a straw like WD-40 does....that would certainly work and they're cheap
They have DIY bleeder kits for like $3 at AutoZone and Walmart. Just stick the hose in and suck the oil into a plastic jug. I however found this out too late, I used a screwdriver and shop towels. Just soak up all oil before removing the spark plugs.
Hi, i have a Ford Focus year 2000. When i drive over 120 kph and over the car is shaking only at the drivers seat. I made wheel balancing and front end alignment but it didn't help.
My 2014 Ford Fusion has almost 46k miles. When do I need to change my spark plugs? And what stuff did you put on the new spark plugs before you put it in?
Question.... I notice you put dielectric grease inside the boot which forces it up onto the spring inside. There is some controversy concerning this since dielectric grease is designed to prevent current flow. I have started to put it on the porcelain of the plug and the outside of the tip of the boot as well as a thin coat on the outside of the boot to prevent any spark trace from forming in the future from moisture or dirt. I try to keep it away from the electrode on the end of the plug. What are your thoughts?
+Hammer0f Thor it is absolutely fine to put it on the coil even new coils from Ford come with dielectric grease on them. I have done this thousands of times by now and never a concern.
+FordTechMakuloco Yea I've done it for 40 years too until I got to thinking what dielectric grease was made for. Just doesn't make sense to put insulating grease between the plug electrode and the plug wire contact. Maybe I did have a bad plug wire that wasn't a bad plug wire. I'll always use dielectric but I see no reason to get it on the conductive surfaces.
I just had a tune up Saturday on my 2010 4 cylinder ford fusion today the car stopped while i was driving. The battery light came on i got a jump. After that engine cranks but not catching even when im not holding the key its still cranking but cant catch is this something that went wrong with the tune up or something else please help
Hi there, how hard should these plugs come out. I broke mine loose but they feel like a bolt that is about to break. I stopped because I didn't want to do what you said pull the threads with the plug. I started the car cold and moved it into the garage so it should not be hot. Any ideas why these are so hard to turn ? Thanks for any information you have in advance. The car runs good but has 180,000 mile on it. Not sure if they are original.
+John St.Amour they will be a bit hard to remove yes but should not creak or sound like metal snapping. If you are worried spray WD-40 down in there and work it out but generally these are never a problem.
great video: I think I'll have to get a one piece socket & extension. I tightened my plug back down and my socket stayed on the plug but the extension came out. Then I was freaking out trying to get my socket off the plug down in the well. I am not used to these fords with deep plug wells and long threaded plugs. It totally creeps me out when installing plugs in this engine. It always feels like I am cross threading and I hope to god I'm not. I Hate working on this engine. I am used to older cars that were more user serviceable
So i converted the in lbs. into ft lbs. because that's the only torque wrench i got. It converted the 108in lbs. into 9ft lbs. I just want to confirm before i continue that it'll be okay.
No in almost all cases they have a plastic sleeve on them so the gap does not change during shipment. I still check them before installing in my customer vehicles.
@@FordTechMakuloco That's the thing, they are Denso Iridium TT's and Denso specs them at .040 for my car, but ford manual shows .049-.053 for 2012 Fusion 2.5L
The video says to gap the plugs at .044'' but the video's description says .051''. Other sources on the internet say .052'' to .056''. It's 'pin the tail on the donkey' time! 😆
opinion: probably 5/8 plug socket but make damns sure you buy a socket and extension that are "ONE PIECE".....not two separate pieces. If you don't your socket could come loose and get stuck on the plug. Happened to me.
+FordTechMakuloco I know there are benefits on race engines, but could there be any adverse effects if the ground electrode faces the intake in these engines? Any other position probably would hurt anything with 4 valves per cylinder.
My wife's 2000 mercury cougar sticker under the hood states that the spark plug gap be 0.052- 0.056, the autostore states it be 0.052, what would be the difference if I gap them 0.056?
Way back in the 80’s when I went to school, we were taught by the instructors to use a piece of rubber vacuum tubing placed over the end of spark plug if we couldn’t start by hand. Prevented the possibility of cross threading . Great video as usual. Thanx
Yep. That was what I was taught too. It works.
Cannot beat your videos for detailed information. You just saved me several hundred dollars and the gratification that it’s done right. I found that the shop I paid a not long ago did not change the gasket around one of the spark plug wells and it was the leaker. Obvious since their gaskets were blue and the oem was black and brittle. I don’t have any mechanics I can trust anymore. If you want it done right , watch Makulocos video and do it yourself !
I just bought a used Ford Escape XLS 2.5 liter, 4 cylinder and I really appreciate your expertise. Every thing you said makes a lot of sense, especially using the correct tools for the job. Thanks again.
anyone out there that has a question about there car...ask this guy...I was in the business many years before I switched to bathroom remodeling and I can tell you for a fact that he is the most HONEST mechanic I have yet to not meet...lol
Great video! Considering doing this myself with some replacement NGK or Motorcraft plugs. I had a local mechanic I trust replace my plugs on my 2006 Ford Escape (2.3L 4x4 with 242k miles) a few thousand miles ago; used Autolite iridiums from Napa. I just recently started noticing the slightest amount of...hard to describe, but very minute loss of power or similar while cruising at speed on the highway-no indications on the tach or speed, just a feeling of slight slip. I'm not sure if the old Escape is starting to head down the path of failure, or if it is just the coils-they are likely the original. My mechanic found the valve cover gasket leaking when he did the plugs and fixed that too (110k miles since I had it fixed doing the plugs the first time back in 2011 after I bought it used). I would love to keep this car going towards 300k: it's been the most faithful vehicle I've ever owned. I do the oil changes myself every 3-5k with full synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter, but fell behind on the tranny drain and replace...went 70k between doing so. Gradually doing the drain and replace over several thousand miles to try to ease the old car into newer tranny fluid.
Sara S I bought my NGK plugs at O'Reillys for $3.99 each.....very good plug no issues
Thanks for the great video Brian! I like how you show how to blast out all the dust and debris with the compressed air I've been doing it that way too since day one. I work at a shop and the boyz make fun of me for doing those little things but it's those important steps that make a spark plugs change successful!
been using denso plugs for 50,000 miles no issues
2:27 Don’t forget that when pulling the coils out, the boots may stick to the valve cover. A little twisting action is all I needed to pull the coils on my 2.5.
Always OEM plugs! Agreed on that. These are so easy compared to the old 8 plug Ranger 4-cylinder. Fighting around the intake manifold is a pain.
plus one on Motorcraft plugs, I had the same experience with all my Ford's. most aftermarket plugs into got 20k before I had missfire problems related to plugs
Thanks for the video! You answered an issue I have. I put Denso Iridium TT's in my 2.5 and at first start it would idle rough and it finally went away. But I have noticed a lower MPG's. Hoping to put a new set of OEM's back in soon.
This guy IS the best! Thanks Bro!
Great video, just changed my 2012 ,2.5l escape, found rusty liquid in the two center plug boot cavities, not oily and doesn't seem to be antifreeze, put in plugs and it runs fine... Any ideas?
.
Man, now I gotta get an air compressor and attachments. I've worked on my own car for years and never done the blasts of air.
Same here. Such an easy & smart thing to do.
Two years ago I had to replace the coil in my 2009 Ranger 2.3. I was replacing the plug wires also but the sleeve at the end of one plug wire broke off and stuck on the top of the plug and that was a pain to remove. I had to use an extra long needle nose pliers to get it off.
My 2011 2.3 Ranger has 193,000 miles and I’m guessing the original plugs since it had 60,000 miles when I bought it.
Not so easy to change plugs in those.
Did buy a Escape 2005 xlt 2.3 here in Bali, Indonesia, did found DENSO K20PR-U copper spark plugs .(just 1$ here:) Your recommended Motorcraft SP 541 are not available here. Did buy Mazda (Tribute) iridium plugs (Made by NGK).
AutoLite is essentially the same as Motorcraft. I used them in my 08 Mariner Hybrid and ran them with over 200,000 miles
+Alex H yes that was the way it was but nowadays I am diagnosing more and more drivability concerns related to Autolite plugs.
Gotcha. What should I use on my 2010 Milan Hybrid? 126,000 miles.
The same plug used here- amzn.to/2bAC4Cf
My 2008 2.3 Ford Escape came in with a OEM NGK spark plugs.
you need to figure out a way to expand your channel with marketing...you are the best I've seen on youtube and you could be making a lot of money through advertisements if you work it right...my wife has her masters in marketing...if you ever want to talk with her let me know...she is really good...keep up the awesome vids bud...if am a mechanic too and you are spot on and then some
what was the plug part number you recommended- I know you had mentioned to put only Motorcraft ones back in. THNKS
The part number for the 2010 to 2012 Fusion 2.5L I4 is Motorcraft SP-530 those are the OEM and best plugs to stick with
Just tried to replace the plugs on my son's 2012 Fusion 2.5L (just bought it used 162k) and ran into two very top rusted inner plug tubs. Outside two were fine, inside two were so rusted we couldn't get the socket to seat on the top of the plug so cleaned the coil boot and didnt mess with the plug. The rust in both inner tubs were dry so from what we could see nothing lese inside either tube was wet, so not sure if the water/coolant leak is still active. Anyone idea on what might have caused it also suggestion on getting the plugs out without creating a real mess and a more expensive repair. Not looking to pull the head off or crazy like that.
I'm curious why you specifically recommend Nickel based anti-seize lube. Why not Aluminum or Copper based? Permatex anti-seize products are labelled with the following recommendations/suggested applications:
Permatex Cu - Spark plug threads installed in aluminum
Permatex Al - Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts;
Permatex Ni - Suggested applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies; For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys
They don't mention spark plugs for the Nickel based lube.
Can you explain why you recommend the Ni and not Al or Cu.
Thank you.
Brian, I just bought a 2011 2.5 with 58kmi. All four plugs are seized to the point where I can't even turn them a quarter turn. I've soaked with penetrant and carb choke cleaner for days, but still no luck. Any tips or advice on how to overcome this without pulling out the threads? Thanks.
Now that is just wild are you using a 1/2 ratchet? These plugs have very long threads so lots of area to gum up. Besides soaking them the only thing I can think of is inductive heat.
1/2 ratchet? No, I'm using my standard 3/8 because it feels like the
threads are being torn out with every mm I turn them! lol Plus they all
make that sickening squeaking sound. In all my years of working on cars,
never seen anything like it. Thanks for the tips.
Do the spark plugs on a 2.3 or 2.5 use crush washers or are they just tapered? My new motorcraft plugs did not come with new crush washers.
What is recommended to clean out the area/spark plug if you don’t have access to an air compressor?
I used a syringe to pull out most then use a shop towel to wipe clean.
QUESTION: please, I have searched and searched but cannot seem to find one standard answer (the answers vary from .54 -. 60) What is the OEM recommended Spark Plug GAP for my Focus zx3 with a Ford 2.3L Duratec Engine? The hood was replaced from an accident so I have no engine sticker to refer to. I purchased Motorcraft SP492X that are pre-set at .54 but I don't want to install them if incorrectly gapped. Thank you
Thanks for sharing the impact
Does this video / instructions also apply to the 2.3-liter DOHC four-cylinder that was standard in the 2008 MAZDA Tribute?
Love your videos man. What engine mount would you recommend to replace my rear engine motor mount on 2012 Ford Escape 4cylinder?
Great Demo and description.
Any reason why the dielectric grease should be specifically Motorcraft? Also Isn't that an excessive amount? looks like it's covering the whole coil, I thought its not suppose to cover the resistor and mostly just apply small layer to the side walls.
+Mark the coil boots are hollow all the excess goes up into the coils spring and a light layer remains it works out perfect. You can use any dielectric grease.
Can you make a video on how to diagnose an ODB 0420 code from the same engine?
If you have a 420 or 430 code you need a cat plain and simple.
I’ve noticed with Ford they cut engines displacement in half a lot. Is it just coincidence, or done on purpose for modularity?
2.0L I4 to 4.0L V6
2.3L I4 to 4.6L V8
2.5L I4 to 5.0L V8
2.7L V6 to 5.4L V8
3.0L V6 to 6.0L V8 (even though it’s diesel)
Probably because a lot of manufacturers use “square” or over square engines where the bore and stroke are similar. The 2.0, 2.3, and 2.5 are the same block and basically the same engine
For a 2010 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L, what motorcraft spark plug part number do I need? I cant get a clear answer anywhere…
They had wrong plugs in our 2011 escape that were a lot shorter good thing I checked. Couldn’t even find old ones on amazon (agsp 52c)
Rock Auto has a big selection.
I have a valve cover gasket leak and theres quite a bit oil around the spark plugs... if i replace the gasket and clean up the oil should everything be ok?
Yes. Just did mine, no problems
I'm trying to remove the first coil and it won't pull out as shown in your video. Yes, the bolt is removed and the engine is cold. Should I force it or what?
Twist and pull
2010 ford focus has a miss when cruising down the road. It only happens one or two times when driving. putin new plugs and still have it. What would you look at next?
fairlane you may have a coil going bad if you haven't fixed it already
Thanks for sharing this. I was wondering, after searching, I've only found one video on the 2.3L engines on your channel. I know there are a lot of them out there so, Am I missing something in my searches? BTW, I bought a Bosch driver on your recommendation and love it. I also use the same spark plug socket set and they are excellent.
No the 2.3l and 2.5l have been very reliable.
What I have found is that there is almost no info on the Escape 2008 2.3L engine any were in RUclips all they show is 6 cyl wonder why??? I need the spark plug gap for this engine and the location of the MAP sensor. :(
Hi I have a 07 Ford Fusion 2.3l what type of spark plugs can I use? Somebody told me e3 park plugs are good? I'm confused
Love ur video! My car is 2010 Escape 2.5L. As you said, MotorCraft OEM should be NGK made. Can I just upgrade to "NGK Ruthenium HX Spark Plug - Part #90220"? Advance Auto Part says it exactly fits.
Excellent video....thank you
not spark plug related, but I had a CCRM smoke out (on a Thunderbird, Mustang, Taurus similar), took it apart(its riveted) and the low speed fan output pin and pad are burnt. Ran Fan actuator test and only high speed fan works, but low speed fan relay clicks and if I jumper the pin on the CCRM PCB the fan runs. Planning on resoldering. I did a current draw test on the fan direct to vbatt and low is about 9 amps high about 11. I'm wondering if the old fan could have taken out the CCRM or it may have been just bad solder on the CCRM. It was a used unit, original one had trouble powering fuel pump. Can't really get them new.
I noticed the temp gauge would get a bit hotter, obvious that the high speed fan was kicking in at higher temps. The fan works fine when jumpered, but I'm thinking maybe it should be replaced.
Those ccrm modules fail all the time. Ford doesn't offer them anymore and Dorman?
standard auto parts has some remans, they are like $150., Reviews are bad, seems it is pot luck which version you get (some are just single speed. Then there is used, likely from a very high mileage car (no junkyards where I am). Going to rebuild mine with extra parallel wires going to the pins. Have a spare too with some good relays. The failure on mine was likely bad solder.
My Milan has 110K miles on it. Is it worth it to just go ahead and replace the coils as well as the plugs - (using all Motorcraft parts)? What would I gain? Price is not much of a consideration for me.
Stephen Dutton I would say yes, replace them all now ...a little preventative maintenance to ensure no future failures of the old parts....better fuel economy too
All 4 plugs in my 2010 Fusion Hybrid 2.5L refuse to turn at all. 106k on the car. Been soaking in PB Blaster all afternoon, no change. Using 3/8" ratchet with 5/8" gearwrench flex extension- any tips before I take it in?
Got them all out after soaking for a week in PB Blaster. Used nickel anti-seize on the new plugs. Next guy will thank me... All's well that ends well. Thanks for the video!
how we can increase motor performance for ford fusion 2010 2.5 litter by the spark plug , also what the best resistance for spark plug if we measure by multimeter .
I am a DIY mechanic and I di not have compressed air to blow out the plug holes, or the engine. Any ideas? I am thinking about using my leaf blower, but as curious in if there was anything else that could be suggested
Brady A they sell compressed cans of air for cleaning/blowing out computer keyboards....even has a straw like WD-40 does....that would certainly work and they're cheap
They have DIY bleeder kits for like $3 at AutoZone and Walmart. Just stick the hose in and suck the oil into a plastic jug. I however found this out too late, I used a screwdriver and shop towels. Just soak up all oil before removing the spark plugs.
Hi, i have a Ford Focus year 2000. When i drive over 120 kph and over the car is shaking only at the drivers seat. I made wheel balancing and front end alignment but it didn't help.
Motor mount
how does the boot cap secure to the valve cover? How snug should it fit ? Mine seem kinda loose .Is it time for new boots?
My 2014 Ford Fusion has almost 46k miles. When do I need to change my spark plugs? And what stuff did you put on the new spark plugs before you put it in?
On Reddit, They said over 100k miles.
at 100k miles
Thank you so much for the information.
Question.... I notice you put dielectric grease inside the boot which forces it up onto the spring inside. There is some controversy concerning this since dielectric grease is designed to prevent current flow. I have started to put it on the porcelain of the plug and the outside of the tip of the boot as well as a thin coat on the outside of the boot to prevent any spark trace from forming in the future from moisture or dirt. I try to keep it away from the electrode on the end of the plug. What are your thoughts?
+Hammer0f Thor it is absolutely fine to put it on the coil even new coils from Ford come with dielectric grease on them. I have done this thousands of times by now and never a concern.
+FordTechMakuloco Yea I've done it for 40 years too until I got to thinking what dielectric grease was made for. Just doesn't make sense to put insulating grease between the plug electrode and the plug wire contact. Maybe I did have a bad plug wire that wasn't a bad plug wire. I'll always use dielectric but I see no reason to get it on the conductive surfaces.
Should the electrode have space in between the pug tip ? Or is it supposed to cap the plug metal to metal?
I just had a tune up Saturday on my 2010 4 cylinder ford fusion today the car stopped while i was driving. The battery light came on i got a jump. After that engine cranks but not catching even when im not holding the key its still cranking but cant catch is this something that went wrong with the tune up or something else please help
Is this engine the same with mazda 2.3/2.5? Not the skyactive ones
Yep
Thank you for making this video.
Спасибо!
Thanks!
would you be able to show more repair videos on smaller Ford's like the Fiesta/Focus?
Hi there, how hard should these plugs come out. I broke mine loose but they feel like a bolt that is about to break. I stopped because I didn't want to do what you said pull the threads with the plug. I started the car cold and moved it into the garage so it should not be hot. Any ideas why these are so hard to turn ? Thanks for any information you have in advance. The car runs good but has 180,000 mile on it. Not sure if they are original.
+John St.Amour they will be a bit hard to remove yes but should not creak or sound like metal snapping. If you are worried spray WD-40 down in there and work it out but generally these are never a problem.
2009 ford escape xls does the ignitions coils have to be motorcraft only ?
Hey Brian, wanted to get your thoughts on change intervals for steering fluid and axle/gear oil. do you also recommend evey 30k miles like AT Fluid?
great video: I think I'll have to get a one piece socket & extension. I tightened my plug back down and my socket stayed on the plug but the extension came out. Then I was freaking out trying to get my socket off the plug down in the well. I am not used to these fords with deep plug wells and long threaded plugs. It totally creeps me out when installing plugs in this engine. It always feels like I am cross threading and I hope to god I'm not. I Hate working on this engine. I am used to older cars that were more user serviceable
Thank you brother
Best I’ve seen!
Very helpful and informative video thank you 🤜🏻
Brian where is the PCV valve on my 2012 Fusion 2.5??
.
+Jimmynitr There is an oil baffle under the intake but no real pcv valve
FordTechMakuloco is there any maintenance to do to it?
No
Jimmynitr doesn't have
Thanks, good procedures tips.
Excellent .
I have the 2.5 duratech in my cougar. What’s so special? Why isn’t there very much info on these duratechs?
Nothing special about a duratec. Just a tough reliable motor designed to run forever and get good fuel economy but underpowered.
The duratec has been made forever and ford just updates it so often.
are you using compressed air to blow the dirt away or is it some sort of vacuum cleaner?
I know this is older but he’s using compressed air to blow any debris out of the hole
is this the same engines they have in 2004 to 2013 mazda 3 2.3l/2.5l ?
Yep
What is the wire remaining after the second and before the third has the rubber cover on it.
It's in the third port
Great info., thanks for making this video.
So i converted the in lbs. into ft lbs. because that's the only torque wrench i got. It converted the 108in lbs. into 9ft lbs. I just want to confirm before i continue that it'll be okay.
correct
What kind off drill is that u using
does the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 have ford duratec engines right?
+Ricardo Lupian they are Mazda L series engines Ford calls Duratec
Why would you put insulating grease on the top of the spark plug? That will happen if I apply it as you showed?
Very helpful
Do you have a video about replacing the pcv valve on the 3.0l v6 in the escapes?
No videos but they are fairly simple.
Hello.that vehicle is a ford escape?
Do Iridium spark plugs need to be gaped?
No in almost all cases they have a plastic sleeve on them so the gap does not change during shipment. I still check them before installing in my customer vehicles.
@@FordTechMakuloco That's the thing, they are Denso Iridium TT's and Denso specs them at .040 for my car, but ford manual shows .049-.053 for 2012 Fusion 2.5L
My plugs had the protective cap too...pre-gaped ready to install
@@kennycybertron1 that's what I ended up doing. So far so good. Did not change gap.
The video says to gap the plugs at .044'' but the video's description says .051''. Other sources on the internet say .052'' to .056''. It's 'pin the tail on the donkey' time! 😆
Whats the spark plug socket?
wow pretty simple thanks!
What is the torque setting??
Hi Brian
Where do I get the gap specs for each engine model ??
Thanks great video as usual.
They are listed in the video description it is .051"
+FordTechMakuloco I mean any specific web page for all cars ??
However, in the video u said .044" not .051" I'm confused now
Hello, I just found your channel, great videosWhat model air blow gun are you using?
What size socket do I need ?
opinion: probably 5/8 plug socket but make damns sure you buy a socket and extension that are "ONE PIECE".....not two separate pieces. If you don't your socket could come loose and get stuck on the plug. Happened to me.
What is the torque spec for the spark plug?
In foot pounds? Is it 11 ft-lbs?
What brand air blow gun was that?
Mine is just a "tool shop" Menards brand it works great with the slender tip.
Do you need to disconnect battery first
No just key off.
excellent work
Spark plug torque?
when is the video for the timing chain job on the 4.0l coming out?
I would say in a few weeks just in time for the cooler weather.
+FordTechMakuloco lol, ok thanks
I am waiting for that one too. I am wondering if it will include R&R of the engine as well.
+eldoradony I think so, who want to do that job twice, mine is rattling,I will do both banks , and the head gasket while I'm at it, it is 175k anyway
No R&R of the engine as it can vary year to year and is pretty basic.
Do you ever index these plugs?
+Kenneth Cohagen I have never indexed plugs on a stock engine no
+FordTechMakuloco I know there are benefits on race engines, but could there be any adverse effects if the ground electrode faces the intake in these engines? Any other position probably would hurt anything with 4 valves per cylinder.
Nothing adverse no
I certainly didn’t trust the torque specs. Just gave it a bit more like you showed.
Do you use anti-sieze or silicon on the spark plugs on these new engines?
Mine is hard to get out
My wife's 2000 mercury cougar sticker under the hood states that the spark plug gap be 0.052- 0.056, the autostore states it be 0.052, what would be the difference if I gap them 0.056?
So this newer 2.5 four cyl. Has only 4 spark plugs. Instead of the older one had 8
yes
Behold...the Maverick 2.5...should be a good motor!!