Spent my day off changing breaks and was disappointed to have stuck calipers. This makes so much sense. Let me make that half hour drive back to my truck and make it happen
You are a life saver just got the pickup back from dealership they could not find the problem with the caliper sticking I googled this and selected this because of the title sent video to my son he went right out and was able to fix in 5 min. He is going to call mechanic and tell him so if someone else has this problem it will save them from what we went thru thanks so much for your video
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
i bought a used car that drove perfectly and seemed fine. To get road worthy they had to replace the brake pads. When i got it it seemed like the brakes were stuck down for a second or 2 after i release the brake pedal. This explains everything. thank you
I can’t thank you enough for this video mate!! I wondered why my front right caliper (closest to the master cylinder) was sticking on but the piston was pushing back really easily with the cap off. Now it seems the engine brake effect feels back to normal, mpg is much better and the power feels normal again. It was like driving with the handbrake half on this morning. After a test drive once I’d removed some fluid, it seems that I’ve sorted the problem thanks to you 🙏 Cheers, Ian
My brakes driver side tire was hot and I did not realize I had put to much fluid in the reservoir until I seen this video I took a turkey baster and extracted some of the fluid out now the car is running smoothly and the brakes are not hot.... Thanks so much for posting this video you are helping so many people God bless you...
@@lilflame69 yes it was and just the driver side tire was hot and smoking I also took out the caliper guide pins and boots and installed new ones as the heat...expanded the old boots and greased them because water had gotten in...
This is one of the most sensible diagnosis I've seen. I myself had slightly sticking calipers which I deduced from the fact that when I freely rotate the front wheels (Car jacked up), I hear the brakes squealing against the brake disc and therefore the wheel did not rotate freely. I actually did the same mistake of pushing the caliper piston back in to accommodate for newer set of brake pads but I didn't drain out the extra brake oil from the reservoir and hence it was also above the MAX level. Thanks to you my issue has been resolved and I was actually getting a wobbly steering because of that at low speeds. SUBSCRIBED !!!
Thank you this saved me a massive headache. Just did this brake job on my wife’s car and this issue occurred . But opening the cap and pumping the brake to fill that gap worked out just fine , no need to mess with the brakes again. I can’t thank you enough, Thomas! You have my sub and I’m sharing this video to my buddies
Brillient and so simple! I had exactly this problem and could not understand why one side was perfect and the other side was over heating and the pads were worn down on one side only. SO important to check fluid level when changing pads. P.S. the garage that I bought the car from had done the brakes and filled the tank right to the top!!!
Great help. Never thought of it that way. -i just a quick bleeding on my can am defender but them over filled the brake fluid and the pedal started to be a bit sticky on hard braking. Lowered the fluid to max & all is well. - my hot rod was hard to push when it was in neutral. I open and close the brake bleeding nipple and all is well till i push the brake pedal and it does it again. I flushed out all the brake fluid and refilled with new & bleed the system and all is perfect.
FANTASTIC!!! Many, many thanks!!! I had all 4 rotors changed out together with new pads and I get sometimes one of the rear calipers stuck, overheating rotor and wheel... Now I see my fluid reservoir filled up to the cap, to the very top of it! I gonna drain it down! Again, many, many thanks! I just hope it hasnt damaged the new rotors as well...
This totally passed my mind thanks a lot for this information. I hope this fixes my problem but if it don’t I will still keep this in mind when I’m changing brakes. Thanks
Great vid, helped me solve my issue. My piston had gotten stuck. Popping the bleed valve helped getting going again so i could fully retract it for new brakes. Original brakes on there for 130k miles, which meant the rotor was trashed too.
Very easily understood. I'm having this issue but don't know if this is the cause. Makes alot of sense tho. I'm no mechanic but it's these videos that help joe shmoes like myself learn a thing or two. Thanks man.
I can't thank you enough for your input on this video because I did exactly what you just said you're not supposed to do lol so I guess now I have to drain a little bit of brake fluid to compensate for that pressure?
I'm about to go on my jollies and fitted new pads and the brakes were binding very slightly, I put some kitchen towel in the brake fluid reservoir and took some fluid out, voila job done. Great advice. Thank you.
Had me pads n discs changed , a few days later first thing in morning , pulled away and it made a big clonking noise , watched your vid and saw the reservoir full to the top , done like you said ....fingers crossed .
This is a great piece of info. My right rear caliper piston makes so much noise like the pads are dragging on the rotor. I have to remove some fluid from the reservoir to see if that works... UPDATE: This did not work for me. Back to the drawing board now...!!
@@lilflame69 Fixed it.. Piston seals were never leaking fluid. Removed the seal surrounding the piston and found the piston had a chip torn off of it so I just replaced the entire caliper and it solved the problem. I think air was getting into lines thru that chipped piston.
Hey, I have a question. When you say drain out what you don't want, do you mean bleeding at least that caliper or simply get the extra fluid from the master cilinder. Thank for this video.
I can't understand all the positive comments, that's just not how brakes work - the amount of fluid in the reservoir makes no difference! (obviously you shouldn't run out or anything though)
This is an issue if _all_ the calipers are sticking. Easy to check, but if you go on a drive and use the brakes a few times you should be able to feel by hand if they are rubbing because of the heat. If it’s all of them and the level is good your master cylinder may have a problem or vacuum issue. If it’s just one you may have a different issue like a stuck caliper pin, clogged brake line, or stuck piston.
I always pop cap to verify proper fluid level after installing pads. Fluid needs to be changed on a regular basis. Check the owners manual on frequency.
Hey a faulty flex hose will cause your caliber to stick too. It happened to me. Never heard of that before but it ballooned out inside and caused a blockage. Pretty wild but it will cause a stuck caliber
Most common problem for sticking pads is failure to properly lube and clean the back side of the pad clip guides and caliper bushings & pins with silicone brake lubricant when installing new pads. Don't overlook this. And bleed the breaks completely every 50,000k or 5 years due to condensations contamination to avoid leaky seals. I know, it is a closed system... but will definitely see the difference in old dirty fluid after time has past.
i have wrangler 2003 with abs. Front driver side was metal to metal brakes from the inside but the outside was about 50%. Decided to replace rotors and brake pads since it was metal to metal for both front. Passenger side was okay it still had some life left. Now i bought remanufactured calipers from napa since front driver started smelling funky and really hot. Driver side front caliper started sticking therefore i thought it was brake hose so replaced that and still same problem. Changed caliper under warranty and still sticking. I followed these steps and compressed piston while brake fluid cap was removed and was not above max. Pumped 3 times and still not passed max. Put everything back on but when i press brakes the rotor is tight and will not rotate. Please help! I let the bleeder go off and poured some out and closed back and the rotor still wont move.
I changed the front brakes on my 05 envoy, I had to press the caliber back obviously. Well afterwards I had no brake pressure at all but there was plenty of fluid. SO I bled the brakes, now all is good but there's 1 brake that presses too hard turning the truck when I brake and sticks for a few minutes after accelerating again. Once it releases it feels like the truck is throwing me into the other lane which at times is oncoming traffic. How do I fix this issue?
hoping this is my issue as i had a ton of fluid but drained most excess out. I never checked again after pumping brakes and my front right seems to be dragging, hoping its just that!
My rear brake is locking up, before we did the brakes on it the emergency brake was disconnected. we reconnected the emergency brake and now the brakes are locking up. What could be the problem??
I got out of my car and smelt something burning, I almost thought it was electrical until I held my hand down by the tire and could feel the heat. My car's brakes work good, just the last drive home I could feel wobble a little bit and so I guess my caliper is stuck, likely did some rotor damage, which sucks because I just replaced them! if I open this caliper and pump my brakes and check to see if there is access brake fluid would that be a good idea? I change them through an at home mechanic generally
Definitely makes sense. Just did my rear brakes. Had to push pistons all the way in. Now front left brake is sticking. Gotta be the fluid level ima check now thanks !
Rubio.: a stuck brake piston caliper probably won't cause intermittent jerking. They tend to remain activated one way or the other, usually extended and won't retract. This burns up your brake pad and rotor and can cause a fire if left unchecked.
So then is this possible to happen to only one caliper?? I drive a 03 Tahoe and my back passenger side caliper has had issues ever since I got new rims and tires on my truck. It always seems that that specific rotor is always chewed up looking and constantly needs pads
Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slide pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting stuck calibers. I filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder and the brake lines look good. Break fluid runs through the front brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. Thank you.
+sheba6779 I am not a mechanic and just sharing what I have learned from other videos. A proper diagnosis from a trained mechanic is always advised. Having said that, since you mentioned that you changed most of the other brake components and the issue is still there, you may want to look up few videos on brake boosters. I have seen this also as one of the reasons for stuck calipers. Again this a random person on YT giving you advice 😊
Bought a car today where the right front caliper is sticky. Did see they put in new pads and changed the wheel bearing. I am guessing someone did not know what they were doing. Fluid is at its max in the reservoir. Gonna bleed the brake caliper a bit tomorrow to see if this is the problem or if its the brake hose that is bad...
Over time the rubber hose can collapse in a weird way I've seen it will let fluid through but not back to let the caliper release.. I've seen calipers themselves get froze from rust and crud. When doing pads always inspect and grease those slide pins with the right grease.. I'm having problem now caliper stuck wheel is hot 🔥 to touch. Getting ready to dig into it 2007 hyundai sonata hope it's not some crazy abs ecs issue
This doesn’t make any sense. The fluid level will be maximum with new brakes that will be retracted. When you press the brakes the fluid level will go DOWN
Авто/Мото
Spent my day off changing breaks and was disappointed to have stuck calipers. This makes so much sense. Let me make that half hour drive back to my truck and make it happen
Dang
Exact same thing here. So upset that I spent all this money and I put it all in myself and saw no issues. Couldn't figure this out for my life.
So did it work for you?
😢
Sameeee
You are a life saver just got the pickup back from dealership they could not find the problem with the caliper sticking I googled this and selected this because of the title sent video to my son he went right out and was able to fix in 5 min. He is going to call mechanic and tell him so if someone else has this problem it will save them from what we went thru thanks so much for your video
I know it is too late for a response being a 1-year-old thread, but for future DIY freaks, here is an insight. I had a confounding problem with my Chevy Cruze Diesel for more than 6 months when the calipers would not release after lifting the foot off the brake pedal once it got to high temperatures. The brake assembly used to be serviced the usual way at the authorized service centre by greasing the slide pins with appropriate grease from many different brands, but to no avail. The mechanic then felt it was the synthetic brake cylinder seal, but that too was not the culprit. I then decided to do a DIY of the problem and found out that the caliper pins were not the problem at all and neither was the piston rubber seal. The actual issue was with the front disc brake alloy pistons of the brake caliper assembly. Do not ask me why but the composition of the piston used in the Cruze Diesel in Bhaarath (India) was suspect as it enlarged minutely over time (it was not the brake cylinder rusting); I sanded it down and then cleaned it thoroughly and put back the assembly, and it has been a smooth ride ever since. Fuel efficiency too has gone up from 9kmpl to 14kmpl as there was severe drag from the brakes. Acceleration too has gone up by leaps and bounds. In my particular case, the piston was the culprit and not the sliding caliper pins, brake cylinder or the brake cylinder synthetic seal.
I think you nailed it man. And 2 months roughly later, I need em again. That's what I did
i bought a used car that drove perfectly and seemed fine. To get road worthy they had to replace the brake pads. When i got it it seemed like the brakes were stuck down for a second or 2 after i release the brake pedal. This explains everything. thank you
I can’t thank you enough for this video mate!! I wondered why my front right caliper (closest to the master cylinder) was sticking on but the piston was pushing back really easily with the cap off. Now it seems the engine brake effect feels back to normal, mpg is much better and the power feels normal again. It was like driving with the handbrake half on this morning. After a test drive once I’d removed some fluid, it seems that I’ve sorted the problem thanks to you 🙏 Cheers, Ian
My brakes driver side tire was hot and I did not realize I had put to much fluid in the reservoir until I seen this video I took a turkey baster and extracted some of the fluid out now the car is running smoothly and the brakes are not hot.... Thanks so much for posting this video you are helping so many people God bless you...
Was your car shaking when you accelerated?
@@lilflame69 yes it was and just the driver side tire was hot and smoking I also took out the caliper guide pins and boots and installed new ones as the heat...expanded the old boots and greased them because water had gotten in...
@@luxurycarkey7207 thanks for responding I’m dealing with the exact same problem. I shall try the steps you took
This is one of the most sensible diagnosis I've seen. I myself had slightly sticking calipers which I deduced from the fact that when I freely rotate the front wheels (Car jacked up), I hear the brakes squealing against the brake disc and therefore the wheel did not rotate freely.
I actually did the same mistake of pushing the caliper piston back in to accommodate for newer set of brake pads but I didn't drain out the extra brake oil from the reservoir and hence it was also above the MAX level.
Thanks to you my issue has been resolved and I was actually getting a wobbly steering because of that at low speeds.
SUBSCRIBED !!!
Good teacher. Very clear and comprehensive. Good camera work too
Thank you this saved me a massive headache. Just did this brake job on my wife’s car and this issue occurred . But opening the cap and pumping the brake to fill that gap worked out just fine , no need to mess with the brakes again. I can’t thank you enough, Thomas! You have my sub and I’m sharing this video to my buddies
Thank you so much!
What a great, simple explanation of what's going on. You're a great teacher and obviously know your stuff
Had the brake seize on my Jeep, after searching for two hours this was the only video that explained the issue. Wish I could buy you a beer my dude.
Hey Thomas, thanks for this info! I had the same issue after installing new rotors and pads as well, but this worked like a charm!
Brillient and so simple! I had exactly this problem and could not understand why one side was perfect and the other side was over heating and the pads were worn down on one side only. SO important to check fluid level when changing pads. P.S. the garage that I bought the car from had done the brakes and filled the tank right to the top!!!
Brake master class in less than 10min. Now I know. Thanks buddy
Perfectly explained made sense stuck to the topic short sweet straight to the point, nicely done sir
Great help. Never thought of it that way.
-i just a quick bleeding on my can am defender but them over filled the brake fluid and the pedal started to be a bit sticky on hard braking. Lowered the fluid to max & all is well.
- my hot rod was hard to push when it was in neutral. I open and close the brake bleeding nipple and all is well till i push the brake pedal and it does it again. I flushed out all the brake fluid and refilled with new & bleed the system and all is perfect.
FANTASTIC!!! Many, many thanks!!! I had all 4 rotors changed out together with new pads and I get sometimes one of the rear calipers stuck, overheating rotor and wheel... Now I see my fluid reservoir filled up to the cap, to the very top of it! I gonna drain it down! Again, many, many thanks! I just hope it hasnt damaged the new rotors as well...
This totally passed my mind thanks a lot for this information. I hope this fixes my problem but if it don’t I will still keep this in mind when I’m changing brakes. Thanks
Well I’m at work watching this and I can’t wait to get off work and try this. Ram into the same exact issue while doing a brake job over the weekend.
Sir you are doing the Lord’s work, Thank you very much.
Great tip man some thing that you truly wouldn’t think about
solid tip & something I have always done & advised.
Awesome video, made my day. For weeks my brake was squeeking. Couldnt figure out why. This fixed the problem 😁
Copy!! thank you this is a very descriptive video, with great insight, and knowledge from what I see!!
Great advice. You just got yourself a new subscriber!
Great vid, helped me solve my issue. My piston had gotten stuck. Popping the bleed valve helped getting going again so i could fully retract it for new brakes. Original brakes on there for 130k miles, which meant the rotor was trashed too.
Thanks 👍 Thomas brain
Enjoy from Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Very easily understood. I'm having this issue but don't know if this is the cause. Makes alot of sense tho. I'm no mechanic but it's these videos that help joe shmoes like myself learn a thing or two. Thanks man.
thanks for watching
Awesome video and explanation! Exact problem I'm having!
I can appreciate things that just make sense !!! Thanks!!! It’s a shame sense is not common! 🤣 thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
I can't thank you enough for your input on this video because I did exactly what you just said you're not supposed to do lol so I guess now I have to drain a little bit of brake fluid to compensate for that pressure?
GIRST USEFUL THING I'VE FOUND ALL DAY!!!! you know how many people are saying the basic stuff and youre hust like probably too much pressure XD
I'm about to go on my jollies and fitted new pads and the brakes were binding very slightly, I put some kitchen towel in the brake fluid reservoir and took some fluid out, voila job done. Great advice. Thank you.
Thank you brother! I'm going to do this right now. Makes perfect sense.
Bro, this just made my day😂 how could I not of thought of this🤦♂️
Dude same same my 2014 accord has been grabbing and had lights come on and it's nice to see these easy fixes
Had me pads n discs changed , a few days later first thing in morning , pulled away and it made a big clonking noise , watched your vid and saw the reservoir full to the top , done like you said ....fingers crossed .
Oh man!! Thank you!!! I was so confused what happened.
Mate, if you ever come to Macedonia let me know, beers on me. Felt like Alison in Wonderland trying to find a solution for days.. Thanks alot!
I always bleed the caliper when ftting new pads so as not to backfill resevoir. great video. cheers
I've never done that. Never had an issue.
Thanks Buddy....Never thought of that...I always overfilled the brake fluid...
This exactly what's happening to my car .thank you for the video
Good Stuff...last 2 days. Thank you.
Good clear explination mate 👍
Thank You it helped me out.
Thank You so much ,Couldn’t figure it out ,Correct Analysis!!!!
Thanks for great advice.
Excellent explanation it is a great help for DIY ppl
Youre a bloody legend
makes sense. thank you for sharing Sir
Thanks. Good tip
This is a great piece of info. My right rear caliper piston makes so much noise like the pads are dragging on the rotor. I have to remove some fluid from the reservoir to see if that works...
UPDATE:
This did not work for me. Back to the drawing board now...!!
Did you figure out the problem?
@@lilflame69 Fixed it..
Piston seals were never leaking fluid.
Removed the seal surrounding the piston and found the piston had a chip torn off of it so I just replaced the entire caliper and it solved the problem. I think air was getting into lines thru that chipped piston.
@@praetorianpatriot3267 thanks mate.
Also rust n the caliper cylinder walls can cause this! But yea, good place to start!
very true,,,,
Wow thanks for the knowledge respect!
It does make sense. Thanks.
Excellent advice!
Glad it was helpful! thanks for wastching
extending my gratitude, same symptom and sure enough, the brake fluid level was way above the max line.
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
Hey, I have a question. When you say drain out what you don't want, do you mean bleeding at least that caliper or simply get the extra fluid from the master cilinder. Thank for this video.
Thank you! Haha. IT WAS ME! ❤👋👋👋 I couldn't figure out how I messed that up?
Great explanation👊🏼
Thanks brother for sharing ✌️❤✌️👍
Your a life saver bro
Thanks for watching!
I can't understand all the positive comments, that's just not how brakes work - the amount of fluid in the reservoir makes no difference! (obviously you shouldn't run out or anything though)
This is an issue if _all_ the calipers are sticking. Easy to check, but if you go on a drive and use the brakes a few times you should be able to feel by hand if they are rubbing because of the heat. If it’s all of them and the level is good your master cylinder may have a problem or vacuum issue. If it’s just one you may have a different issue like a stuck caliper pin, clogged brake line, or stuck piston.
I always pop cap to verify proper fluid level after installing pads. Fluid needs to be changed on a regular basis. Check the owners manual on frequency.
Good info.
Thank you. this might help. But i may have other problems.
Do you have to take the wheel off and compress the caliper as well as remove some fluid? Or should just removing some fluid do the trick?
Yes ser thank u very much ,,👍
Thank you Sir.!
Thank You!!
If the brake fluid is removed to proper level, without collapsing caliper will that be enough to get caliper back in place?
Hey a faulty flex hose will cause your caliber to stick too. It happened to me. Never heard of that before but it ballooned out inside and caused a blockage. Pretty wild but it will cause a stuck caliber
Most common problem for sticking pads is failure to properly lube and clean the back side of the pad clip guides and caliper bushings & pins with silicone brake lubricant when installing new pads. Don't overlook this. And bleed the breaks completely every 50,000k or 5 years due to condensations contamination to avoid leaky seals. I know, it is a closed system... but will definitely see the difference in old dirty fluid after time has past.
Interesting, thanks.
i have wrangler 2003 with abs. Front driver side was metal to metal brakes from the inside but the outside was about 50%. Decided to replace rotors and brake pads since it was metal to metal for both front. Passenger side was okay it still had some life left. Now i bought remanufactured calipers from napa since front driver started smelling funky and really hot. Driver side front caliper started sticking therefore i thought it was brake hose so replaced that and still same problem. Changed caliper under warranty and still sticking. I followed these steps and compressed piston while brake fluid cap was removed and was not above max. Pumped 3 times and still not passed max. Put everything back on but when i press brakes the rotor is tight and will not rotate. Please help! I let the bleeder go off and poured some out and closed back and the rotor still wont move.
If this fixes my sticky brake tomorrow, I owe you an ice cold beer!
Did it work for you ?
I changed the front brakes on my 05 envoy, I had to press the caliber back obviously. Well afterwards I had no brake pressure at all but there was plenty of fluid. SO I bled the brakes, now all is good but there's 1 brake that presses too hard turning the truck when I brake and sticks for a few minutes after accelerating again. Once it releases it feels like the truck is throwing me into the other lane which at times is oncoming traffic. How do I fix this issue?
Thank you. I think that's exactly what I did wrong.
hoping this is my issue as i had a ton of fluid but drained most excess out. I never checked again after pumping brakes and my front right seems to be dragging, hoping its just that!
i just redid my whole brake system but it’s still sticky just check my fluid and it was overfilling. hopefully this will solve the issue
My rear brake is locking up, before we did the brakes on it the emergency brake was disconnected. we reconnected the emergency brake and now the brakes are locking up. What could be the problem??
GET TO IT!!!
Thank you
Thanks.
These commercials are super annoying though.
THANK YOU
Thanks dogg
Now I know what to do next time I change them. But what do I do to fix the one that is sticking now?
I got out of my car and smelt something burning, I almost thought it was electrical until I held my hand down by the tire and could feel the heat. My car's brakes work good, just the last drive home I could feel wobble a little bit and so I guess my caliper is stuck, likely did some rotor damage, which sucks because I just replaced them! if I open this caliper and pump my brakes and check to see if there is access brake fluid would that be a good idea? I change them through an at home mechanic generally
Did you ever figure out what your issue was?
Definitely makes sense. Just did my rear brakes. Had to push pistons all the way in. Now front left brake is sticking. Gotta be the fluid level ima check now thanks !
How’d that work out for you
Can a bad caliper/stuck piston cause your vehicle to jerk when braking ?
Rubio.: a stuck brake piston caliper probably won't cause intermittent jerking. They tend to remain activated one way or the other, usually extended and won't retract. This burns up your brake pad and rotor and can cause a fire if left unchecked.
So why would they be sticking without adding fluid
Thanks
So then is this possible to happen to only one caliper?? I drive a 03 Tahoe and my back passenger side caliper has had issues ever since I got new rims and tires on my truck. It always seems that that specific rotor is always chewed up looking and constantly needs pads
i have the same question.
did you ever get an answer ?
Rims aren't compatible fkd up the calliper etc
Hi great video 👍🏼. I have a 2008 Honda Civic 1.8l and I’m having issues with the calibers sticking. I installed new calibers, slide pins, rotors, brake pads and both front brake line hoses. I’m still getting stuck calibers. I filled the brake fluid reservoir to the correct full level but can not seem to find the problem. There’s no leaks around the master cylinder and the brake lines look good. Break fluid runs through the front brake lines properly. I’m stuck on this one. If you or anyone have any ideas on what my issue is can you please let me know. Thank you.
+sheba6779 I am not a mechanic and just sharing what I have learned from other videos. A proper diagnosis from a trained mechanic is always advised. Having said that, since you mentioned that you changed most of the other brake components and the issue is still there, you may want to look up few videos on brake boosters. I have seen this also as one of the reasons for stuck calipers. Again this a random person on YT giving you advice 😊
Im having this same problem and just bought a new brake booster hopefully this fixes it
This might be my problem the only thing is only sticks front . Had sticky slide pins after fixing it 1 week later . Filled brake fluid to max
Bought a car today where the right front caliper is sticky.
Did see they put in new pads and changed the wheel bearing.
I am guessing someone did not know what they were doing. Fluid is at its max in the reservoir. Gonna bleed the brake caliper a bit tomorrow to see if this is the problem or if its the brake hose that is bad...
Over time the rubber hose can collapse in a weird way I've seen it will let fluid through but not back to let the caliper release.. I've seen calipers themselves get froze from rust and crud. When doing pads always inspect and grease those slide pins with the right grease.. I'm having problem now caliper stuck wheel is hot 🔥 to touch. Getting ready to dig into it 2007 hyundai sonata hope it's not some crazy abs ecs issue
My sonata is doing the same thing new calipers I'm going to replace the hoses mine is a 2008 how did it work out for you
@@shawnsmith846 did changing the hoses help you?
have you been able to solve the problem i have a wheel lock problem on my 2007 kia optima
@@newua1252 yes it hasn't happened since I changed the hose
@@shawnsmith846 thanks, but which hoses exactly need to be replaced?
This doesn’t make any sense. The fluid level will be maximum with new brakes that will be retracted. When you press the brakes the fluid level will go DOWN
It's both too much and not enough pressure at the same time... ahhh gotcha