2011 F150 Blend Door Actuator in LARIAT and similar trim. NOVICE'S GUIDE to removing and replacing
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- None of the online tutorials I found showed a center console that extended to the control panel, or a touch screen model.
This is me compiling advice from other tutorials to address this.
I don't know what I'm doing. Watch me make mistakes so you don't have to.
The Lariat and similar trim levels have a touch screen and require REMOVING THE CENTER CONSOLE to access actuator behind radio.
Thanks for your video. It helped me save a lot of money.. I was able to do everything but i could not put the backside screw on for the new actuator. My hands are too big. I left it out and it still works. If i have to replace it again. It will certainly be easier to remove.
Thank your correct, they don't. I just wonder which 1, always blowing cold its the same with me here. Hope it's the same one yours was crossing my fingers. Keep you posted. You did great
Thank you. Still relativate 2023, it easier to put it back in (blend door back screw)
Thanks a million, when it break again 1,2,3, easy peezy😮
I got lucky with mine. I took the front screw out and forced the actuator out by prying up on it until the back ear of the actuator broke off. Then the back screw was easily accessible. When I put the new one in, I just only used the front screw. It is all that is needed.
Dude! This was perfect, saved me so much time as the only lariat video with a center console. Loved the commentary. Big time help. Thanks David!
So glad to hear that Bradley. I'm also glad neither of us kept yanking at the trim til it snapped off like every other video said. People helping people. Good times.
Thanks for the video, just did this last night, what a pain, but with your video it wasn't too bad!
disagree with Zack's comment completely. I have a 2012 Harley Davidson with the same style console and touch screen and this video is A LOT more helpful to me than all the rest. Good job! Also, as a side note, I think you are the ONLY one I've seen that actually put the rear bolt back in. Everyone else ignores it and skips that, reinstalling just the front bolt. Good job on the video and I will have you on my laptop in the truck with me as I replace my blend door actuator. Thanks again!
Hey thanks - I hope it went well.
Thanks for the post and advice. I have a 2012 Lariat with navigation and the long center console. I had heat on the driver side and nothing but cold air on the passenger side. There are 4 of these, one on top behind the nav system or CD player and one below buried under the dash.
Luckily it was the one on the top and the easiest to get out/in. The best thing to get is a set of small low profile sockets and if you can get them with magnets that would really help on the install. I was able to get mine out/in from the front and didn't have to go through the glove box. I bought the part from Ford and paid $45.00 for it as all the posts about the cheaper ones and how they didn't fit, so I said I'll just get it from Ford and based on the vin I knew I was getting the right part.
The only problem I had with the Ford part was that the spline was not matched up the same with the arrow as the old part. I had to take apart the new part and carefully push the spline with the gear up and rotate it one or two teeth so it would match and align the screws to the holes. This is not so easy for a novice as it requires you to move a small pc board that is connected to the gear and the connector pins. Thank you Ford!
I followed another guys post about taking out the fuse for the system. Mine was #46 Climate Controls Module and then waited and inserted it and started the truck. I am happy to say I have heat on both sides. Now it's a waiting game to see what breaks next.
Glad it was some help. You seem to know more than I do, and especially more than I did at the time. Happy you were able to solve your problem - and I'll look for some low profile sockets!
@@davidrsloan Hey David, you were a great help and I appreciate your video. I figured out a few things as I followed your lead that made the job a little easier. If you get a set of low profile sockets see if you can get a set with magnets to help hold the socket to the nut or screw. My heater works very well now and I'm glad I got it fixed last week. Just in time for what's going on now. It's very cold.
Great video! It was the only one I could find to help with the center console but very well done! Just finished mine. That back screw is actually the worst thing on earth!
Couple of comments:
There are two 8mm screws holding the back of the console that you don't mention. You have to move the drivers and passenger seats all the way forward to remove them. Once removed the center console will move back so the two side pieces will clear when you take them out.
The screws are 8mm, 7mm and the lid holder is a T24 torx. These are the only sockets I needed.
So the front screw comes out fairly easy, 8mm 1/4" socket.
I was able to get the back screw out without removing the CD player and I didn't have to go through the glove box. How you ask?
Using a 5/16th DeWalt nut driver with magnets, from the front I put the 5/16th on the back nut with clearance for the shank. With a 1/4" open wrench I came in from the front turned the shank and unscrewed the screw. The magnet held the screw head. Didn't have to come in from the glove box at all.
Now that I got it out I found a nice small low profile set that I'll buy.
One important question - when you take out the broken actuator, do you lift straight up and does the new one go straight in? I hope you don't have to move or adjust the splines to get this to fit in and work correctly. Thanks, good video.
Just wanted to thank you for making this video. Your an amazing guy for doing this. It help me out a lot. Wish everyone in the us would be as nice. We could make this wold such an amazing place. Thanks again sir
I have the same trim and I just learned some things that I didn't see on the other videos. Thanks David.
That's excellent to hear, Eddie. Was hoping to help someone out of the same spot as me.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Thanks to you I was able to successfully switch out the passenger side actuator 🙂
Appreciate the video! Only one with instructions to remove center panel on a 2011 Lariat! 😅
Easier way is to pop two floor side panels, pop off center console gear shifter cover, remove 4 screws on front of console, remove 2 screws back of console, pull console straight back just enough to get to two 7mm screws securing two grey side trims, pop two grey side trims loose, remove usb face plate by reaching under it and on the passenger side to push in tabs to release (don't pry), remove plastic tray/cover on top by clock to access two screws and remove them, remove screw behind where usb faceplate was, pull straight out center dash till loose then wiggle it out from behind the two grey side trims, the rest is covered in the vid. Thank you for the vid btw.
This is a great video David, and you are hilarious! It shows the reality of what to expect when working on your own car. People helping People Movement! Thanks David!
Glad it was more funny than obnoxious to you!
Great “how to” video. Thank you.
I bought the blended door actuator for my 2012 F150 King Ranch and did it myself!
#attagirl!
It was fun watching you trying to keep your cool as frustration kicked in. I too have experienced this kind of frustration. 😄
Try replacing the one on the bottom for the dual climate! Yaaaay fun! NOT!😒😀
I don't understand the mistake you made. You turned on the car and the new actuator moved? Was it inserted into position at that time? Or was it out with only the power connector on it? Did you eventually open the old one to see how it looks inside?
Took my whole dash apart for it to be the floor actuator 😂
I have same truck and all the actuators went out the entire dash had to come out $1400
Oh nooooooo. So sorry. Hope that's the last of your problems for a while.
I have a 2012 lariat. Looks the same as yours. I've also had other parts fail due to age. Where did you buy the part and what was the part number. Wish you had shown that. I called Ford today and they said the part cost $45.43. The auto parts places show several parts. They don't seem to know which one is for the truck.
I'll see if I can find the old box. I think I actually saw it on a workbench the other day.
Funny! Fantastic job.
Thanks P.S. !
You do not haffta take center counsel out just did mine 2011 supercrew fx4 look up video for stereo removal there is a couple on you tube it took me 25min to do mine.....
Hey man I did all of this and now my screen won’t work. Any ideas?
David, other than the clicking noise, you seem to have no heat whatsoever. In my truck I get heat on the driver's side and nothing but cold air on the passenger side. I'm not sure if this is the upper or lower blendor. Does anyone know?
On my way outside to tackle mine as I reply to your message. My 2011 F-150 Platinum is doing exactly as you described, but clicking also. I’m believing Since it’s clicking, I’m sure to have to replace at least one of the actuators (I’m only familiar with the top and bottom ones, but some say there are four). My intention is to check which actuator by first getting access to the top actuator, turning the ignition on, listening for the clicking to start, then unplugging the actuator. If the clicking stops, I’ll be happy to replace it. If the clicking doesn’t stop, then it will likely be another actuator, and I’ll make new plans for the month. Hope this helps.
@@gp185 The Ford guy at another dealer was more helpful than the last Ford dealer on this. Yes there are 4 but I'm told the lower one 19E616C is for the right side and 19E616C, the top one is for the left side. Both are the same part top one is easier to get to and the bottom one seems impossible.19E616A is for the air intake and B, I don't know but I don't think you have to worry about it. Another part that could be a problem is the HVAC Control Module (I have navigation and the part no is BL3Z-19980-U). Hopes this helps you.
Well SeaSharp...I pulled the truck apart, and wouldn’t you know, it stopped clicking before I could go any further, but the air on the driver side was still hot, and the passenger still cold. Since it wasn’t working liked it’s supposed to, I went ahead and replaced the top actuator. The screw furthest back wasn’t so bad taking out or putting back in...use 1/4 drive ratchet with 8mm socket...but before unscrewing fully, I had to use my left index finger thru the radio opening side, and my index and middle finger thru the glove box opening to finish unscrewing. Also, I had to use my fingers to start the screw, then finish tightening with the ratchet. Before putting it back together, I connected the screen, started the truck, and IT IS FIXED! Both sides now work perfectly. I installed Motorcraft YH-1933, purchased from Amazon for $20.73. One more item marked off the list! I hope everyone who has this issue takes on the challenge, it wasn’t so bad considering it was the top actuator...
@@gp185 Good to hear. I've heard the back nuts are really difficult to get to. What you described I've seen in other videos and it's a pain. Now I guess I'll do the top one tomorrow and hope that'll fix my truck. Then I can fix a few more of the Ford gremlins.
Late to the party but looks like you two came up with more knowhow than I would have been able offer. Good stuff!
Your video is painful to watch since it is vertical. No real help.
Hey thank you. You did great best tutorial on RUclips you made it very simple and I was able to install the part backup and running 😀
what was the cause for the actuator to break? stuck blend door? if it was you will be replacing actuator again until you deal with the cause
As far as I could tell it was just a stripped gear in there. Plastic gears with plastic teeth and the truck is 10 years old so I guess it was just its time.