2011+ Ford F-150 Driver's Side Temperature Blend Door Actuator Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2019
- This video shows the process to remove and replace the driver's side temperature blend door actuator in 2011-2014 F-150s, without removing the dash. To skip the intro, and go right to the work, go to the 8:03 mark. The intro will give you some explanation and background though. It's a little long, but I tried to thoroughly document the process as I did it from start to finish.
The part number I used is Motorcraft part # YH1933. Be sure to check the right part number for your year truck.
Check out my video for replacement of the upper actuator here:
• 2011+ Ford F-150 Upper...
Special thanks to @FordTechMakuloco for his video showing the process. I used his video and some of the comments in it to add parts and tips that he didn't show in his video.
This is the link to his video: • 2009+ F150 Drivers Sid...
Thanks for watching and I hope this video helps someone tackle this job themselves and save some money. Please like and share, and I welcome your questions and feedback. 
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The video was getting long, so I didn't do a conclusion, but everything when back together without a problem and I have been driving the truck for two days and it's working great. The duct work is secure and is not rattling and is functioning just as it should. Thanks for watching!
I have a f 2010 f150 when I turn the AC on my on the right side the blend door won't open and close like it should can anybody tell me which activator I know it has three of them on my box which one I need to replace
The part about using the old gear to relocate the flap was great! Used it worked like a charm, thanks for this!
Thanks for all your effort to make this video. I'm so grateful for guys like you that take the trouble to show us step by step in these videos how to get it done. YAH Bless you.
THANK YOU!! most thorough video on this ever! I’m about to tackle this myself.
Very helpful video. Especially the part about taking apart the old part and lineing up the gear. Thank you.
Thank you for making such a detailed video. Answered a lot of questions for me before I take on this task.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for sharing this video, a very practical method for this crappy job. Perfect timing too as I have my '12 half torn apart, trying to avoid removing the dash. Cheers!
Hey my Actuator started clicking few weeks ago n I been pushing it off watching a ton of videos here an there then my tv went on me so I got both of them from amazon I watched your video as well as other people’s but by far yours was the most helpful an detailed thanks a lot
Thanks for watching and for the positive feedback.
Thank you for doing this video it really helped get this awful process done a little easier a second set of hands getting the actuator back in was key for me
Thanks for the video I just did this today on my 2011 Lincoln navigator it has the center console and duct work but the job was pretty much the same I used an aftermarket one just cut a quarter inch off the gear and was able to get it in
Thanks for the video buddy! Nothing is wrong with a slight modification at times that serves the same purpose! Appreciate the work video to help others. A+
Thanks for watching and thanks for the positive feedback!
Thanks. I watched one video but skipped a lot of stuff. Yours was so informative, thank you. I have the flow through console and some extra steps like others have said. I just looked up another video on taking that out. It happened to be the same video that left out everything you showed in detail. Thanks again going to give it a shot right now
Can you share extra steps or the video for flow thru console ?
Will be working on mine this week, I appreciate that you made this video without the viewer having to hear cursing throughout it, that’s rare anymore.
A very informative video. Now I know what lies ahead of me. Thank you very much.
Outstanding. You have all the details, knowing all that makes it all easier. Don't have to figure it out.
Thanks man very helpful video I just did the job on right and I am happy.
Just did this yesterday...one trick I'll add to align the new actuator spline is that if you can manage to attach the wire to the new blend door first -- turn the truck on, the ac system will set the new blend door to the last setting (i.e. where the old one was last aligned). Granted, my old actuator was clicking, but upon inspection, it didnt have as many broken gears as yours. So I set the old one to a temp setting where I knew it still worked properly before I started this job.
Thanks for the tip Bob. I'll try that when I replace the upper one, which unfortunately I'm about to have to do... again... ugh.
Pretty cool video. Very well explained. Very challenging job, glad you got it done.
Excellent Video, I'm having that very same problem. I replaced the upper one and it still kept clicking, so it must be the lower blend door actuator. I'll pick up another one and follow what you did. Thank You for taking the time to do the video!!
Very useful! I was able to do this in 2.5 hours thanks to your help
That's great to hear. Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks for the video. Super helpful. I was real happy not to have to pull the entire dash!
Great video. Saved me time and frustration. Successful replacement of my lower blend motor on a 2012 raptor.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Did this repair today however I have the centre console as well as the under seat ductwork. Watched the video twice and did the whole process without an issue. Only thing different I did was leave a bit of the peg u cut from the passenger side and I drilled a hole in it and wired it to the lower duct work to support it up. I believe I read another comment about that. Took under 5 hours and so far the fix seems good. Thanks for the awesome video certainly helped 👍👍👍
Thank you for your effort. Between you and Makuloco I mustered up the courage and tore my truck apart this afternoon. I've actually pulled the complete dash in 3 different Towncars over the years so dash removal wasn't out of the question but the last Townie I did was a 2007 and 5 years of added complexity made pulling the dash seem like too much for this old guy. Plus it wasn't 100% clear to me how much further disassembly was required once the dash is out. It actually appears that its basically a full condenser replacement which is way worse than the Towncar which is bad enough to begin with.
Something you didn't highlight - or if you did I missed it - is the fact that there appears to be a huge variety of designs for the airboxes on these trucks. The Lariat that Makuloco did appeared closer to what I was facing. On my truck there was simply no option to remove that back screw. There's actually a whole 2nd layer of vents above the Y-shaped tube and that completely obstructs any access from the driver side. After watching your video I had convinced myself that that back screw would be removable - I really didn't like Makuloco's solution of breaking the tab but that's exactly what I ended up doing.
Once again, thanks for all the work putting that video together. I've done a few myself and they are a lot of work.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. saving $1800 thanks to you. well done!
Very good video with some helpful tips. I've got the flow through console so I may have a few more things to remove. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks Randy. I'm glad you found it helpful. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.
I see you posted this 5 years ago, but any chance you remember extras or have saved video ? 😁
Thx! I had the same aftermarket part and what I did to make it fit in the tight area was trim down the gear
Helpful video. I don't use the floor vents, so what I've decided to do is to cut up the ducting on the passenger side floor ducting to get to this actuator. I think cutting that ducting out will give enough room to get to the bolts and change this part out.
I was able to get the Dorman part in my 2009 F-150 King Ranch but I had to fight with it with all my will power for a few hours and I think it’s still honestly a miracle I got it in there so definitely go with the OEM part.
Hey, thanks for this video it really helped me fix my lower actuator. Good job!
I have a 2010 Ford f150 the AC blender off of the right side won't change AC to heat stays on or put a AC on when it stays on heat I think the blend door is bad I don't know which one it is can anybody explain which blend door activated is for the bright passenger AC heat on or off
@@deanschools7040 Passengers side actuator is the upper behind the radio. Its a much easier fix then the lower described in this video
You're a good dude. Super helpful content!!
Thanks! I appreciate that.
I work at a used car lot, I tried this on a 2011 F150 with dual climate, it also has the ducting that runs thru the console and out the back as well as under the seats. that console ducting under the dash blocks access to the left screw as that ducting is attached to the piece you cut off on the left, had to break that tab, couldn't put a screw back in, also can''t work the electric plug from that side, a real pain to get new plugged in from the right side. was able to trim the upper edge of the vertical flange of lower right outlet and get fingers a little farther in. did cut off mounting on the right, but left enough to drill a hole for tie raps. Still took all day but made it work. Thanks for the video and helpful tips, not sure I want to tackle another anytime soon.
You can use long foreceps to plug back in. Worked great for me.
Can
Nice thanks for the video 👍🏼
Awesome video. It really helped me out of a jam.
I have the same issue, but I have a center console to deal with... Goodie.... Thanks for the video.
Great thorough video! Luckily my aftermarket warrantee paid the dealer to fix this for me just after buying my 2011 platinum. Unfortunately the warrantee is expired and the upper blend door is now making that clicking. From what I hear it's the easier one to fix. I also had the sunroof issue, that was also fixed under the warrantee. It is so unacceptable that ford would use these cheap parts, totally mind numbing.
My upper one is clicking again. I had one replaced under warranty, and I replaced one myself. This will be the third one. It's very frustrating. I'll do a video when I replace the upper one. I'm just waiting for it to cool off a little.
Awsome step by step
Outstanding video. You thought it was rough but it contained valuable information. I have a 2013 F-150 with a center console, so I had an extra duct that ran to the back of it. This means there was a lot less room to pry things around. Ended up having to cut a chunk out of the top right of the vent on the floor to get the new actuator back in. The old one came out in pieces. I thought that may be useful for others attempting this money saver. THANKS!!!!
Glad it was helpful. Hope you figure out the other issue.
Damm im having the same problem i dont have enough room acess to remove the rear 8ml bolt due to the extra duct that runs to the back with the center console how did you got it out tips tricks well be nice
@@franciscogutierrez2836 I took out the front bolt and the back one, the tab on the old actuator broke. During reinstallation, the back one did not get installed since there is a guide that holds the actuator in place.
I almost gave up on this job i ended up cutting a chuck of plastic vent that goes on passenger side for the feet gave me more acces but not enough to remove the rear bolt so what i did i used a saw blade cut the rear bolt the actuator drop down getting it out was a trick man by cutting the chuck of vent plastic gave acces to disconnect the plug good work but pain in the ass thankx for the tips and tricks gave another ideas to do it with out brake it in pieces 👍
@@franciscogutierrez2836 Looks like cutting it is the only way. I'm having the same problem but haven't cut it yet. What did you use to cut it?
Excellent video.
It's about time somebody finally had the true video I've been fighting with mine for 2 days now I knew there was a screw in there and now I know where it is and I hoped I didn't have to take my seats out but I guess I will have to take them out thank you for the video helps out a lot
I cant thank you enough for this. Saved me alot of trial and error
Thanks for the video
A couple details to make things as easy as possible:
Loosen the HVAC housing nuts (no need to remove) in engine bay, They are 11mm and have an 1.5" washer.
Loosen the dash frame mounting bolts. There are 2 (13mm head) on each side of dash. Again, just loosen no need to remove.
This will allow and extra 1/4" to get old actuator out and new in.
Slide actuator over to the driver side to gain easy access and remove and install the actuator electrical connector.
BTW - no issue with cutting off the mounting stand on the pass side for the floor mode housing. You will not have a rattle etc.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
I have the center console. I stopped at 2am in morning and said “not gonna do it”. i even have the DVD manual to do this but no time. now i hope right side becoming a few degrees warmer may be able to be reset and i don’t have to repair. i can’t hear the clicks (hearing issues)
glad to know i’m not the only one trying tnis insanity 😏
Useful video. I'm curious if you tried swapping the thinner, contoured bottom housing from the OEM part over to the Dorman? Is the Dorman gear case hollow in that area? Maybe the lower shell part of the Dorman is just not contoured like the OEM?
Good video i have a 09 f150 platium and i have problem where im getting cold air on passenger side and rear but driver side not so much air plus is coming out warm any suggestion what may be
Hey so I got a 2013 fx4. Working on it rn as I watch your video. Passenger side blows cold air but the driver side does not. Way before this happened I hear a clicking sound constantly. Even when the truck is turned off. Now I found that the top actuator is faulty and I will replace it. But what do I replace to get cold air blowing on the driver side?
I cut my duct work out. just made life so much easier. and I have no change in quality
Thanks for the help I was able to replace mine in about 1:30 hours..
I have a similar issue with my 2011 Expedition but my driver side floor and dash blows cold air instead. Does this sound like blend door to you?
at 18:00 the post is there to support a different piece of ductwork if you have the center console with two vents for the rear passengers. Hack it off if you don' t have that console and enjoy all that room to get to the screw.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the helpful info.
Thank you for the help the ticking is what I have now .and my battery lite comes on in my dash.
Hi i have a question. My f150 2013 in driver side, even i change it to cold or hot it stays on slightly warm. Feels like the blend door is stuck to neutral but the passenger works fine. Tried to max the fan either of the side, it still works. It is the same as this video? Just replace the blend door actuator just below?
Dan, great video, thx. Ref: 2013 Ford F150 Platinum: Does the driver-side Blend Door Actuator, control which vents the AC air comes out of, i.e. floor, defrost, dash, or a combination? On the driver's side, I get cold air from the defrost, and/or floor but not the dash vent.
thanks for watching. I'm pretty sure it controls temperature, but I'm not 100% sure. In the videos I watched, most people were having a problem with the temperature not changing, or clicking when they tried to change it. I would suggest checking a manual or researching in some of the forums. I know there is another actuator under the dash, near the gas pedal, you could check that one too. Doesn't look like it would be near as hard to replace. I normally get the service manuals for my vehicles, but haven't gotten one for this truck. I've been lucky to find all the info I've needed online.
Can I just unplug it till I can fix it its winter now and it goes on for a couple sec then goes away
Amazing video. I have watched it 3 times now and am going to begin this job this weekend. You mention in the video that you heard the blend door near the gas pedal moving. My clicking noise seems to be coming from that area. Is there an actuator near the gas pedal that I should be replacing or is the one in the video the only one down there ?
There is an actuator near the gas pedal, but the one that I replaced in the video was my issue, you just have to listen to it up close and you should be able to tell. Fortunately, the one near the gas pedal is pretty easy to access. I have not had to change that one yet.
@TheDeeVee I wonder with so many repeat actuators failing (teeth failing at least even when properly centered, not the electrical side FordTech mentioned), if there’s anything that can be done to grease/lubricate the actual doors that might be seizing if you have the whole dash out.
Tony, I think that actually is part of the problem. I'm sure over time dirt and dust get into there and gunk things up, making the doors harder to move, and putting more stress on the gears. I'm not sure about how to get in there and clean and re grease them though. They are in a tight spot and seem to be sealed. If I end up having to replace another one, I'll dig a little more and see if it's possible.
Your video helped quite a bit sir. My only problem is that I have a center console with gear shift and all that good stuff. I had to take out seats in order to remove floor ductwork that runs under the seats. Then my next problem is that there is ductwork below a/c controls that pushes air to rear vents of center console. That left me virtually no wiggle room to work with blend actuator. I nipped a piece of the lip on the duct the is for floor duct work. This helped to get actuator out, but then electrical connection was hard to remove. This was the hardest part of the entire job. Removing/Reinstalling actuator caused me a lot of grief as I nearly put a bat to this stupid truck because of it. All in all from start to finish I put in roughly 7 hours by myself. Keep in mind I'm mechanically challenged!!! Ford can do a better job with location and access to this stuff.
2010 F150 Supercrew FX4
A lot o the comments were helpful, so thanks to everyone posting.
@AftermathRGV
How did you remove the duct piece which goes to the center console rear vents? I'm stuck there at the moment..
@@brendenhunter533 You need to remove entire center console, remove both front seats, and roll back the carpet in order to get floor duct work out.
You will also need to remove center brackets underneath the dashboard. These are small brackets. I believe the carpeting that was there towards front of center console and underneath dashboard needs to be cut.
I have all of that done. After tearing out the Y-shaped duct under the carpet, I see two ducts, one rectangular, and the other directly above it and oval shaped. The oval shaped duct is blocking my access to the actuator screw on the driver side, but it's also connected to the fan location actuator, so I'm currently at a loss as to how to remove it.
@@brendenhunter533 From what I remember the vent underneath the glovebox was trimmed a bit to give me access(this was to the right of the oval vent you mention, its just a vent for the passengers feet). A crowbar was used to lift the airbox under the glovebox giving me very limited access to the actuator. I had to push the oval part up as much as possible at the same time (which is not a lot) and shove my hand back towards the actuator. It has a disconnect clip on the back side of the actuator which is a pain to release, but possible with patience. Your basically going to have to yank out actuator once you have it disconnected with the above steps. It took me half day just on the actuator. There is no additional slack on the wiring for actuator so you will have to be patient in putting it back in.
I found that putting an 8mm driver bit into a 1/4 ratchet wrench. Then tape the back of the bit so it wont fall out. Awesome diy mini socket.
Hey I changed both of my and I can get it to work any suggestions?
Are the 2 actuators (Behind the radio and passenger foot well) the same actuators? So I have this same issue on my 2013 with Dual climate control. I just replaced the actuator behind the radio and came to realize that was not the problem and I am not redoing that to pull the actuator I installed out again. So I have the actuator that that came out behind the radio that I know now is still good. My question is, can I use the actuator I pulled from behind the radio and replace the pass foot well actuator with that one?
The one I replaced in the video, and the one behind the radio are the same, so yeah, it should work fine.
Hi great video! Just to clarify your truck has three Actuator? This one. One behind the radio and one by the gas pedal correct?
I have a 2010 Ford f150 the AC is working on the left side but not the right side right side stays the right side won't change that from cold to hot it's a blend door for that switch where's that located
Question when u started the car up after you replaced the part the squealing sound from the one by the gas pedal is my issue I have the knocking when I first start car and it goes away but the squealing stays and I traced back to behind pedal should I replace both or just the lower to see if that fixes my issue
Well, the squealing is something I have not encountered, but If you think it is from the one by the pedal, I would definitely replace it first, as it is pretty easily accessible. If you are still getting the clicking after that, it's probably one of the ones behind the dash and you'll have to replace it. Go the path of least resistance first.
Great video, thank you. About to tackle this on my 2008 Expedition. What is the part number of the OEM part?
The part I used is Motorcraft part # YH1933. Double check to make sure it is the right one for your vehicle though.
I have a issue and I’ve tried to find it and cannot run it down! I have heat and ac, I have full speed on the blower 1-4 , I have the mode change. But I have little too zero air coming out of any vent on any mode. Blower motor is brand new and runs like a hurricane I can’t figure it out please help! It’s about to be summer in Oklahoma🤣
It's crazy how a part that seems to fail a lot (had mine replaced twice under warranty) and now have to do it again but out of warranty. It's crazy how they put it in such a inaccessible place to fix.
I have a 2011 f150 with dual climate control. My truck is making the clicking sound behind the radio when I start it, but I can still get the temperature in the vents to go from hot to cold. The passenger side will only blow out of the dash vents and not the floor but the temperature will go from hot to cold. Any suggestions?
Neil, if the actuator behind the dash is clicking, you are going to have to replace it at some point. I posted of video of that process too. It's much easier than the bottom one. As far as the vent issue, I'm not sure if that will fix it or not. there might be another actuator for that. I would replace the clicking one first and see.
At the 16:51 mark in the video, you describe how to access the rear screw on the actuator. My problem comes from a second vent duct, oval in shape, directly above the rectangular duct. The upper duct is attached to the fan zone selector actuator, so I don't think it can be removed. What do you recommend? My F-150 is a 2010 Lariat super crew. I'm wondering if, for the 2011+ models, they didn't have that upper duct.
What did you end up doing? Having the same problem.
@@kpdelaune same problem. What did you end up doing? Lol
nice watch. what kind is that?
I have a piece of duct work on top of the vent shown that attaches to the under seat duct work. I can't get even close to access without some how getting that piece of duct out. Anyone know how to get it out.
@Paul Esling
Did you find out how to remove that other duct? I'm stuck on that piece currently..
I'm having a real hard time with mine. 2013 FX4, there air duct to the left of the actuator which makes it impossible to get on the left side. On the right as I take the crowbar and pry it, there's no room to get the actuator out. Seats are off, floor vent is off. All this work and nothing to show for it. Any help?
Carlos, without seeing what you are talking about, it's hard to say. As you can see in my video, I didn't have any duct work on the left side of the actuator. I did have the plastic piece that I ended up cutting off.
Automotive technician here.... This is the process I use to replace these stupid actuators.
Pro tip : NEVER USE DOORMAN PARTS.... UNLESS YOU WANT TO DO IT AGAIN!!
I just did one of these, and charges 14.5 hours. Service writer was pissed that I got it done in 3 hours. But, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
so I have a question you seem knowledgeable and I’ve replaced this exact part on my truck I have a 2010 f 150 raptor and it blows heat on the driver side the passenger side does heat and ac but the drive side blows straight heat and I’ve replaced this actuator and I replaced the one behind the dash so now I’m lost and wondering if it is the blend door itself that is broke how do I found out if that’s it, do I have to take the whole hvac unit out or what any help?
@@matthewjenkins2753 if you've replaced both Drivers and Passenger side actuators, then the most likely cause is a broken blend door. If I'm correct, you can buy the entire HVAC assemby. It will require removal of the dash panel. But to be sure, you'd have to remove the drivers side actuator, and manually turn the door. You'll know if it's broken by the light resistance you can feel.
Hope that helps.
@TheDeeVee Is there an actuator on the actual driver’s side? It looks like you’re working on the passenger side.
Yeah, I was working on the one in the middle unit, that is on the passenger side, but there is one on the driver's side, up behind the gas peddle. I don't have that truck anymore, so I can't take a pic of the driver side one.
I just had it changed. Lasted 2 weeks, then started clicking again. Any thoughts?
did u see that there is a rib in the middle of the lower air duct and it is two pieces. what i did was to bend either the top or bottom half sideways and pry the air duct down. so the center air duct will cave in in the middle. plus I use heat gun to heat the air duct makibg it more flexable. this gives you extra 10mm clearance and much easier to remove the part out without cutting out anything. another is the driver side screw. I made an extra low profile 8mm 12 point socket with a thin and long handle weld togethet. then i remove the that screw from pasenger side.
After doing this operation yesterday, I went out and the truck was completely dead. Even the remote door locks wouldn't work. Is there something that I need to reset. I took the fan motor fuse out for one minute yesterday as was mentioned and that seemed to reset just fine, but I can't figure out why the truck is dead this morning?
I would trouble shoot all your connections, beyond that, I'm not sure. It should not affect the other stuff. Sorry.
Loved the video. I decided to tackle the job. Replaced the lower actuator with a new Ford part. For some reason, I decided to disconnect my battery after I had it all apart with the failed actuator out. ( I had read somewhere that you definitely did not want to power the actuator without it first being installed). It had failed at the 10 o’clock position so I followed your advice, took the old actuator apart and used the large gear to set my blend door by hand into the correct position. The new one slipped right in. I buttoned everything up only to find the new actuator searching (clicking). I read about calibrating the unit, followed the instructions but to no avail. Any possibility of a bad part from Ford or is there something else I’m missing. Thanks again. Update! After examining my repair, I found out, for some reason, disconnecting the battery caused the upper blend door motor to lose its mind and start clicking. I have read that is a possibility in other threads here. Replaced it also. Much easier than the lower one. All back together and everything is working fine. Thanks again! Your video saved me a butt load of cash.
Glad you got it all worked out.
Do you mean the one behind the dash? I had the one behind the glove box and radio clicking for a while, but it would quit after a minute or so. Today I replaced the battery and now this one is clicking continuously. So, I will replace both. I tried to disconnect the battery again, but clicks continuously, but the one behind the glove box still quits after a minute but the other just keeps clicking and it 100 degrees outside and no cold air just blows hot.
Had both upper and lower actuators replaced, but after everything was put back together they still didn’t work right. Come to find out the climate control module was bad, and after it was replaced everything worked fine the module was two hundred and something. This is on a dual control, flow thur, 2012 Ford F-150 platinum.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 when i put the heater ON no warm air comes out what Actuator would be causing this?
Lower or upper?
How do you know if the problem is with the upper blend door? You're replacing the lower blend door. I have heat on the driver's side and nothing but cold air on the passenger side. Do you know the answer? Upper or lower blend door. Thanks
I knew which one needed to be replaced because I could hear it clicking. I'm pretty sure the passenger side one is the upper, but you might want to double check.
I think I have a similar problem when I turn on heater I only get heat on passenger side vents and the driver side vents I get cold air my question is which actuator I have to change to fix that issue?
Did you figure out which actuator? Have same problem.
I just did and I removed the everything dash the box a/c take me 1 day completely
Just cut it and glue it back...im doing that, thanks for the vid 👍 im starting this tomorrow...🤢
First, thanks for the video. You explained there are two of these actuators, upper and lower. I have a 2012 Lariat and the problem I've noticed is the drivers side heat works but the passenger side isn't heating, its putting out cold AC and no matter how high I put the temperature up, there is no heat. Is this the problem you had with your truck that the actuator (upper or lower) caused?
Thanks for watching the video. The issue that I was having with my truck was the actuator clicking when I would start the truck. It was very obvious which one was clicking each time. From what I understand, if the temperature is not changing when you adjust the thermostat, it's the actuator not working properly because it's not moving the blend door.
@@Bamali would it be the lower or upper actuator?
@@crunchytacosupreme9371 This video was for the lower one. I have a link in the description for the upper one. Both of them made the same clicking noise when I would turn on the truck. You just have to listen carefully and you can tell which one is making the noise.
The tab you said that don't attach to anything... Attaches to the main blend door to the rear.
Oh, gotcha. I don't have the rear vents, so that makes sense. Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 2010 Platinum and there's a loud clicking sound coming from behind the radio. Is it that or is it the dvd/CD player.
Mine was clicking on start up, then would stop after a minute, but eventually it would not stop clicking. I finally had to pull the fuse to the climate control. That is a good way to check the source. If you pull the fuse to the climate control and the clicking goes away, it's probably the actuator. The good news is, the one behind the radio is the easier one. It's a tight space, but with a little patience, a pretty easy job. The one on the bottom is much more involved.
Check out this video for replacement of the one behind the radio. He does some great videos.
ruclips.net/video/6hM4PTJ8PNs/видео.html
@@Bamali I was just about to ask for that video. Great thanks! So there's two separate one's is there to separate fuses also. For climate control.
@@puttching72 If you have a dual zone climate control system, yes, there are two, one for the passenger side and one for the driver's side. This video shows the driver's side. It's a much more involved process, but hopefully my video helps. The video I posted the link to is for the passenger's side. Much easier. There is one fuse for the climate control, and it is in the box under the dash on the passenger side. I don't remember off the top of my head which one it is, but it will be in your owner's manual. It differs by model year. I think mine was 46 or 47? Let me know if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to help.
What years is this good for ?
I recently replaced the top actuator… right behind the radio… it was part #YH1933… so the bottom is the same actuator?
Yep. You can double check with the parts guys too.
Thanks for the video. Any recommendations??? I have replaced this 3
times on my 2011 f150 and have finally found that the hole that the
actuator goes into has been gnarled so it will not grab to turn. It
then skips and starts clicking, eventually breaking the actuator. Any
advise on what I can do? I was thinking about using a small file and
trying to make the "teeth" inside the hole deeper so they are not
rounded off. Thanks for any help.
I'am about to change the upper one behind the stereo unit for the 4th time for the clicking noise/2011 F150 P.O.S.. I'll have to use a mirror and check to see how mine looks from what you described, hope that's not the case.
Aaron, I'm not sure what to tell you. If you can get in there to clean up the teeth a little bit, that might help, but not sure. Worth a shot though.
@@tylerlawing7845 I hope its not the case. Its so frustrating. This last actuator lasted 6 days and started clicking again.
@@Bamali Thanks, Im not sure what to do either. Guess I will just live with the clicking until I trade it in and trade it in the winter since it doesnt click when its on the heat.
@@aaronbarker6272 I just changed mine out yesterday. The box the act. shaft goes into rotates almost 45*, the act. rotates roughly 180*. Take the bad act. apart and take out the spline shaft, put the spline shaft into the box and set the box to the middle position. Plug in the new act and set your AC nob to middle position of hot/cold. This should line up the box spline to act. spline and the bolt mount hole perfectly. I believe what was happening was the the box spline was near it's "wall" cause the act. to try and keep going even though the box spline was causing it to stop which was breaking teeth after initial install. Make sense? I'm a few beers deep hahaha.
How do i know if the noise i am hearing in my dash is from the UPPER or LOWER Blend Door Acuator before i dig into the repairs?
You just have to listen carefully, get close to the dash and you should be able to tell. For me it was pretty obvious. If in doubt, replace the upper one first. It's the easiest. I have a link to my video on that one in the description. You should be able to tell though.
@@Bamali thank you for such a quick response! I believe it's the upper one but assume the lower one will go out soon enough too lol! I am confident that we'll get this done with your video help! Thank you so much
@@KateEricksen I'm glad I was able to help. Hopefully you won't have to deal with the lower one.
@@KateEricksen place your fingers on the actuator to feel the clicking in order to determine which one is defective.
At 32:30 I tried to use the old gear to turn the grooves to 2 o clock but the gears wouldn't move like yours did
@Mike Havens Did you find your A/C doors were seized? Or did you find something else. I don’t want to replace the actuator only to find out the doors were seized. Is that what wore out your motor/gears in the actuator?
@@tonycarroll6183 I honestly don't know yet and am waiting on a buddy to help me out that knows a thing or two...ill keep you posted
Why not cut the shaft on dorman part?
I just went to my local Walmart and got a camping propane heater I don’t have 5 hours to bend my back under my dash 😓
That's one way to do it. lol
Can you please put a link to the Ford Hack guy?
It's in the video description. Check him out, he makes great videos.
Do not need to remove seats even for the flow through console. You cut the ducting going to the back seats with a saw and then glue it back together. Saves removing seats and carpet.
Is the top actuator the same as the bottom one
Yeah, same part. Just double check with the parts guys to make sure for your year.
Dude made a movie out a freaking piece replacement ... I fell asleep at minute 10...
Hi, I just had two actuators put in my f150 the upper and lower ones, and their not adjusted right. Local mechanics did it, Ford wanted 2100.00 to do it, and the local garage charged me 700.00, and did a great job, but if their not calibrated out of the box it guess, and they came from a ford dealer can they be put on a computer or some other piece of equipment to get them working like they did when it was new. It only has 42,000 on it, and it’s a 2012 Ford F-150 Platinum with dual controls and a flow thru console...any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated...thank you.
When you turn on the key, they go through a quick self calibration. I didn't have to do anything with mine after I put them in. I don't have the shop manual, so I can't say for sure if there is a manual calibration method. I would suggest checking on the F-150 forums to see if anyone else might be able to help. Sorry I don't have a good answer for you on that issue.
TheDeeVee thanks so much for your reply I really appreciate it. I had read somewhere in all my research in this matter to hold the power and defrost down at the same time then let off power and press it again, and that would put it in diagnostic mode, which I did, but actually what did it was hit the defrost button twice, the the fan speed bars starts going up and down for about 10 sec then throws out a code if something is wrong....which my codes were 10/81/11 and I have no idea what those numbers mean or how to find out. I’ve called several Ford dealers, but they don’t want to help...not even the dealer I bought it from back in 2012 at a price tag of 64,000.00 anyway this is definitely my last Ford, and I’ve owned a bunch. I usual like to get 100,000 on my vehicles before I sell them, but I don’t think this one will make it...GMC here I come baby.
Dan,
What was the failure mode? My truck failure mode is: Or all the way cold or all the way hot. Nothing in between. It does the same for driver or passenger side, but can do it independently one side can be in Full Hot and the other in Full Cold. Do you think the problem is the Blend Door? Also, you mention that there are two actuators. One on top and one on the bottom. What is the purpose of each?
Thanks
Jose, My issue was that every time I started my truck, the actuator motor would start making a clicking sound. This is because they go through a calibration every time you start the truck, and the gears break or wear down, so they just start clicking. I actually had to pull the fuse to the A/C system because as long as the truck was running it would click, even if the A/C was off. If you have a dual zone system, there are two blend door actuator motors, one is behind the radio on top, and the other is the one on bottom that I replace in this video. I have actually had to replace both. The one behind the radio was pretty easy compared to this one. My understanding is that if you don't have the dual zone system, you just have the one behind the radio. Check out the link I included in the description of the video. He talks about troubleshooting the hot only, or cold only issue. I hope this helps you.
My top one did not make a clicking sound.. it just blow cold on the passenger side. The top actuator is for the passenger side and the bottom is driver side for the dual climate control.
Note on the seat bolts. They are rated to be torqued ONCE. When you remove those bolts, buy new ones.
oh please
Did you have to remove the center console?
No, I didn't. Unbolting the seats and moving them back gave me enough space to pull the carpet back and remove the under floor duct. I don't have the flow through floor console though. Mine has the fold down jump seat in the middle.
Great thanks for the video!