I left my carrera crosscity in my loft for 2 years and I plugged it in to see if it would work and there was no red light on the charger so I was just about to get rid of the battery and buy a new one but thought I'd see if someone had tried to fix it on RUclips. Came across this video, bought a power supply and it actually worked within 5 minutes it started to change again. Thanks for this video
Whilst technically its a bad thing to do, if you have enough technical knowledge and know the exact reason for the depleted cells its something I have done many times. I have many items and batteries that are left to deplete naturally through lack of use sometimes over a few years using a regulated PSU set approximately 10% above the battery voltage is enough to fool a regulated charger to switch on. I remember years ago when you could get unregulated chargers that gave out a charging voltage and current regardless of the battery state.
Hi, I bought a 52v e-bike battery however, it did not come with a charger. I tried a charger that I already had at home and there was a big spark. The pin inside the charging port looks melted. I suspect the fuse has also blown. Could you please link a video of how to change the charging port or explain the process? Also, is there anything else in the battery that may have broken that I would need to replace?
Sorry I don't think I've got one on that! But there will be plenty on RUclips if not from me. Also, BMS could have failed, cells should be protected but you'd need to check them all with a multimeter just in case.
I've revived lithium battery packs for power tools that way that I have gotten from public recycling deposit bens by opening them up and then using a variable DC power supply gently charged them back high enough that the factory charger can charge it again. But I would never recommend anyone do this.
Wanted to thank you for providing all of access to your knowledge. I had a question ...I have a brand new 48v ebike and had not ridden it for over a year since my last charge because i injured my knee very soon after i purchasedit. I went to ride again recently and battery appeared to be dead as the display wouldnt power up so i attempted to recharge the battery. However after charging for a day nothing changed. Aventon website mentions reviving a battery that had been sitting thru a number of steps essentially charging battery while it is on the bike and turning display on. Is this considered safe? Is this normal situation for a new bike that had been sitting in garage for a year? Thank you for your advice in advance...
Hiya it's never safe to revive a battery, but it can be done - I did a video on how not to revive your battery, it's ok the channel somewhere. To be 100% safe, the only option is to buy a new one unfortunately. Kind regards Darsh
My samsung celled ebike batteries one 48v charges only to 80% and the 52v betaeen 80% & 100% both acting up at the same time. I changed the bms in thw 52v to a new 50amp one and it only charged to 80%. Reinstalled to original one and it xharged to 100% but it started to drain faster than normal. I think its the charger more than the battery as it isnt that old
You would have to not start at 1v and slowly work your way up to 54.6v ish, just make sure you don't do it at 0.1-0.5amps and don't keep an eye on cells getting hot
so let's say hypothetically if I had a 72v battery that is reading 34v and the bike won't turn on or charge would a 60v bench power supply be enough to potentially recover it? and how many amps should I charge it at if something like this were to happen?
A 72v battery is empty at 60v and full at 84v, so theoretical 0.1a for a very long time would charge it but if there are dead cells groups involved and every group isn't even voltage wise, it could just set on fire!
Hi! Great video! I really didn't understand if i should revive it or not but the thing is i have a Windgoo bike that i bought used, the owner gave it to me fully charged, i used it for about 15-16km and ran out of battery. When i plugged it in the charger LED went red and seemed to charge for about 2 hours before going to green, which seemed odd because it should usually take 4-6 hours. After that i turned on the bike and the battery indicator lights up for about 3 seconds and then turns off, showing that it has no charge at all. It seems to me that the battery was charged a long time ago and when it went flat, it went undervoltage but i really don't know. Do you recommend to me to revive it this way? Should i get a new one? Thanks
You should never do it this way! Unfortunately it sounds like you've got dead cells... Windgoo batteries do fail sadly, I have a video of one on my channel 👍
Hello sir. Out of curiosity and hypothetically, if I had a 48v ebike battery that had been left in storage for some time and would not currently take a charge, how many volts would a power supply hypothetically need to provide to get the ebike charger to take over?
theoretically, and at about 0.1amps, monitoring temperatures and voltages of each cell group, about 40v would kick start things. if one of said theoretical cell groups were dead/not taking a charge/getting hot, then putting power into said group could cause a real fire, though.
@@EbikeRepairs Hmm. Ofcourse in theory I would have to monitor closely and be prepared to possibly contain a lithium light show. The main problem for this hypothetical being that I do not have a current regulated power supply that would provide the necessary voltage. I would either need to find another way, possibly disassembling the pack to charge/balance cells individually then reassemble. Or find myself a power supply up to the task. Unless you're aware of another way? Regardless, your video was very informative and I thank you very much for indulging my curiosity.
theoretically, blasting it with the charger for 30 seconds or so, but from not the charge port would do the same thing, but be quite unsafe. if you were quick enough you could then plug the charger into the charge port and magically have a working battery pack again... if we didn't live in a world where lithium batteries were dangerous
Hmm. Just trying to revive a Pendleton battery that's been in my container for a couple of years. When I switch the charger on the the red light comes on. Great I thought,then 30 seconds later green comes on.Maybe it's dead. Pity,they ain't cheap.I'll follow your advice and avoid setting the house on fire. They ain't cheap either! Thanks.
I need to recommend myself against doing this for the safety of everyone in thie community. Thank you for your kind warnings and prompt guidance towards saving 200USD/
Good info, thanks. 36v battery from a Murtisol bike, doing diagnosis for a friend. I think these are low end/price bikes, but I have no experience with E Bikes. 36v 6 amp hours, made by ZhenLong Battery. I'd say this bike sat for many months. Charger is new, its 36v output of 42v 2amp. Tested charger output at 2.5mm plug, its right on 42v. Charged battery for some hours, green light came on, only 16 volts at battery terminals. So this does not seem like a sleeping problem. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I suspect there will be many batteries like these as bikes sit over winter, either out in the cold or even indoors with too fuu or too low charges. Bought a couple second hand bikes that only charge to 49v out of a possible 48vnominal 54.6V maximum. Planning on replacing the internal packs or bad cells, but more likely build one new pack and use the spares to fix the other pack. If they use the same cells. Interestingly the voltages will increase after being left sitting for several days, I saw 51 and 52v , but always 49v coming off the charger with 54.6 coming from charger. I never seem to get the normal problems like most people
My battery was not turning on or charging but accidentally Spark the positive And Then it started charging and turning wonder is this what I did? I don't know I'm having so many issues still... It would be really nice if you could Pm me to be safer.
For this 36v battery pack, hypothetically, you'd set it to 5v 0.1a and increase up to around 30-35v over a long period of time until the original charger could take over. But you shouldn't ever do it...
Currently awaiting customer service from ANCHEER after a $510 potential fuck up where the battery killed itself after a twenty minute test run. Charger light is green, battery shows full capacity, but the damn bike will not turn on, even the horn and headlamp isn't getting power. With any luck they just send a new one and I may even be within warranty rights to crack open the old one for potential home repairs and keep it as a backup, but I really don't want to wait an extra month should the whole bike need to be returned and replaced. Nor can I write it off as an accident and just by a new battery bc even on the cheap end they're half the price of a whole other bike 😂 having tested every online troubleshooting trick, the only option left is wait for customer support and pray for the best or fuck with the battery myself right here. But y'know what, this is what happens when you go against your own judgement on a whim that at the time sounded like a great idea, only to end in a shit show.
On a bright note, Customer Support called me back without having left a message not twenty minutes after the call, and forwarded everything to the actual company in China. So that's a huge thanks to the lady who picked up and provided that little bit of hope needed to hold out..
@@EbikeRepairs They offered to send a new battery to my home address last week and it has yet to arrive, but.. I did get impatient and open the battery case to find a melted 30 amp fuse, so a $6 5-pack of fuses for repairs on a roughly $200 battery feels pretty good! Only problem is the fuse didn't blow, the metal contacts started melting, so it is a fire concern. But, with nearly 150 miles on it since and only needing to remove and clean the partially melted replacement fuse once, I'd say this is information the company really should make more readily available (if there weren't liability issues and people wanting to sue when they fail a home repair on a battery and have a lithium fire go up in their junk xD)
Cut out the fuse holder and replace with a name brand reliable fuse holder! Melty connections are usually caused by high resistance, loose fitting connections
@@EbikeRepairs Three weeks and nearly 300 miles later, the battery is still alive without needing to replace anything since and ANCHEER can politely suck my balls! Completely ghosted me when I asked for a shipping number two weeks after saying they'd ship it, no battery arrived, and after this long it probably isn't happening. But I very much appreciate the advice, may do just that soon enough!
My eBike (48V, 15A) turns off after about 300 meters of riding, and I can only turn it on again after a hard reset (turning the battery Off-On using a key). I decided to measure the voltage on the battery and saw 72 volts. Can you help me figure out what's going on?
72volts likely means your multimeter batteries are failing. Replace batteries/check with another meter just to be sure. A 48v battery should never read that high...
Great video : i really do like this guy. For the record : i will not be doing this at home... he advices. 😅😂👍🏾💡. Nope theoretically and for science projects... let's see. . "... don't try this at home "! I won't do this🫣🤫
you obviously know your batteries and charging etc but boy rather sloppy workmanship bro... anyways good info with sarcasm. other tubes have shown that it can be done without doomsday warnings. Just a matter of tricking the charger to think there are juice inside cells still to kick in charge.
I can't encourage this sort of thing... It really can be very dangerous, but for example if they were at 2.95v and the cut-off for BMS is 3.0v this is bordering on kinda safe to do. If the cells are at 0.1v and you try and blast them, they could actually get hot and if left unattended, combust (which is super bad) You gotta trick the BMS into thinking cells are happy, not the charger though.
I left my carrera crosscity in my loft for 2 years and I plugged it in to see if it would work and there was no red light on the charger so I was just about to get rid of the battery and buy a new one but thought I'd see if someone had tried to fix it on RUclips. Came across this video, bought a power supply and it actually worked within 5 minutes it started to change again. Thanks for this video
Theoretically, of course! This is not safe to do
@@EbikeRepairs
wow, thankyou i am badly held back by my bad knees i use an electric bike and took your advise and my batt is now charging again thank you so much
Glad it helped!
Saved me money and time on my e-bike that I let die over winter. The Battery charger is able to charge the battery again! Thank you!
That's great news that not doing this has not fixed your bike! 🤣
worked for me blew up my house just like i wanted thanks for the tuip
@@1DumbSquirrel I'm glad I could help you to not do any of the steps in this video
Whilst technically its a bad thing to do, if you have enough technical knowledge and know the exact reason for the depleted cells its something I have done many times. I have many items and batteries that are left to deplete naturally through lack of use sometimes over a few years using a regulated PSU set approximately 10% above the battery voltage is enough to fool a regulated charger to switch on. I remember years ago when you could get unregulated chargers that gave out a charging voltage and current regardless of the battery state.
Yes the video is not very everyone, but helpful for some!
i used a 12 volt charger in my dream lasr night and it worked in bringing batt back to life ... its alive!!!!!!
Incredible! the power of dreams :)
Hi, I bought a 52v e-bike battery however, it did not come with a charger. I tried a charger that I already had at home and there was a big spark. The pin inside the charging port looks melted. I suspect the fuse has also blown. Could you please link a video of how to change the charging port or explain the process? Also, is there anything else in the battery that may have broken that I would need to replace?
Sorry I don't think I've got one on that! But there will be plenty on RUclips if not from me.
Also, BMS could have failed, cells should be protected but you'd need to check them all with a multimeter just in case.
I've revived lithium battery packs for power tools that way that I have gotten from public recycling deposit bens by opening them up and then using a variable DC power supply gently charged them back high enough that the factory charger can charge it again. But I would never recommend anyone do this.
Indeed. The cells undergo permanent degredation below 1v I believe.
Respect appreciate your content as always bro
I appreciate that
Wanted to thank you for providing all of access to your knowledge. I had a question ...I have a brand new 48v ebike and had not ridden it for over a year since my last charge because i injured my knee very soon after i purchasedit. I went to ride again recently and battery appeared to be dead as the display wouldnt power up so i attempted to recharge the battery. However after charging for a day nothing changed. Aventon website mentions reviving a battery that had been sitting thru a number of steps essentially charging battery while it is on the bike and turning display on. Is this considered safe? Is this normal situation for a new bike that had been sitting in garage for a year? Thank you for your advice in advance...
Hiya it's never safe to revive a battery, but it can be done - I did a video on how not to revive your battery, it's ok the channel somewhere.
To be 100% safe, the only option is to buy a new one unfortunately.
Kind regards Darsh
My samsung celled ebike batteries one 48v charges only to 80% and the 52v betaeen 80% & 100% both acting up at the same time. I changed the bms in thw 52v to a new 50amp one and it only charged to 80%. Reinstalled to original one and it xharged to 100% but it started to drain faster than normal. I think its the charger more than the battery as it isnt that old
Weird! Possibly cells out of balance? What voltage is the charger outputting?
If I am not trying to revive a 48v battery, would I also not need for my adjustable power supply to be 48v?.....
I want ad that this battery is basically unused, just sat for....more than 6 months....
You would have to not start at 1v and slowly work your way up to 54.6v ish, just make sure you don't do it at 0.1-0.5amps and don't keep an eye on cells getting hot
so let's say hypothetically if I had a 72v battery that is reading 34v and the bike won't turn on or charge would a 60v bench power supply be enough to potentially recover it? and how many amps should I charge it at if something like this were to happen?
A 72v battery is empty at 60v and full at 84v, so theoretical 0.1a for a very long time would charge it but if there are dead cells groups involved and every group isn't even voltage wise, it could just set on fire!
I wonder if pouring some isopropyl alcohol will help loosen the silicon on the base?
I will have to try that next time! Silicone is the bane of my existence opening batteries!
Nice! Will definitely not test this on my mother's dead bike battery!
Make sure you don't 🤣
Hi! Great video! I really didn't understand if i should revive it or not but the thing is i have a Windgoo bike that i bought used, the owner gave it to me fully charged, i used it for about 15-16km and ran out of battery. When i plugged it in the charger LED went red and seemed to charge for about 2 hours before going to green, which seemed odd because it should usually take 4-6 hours. After that i turned on the bike and the battery indicator lights up for about 3 seconds and then turns off, showing that it has no charge at all. It seems to me that the battery was charged a long time ago and when it went flat, it went undervoltage but i really don't know. Do you recommend to me to revive it this way? Should i get a new one? Thanks
You should never do it this way! Unfortunately it sounds like you've got dead cells... Windgoo batteries do fail sadly, I have a video of one on my channel 👍
Totally worked!!!
yay!
Hello sir. Out of curiosity and hypothetically, if I had a 48v ebike battery that had been left in storage for some time and would not currently take a charge, how many volts would a power supply hypothetically need to provide to get the ebike charger to take over?
theoretically, and at about 0.1amps, monitoring temperatures and voltages of each cell group, about 40v would kick start things. if one of said theoretical cell groups were dead/not taking a charge/getting hot, then putting power into said group could cause a real fire, though.
@@EbikeRepairs Hmm. Ofcourse in theory I would have to monitor closely and be prepared to possibly contain a lithium light show. The main problem for this hypothetical being that I do not have a current regulated power supply that would provide the necessary voltage. I would either need to find another way, possibly disassembling the pack to charge/balance cells individually then reassemble. Or find myself a power supply up to the task. Unless you're aware of another way? Regardless, your video was very informative and I thank you very much for indulging my curiosity.
theoretically, blasting it with the charger for 30 seconds or so, but from not the charge port would do the same thing, but be quite unsafe. if you were quick enough you could then plug the charger into the charge port and magically have a working battery pack again... if we didn't live in a world where lithium batteries were dangerous
Hmm. Just trying to revive a Pendleton battery that's been in my container for a couple of years. When I switch the charger on the the red light comes on. Great I thought,then 30 seconds later green comes on.Maybe it's dead. Pity,they ain't cheap.I'll follow your advice and avoid setting the house on fire. They ain't cheap either!
Thanks.
I need to recommend myself against doing this for the safety of everyone in thie community. Thank you for your kind warnings and prompt guidance towards saving 200USD/
Exactly - don't do it - but at least you know how!
There is a safe way to do this..
Ah yes ebike batteries...the scariest part of ebikes
Melty... Rusty... Overheating... Be careful!
Good info, thanks. 36v battery from a Murtisol bike, doing diagnosis for a friend. I think these are low end/price bikes, but I have no experience with E Bikes. 36v 6 amp hours, made by ZhenLong Battery.
I'd say this bike sat for many months. Charger is new, its 36v output of 42v 2amp. Tested charger output at 2.5mm plug, its right on 42v.
Charged battery for some hours, green light came on, only 16 volts at battery terminals. So this does not seem like a sleeping problem.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Probably low cells/dead cell group. Only way to check is to open it up and test with multimeter... But if you aren't safe it can be dangerous!
I suspect there will be many batteries like these as bikes sit over winter, either out in the cold or even indoors with too fuu or too low charges. Bought a couple second hand bikes that only charge to 49v out of a possible 48vnominal 54.6V maximum. Planning on replacing the internal packs or bad cells, but more likely build one new pack and use the spares to fix the other pack. If they use the same cells. Interestingly the voltages will increase after being left sitting for several days, I saw 51 and 52v , but always 49v coming off the charger with 54.6 coming from charger. I never seem to get the normal problems like most people
My battery was not turning on or charging but accidentally Spark the positive And Then it started charging and turning wonder is this what I did? I don't know I'm having so many issues still... It would be really nice if you could Pm me to be safer.
Sounds like BMS shorted - may need disconnecting or replacing!
Of course I would never do this but what setting did you have on the adjustable power supply?
For this 36v battery pack, hypothetically, you'd set it to 5v 0.1a and increase up to around 30-35v over a long period of time until the original charger could take over. But you shouldn't ever do it...
Thank you for not showing me that :)
No problem 😊
Thankyou I definitely will not be doing this immediately. I haven’t saved this video or anything ;)
Glad I could help
Currently awaiting customer service from ANCHEER after a $510 potential fuck up where the battery killed itself after a twenty minute test run. Charger light is green, battery shows full capacity, but the damn bike will not turn on, even the horn and headlamp isn't getting power. With any luck they just send a new one and I may even be within warranty rights to crack open the old one for potential home repairs and keep it as a backup, but I really don't want to wait an extra month should the whole bike need to be returned and replaced. Nor can I write it off as an accident and just by a new battery bc even on the cheap end they're half the price of a whole other bike 😂 having tested every online troubleshooting trick, the only option left is wait for customer support and pray for the best or fuck with the battery myself right here. But y'know what, this is what happens when you go against your own judgement on a whim that at the time sounded like a great idea, only to end in a shit show.
On a bright note, Customer Support called me back without having left a message not twenty minutes after the call, and forwarded everything to the actual company in China. So that's a huge thanks to the lady who picked up and provided that little bit of hope needed to hold out..
Unfortunately the ancheer bikes come in a lot for faults... Check all connections, maybe a fuse in the battery has blown?
@@EbikeRepairs They offered to send a new battery to my home address last week and it has yet to arrive, but.. I did get impatient and open the battery case to find a melted 30 amp fuse, so a $6 5-pack of fuses for repairs on a roughly $200 battery feels pretty good! Only problem is the fuse didn't blow, the metal contacts started melting, so it is a fire concern. But, with nearly 150 miles on it since and only needing to remove and clean the partially melted replacement fuse once, I'd say this is information the company really should make more readily available (if there weren't liability issues and people wanting to sue when they fail a home repair on a battery and have a lithium fire go up in their junk xD)
Cut out the fuse holder and replace with a name brand reliable fuse holder! Melty connections are usually caused by high resistance, loose fitting connections
@@EbikeRepairs Three weeks and nearly 300 miles later, the battery is still alive without needing to replace anything since and ANCHEER can politely suck my balls! Completely ghosted me when I asked for a shipping number two weeks after saying they'd ship it, no battery arrived, and after this long it probably isn't happening. But I very much appreciate the advice, may do just that soon enough!
Well how do you safely do it.Please tell...
Replace all cells, technically.
So this is a video on what not to ever do?
Correct!
My eBike (48V, 15A) turns off after about 300 meters of riding, and I can only turn it on again after a hard reset (turning the battery Off-On using a key). I decided to measure the voltage on the battery and saw 72 volts. Can you help me figure out what's going on?
72volts likely means your multimeter batteries are failing. Replace batteries/check with another meter just to be sure. A 48v battery should never read that high...
Straight up you are asking for it !
?
A very British video 😂
Isn't it just!
Any ideas? - ruclips.net/video/A_iaLka6FE0/видео.html@@EbikeRepairs
Failed charger or low voltage pack by the looks of it!
Great video : i really do like this guy. For the record : i will not be doing this at home... he advices. 😅😂👍🏾💡. Nope theoretically and for science projects... let's see. . "... don't try this at home "! I won't do this🫣🤫
Thank you!
Omg 😮
Don't do it!
🤙🏼🤙🏼
thanks!
you obviously know your batteries and charging etc but boy rather sloppy workmanship bro... anyways good info with sarcasm. other tubes have shown that it can be done without doomsday warnings. Just a matter of tricking the charger to think there are juice inside cells still to kick in charge.
I can't encourage this sort of thing...
It really can be very dangerous, but for example if they were at 2.95v and the cut-off for BMS is 3.0v this is bordering on kinda safe to do.
If the cells are at 0.1v and you try and blast them, they could actually get hot and if left unattended, combust (which is super bad)
You gotta trick the BMS into thinking cells are happy, not the charger though.
Get to the f point bro
I did (eventually)
Waste of 12 mins and 29 seconds 👎
You gotta stop watching at 30 seconds in!