✨ Bosch Oven Won't Heat🔥 - Easy Ignitor Replacement ✨
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- ✨ BOSCH OVEN WON’T HEAT - EASY FIX ✨
How to Easily replace a worn out Bosch oven igniter.
CLICK HERE TO ORDER A NEW OVEN IGNITOR: amzn.to/2yhax5g 🔥
Click Here to read an article on How To Fix Your Oven That Won’t Heat Up www.familyhandyman.com/projec...
Symptoms of a worn out igniter:
NEVER GETS HOT ENOUGH
TAKES HOURS TO BAKE ANY THING
UNEVEN COOKING
SMALL EXPLOSION AND DOOR FLIES OPEN
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Perfect explanation, thank you for adding the link to the part!
You bet! Thanks John😊
I'm so happy! My husband is out of town and the oven wasn't heating. I was able to diagnose the problem, and order and install the part! I have fixed a dryer before, but never a stove. Proud!
Great video; thank you! Was able to easily replace the igniter from my Bosch HGI8054UC/07 with the Electrolux part from Amazon. I did one slight change -- the wires from the back of the oven are each covered with an insulating sleeve -- I just moved that sleeve to the wires from the new igniter, before tucking all the wires back behind the oven plate. Such a great sound to hear the "whoosh" of the flame turning on again!
I really appreciate your doing this! Five minutes and $17.00 versus $200+ and a weeks wait for the repair guy. Makes super sense...
Nice job Scott. Worked like a charm. I probably would have bought a Bosch igniter for $300 so it was interesting to note your video that igniters are basically a bin part for a multitude of manufacturers. Saved myself a lot on the igniter by purchasing on amazon. Also saved on a repairman cost - $140 to come and look at the problem, then order inflated cost parts and then charge $100/hr to install with 1 hour minimum. Thanks.
Awesome job David😊👍
Thanks for the easy to follow instructions!
Marian K.
Great video. You just saved Thanksgiving and quite a few dollars by helping me fix it myself. Took about 30 minutes. The replacement igniter I ordered online thru Walmart. Cost $22.00. Had it shipped to store and it arrived in 3 days. Thank you!
+Tanya K.
Very Impressive👍😊😺
Great Vid Man! Thank you!
Fantastic video - everything in the video was so clear! It made ordering the new igniter and the right screw driver easy, and every step of the replacement was simple. I followed it to the letter, then tested the oven temp after the oven was all back together, and it was perfect. I am so pleased with the results! Thank you!!!
Thanks so much Bruce👍😊
Thanks for this video. My oven stopped last night, and with your help I took out the igniter and am fixing it myself. It would have cost me a lot of money for a repair man for a quick fix.
Thanks I bought an aftermarket ignitor for $30 Bucks OEM was over $100 .It worked fine Thank You
Awesome video - I ordered the ignitor.
Nice video and the picture quality was great! Thanks for the vid! Saved me a few bucks. If I see you at a bar I will buy you a beer!! :)
Thank you, Scott the Fixitguy! Just the information I needed.
Thanks Sally,
Should be a fairly easy repair.
Thank you so much bro you saved me a lot a money
Thank you!
Thank you.
Thank you! Made a small donation as a token of my appreciation
Thanks so much Matt😊
Very Helpful. Thank you.
You’re welcome😊👍
Thanks! Super helpful video! Bought ignitor for $30 compared to $130 on some sites and no cost for repair man. 15 minute fix!😀
I love it Andrea,
Great job😊😊😊
So this seems pretty straight forward and I did the same replacement on my gas dryer a few years ago. But just today both the broiler and the oven stoped ignighting. Is there any connection or do need to replace both igniters?
worked just like shown, awesome thank you!!
You are very welcome😊😊👍
Thank you for a good advice.
You’re welcome😊
I have a different model stove but with your walk threw I was able to swap it out
Thank you.
Did you use the same part?
Wish I read the comments before purchasing the igniter. I'm pretty sure I got ripped off since I paid $70.00 at an appliance parts store for the exact one in your video. However, the video was great. I fixed my oven thanks to you. My friends are pretty impressed and I'm feeling pretty happy that I didn't have to buy a new one or pay someone to come repair it! Thank you!!!
Nice job Shirley👍😊
Thanks for this! Did the fix myself in about 20 minutes
Nice job, Brian😊😊 Thanks again and please click the link to Subscribe: ▶️-Subscribe Here: ruclips.net/channel/UC7fBqy8806u1r0NpPv_fQ2w
great information . thanks
You’re welcome Donna
Nicely done. My problem is with the igniter in the upper oven of a Magic Chef, but it looks identical. eBay seems to have a number of igniters from decent sellers at under $20, so this job is in my near future. 😀
Thanks Mark,
It’s pretty easy👍
Hi there! I have a Bosch hgs235uc/02, i checked on internet and it seems the correct igniter would be Bosch 492429,
do you think the Bosch 492431 or the Supco SGR2431 would work? My model doesn't appear on their list, only the 492429 one, which cost a lot more
Thank you very much!
By the way Scott, I also replaced my Bosch bottom oven igniter with your assistance!
Very cool 👍
It’s so fun to fix it yourself 😊
bosch hgi8054uc igniter. I noticed you said it would last years. I've had the stove 4 years replaced one last year and now 6 months later replacing another. Thoughts?
DId it myself due to your video THank you. $25 vs $300 for last repair.
Nice job Patti
Thanks!!!
You’re welcome 😉
Thanks so much for this video. We used it a year ago to replace our igniter successfully. But stove is again not lighting, or it was heating up to temp but then not staying at temp. Igniter glows, but do you know what temp it needs to get to to light the gas? Using an infrared thermometer it looks like it's at 800-900 degrees. Is that enough to light it? Wondering if we again need a new igniter or if it's another problem.
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Hey Scott do you know a compatible Igniter for the broiler as well, I just did this for bake and worked great. Thanks for the video any help would be great. The Broiler ones are like $100 for bosch
Hi Peter,
I think you can use the same one for the broiler that you used for the bake
Really nice video. In my Bosch, ther were already two wire nuts attached, so that you only need to take those off. If you are as dumb as I am, and you pulled too hard trying to get the wires to separte, so that the you end up pulling the wire full out of the back, it turns out that, if you take the bottom drawer out, there is a small door held by one torx 20 screw behind which you will find the place to plug it back in. Sigh of relief.
Nice job Art, thanks for the good info.
The wires to my Bosch for this are very short, so this must be a re-edit of the old video. In your old video the wires were quite long. Here they are short like mine. Am I missing something? Did Bosch change the length of the wires? Struggling with this as I don't want to pull too hard thinking they are still long but stuck in there.
You can get behind the stove and remove the rear panel and do the wiring there👍
How do you put the door back on?
I have a bosch hgs7282uc gas oven model. Does that ignitor fits my old bosch model please?
Yep, all set👍
Hi - great video, thank you. My problem is that there is only one wire coming out of the oven to attach the igniter - mine has little attachments to couple the wires and the old igniter appeared to be plugged in to just one wire, the other one coming out of the igniter wasn’t attached. I installed the new igniter the same way but it’s not working at all. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Thanks Eric,
Can you send me a few pictures to scottthefixitguy@yahoo.com?
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Thank you so much for writing back. I actually figured it out! I was looking for a second wire to plug the igniter into, but I discovered that the wire from the igniter actually plugs directly into a post on the gas valve. It works now! Thanks again for your video, it was really helpful.
I used this to fix my Bosch oven. I did not cut and splice wires as the part connections are easily accessible in the back. Also it was an excuse to clean behind the oven.
Hello. Our oven is a HDI7283u/03. The only panel that can be removed is the one covering the convection fan, and nothing is inside it except the fan. There is no removable panel on the bottom, no hardware to remove at all. I'm thinking the ignitor is in the top. The gas line comes into the bottom, through a regulator, and the tube goes straight up and into the top. Would you have any hints on getting at this ovens igniter? Thank you.
Thanks Jeff,
Is it possible that that model has a electric element hidden below the bottom panel?
Do you think it runs are in 110 V or 220 V.
After igniting the over, should the pilot/igniter turn off ?. How long does the igniter filament stay on after the oven is on with blue flame ?. I don't know if this is a problem or not.
It will just stay on until the oven reaches the desired temperature .
Just to make sure I don't screw up something completely obvious (as I'll be attempting this repair soon) when connecting the wires from the new ignitor to the snipped wires coming out of the oven, is it obvious which wire goes with which? Does it matter?
Great question Jeremy,
It doesn’t matter which wire you use.
Either wire will work with either igniter wire.
Scott, many thanks for this. If the igniter is failing, could that explain why the gas ignites but it takes over a minute, no 'woosh', the flame is small, and it smells like not all of the gas is burning? No issues with the broiler or rangetop igniters.
That could explain it
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel Thank you, I'll buy the part and replace it following your video.
Great video. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!! that you mentioned you used PORCELAIN wire nuts to connect the spliced wires. Myr replacement part DID NOT COME with nuts -- it came with a male connector, expected to fit into the female connector accessible from behind the over. Those porcelain (or CERAMIC) nuts are heat resistant to 1000 degrees F. Also, you appropriately DID NOT cover them with regular electrical tape. Black tape would melt at 200 degrees F, and cause big problems. If you get a good connection, there's no need to tape. IF you feel the need to use tape (or join with crimps, by twisting, or heat sealing), YOU MUST USE heat resistant glass or other specialized tape to cover the join. What comes next are several observations on 'support-repair-services-and-official-Bosch-replacement-parts' NEWER Bosch models. Read as necessary. Sorry or the length. ::::::: INSTALLATION HASSLES AND SMOKE/FIRE COMMENT: Bosch has made replacing the igniter MUCH MORE DIFFICULT IN RECENT YEARS by shortening the wires between the igniter and connection, + adding a 2nd (largely unnecessary) box through which the wires travel to the connector. IN NEWER (post 2012-14) Bosch Gas ranges, THERE IS A SMALL, PROTECTIVE BOX BEHIND the 1st layer of firewall. It is almost impossible to get even the smallest plastic wire nut through the tiny (3/8" sq) hole in this box to fully protect the wire nuts. IF YOU JOIN WITH PLASTIC FIRE NUTS, they will not meet code and WILL ALMOST ASSUREDLY MELT -- even if pushed through the small round hole in the back of the oven). MELTING IN THIS ENCLOSED SPACE HAS A VERY HIGH POTENTIAL EITHER TO SMOKE OUT or START A FIRE inside the over AND (CRITICALLY) INSIDE THE BACK PANEL of the oven where ALL the wiring and circuitry resides. Even a small amount of smoke will kill the circuit board, a $250-$500 part ::::::: CHEAPER IGNITER COMMENT RE THICK, FIREPROOF WIRE JACKET: One other issue is that cheaper igniters (which I'm a fan of at 1/5 the cost) usually don't come with the added fireproof insulator cover that the factory part has. The easiest solutions, as far as I know, are: (A) do what you've done and make sure the wire goes behind the firewall; if doing this, I'd still prefer to pull the thick insulator cover forward and splice/join with ceramic nut BEHNID the insulator cover -- as far back toward the connector as possible (difficult on newer model ovens as the connector is toward the back left corner of the over, behind the firewall. ** OR ** REPLACING AT THE CONNECTOR: The following all are based on unclicking the old wire at the actual connection (accessed from behind the oven), and clicking in the new wire to the existing female connector. It requires the added hassle of accessing the back of the oven's wiring + fishing the new igniter cable through the front to the back., BUT it provides you with fresh wire all the way to the source connector. THIS CAN HELP if it appears one of the old igniter wires is burned/shorted (much more common that one might think). The way to confirm this is to cut the bad igniter wires close to the igniter and inspect the wires for blackening. ALSO, one can check to old wires (as mentioned in this video) to see if 110V are coming through BOTH wires. ::::::::: PROCESS: (A) If the new connector you ordered already has the secondary thick wire insulation jacket, CONGRATUATIONS! Remove the back panel of the oven to expose the wiring, fish the new connector wiring through, and simply unplug the old connector / plug in the new (nale) connector; then install the igniter inside the oven. ( B) If the new igniter doesn't have the thick outer insulator jacket, remover the old jackets from the old igniter, (unfortunately) cut the new igniter wire about 2-3 inches from the female end of the connector plug, put the old thick insulator jacket over the longer ends of new wires, and splice them back together; the splices can be connected near the the female end of the plug with wrapped wire nuts (behind the firewall), with ceramic wire nuts (extra, extra safe), or by twisting the wires together and then using high-heat tape to cover the exposed wire; finally, pull the thick insulator jacket back over the wire, and install the new igniter by clicking the male end of the new wire connector into place and attaching the new igniter into place inside the oven. (C) Cut the new igniter wires up against the male plug found on the new igniter, put the old thick insulators over the new wires, then crimp on a new male plug; pull the thick insulation back into place and complete the installation by clicking in the new plug and attaching the new igniter. (D) Ignore the thick insulator wire and hope like hell the new insulator wire cover has enough heat resistance. ::::::: FINAL WORD: In my experience, the new wires will be ok UNLESS for frequently use the over at or above 424 degrees F OR if you run the self-cleaning cycle more than once every 2 or 3 years -- self cleaning mode. techs will tell you, is an igniter-killer, regardless of the installation method you use.
Excellent info. Yep, self-cleaning should be renamed Self-Destruct😂
My igniter had failed due to a broken wire inside the insulation. Rather than splicing the new igniter with a porcelain nut into the fatigued wires, I bought OEM part and used the connectors accessible from the back of the stove.
Nice job Liz👍😊
Bosch is out of stock with their igniter do you know which other brand I can buy?
www.amazon.com/Supco-SGR2431-00492431-AP3674290-PS8722793/dp/B01D3DLPUE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
does the broiler on top have a seperate igniter too? Neither of mine will glow
It does have a separate igniter.
Could be both igniters have stopped due to being worn out or the oven got too hot and now you need to replace the hi-limit (fuse).
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@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel thank you for the reply
So what the next step if you don't get 110 volts to the baking ignitor? Is it automatically assumed to be the board even if the broiler ignitor lights?
It’s highly likely that the bake igniter relay on the board is no longer working even though the broiler relay is working.
So replacing the entire board should do the trick.
The Bosch manual says to make sure that the regulator is turned on. This appears to involve getting behind the oven which is more manual labor than I can handle. How do I know if it's the igniter or the regulator?
It’s the igniter. 100% Guarantee
@@ScottTheFixItGuyChannel It worked!!! Add me to the list of people who feel taller after watching this. We were surprised when the oven stopped working because it was only 2 years old, although it was a floor model. This also gave me the impetus to get some tools so that I could remove the old igniter. Thanks so much!!
Corey Wade thanks so much Corey😊😊😊
Does it matter which 2 white wire go with each other. ?
Either one is fine. There’s no polarity issue.👍
Scottthefixitguy Thanks !!!!’ For getting back to me. Appreciate that!!!! I love the internet for this very reason. Have a great day
@scottthefixitguy, I have a Bosch Bosch HGS445UC/02 slide in range. Can’t find the part. Can you help with that?
I did some research and came up with PartSelect Number PS8722793, Manufacturer Part Number 00492431, but I am a bit skeptical about the websites. Some sell for >$100 and the Amazon link shared in comments shows
The 20.00 Amazon one will work fine😊
Scottthefixitguy , I installed the SUPCO (Amazon) unit today on Independence Day, happy 4th by the way, it seems to be working fine. One concern I have is the unit that replaced which was a Norton 501A unit had heat shields covering the wires. The new unit just has the wires. Is that a cause for concern? I have pics, if you want them.
Scott any chance of replying to my last comment about heat shield cover the wires. It’s that fabric covering the actual wires. I have pics of that helps you. Appreciate it. Thanks
Hi I just want to see the wire attachment a little bit more. It was kind of glazed over.
You can attach either igniter wire to either wire from the oven👍
NO NO NO. The wire nuts will melt. THE SLEEVE OVER THE WIRE (IS THE INSULATION) WHICH NEEDS TO BE BELOW THE NUTS. AND NUTS TUCKED BEHIND IN A very very tight spot behind the wall. JMO. ( doing this now) This is second one in 18 months. B.S. ON BOSHE PRODUCT. for those that use it Daily!!! AT HIGHER THAN 350 DEGREES. LOL.
The wire nuts used are ceramic and can stand 1,000 degrees.