Did you have to remove the driveshaft at the rear axle or would it come out if you just removed the center bearing bracket and drop it down? To replace the transmission rear seal?
how much fluid dropped out when you pulled the shaft? I'm about to change this seal now and I'm on a flat surface... how much should i expect to drop out?
This is what I like to know. I haven’t performed this project yet, but soon will, but I’m worried that I will struggle getting the old seal out. I thought maybe a seal puller tool (looks like an ax shaped tool) would work, but the spline shaft protrudes out, making this type of tool useless.
@@richardjeun same here, I managed to find a tundra in the salvage yard and tried my attempts on there but unfortunately, the seal puller i had couldnt pull it out. Since my truck came from the rust belt, ill have to remove the entire rear housing and do it that way. However, i havent had a chance to do it. Not sure if i should find another seal puller or attempt removing the rear housing itself and press it out. BTW, did you manage to take yours out? Wish the original poster had recorded the entire process.
Yes, I did pull it out. It wasn’t that bad at all. All I used was a flathead screw driver. I can tell it has been replaced before because I can see marring on the metal where the seal seats the casing. I have an old screw driver and a small pry bar that I used to take it out. It’s okay to destroy the old one to get it out, which isn’t difficult; just don’t dig into your casing. I had a new seal to compare to go to a hardware store to look for a pipe fitting cap to place against the output seal so I can tap it into the casing with a hammer.
No, sorry, I don’t. Just get your VIN number and go to a Toyota dealer and ask for the transfer case output seal. They will confirm the part with you on their computer screen. If you tell them that it’s the last seal that your transmission has, they’ll know. It cost me less than $20 at the dealer. Make sure you change your carrier bearing too. If you’re planning on replacing your u-joints too, borrow a removal/installation tool for it, don’t use the hammering method! All three U-joints are the same size and part#. Good luck!
Did you have to remove the driveshaft at the rear axle or would it come out if you just removed the center bearing bracket and drop it down? To replace the transmission rear seal?
how much fluid dropped out when you pulled the shaft? I'm about to change this seal now and I'm on a flat surface... how much should i expect to drop out?
So you just pull the yoke out?
How did you go about pulling out and replacing the seal?
This is what I like to know. I haven’t performed this project yet, but soon will, but I’m worried that I will struggle getting the old seal out. I thought maybe a seal puller tool (looks like an ax shaped tool) would work, but the spline shaft protrudes out, making this type of tool useless.
@@richardjeun same here, I managed to find a tundra in the salvage yard and tried my attempts on there but unfortunately, the seal puller i had couldnt pull it out. Since my truck came from the rust belt, ill have to remove the entire rear housing and do it that way. However, i havent had a chance to do it. Not sure if i should find another seal puller or attempt removing the rear housing itself and press it out. BTW, did you manage to take yours out? Wish the original poster had recorded the entire process.
Yes, I did pull it out. It wasn’t that bad at all. All I used was a flathead screw driver. I can tell it has been replaced before because I can see marring on the metal where the seal seats the casing. I have an old screw driver and a small pry bar that I used to take it out. It’s okay to destroy the old one to get it out, which isn’t difficult; just don’t dig into your casing. I had a new seal to compare to go to a hardware store to look for a pipe fitting cap to place against the output seal so I can tap it into the casing with a hammer.
@@richardjeun Do you happen to have the part number for the seal by chance? The one I have on hand is # RO-43?
No, sorry, I don’t. Just get your VIN number and go to a Toyota dealer and ask for the transfer case output seal. They will confirm the part with you on their computer screen. If you tell them that it’s the last seal that your transmission has, they’ll know. It cost me less than $20 at the dealer. Make sure you change your carrier bearing too. If you’re planning on replacing your u-joints too, borrow a removal/installation tool for it, don’t use the hammering method! All three U-joints are the same size and part#. Good luck!
Thundra!
You mean tundra not thundra