UPDATE: I confused the methodology for EM testing with the newer YOLO tests. Rather than taking 95% - 2% = 93%, you should actually be taking (100%-2%)*95% = 93.1%. For most values, this difference is small and just subtracting the value will be "close enough" but the gap will get bigger as your EM gets lower.
Hey, This is a pretty good guide! Just wanted to say that if you have dark filament or filament that makes it hard to see the top layer of the EM calibration, shining your phones flashlight through the back of it is a great way to see voids/Under extrusion within the print. :)
You can do a binary search on the fan cooling, print the 0s, 6s and the 20s and then discard the worst one. now print the value in between the two good ones and just keep going until you find the best one. Save yourself some time
Amazing Job mate, i sadly didnt have the time to do one myself yet so im happy there is now something i can refer to when tuning my own printer over again (havent yet done that as im still cranking up speeds) or to recommend to others that also wanna go fast Keep up the great work !
Layer width should be greater than nozzle size cuz your nozzle can be bigger or smaller a bit, and also can wear out. Set at least 5% wider line, 10% would be even better
Absolutely great video! Just one question, for the PA tuning command, do I have to first send the print and when the printer is heating up I send the command line?
luckly my wife came back she said someone named burgo tried to rob her over the last few weeks but we are ok now i showed her my polymaker "abs" prints
Mitsu, quick question, how different is the tower your published compared to the OrcaSlicer's built in PA Tower? Because to me the geometry and calibration look the same.
It's very similar. The only real difference is that on mine you can control the number of walls if your cooling isn't up to par. Trying the built in Orca tower test my cooling struggled and it was difficult to interpret the results
If your chamber is not hot enough then running too much cooling can absolutely ruin your prints, for sure. On the 250 trident I can hit a chamber temp of around 73c by putting a blanket over the printer, so I'm not very worried about this. Ideally the chamber temp would be another 10 degrees hotter, but in practice the 73c temp seems to work just fine for strong parts
What's the max temp for that Ninja AF101 in dehydrate mode? Been looking for a better drying solution that regular filament dryers and want to dry Nylon at 90 C
And now there is the dynamic pressure advance, so the slicer calculates what's the best value for different speeds and layer heights... Any variable changes it.. Didn't tried it yet though
Yep! That will be awesome to see as it gets implemented into more slicers. I've been looking at tuning Dynamic PA in the newest version of OrcaSlicer but haven't done it yet. I need to print some actual parts rather than just test prints for a while 😜
My thoughts on this: 2:50 maybe you know, maybe you dont, but between 125-150% line width of your nozzle width, so 6.25-7.5mm in your case, is optimal for layer-adhesion. 7:25 if the extrusion-test works like i think it does, you shouldnt just subtract the value (in your case -2) from the original EM, but rather multiply the percentage with the EM, so 0.98 * 0.95 = 0.931, which in this case is obviously very close to what you did, but as you said for abs and stuff like that with generally lower values, the error gets bigger. Also just a thought, but i wonder if its better to tune EM first, and then tune PA, because different EM would have an effect on PA i would assume? Dont take this as criticism, its just my thoughts, i dont know if im right or not.
Good to know about the line widths. Honestly, I've just kept them all at 0.5mm and everything seems to work fine. Would be awesome to actually test part strength, but I don't have the capabilities to do that yet. You are absolutely correct about the EM values, I was mistaken and thinking about the newer YOLO tests. Between the EM and PA, I don't think it really matters which one you tune first as long as you go back and retune them like I did in the video. I've always done PA first, but that's just out of habit
I'm not quite sure what you're saying. If you're asking about how to dry ABS, I would recommend drying it in either a dehydrator or air fryer at 70-75c for 8-12 hours.
While I agree with you, the included test will simply ignore most of your settings for walls and run with fixed settings making it impossible to tune for different sized nozzles or speeds where your cooling might not be able to keep up for 2 thin walls.
@@spectermk1 Yep that was my issue exactly. I'll talk about it more during the bonus video but I was not able to get the orcaslicer built in PA test to work, nor Andrew Elis's gcode generator. Very frustrating
Only reason to "tune" extrusion multiplier is the use of different hardness of filaments. A soft TPU will squish instead of being moved thus you need to account for that springiness a super hard PLA will not deform at all, it´s super brittle (also why it´s not a good material choice for most functional prints despite very bad temp resistance). ABS, PETG, PA they generally speaking all have the same EM. You should start with PLA which is very hard and brittle as your base starting point and then increase EM when needed for soft materials, maybe like +1% for PETG and +5% for TPU depending on the TPU it could also be 10% or 3%. Sadly those type of things and reasoning behind it is rarely explained anywhere. I am guessing most people to make those videos are hobbyists themselves and don´t why they they "tune" they probably heard it or they have some galf knowledge of general things like "materials expand when hot" and things like that. Here the guy uses 7% less filament than the software tell the printer to. 7% or 93%EM isn´t normal at all. My machine works fine at 100%+-1%, If i were to set is 7% off the parts would be unusable. But then again maybe this person prints random figurenes or something.
This is incorrect. Different types of filament will have wildly different EM's, and that's totally normal. Check the default profiles for different materials in your slicer if you don't believe me. 93% EM is a completely normal result for ASA, I'm not sure where you're getting your info from
@@mitsubishimakes PrusaSlicer has EM set to exactly 1 by default for the 10 or so filament profiles I looked at including PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA & PC Blend. That said not every filament prints perfectly with those settings of course and I don't know much about tuning (which is why I'm watching this video lol)
@@SaHaRaSquad it could be the extruder, i think the rotation is abit off on the orbiter v2 or something, because i often run 88% extrusion :/... but going much higher it will over extrude some filaments also dye swell?
I hope you did not simply calculate 95 - 2 = 93% as shown in the video. While in this case it will lead to similar results( 93% vs 93.1%) it is not correct. If you want to just substract the numbers as shown use one of the YOLO tests instead.
This person also doesn´t understand pressure settings. Quote "Since I use pressure advance there shouldn´t be enough material to ooze out anyway" wrong, pressure advance does not take any material out of the nozzle which isn´t possible it just releaves the pressure thus the name. I am sorry but I wouldnßt listen to this video here. He does not understand certain fundementals from what I can see.
While I may not have worded that line perfectly, the underlying information is still correct. By relieving pressure inside the nozzle, you will not need to worry nearly as much about oozing
@@mitsubishimakes In this case yes. I don´t want to be unfair, if it´s what you meant it´s fine. Some people think you really physically take material out.
UPDATE: I confused the methodology for EM testing with the newer YOLO tests. Rather than taking 95% - 2% = 93%, you should actually be taking (100%-2%)*95% = 93.1%.
For most values, this difference is small and just subtracting the value will be "close enough" but the gap will get bigger as your EM gets lower.
Thank you Mitsu, with this video I was finally able to reprint my long dead cat without any stringing.
Thank you mitsu! With your tutorial, I was able to speed up my Tradrack so I could eat dinner faster
The new thumbnail is much better, good video
Hey, This is a pretty good guide! Just wanted to say that if you have dark filament or filament that makes it hard to see the top layer of the EM calibration, shining your phones flashlight through the back of it is a great way to see voids/Under extrusion within the print. :)
Good tip!
You can do a binary search on the fan cooling, print the 0s, 6s and the 20s and then discard the worst one. now print the value in between the two good ones and just keep going until you find the best one.
Save yourself some time
Amazing Job mate, i sadly didnt have the time to do one myself yet so im happy there is now something i can refer to when tuning my own printer over again (havent yet done that as im still cranking up speeds) or to recommend to others that also wanna go fast
Keep up the great work !
Thank you for the kind words! Best of luck tuning your build
Wow, really nice video!
Yay! Part 2!
Great information!
Thank you!
Nice video mitsu
The min layer time problem pretty much sums up why klippers pressure advance implementation sucks for speed
great video!
Thank you very much!
Layer width should be greater than nozzle size cuz your nozzle can be bigger or smaller a bit, and also can wear out. Set at least 5% wider line, 10% would be even better
Absolutely great video! Just one question, for the PA tuning command, do I have to first send the print and when the printer is heating up I send the command line?
Send the command before you start the print, and you should be good to go
luckly my wife came back she said someone named burgo tried to rob her over the last few weeks but we are ok now i showed her my polymaker "abs" prints
truly one of the 3D printing moments of all time
Mitsu, quick question, how different is the tower your published compared to the OrcaSlicer's built in PA Tower? Because to me the geometry and calibration look the same.
It's very similar. The only real difference is that on mine you can control the number of walls if your cooling isn't up to par. Trying the built in Orca tower test my cooling struggled and it was difficult to interpret the results
How does your cooling affect layer adhesion for ABS/ASA? I have experienced weak layer adhesion with higher fan speeds when printing ABS.
If your chamber is not hot enough then running too much cooling can absolutely ruin your prints, for sure. On the 250 trident I can hit a chamber temp of around 73c by putting a blanket over the printer, so I'm not very worried about this. Ideally the chamber temp would be another 10 degrees hotter, but in practice the 73c temp seems to work just fine for strong parts
What's the max temp for that Ninja AF101 in dehydrate mode? Been looking for a better drying solution that regular filament dryers and want to dry Nylon at 90 C
The dehydrate mode tops out at 195f or 90c, so you should be good for Nylon
@@mitsubishimakes Okay cool thanks!
Why not ad in chamber heating? I put it in my 2.4 and it’s a game changer.
I have a PTC and an SSR ready to go actually. I just need to find the time to install everything...
Thanks for watching!
And now there is the dynamic pressure advance, so the slicer calculates what's the best value for different speeds and layer heights... Any variable changes it.. Didn't tried it yet though
Yep! That will be awesome to see as it gets implemented into more slicers. I've been looking at tuning Dynamic PA in the newest version of OrcaSlicer but haven't done it yet. I need to print some actual parts rather than just test prints for a while 😜
@mitsubishimakes ohh.. Does 3d printers do that? Lol
Should there be sound?
Definitely. You can't hear anything?
@@mitsubishimakes It was a problem on my end
@@dog2bert Enjoy the video :)
My thoughts on this:
2:50 maybe you know, maybe you dont, but between 125-150% line width of your nozzle width, so 6.25-7.5mm in your case, is optimal for layer-adhesion. 7:25 if the extrusion-test works like i think it does, you shouldnt just subtract the value (in your case -2) from the original EM, but rather multiply the percentage with the EM, so 0.98 * 0.95 = 0.931, which in this case is obviously very close to what you did, but as you said for abs and stuff like that with generally lower values, the error gets bigger. Also just a thought, but i wonder if its better to tune EM first, and then tune PA, because different EM would have an effect on PA i would assume?
Dont take this as criticism, its just my thoughts, i dont know if im right or not.
Good to know about the line widths. Honestly, I've just kept them all at 0.5mm and everything seems to work fine. Would be awesome to actually test part strength, but I don't have the capabilities to do that yet.
You are absolutely correct about the EM values, I was mistaken and thinking about the newer YOLO tests.
Between the EM and PA, I don't think it really matters which one you tune first as long as you go back and retune them like I did in the video. I've always done PA first, but that's just out of habit
abs 필라멘트 구워먹는 방법
I'm not quite sure what you're saying. If you're asking about how to dry ABS, I would recommend drying it in either a dehydrator or air fryer at 70-75c for 8-12 hours.
There is no need for the PA model... It is already included in Orca Slicer you know?
While I agree with you, the included test will simply ignore most of your settings for walls and run with fixed settings making it impossible to tune for different sized nozzles or speeds where your cooling might not be able to keep up for 2 thin walls.
@spectermk1 After generated you can setup as you like
@@abstractflo3739 you can change the settings but the test won't respect your changes ;)
@@spectermk1 Yep that was my issue exactly. I'll talk about it more during the bonus video but I was not able to get the orcaslicer built in PA test to work, nor Andrew Elis's gcode generator. Very frustrating
Only reason to "tune" extrusion multiplier is the use of different hardness of filaments. A soft TPU will squish instead of being moved thus you need to account for that springiness a super hard PLA will not deform at all, it´s super brittle (also why it´s not a good material choice for most functional prints despite very bad temp resistance).
ABS, PETG, PA they generally speaking all have the same EM. You should start with PLA which is very hard and brittle as your base starting point and then increase EM when needed for soft materials, maybe like +1% for PETG and +5% for TPU depending on the TPU it could also be 10% or 3%. Sadly those type of things and reasoning behind it is rarely explained anywhere. I am guessing most people to make those videos are hobbyists themselves and don´t why they they "tune" they probably heard it or they have some galf knowledge of general things like "materials expand when hot" and things like that.
Here the guy uses 7% less filament than the software tell the printer to. 7% or 93%EM isn´t normal at all. My machine works fine at 100%+-1%, If i were to set is 7% off the parts would be unusable. But then again maybe this person prints random figurenes or something.
This is incorrect. Different types of filament will have wildly different EM's, and that's totally normal. Check the default profiles for different materials in your slicer if you don't believe me.
93% EM is a completely normal result for ASA, I'm not sure where you're getting your info from
@@mitsubishimakes Okay, so WHY is this the case then ? Please explain why that´s the case then.
@@mitsubishimakes PrusaSlicer has EM set to exactly 1 by default for the 10 or so filament profiles I looked at including PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA & PC Blend. That said not every filament prints perfectly with those settings of course and I don't know much about tuning (which is why I'm watching this video lol)
@@SaHaRaSquad it could be the extruder, i think the rotation is abit off on the orbiter v2 or something, because i often run 88% extrusion :/... but going much higher it will over extrude
some filaments also dye swell?
I hope you did not simply calculate 95 - 2 = 93% as shown in the video. While in this case it will lead to similar results( 93% vs 93.1%) it is not correct. If you want to just substract the numbers as shown use one of the YOLO tests instead.
Good to know, thank you!
first 😎
Third
This person also doesn´t understand pressure settings. Quote "Since I use pressure advance there shouldn´t be enough material to ooze out anyway" wrong, pressure advance does not take any material out of the nozzle which isn´t possible it just releaves the pressure thus the name.
I am sorry but I wouldnßt listen to this video here. He does not understand certain fundementals from what I can see.
While I may not have worded that line perfectly, the underlying information is still correct. By relieving pressure inside the nozzle, you will not need to worry nearly as much about oozing
@@mitsubishimakes In this case yes. I don´t want to be unfair, if it´s what you meant it´s fine. Some people think you really physically take material out.