About cutting the filament and its necessity. I know that it is possible to use a combination of retracts and extrusions in such a way as to minimize the unevenness of the filament tip. And it works seamlessly in the bowden setup. But no matter how much I've tried, removing the filament without cutting is not stable. A slight change in the moisture content of the plastic, a different color, a different type of filament, and you need to adjust everything anew. Because each plastic behaves a little differently. Even the slightest thickening or piece of plastic at the end sooner or later clogs the main direct extruder. It is no coincidence that all multimaterial printing systems now have a knife for cutting filaments.
I have been having great success with simply purging 10mm of filament, then quickly retracting to cold zone. I slowly retract 15mm more, then quickly out of the DD gears. This gets me a sharp tip every time that loads perfectly. Even TPU! This is using a modified 3dchameleon, but the idea should work for any diy MMU
I've tried this method. But the result was not stable enough. It was possible to do this successfully only by lowering the temperature by 15-20 degrees, but this is a long time. Perhaps it also depends on the structure of the hotend.
@@Irbis3D That could be a factor, I have it working on a Creality K1 and DD Ender 3 currently. Been sharing this with the 3D-Chameleon community and it seems to be a hit! I find that it always cools enough just from being in the cold zone 4 seconds or so, never gets wrapped up in the extruder gears. hundreds of changes last night for a 2 color dragon, all went perfectly! in case you wanted to see the code I use: G92 E0 G0 X299 Y299 F6000 ; move to back corner G91 ; relative movement G0 Z5 F400 ; raise 5mm to poop G0 E10 F250 ; push out molten filament G0 E-10 F3000 ; quickly retract to cold zone G0 E-15 F200 ; slowly retract G4 P4000 ; cool 4 seconds G0 E-100 F3000 ; quickly retract all the way G92 E0 G90 ; absolute movement after loading the next filament be sure to run this to lower back down to print height: G90 ; absolute movement G0 Z-5 F400 ; lower 5mm
That knowledge drop of just connecting an additional board to the host to gain access to additional steppers is great! this project and the duoender are both great.
In the klipper world that's just given info. One quick read through the configuration reference you'll find it and all sorts of other options you'd never think about.
dude! that's awesome! can't wait to see more! bear in mind, tinkerer to tinkerer, your content gives me great ideas toward future projects i've been planning. i've been planning a custom half meter corexy build for quite a while, refining various aspects for when i have the build space, but have always planned a multimaterial system as part of the design. you just made me rethink some of the possibilities involved, so thank you! 😁
Блин, ну классно получилось, молодец! Отдельный респект за поддержку английского языка) по моему мнению это правильное направление. Другие ролики тоже помогли разобраться в некоторых вопросах. Молодец, спасибо!
I did this a while ago with a bowden setup but used each ams feeder motor as a the extruder as well. I found they weren't powerful enough to feed and Extrude. I may revisit this now that we can sync another extruder with a feeder motor. Nice work buddy! 👏
Отличная идея и работа! Как раз думал о такой накануне НГ, когда срочно потребовалось перейти на 3-цветную печать. Буду думать как доработать свой аналог Ender 3.
thank you for the video! I hope many ppl will be interested in a more detailed video with Klipper configuration. Maybe how to install klipper on a stock printer?
for my end g-code i put a 10mm fast retract the moment it finishes the last print move, like an exaggerated retract during normal printing. gives me a great tip that i pull out after changing filaments and i haven't had to cut said tips for the past year. although that might not still be best for constant switching. maybe if after the retract and when the tool moves to the purge area with heating turned off and part fan on full blast to cool the nozzle tip there's another fast 12mm extract then another 10mm retract to ensure a proper clean break. plus that might help clean out the nozzle, idk I have idk how many stepper motors laying around and an extra perfectly good board i can use like you have.. this is giving me ideas. side note, for your filament buffer maybe you can do what Bambu does on the A1 with the spool holder that pulls back. I'm thinking a simple overrunning clutch with just enough tension on a wind up spring, possibly printed out of PETG
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
Hi, thank you for your best project. ❤🎉 How can I make this multi -colored AMS for myself because I don't have the money and have the ability to buy a multi -colored printer and I want to build one for myself so I can install it on my own handmade printer and work with it. . Can you please present the program code and the printer file and the supplies it needs and make a training video so we can make for myself. Thank you🥰❤️
Быстрая идея: Можно упростить устройство - использовать всего лишь один подающий двигатель для всех нитей под одним валом соединив его с экструдерным. Но для всех нитей придется тогда придется придумать прижимающий механизм для каждого филамента. Тогда есть шанс упростить всю электронную систему и встроить даже в прошивку Марлин.
Serg, seems you need a spool back-winding mechanism to avoid a filament loops and mess. Крч, надо катушки обратно при ретракте крутить, чтобы прям месива не было)
This is such an amazing project! I had no idea you could use a second board as a second MCU in klipper. I have been interested in building a material changer from the ground up like this, but cant figure out a good starting point for understanding macros and klipper modification.
It is possible to swap without knife. Just retract 20мм, wait about 20 seconds, then quickly unretract 20mm and eject filament. This will melt than thin tail and leave good tip. Also you can use more powerful steppers to eject and insert filament much faster, saving a lot of time.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
Well, looks like I am gonna finally start to use Klipper after all. Combining old boards to create a Frankenstein Monster of one's dreams. Sounds right!
Klipper is so amazing honestly. I am running a diy 8-color MMU with only 3 motors based on the 3dchameleon! It's a challenge but so amazing when it works
Hi, I'm really looking forward to the DUENDER documentation. My ender is already polluted and Vostok is already built. I'm preparing to build the next version of Vostok. I would like to rework a small project and your project for reworking the ender looks interesting...
You can actually change some code in a change -filament macros and go successfully without a blade cutter. For this you need first place a print-head far away from model, quickly purge a bit and than immediately retract to full length! And you will not have any problems with ooozing filament during change end charge
I know. But I've tried many different combinations for this, and I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
For printing in two colors, this is acceptable if you periodically clean the feeder. But when printing with 4 colors, when there can be up to 3 swaps per layer, the extruder gets clogged very quickly, even with the smallest pieces remaining during the retraction.
not gonna lie I am way to hyped up about printers right now I bought a a1 combo on the twenty first but it doesn't ship till two days after my birthday and I really wanna covert my old ender 3 because I put so much into it and if I sell it just becomes a third of the price I put into it but when you release your duet ender I'm gonna buy a second ender on marketplace for cheap and make my first every core xy printer and ill end up spending months tinkering with that and and eventually ill build your mmu and build an army of printers and something to think about with instructions is some people learn differently and some learn best with video instructions and some are better with written instructions with photos. but I seriously cant wait I really hope it turns out well and you can fine tune it to the way you want before the release best of luck my friend
hey, would you be able to post your h2 repacked extruder with cutter? i have a few h2 around and bambu hotends and would love to mash them up! great work!
Yes, I'm going to post it in a while. I need to re-model it a bit. My H2 was from the very first versions (pre-release) and had slightly different shaft sizes.
Возможно помогло бы перед ректрактом продавить часть филамента с большой скоростью, чтобы новый не успел расплавится. Это используется в марлине при смене филамента, оставляет только небольшое утолщение.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
Although I think this type of color printing is a waste of time and materials, Bambulab's idea is innovative. You did one brilliant execution, very creative. Congratulations.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
@Irbis3D here are roughly the settings i use. Have toolhead move away from print area. Then extrude 2-5mm @ 3-500mms and retract 3/4 the length of your heatbreak @ 50-250mms . It's's this retract speed that ultimately forms the tip. Then pause for ~20 seconds. Long enough to allow heatbreak to cool the filament, then retract required distance.
I've been considering combining two Ender 3s into a Core XY setup but am unsure of the necessary hardware. Do you have a Bill of Materials (BOM) I can reference or any resources to guide me in designing my own version?
Ты гений 👍 РКН всеми способами(оказывается) помогает блогерам "подзаработать", Т.е. большинство пользователей из РФ сейчас пользуются 3 буквами. Успехов тебе 🫡
Im pretty sure, MMU was nice solution before AMS. Bambu AMS is slow somehow. I have IDEX printer. I dont want to print toys. And for serious use IDEX is good. So lets see your very good solution for 4 materials. С такими знаниями надо работать инженером по созданию 3д принтеров.
Yes, MMU is a great solution, but it wasn't even close to as popular as AMS. In my opinion, IDEX is the best system for multi-material printing. I would make it in a Duender, but it requires a lot of space on the sides for extruders.
@Irbis3D Cube frame is not good for IDEX. So its better to keep Duender as it is. Idex must be in wide frame. Best project I know is Magnetic IDEX by some Soviet born immigrant. But his prototype is in small wide frame. Need bigger frame to adopt bed of 250*250 at least.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
About cutting the filament and its necessity. I know that it is possible to use a combination of retracts and extrusions in such a way as to minimize the unevenness of the filament tip. And it works seamlessly in the bowden setup. But no matter how much I've tried, removing the filament without cutting is not stable. A slight change in the moisture content of the plastic, a different color, a different type of filament, and you need to adjust everything anew. Because each plastic behaves a little differently. Even the slightest thickening or piece of plastic at the end sooner or later clogs the main direct extruder.
It is no coincidence that all multimaterial printing systems now have a knife for cutting filaments.
I have been having great success with simply purging 10mm of filament, then quickly retracting to cold zone. I slowly retract 15mm more, then quickly out of the DD gears.
This gets me a sharp tip every time that loads perfectly. Even TPU! This is using a modified 3dchameleon, but the idea should work for any diy MMU
I've tried this method. But the result was not stable enough. It was possible to do this successfully only by lowering the temperature by 15-20 degrees, but this is a long time. Perhaps it also depends on the structure of the hotend.
@@Irbis3D That could be a factor, I have it working on a Creality K1 and DD Ender 3 currently. Been sharing this with the 3D-Chameleon community and it seems to be a hit!
I find that it always cools enough just from being in the cold zone 4 seconds or so, never gets wrapped up in the extruder gears. hundreds of changes last night for a 2 color dragon, all went perfectly!
in case you wanted to see the code I use:
G92 E0
G0 X299 Y299 F6000 ; move to back corner
G91 ; relative movement
G0 Z5 F400 ; raise 5mm to poop
G0 E10 F250 ; push out molten filament
G0 E-10 F3000 ; quickly retract to cold zone
G0 E-15 F200 ; slowly retract
G4 P4000 ; cool 4 seconds
G0 E-100 F3000 ; quickly retract all the way
G92 E0
G90 ; absolute movement
after loading the next filament be sure to run this to lower back down to print height:
G90 ; absolute movement
G0 Z-5 F400 ; lower 5mm
How about adding a TCS3200 TCS230 color sensor to purge only until the color comes out of the nozzle,
It's a cool idea, but I can hardly imagine how to implement it in the firmware.
when you were petting the cat you looked like the most friendliest bond villain ever!
That knowledge drop of just connecting an additional board to the host to gain access to additional steppers is great! this project and the duoender are both great.
In the klipper world that's just given info. One quick read through the configuration reference you'll find it and all sorts of other options you'd never think about.
Слава Богу, хоть кто-то занимается интересными исследованиями и что-то изобретает сам. Успеха Вам, дорогой друг!
dude! that's awesome! can't wait to see more! bear in mind, tinkerer to tinkerer, your content gives me great ideas toward future projects i've been planning. i've been planning a custom half meter corexy build for quite a while, refining various aspects for when i have the build space, but have always planned a multimaterial system as part of the design. you just made me rethink some of the possibilities involved, so thank you! 😁
This is a Great project. You sir are a master at prototyping. Your engineering skills are outstanding ❤
Блин, ну классно получилось, молодец! Отдельный респект за поддержку английского языка) по моему мнению это правильное направление. Другие ролики тоже помогли разобраться в некоторых вопросах. Молодец, спасибо!
о, Сережа, спасибо что вернулся в строй!!! Подпись лайк, колокольчик) )))
I did this a while ago with a bowden setup but used each ams feeder motor as a the extruder as well. I found they weren't powerful enough to feed and Extrude. I may revisit this now that we can sync another extruder with a feeder motor. Nice work buddy! 👏
Thank you for sharing. Very impressive and good use of old printer parts.
Well done sir, I really like the idea of using parts from the original enders!
Отличная идея и работа! Как раз думал о такой накануне НГ, когда срочно потребовалось перейти на 3-цветную печать. Буду думать как доработать свой аналог Ender 3.
Take a look at Happy Hare project and 3MS system. Basically you already have all the necessary parts to use Type B configuration
This is what i want to see more of on youtube you are great and if i can make a suggestion for a future project i would say "toolchanger"
This is a wonderful project and youve done a lot of wonderful work.
Very impressive! 👍
Nice job man! This is pretty amazing
awesome work!
This is great, looking forward to see you expanding the project and sharing your work!
thank you for the video! I hope many ppl will be interested in a more detailed video with Klipper configuration. Maybe how to install klipper on a stock printer?
Very clever my friend! 👏👏👏
Very impressive. Really enjoyed watching this.
for my end g-code i put a 10mm fast retract the moment it finishes the last print move, like an exaggerated retract during normal printing. gives me a great tip that i pull out after changing filaments and i haven't had to cut said tips for the past year. although that might not still be best for constant switching. maybe if after the retract and when the tool moves to the purge area with heating turned off and part fan on full blast to cool the nozzle tip there's another fast 12mm extract then another 10mm retract to ensure a proper clean break. plus that might help clean out the nozzle, idk
I have idk how many stepper motors laying around and an extra perfectly good board i can use like you have.. this is giving me ideas.
side note, for your filament buffer maybe you can do what Bambu does on the A1 with the spool holder that pulls back. I'm thinking a simple overrunning clutch with just enough tension on a wind up spring, possibly printed out of PETG
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
I just recieved the corner brackets for my DuEnder. I may do an AMS as well, but not until the printer is fully tuned.
Great video, really looking forward to it
Comrade Sergey and his faithful cat! This is a very interesting video, keep it up.
I'm here for the cat. The 3D printing is just an added bonus. :3
Niiice, you just got another sub, very creative!
Hi, thank you for your best project. ❤🎉
How can I make this multi -colored AMS for myself because I don't have the money and have the ability to buy a multi -colored printer and I want to build one for myself so I can install it on my own handmade printer and work with it. .
Can you please present the program code and the printer file and the supplies it needs and make a training video so we can make for myself.
Thank you🥰❤️
Great project...
Быстрая идея: Можно упростить устройство - использовать всего лишь один подающий двигатель для всех нитей под одним валом соединив его с экструдерным. Но для всех нитей придется тогда придется придумать прижимающий механизм для каждого филамента. Тогда есть шанс упростить всю электронную систему и встроить даже в прошивку Марлин.
Serg, seems you need a spool back-winding mechanism to avoid a filament loops and mess.
Крч, надо катушки обратно при ретракте крутить, чтобы прям месива не было)
This is such an amazing project! I had no idea you could use a second board as a second MCU in klipper.
I have been interested in building a material changer from the ground up like this, but cant figure out a good starting point for understanding macros and klipper modification.
"я не программист" - и показывает гору скриптов которые налабал)
дружище, все классно, продолжай) жаль что ориентация только на западных партнеров :(
Your work is amazing!
Серега красавчик! Успехов и процветания!
Very helpful video!
It is possible to swap without knife. Just retract 20мм, wait about 20 seconds, then quickly unretract 20mm and eject filament. This will melt than thin tail and leave good tip.
Also you can use more powerful steppers to eject and insert filament much faster, saving a lot of time.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
Well, looks like I am gonna finally start to use Klipper after all. Combining old boards to create a Frankenstein Monster of one's dreams. Sounds right!
Klipper is so amazing honestly. I am running a diy 8-color MMU with only 3 motors based on the 3dchameleon! It's a challenge but so amazing when it works
Сергей, отлично что вы решили сориентироваться на англоговорящего зрителя! Очень рад!
Hi, I'm really looking forward to the DUENDER documentation. My ender is already polluted and Vostok is already built. I'm preparing to build the next version of Vostok. I would like to rework a small project and your project for reworking the ender looks interesting...
Hi, great work! Are you going to share the extruder cad (the one with the Biqu h2 gears)? I would be interested in trying it!
You can actually change some code in a change -filament macros and go successfully without a blade cutter. For this you need first place a print-head far away from model, quickly purge a bit and than immediately retract to full length! And you will not have any problems with ooozing filament during change end charge
I know. But I've tried many different combinations for this, and I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
For printing in two colors, this is acceptable if you periodically clean the feeder. But when printing with 4 colors, when there can be up to 3 swaps per layer, the extruder gets clogged very quickly, even with the smallest pieces remaining during the retraction.
Thank you very much
not gonna lie I am way to hyped up about printers right now I bought a a1 combo on the twenty first but it doesn't ship till two days after my birthday and I really wanna covert my old ender 3 because I put so much into it and if I sell it just becomes a third of the price I put into it but when you release your duet ender I'm gonna buy a second ender on marketplace for cheap and make my first every core xy printer and ill end up spending months tinkering with that and and eventually ill build your mmu and build an army of printers and something to think about with instructions is some people learn differently and some learn best with video instructions and some are better with written instructions with photos. but I seriously cant wait I really hope it turns out well and you can fine tune it to the way you want before the release best of luck my friend
hey, would you be able to post your h2 repacked extruder with cutter? i have a few h2 around and bambu hotends and would love to mash them up! great work!
Yes, I'm going to post it in a while. I need to re-model it a bit. My H2 was from the very first versions (pre-release) and had slightly different shaft sizes.
Возможно помогло бы перед ректрактом продавить часть филамента с большой скоростью, чтобы новый не успел расплавится. Это используется в марлине при смене филамента, оставляет только небольшое утолщение.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
good job, good video :)
lovely vid
wow!
Although I think this type of color printing is a waste of time and materials, Bambulab's idea is innovative.
You did one brilliant execution, very creative. Congratulations.
Impressive!!
Ramming and tip forming is there to not need the cutter.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
@Irbis3D here are roughly the settings i use. Have toolhead move away from print area. Then extrude 2-5mm @ 3-500mms and retract 3/4 the length of your heatbreak @ 50-250mms . It's's this retract speed that ultimately forms the tip. Then pause for ~20 seconds. Long enough to allow heatbreak to cool the filament, then retract required distance.
I've been considering combining two Ender 3s into a Core XY setup but am unsure of the necessary hardware. Do you have a Bill of Materials (BOM) I can reference or any resources to guide me in designing my own version?
Not yet. For the next video, I'll prepare everything and share it somewhere. And in the next video I will tell in more detail how it is made.
ty bro
Sergey, are you sure it's reliable automatically?
0:57
Молодец, одобряю канал английском, надеюсь все видосы твои видосы будут только тут.
hi. what is name of this part cooling duct with fan. ... black one in 12:45?
I modeled it myself for my extruder. It's only suitable for that.
Wooo
Ты гений 👍
РКН всеми способами(оказывается) помогает блогерам "подзаработать", Т.е. большинство пользователей из РФ сейчас пользуются 3 буквами.
Успехов тебе 🫡
london is a capital of great britain
Im pretty sure, MMU was nice solution before AMS. Bambu AMS is slow somehow. I have IDEX printer. I dont want to print toys. And for serious use IDEX is good. So lets see your very good solution for 4 materials. С такими знаниями надо работать инженером по созданию 3д принтеров.
Yes, MMU is a great solution, but it wasn't even close to as popular as AMS. In my opinion, IDEX is the best system for multi-material printing. I would make it in a Duender, but it requires a lot of space on the sides for extruders.
@Irbis3D Cube frame is not good for IDEX. So its better to keep Duender as it is. Idex must be in wide frame. Best project I know is Magnetic IDEX by some Soviet born immigrant. But his prototype is in small wide frame. Need bigger frame to adopt bed of 250*250 at least.
Слишком много разговоров и мало технички как и что конкретно на железе.
Что я пропустил? Почему Сергей перешёл на английский?
Life has changed, and the language has changed)))
@@Irbis3D was country changed?
Helloy! Ai like print and drink vodka :)
Охеренно, до этого 3д печать не понимал, а тут еще и Серёга на непонятном языке говорит
Life has changed, and the language has changed. I made Russian subtitles. There is also an automatic voiceover feature in the yandex browser.
bro lets go i was the first