Mitsubishi, this video changed my life and fixed my everything, my resin printer has now crossed the 500mm/s mark and thanks input shaping, I will never have to worry about filament running out again.
Mitsubishi, my life has been forever altered from this video. The sick b roll fixed my car's broke gauge cluster and thanks to extrusion multiplier testing I have unlocked it's hidden 2000 horsepower. Cheers!
this video made my wife come back to me after i shower her how good my prints are now although with the amount of abs fumes my printer produces now i can print 2x as fast i have lost feeling in my legs and now must chop them off
Great video! Honestly wayyyy better than how I can explain tuning for high speeds to a more wider audience. Nice work! Can't wait to see what you build next! ;)
Great video! For input shaping, Klippain's Shake and Tune is a lot easier, since it auto generates the graphs, and has other tuning, such as belt shaping
A little bit later than the other ones but it's still Friday! I think this is the longest streak of uploading I've kept up ever, actually... All music in the video is by killedmyself also hi burgo
Secret sauce for belt tension (Cartesian printer), activate the motors and measure 100mm with a caliper in X and Y. You'll find that it lands dead in the middle of spec. If not, than your belts are worn out. Best part! It will be far better than trying to calibrate via prints, which the plastic not only has varying expansion/contraction ratios BUT so does the environment (open/enclosed/room temp) AND to finish it off every print will act differently 🥲 As Core-XY moves at 45° per motor/belt, that's hard to measure and adjust. But possible. You would just need to have the same belt tension on each before you start, and carefully tension each the same amount when adjusting. That's what I did when I had a Creality K1, unfortunately the belt pulleys don't really line up causing uneven travel when close to the sides (a²+b²=c²). I returned it after two weeks, too many issues other than that.
I've had it up on my printables page for a while now! Someone made a remix of it that is better though www.printables.com/model/888793-fysetc-portable-input-shaper-pis-v6-nozzle-mount
I've been building and tuning my voron 0.2 for the past ~4ish months. Every single thing in this video is exactly what I've done, but I made way more mistakes and went a couple steps backwards with every improvement I was making lol. Would've save so much time and confusion if this video came out a few months ago. Super super helpful! Also, what kind of flow rates do you get on ABS with your rapido? I can get to about 45mm3/s if I bump up temps to 280C on 0.4mm nozzle, but the stock heater can't keep up (especially with 2 nozzle extenders + cht)
Since the 300 isnt enclosed yet I havent tried ABS on it. My 250mm trident has a Dragon UHF (which I think has he same length meltzone?) and I can go up to 52 cubic mm/s with a 0.5mm TC nozzle with ABS at 285c
I've sped up my Bambu printer by feeding the filament straight from the drier. It emerges at 55°C which means it can pass through the hot end much faster without cooling.
Great video! I'm new to 3d printing and this is a great tutorial. Some constructive feedback... check your extruder rotation distance again. The ruler you used in the video does not start at 0 on the edge of the ruler. The ruler scale starts a few mm after the ruler edge. You read 20 but that's not the real reading in reference to the ruler edge.
Welcome to the wonderful world of 3D Printing. My extruder rotation distance is correct. Since you are taking the difference between two measurements, the extra length at the edge of the ruler cancels out
I've never tried it before, but I've heard great things from quite a few people. I'm definitely gonna try it out when during the next round of upgrades on the 250 Trident!
@@mitsubishimakes you really should! I think it's amazing as it makes everything so much simpler, more easy to work with and it has some rather cool new features like belt response from each side to get the belt tension as close as possible to equal
Great question! In short, the numbers that you are seeing are the recommendations for the max acceleration *without ringing*. Creality is advertising the maximum acceleration the printer is capable of, but you will notice your print quality start to suffer if you actually run that much accel. My 250mm trident can print at 50K accel, but the parts look horrible and I would never actually print with that much. For some features (like infill) running higher accelerations with some ringing is totally fine, but you'll definitely want to lower your accelerations for at least your outer walls.
Im having a panic attack trying to figure out how a lower rotation distance number will make the extruder extruder that extra 2mm of filament. I dont doubt it, it just feels like the wrong direction to adjust that number.
To raise speed and acceleration the same time makes no sense. You have to sacrifice one for the other (keep one fixed until you get step loss then decide if you lower the other to get a stable system).
mitsu.. listen, i dont care that you cheat on your wife but the fact theres no subway surfers on the side of the video makes me have to leave a dislike... im sorry mitsu..
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Mitsubishi, this video changed my life and fixed my everything, my resin printer has now crossed the 500mm/s mark and thanks input shaping, I will never have to worry about filament running out again.
Remember, DON'T DRINK THE RESIN!
@@mitsubishimakes Don't worry, stuff tastes horrible, would not recommend. Resin tierlist coming soon.
It can't fix ur lack of research on ur videos.
What are you talking about? This is about FDM not resin printer...
@@christianmontagx8461 whoosh
Mitsubishi, my life has been forever altered from this video. The sick b roll fixed my car's broke gauge cluster and thanks to extrusion multiplier testing I have unlocked it's hidden 2000 horsepower. Cheers!
this video made my wife come back to me after i shower her how good my prints are now although with the amount of abs fumes my printer produces now i can print 2x as fast i have lost feeling in my legs and now must chop them off
No legs means less mass which means higher accelerations. Thats a net gain!
i can’t even contain my immense excitement as i watch another mitsubishimakes masterpiece
The quality of the footage and edit is just 👌👌👌
Thank you!
This is exactly what I need right now! So timely - I just finished my Trident 350 AWD build and am tuning it right now. Thanks for making this video.
Great video! Honestly wayyyy better than how I can explain tuning for high speeds to a more wider audience. Nice work! Can't wait to see what you build next! ;)
Thank you sir! Anxiously awaiting your next upload as well!
Great video!
For input shaping, Klippain's Shake and Tune is a lot easier, since it auto generates the graphs, and has other tuning, such as belt shaping
I definitely want to try those out in the future. I've heard good things about ResHelper too
A little bit later than the other ones but it's still Friday! I think this is the longest streak of uploading I've kept up ever, actually...
All music in the video is by killedmyself
also hi burgo
Prints fast enough to satiate my short attention span! No subway surfers needed!
Someone didn't read the description...
Thanks for the great video. We'll put together and good explanations.
Thank you!
Great video!
Thank you!
Secret sauce for belt tension (Cartesian printer), activate the motors and measure 100mm with a caliper in X and Y. You'll find that it lands dead in the middle of spec. If not, than your belts are worn out. Best part! It will be far better than trying to calibrate via prints, which the plastic not only has varying expansion/contraction ratios BUT so does the environment (open/enclosed/room temp) AND to finish it off every print will act differently 🥲
As Core-XY moves at 45° per motor/belt, that's hard to measure and adjust. But possible. You would just need to have the same belt tension on each before you start, and carefully tension each the same amount when adjusting. That's what I did when I had a Creality K1, unfortunately the belt pulleys don't really line up causing uneven travel when close to the sides (a²+b²=c²). I returned it after two weeks, too many issues other than that.
Hey, I'm in Canada too and I'm wondering where you got your voron kits from, as I'm looking to get one but would like to avoid import taxes?
This printer was self sourced (mostly from parts from 3DLabTech). My other trident is a formbot kit
All right, thanks a lot
could you please share the nozzle mount you have for your fystec accelermeter?
I've had it up on my printables page for a while now! Someone made a remix of it that is better though www.printables.com/model/888793-fysetc-portable-input-shaper-pis-v6-nozzle-mount
I've been building and tuning my voron 0.2 for the past ~4ish months. Every single thing in this video is exactly what I've done, but I made way more mistakes and went a couple steps backwards with every improvement I was making lol. Would've save so much time and confusion if this video came out a few months ago. Super super helpful!
Also, what kind of flow rates do you get on ABS with your rapido? I can get to about 45mm3/s if I bump up temps to 280C on 0.4mm nozzle, but the stock heater can't keep up (especially with 2 nozzle extenders + cht)
Since the 300 isnt enclosed yet I havent tried ABS on it. My 250mm trident has a Dragon UHF (which I think has he same length meltzone?) and I can go up to 52 cubic mm/s with a 0.5mm TC nozzle with ABS at 285c
Excellent
Nice vid, nice cameo :P
One day I will have a printer as fast as CarbonShrike!
I've sped up my Bambu printer by feeding the filament straight from the drier. It emerges at 55°C which means it can pass through the hot end much faster without cooling.
Interesting. I've never heard of someone doing that before
Great video! I'm new to 3d printing and this is a great tutorial. Some constructive feedback... check your extruder rotation distance again. The ruler you used in the video does not start at 0 on the edge of the ruler. The ruler scale starts a few mm after the ruler edge. You read 20 but that's not the real reading in reference to the ruler edge.
Welcome to the wonderful world of 3D Printing.
My extruder rotation distance is correct. Since you are taking the difference between two measurements, the extra length at the edge of the ruler cancels out
Why no love for klippain shake&tune?
It makes everything with input shaper etc so much better and easier!
I've never tried it before, but I've heard great things from quite a few people. I'm definitely gonna try it out when during the next round of upgrades on the 250 Trident!
@@mitsubishimakes you really should! I think it's amazing as it makes everything so much simpler, more easy to work with and it has some rather cool new features like belt response from each side to get the belt tension as close as possible to equal
@@rallegade Awesome!
@@mitsubishimakesshake tune is the only way to go. Takes less than 10 mins to set up.
@@1Kingcb For sure. I'm (slowly) working with someone else on an in-depth guide to input shaping, and we are gonna be using shaketune for sure!
I still don't understand resonance shaping. The accelerations always say
Great question! In short, the numbers that you are seeing are the recommendations for the max acceleration *without ringing*. Creality is advertising the maximum acceleration the printer is capable of, but you will notice your print quality start to suffer if you actually run that much accel.
My 250mm trident can print at 50K accel, but the parts look horrible and I would never actually print with that much.
For some features (like infill) running higher accelerations with some ringing is totally fine, but you'll definitely want to lower your accelerations for at least your outer walls.
Video says mines perfect. he has 25mm as 0 is not at the end of the ruler so it's already wrong
Extra space at the end of the ruler doesn't matter, since that extra space is present in both of the measurements you take
I have a full metal toolhead so it makes no difference to meassure on the nozzle or the toolhead itself :)
What toolhead do you use?
Im having a panic attack trying to figure out how a lower rotation distance number will make the extruder extruder that extra 2mm of filament. I dont doubt it, it just feels like the wrong direction to adjust that number.
on 1:28 you say you measure 20mm bud you dont becouse you do not measure from the 0
Since I also measured the original 120mm that way it does not matter. The difference between the two values will be the same
Lol. My InputShaper-Kit (non-USB) cost me 5$. Why are this other "solutions" are so expensive?
I remember the good old days soldering together a solution with an ADXL and a pi pico, I will happily pay $20 for the convenience :)
To raise speed and acceleration the same time makes no sense. You have to sacrifice one for the other (keep one fixed until you get step loss then decide if you lower the other to get a stable system).
This is a good point! Which value do you think is more important to maximize for travel moves?
Shout out James Pray
Delta Daddy himself ;)
mitsu.. listen, i dont care that you cheat on your wife but the fact theres no subway surfers on the side of the video makes me have to leave a dislike... im sorry mitsu..
The description didn't suffice? :((
@@mitsubishimakes no it needs to be on the video
A video about print quality when your Voron has questionable quality parts it’s made with… that’s funny lol
Gotta improve the quality of them somehow 🤷♂
Really nice video🤙🏻