We bought a 2010 X5 N63 motor, motor needing service related repairs 100k kms. I will be removing the whole thing to do a full re seal and anything that they are known for. Probably the piston rings too. This video has given me so much clarity, I really appreciate it.
Awesome video! Thank your for showing. Maybe it will help someone reading this: Check your Turbo auxillary coolant pump, to make sure it's running while and after (~25min) you run the engine. That typically fails and leaves the turbos hot, oil hot, and allows the oil to boil and clog the oil lines. It throws codes, so check that, but doesn't throw a check engine light so may go years unnoticed, so with heat soak you'll get cooked oil and clogged lines. To check that coolant is flowing after the engine is off, just touch the left hose that leads to the pump, you should feel vibrations from the impeller and turbulent coolant flow. The feed line to the turbos also has some vibrations, but less. You might be able to feel it during engine running, but will be difficult. I put an ammeter on mine to check it, but that takes some wiring mods. Hope that helps some people out! I've had two pumps go in 15,000 miles, so beware, it's a weak part prone to failure, and can lead to clogged oil lines and Turbo failure. It has also been the part that lead to some recalls. (Updated: I show how to check in my last post) David.
Good advice. Another simple thing you can do is to avoid driving hard the last few minutes before you switch the engine off, and to let the engine idle about 30 to 60 seconds before you do so. This just helps excess heat to dissipate. I learnt this with military turbo engines.
@@roadstardelta Great advice!! It's always very hard to refrain from going hard, but I'll definitely do that! It's kinda like the turbo timer on the old cars. Definitely worth doing to drop the temps and increase turbo lifetime. Thanks for the advice! Myself and everyone else who reads that and idle to cool down the turbos will benefit! Cheers, David.
@@roadstardelta Excellent advice. I got 260K miles from Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo engine with original turbo before selling to collector, no oil consumption, great power by 3K (synthetic) mile oil changes and allowing the turbo to cool down before shutoff.
Good job! Refreshing to see someone else who actually cares about keeping stuff clean. In the automotive world, a job is only as good as it is clean! Also really nice editing :)
I enjoyed that first song way more than I care to admit. Had my dad bod cutting shapes like Terry Crews in White Chicks for 4 minutes and 47 seconds Thanks for that.
I appreciate these videos, my mom went ahead and purchased a 2010 750i recently and after i looked at all it problems im gonna have to dig in . Not my first rodeo but never seen or touched an N63 so every bit of info helps. The car is actually pristine with only 13k miles but im still going to get into it to try and remedy the common issues as well as give it a little more umph . My mom doesnt drive hard at all so it wont make much of a difference with the extra power, but I find it necessary to battle the extreme heat due to this terrible engineering nightmare lol.
@@Kyronsk8 it rides like a dream , feels like a brand new car despite the age of the vehicle . Currently have it in the garage as it’s getting some upgrades . ARM intake VRSF downpipes 84degree thermostat Oil Cooler valve upgrade JB4 Tuner Downpipes, turbos , intercoolers and manifolds are all being Cerakoted . I’m not really doing this for the power as it is an older lady that will be driving it , but more so to keep cooler temps to save the motor from the typical problems caused by stupid engineering decisions lol . More than ready to beat the brutal southern humidity and have peace of mind it won’t start dumping oil .
@@Kyronsk8 well I need the JB4 to tune everything together so it runs right , otherwise without a proper tune it could cause issues and run rich . As the car will have power capabilities it can be tuned to just run smooth . Besides as fickle as these transmissions can be it won’t be at the track or racing on the freeway lol.
@@Kyronsk8 besides don’t underestimate my mom , she can drive haha. Back in the day I had a 500whp STi and she handled that just fine . The song “Little old lady from Pasadena” perfectly describes her 🤣
Thanx for making this video. I have a 2011 BMW F10 550i xdrive. was quoted $2300 to replace leaking turbo coolant lines and the coolant hose behind the alternator which has a plastic swing y connector that cracked open. When i did the break down i found so much oil in the "valley" of the engine. This vehicle is pretty easy to work on once you get familiar with it. Im sure to address the oil leak alone would have jumped the price from $2300 to $3500 or more. All parts purchased I spent $850. Sometimes these mechanics break parts when disassembling and reassembling. They have a schedule. Also when its thier property people tend to be less careful or concerned. Two cracked crank case breather pipes, intakes for the turbos cracked at bolt fitting, y pipe cracked, all turbo lines leaking, and all parts you listed in your video for the oil leaks. Again thanx for such a great video.
This engine uses an "inboard" exhaust configuration. On this setup the exhaust and intake locations are flipped. The intake manifolds are located on the sides of the engine under the valve covers, and the exhaust manifold is located up top in the valley pan. They did this to save space. There is no room to mount twin turbos in the conventional format. The Ford PS 6.7 also uses this configuration. As for carbon blasting the intake tracts, well on the N63, one does that through the wheel wells.
Tearing one down now and its on the tougher/ involved setups especially with that hot vee and coolant lines and I've been on main line at dealers and indys. Once you try you get it. Btw.. does the poster know if a rebuild in turbos was needed for the mileage the car had? Thanks.
I didn't open the turbos. I'm sure there were some burnt oil residue so cleaning the oil channels might have been good idea. Anyway no play in axels and wheels were spinning smooth.
@@TKR-videos Im having oil leaks by the coolant area and maybe some other area, bad smell in the Ac vent and smoke coming out in the muffler and I can see some oil by the muffler tips as well....is this repair you did will fix it or I need to do replace more stuff?
I did this job on my X6 and I have mad respect for the uploader and anyone else who attempts this. Took me a month and a half on evenings and weekends... horrible job... absolutely horrible. I still dont know how he got the headers off without removing the downpipes. I removed them to get to back bolts (also a pain in the butt).
The catalysts are secured to the rear of the cylinder head with two 6mm allen bit bolts per side, plus the 3 bigger 7mm allen bit bolts up top. Once you release the band clamp around the turbos, along with aforementioned bolts, the catalysts will have significant end play due to the flex pipe design. Leaves you plenty of room to get your hands under and remove the manifolds. That said, the official repair info calls to remove the cats, and I myself do it this way because I am very anal about cleanliness and the cats obstruct in the cleaning process. Catalyst removal only adds about another 30 minutes to the job believe it or not. You have to remove most of the same components to remove the turbos anyway. Catalyst removal only adds the need to remove the vacuum pump, the bottom rear splash shield (which should be removed regardless), and undo the exhaust collectors.
I want to say that is amazing work, I am very impressed, considering how the BMW Dealership ruined my 2009 750i but not putting AntiFreeze in my after they did a factory recall work. They provide the car back to me dirty, no antivirus, and now I have found that they did not connect the left turbo charger correctly. The even charged me $1,846.88 to replace the turbo charger coolant lines. If anyone is wondering who this company is, it's BMW of Fairfax, in Fairfax Virginia.
Thanks. And sorry to hear. It's a complicated engine to work with and sometimes even the BMW mechanics fail to do the job. (Usually because they are in a hurry..) Hope you got your 750i fixed and can still enjoy driving it!
Actually it's very easy compared to turbos mounted between the engine block and the wheel well as some might even consider dropping the subframe. It takes some time for the N63, but it's very, very accessible! I'm definetely thinking more about a 550i! Thanks for the video!
Please help me in removing the clamp which bolts exhaust to turbo. Did spend almost the whole day removing 1 of them i.e. driver side. Also once we remove the clamps and the t30 s to oil return line is anything else needed to remove the turbos?
I have an X6 with the n63, I had changed out majority of plastic tees with metal ones but retained factory hose. When I’m close to doing my change, I pour 1/4 btl of sea foam directly into turbo feed line. Helps to break down sludge buildup in the line and turbo inlet.
I just completed this repair. Took roughly 20-25 hours over about 2 weeks with 2 of us. Parts came to roughly $550. This completely removed the burning oil smell coming in through the vents. I've yet to see how much difference it will make in general for the vehicle consuming oil
Thank you so much! this answered a question for me, as I'm getting prepared to upgrade my turbo's on my 550i to Pure Stage 1, and also will replace the oil and oil return lines, etc. (no oil leaking though but might as well since I'm opening her up) The procedure was telling me to remove the cats, and I couldn't figure out why it was needed, if only removing the turbos.
Wow that’s amazing mate. It literally took me 1 week just to change the valve cover gaskets. Hats off to you . Am currently trying to remove the oxygen sensor from the catalytic converters and that’s a pain
Just replaced the alternator -day one..(2011 550i m sport) -what a pain in the ass!!! Day two- pain in the ass. Replaced all turbo cooling lines and still have to tidy up some things before I can hit the road. 550i on second engine, under warranty with 16000 miles on new engine now, but the dealer uses all old components off old engine. The hoses were leaking slowly at the clamps and dripped on the alternator and burned it out. Otherwise the car is fine. 58k total miles on the body....The only easy thing on this vehicle is replacing the coil over plugs and spark plugs, brake pads.
The heat shield with oxygen sensors the bolts at back of heat shield rusted any advice on how to remove them? Also how hard was it to remove turbos and exhaust manifold pls I see in video you tried to reach in for some time before the exhaust manifold came off .... if you can clarify how hard to remove these thanks
Heat of the turbos especially when the separate turbo cooling system is not working... Sometimes because failed aux pump, too low on coolant, coolant leaks, air in the system...
I've seen photos someone doing it but you have to disassemble the front of the car completely. It's probably much faster to drop the engine with trans.
Thanks for the video. My coolant is low, I cannot see the leak, but I can hear leak after the engine is off. This video definitely help. Do you have the information on torque spec?
@T K-R I'm doing this job right now. What is the sensor that's attached to the turbo? I accidentally broke the line that's attached to it...not the connector, but the thin line (I didn't expect it to be brittle).
I understand this is for turbo oil return lines leaking into the valley and down the back of the engine. I have a lot of smoke (burning oil) coming from the top of the engine, seems like oil is dripping onto the exhaust manifolds or something else extremely hot. Could this be the same issue or does that sound like something else?
I have the exact car. 2013 x5 xdrive50i n63. I’m trying to tackle this on my own and haven’t talked myself into it yet. I definitely want to replace all the oil and coolant lines and turbo return housing. I know there is a ton of oil buildup. There has to be. My car has 120000 and runs like a clock
There was a web page called "newtis" that included all the BMW repair procedures including the torque specs. Try to find it or install BMW ISTA software on your windows laptop.
I need to do this to my E70. I think I could do about 65% of this (with three weeks in the evening), but would need some support for the other 35%. Wonder how I could find a good advisor/pro that could fill in the gap.
Check this www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-550i-lim/repair-manuals/18-exhaust-system/18-40-exhaust-manifold-with-integrated-catalytic-converter/1LdV8yPs and torque specs here: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-550i-lim/repair-manuals/18-exhaust-system/18-40-exhaust-manifold-with-integrated-catalytic-converter/5cTTVzI 15Nm
Any chance I can get a little bit slower version with audio instructions? I’ve had two shops do thousands do dollars of work for a coolant leak they can’t fix so I’m going to do this myself what you did in this awesome video! I need your help pretty please!!!!
Neat video! What were the symptoms that suggested the oil return lines were so clogged? What's your opinion on the long-term reliability of the N63, given the rash of issues related to turbos, injectors, batteries, and valve-stem seals?
I didn't have any symptoms on turbo oil lines. I believe the oil was still flowing through and they got completely clogged only when removed, twisted and splitter apart. I wouldn't recommend early years N63 to anyone who doesn't like to DIY. Newer 2014--> N63TU is more reliable because improved design. These are crazy expensive to maintain if you take them to shop because engine bay is so full that it takes hours of labor to replace anything. Valve stem seals are the biggest problem after 70k miles. Injectors are under BMW warranty for 10years. Every owner should keep their battery fully charged and replace it often enough. Battery power is needed for the turbo coolant pump, which MUST run after every engine shutdown for 10 minutes or everything will be cooked under the hood.
Thanks for the reply. When you say "turbo coolant pump," does that refer to the electronic water pump? The N54 (in my 335i) has that as well, which runs after car shut-off.
N63 V8 has 2 coolant pumps. The main one is belt driven, and the auxiliary pump is electric. The electric pump runs 10-30min after shut off to cool down turbos.
mrmax1984 I think he is referring to n63’s intercooler’s water pump system. The n54 is air to air cooled, the n63 is water to air cooled . Thank you for the info TK-R!
In the description it says that this issue is misdiagnose with the rear main seal. So in your experience has the rear main seal ever been a problem that you come across?
I don't do this for living so I really don't know. What I've seen on discussion forums and groups is that upper oil pan gasket and turbo oil return cover are the most common leaks.
What tool did you use to take the acoustic shield off? I have spline sockets or the weird universal sockets that I used for the the star bolts. What else did you use
Hi i have a bmw 750li f02 with the issue of exhaust gas smell in the car. do you know what it can come from? the exhaust manifold gaskets have been changed but the problem is still present
T K-R thanks a lot! I just did the job. No more leaks! Replaced the lines, including gaskets seals and replaced both pcv valves since they cracked upon removal. paid about $400 in labor here. Not bad compared to the USA, but still burning oil. Worried what else can go wrong. I love this car but I can say I’m a little fed up. :/
How often you have to add one quart or liter? I had Valve stem leaks, turbo oil return cover leak and upper oil pan leaks in my X5. After everything fixed it consumes 1qt per 2000miles (1l per 3200km) which is not too bad, and BMW says it's normal. My car burned 1qt/600ml (1l/1000km) before the repairs.
T K-R after replacing seals, lines, and gaskets, no more leaks. But my bmw is still burning about 1q every 400 miles. I know I must replace valve seals but not sure whether that will eliminate the problem entirely or only add a few hundred miles per quart consumed... not sure whether the job may be worth it.
Sorry late reply. I don't have experience on blankets. In theory they might save valve stem seals from overheating, and all the rubber and gaskets near turbos. X5M S63 runs a bit lower coolant temp and does not have so many issues.
@@TKR-videos Was there anything else major you had to repair or did yourself? do you feel this is a reliable motor? I am looking at buying possibly a N63TU (revised version)
My engine is leaking from the bell housing and also in the front coming off a/c pump, also seen oil under alternator and when i shut my car off I see smoke coming from turbo area so I'm guessing that I need to pull my turbos and do this.. yikes.
No. It's just a common myth in all over internet that shorter oil change interval solves all the engine problems. Problem in N63 is the poor heat management design. Areas under turbos run too hot and gaskets can't hold. 2015 is N63TU engine and has some updates and slightly better cooling system.
@@TKR-videos the cats are held in place by a clamp on each side and 1-2 bolts. All I did was undo that bolt and cat was moving, thank you for your video
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
You remodel bathrooms that look showroom quality and in your spare time you rebuild BMW engines. Dude! You are my hero..
We bought a 2010 X5 N63 motor, motor needing service related repairs 100k kms. I will be removing the whole thing to do a full re seal and anything that they are known for. Probably the piston rings too. This video has given me so much clarity, I really appreciate it.
Awesome video! Thank your for showing. Maybe it will help someone reading this: Check your Turbo auxillary coolant pump, to make sure it's running while and after (~25min) you run the engine. That typically fails and leaves the turbos hot, oil hot, and allows the oil to boil and clog the oil lines. It throws codes, so check that, but doesn't throw a check engine light so may go years unnoticed, so with heat soak you'll get cooked oil and clogged lines. To check that coolant is flowing after the engine is off, just touch the left hose that leads to the pump, you should feel vibrations from the impeller and turbulent coolant flow. The feed line to the turbos also has some vibrations, but less. You might be able to feel it during engine running, but will be difficult. I put an ammeter on mine to check it, but that takes some wiring mods. Hope that helps some people out! I've had two pumps go in 15,000 miles, so beware, it's a weak part prone to failure, and can lead to clogged oil lines and Turbo failure. It has also been the part that lead to some recalls. (Updated: I show how to check in my last post)
David.
Thanks for your good comment! Definitely worth to check the codes and AUX pump operation every once in a while
Good advice. Another simple thing you can do is to avoid driving hard the last few minutes before you switch the engine off, and to let the engine idle about 30 to 60 seconds before you do so. This just helps excess heat to dissipate. I learnt this with military turbo engines.
@@roadstardelta Great advice!! It's always very hard to refrain from going hard, but I'll definitely do that! It's kinda like the turbo timer on the old cars.
Definitely worth doing to drop the temps and increase turbo lifetime.
Thanks for the advice! Myself and everyone else who reads that and idle to cool down the turbos will benefit!
Cheers,
David.
@@roadstardelta Excellent advice. I got 260K miles from Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo engine with original turbo before selling to collector, no oil consumption, great power by 3K (synthetic) mile oil changes and allowing the turbo to cool down before shutoff.
Helo brother.
My engine n63 f02 110000 km ..
Is very hot overheat engine temp...
Maybe whats the problem? Thank you
Good job! Refreshing to see someone else who actually cares about keeping stuff clean.
In the automotive world, a job is only as good as it is clean!
Also really nice editing :)
I love the Modern Talking mix to go along with this disassembly and repair. And so thorough and precise in cleaning everything up prior to reinstall!
u hot tho
I enjoyed that first song way more than I care to admit. Had my dad bod cutting shapes like Terry Crews in White Chicks for 4 minutes and 47 seconds Thanks for that.
Very satisfying to see how you cleaned the engine before installing the new parts, a clean engine is a happy engine 😃
Exactly what I needed to watch plus the Modern Talking in the background makes this a top tier video
Perfect I got it down! After 1 million pauses and stops. 😂. Great Job! Bro.
I appreciate these videos, my mom went ahead and purchased a 2010 750i recently and after i looked at all it problems im gonna have to dig in . Not my first rodeo but never seen or touched an N63 so every bit of info helps. The car is actually pristine with only 13k miles but im still going to get into it to try and remedy the common issues as well as give it a little more umph . My mom doesnt drive hard at all so it wont make much of a difference with the extra power, but I find it necessary to battle the extreme heat due to this terrible engineering nightmare lol.
That mileage is crazy, congrats to her, how’s it been?
@@Kyronsk8 it rides like a dream , feels like a brand new car despite the age of the vehicle . Currently have it in the garage as it’s getting some upgrades .
ARM intake
VRSF downpipes
84degree thermostat
Oil Cooler valve upgrade
JB4 Tuner
Downpipes, turbos , intercoolers and manifolds are all being Cerakoted . I’m not really doing this for the power as it is an older lady that will be driving it , but more so to keep cooler temps to save the motor from the typical problems caused by stupid engineering decisions lol .
More than ready to beat the brutal southern humidity and have peace of mind it won’t start dumping oil .
@@JAK1981 lmao I can see how all those upgrades can help with the cooling, but the jb4? Yeah I wonder how you convinced her to do that 😂😂😂
@@Kyronsk8 well I need the JB4 to tune everything together so it runs right , otherwise without a proper tune it could cause issues and run rich .
As the car will have power capabilities it can be tuned to just run smooth . Besides as fickle as these transmissions can be it won’t be at the track or racing on the freeway lol.
@@Kyronsk8 besides don’t underestimate my mom , she can drive haha. Back in the day I had a 500whp STi and she handled that just fine .
The song “Little old lady from Pasadena” perfectly describes her 🤣
Thanx for making this video. I have a 2011 BMW F10 550i xdrive. was quoted $2300 to replace leaking turbo coolant lines and the coolant hose behind the alternator which has a plastic swing y connector that cracked open. When i did the break down i found so much oil in the "valley" of the engine. This vehicle is pretty easy to work on once you get familiar with it. Im sure to address the oil leak alone would have jumped the price from $2300 to $3500 or more. All parts purchased I spent $850. Sometimes these mechanics break parts when disassembling and reassembling. They have a schedule. Also when its thier property people tend to be less careful or concerned. Two cracked crank case breather pipes, intakes for the turbos cracked at bolt fitting, y pipe cracked, all turbo lines leaking, and all parts you listed in your video for the oil leaks. Again thanx for such a great video.
Glad the video was helpful!
Did this issues caused smoke coming out your tail pipes ?
Came for the music, stayed for the bmw
Came for de miusic
You did a hell of a job! Left everything squeaky clean! I'm the same way...
Signed a fellow German auto tech
TK-R I respect your skills and knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
At 1:54 would that also be a good time to clean out the intake valves which will be full of carbon buildup?
those are exhaust valves. carbon would have been burned off
This engine uses an "inboard" exhaust configuration. On this setup the exhaust and intake locations are flipped. The intake manifolds are located on the sides of the engine under the valve covers, and the exhaust manifold is located up top in the valley pan. They did this to save space. There is no room to mount twin turbos in the conventional format. The Ford PS 6.7 also uses this configuration.
As for carbon blasting the intake tracts, well on the N63, one does that through the wheel wells.
Tearing one down now and its on the tougher/ involved setups especially with that hot vee and coolant lines and I've been on main line at dealers and indys. Once you try you get it.
Btw.. does the poster know if a rebuild in turbos was needed for the mileage the car had? Thanks.
I didn't open the turbos. I'm sure there were some burnt oil residue so cleaning the oil channels might have been good idea. Anyway no play in axels and wheels were spinning smooth.
Awesome video. Perfect angle to see most everything required. Thx for making this !
Total respect to your work and to the video quality and edit.
Thanks!
Came here to check how much work is involved in fixing this, and stayed for this sweet background music.
Nice repair of a badass engine! Considering one of these to pull my car to the track? When it's tuned, seems like it runs great!
Damn...I keep watching this video over and over again. Hypnotic.
Awesome video. I know what I'll be doing this spring :) Do you have a part list to go with this repair?
11427599233 Oil feed pipe
11427577010 Oil Return line bank1
11427577011 Oil Return line bank2
11657577016 OIL RETURN COVER (with gasket)
11428624158 Gasket Oil Return line (2 needed)
07119963072 Gasket Oil feed line (4 needed)
07119963201 Gasket ring Turbo coolant line (8 needed)
11627614095 Gasket Exhaust Maniford (2 needed)
11627576991 Gasket between manifold and Turbo (2 needed)
18307553601 Gasket between Turbo and Catalysator (2 needed)
@@TKR-videos you're the man. Thank you very much
Btw. I'm playing this song at my wedding 😁
@@TKR-videos Im having oil leaks by the coolant area and maybe some other area, bad smell in the Ac vent and smoke coming out in the muffler and I can see some oil by the muffler tips as well....is this repair you did will fix it or I need to do replace more stuff?
@@timlawz the problem is
It's a BMW 😅
I did this job on my X6 and I have mad respect for the uploader and anyone else who attempts this. Took me a month and a half on evenings and weekends... horrible job... absolutely horrible. I still dont know how he got the headers off without removing the downpipes. I removed them to get to back bolts (also a pain in the butt).
The catalysts are secured to the rear of the cylinder head with two 6mm allen bit bolts per side, plus the 3 bigger 7mm allen bit bolts up top. Once you release the band clamp around the turbos, along with aforementioned bolts, the catalysts will have significant end play due to the flex pipe design. Leaves you plenty of room to get your hands under and remove the manifolds.
That said, the official repair info calls to remove the cats, and I myself do it this way because I am very anal about cleanliness and the cats obstruct in the cleaning process. Catalyst removal only adds about another 30 minutes to the job believe it or not. You have to remove most of the same components to remove the turbos anyway. Catalyst removal only adds the need to remove the vacuum pump, the bottom rear splash shield (which should be removed regardless), and undo the exhaust collectors.
So how much would that labor and parts cost?
any special tools needed to remove the turbos???
How many hours was this approximately? I am considering upgrading the turbos on my G15 but not sure it's worthwhile.
I want to say that is amazing work, I am very impressed, considering how the BMW Dealership ruined my 2009 750i but not putting AntiFreeze in my after they did a factory recall work. They provide the car back to me dirty, no antivirus, and now I have found that they did not connect the left turbo charger correctly. The even charged me $1,846.88 to replace the turbo charger coolant lines. If anyone is wondering who this company is, it's BMW of Fairfax, in Fairfax Virginia.
Thanks. And sorry to hear. It's a complicated engine to work with and sometimes even the BMW mechanics fail to do the job. (Usually because they are in a hurry..)
Hope you got your 750i fixed and can still enjoy driving it!
Clean neat and professionally done👍🏻
That is a lot of work for just replacing the oil lines! Holy cow!
Yes it is. And it's lots of work to replace anything in BMW 50i engines. It is so packed under the hood and tear down takes hours.
What's a job like that run?
avoid 50i... notorious
Actually it's very easy compared to turbos mounted between the engine block and the wheel well as some might even consider dropping the subframe. It takes some time for the N63, but it's very, very accessible!
I'm definetely thinking more about a 550i!
Thanks for the video!
What would it cost for that perfection? Amazing work.
godammn this was both very useful for me and your music selection is bang on cracking.
Just got done doing that to my ActiveHybrid 7. No alternator on that car so saved a bit of time, but what a pain overall!
@TK-R can you show hw to do the 2 lower crankcase hoses? I dont want to take the entire engine apart if i dont have to
Please help me in removing the clamp which bolts exhaust to turbo. Did spend almost the whole day removing 1 of them i.e. driver side. Also once we remove the clamps and the t30 s to oil return line is anything else needed to remove the turbos?
I have an X6 with the n63, I had changed out majority of plastic tees with metal ones but retained factory hose. When I’m close to doing my change, I pour 1/4 btl of sea foam directly into turbo feed line. Helps to break down sludge buildup in the line and turbo inlet.
I just completed this repair. Took roughly 20-25 hours over about 2 weeks with 2 of us. Parts came to roughly $550. This completely removed the burning oil smell coming in through the vents. I've yet to see how much difference it will make in general for the vehicle consuming oil
What part did you order? I have the same issue and smoke coming out the exhaust too
Have you seen a difference yet ?
@@ValuableShort it didn't completely fix the smell. Sold the car.
How the hell did you managed to get to the bolt of the clamp thats connecting the turbo to the exhaust manifold???
well done from a very happy former BM-troubleYOU owner........................never again
Great job!! Can I ask what did you use for cleaning?
I think I used Armor All Wheel cleaner. It's goof stuff and cleans everything!
amzn.to/2YKtjvx
Thank you so much! this answered a question for me, as I'm getting prepared to upgrade my turbo's on my 550i to Pure Stage 1, and also will replace the oil and oil return lines, etc. (no oil leaking though but might as well since I'm opening her up) The procedure was telling me to remove the cats, and I couldn't figure out why it was needed, if only removing the turbos.
Inspirational! Just completed similar project and this video was very helpful
I'm glad if this video helps!
Wow that’s amazing mate. It literally took me 1 week just to change the valve cover gaskets. Hats off to you . Am currently trying to remove the oxygen sensor from the catalytic converters and that’s a pain
Just replaced the alternator -day one..(2011 550i m sport) -what a pain in the ass!!! Day two- pain in the ass. Replaced all turbo cooling lines and still have to tidy up some things before I can hit the road. 550i on second engine, under warranty with 16000 miles on new engine now, but the dealer uses all old components off old engine. The hoses were leaking slowly at the clamps and dripped on the alternator and burned it out. Otherwise the car is fine. 58k total miles on the body....The only easy thing on this vehicle is replacing the coil over plugs and spark plugs, brake pads.
m marmrcz reused the old hoses? I would cry foul immediately. That is a no no procedure. Not BMW approved. They are dumb, but not that dumb.
im impressed how do you remember were everything goes? wow. great job. I have a 2010
Hello for changing exhaust manifold seal we need to remove alternator like in your video or not ?
Thanks
The heat shield with oxygen sensors the bolts at back of heat shield rusted any advice on how to remove them? Also how hard was it to remove turbos and exhaust manifold pls I see in video you tried to reach in for some time before the exhaust manifold came off .... if you can clarify how hard to remove these thanks
@4:34 is that type of build up caused by neglect (10-13k + oil changes) or just the heat of the turbos?
Heat of the turbos especially when the separate turbo cooling system is not working... Sometimes because failed aux pump, too low on coolant, coolant leaks, air in the system...
The oil change argument will never stop. The fact is new oil will take more heat and will not contain the contaminants that harden the seals.
I wouldn't even put those turbos back on. You can get aftermarket turbos that are better. That engine looks really cool.
Came here for the procedure, stayed for the soundtrack 😎
Any tips on how you get to the back screw on the manifold?
it is so cool to hear Modern Talking and fix Ultimated Driving Machine. Right.
Very professional!
Great video brother
How did u get that bottom bolt off of the left turbo Ive been trying everything and can't get it it's the ones to the oil feed on the bottom
This engine is the Mother of heat
what a nightmare. I'm dealing with this right now. I was able to remove both heads without removing the engine.
Nothing pairs better with German car repair than Modern Talking eurodance remix :D
Well okay, you can mute the music!
T K-R music is awesome. Good taste. Keep up the good videos.
The music is cool
Cool
I loved Modern Talking 80S -90S.
I.......will not mute the music
Can you replace the timing chain and the timing chain guides without taking the engine out? Thank you!
I've seen photos someone doing it but you have to disassemble the front of the car completely. It's probably much faster to drop the engine with trans.
@@TKR-videos thank you
What was your shop time to do the disassembly, repair/cleanup and reassembly?
How did you get the exhaust bolt off the turbo to remove it
I did it with a chrome 3/8 drive swivel 13mm socket and extension if you can get a 1/4 in drive 13mm it will be easier imo
You work very fast
Thanks for the video. My coolant is low, I cannot see the leak, but I can hear leak after the engine is off. This video definitely help. Do you have the information on torque spec?
@T K-R I'm doing this job right now. What is the sensor that's attached to the turbo? I accidentally broke the line that's attached to it...not the connector, but the thin line (I didn't expect it to be brittle).
I understand this is for turbo oil return lines leaking into the valley and down the back of the engine. I have a lot of smoke (burning oil) coming from the top of the engine, seems like oil is dripping onto the exhaust manifolds or something else extremely hot. Could this be the same issue or does that sound like something else?
hi there what'd use to take off the stud bolts under the catalytic convertors? what size socket/wrench combo?
I have the exact car. 2013 x5 xdrive50i n63. I’m trying to tackle this on my own and haven’t talked myself into it yet. I definitely want to replace all the oil and coolant lines and turbo return housing. I know there is a ton of oil buildup. There has to be. My car has 120000 and runs like a clock
Good video, would I like to know the precision to tighten the nuts? Please
There was a web page called "newtis" that included all the BMW repair procedures including the torque specs. Try to find it or install BMW ISTA software on your windows laptop.
@@TKR-videos thanks and thanks for those amazing video I repair my car 🚗 watching your video.....
Warranty will pay this guy 4hrs for all his work. Because they did the entire job with the engine out of the vehicle.
I need to do this to my E70. I think I could do about 65% of this (with three weeks in the evening), but would need some support for the other 35%. Wonder how I could find a good advisor/pro that could fill in the gap.
I have a 550i 2013 change the pcv valves because they had oil in them change oil to 5w-40 and it still smokes no check engine light on
Do you know the torque specs on the exhaust manifold?
Check this www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-550i-lim/repair-manuals/18-exhaust-system/18-40-exhaust-manifold-with-integrated-catalytic-converter/1LdV8yPs
and torque specs here: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-550i-lim/repair-manuals/18-exhaust-system/18-40-exhaust-manifold-with-integrated-catalytic-converter/5cTTVzI
15Nm
How much to do mine ?
Any chance I can get a little bit slower version with audio instructions? I’ve had two shops do thousands do dollars of work for a coolant leak they can’t fix so I’m going to do this myself what you did in this awesome video! I need your help pretty please!!!!
Neat video! What were the symptoms that suggested the oil return lines were so clogged? What's your opinion on the long-term reliability of the N63, given the rash of issues related to turbos, injectors, batteries, and valve-stem seals?
I didn't have any symptoms on turbo oil lines. I believe the oil was still flowing through and they got completely clogged only when removed, twisted and splitter apart.
I wouldn't recommend early years N63 to anyone who doesn't like to DIY. Newer 2014--> N63TU is more reliable because improved design. These are crazy expensive to maintain if you take them to shop because engine bay is so full that it takes hours of labor to replace anything. Valve stem seals are the biggest problem after 70k miles. Injectors are under BMW warranty for 10years.
Every owner should keep their battery fully charged and replace it often enough. Battery power is needed for the turbo coolant pump, which MUST run after every engine shutdown for 10 minutes or everything will be cooked under the hood.
Thanks for the reply. When you say "turbo coolant pump," does that refer to the electronic water pump? The N54 (in my 335i) has that as well, which runs after car shut-off.
N63 V8 has 2 coolant pumps. The main one is belt driven, and the auxiliary pump is electric. The electric pump runs 10-30min after shut off to cool down turbos.
mrmax1984 I think he is referring to n63’s intercooler’s water pump system. The n54 is air to air cooled, the n63 is water to air cooled . Thank you for the info TK-R!
How many hours shop time would you estimate ? Wonder what an indy shop would charge for labor and parts...
Love the music, what are the name of the songs and singers?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_Talking
Any help with the torque specs to all this stuff?
How did you get the first manifold bolt under downpipe? I’ve been trying for a whole day with no luck. Advice is highly appreciated! Thanks )
In the description it says that this issue is misdiagnose with the rear main seal. So in your experience has the rear main seal ever been a problem that you come across?
I don't do this for living so I really don't know. What I've seen on discussion forums and groups is that upper oil pan gasket and turbo oil return cover are the most common leaks.
4:38 what is this ? Oil ?
What tool did you use to take the acoustic shield off? I have spline sockets or the weird universal sockets that I used for the the star bolts. What else did you use
Inverted torx. They are size E8.
Hi i have a bmw 750li f02 with the issue of exhaust gas smell in the car. do you know what it can come from? the exhaust manifold gaskets have been changed but the problem is still present
Hallo..nice job.
How I cant know is oil return line Not good.what is symptôme.thanks
Oil leak behind the engine. It might be mis-diagnosed to be rear main seal leak because drips down from same area.
@@TKR-videos thanks man
What parts need to be replaced for this job? I noticed a gasket on the turbo you replaced and I can't find the part number for that. Minute 4:50
18307553601 Gasket between Turbo and Catalysator (2 needed)
T K-R thanks a lot! I just did the job. No more leaks! Replaced the lines, including gaskets seals and replaced both pcv valves since they cracked upon removal. paid about $400 in labor here. Not bad compared to the USA, but still burning oil. Worried what else can go wrong. I love this car but I can say I’m a little fed up. :/
How often you have to add one quart or liter? I had Valve stem leaks, turbo oil return cover leak and upper oil pan leaks in my X5. After everything fixed it consumes 1qt per 2000miles (1l per 3200km) which is not too bad, and BMW says it's normal. My car burned 1qt/600ml (1l/1000km) before the repairs.
T K-R after replacing seals, lines, and gaskets, no more leaks. But my bmw is still burning about 1q every 400 miles. I know I must replace valve seals but not sure whether that will eliminate the problem entirely or only add a few hundred miles per quart consumed... not sure whether the job may be worth it.
Can you tell me how long did it take you!?!!
Did you drain the coolant/oil before doing this?
I severely need to do this on my f15…. I thought it was my valve stem seals causing oil consumption but pretty sure it’s one of the turbos
Did any of that have to be torqued ?
Excellent video and nice clean up. I'm in the middle of the same job on an X5M. What are thoughts on adding turbo blankets to protect non turbo parts?
Sorry late reply. I don't have experience on blankets. In theory they might save valve stem seals from overheating, and all the rubber and gaskets near turbos. X5M S63 runs a bit lower coolant temp and does not have so many issues.
Hallo do you have before smoke on idle when you put gas
the music somehow goes good with this.
German music and German car. There is something weird how they match 👍
How many miles did your N63 have before this Maintenance? Great job and awesome DIY video!
This repair was done at 90k miles but it was probably leaking already at 70k
@@TKR-videos Was there anything else major you had to repair or did yourself? do you feel this is a reliable motor? I am looking at buying possibly a N63TU (revised version)
My engine is leaking from the bell housing and also in the front coming off a/c pump, also seen oil under alternator and when i shut my car off I see smoke coming from turbo area so I'm guessing that I need to pull my turbos and do this.. yikes.
Bardzo dobra robota 👍👍
Would changing the oil more often have made any difference? I have it changed every 5000 miles. 66000 miles on my 2015 550ix. So far no problems.
No. It's just a common myth in all over internet that shorter oil change interval solves all the engine problems. Problem in N63 is the poor heat management design. Areas under turbos run too hot and gaskets can't hold. 2015 is N63TU engine and has some updates and slightly better cooling system.
How long did it actually take to do the repair?
Do you offer this service?
How did you remove the back bolts on the exhaust manifold
The ones under the cats?
11mm open end Spanner
@@aimized1460 no swivel head needed?
loosen the bolts holding cats behind the engine next to firewall, and then you are able to push cats backwards enough to get the tools in there..
@@bryankernan6862 there is no room buddy lol
@@TKR-videos the cats are held in place by a clamp on each side and 1-2 bolts.
All I did was undo that bolt and cat was moving, thank you for your video
Mad skills to do this wow good work
wish he did something about that by turbo y vent hose. heat shield for the hose and the plastic y.
What are u using for cleaning?
Great video, but heat is still there, how long until next failure? .BMW use to be a great brand , I hope it will be again but nos with N63 engines.
🤯 amazing!
Do you guys know what’s the torque of the manifold bolts ?
Amazing Job bro.. Love the music!!!
I can't find your version of "Cheri Cheri Lady". Who is the artist/album for this version you have in your video?
It's still Modern Talking. Some of the Chery Chery Lady remixes. I don't know the year the remix was made.