I bought a 2000 chevy suburban like you, in September 2013. It is now 2023 and it has 360,000 miles on it and she still runs. I love it. Best vehicle I've ever purchased. It had 200,00 miles on it when I purchased it. I haven't had to put very much into repairs in all the years I've owned it. Around 3,000 total. I highly recommend this vehicle.
My '03 Suburban 5.3L, 4WD, Z71 had 275,000 miles on it when I bought it 7 years ago. I recently sold it with 335,000 miles, and it still runs strong!!!...😇
How much did you get for it? I’m about to purchase one with the same mileage. A lot of preventative maintenance, brand new leather seats, freshly painted, tires he’s asking 3k
I have a 2005 Yukon XL I bought it at auction it turned out it had spun, bearing and blown head gasket. Luckily I work on these types of engines I pulled out the engine took everything apart honed the cylinder walls replaced the piston rings, cleaned everything. I inspected the block to. Make sure it didn’t damage the block where the cam bearing sat. . It didn’t damage the block at all. It just came out. So I Installed new cam bearings and main bearings and I pretty much did OEM rebuilt on it. I installed new LS lifters pushrod and that 5.3 purrs like it’s brand new. The truck only has 139,000 miles and it is in pristine condition now that I put money into it it beats buying a 50k-80k truck or SUV. I love this generation of suburbans and Yukons.
Those suburbans are TOUGH! we sold ours about 5 years ago and it was one just like your and we got a 2016 toyota sienna. I love our toyota, but you just can't go wrong with a suburban with how practical they are. I miss our old one SO MUCH, we had so many memories in it and took it everywhere we went.
Haha, I've had most of these problems on my 2005. For the lifter tick, my mechanic recommended a product called "Justice Brothers Engine Tune Up". It's hard to find, but I put it in a couple of months ago when I changed my oil, and the tick vanished. I had tried other products before that to no avail. Also, make sure you use full synthetic oil. So far it works for me.
I have a 2000 1500 suburban with no 4x4 that I purchased for $1500.00 from family 😊. 189,000 miles And I have only two of these issues. The aux fuse which I’m going to change asap. And a very small tick from the lifter. I’m about to convert it and pray. But this suburban has never left anyone in my family stranded. Thank you so much for the piece of mind.
No mention of the single working running light?? It’s not a suburban unless one of them is out! Suburban camper, I’m so happy I found this video. I will soon be taking ownership of the ‘01 royal blue ‘burban that my family has had since I was in kindergarten. The long shots of your campsites nearly brought a tear to my eye, thinking of all the love (and money) I plan to turn into many more memories with “the beast”. I don’t believe there are any other people on this platform who offer both the lifestyle and (in-depth, knowledgeable) mechanical aspects of having one of these fantastic vehicles the way you do. Thank you in advance for much more helpful content! 14:25 😊
Indeed, you are correct and I should have included that! I truly appreciate everything you said. It is comments like yours that keeps me producing content,
I changed all the window regulators in my 2004 chevy suburban LT. Started with the front passenger and I learned to do it myself watching videos. Then the driver side went and replaced that one. Then one day both rear windows went at the same time and 2 days later my 2012 dodgeram passenger side went. I have become a professional at replacing the regulators in my cars. LOL I have saved a bunch of money doing it myself. I have done each for about an average of $100.00. Mean while a shop wanted to charge me $600.00 for 1. Saved myself a ton of money and learned something in the process.
In Mexico, they replace them or repair each window for $30 each and it takes about an hour or less. I replaced my own, because they charge too much to do it and they take too long. I paid $45 for the part and it took me an hour to install the new track, but it's 100% again.
I have a 2000 Z71 GMC Sierra with 420,000mi ! Now it's due for new cats & intake gasket. I've had that cold tick noise since I bought it with 30,000 miles! Original coils too. Replaced fuel pump, water pump, transmission, & raideader. Besides normal brakes, tires and sparkplug it has done great!!!
have a 2005 suburban. absolutely love it. it’s always been extremely reliable. tires leak a bit and the front bumper is rusted to hell, but it has a special place in my heart. good car
Be sure and change the T connections on the heater hose where it it connects to the heater core. Those break after years and have left people stranded. I went ahead and changed all the hoses, belts, idler and tension pulleys for peace of mind. Great video, I've been enjoying watching all your videos.
Thanks Jim. I appreciate your comment and support. Good point on heater hose connection. I just had all the belts replaced and was thinking hoses would also be good idea. I am doing it all in stages. Did not think about the pulleys, so thanks for pointing that out. Lot to be said for peace of mind when you are in the middle of nowhere! Have you replaced the fuel pump? Mine seems to act up after a fill and will struggle to idle, but just for a bit and then it is fine.
@@SuburbanCamping I haven't replaced the fuel pump yet, I have an 01 GMC truck with only 36k miles and the fuel pump went out so it's an age thing also. It did give me warnings that I didn't heed, it wouldn't want to start quickly on the first crank but on the second crank would start right up also it was louder than usual. I really hate changing them, it's such a pain to drop the tank, but I probably will one of these days. The truck left me stranded 2.5 miles from the house, still cost 80 bucks to have the roll back truck bring it back to my garage. Definitely get those T connections changed, I have heard so many horror stories about those things breaking and overheating the engine.
I bought a 2006 gmc Yukon xl Because the space and we love camping, and because it is almost 20 years old, we were afraid to drive farther, but after taking the chance to get to gran canyon from California, we loved, we already did three trips to the east cost, and, is unbelievable how confortable and reliable are this trucks and no a single issue, Thanks for the info, definitely going to needed to, keep it going traveling in this great yukon, Great video, And congratulations
Thank you for sharing! As long as you do some things to "future proof" these vehicles such as replacing old parts even though they are still working, then I totally trust them for the long haul. Getting ready for my annual ski trip where I will drive 1,500+ miles!
Great video, I like the practicality of your outlook. If the vehicle is essentially solid, repairs are gonna be better than car payments for a new vehicle.
So many people don’t understand that concept. We had lifter tick noise in our 2011 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 Hemi for a couple years before it started running rough with no power. Had to get new lifters and cam, and while we griped over the cost, we reasoned it was cheaper than trying to buy a different truck. It should be good for another 170,000 miles.
@@anagray7521 I have an ‘04 Suburban LS and I absolutely love the looks of this car! These were the bees knees when I was in high school and still the 00-06 Tahoe’s, Suburbans, Yukon’s and XLs are one of my favorite looking SUVs of all time.
My wife has a 2001 Tahoe with 264,000 miles and it had the lifter tick and it got really bad so I found a used engine out of a 2001 suburban with 120,000 miles and swapped the engine last weekend and it runs like it’s brand new now! We bought the truck at exactly 200,000 miles for $750 because the transmission was bad to we spend $2200 to have the transmission rebuilt back in 2016 when we bought it. The old engine had a leaking rear main seal so I installed a new one on the new engine. Other than a fuel pump that went bad the truck never let us sit, we would drive it anywhere and for being 20 years old it’s in good condition and still very reliable! She loves her Tahoe as much as you love your suburban.
Thanks for the comment Jim and for all the great info. It is great when people keep them going like you have done. Love the fact you bought it for $750! What a deal!
Great video. I bought my 05 Suburban with 107K for $6100 in 2018. I’ve been very happy with it but I would not recommend it for someone who can’t fix cars themselves. I probably have 30 issues right now that I won’t bother with, many of which I’ve had since I bought it 60 000 miles ago, such as leaking water pump, trans fluid leak, problematic AC blend door (close it manually through glove compartment) etc. first thing I did was to get new seat foam and new seat leather for front seats. Well worth the investment.
Thanks for the comment and great info. Totally agree, they are a better fit for those who can fix cars. That is probably true for most 10+ year old vehicles. I have struck a balance between doing some repairs myself and paying someone to do the bigger jobs, so I can spend more time exploring and camping. Love the idea of new seat foam and leather - it is on my list!
Totally understand where you're coming from. Just think if it was ford it would not be running with multiple issues, it would instead be belly up and probably in a junk yard getting ready to be crushed.
@mbb1981 consider fixing your blend door issue. The part is only $30-40 online and it isn't that hard to do. I was doing the same "manual" switch until I replaced mine, and then I asked myself why I lived with it that long. You can do it.
RMBB, very good point. If ya can't do all but the specialty work it will get expensive. It's a GM so ya know it will nickel and dime ya once you hit 100K miles. I've owned 5 Suburbans from 4 different generations. 270K on my 9th generation 2005. Best one as far as reliability and maintenance was a 1966. I'll never buy anything newer than the 9th generation. GM abandoned their quality commitment back in 1970 and although they have improved some they aren't built to last. Uncle was a quality control VP for GM from the 1950s through the early 70s. He left GM after they made the decision to switch over to imported electronics, components, and inferior parts. He drove only GM products up until this time but never after.
I have a 2001 Suburban with 165,000 miles. I bought it 5 years ago with 130,000 miles. It’s extremely reliable. I’ve only spent money on tires, battery, brake pads and regular maintenance. I’ve never had the engine tick, but it does have piston knock after a cold start, and lasts about 30 seconds. My ‘02 Avalanche has the same issue with the 5.3. The Avalanche has 195,000. Most reliable vehicles I have ever owned.
They are great engines and run a long, long time with regular care! The newer ones are more of a problem due to AFM, different sized lifters and today's poor workmanship. Yes, American Mfgrs. have it all together and, then, throw it all away trying to be clever. Japanese trend to always improve and never to fall backwards - love their contribution to auto technology, but NOT our sad USA gov. contribution - the later sucks!!
We have a 2003 - we purchased it new and will drive it until we can't drive it any more. Don't have all of these, but we recently replaced the camshaft detection sensor. Drove it back east - driving 75 miles an hour it just shut off. Pulled over, started right up. This happened 5 times in the 2,300 mile journey. Replaced the mass air-flow sensor, fuel filter, checked the fuel pump - no error codes. Looked on-line and determined it might be the camshaft detection sensor - replaced and we will see. Only 179,000 miles, so it is practically new. Great video. Oh, and the oil pressure gauge doesn't work, but it doesn't burn oil and I check it every time I fill up.
@@SuburbanCamping Oil gauge goes from all the way left (0) to all the way right (80) depending on how long I drive it. Engine runs extremely well - never burns any oil, so I guess I am fortunate. Enjoy your old burb.
I can’t believe you didn’t mention the blend door actuators. I have owned 3 suburbans between the 01-06 year models and had this issue with all of them. They blow hot air, usually on the drivers side, with the AC on.
Just buying a 2004 Z71 in great shape that has many of these problems. Just wanted to say that I'm certain my 05 Impala had the same Blend door problem but mechanic never figured it out. A/C was checked several times and never did cool like it should. I noticed with A/C off warmer air than outside temp came through vents indicating a door was not closing heater off completely.
Oh yeah blend door actuators are super common on GM vehicles from this era. That was the only issue I had with my 00 Cavalier, and I had to change it 3 times!!
Great video. I have a 2001 Tahoe and have the same and do the same thing you do dealing with the lifter tick. I have 400,000 plus miles on her. I will not let her go. I do most of the work on her myself, but I also no my limits.
Great video and info on these great SUVs. My Tahoe had the parking brake problem I replaced nearly everything and still didn't hold. I ordered new rear cables and adjusted again and now it holds. The rear cables get stretched and only replacing fixes it. Now I only use the parking brake when I need it. Over use or getting wet when launching the boat (freshwater) i think caused it. My 2004 Tahoe LT with 267,000 miles. Lost oil pressure and engine started knocking at 240,000 miles. Had engine replaced with new GM engine from General Motors with good warranty by my local trusted shop ( Owned by same family since 1947 ) It has the "smooth ride package" great original shocks from Sachs. Got new original GM front shocks from Amazon. Rear original shocks still as good as new, they handled a giant boat 8k lbs with now sag. Original transmission, Change Trans fluid & filter every 30k miles. Ordered new headlights and fog lights but the trick of keeping fog lights from falling apart is to use waterproof gutter sealant on lens all the way around, even the headlights to keep water out (common problem on all headlights even new ones.) Good quality Tahoe built here in Arlington TX. Will keep it forever and get plenty of complements on how well its kept up. I try to keep everything fixed and clean. I have always had the Michelin LTX M/S tires, they last forever and get me through deep snow, shallow riverbeds and deep in the mountains. Well I have gone on too long.
I have replaced my lifters with ls7 lifters, and it now runs wonderfully! 250 without gaskets, 400 with. Took me a week, and it was the best thing I've done! Another issue I've had was the intake manifold shrinking when cold, causing the intake gaskets to leak, and run extremely poorly when under 20 degress F. To fix it I tightened the intake more when doing the lifters, and replacing the gaskets.
Well done on the lifters! I still have a tick and the only thing left to try before I replace lifters is replacing the oil pickup tube o-ring. Is this something you did? Thanks for the tip on the intake manifold!
Don't forget to clean out the drain holes in the rear of the sunroof. There are 4 drain holes. Two go down the A pillars and two go down the B pillars. The rear holes are usually the problem.
As far as the lifter tick. I found a super easy fix that cost about $20. I used Lucas oil stabilizer in my 05 Yukon Denali. I put one court of it into every oil change and it worked perfectly. Also I only use full synthetic oil. Give it a try.
2001 Sub 4x4 2500 LT w/8.1 Vortec. That's 496 c.i. Almost indestructible. GM tested it. Wide open throttle for 12 days. No issues. Mine has 155k. I used to tow a lot with it.
Thank you for this helpful informative video! Our 2003 z71 suburban has been sitting for a long time ~2yrs and I’m in the process of getting it ready to be a camping car! Have run into 6 out of 10 of these issues including the pack rat who took up residence in 2009😂. Really appreciate the solid advice!
Thanks for the info 03 yukon XL SLT 4x4 Paid 3200 on it with 142k miles Had bald tires. Upgraded to 18” rims and Toyo AT tires ($1000) AC pump blew up ($1000) Did window regulator myself Put over 20k miles on to. It’s been to 7 states in 2 years. Recently did rear brake, axles seals and bearings. And out a new stereo in it Love this rig. It’s not maintenance free but it’s easy to work on (unlike a ford) And compared to 60k plus for a new one…. I am the son of a mechanic so I don’t mind getting a little grease on my hands
I just bought a 1999 surban. Its clean inside and out. Runs good don't use oil or have any problems with the motor or transmission . Don't leak oil or transmission fluid. My friend was the second owner. I will be # three. The best above all is there's absolutely no problems to the oil, transmission or radiator leaks. The best thing ever is I paid 350.00 , but in all honesty I bought it from my best friend.
Love my 2002 GMC Sierra with the 5.3 with 407,000 miles. Tick Tick Tick. Thanks for your help! Camping! I started with a 2005 Chevrolet Hightop Conversion Van with AWD. Kind of a climb to get in and out of it and felt too trucky. Worked well until a tree feel on it. Then a 2004 Chevrolet Turtle To shuttle bus with a dually rear end. Nice little apartment but if you want to go to the grocery store and such, it's a 3500 TRUCK! Yuck! So now I'm Suburban shopping. 2003 - 2006. Stay away from the newer ones!!! Drives like a car even though it's a real truck and I have a lot of experience in that cockpit. Had a 2003 Avalanche too. Every time I got into it, I would say, "I love this truck."
Thanks for the video and recap of known problems. I just bought a 2002 Suburban and I'm in the process of doing repairs. 235,500 miles. Rear view mirror temp reading for some reason is very dim, though it comes on brighter some times. Looks like I need to replace a few parts in the front steering. A lot of slop. Replaced drivers side mirror. Did not know of that other plug for LED directionals. Passenger side dont show anything. Maybe my model does not cover it.
I have a 2003 same package and color, the only have had 2 of the problems on your list the stereo and steering column at 215000k... but good video I’ll be on the lookout for the other 10
No problems here, solid truck, some rust, fuel pump died but warned me long before that happened. Ac needed to recharge, other than that runs great very comfortable 4x4 and has good mpg for the size doesn’t change much when you load it down. So overall great, better than most other cars on the market now.
i have a 005 tahoe LT for almost 10 years , and a never had any of these problems, NOTHING !! OIL SENSOR ONCE, REPLACE IT EASY, AND I LOVE MY TAHOE !!!
On the main seal, there's a short fix you might consider. Instead of removing the trany to get space for a new gasket, you can create a gap and cut the upper part of the new gasket so you can add on some gasket maker and replace the seal without full removal - one mechanic did that for me on a vehicle and never had any problem with it.
I’m looking at a 2003 Suburban with 132k for 6k, would you say that’s a fair deal? Everything seems in good shape minus the A/C compressor. Will be taking it this week for a PPI to my mechanic but if all checks out good do you think it’s a good buy?
Yes Steve it sounds like a good price range especially considering the strange times we're in with the used car market going haywire. Good luck with it and enjoy.
Just found your channel and subscribed. I have a 2004 that needs a few repairs. It's been sitting for over a year, mostly because I got access to a company car. But I'm now planning some outdoor adventures, and I need "the beast" up and running.
My windows right now are missing up but I have 2003 260k miles, I’ve re done my suspension including my wheel bearings, I’ve had my transmission re done, including water pump, my gas canister I forgot what exactly it’s called but it’s connected to your gas tank, and I’ve re done my pig tails and my back lights also I haven’t had that leak, but I take mine hunting Almost every weekend, love this truck
Very useful video and a realistic point of view. As a Tahoe 840 owner I can confirm that a vehicle around 20y old will always have things to work on. If searching to buy, go for the pre-facelift with as little additional comfort features as possible. Also when my shocks were needing replacement I put Bilstein on the front and KYB on the back. Not expensive, and improve handling a lot.
why the mix between BIlstein and KYB? I put BIlsteins on Front&Rear of my 03z71 suburban a couple years ago and they improved handing dramatically...wondering if I should consider KYB for the next build...
@@piquedosage - I always go with KYB and they were the best for my Volvos back in the day, but I also put them on my Suburban and, now, my GMC Envoy as well - hard to find a better shock for the price!!!!!! They are made in Japan, I believe, but they are the best.
When you get the rear main seal replaced have them replace the oil pump pick up tube O-ring as well. I had the lifter tick as well and just lived with it until I thought to myself I replaced a lot of things on my 2000 Tahoe engine but I did not replace the pick up tube O-ring. When I dropped the oil pan (which is not fun have a 4x4) I realized that the O-ring was dried and brittle. After replacement not only did my oil pressure improved (a lot) but my lifter tick was gone as well. I wish I did that sooner... If you have not done so already when it's time for the heater core that will be a lot of fun. If you want to tackle the job yourself prepare to set aside a lot of hours. My first go at it took about 11hrs (in between breaks and swearing) Now I can do it in a few if I have to do it again (hopefully I won't!). I believe a garage will charge about $1200.00-2k depending on who you go to. I still love my Tahoe. She drives good, looks good (after a few cosmetic changes) and best of all no car payments!
I had a 2000 Suburban, but didn't have the seat issue, and it barely leaked any oil at all. The fuel pump and fuel pump lever failure are common and I did have to replace a fuel pump, which also fixed the gas guage issue at the same time. I had the lifter tick the whole time, never caused a problem.
Thanks for sharing this info! The fact the lifter tick never caused an issue gives me peace of mind, but I will probably still chase down the solution!
As For the " Stretched Out Emergency Brake Cable... Leaving No Further Adjustment " - All You Have to Do is Design a Rectangle Block of Aluminum / or Steel, Drill a Hole Thru, Just so the Cable Thread Slides Thru.... Slide it Back against the " Double Cable Bracket, Giving More of the Cable Length That was Lost. The Cable will work just like New, and will give You "Future Adjustments ", as well...if Not, Change up to a Thicker Block of Metal... (Also Flat Washers and Lock Washer will Help keep the Cable Secured ). I hope You can Follow the Concept. BillinL.A. 11-20-21
I replaced the factory subwoofer with a Memphis Audio 8". The Memphis 8" wasn't a shallow mount. I used the factory subwoofer spacer that was on the outside of the speaker as a spacer behind the Memphis and it was enough to mount the 8". I plan on using an after market amp to power it. If you plan on using the factory subwoofer, make sure you buy a 2 ohm subwoofer.
Just yesterday 6/6/24 I purchased a 2002 suburban z71 for 1300 240000 miles engine starts and drives great 4x4 works no ticks no rust paint is good 15 minute drive Horn did not work until i cleaned the contacts where the airbag is Only thing i know that it has issues on Is the side mirrors, rear main seal Was it a good purchase?
Mines got over 350000+ still my daily and commute 2 hours or More a day and like you said just keep up with them and most the time they’ll treat you well……. The gas I burn though is craziness for sure hahahahaha
I have an 02 Z71 with the Flex Fuel 5.3L. I have what I assume is just a cold start rod knock as it goes away after the block gets up to temp and a slight oil leak that I think is from the valve cover gaskets as the first one was the oil pressure sensor and it wasn’t the rear main. I recommend checking the oil pressure sensor unless the shops have fully confirmed it is the rear main.
You missed 1 of the most reported problems sir ! Oil pressure guage failure. My 2005 2500 Suburban has that issue.. But at 260,000 miles..I just keep an eye on the oil level and drive it...
Yes, thanks Brian. That is a big one. The 12 problems are only the ones I have experienced, but I may expand it and do another video on all known problems.
Love these trucks. On my 2nd 2004. First was a Z71. Sold it with 275k to someone using it as a daily driver. 2nd (current) is an LT with a Z package. At 199k the LT got the lifter tick. I just used Seafoam with clean oil for 118 miles and the tick has just about cleared. Sounds so much better! Changed the oil again and put Liqui Moly in until my next oil change to see if that helps more.
Thanks for the comments and info Andrew. I have narrowed my tick down to either an exhaust leak or a lifter tick. Once I fix the exhaust leak (replace broken manifold bolts), I will have my answer!
They are tanks! Would love to get one for the versatility: people hauler and camping rig. I know someone whose 2WD 2001 Suburban was getting ready to turn over 500,000 miles, original engine and transmission. All he did was the scheduled maintenance on it listed in the owner’s manual. Unfortunately, it was stolen a few months ago from the hotel parking lot in Dallas where he was staying while on a business trip.
You won't have an issue with the ticking until the oil pressure drops. The recommended fix is to replace the oil pump rather than replace the engine though replacing the engine will obviously work.
Oh dear.. to increase the oil pump pressure no need to change it just adjust the pump relief valve spring small bolt one turn or just add a plate washer above the spring adjuster bolt nut
Your hazy mirror was might have been due to leaking electrochromic liquid for the auto dimming feature. The power for the heat is thru 2 wires that plug into tabs on the back of the mirror. The connector on the back of the mirror is for the directional light in the mirror and the auto dimming function (4 wires). If there were only 2 wires on the connector of your old mirror, then they were for the directional led lights in the mirror.
I had the lifter tick, but took the valve covers off and took out the rockers, and cleaned the varnish off every rod and every rocker and put it all back together and I now have zero tick. Might be worth the time and effort to see if it eliminates it.
@@SuburbanCamping bummer! My 12 year old son and I did the job together last summer and I haven't heard the tick since. Something for the back of your mind next time you have to get down in there!
Very nice info. But you could add a few other common issues with it, fuel float lever sending unit will not work right and fail giving you a inaccurate reading on your gauge,your gauge panel will stop working due to loose solder connections and light bulbs burning out. To let people know this also applies to the Tahoe,Cadillac ,Cadillac EXT,GMC Yukon and Yukon XL from 2000 to 2006 model years. I have a 2204 Tahoe LT with 190 thousand kilometres here in Canada ,plus I’m the third owner of this family run vehicle.
Thanks for the comment Ernie and for the additional info. At this point, I am sticking to the issues I have experienced. I may do an update down the road to include issues others have experienced. My research indicates the instrument cluster is very common.
@@SuburbanCamping Check out SMA's video on the GM instrument cluster fix - there is a place that you can send in your cluster and they will repair it. Two issues are common, dry & cracked solder joints on the big resistors, and silver migration causing small electrical shorts leading to battery drain. ruclips.net/video/lhJpJHp9Ud4/видео.html
My 04 LT has 255,000mi. Still thumping right along. Lifter tick doesn't bother me. Probably did that when it was new. Mine needed a actuator to fix 4wd message. Now EVERYTHING works! BLUE DEVIL oil additive slows the oil leak to the point of stopping. Mine is actually a ALL WHEEL DRIVE.
I wouldn't mess around with the lifter tick. I have a 2006 Tahoe (5.3/L59) that was doing this due to low oil pressure. We put in a Melling 295 with new oring and pickup tube to fix the low oil pressure and lifter tick. It was also an opportune time to change the rear main, pan and front cover/crank seal too.
We did that job in March 2022 and has been gone ever since. We drove it ticking for several months but the oil pressure just kept getting worse, around 15 at warm idle and 25 going down the road. The ticking what we believe was air leaking past the oring causing the lifters not to stay pumped up. That, along with a few other preventative items it was money well spent before the whole thing blew up. At that point, anything was cheaper than a crate motor.
I have over 320000 miles on my '01 Suburban and it's still very reliable, but most amazingly the engine remains tight and running perfectly well using no oil at all, BUT the downsize to owning any large SUV is the gas mileage - we get only 16 mpg and there's no fix for THAT!!! I also have an Envoy V8 and it's more complicated and costs a lot more to maintain; however, it's a joy to drive.
@@SuburbanCamping I used mine for touring Mexico and it was reliable and ideal given driving is a tad more dangerous in Mexico due to the roads. Most roads do not have shoulders and some that do have the opposing lanes, but large shoulders meant to be a 3 lane Hwy. where passing is allowed given drivers drift onto the shoulders so other vehicles and pass using the "middle". Some tourists get their sides shaved if they fail make room for the passing car ; )
2005 Tahoe. If the interior ever goes dead, follow the parking brake release cable and you may find it leaning against a black box in a galvanized bracket. Move the cable away and everything will work again.
Man , if can get a low mileage LS engine and Transmission imagine how much more capable your truck could become!! I can’t wait to put one in my 2005 suburban z71 . But that lil 5.3L runs like a champ and it’s well north over 140,000 and still going. I keep good oil and do regular maintenance and continues to run like a champ!
Are you sure you don't have an exhaust manifold leak? These engines typically have a slight lifter tick which is normal; however, sometimes an exhaust manifold leak resembles a lifter tick. This is also a common issue on these engines and is often caused by one or more broken exhaust manifold bolts. You can sometimes feel the leaking exhaust pressure pulse but not always. Due to thermal cycling, it's not uncommon for these bolts to break on high mileage engines, especially if over torqued when installed. Unfortunately, removing the broken bolt usually requires removing the cylinder head, especially for the rear bolts. There are special clamps that can be installed in lieu of replacing the broken bolt but I've never used one. Instead, I removed the (driver side) head and removed the broken bolts. BTW - replacing the engine is ONLY cheaper than replacing lifters (or even rebuilding an engine) if you have a dealer do it.
I have a similar suburban with broken exhaust manifold bolts, and the sound of an exhaust leak is quite a bit different. The one in the video was more metallic, but mine just sounds like a tick.
My 2006 suburban 4x4 has 202,000 the speed sensors acting up and not to bad to fix. And the rear window shows a fault but it closes. Replaced the air compressor and air shocks common problem
I have an 03 with the service 4 wheel drive warning. Changed the switch and it still comes on. Cleaned the ground wire, still comes on. 4 wheel drive still works fine though.
Thanks for sharing this Tragan. It it works, then it is not a problem! Since the switch did not fix it, the issue is probably with the torque converter control solenoid. So, if it does stop working, I would try replacing that.
Wow, that is some ticking.... The DEALERSHIP??? ECK!!!! I rebuilt the engine with a worn cam and replaced the clicker for 1.8K. I rebuilt engine runs about 3.2K. Repairing these Old War Ponies is a LOT Cheaper than buying a current, over-engineered, poor parts, stupid add-ons and to many computers for 50-100K..... Keep on Truckin!!
Instead of investing in the rear main seal repair and tune up why not just replace the engine. It would suck to put money into the engine and have that lifter tick come and bite ya. Thank you for sharing your experience with your new to you suburban. It's given me some good pointers for when I go hunting. See ya round.
Good question David and thanks for the comment. I would love to drop an LS engine in it! 😀 I agree there is a point of no return, but I don’t think I am there yet. The tick is always on my mind, but for the amount of money I am putting into it, we are probably talking about a used engine and who’s to say it would not also have the tick? I guess I am just committed to seeing this all the way through and keeping it as original as possible.
Check you pcv valve before changing you main seal ....its a 5 minute just and the part is about 20 $ .it well fix your leak .or maybe you can just take it out and clean it maybe it will fix
For the valve tic solution just replace the PCV valve n inspect n fix all the oil leaks around the engine n pay attention to the sensor switch leakage, after all fixing you must adjust the oil pump to increase pressure by adjusting relief valve spring one turn to+ After all use a sentitic oil n replace with a new filter n use select additives (UK made)
Have a 2006 with 102,000 miles, runs great but I had a problem with a fishing line wrapping around my drive shaft, two rear ends an $3,200.oo later, runs real good but I have to listen to the rear end howling. Surburban is in great shape inside and out so I guess I will have to turn up the radio.
I have a 2001 Yukon Xl I bought new and currently has about 140k on it. Still runs smooth. Had to replace a power steering pump, and recently I had my A/C go out. There was a GMC bulletin saying the issue may be slugging which is a build up of sludge in the system and it causes the tensioner pulley to bounce around like crazy and ultimately banging against the stop and then snapping the belt. I've contacted a couple of GMC garages about this and they have no clue about what I am talking about. I am now weighing out whether to do the repairs myself per the recommended repairs stated on the bulletin because it would be about $1200.00 plus tax. But it'll cost me a lot to have the unit pumped out and then recharged by a garage. Other issue is my autoride stopped working so I gotta try and figure that out. Other issue is my brake light and ABS light once in a while pops on. Not sure if it is a bad ground or something. And lastly my driver side mirror has the defrost and the auto dimming features also and it developed the fog issue and I cannot locate a direct replacement for it anywhere. Found like one used possibilty online and it was priced high and no guarantee. I can't even just replace it with an aftermarket mirror minus the auto dim feature because the mounting arrangement of the tabs on the mirrors I have found online are very slightly different but enough that it won't work on my mirror's base. All in all I still love my Yukon.
Got all my speakers at Walmart and sub on Amazon. Switched to single Din cd player but need new harnesses which I had to combine with purchasing 2 from Walmart and Amazon. I have yet to figure out the oil pressure guage even after changing the sensor. Also had cam sensor before my 2001 stopped running
My 2002 model just had the fuel pump died at 210,000 miles. I should have got it fixed immediately when my car started taking two tries to start, because it only lasted two weeks after that. I also have some kind of oil leak I need to get fixed. Somehow it keeps running low on oil every 2 months, but there's no drips🧐
02 Tahoe here same color as yours. I had my rear main seal done by an independent mechanic for $700. Also you missed intake gasket and knock sensors are very common, I did mine at 125k. The task looks over whelming, but it’s not that difficult.
I bought a 2003 loaded 4x4 brand new and sold it 10 years later with 90,000 miles. 5.3 engine . I couldnt take it anymore. My vehicle never missed servicing and was garage kept . Common problems: Serpentine belt pulley freezes up ✔ Instrument cluster failure ✔ Coil failure ✔ Frame rusts out ✔ Brake lines rust out ✔ ABS failure ✔ Steering colum rattle ✔ Rear seat release snapped ✔ Check engine light short ✔
I have a 2002 5.3 vortec with 300k, Engine tick is fixed by replacing the rubber O ring which is located where the oil pick up tube connects to the oil pump. The tick is caused by air getting into the oil pump. I'm not a mechanic by any means and I fixed it myself. Tick stopped immediately after replacing.
My 2005 Tahoe Z71 does the same tick.. my H wants to replace engine I told him to just do it until it gives out. It has 260+k miles still running with the ticking sound 😅
I bought a 2000 chevy suburban like you, in September 2013. It is now 2023 and it has 360,000 miles on it and she still runs. I love it. Best vehicle I've ever purchased. It had 200,00 miles on it when I purchased it. I haven't had to put very much into repairs in all the years I've owned it. Around 3,000 total. I highly recommend this vehicle.
Thank you for sharing this! Well done!
My '03 Suburban 5.3L, 4WD, Z71 had 275,000 miles on it when I bought it 7 years ago. I recently sold it with 335,000 miles, and it still runs strong!!!...😇
Well done!
How much did you get for it? I’m about to purchase one with the same mileage. A lot of preventative maintenance, brand new leather seats, freshly painted, tires he’s asking 3k
@miggy9260 I paid $800.00 for it. I bought it from my neighbor
I have a 2005 Yukon XL I bought it at auction it turned out it had spun, bearing and blown head gasket. Luckily I work on these types of engines I pulled out the engine took everything apart honed the cylinder walls replaced the piston rings, cleaned everything. I inspected the block to. Make sure it didn’t damage the block where the cam bearing sat. . It didn’t damage the block at all. It just came out. So I Installed new cam bearings and main bearings and I pretty much did OEM rebuilt on it. I installed new LS lifters pushrod and that 5.3 purrs like it’s brand new. The truck only has 139,000 miles and it is in pristine condition now that I put money into it it beats buying a 50k-80k truck or SUV. I love this generation of suburbans and Yukons.
Well done! Got to love a cast iron block!
Those suburbans are TOUGH! we sold ours about 5 years ago and it was one just like your and we got a 2016 toyota sienna. I love our toyota, but you just can't go wrong with a suburban with how practical they are. I miss our old one SO MUCH, we had so many memories in it and took it everywhere we went.
Thanks for the comment. Glad for all the memories!
Great video, This generation is so much better than the plastic Suburbans of today.
Thank you very much! I agree with your assessment!
Haha, I've had most of these problems on my 2005. For the lifter tick, my mechanic recommended a product called "Justice Brothers Engine Tune Up". It's hard to find, but I put it in a couple of months ago when I changed my oil, and the tick vanished. I had tried other products before that to no avail. Also, make sure you use full synthetic oil. So far it works for me.
Thanks! I will give it a try!
@@SuburbanCamping I have a yukon with 225
K I now know what makes the steering rattle
that “oil” just lubricates better it’s just temporary
Mine is doing the same thing... dreading changing all the lifters
@@SuburbanCamping did the tick go away?
I have a 2000 1500 suburban with no 4x4 that I purchased for $1500.00 from family 😊. 189,000 miles And I have only two of these issues. The aux fuse which I’m going to change asap. And a very small tick from the lifter. I’m about to convert it and pray. But this suburban has never left anyone in my family stranded. Thank you so much for the piece of mind.
You are welcome! Welcome to the family!
No mention of the single working running light?? It’s not a suburban unless one of them is out! Suburban camper, I’m so happy I found this video. I will soon be taking ownership of the ‘01 royal blue ‘burban that my family has had since I was in kindergarten. The long shots of your campsites nearly brought a tear to my eye, thinking of all the love (and money) I plan to turn into many more memories with “the beast”. I don’t believe there are any other people on this platform who offer both the lifestyle and (in-depth, knowledgeable) mechanical aspects of having one of these fantastic vehicles the way you do. Thank you in advance for much more helpful content! 14:25 😊
Indeed, you are correct and I should have included that! I truly appreciate everything you said. It is comments like yours that keeps me producing content,
I changed all the window regulators in my 2004 chevy suburban LT. Started with the front passenger and I learned to do it myself watching videos. Then the driver side went and replaced that one. Then one day both rear windows went at the same time and 2 days later my 2012 dodgeram passenger side went. I have become a professional at replacing the regulators in my cars. LOL I have saved a bunch of money doing it myself. I have done each for about an average of $100.00. Mean while a shop wanted to charge me $600.00 for 1. Saved myself a ton of money and learned something in the process.
Well done Hawk!
In Mexico, they replace them or repair each window for $30 each and it takes about an hour or less. I replaced my own, because they charge too much to do it and they take too long. I paid $45 for the part and it took me an hour to install the new track, but it's 100% again.
This vehicle is fairly easy to work on if you have any mechanical interest and tools available (tool library available in some places). ❤
Good Info .. Even 2 years later .. Just picked up a 03 .. 1 Owner .. 116K & Converting it to a "Summer Nomad" .. Going be a GREAT SUMMER!
Thanks Curt! Very happy for you!
I have a 2000 Z71 GMC Sierra with 420,000mi ! Now it's due for new cats & intake gasket. I've had that cold tick noise since I bought it with 30,000 miles! Original coils too. Replaced fuel pump, water pump, transmission, & raideader. Besides normal brakes, tires and sparkplug it has done great!!!
Wow! That is great Corey. Glad to know there is another ticking engine out there still running strong. Very impressive on the 420K!
have a 2005 suburban. absolutely love it. it’s always been extremely reliable. tires leak a bit and the front bumper is rusted to hell, but it has a special place in my heart. good car
Nice!
Be sure and change the T connections on the heater hose where it it connects to the heater core. Those break after years and have left people stranded. I went ahead and changed all the hoses, belts, idler and tension pulleys for peace of mind. Great video, I've been enjoying watching all your videos.
Thanks Jim. I appreciate your comment and support. Good point on heater hose connection. I just had all the belts replaced and was thinking hoses would also be good idea. I am doing it all in stages. Did not think about the pulleys, so thanks for pointing that out. Lot to be said for peace of mind when you are in the middle of nowhere! Have you replaced the fuel pump? Mine seems to act up after a fill and will struggle to idle, but just for a bit and then it is fine.
@@SuburbanCamping I haven't replaced the fuel pump yet, I have an 01 GMC truck with only 36k miles and the fuel pump went out so it's an age thing also. It did give me warnings that I didn't heed, it wouldn't want to start quickly on the first crank but on the second crank would start right up also it was louder than usual. I really hate changing them, it's such a pain to drop the tank, but I probably will one of these days. The truck left me stranded 2.5 miles from the house, still cost 80 bucks to have the roll back truck bring it back to my garage. Definitely get those T connections changed, I have heard so many horror stories about those things breaking and overheating the engine.
Myn broke on the way back from key west. The hose will fit back on the extension refill coolant back on the road till part comes in.
I bought a 2006 gmc Yukon xl
Because the space and we love camping, and because it is almost 20 years old, we were afraid to drive farther, but after taking the chance to get to gran canyon from California, we loved, we already did three trips to the east cost, and, is unbelievable how confortable and reliable are this trucks and no a single issue,
Thanks for the info, definitely going to needed to, keep it going traveling in this great yukon,
Great video,
And congratulations
Thank you for sharing! As long as you do some things to "future proof" these vehicles such as replacing old parts even though they are still working, then I totally trust them for the long haul. Getting ready for my annual ski trip where I will drive 1,500+ miles!
Great video, I like the practicality of your outlook. If the vehicle is essentially solid, repairs are gonna be better than car payments for a new vehicle.
Thanks John! I appreciate you taking the time to say that.
F ing eh! I always think that after I look at a car payment. Even an engine or trans replacement is likely less than a years payments on a newish car.
I drive a 04 yukon 4x4 I was parked next to a 2021 Tahoe today and I would rather mine the bumpers on 2021 look like those on a Corolla
So many people don’t understand that concept. We had lifter tick noise in our 2011 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 Hemi for a couple years before it started running rough with no power. Had to get new lifters and cam, and while we griped over the cost, we reasoned it was cheaper than trying to buy a different truck. It should be good for another 170,000 miles.
@@anagray7521 I have an ‘04 Suburban LS and I absolutely love the looks of this car! These were the bees knees when I was in high school and still the 00-06 Tahoe’s, Suburbans, Yukon’s and XLs are one of my favorite looking SUVs of all time.
My wife has a 2001 Tahoe with 264,000 miles and it had the lifter tick and it got really bad so I found a used engine out of a 2001 suburban with 120,000 miles and swapped the engine last weekend and it runs like it’s brand new now! We bought the truck at exactly 200,000 miles for $750 because the transmission was bad to we spend $2200 to have the transmission rebuilt back in 2016 when we bought it. The old engine had a leaking rear main seal so I installed a new one on the new engine. Other than a fuel pump that went bad the truck never let us sit, we would drive it anywhere and for being 20 years old it’s in good condition and still very reliable! She loves her Tahoe as much as you love your suburban.
Thanks for the comment Jim and for all the great info. It is great when people keep them going like you have done. Love the fact you bought it for $750! What a deal!
Great video. I bought my 05 Suburban with 107K for $6100 in 2018. I’ve been very happy with it but I would not recommend it for someone who can’t fix cars themselves. I probably have 30 issues right now that I won’t bother with, many of which I’ve had since I bought it 60 000 miles ago, such as leaking water pump, trans fluid leak, problematic AC blend door (close it manually through glove compartment) etc. first thing I did was to get new seat foam and new seat leather for front seats. Well worth the investment.
Thanks for the comment and great info. Totally agree, they are a better fit for those who can fix cars. That is probably true for most 10+ year old vehicles. I have struck a balance between doing some repairs myself and paying someone to do the bigger jobs, so I can spend more time exploring and camping. Love the idea of new seat foam and leather - it is on my list!
Totally understand where you're coming from. Just think if it was ford it would not be running with multiple issues, it would instead be belly up and probably in a junk yard getting ready to be crushed.
@mbb1981 consider fixing your blend door issue. The part is only $30-40 online and it isn't that hard to do. I was doing the same "manual" switch until I replaced mine, and then I asked myself why I lived with it that long. You can do it.
RMBB, very good point. If ya can't do all but the specialty work it will get expensive. It's a GM so ya know it will nickel and dime ya once you hit 100K miles. I've owned 5 Suburbans from 4 different generations. 270K on my 9th generation 2005. Best one as far as reliability and maintenance was a 1966. I'll never buy anything newer than the 9th generation. GM abandoned their quality commitment back in 1970 and although they have improved some they aren't built to last. Uncle was a quality control VP for GM from the 1950s through the early 70s. He left GM after they made the decision to switch over to imported electronics, components, and inferior parts. He drove only GM products up until this time but never after.
Excellent. I just purchased a 2001 GMC so I'll be watching for these issues.
Awesome! Welcome to the club!
WOWWWW.....
all of those you call problems..
are a regular lovely maintenance for Me!!!
Good for you Odi! Thanks for watching and for the comment.
I have a 2001 Suburban with 165,000 miles. I bought it 5 years ago with 130,000 miles. It’s extremely reliable. I’ve only spent money on tires, battery, brake pads and regular maintenance.
I’ve never had the engine tick, but it does have piston knock after a cold start, and lasts about 30 seconds. My ‘02 Avalanche has the same issue with the 5.3. The Avalanche has 195,000. Most reliable vehicles I have ever owned.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this!
They are great engines and run a long, long time with regular care! The newer ones are more of a problem due to AFM, different sized lifters and today's poor workmanship. Yes, American Mfgrs. have it all together and, then, throw it all away trying to be clever. Japanese trend to always improve and never to fall backwards - love their contribution to auto technology, but NOT our sad USA gov. contribution - the later sucks!!
We have a 2003 - we purchased it new and will drive it until we can't drive it any more. Don't have all of these, but we recently replaced the camshaft detection sensor. Drove it back east - driving 75 miles an hour it just shut off. Pulled over, started right up. This happened 5 times in the 2,300 mile journey. Replaced the mass air-flow sensor, fuel filter, checked the fuel pump - no error codes. Looked on-line and determined it might be the camshaft detection sensor - replaced and we will see. Only 179,000 miles, so it is practically new. Great video. Oh, and the oil pressure gauge doesn't work, but it doesn't burn oil and I check it every time I fill up.
Yes, cam sensor is common. You are brave man on oil pressure gauge! Probably just the sensor….I hope!
@@SuburbanCamping Oil gauge goes from all the way left (0) to all the way right (80) depending on how long I drive it. Engine runs extremely well - never burns any oil, so I guess I am fortunate. Enjoy your old burb.
I can’t believe you didn’t mention the blend door actuators. I have owned 3 suburbans between the 01-06 year models and had this issue with all of them. They blow hot air, usually on the drivers side, with the AC on.
Thanks for sharing this info
Just buying a 2004 Z71 in great shape that has many of these problems. Just wanted to say that I'm certain my 05 Impala had the same Blend door problem but mechanic never figured it out. A/C was checked several times and never did cool like it should. I noticed with A/C off warmer air than outside temp came through vents indicating a door was not closing heater off completely.
Oh yeah blend door actuators are super common on GM vehicles from this era. That was the only issue I had with my 00 Cavalier, and I had to change it 3 times!!
Great video. I have a 2001 Tahoe and have the same and do the same thing you do dealing with the lifter tick. I have 400,000 plus miles on her. I will not let her go. I do most of the work on her myself, but I also no my limits.
Thanks for sharing this Bob!
Great video and info on these great SUVs.
My Tahoe had the parking brake problem I replaced nearly everything and still didn't hold. I ordered new rear cables and adjusted again and now it holds. The rear cables get stretched and only replacing fixes it. Now I only use the parking brake when I need it. Over use or getting wet when launching the boat (freshwater) i think caused it.
My 2004 Tahoe LT with 267,000 miles. Lost oil pressure and engine started knocking at 240,000 miles. Had engine replaced with new GM engine from General Motors with good warranty by my local trusted shop ( Owned by same family since 1947 )
It has the "smooth ride package" great original shocks from Sachs. Got new original GM front shocks from Amazon. Rear original shocks still as good as new, they handled a giant boat 8k lbs with now sag.
Original transmission, Change Trans fluid & filter every 30k miles.
Ordered new headlights and fog lights but the trick of keeping fog lights from falling apart is to use waterproof gutter sealant on lens all the way around, even the headlights to keep water out (common problem on all headlights even new ones.)
Good quality Tahoe built here in Arlington TX. Will keep it forever and get plenty of complements on how well its kept up. I try to keep everything fixed and clean.
I have always had the Michelin LTX M/S tires, they last forever and get me through deep snow, shallow riverbeds and deep in the mountains.
Well I have gone on too long.
Great info G B! Thanks for sharing!
I was quoted $500 by a mechanic to change out our break light. Thank you for posting.
Yikes! You are welcome!
I have replaced my lifters with ls7 lifters, and it now runs wonderfully! 250 without gaskets, 400 with. Took me a week, and it was the best thing I've done!
Another issue I've had was the intake manifold shrinking when cold, causing the intake gaskets to leak, and run extremely poorly when under 20 degress F. To fix it I tightened the intake more when doing the lifters, and replacing the gaskets.
Well done on the lifters! I still have a tick and the only thing left to try before I replace lifters is replacing the oil pickup tube o-ring. Is this something you did? Thanks for the tip on the intake manifold!
Don't forget to clean out the drain holes in the rear of the sunroof. There are 4 drain holes. Two go down the A pillars and two go down the B pillars. The rear holes are usually the problem.
Great tip Omarr! Thanks!
As far as the lifter tick. I found a super easy fix that cost about $20. I used Lucas oil stabilizer in my 05 Yukon Denali. I put one court of it into every oil change and it worked perfectly. Also I only use full synthetic oil. Give it a try.
Thank you! I will do just that. I started running full synthetic with my last oil change and it seemed to help a bit.
I've recently purchased a 2002 GMC Yukon...374,500 on the odometer!
Runs like a Champ!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
What all you had to change when purchasing?
2001 Sub 4x4 2500 LT w/8.1 Vortec. That's 496 c.i. Almost indestructible. GM tested it. Wide open throttle for 12 days. No issues. Mine has 155k. I used to tow a lot with it.
Nice!
Thank you for this helpful informative video! Our 2003 z71 suburban has been sitting for a long time ~2yrs and I’m in the process of getting it ready to be a camping car! Have run into 6 out of 10 of these issues including the pack rat who took up residence in 2009😂. Really appreciate the solid advice!
You are welcome and thanks for the positive feedback! Glad to know your Suburban will be back on the road!
I have the same exact suburban, 4x4 2000..she’s now a 24 year old vehicle ❤love her
Twinsies! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the info
03 yukon XL SLT 4x4
Paid 3200 on it with 142k miles
Had bald tires. Upgraded to 18” rims and Toyo AT tires ($1000)
AC pump blew up ($1000)
Did window regulator myself
Put over 20k miles on to. It’s been to 7 states in 2 years. Recently did rear brake, axles seals and bearings. And out a new stereo in it
Love this rig. It’s not maintenance free but it’s easy to work on (unlike a ford)
And compared to 60k plus for a new one…. I am the son of a mechanic so I don’t mind getting a little grease on my hands
Thanks for sharing all this info Darcy. Yes, the ability to do some of the work is key!
I just bought a 1999 surban. Its clean inside and out. Runs good don't use oil or have any problems with the motor or transmission . Don't leak oil or transmission fluid. My friend was the second owner. I will be # three. The best above all is there's absolutely no problems to the oil, transmission or radiator leaks. The best thing ever is I paid 350.00 , but in all honesty I bought it from my best friend.
That is what friends are for! 😀
I have a 01 Suburban LT with 296k miles and drive it from Memphis to Houston 😊😇
Nice! Thanks for sharing this.
02 Silverado and bought it new. Had a lifter tick since new. Turning 600,000 miles on it.
Sweet!
This is such a great video for people in the market for one of these vehicles. Thank you so much for taking the time for doing this.
Thanks Trent!
Love my 2002 GMC Sierra with the 5.3 with 407,000 miles. Tick Tick Tick. Thanks for your help! Camping! I started with a 2005 Chevrolet Hightop Conversion Van with AWD. Kind of a climb to get in and out of it and felt too trucky. Worked well until a tree feel on it. Then a 2004 Chevrolet Turtle To shuttle bus with a dually rear end. Nice little apartment but if you want to go to the grocery store and such, it's a 3500 TRUCK! Yuck! So now I'm Suburban shopping. 2003 - 2006. Stay away from the newer ones!!! Drives like a car even though it's a real truck and I have a lot of experience in that cockpit. Had a 2003 Avalanche too. Every time I got into it, I would say, "I love this truck."
407k with tick, tick, tick is encouraging! Thanks for sharing that. Based on your experience I know you will find a great Suburban. Good luck!
Thanks for the video and recap of known problems. I just bought a 2002 Suburban and I'm in the process of doing repairs. 235,500 miles. Rear view mirror temp reading for some reason is very dim, though it comes on brighter some times. Looks like I need to replace a few parts in the front steering. A lot of slop. Replaced drivers side mirror. Did not know of that other plug for LED directionals. Passenger side dont show anything. Maybe my model does not cover it.
You are welcome! Good luck with your Suburban. There is additional info on repairs at my website: www.suburbancamping.com/common-repairs.
I have a 2003 same package and color, the only have had 2 of the problems on your list the stereo and steering column at 215000k... but good video I’ll be on the lookout for the other 10
Thanks for sharing this info John. I appreciate the comment!
No problems here, solid truck, some rust, fuel pump died but warned me long before that happened. Ac needed to recharge, other than that runs great very comfortable 4x4 and has good mpg for the size doesn’t change much when you load it down. So overall great, better than most other cars on the market now.
Thanks for sharing this info Gary.
i have a 005 tahoe LT for almost 10 years , and a never had any of these problems, NOTHING !! OIL SENSOR ONCE, REPLACE IT EASY, AND I LOVE MY TAHOE !!!
Awesome! Very happy for you and your Tahoe!
On the main seal, there's a short fix you might consider. Instead of removing the trany to get space for a new gasket, you can create a gap and cut the upper part of the new gasket so you can add on some gasket maker and replace the seal without full removal - one mechanic did that for me on a vehicle and never had any problem with it.
Interesting. Thanks for the tip!
Ballsy mechanic, haha
I also had this done once on a Volvo and never had any problem, too, and it's more economical than doing a full separation to keep the gasket perfect.
Great stuff, I have an 04 LT with 274k. Wonderful SUV's, highly recommended
Yes indeed! Thanks for the comment Shawn.
I’m looking at a 2003 Suburban with 132k for 6k, would you say that’s a fair deal? Everything seems in good shape minus the A/C compressor. Will be taking it this week for a PPI to my mechanic but if all checks out good do you think it’s a good buy?
Yes Steve it sounds like a good price range especially considering the strange times we're in with the used car market going haywire. Good luck with it and enjoy.
@@stevencastro2856 that would be a great deal over here in Calif! I’m seeing 8th and 9th gen Burbs with 160-190,000 miles going for $10,000
Great professional reflection
Thank you Muhanad. I appreciate the positive feedback!
I really got some great information out of your video! Keep them coming!👍💯
Thank you Michael! Will do!
Just found your channel and subscribed. I have a 2004 that needs a few repairs. It's been sitting for over a year, mostly because I got access to a company car. But I'm now planning some outdoor adventures, and I need "the beast" up and running.
Long live THE BEAST!
So happy my 2003 2500 came with the LQ4. 210k and no issues.
Had the parking brake issue.
Jealous of your 2500!
My windows right now are missing up but I have 2003 260k miles, I’ve re done my suspension including my wheel bearings, I’ve had my transmission re done, including water pump, my gas canister I forgot what exactly it’s called but it’s connected to your gas tank, and I’ve re done my pig tails and my back lights also I haven’t had that leak, but I take mine hunting Almost every weekend, love this truck
Thanks for sharing this and glad your Suburban is going strong. I just did the gas canister - its official name is fuel vapor canister.
Very useful video and a realistic point of view. As a Tahoe 840 owner I can confirm that a vehicle around 20y old will always have things to work on. If searching to buy, go for the pre-facelift with as little additional comfort features as possible. Also when my shocks were needing replacement I put Bilstein on the front and KYB on the back. Not expensive, and improve handling a lot.
Thanks for the comment and info Pepe!
I would have used KYB all around - they are GREAT shocks!!!!
why the mix between BIlstein and KYB? I put BIlsteins on Front&Rear of my 03z71 suburban a couple years ago and they improved handing dramatically...wondering if I should consider KYB for the next build...
@@piquedosage - I always go with KYB and they were the best for my Volvos back in the day, but I also put them on my Suburban and, now, my GMC Envoy as well - hard to find a better shock for the price!!!!!! They are made in Japan, I believe, but they are the best.
When you get the rear main seal replaced have them replace the oil pump pick up tube O-ring as well. I had the lifter tick as well and just lived with it until I thought to myself I replaced a lot of things on my 2000 Tahoe engine but I did not replace the pick up tube O-ring. When I dropped the oil pan (which is not fun have a 4x4) I realized that the O-ring was dried and brittle. After replacement not only did my oil pressure improved (a lot) but my lifter tick was gone as well. I wish I did that sooner...
If you have not done so already when it's time for the heater core that will be a lot of fun. If you want to tackle the job yourself prepare to set aside a lot of hours. My first go at it took about 11hrs (in between breaks and swearing) Now I can do it in a few if I have to do it again (hopefully I won't!). I believe a garage will charge about $1200.00-2k depending on who you go to.
I still love my Tahoe. She drives good, looks good (after a few cosmetic changes) and best of all no car payments!
Thanks for sharing all this great info!
Great info, thank you for sharing this info and the resources.
You are welcome! Thanks for commenting.
I had a 2000 Suburban, but didn't have the seat issue, and it barely leaked any oil at all. The fuel pump and fuel pump lever failure are common and I did have to replace a fuel pump, which also fixed the gas guage issue at the same time. I had the lifter tick the whole time, never caused a problem.
Thanks for sharing this info! The fact the lifter tick never caused an issue gives me peace of mind, but I will probably still chase down the solution!
As For the " Stretched Out Emergency Brake Cable...
Leaving No Further Adjustment " - All You Have to Do is Design a Rectangle Block of Aluminum / or Steel, Drill a Hole Thru, Just so the Cable Thread Slides Thru.... Slide it Back against the " Double Cable Bracket,
Giving More of the Cable Length That was Lost.
The Cable will work just like New, and will give You "Future Adjustments ", as well...if Not, Change up to a Thicker Block of Metal...
(Also Flat Washers and Lock Washer will Help keep the Cable Secured ). I hope You can Follow the Concept. BillinL.A. 11-20-21
Thanks!
I replaced the factory subwoofer with a Memphis Audio 8". The Memphis 8" wasn't a shallow mount. I used the factory subwoofer spacer that was on the outside of the speaker as a spacer behind the Memphis and it was enough to mount the 8". I plan on using an after market amp to power it. If you plan on using the factory subwoofer, make sure you buy a 2 ohm subwoofer.
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
Just yesterday 6/6/24
I purchased a 2002 suburban z71 for 1300
240000 miles engine starts and drives great 4x4 works no ticks no rust paint is good
15 minute drive
Horn did not work until i cleaned the contacts where the airbag is
Only thing i know that it has issues on
Is the side mirrors, rear main seal
Was it a good purchase?
I think so! Well done!
Mines got over 350000+ still my daily and commute 2 hours or More a day and like you said just keep up with them and most the time they’ll treat you well……. The gas I burn though is craziness for sure hahahahaha
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing this info.
Gas is Insane. I could go thru a quarter tank a day easily
I have an 02 Z71 with the Flex Fuel 5.3L. I have what I assume is just a cold start rod knock as it goes away after the block gets up to temp and a slight oil leak that I think is from the valve cover gaskets as the first one was the oil pressure sensor and it wasn’t the rear main. I recommend checking the oil pressure sensor unless the shops have fully confirmed it is the rear main.
Thanks for sharing this!
Awesome video. You are very helpful!
Hello Kris. Thanks for the comment and glad you found it helpful!
@@SuburbanCamping you are welcome. You are easy to listen to and follow. And it is nice you actually read our comments. 👍
Thank you for making this!
You are welcome!
Great video , I bought one a year ago and I love mine ❤ z71 version
Nice!
Just bought a 2001 Chevy suburban 1500 with 166104 and I’m taking it to the Chevy dealership for a full inspection.
Well done! Welcome to the club!
You missed 1 of the most reported problems sir ! Oil pressure guage failure. My 2005 2500 Suburban has that issue.. But at 260,000 miles..I just keep an eye on the oil level and drive it...
Yes, thanks Brian. That is a big one. The 12 problems are only the ones I have experienced, but I may expand it and do another video on all known problems.
Love these trucks. On my 2nd 2004. First was a Z71. Sold it with 275k to someone using it as a daily driver.
2nd (current) is an LT with a Z package. At 199k the LT got the lifter tick. I just used Seafoam with clean oil for 118 miles and the tick has just about cleared. Sounds so much better! Changed the oil again and put Liqui Moly in until my next oil change to see if that helps more.
Thanks for the comments and info Andrew. I have narrowed my tick down to either an exhaust leak or a lifter tick. Once I fix the exhaust leak (replace broken manifold bolts), I will have my answer!
@@SuburbanCamping I hope the time and cost is minimal. 👊🏾
@@SuburbanCamping My lifter tick came back with a vengeance. Replaced the engine. Couldn’t not think about it while driving.
They are tanks! Would love to get one for the versatility: people hauler and camping rig. I know someone whose 2WD 2001 Suburban was getting ready to turn over 500,000 miles, original engine and transmission. All he did was the scheduled maintenance on it listed in the owner’s manual. Unfortunately, it was stolen a few months ago from the hotel parking lot in Dallas where he was staying while on a business trip.
Thanks for the comment. Sorry to hear about the theft!
You won't have an issue with the ticking until the oil pressure drops. The recommended fix is to replace the oil pump rather than replace the engine though replacing the engine will obviously work.
Thanks for the comment Bryan. I will continue to keep a close eye on the oil pressure!
Oh dear.. to increase the oil pump pressure no need to change it just adjust the pump relief valve spring small bolt one turn or just add a plate washer above the spring adjuster bolt nut
Oil pickup tube o ring
Your hazy mirror was might have been due to leaking electrochromic liquid for the auto dimming feature. The power for the heat is thru 2 wires that plug into tabs on the back of the mirror. The connector on the back of the mirror is for the directional light in the mirror and the auto dimming function (4 wires). If there were only 2 wires on the connector of your old mirror, then they were for the directional led lights in the mirror.
Thanks for the comment RJM and for the helpful info.
@@SuburbanCamping Yes, auto dim function.
Excellent review
Thank you Bill. I appreciate you taking the time to say that.
I had the lifter tick, but took the valve covers off and took out the rockers, and cleaned the varnish off every rod and every rocker and put it all back together and I now have zero tick. Might be worth the time and effort to see if it eliminates it.
Thanks Scott! Wish I had done this when I replaced the valve cover gaskets!
@@SuburbanCamping bummer! My 12 year old son and I did the job together last summer and I haven't heard the tick since. Something for the back of your mind next time you have to get down in there!
Very nice info. But you could add a few other common issues with it, fuel float lever sending unit will not work right and fail giving you a inaccurate reading on your gauge,your gauge panel will stop working due to loose solder connections and light bulbs burning out. To let people know this also applies to the Tahoe,Cadillac ,Cadillac EXT,GMC Yukon and Yukon XL from 2000 to 2006 model years. I have a 2204 Tahoe LT with 190 thousand kilometres here in Canada ,plus I’m the third owner of this family run vehicle.
Thanks for the comment Ernie and for the additional info. At this point, I am sticking to the issues I have experienced. I may do an update down the road to include issues others have experienced. My research indicates the instrument cluster is very common.
@@SuburbanCamping Check out SMA's video on the GM instrument cluster fix - there is a place that you can send in your cluster and they will repair it. Two issues are common, dry & cracked solder joints on the big resistors, and silver migration causing small electrical shorts leading to battery drain. ruclips.net/video/lhJpJHp9Ud4/видео.html
I only have the oil leak problem with 260k miles I love my 2002 suburban
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this Robert.
My 04 LT has 255,000mi. Still thumping right along.
Lifter tick doesn't bother me. Probably did that when it was new. Mine needed a actuator to fix 4wd message. Now EVERYTHING works!
BLUE DEVIL oil additive slows the oil leak to the point of stopping. Mine is actually a ALL WHEEL DRIVE.
Thanks for sharing. Interesting on the all wheel drive. Did not know that was an option on Suburbans...thought it was just Yukons.
Man my AC blew out I have no AC in my 2003... I ride with all the windows down " and Blasting heavy metal music
Thanks for the comment Darkone. We used to call that 470 AC - 4 windows down at 70MPH. Rock on Darkone!
Okay I just fixed The transmission 900$
Im at. (153475 ) miles * .. still run smooth I only use it to go to work. Oil change coming soon
@@SuburbanCamping how long does a transmission usually last when it's replaced ?
I wouldn't mess around with the lifter tick. I have a 2006 Tahoe (5.3/L59) that was doing this due to low oil pressure. We put in a Melling 295 with new oring and pickup tube to fix the low oil pressure and lifter tick. It was also an opportune time to change the rear main, pan and front cover/crank seal too.
Did the lifter tick go away? I am considering doing O-ring and pickup tube as the last option.
We did that job in March 2022 and has been gone ever since. We drove it ticking for several months but the oil pressure just kept getting worse, around 15 at warm idle and 25 going down the road. The ticking what we believe was air leaking past the oring causing the lifters not to stay pumped up. That, along with a few other preventative items it was money well spent before the whole thing blew up. At that point, anything was cheaper than a crate motor.
I have over 320000 miles on my '01 Suburban and it's still very reliable, but most amazingly the engine remains tight and running perfectly well using no oil at all, BUT the downsize to owning any large SUV is the gas mileage - we get only 16 mpg and there's no fix for THAT!!! I also have an Envoy V8 and it's more complicated and costs a lot more to maintain; however, it's a joy to drive.
Thanks for sharing this info! Yes, gas mileage is not good, but I only use mine for camping for the most part, and drive a hybrid to offset!
@@SuburbanCamping I used mine for touring Mexico and it was reliable and ideal given driving is a tad more dangerous in Mexico due to the roads. Most roads do not have shoulders and some that do have the opposing lanes, but large shoulders meant to be a 3 lane Hwy. where passing is allowed given drivers drift onto the shoulders so other vehicles and pass using the "middle". Some tourists get their sides shaved if they fail make room for the passing car ; )
Yikes!
2005 Tahoe. If the interior ever goes dead, follow the parking brake release cable and you may find it leaning against a black box in a galvanized bracket. Move the cable away and everything will work again.
Thanks for the tip!
Man , if can get a low mileage LS engine and Transmission imagine how much more capable your truck could become!! I can’t wait to put one in my 2005 suburban z71 . But that lil 5.3L runs like a champ and it’s well north over 140,000 and still going. I keep good oil and do regular maintenance and continues to run like a champ!
That is all I want for Xmas! 😀
2001 5.3 suburban has taken me 377k original motor and trans almost all of these issues have happened but it's still the best truck I've ever had
Glad to hear! Thanks for sharing. Do you have the lifter tick?
Yep cold start then it goes away would drive it any where
Just drive it their is no fix unless you put a new short block in it
Are you sure you don't have an exhaust manifold leak?
These engines typically have a slight lifter tick which is normal; however, sometimes an exhaust manifold leak resembles a lifter tick. This is also a common issue on these engines and is often caused by one or more broken exhaust manifold bolts. You can sometimes feel the leaking exhaust pressure pulse but not always. Due to thermal cycling, it's not uncommon for these bolts to break on high mileage engines, especially if over torqued when installed. Unfortunately, removing the broken bolt usually requires removing the cylinder head, especially for the rear bolts. There are special clamps that can be installed in lieu of replacing the broken bolt but I've never used one. Instead, I removed the (driver side) head and removed the broken bolts.
BTW - replacing the engine is ONLY cheaper than replacing lifters (or even rebuilding an engine) if you have a dealer do it.
Thanks for all the great info RJM. I will be sure to check my exhaust manifold bolts. Great point on the engine replacement option.
I have a similar suburban with broken exhaust manifold bolts, and the sound of an exhaust leak is quite a bit different. The one in the video was more metallic, but mine just sounds like a tick.
My 2006 suburban 4x4 has 202,000 the speed sensors acting up and not to bad to fix. And the rear window shows a fault but it closes. Replaced the air compressor and air shocks common problem
Thanks for sharing this info Brian.
Sir, approximately how much did the air compressor and shocks cost you to replace? Did you do the work yourself or mechanic? Thank you
Got it on rock auto for the shock and compressor just look on site
And isn't that hard to do just keep a eye out for corrosion on the wires leading to the compressor
And looked at 1AAUTO for reference
I have an 03 with the service 4 wheel drive warning. Changed the switch and it still comes on. Cleaned the ground wire, still comes on. 4 wheel drive still works fine though.
Thanks for sharing this Tragan. It it works, then it is not a problem! Since the switch did not fix it, the issue is probably with the torque converter control solenoid. So, if it does stop working, I would try replacing that.
@@SuburbanCamping thanks for the tip. I appreciate it!
Wow, that is some ticking.... The DEALERSHIP??? ECK!!!! I rebuilt the engine with a worn cam and replaced the clicker for 1.8K. I rebuilt engine runs about 3.2K. Repairing these Old War Ponies is a LOT Cheaper than buying a current, over-engineered, poor parts, stupid add-ons and to many computers for 50-100K..... Keep on Truckin!!
Very well done! You need to add a link to your website in the description so others can find it. 8-)
Thank you! Will do!
Instead of investing in the rear main seal repair and tune up why not just replace the engine. It would suck to put money into the engine and have that lifter tick come and bite ya. Thank you for sharing your experience with your new to you suburban. It's given me some good pointers for when I go hunting. See ya round.
Good question David and thanks for the comment. I would love to drop an LS engine in it! 😀 I agree there is a point of no return, but I don’t think I am there yet. The tick is always on my mind, but for the amount of money I am putting into it, we are probably talking about a used engine and who’s to say it would not also have the tick? I guess I am just committed to seeing this all the way through and keeping it as original as possible.
Lifter tic, 0-20 W: Mobile one synthetic, turn up radio, 400k later, I'll let you know if it blows up. Good truck.
A formula for success!
Check you pcv valve before changing you main seal ....its a 5 minute just and the part is about 20 $ .it well fix your leak .or maybe you can just take it out and clean it maybe it will fix
Thanks for the comment and idea! The rear main seal job has been completed and an update video will be posted shortly.
For the valve tic solution just replace the PCV valve n inspect n fix all the oil leaks around the engine n pay attention to the sensor switch leakage, after all fixing you must adjust the oil pump to increase pressure by adjusting relief valve spring one turn to+
After all use a sentitic oil n replace with a new filter n use select additives (UK made)
I appreciate this info!
Have a 2006 with 102,000 miles, runs great but I had a problem with a fishing line wrapping around my drive shaft, two rear ends an $3,200.oo later, runs real good but I have to listen to the rear end howling. Surburban is in great shape inside and out so I guess I will have to turn up the radio.
Thanks for sharing this Gary. That is some expensive fishing line! The radio solves a lot of problems!
Great video
Thanks!
i just bought a 2002 chevy suburban Lt 1500 one week ago. price was good also. 125000 miles
Congrats! Nice and low mileage.
I have a 2001 Yukon Xl I bought new and currently has about 140k on it. Still runs smooth. Had to replace a power steering pump, and recently I had my A/C go out. There was a GMC bulletin saying the issue may be slugging which is a build up of sludge in the system and it causes the tensioner pulley to bounce around like crazy and ultimately banging against the stop and then snapping the belt. I've contacted a couple of GMC garages about this and they have no clue about what I am talking about. I am now weighing out whether to do the repairs myself per the recommended repairs stated on the bulletin because it would be about $1200.00 plus tax. But it'll cost me a lot to have the unit pumped out and then recharged by a garage.
Other issue is my autoride stopped working so I gotta try and figure that out. Other issue is my brake light and ABS light once in a while pops on. Not sure if it is a bad ground or something. And lastly my driver side mirror has the defrost and the auto dimming features also and it developed the fog issue and I cannot locate a direct replacement for it anywhere. Found like one used possibilty online and it was priced high and no guarantee. I can't even just replace it with an aftermarket mirror minus the auto dim feature because the mounting arrangement of the tabs on the mirrors I have found online are very slightly different but enough that it won't work on my mirror's base.
All in all I still love my Yukon.
Thanks for posting this info Bubba!
Got all my speakers at Walmart and sub on Amazon. Switched to single Din cd player but need new harnesses which I had to combine with purchasing 2 from Walmart and Amazon. I have yet to figure out the oil pressure guage even after changing the sensor. Also had cam sensor before my 2001 stopped running
Thanks for the comment and all the great info Frank!
My 2002 model just had the fuel pump died at 210,000 miles. I should have got it fixed immediately when my car started taking two tries to start, because it only lasted two weeks after that. I also have some kind of oil leak I need to get fixed. Somehow it keeps running low on oil every 2 months, but there's no drips🧐
Yes, we all tend to hope the issue fixes itself, but it never does! Must be burning some oil - how low does it get and how many miles in 2 months?
@@SuburbanCamping It took 2 months to go from full to low and trigger the dash light.
02 Tahoe here same color as yours. I had my rear main seal done by an independent mechanic for $700. Also you missed intake gasket and knock sensors are very common, I did mine at 125k. The task looks over whelming, but it’s not that difficult.
Totally agree. I stuck to the repairs I have experienced.
I bought a 2003 loaded 4x4 brand new and sold it 10 years later with 90,000 miles. 5.3 engine . I couldnt take it anymore.
My vehicle never missed servicing and was garage kept .
Common problems:
Serpentine belt pulley freezes up ✔
Instrument cluster failure ✔
Coil failure ✔
Frame rusts out ✔
Brake lines rust out ✔
ABS failure ✔
Steering colum rattle ✔
Rear seat release snapped ✔
Check engine light short ✔
Thanks for sharing this info Cha.
I have a 2002 5.3 vortec with 300k, Engine tick is fixed by replacing the rubber O ring which is located where the oil pick up tube connects to the oil pump. The tick is caused by air getting into the oil pump. I'm not a mechanic by any means and I fixed it myself. Tick stopped immediately after replacing.
Thank you Erik! Seems to be the consensus among the viewers commenting!
great info!!! thanks!
You are welcome David. Thanks for commenting!
Lifter tick- ive owned 2, and fixed both. Replace the oil pump pickup tube o-ring
Thanks Tom! Wish I had done that when the rear main seal and oil pan gasket were replaced!
I had the same thing. I replaced one quart of oil with one quart of trans fluid and after two weeks it got better and in two oil changes it was gone
Thanks for sharing this Tim. I will give it a try!
My 2005 Tahoe Z71 does the same tick.. my H wants to replace engine I told him to just do it until it gives out. It has 260+k miles still running with the ticking sound 😅
Thanks for sharing this!