Some additional recommendations for your process: 1.When you first re install the hub and nut on the spindle, you should "seat" the bearings by torquing the nut down tight, (Most manufacturers recommend about 50ftlbs. )... THEN back the nut off and pin in it the right position so the hub spins freely with no excessive end play. 2. When checking your final adjustment for no binds, and minimum end play, best to check it with the wheel on the hub, so you can really feel what's going on. Yes a bit of a pain when you have disk brakes, because after checking your adjustment, will have to take the wheel off again to reinstall your caliper, but really the best way to assure your adjustment is correct. Too tight, the bearings will run hot. Too loose the bearing assembly is not tracking fully on the race, and may slip around on the spindle and score it up. 3. Regarding filling the "Bearing Buddies" with grease..., you are not suppose to fill them all the way up. Only enough so you can rock that pressure plate,,maybe about half way out to the retainer ring. Need to allow room for expansion when they get warm. Bearing Buddies do not have a particularly reliable pressure relief. It is common for overfilled bearing buddies to blow out the rear hub seals. And yes, as others have already pointed out, next time, just knock off the Bearing Buddy, rather than take it apart. It's just a fancy hub cap. Hope these tips help.
Painful to watch - just remove the bearing buddy to access the pin and nut etc… Makes access to internals so much easier.. Smashing the bearing to get the seal out 😢 Damages the cage of the bearing - never do it..
Thank you so much Ed! All your videos are THE best quality and information and I am glad your enjoying your retirement. My dad only lived a whopping 1.5 years after he retired from Pontiac Motors Div. so I am always glad to hear of people having a good life after working for so long. Thanks again!
Great video I learned a lot! Just out of curiosity, why do you not remove the casing of the bearing buddy so that you have better access to re-install the nut and cotter pin?
Spin the hub while tapping the bearing buddy on the side. It backs right back out. Only use bearing buddy seal. They have extra spring and backing for the hub. A regular seal that comes with bearings kit will just blow out. Get a $10 seal puller and $ 30 seal/ race driver kit. You have taken a beating but the bearing packing wasn’t bad. This guy just doesn’t know bearing buddies
Why didn’t you remove the outage protective sleeve. Would have made it a lot easier to put the cotter pin back in. And you need to seat the bearings by screwing the castle nut by about 30#, then back out and rescrewing finger tight.
I thought the spindle sleeve (rear grease seal rides on this) has to be replaced as well, and this sleeve has to be red locktited to the spindle ( full curing takes 24 hours). Its too bad Shorelander does not have their own videos on how to do this. The "bearing buddy" should have been taken off and the bearings torqued, then set to 0 lash.
I went to Princess Auto (Canada) and bought a ball end 3/8" hex drive bit for the screws holding the caliper. Still had to do the final tightening with an allen key but got them threaded in much faster.
i have a tandem Shore lander boat trailer and i carrier a extra set of wheel bearing and spin dell and grease and tools to change it on the road also i check my axles for line met and grease
Lots of disinformation. Don't disassemble Bearing Buddy - Remove entire assembly. If reusing bearings, no nut socket OK. If new bearings, seat bearings by tightening while spinning rotor, back off for minimal end play. Bearing Buddies are not for greasing bearings, they are for pressurizing the hub to keep water out. Don't think you are maintaining bearings by adding grease.
the steps installing the cotter key and nut could be made easier buy removing the bearing buddy. This would give easier access. Just a thought.
Some additional recommendations for your process:
1.When you first re install the hub and nut on the spindle, you should "seat" the bearings by torquing the nut down tight, (Most manufacturers recommend about 50ftlbs. )... THEN back the nut off and pin in it the right position so the hub spins freely with no excessive end play.
2. When checking your final adjustment for no binds, and minimum end play, best to check it with the wheel on the hub, so you can really feel what's going on. Yes a bit of a pain when you have disk brakes, because after checking your adjustment, will have to take the wheel off again to reinstall your caliper, but really the best way to assure your adjustment is correct. Too tight, the bearings will run hot. Too loose the bearing assembly is not tracking fully on the race, and may slip around on the spindle and score it up.
3. Regarding filling the "Bearing Buddies" with grease..., you are not suppose to fill them all the way up. Only enough so you can rock that pressure plate,,maybe about half way out to the retainer ring. Need to allow room for expansion when they get warm. Bearing Buddies do not have a particularly reliable pressure relief. It is common for overfilled bearing buddies to blow out the rear hub seals. And yes, as others have already pointed out, next time, just knock off the Bearing Buddy, rather than take it apart. It's just a fancy hub cap.
Hope these tips help.
Exactly remove that bearing buddy. Way easier to do the job.
Painful to watch - just remove the bearing buddy to access the pin and nut etc…
Makes access to internals so much easier..
Smashing the bearing to get the seal out 😢
Damages the cage of the bearing - never do it..
Thank you so much Ed! All your videos are THE best quality and information and I am glad your enjoying your retirement. My dad only lived a whopping 1.5 years after he retired from Pontiac Motors Div. so I am always glad to hear of people having a good life after working for so long. Thanks again!
thoms_here
Which plant was he at?
Man, that was a lot of extra work by not taking off the Bearing Buddy. SMH.
Great video I learned a lot! Just out of curiosity, why do you not remove the casing of the bearing buddy so that you have better access to re-install the nut and cotter pin?
Good video. Common sense approach to DIY. Thanks for posting.
Spin the hub while tapping the bearing buddy on the side. It backs right back out. Only use bearing buddy seal. They have extra spring and backing for the hub. A regular seal that comes with bearings kit will just blow out. Get a $10 seal puller and $ 30 seal/ race driver kit. You have taken a beating but the bearing packing wasn’t bad. This guy just doesn’t know bearing buddies
Lmfao wtf did I just watch? That’s the absolute worst way to do that job
Why didn’t you remove the outage protective sleeve. Would have made it a lot easier to put the cotter pin back in. And you need to seat the bearings by screwing the castle nut by about 30#, then back out and rescrewing finger tight.
thank you
Never seen anybody pull a bearing buddy apart, just a waste of time. Just knock it off with a hammer.
Great video. very easy to follow. Thank you. Much appreciated!!!
I never saw somebody working on a trailer hub with so little knowledge.
I thought the spindle sleeve (rear grease seal rides on this) has to be replaced as well, and this sleeve has to be red locktited to the spindle ( full curing takes 24 hours). Its too bad Shorelander does not have their own videos on how to do this. The "bearing buddy" should have been taken off and the bearings torqued, then set to 0 lash.
THIS is what I need to know!
@@mot611 Watch video " Shorelandr boat trailer replacing axle spindle wear sleeve" or "trailer trauma wheel bearing basics"
I went to Princess Auto (Canada) and bought a ball end 3/8" hex drive bit for the screws holding the caliper.
Still had to do the final tightening with an allen key but got them threaded in much faster.
Does anyone have links to a different video of bearing replacement with disc brakes /caliper on boat trailers ,any help would be great ..
If you are going to the trouble of pulling it all apart then just install the new bearings to be safe.
That realy helped step by step. 😮
I would suggest that you find someone who has the knowledge to perform this critical service in a safe, professional manner.
i have a tandem Shore lander boat trailer and i carrier a extra set of wheel bearing and spin dell and grease and tools to change it on the road also i check my axles for line met and grease
being the parts are cheep i thing once you have the wheel of replace all bearing and races and seals and new grease
Just curious why you wouldn't remove the bearing buddy?
Thanks a lot.
His life story doesn't show how to do the bearings
Ok, why don't you just carry a spare hub kit, just pop in and done. For me not that mechanically inclined. Everything needed comes in kit
is that grease GC rated ?
1. Find someone who knows what they’re doing and 2. Use proper tools...So , here you’re 0 for 2...
The extended hub would drive me nuts
Great videos, will you be adding to the collection?
What the.......
So why are you picking apart the bearing buddy??? SMH. I am new to shorelander, so guess I got my work cut out for me.....lmbo
I kinda wish he would go more into the bad relationship he had with the dealer
Wow.....
Lots of disinformation. Don't disassemble Bearing Buddy - Remove entire assembly. If reusing bearings, no nut socket OK. If new bearings, seat bearings by tightening while spinning rotor, back off for minimal end play. Bearing Buddies are not for greasing bearings, they are for pressurizing the hub to keep water out. Don't think you are maintaining bearings by adding grease.
That is so true, people say "I don't have to do my bearings, I just pump more grease into the bearing buddy" NOT!
🤣😂🤣😂
Wow.