The relevant concept would be trademarking. Design patents do exist but one does not patent words. And there's this funny thing about trademarking of not crossing, uh, trades - so, unless said tea company also makes tools...
*MINI - TIRE IRON ||| SET SCREW SPINNER ||| MINI - GRONK TWIRLER* [ You are a deft teacher, Sir. The sense of subtle and soft humor, its quiet Mirthful Irreverence, helps a lot, too.]
@@Azlehria Another good one I heard is called the "universal torque method". "Pull on the wrench until the thread strips, then back it off half a turn." - (and pretend you didn't notice). lol
@@firesurfer eh, just seems feasible, given alot of us dont even have a lathe or any way to accurately center drill small stock. itd be alot nicer if it had weight like that, but still doable without much money or equipment involved. A hammer, some small tubing, solder and 2 allen blades. Done.
Already made a couple since his last introduction, best tool in the shop. Made a small boss on the end so i can secure them with screws rather than silver solder, i'm a bit of a cheapie with hex keys, so they don't always last as a proper one would.
Nice one Tom. I worked as an engineering technician at Kodak Ltd., in the UK and all the mechanics and toolmakers made these from very small sizes thro to 5/16" (8mm). We just knew them as T keys. Love your channel btw, and admire your skill-set and your attention to detail.
Great video and I really love watching how a craftsman makes him self a tool. I really enjoyed a tool made with a thought as to how it will be maintained.
Thanks for not doing paid promotional videos no matter how much the creator sincerely likes the product I dislike the video yes I am probably a little jealous. Thanks for keeping it real
Nice job. I made something similar for my shop made quick change tool post. It has two Allen keys and a socket. The socket is for the mounting nut at the top of the tool post and the Allens are for the SHCSs that hold the tool bits and the height adjustment. That's everything I need to mount and use the tool post: the holders have their own adjustable lock-down nuts that do not need any tools. I don't weld - yet. So I made if from 3/8" galvanized pipe fittings. A "X" or four way coupling in the center and four male plugs in the arms. I drilled the plugs to fit the Allens and held them with set screws with a bit of copper wire under their tips for a good grip. I filed the third plug down to a 1/2" square to fit the socket. The plugs and the socket are all held in place with JB Weld epoxy so nothing is coming loose. I left the fourth plug without epoxy in case I ever want to install a fourth tool there: I may need to take it off to machine it. It works great and I know it belongs at the lathe and no where else. And all the tools are right there, in one place - no searching. And the rounded contours of the CI pipe fittings fit real nice in my hand.
Since watching this I was thinking I really ought to make a set of these for my VMC with matching pair of Orange vises. But I'm busy and putting it off and today, using normal allen keys managed to bust my knuckles TWICE changing jaws. IT'S TIME!
Good job on a quick upgrade to your tool kit. I use my set of Bondhus screwdriver handle ball drivers that I got in 1977. For a shop built tool the double ended driver is a clever improvement.
2:58 "dedicated wrench that goes with the vice and *stays* with the vice" Hah! And I thought Tom was an experienced machinist! These things are like chuck keys and socks!
I have dedicated tool sets for all my machines, and for all my portable tools, in a rack on the machine with spots for all and _only_ those tools. That way the complete sets in my tool chests never have "holes" in them. I buy single wrenches, cut the unused ends off, and mark each tool with a color flash (I keep a "rainbow" of paint markers handy) to identify which machine it goes with.
@@PeterWMeek Oh I agree with the principal.... it's just that these things have legs! Chuck keys, calipers, safety glasses; you put them down, turn around and they've vanished! Sometimes I'm standing there whinging out loud "How is it even possible to lose it, it's in bright 'safety' orange!?”
Sensai, thank you for sharing your infinite wisdom with your most humble and unworthy students. We are in constant awe of your most powerful intellect.
I made something similar years back except I used 1/4" rod for the handles and drilled/tapped soft steel ball bearings for end knobs, which added more inertia to keep it spinning longer once you got it going.
On a similar silver brazed item, I cut a couple small internal grooves to add extra bite for silver. Base was 303, think that was my problem needing the grooves. I was told not to use 303 afterwards, but had a box of parts out of 303. not waiting was a problem for me till I learned. lol
AWESOME tool! I too made a tool I thought nothing of it initially and I find many uses for it as well - a simple 1/2" long, 3/8" wide hex brass piece I bored and tapped M6 on one side and M8 on the other. The tapped areas meet in the middle. Simple, right? But it's one of my favorite tools now because I have so many applications for it - from screwing a buffing wheel (lathe ways properly protected, of course), using it as a resin/wood mount for some fun key chain turning, screw mount (if I need to trim screws, or polish/trim washers), Etc.. and yet - it's so simple. Same principle applies here - this is an awesome tool because it's so useful! Ever thought of adding more "units" to the other 90deg arms? But then, of course, it wouldn't spin so freely... :)
It will also make the solder drip out and then require an extra step to remove it. Once the flux goes from paste to boiling liquid the air seal breaks.
Sure would be nice if manufacturers of things like that vise would consider using a single size fastener for everything so that a guy doesn't need 18 tools to change the jaw.
I made some keys for panic bars like this. Turned a brass disk, then pressed in the allen key. I calculated the area of the hex and drilled a hole with that area. No solder needed.
@@paulcopeland9035 I don't anticipate having to replace the hex shaft. In regular use you probably would not wear one out, but if you did, the tip could be trimmed several times.
7:40 the metal sparks! Have you considered parting the smaller bits by drilling the same diameter hole (Probably held down in the welding fixture) so that you get more contact area/better weld? (It may look better too)
Tom, love the channel and your approach to projects although I was rather surprised you never made a support (as you did with the welding exercise) to ensure the tube and the hex were in complete alignment. This is not a criticism of you sir but rather a critique as I have way too much respect for you and your skills and talents, please keep sharing these!!! Most sincerely. Joe.
Bicycle shops use what's called a try y or something similar. They are three sided and have a 4, 5, and 6 mm hex on them and are very handy. I like to make a few sets in imperial.
Oxtool’s Multi-twirl. Spin(ner)-wrench... Double-Tee Allan. Allan-Iron would be fitting as it so closely resembles a tire-iron, could make any variety and the nomenclature would follow intuitively (drive x driver style)... i would love to help with what to call it but don’t know what you may like I’ll have to think on it. And certainly you’ll find a wealth of suggestions from your viewers, meanwhile I’ll hope some of these may bring inspiration. Thanks for the content & videos!
The Allen Ox T , I have one I made about 15 years to work on phone equip. #2 Phillips and T 10 Tamper-resistant Torx but not as long saved a bunch of time over the years and you don't loose it, good job. Be well and be safe.......
Since you did such a nice job on the chamfer on the ends . Would you not go over the top with a concaved milled end on the mig welded end . I do know it is such a small area and the weld does have good depth to it . Making it look like a role cage type weld. cleaning the oxide made it look very fine. Nice video .
Tom, I've got my bases and handles ready! Now to order blades, solder and flux. Can you please tell us what type of solder you'd recommend. The options are overwhelming
That wrench appeared to flex during the braising, was there any pressure applied at all perpendicular to its length? Did it get hot enough to deform under its own weight?
For some reason I had always assumed that the handle was aluminum and that you had cast it over two L-wrenches with one short arm up each of the cross arms. (Apparently I never noticed that the sockets for the blades were clearly welded to the cross-arm.) The actuality is both a slight let-down and a revelation. I should have known that there isn't enough "meat" at the junction for an aluminum casting to withstand the forces involved for a good gronk. Since I don't TIG weld, I think that if I made up a jig like you show, and provide the clamping and a virgin SS wire brush (and maybe even the filler rod, since I keep a selection of 316L filler in various sizes for my wire fabrication use), maybe I could get the job done fairly cheaply by a local welder. Making such a wrench for each machine that uses two sizes (lathe tool-holders come to mind) seems like a worthy addition to my usual dedicated tool sets that I keep with each machine. For myself, I think I would use plain-tipped blades, since I sympathize with the apprentice who proudly went to the boss saying, "I just fixed all the Allen™ wrenches; the ends were all rounded over." (I think ball-end hex wrenches are an abomination, and only dig out the set I keep hidden at the back of the drawer when I *absolutely* need them. They just won't keep a screw aligned properly and they really suck at holding a screw on the tip to get it started in some inaccessible location.)
Very nice, I need to build one of those for my Rivett, currently keep two Tee handles on my tooling cart. Anywhere you have a Aloris tool post that would be nice as well. One for the holder, one for the insert.
Orange and Kurt are really the cheapest vises you can buy. (Unless you're one of those people who buy the import ones.) They go up to many thousands of dollars.
Nice one Tom, I'd be tempted to make both screw sizes the same but thats just me wanting to constantly simplify things irrespective of the shiny new looks of the virgin vise. BTW I thought solder had an L in it how does that become SODER? Just asking for a friend. Cheers B.
"Speed-Hex"... simple. I appreciate it's current simplicity, but would adding some 1/2" ball bearings as "fly-weights" to the end of the cross be a worthwhile upgrade? (If I had the capacity, I'd test it myself, but I don't, so throwing it out for discussion)
What about Mr. WirzarT or Mr. Wirzar-Tee, something like that? These are on my list for several years since I have seen them in your videos. Now that you have made a dedicated video about them they went up in priority by quite a bit :D Great video Tom!
@@KISSMYACE3203 That's the straightforward part. The hard time is choosing equipment. MIG is easy. The only real functional differences are amperage and duty cycle. TIG, aieee. Miller makes at least four different lines of TIG welders, not counting the multiprocess and generator units, and then there's options like water-coolers, etc. The TIG capabilities I know about that vary between the units, in addition to amperage and duty cycle, are AC welding, DC welding, HF start, pre & post gas flow, and AC balance. I'm certain there's a bunch of important things I don't know about. All of that makes it hard to decide on equipment, and none of it is cheap.
@@PaulSteMarie I'd be more than willing to help you decide depending on your budget/requirements. I've used pretty much all the different Miller's and personally use a Dynasty 200 DX and Syncrowave 250.
@@PaulSteMarie Pretty sure all TIG welders do DC, which is good for steel, stainless, copper, titanium, etc. If you want to weld Aluminium, you'll need AC. HF start is a good idea if you want to be able to weld without having to scratch start your tungsten on the workpiece. Much more convenient. Pre and post flow gas is good for protecting the work for especially sensitive materials like stainless and titanium. AC balance is good for setting up a tradeoff between cleaning action and penetration, only available on an AC TIG welder of course. Main question is do you want to weld aluminium or not, if so, get an AC welder. If you can afford a machine with all the features you mentioned, you won't regret, but if you can't, you'll still have a decent machine that can weld any material.
I've made tee handles and these for years and just pressed my hex key in. No muss, no fuss, and easy to change..never had one slip or spin out even 1/2" and bigger that had cheaters put on them. Just another way to do the same thing
Ox, I have tried this several times using silver solder as you did, but it keeps annealing the hex wrench so that it twists at the connection point. My technique is the same as yours. Any suggestions?
Just out of curiosity, could you have drilled the hole 5 thou. under the point to point distance for a press fit and used loctite to secure the blade in place?
For version 3.0, broach a 1/4" hex hole into one of the handle ends, so you can use interchangeable hex bits as well. Maybe 3.1 can have a little magnet stuck in the bottom of said hex hole too. I suppose the Lipton Do-Key wouldn't actually be such a great name, would it....
G’day Tom, simple but handy tool. Some good camera work there also, how about a video on the cameras, stands, techniques you use to produce a quality video as you do, a bit of a videography tutorial if you would. Cheers Peter
Hi Tom great invention. I submit " spin torque" hex wrench as the official name. And you actually came up with the name unknowingly too at the 1.01 point in the video.
Simple- A Lipton key!
I like that!!!
Not sure he can. There's this tea company that might have every word patented.
The relevant concept would be trademarking. Design patents do exist but one does not patent words. And there's this funny thing about trademarking of not crossing, uh, trades - so, unless said tea company also makes tools...
Yes Attila Asztalos I agree with you
That's a great name for it.
*MINI - TIRE IRON ||| SET SCREW SPINNER ||| MINI - GRONK TWIRLER* [ You are a deft teacher, Sir. The sense of subtle and soft humor, its quiet Mirthful Irreverence, helps a lot, too.]
There's only one thing wrong with this channel, it doesn't post videos often enough... 😊
It is a perfect interval
Enjoy your videos Tom,I’m a hobby machinist and live in the far north Yukon ,helps kill time when I’m not in my shop!👍
I'd LOVE to see that in a service manual as an official 'torque' spec - "Give it a little gronk." Great stuff.
Best torque spec I've ever seen quoted, from an actual manual: "9 Foot Bar, Six Men, Strong Pull."
@@Azlehria Another good one I heard is called the "universal torque method". "Pull on the wrench until the thread strips, then back it off half a turn." - (and pretend you didn't notice). lol
@@Changtent 😂😂😂😂😂😂walk away whistling....
Totaly making a set of these. Thanks!
Right? Really not something you even need a lathe for! Small tubing and a hammer, solder the cross. Itd evem be lighter ;)
@@imagineaworld The weight of the cross bars is what makes it spin easy.
@@firesurfer eh, just seems feasible, given alot of us dont even have a lathe or any way to accurately center drill small stock. itd be alot nicer if it had weight like that, but still doable without much money or equipment involved. A hammer, some small tubing, solder and 2 allen blades. Done.
Already made a couple since his last introduction, best tool in the shop. Made a small boss on the end so i can secure them with screws rather than silver solder, i'm a bit of a cheapie with hex keys, so they don't always last as a proper one would.
@@imagineaworld If you can afford that vice you can afford a small lathe and or a small mill/drillpress
Simple but extremely effective. The way ALL tools should be designed. Love it!
Tommy Wrench or Dub Wrench (Double Wrench). Thank you for all the great videos, and for being one of my Mentors.
Nice one Tom. I worked as an engineering technician at Kodak Ltd., in the UK and all the mechanics and toolmakers made these from very small sizes thro to 5/16" (8mm). We just knew them as T keys. Love your channel btw, and admire your skill-set and your attention to detail.
Great video and I really love watching how a craftsman makes him self a tool. I really enjoyed a tool made with a thought as to how it will be maintained.
Thanks for not doing paid promotional videos no matter how much the creator sincerely likes the product I dislike the video yes I am probably a little jealous. Thanks for keeping it real
Nice job.
I made something similar for my shop made quick change tool post. It has two Allen keys and a socket. The socket is for the mounting nut at the top of the tool post and the Allens are for the SHCSs that hold the tool bits and the height adjustment. That's everything I need to mount and use the tool post: the holders have their own adjustable lock-down nuts that do not need any tools. I don't weld - yet. So I made if from 3/8" galvanized pipe fittings. A "X" or four way coupling in the center and four male plugs in the arms. I drilled the plugs to fit the Allens and held them with set screws with a bit of copper wire under their tips for a good grip. I filed the third plug down to a 1/2" square to fit the socket. The plugs and the socket are all held in place with JB Weld epoxy so nothing is coming loose. I left the fourth plug without epoxy in case I ever want to install a fourth tool there: I may need to take it off to machine it.
It works great and I know it belongs at the lathe and no where else. And all the tools are right there, in one place - no searching. And the rounded contours of the CI pipe fittings fit real nice in my hand.
Thanks Tom...I really value your build videos!
Since watching this I was thinking I really ought to make a set of these for my VMC with matching pair of Orange vises. But I'm busy and putting it off and today, using normal allen keys managed to bust my knuckles TWICE changing jaws. IT'S TIME!
I vote Lipton tool ! Thanks for sharing Tom!
Yes - either Lipton tool or Lipton key would be my vote.
Thanks, I found it very enlightening. The welding fixture is a nice touch, much better than a flat welding table. :-)
Good job on a quick upgrade to your tool kit. I use my set of Bondhus screwdriver handle ball drivers that I got in 1977. For a shop built tool the double ended driver is a clever improvement.
2:58 "dedicated wrench that goes with the vice and *stays* with the vice" Hah! And I thought Tom was an experienced machinist! These things are like chuck keys and socks!
I have dedicated tool sets for all my machines, and for all my portable tools, in a rack on the machine with spots for all and _only_ those tools. That way the complete sets in my tool chests never have "holes" in them. I buy single wrenches, cut the unused ends off, and mark each tool with a color flash (I keep a "rainbow" of paint markers handy) to identify which machine it goes with.
@@PeterWMeek Oh I agree with the principal.... it's just that these things have legs! Chuck keys, calipers, safety glasses; you put them down, turn around and they've vanished! Sometimes I'm standing there whinging out loud "How is it even possible to lose it, it's in bright 'safety' orange!?”
Nice work Tom! enjoyed.
ATB, Robin
Sensai, thank you for sharing your infinite wisdom with your most humble and unworthy students. We are in constant awe of your most powerful intellect.
Lipton Quick Set. I like the tool very much. Thanks for the tutorial.
Lipton Tea (Tee)
Having fun in shop!
Great tool
Watching in Alabama
"Hand over the 5-mil Lipton tea."
I would call it a hex spinner. Looks good sounds good.
Nicely done.
I'd call it a quick key...because you don't have time screw around.
Thank you for sharing!!!
Always good to see You Tom, post more often,please.
I made something similar years back except I used 1/4" rod for the handles and drilled/tapped soft steel ball bearings for end knobs, which added more inertia to keep it spinning longer once you got it going.
Nice job Tom. I did wonder why the vice designer would use two closely sized, but dissimilar, fasteners in that application
On a similar silver brazed item, I cut a couple small internal grooves to add extra bite for silver. Base was 303, think that was my problem needing the grooves.
I was told not to use 303 afterwards, but had a box of parts out of 303. not waiting was a problem for me till I learned. lol
AWESOME tool!
I too made a tool I thought nothing of it initially and I find many uses for it as well - a simple 1/2" long, 3/8" wide hex brass piece I bored and tapped M6 on one side and M8 on the other. The tapped areas meet in the middle. Simple, right? But it's one of my favorite tools now because I have so many applications for it - from screwing a buffing wheel (lathe ways properly protected, of course), using it as a resin/wood mount for some fun key chain turning, screw mount (if I need to trim screws, or polish/trim washers), Etc.. and yet - it's so simple.
Same principle applies here - this is an awesome tool because it's so useful!
Ever thought of adding more "units" to the other 90deg arms? But then, of course, it wouldn't spin so freely... :)
Small cross drilled hole on bottom will stop the pop up during brazing.....love these quick trick videos
It will also make the solder drip out and then require an extra step to remove it. Once the flux goes from paste to boiling liquid the air seal breaks.
Sure would be nice if manufacturers of things like that vise would consider using a single size fastener for everything so that a guy doesn't need 18 tools to change the jaw.
Nice handy tool, you could make the bits interchangable holding them in with grubscrews, although not as strong as soldered.
I made some keys for panic bars like this. Turned a brass disk, then pressed in the allen key.
I calculated the area of the hex and drilled a hole with that area.
No solder needed.
How do you replace the key (easily) if they are a press fit? Heating the solder seems like a simpler solution.
@@paulcopeland9035
I don't anticipate having to replace the hex shaft. In regular use you probably would not wear one out, but if you did, the tip could be trimmed several times.
Will have to watch it later, I skipped ahead to the orange vise website! So thanks for that.
Rookie question here ... around 10:00 where you're TIG welding, what material are the little pieces you put in-between the work piece & the clamps?
Tom
Tipex correction fluid works well as a resist fo silver solder
Great bit of kit I thought you would have made a tricorn tool
7:40 the metal sparks! Have you considered parting the smaller bits by drilling the same diameter hole (Probably held down in the welding fixture) so that you get more contact area/better weld? (It may look better too)
Tom, love the channel and your approach to projects although I was rather surprised you never made a support (as you did with the welding exercise) to ensure the tube and the hex were in complete alignment. This is not a criticism of you sir but rather a critique as I have way too much respect for you and your skills and talents, please keep sharing these!!! Most sincerely. Joe.
Good idea Tom; might have to make one or more.
The graphite trick’s is priceless..
Bicycle shops use what's called a try y or something similar. They are three sided and have a 4, 5, and 6 mm hex on them and are very handy. I like to make a few sets in imperial.
Oxtool’s Multi-twirl. Spin(ner)-wrench... Double-Tee Allan. Allan-Iron would be fitting as it so closely resembles a tire-iron, could make any variety and the nomenclature would follow intuitively (drive x driver style)... i would love to help with what to call it but don’t know what you may like I’ll have to think on it. And certainly you’ll find a wealth of suggestions from your viewers, meanwhile I’ll hope some of these may bring inspiration. Thanks for the content & videos!
The Allen Ox T , I have one I made about 15 years to work on phone equip. #2 Phillips and T 10 Tamper-resistant Torx but not as long saved a bunch of time over the years and you don't loose it, good job. Be well and be safe.......
Since you did such a nice job on the chamfer on the ends . Would you not go over the top with a concaved milled end on the mig welded end . I do know it is such a small area and the weld does have good depth to it . Making it look like a role cage type weld. cleaning the oxide made it look very fine. Nice video .
Nice looking welds...
Tom, I've got my bases and handles ready! Now to order blades, solder and flux. Can you please tell us what type of solder you'd recommend. The options are overwhelming
Nice job Tom!
Steve
Made the same cross-handle but with phillips and torx out of a single 10mm disk on the lathe during an internship... total hackjob but it worked
That wrench appeared to flex during the braising, was there any pressure applied at all perpendicular to its length? Did it get hot enough to deform under its own weight?
Was hoping you were selling these under the oxtoolco website. Great how to though. Thanks.
For some reason I had always assumed that the handle was aluminum and that you had cast it over two L-wrenches with one short arm up each of the cross arms. (Apparently I never noticed that the sockets for the blades were clearly welded to the cross-arm.) The actuality is both a slight let-down and a revelation. I should have known that there isn't enough "meat" at the junction for an aluminum casting to withstand the forces involved for a good gronk.
Since I don't TIG weld, I think that if I made up a jig like you show, and provide the clamping and a virgin SS wire brush (and maybe even the filler rod, since I keep a selection of 316L filler in various sizes for my wire fabrication use), maybe I could get the job done fairly cheaply by a local welder. Making such a wrench for each machine that uses two sizes (lathe tool-holders come to mind) seems like a worthy addition to my usual dedicated tool sets that I keep with each machine.
For myself, I think I would use plain-tipped blades, since I sympathize with the apprentice who proudly went to the boss saying, "I just fixed all the Allen™ wrenches; the ends were all rounded over." (I think ball-end hex wrenches are an abomination, and only dig out the set I keep hidden at the back of the drawer when I *absolutely* need them. They just won't keep a screw aligned properly and they really suck at holding a screw on the tip to get it started in some inaccessible location.)
I vote we call it a Lipton Tee handle.
Pinkies out!
I searched the world for those things. Lol. Thanks Tom.
Tom, what about if the pieces with the allen blades were also knurled? Would make spinning the screws in before "touchdown" a bit more handy.
Excellent tutorial, sir. Thank you!
Making a tool to hold a tool being made for a tool, mounted on a tool, usually to produce more tools...
Very nice, I need to build one of those for my Rivett, currently keep two Tee handles on my tooling cart. Anywhere you have a Aloris tool post that would be nice as well. One for the holder, one for the insert.
Had to look up Orange Vise Company, pretty high $$$ vises, tempted to buy one.
Orange and Kurt are really the cheapest vises you can buy. (Unless you're one of those people who buy the import ones.) They go up to many thousands of dollars.
@@xenonram As do Orange Vises...
Cheapest is $1k for non CNC style.
What other name brands are there? Mainly European and Japanese?
Nice little project.
Excellent job Sir Tom 👌👌
Second...#2 tries harder...Great video as usual! The TL two-way "T" Key wrench
Nice one Tom, I'd be tempted to make both screw sizes the same but thats just me wanting to constantly simplify things irrespective of the shiny new looks of the virgin vise. BTW I thought solder had an L in it how does that become SODER? Just asking for a friend. Cheers B.
When you're welding it doesn't even look like your hand is moving! How are you getting such a lovely weld with almost no movement?
Almost sounds like that tig torch wants half a second more pre-gas. Can't argue with the nice looking results though.
a name for your tools ( Allie 2 X )
very well mounted silver solder 1 time well explained
May I suggest to name it ....Ox T! ;-)
No no... T-OX... 😊
@@R.E.HILL_ A TOX Wrench
very cool , thanks for the video, needed that one ..
That's a beautiful vise.
as always excellent work!
"Speed-Hex"... simple.
I appreciate it's current simplicity, but would adding some 1/2" ball bearings as "fly-weights" to the end of the cross be a worthwhile upgrade? (If I had the capacity, I'd test it myself, but I don't, so throwing it out for discussion)
Use 3/8 bolt, cut off hex and attach to shaft. Put a couple of 3/8 nut on threaded end for you fly-weights
What about Mr. WirzarT or Mr. Wirzar-Tee, something like that?
These are on my list for several years since I have seen them in your videos. Now that you have made a dedicated video about them they went up in priority by quite a bit :D
Great video Tom!
Beautiful welds there. The oxide is actually quite pretty without cleaning.
I wish TIG wasn't so hard to get into.
Practice and patience.
@@KISSMYACE3203 That's the straightforward part. The hard time is choosing equipment. MIG is easy. The only real functional differences are amperage and duty cycle. TIG, aieee. Miller makes at least four different lines of TIG welders, not counting the multiprocess and generator units, and then there's options like water-coolers, etc.
The TIG capabilities I know about that vary between the units, in addition to amperage and duty cycle, are AC welding, DC welding, HF start, pre & post gas flow, and AC balance. I'm certain there's a bunch of important things I don't know about.
All of that makes it hard to decide on equipment, and none of it is cheap.
@@PaulSteMarie I'd be more than willing to help you decide depending on your budget/requirements. I've used pretty much all the different Miller's and personally use a Dynasty 200 DX and Syncrowave 250.
I also use a Lincoln Precision TIG at my day job.
@@PaulSteMarie Pretty sure all TIG welders do DC, which is good for steel, stainless, copper, titanium, etc. If you want to weld Aluminium, you'll need AC.
HF start is a good idea if you want to be able to weld without having to scratch start your tungsten on the workpiece. Much more convenient. Pre and post flow gas is good for protecting the work for especially sensitive materials like stainless and titanium. AC balance is good for setting up a tradeoff between cleaning action and penetration, only available on an AC TIG welder of course.
Main question is do you want to weld aluminium or not, if so, get an AC welder. If you can afford a machine with all the features you mentioned, you won't regret, but if you can't, you'll still have a decent machine that can weld any material.
Thats a great Vice OX
I've made tee handles and these for years and just pressed my hex key in. No muss, no fuss, and easy to change..never had one slip or spin out even 1/2" and bigger that had cheaters put on them. Just another way to do the same thing
Ox, I have tried this several times using silver solder as you did, but it keeps annealing the hex wrench so that it twists at the connection point. My technique is the same as yours. Any suggestions?
That's an Allen-oX Cross handle ball end gronk-type speed-torque wrench for making things Gutten-tite!
Just out of curiosity, could you have drilled the hole 5 thou. under the point to point distance for a press fit and used loctite to secure the blade in place?
How would you change the key? He mentioned he had 2 or 3 replacements on the original. Why complicate the issue?
I'd call it a Lipton key.
If you drilled a hole in the alignment jig, you could stand the Cross handle vertically when silver soldering and not need a vice.
Out of curiosity, why are you leaving the hex shanks so long? Is there an advantage I don't know about?
That sure is a quiet torch.
Speed key sounds good.
Al.
Alan Pearce yes. Speed key is a great name. 👍
Beautiful video work there, Tom! New gear?
For version 3.0, broach a 1/4" hex hole into one of the handle ends, so you can use interchangeable hex bits as well. Maybe 3.1 can have a little magnet stuck in the bottom of said hex hole too.
I suppose the Lipton Do-Key wouldn't actually be such a great name, would it....
The Lipton built T handle specific purpose combo key !
And the most relevant question of all - where can I get the "blades" in the US? I'm looking for various sizes in ball and straight varieties.
McMaster-Carr calls them ball-end driver shafts.
Crucifix key. ? Good anti vampire tool and if silver solder, werewolves too!
Fix key for short, i like it!
Waaaaait, wait, wait a second.... 6:13... Turret or fastest damn bit change in history??
or is it video editing ?
I kept looking for a cut, but can't see one. It's pretty seamless.
Second Jacobs chuck with drill bit in it..
Stefan Asmussen - yeah, that’s very possible.
Stefan Asmussen - nah, I take it back. Still too quick. Only possibilities are a seamless cut in edit, or a turret on his lathe.
Nice job. Need a set.
DOUBLE-WAMMY WRENCH !!
Where does one find just the ball-hex portion without a bend or a handle already attached?
bondhus.com/pages/ball-end-blades
I was really hoping you were gonna mill a radius where the ends weld to the main cross piece.... I’m not sure why but I did.
Me too.
What? Not hand filing? To paraphrase the delightful Emma, "Always hand file."
,,, blacksmith it, heat then compress the little rods, to the big one, then weld .
G’day Tom, simple but handy tool.
Some good camera work there also, how about a video on the cameras, stands, techniques you use to produce a quality video as you do, a bit of a videography tutorial if you would. Cheers
Peter
👍 thanks
I'll call it the Lipton double twist combo T 2.0🤔😁
The double ended ball bag
Tom, nice video! John Bare has a nice name for it :)
tks for sharing, Master.
Why not called it an oXo? Round on both ends, crossed in the middle?
Hi Tom great invention. I submit " spin torque" hex wrench as the official name. And you actually came up with the name unknowingly too at the 1.01 point in the video.