My grandpa used to put grooves on his like this one, he told me that its a way to distribute oil on the shaft of the arbor for easy way to take it apart. He's right here watching it with me at 101 and still tinkers in his shop every day. Amazing man he is. Loves his drill presses, lathes & a his tools for working on airplanes.
@@cwmaxfield2000 Our machinists where I work as a welder actually install bushings with a helical groove cut into them from the factory. There are also many small through holes that go through the grooves that connect to the grease port on the suspension of the bucket.
The dental tool is called an "Akers Knife". Used to clean the imperfections from plaster casts of the mouth. I make orthodontic appliances. Just found your channel and really enjoy it.
I got a BB16 ROHM drill chuck at a garage sale with a bunch of drill bits for $20 and I knew all the drill bits were USA made and I could sharpen them and now I'm going to take it apart and rebuild this chuck as well thanks to this video so one of the best buys ever for me. Thank you for the knowledge.
Pro tip: put some inert objects like glass jars filled with sand in the container to take up all the wasted volume and you need a lot less rust remover.
Use a Ziploc bag, drop the item in the bag and fill just to cover, purge air and seal. The bag will conform to the part and require much less liquid to cover.
@@lunchboxproductions1183 would have to check whats in the rust remover considering how corrosive it is, if it eats through the bag you are in a world of fun, just adding glass beads/marbles to the heavy duty plastic tub is safer
The way you turned over the tub to dump some minuet particles out before placing the rusted chuck in was priceless. And I think I would have hit it with a soft solid brass wire brush if for no other reason than to keep the rust remover as pristine as possible.
Tom, a pile of steaming chips and no sign of chuck slip, i'd call that job done. I love your methodical approach to your work, in complete contrast to John Mills but equally enjoyable. As John says ''I am mechanic pissing about in my workshop'. Nevertheless, I have total respect for the man. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Looks like most of my tooling when I get it. I purchased several hundred pounds of reamers, drill bits, taps, and end mills that had been out in the weather for 2 years. Almost all of it was restorable. Tom, keep up with the great content. Thank you
Pressing it back together, you asked 'how far do you go?'. You can adjust the mesh of the chuck key with the pinion depending on how far you go. If you have a chuck with a tight key, push the sleeve on a little further. Similarly, if the key is loose, push the sleeve off a little.
Not boring at all Tom, in fact very interesting to see the inner workings of a chuck and how to dis-assemble and re-assemble. Great attention to detail Tom and always a pleasure to watch and learn from/with you.
I turned on the old youtube to find a review on a 10kw duel fuel generator and 2 hours later im watching an great video on rehabbing an old chuck. Nice work.
The pitted shank on the Morris taper is no dif. than a scraped surface. You have the ground surface, and a random lower surface that will never make contact with the internal surface of the arbor.
Yeah, so long you have something like 60% engagement and nothing disrupting it (raised surfaces, burrs and the like) you're perfectly fine. I've made good deals on tools that had potchmarks like those and worse, no issue using them. Got a similar chuck, has a massive divot taken out by rust on one side, got it for nothing, added to another buy on a whim.
Hi Tom, I loved the video. Amazingly calming to watch. Nice to see stuff re-worked and put back into service. I do agree though, if this was your number 1 Jacobs, a kit would be in order. Maybe. Looks like it works pretty well! I'm a T and D maker up here in Canada and our busy job shop is pretty messy with a few of these just lying about. we should get the apprentices going on these i think, lol... Great job and i LOVE the evil clown, good stuff. Cheers.
Great restoration Tom, always awesome to breathe life back into the dead and kick start them again, turned out great. Loved some of the suggestions below for the use of bags, glass marbles etc to save on the fluid, sensible viewers watching your channel, great tp see
I do believe that your "Favorite little scraper" is not for dental work, but rather for ceramic work. we used those all the time for carving and such in high school! Look up "clay sculpting tools" It wont take long to fulfill your wildest scraping dreams.
Ford actually does this fracture technique with the rods on their modular engines. They machine the whole rod and cap all in one piece then they fracture it on the separating line so they become a matched pair. I was told by an engineer that this makes them stronger and obviously the machined surfaces are pretty much guaranteed to stay true to their original planes. Pretty cool technique.
Really beautiful job! I repair computers now but got started working as a machinist apprentice in a little job shop and your restoration brought back a lot of great memories Thanks
great idea, I use Fedox Fertan or something, works well but looks like it leaves a very different finish to the WD40. I see Evaporust on you tube a lot but it doesnt seem a common thing in the UK
This "Bearing Fracturing" method is used to make 2 piece, 2 bolt connecting rods with NEEDLE BEARING big ends [crankpin end] for small 2-Stroke powerplants with ONE PIECE crankshafts. A very ingenious American way to make needle bearing crankshafts without a multipiece pressed together assembly. This method was used on an all Yellow American Chainsaw years ago, whose manufacturer I don't recall. Mac or Mc Cullah or similar name Although I have seen this method used on a German Experimental lightweight air cooled Diesel powerplant's auxiliary starting engine [Pony motor], that was designed in the late 1920's. Nevertheless a very ingenious design whatever Country came up with this novel idea. Great Video as always, Tom. Thank You.
I’m fixin to recover a neglected something something “33” Jacobs and this video inspired me. Second time through and definitely filled with GEMS of useful knowledge!
Very Impressive, kind of make you think of all those rusty tools I passed by at boot sales. Will be more attentive in future.. Great restoration and thank you for putting it up there.
Amazing. Credit to the makers for build quality and materials. Great video. I thought that joke with the shrunken chuck was inspired by ToT. I looked at myself in the mirror after watching this and reminded myself that all the internal workings are okay but I could do with some rust removal. You could have run a poll before hand on whether this is serviceable.
It's great to give new life to discarded tools. I went to a car boot sale this morning and picked up 2 pairs of rusty Bernard pliers and a 0-1" micrometer that is seized solid! They are now all enjoying a nice soak in Evaporust, I find it usually works wonders.
Love turning "rusted junk" into usable tools - on the cheap, too. Another great way to remove the rust is with Electrolysis... a battery charger, some sacrificial ferrous material (old brake rotors, re-bar, etc.), water and Arm & Hammer washing soda.. does a great job.
I got one of these off e-bay a while back that looked absolutely beautiful, with a nice Kennametal 30 taper shank for a good price. Only thing was, the sucker had run out in excess of 13 thou, I got the seller to spring for a chuck kit and now its down to around 3. I think some one (Mr. Bozo) damaged this chuck when it was new, and then never used it because it run out so much. Mr. Bozo was at it again for not checking the run out on this one as well.
@@MrJohnnaz Hmmmm, not only no check on run-out which "could have been the reasoning behind the grind marks on the chuck head taper to bring it in), but lubing IMHO was half done at best. Every part surface mating against another surface should have had grease on (and the bearings should have been "packed full" of grease as well) them prior to and during re-assembly. I noticed some deflection after the drill had full engagement coming all the way out and deflecting going back in. Could be a misaligned tail stock, but it wasn't on center, that's for sure. All and all, it was a successful rebuilt for hack-n-stacking or roughing. Rule of thumb, metal tools like grease or oil for some strange reason.... ;)
Another success in the can, have missed your videos Mr.Lipton, hoping for more to come. have now watched every video you have published on you-tube.In addition to Abom79 and Mr.Pete222,Mr. Fenner,Mr. Rucker, Mr. Richards and have garnered many inspiring tidbits&tadbites of knowledge with a heaping dose of humor would that I'd had this when I was school aged but Retirement has given me All of your excellent companionship
Great job Tom. Man I wish I'd seen a drill chuck like that for $2. I had a lovely old chuck that I wanted to restore I gave it to a friend so he could pop the sleeve off. With his press. He totally ended up ruining it. I was furious. As it was a quality swedish made chuck. Went straight in the bin. Gutted.
Hurricane took on my little home shop years ago, finely built a new one most of the machines were to heavy to blow away. Bought a new chuck but will work on the old one now.
Oh hell yes! I like restoring things. I've also been pretty good at fixing things are considered to be unfixable, hence my nickname 'wizard;. No I'm not a real wizard, I'm just self taught in many things.
Idk if any one answered you on the dental scraper but it's called a Discoid/Cleoid. You can buy them in sets with all different ends and angles from any medical tool manufacturer. It's for the toolbox top drawer micro tools section. I use my set more than you can imagine. I love the tool breakdown videos. I do the exact same thing. Love knowing how things work and are put together. AvE recommended you and I've been watching ever since. Keep it up. Even if it is just a drill chuck, it's worth watcging.
Rust is a deceiver, hiding the good (or bad) that is there. You just don't know what you have until you take the time to clean it off. Coastal areas, especially. 1/1000 depth rusted can expand an incredible amount and make the object look like it was absolutely ruined.
Aloha Tom thanks for posting this. Here on Maui if something stays out for a week it needs restoration. ;) the sea air if rich with salt in fact it differentially rusts steel inside from the top to the bottom
You have some species of periosteal elevator there. I'm not familiar with the spade shaped end but I have a few used ones from work that I haven't found a use for which are the same style as the curved end. I can check a catalog if you want to know the names. PM me if you are interested and I can send you a few.
I'm pretty sure it is a dental wax spatula/carver. It doesn't look like it was meant to be sterilized with that handle. Try Keystone 876 Vehe Wax Carver
Very good point, if the handle is organic. The business ends though are very familiar in shape but I suspect that there is a convergence in good design, whether wax or bone is involved.
deepholecaver If you still have the dental tools, I would gladly take a couple off your hands! Always looking for special tools, and these definitely fit the bill. Give me a shout and we’ll work something out.
Drill chucks don't really need to be super precise, we just beat the hell out of them on the manual equipment since they are not as tough or as accurate as collets/ solid holders... they also do not do well in cnc mills, and do not hold stuff as tight as a collet.
@@Donkusdelux Cheap stuff is something, but you can get precision drill chucks for CNC. Normal 1-13 mm chuck just costs north from 450 a piece, but the runout is a maximum of 0.02 mm TIR @ 50 mm from the jaws. Great even on manual machines.
@@TheWireEDM I work in a full blown cnc machine shop. No cheap tooling there. you crash those drill chucks once and they are done for. super weak design (bends at the jt taper) :/
@@Donkusdelux That's the reason why we invested in the one piece drill chucks, as there is replacement jaws available if a drill happens to damage it when snapping off (once had this happen on a machine without collision prevention system). Otherwise the crashes just won't happen as everything is simulated before running (tools, tool holdes, jigs, vices, clamps, machine table etc. is all included in the simulation). Excellent design these one piece, HSK taper in the drill chuck body. You can get these with other tapers too, highly recommended. And when you have expensive enough tooling, you do not want to crash it :)
Hello Tom, Thank you for passing along your expertise. I think the dental instrument you have there is a waxing instrument . It could possibly be a periosteal elevator but the pointed end would be fairly destructive way to separate the gum from the bone. In any case a waxing instrument will be 10x less money than a periosteal elevator and you can get them as a set on Amazon . Sincerely harry
you need to soak it in white vinegar for 24 hours and it will look like new again. i use it on all kinds of rusty parts even saw blades . and its real cheap just $ 2.50 a gallon
The technique of breaking the part to make a matched fit was done on large cast iron pulleys before the turn of the century (pre 1900). The method is used in both the plain and ball bearing Jacobs chucks. I've saved old Jacobs chucks that the nose was heavily battered causing the jaws to missalign by machining off a short distance until the jaw seats were straight. Chucks that the arbor is too tight to remove by normal methods can have the body drilled from the jaw side into the arbor space and then a punch used to drive out the arbor. A few Jacobs models have repair kits. I bought a kit for one of my ball bearing chucks and it did not include all the wearing parts. If the bearings are not brinelled the balls can be replaced if standard ones if they are rusted or damaged.
The helical groove was put on the tapered shaft to facilitate removal of air from a blind bore. As you know you can compress air but when pressing is done it will push back out somewhat. I am not aware if the hole is blind or through on the chuck. If through the helix does not matter as it would if blind. Keep up the great work and peace too. Victory First.
Thanks for doing that video btw, I bought a Colchester chipmaster which was meant to be good and then turned out to be broken and missing parts. Your video gave me the strength to rebuild mine. Now I just need a cross slide screw and I am done.
When you're finished with the WD rust remover, put the tub on a mag chuck table energised. It pulls lots of the iron out of suspension. Then decant back into the jug.
Rust tip: decide before starting between oils and rust remover/converter. Oils will block the rust removers which are mostly water born acids. You should have some sort of a solvent step to deal with any existing oils for best results preferably a semi-polar solvent like MEK or acetone so the solvent stuck in the inner parts doesn't just act like oil. Also rust removers tend to leave the metal 100% bare so flash rust is common even while the rust remover(or rinse water if residue matters) finishes evaporating.
Great video. I've switched to 10% vinegar, available in the cleaning section of your grocery store. 5% is household, 7% is for pickling and the 10% is industrial cleaning. I keep a 2 Gal. bucket on the go, with lid, and take the sediment out once in a while. Lasts way longer and seldom do I need a second soak. Let me know what you think. Cheers, Billy in Canada
Those grooves/lines, as you suggested, look like lubrication slots to me to provide just enough so you can remove the shank. Great restoration. I'll be giving that WD-40 rust remover a try!
May not be a "Queen of the Dance", but will sure work well enough to justify spending two Bucks on. Nice resto. Tom - you might think about making some more resto. vid's! :)
The black handled double ended instrument is a dental wax carver used when a dentist or lab tech is making dental castings. I have several in my waxing kit.
Really enjoying your videos. Thank you for doing them. On the dental theme, I use old tooth brushes for cleaning things & they are especially useful for cleaning & oiling or greasing threads. Best wishes.
Well, I for one am glad that you have nothing better to do. This was a blast, and you've totally inspired me to take a stab at some of the old rusty tools that I've found over the years and stuck up on a shelf as I tell my self I'm gonna fix it some day. Great fun. Great video. Well done!!
Glad to see someone make use of something instead of pitching something that is potentially usable into the trash like so many do these days. The world could use more people like you and me.
Tom, I was an O.R. nurse for 32 yrs. Just do a search for "Periosteal elevator" or "Dental Periosteal elevator" That size is roughly a #9. There are several periosteal elevators used with slight variations in shapes and angles.(They are used to scrape away the Periosteum from the bone before cutting and drilling. Great video by the way.
I fix stuff like this all the time. I pay next to nothing at garage sales, but more than original cost on Ebay. There is Evapo Rust and there is washing soda electrolysis. Lately I have been doing 24 Volts overnight. I could do that restoration, but lack Tom's great video making ability. Great photography and storytelling.
I got 5 tailstock chucks that were in that condition when I bought my recent lathe project. Managed to rescue 4 of them. (without the aid of any WD40 product).
Monday evening of what month? Wow! It cleans up better than I do. I always thought Mr.Bozo was just a goof ball that screwed up stuff but yours has a mouth AND an attitude !
Who cares if he got some free grease and rust remover?! All he did was use the products and show results, he's not haranguing us to go out and buy WD40 products.
Adrian Stephens - don't forget the elbow grease. This chuck new is around $500. can't ignore the value of keeping treasures like these out of the landfill.
Does it matter? It's under the factory asking price OR the absurd prices online. I still can't believe some nut hoarder had the gall to list one of these on fleaBay for 550...
I believe the grooves is for the oil to sit in to keep the arbor lubricated and as you said to make it easier to take out later on. I have seen the same concept for bushings so maybe who ever had them put in had the same idea.
If I'm wrong on this I'll say "I'm sorry" but, I'm ok with product placement, etc - It's nice to hear of stuff and how it work - It's also nice to be up front about said placement. Ok I've said it, now - Excellent restoration on that chuck, those are just too expensive to toss in the bin!
Why did Mr. WD-40 touch you in the naughties? I see people comment about this shit all over RUclips, why do people care whether or not if someone gets product. WHO FUCKIN CARES?? Watch for the content or don't! This content is all free for us viewers. You're not getting screwed out of anything!
Definitely do clean your other chucks. I just disassembled and cleaned a few super chucks I have. I found the newer ones have a plastic ball cage and a simple hardened washer instead of the raceway. It is easier to work with, but is a bit less smooth. The oldest one has a number stamped on each jaw/finger so you can't mix them up. The N11 uses 5/32 balls as I found out when I dropped and lost a few. Those things sure do bounce on a smooth concrete floor. Luckily a local hardware stocks bearing balls so I was able to recover from that Bozo mistake quickly.
Great restoration video. You've got a good old chuck there. As of about 7 or 8 years ago...Jacobs moved all their manufacturing to China. So you've got a good American chuck.....needless to say a much better quality tool than anything made overseas. Putting it in a lathe however is not any kind of a test for a drill chuck. You need to put it in a mill and check the run-out. Especially since you removed the arbor which I would never do. (Unless you're only ever gonna use it in a lathe) Nice job tho Brutha! You saved a valuable tool destined for the scrap yard. Well done!
My grandpa used to put grooves on his like this one, he told me that its a way to distribute oil on the shaft of the arbor for easy way to take it apart. He's right here watching it with me at 101 and still tinkers in his shop every day. Amazing man he is. Loves his drill presses, lathes & a his tools for working on airplanes.
We did likewise on bushings with a Dremel tool.
@@cwmaxfield2000 Our machinists where I work as a welder actually install bushings with a helical groove cut into them from the factory. There are also many small through holes that go through the grooves that connect to the grease port on the suspension of the bucket.
Great job on the tear down and rebuild Tom! You proved me wrong. Next up, we’ll send you the Graveyard find 20N.
Yes I am deaf in st.lucia is very good or poor and I am fine with me yes or no
Great job
The dental tool is called an "Akers Knife". Used to clean the imperfections from plaster casts of the mouth. I make orthodontic appliances. Just found your channel and really enjoy it.
I got a BB16 ROHM drill chuck at a garage sale with a bunch of drill bits for $20 and I knew all the drill bits were USA made and I could sharpen them and now I'm going to take it apart and rebuild this chuck as well thanks to this video so one of the best buys ever for me. Thank you for the knowledge.
Pro tip: put some inert objects like glass jars filled with sand in the container to take up all the wasted volume and you need a lot less rust remover.
Glass balls. You can get them cheapo on fleaBay.
Use a Ziploc bag, drop the item in the bag and fill just to cover, purge air and seal. The bag will conform to the part and require much less liquid to cover.
excellent suggestion!
@@lunchboxproductions1183 this is also how people use flammable solvents to clean shit without it being exposed to air
@@lunchboxproductions1183 would have to check whats in the rust remover considering how corrosive it is, if it eats through the bag you are in a world of fun, just adding glass beads/marbles to the heavy duty plastic tub is safer
The way you turned over the tub to dump some minuet particles out before placing the rusted chuck in was priceless. And I think I would have hit it with a soft solid brass wire brush if for no other reason than to keep the rust remover as pristine as possible.
Tom, a pile of steaming chips and no sign of chuck slip, i'd call that job done. I love your methodical approach to your work, in complete contrast to John Mills but equally enjoyable. As John says ''I am mechanic pissing about in my workshop'. Nevertheless, I have total respect for the man. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
John’s GREAT !
Looks like most of my tooling when I get it. I purchased several hundred pounds of reamers, drill bits, taps, and end mills that had been out in the weather for 2 years. Almost all of it was restorable. Tom, keep up with the great content. Thank you
Pressing it back together, you asked 'how far do you go?'. You can adjust the mesh of the chuck key with the pinion depending on how far you go.
If you have a chuck with a tight key, push the sleeve on a little further. Similarly, if the key is loose, push the sleeve off a little.
Spot on. I was watching it go back together and listening to the debate of 'Is that far enough?' all while wondering where the key was for a test fit.
Useful tip thank you
i never put two and two together, awesome tip
I had the same thought. “When is he gonna test the mesh of the chuck key?”
Not boring at all Tom, in fact very interesting to see the inner workings of a chuck and how to dis-assemble and re-assemble. Great attention to detail Tom and always a pleasure to watch and learn from/with you.
Obviously the helix groove is a channel for the rust remover to soak into.
Lol. I was thinking the previous owner had a problem with suction and decided to put some groves in it.
I turned on the old youtube to find a review on a 10kw duel fuel generator and 2 hours later im watching an great video on rehabbing an old chuck. Nice work.
The pitted shank on the Morris taper is no dif. than a scraped surface. You have the ground surface, and a random lower surface that will never make contact with the internal surface of the arbor.
Yeah, so long you have something like 60% engagement and nothing disrupting it (raised surfaces, burrs and the like) you're perfectly fine. I've made good deals on tools that had potchmarks like those and worse, no issue using them. Got a similar chuck, has a massive divot taken out by rust on one side, got it for nothing, added to another buy on a whim.
'Morse' taper.
Nice restore !
It breaks my heart to see a good tool destroyed through neglect.
Bringing it back to usefulness eases the pain some.
Thanks
Hi Tom, I loved the video. Amazingly calming to watch. Nice to see stuff re-worked and put back into service. I do agree though, if this was your number 1 Jacobs, a kit would be in order. Maybe. Looks like it works pretty well!
I'm a T and D maker up here in Canada and our busy job shop is pretty messy with a few of these just lying about. we should get the apprentices going on these i think, lol...
Great job and i LOVE the evil clown, good stuff. Cheers.
Great restoration Tom, always awesome to breathe life back into the dead and kick start them again, turned out great. Loved some of the suggestions below for the use of bags, glass marbles etc to save on the fluid, sensible viewers watching your channel, great tp see
I do believe that your "Favorite little scraper" is not for dental work, but rather for ceramic work.
we used those all the time for carving and such in high school! Look up "clay sculpting tools" It wont take long to fulfill your wildest scraping dreams.
Seconded, pretty sure that's a clay and wax sculpting spatula. Slightly older model with a plastic or bakelite grip.
Very interesting. I’m a retired Caterpillar engine mechanic. In all my years I have never disassembled a Jacobs chuck. Thank you.
Wow!!! See, I love taking tools that look trashed and restore them to working order. Nicely done!
Ford actually does this fracture technique with the rods on their modular engines. They machine the whole rod and cap all in one piece then they fracture it on the separating line so they become a matched pair. I was told by an engineer that this makes them stronger and obviously the machined surfaces are pretty much guaranteed to stay true to their original planes. Pretty cool technique.
How does the WD40 compare price-wise to Evapo Rust? Looks like it works well.
Really beautiful job! I repair computers now but got started working as a machinist apprentice in a little job shop and your restoration brought back a lot of great memories Thanks
I use Evaporust in an ultrasonic parts cleaner. 24 hours is reduced to an hour or less.
I NEED TO TRY THIS. Holy smokes. Thanks for the tip.
I always put parts in the ultrasonic after the evaporust, but I never thought to try that.. Good idea!
Heat?
great idea, I use Fedox Fertan or something, works well but looks like it leaves a very different finish to the WD40. I see Evaporust on you tube a lot but it doesnt seem a common thing in the UK
Every shop needs and ultrasonic cleaner. This is perfect example. I've always wondered why I've never seen someone do it on YT this way.
This "Bearing Fracturing" method is used to make 2 piece, 2 bolt connecting rods with NEEDLE BEARING big ends [crankpin end] for small 2-Stroke powerplants with ONE PIECE crankshafts.
A very ingenious American way to make needle bearing crankshafts without a multipiece pressed together assembly. This method was used on an all Yellow American Chainsaw years ago, whose manufacturer I don't recall. Mac or Mc Cullah or similar name
Although I have seen this method used on a German Experimental lightweight air cooled Diesel powerplant's auxiliary starting engine [Pony motor], that was designed in the late 1920's. Nevertheless a very ingenious design whatever Country came up with this novel idea.
Great Video as always, Tom. Thank You.
This video brought to you by WD-40.
Seriously though, I need to get some of that rust remover. That stuff worked great!
I’m fixin to recover a neglected something something “33” Jacobs and this video inspired me. Second time through and definitely filled with GEMS of useful knowledge!
Very nice! BTW, Whoever Arthur Irving Jacobs was, he was a freakin genius!
his nickname was chuck
@@joejane9977 kaaaBOOM! =)
Very Impressive, kind of make you think of all those rusty tools I passed by at boot sales. Will be more attentive in future.. Great restoration and thank you for putting it up there.
$2.00 bucks for a tool that would have cost around $500.00 brand new, well worth the rebuild. Interesting video.
Amazing. Credit to the makers for build quality and materials. Great video. I thought that joke with the shrunken chuck was inspired by ToT.
I looked at myself in the mirror after watching this and reminded myself that all the internal workings are okay but I could do with some rust removal.
You could have run a poll before hand on whether this is serviceable.
Good work, enjoyasble, entertaining and nice to see you in action on video again. Now about that printing press ... :P
It's great to give new life to discarded tools. I went to a car boot sale this morning and picked up 2 pairs of rusty Bernard pliers and a 0-1" micrometer that is seized solid! They are now all enjoying a nice soak in Evaporust, I find it usually works wonders.
Nice save, well worth the effort to have a backup chuck.
Love turning "rusted junk" into usable tools - on the cheap, too. Another great way to remove the rust is with Electrolysis... a battery charger, some sacrificial ferrous material (old brake rotors, re-bar, etc.), water and Arm & Hammer washing soda.. does a great job.
18N is my favorite chuck. But how does the run out check?
It would be interesting to see a drill rod chucked in it and spin it on a ill or a drill press. That WD40 rust remover product is super.
I got one of these off e-bay a while back that looked absolutely beautiful, with a nice Kennametal 30 taper shank
for a good price. Only thing was, the sucker had run out in excess of 13 thou, I got the seller to spring for a chuck kit and now its down to around 3. I think some one (Mr. Bozo) damaged this chuck when it was new, and then never used it because it run out so much. Mr. Bozo was at it again for not checking the run out on this one as well.
@@MrJohnnaz Hmmmm, not only no check on run-out which "could have been the reasoning behind the grind marks on the chuck head taper to bring it in), but lubing IMHO was half done at best. Every part surface mating against another surface should have had grease on (and the bearings should have been "packed full" of grease as well) them prior to and during re-assembly. I noticed some deflection after the drill had full engagement coming all the way out and deflecting going back in. Could be a misaligned tail stock, but it wasn't on center, that's for sure. All and all, it was a successful rebuilt for hack-n-stacking or roughing. Rule of thumb, metal tools like grease or oil for some strange reason.... ;)
bcbloc02, I must lead a very dull life, I don't have a "favorite chuck"
Prey Mantas ....yes......and because of the pitting the grease should have good old Moly in it as well.
Another success in the can, have missed your videos Mr.Lipton, hoping for more to come. have now watched every video you have published on you-tube.In addition to Abom79 and Mr.Pete222,Mr. Fenner,Mr. Rucker, Mr. Richards and have garnered many inspiring tidbits&tadbites of knowledge with a heaping dose of humor would that I'd had this when I was school aged but Retirement has given me All of your excellent companionship
Great job Tom. Man I wish I'd seen a drill chuck like that for $2. I had a lovely old chuck that I wanted to restore I gave it to a friend so he could pop the sleeve off. With his press. He totally ended up ruining it. I was furious. As it was a quality swedish made chuck. Went straight in the bin. Gutted.
Hurricane took on my little home shop years ago, finely built a new one most of the machines were to heavy to blow away. Bought a new chuck but will work on the old one now.
Oh hell yes! I like restoring things. I've also been pretty good at fixing things are considered to be unfixable, hence my nickname 'wizard;. No I'm not a real wizard, I'm just self taught in many things.
I love watching other people work... nice job. Thanks for the heads up on the WD rust eater.
That dental tool is used for the finer sculpting in making impressions, and anything else...
Idk if any one answered you on the dental scraper but it's called a Discoid/Cleoid. You can buy them in sets with all different ends and angles from any medical tool manufacturer. It's for the toolbox top drawer micro tools section. I use my set more than you can imagine. I love the tool breakdown videos. I do the exact same thing. Love knowing how things work and are put together. AvE recommended you and I've been watching ever since. Keep it up. Even if it is just a drill chuck, it's worth watcging.
Rust is a deceiver, hiding the good (or bad) that is there. You just don't know what you have until you take the time to clean it off. Coastal areas, especially. 1/1000 depth rusted can expand an incredible amount and make the object look like it was absolutely ruined.
Aloha Tom thanks for posting this. Here on Maui if something stays out for a week it needs restoration. ;) the sea air if rich with salt in fact it differentially rusts steel inside from the top to the bottom
You have some species of periosteal elevator there. I'm not familiar with the spade shaped end but I have a few used ones from work that I haven't found a use for which are the same style as the curved end. I can check a catalog if you want to know the names. PM me if you are interested and I can send you a few.
Agreed. Used in orthopaedics as well with many different sizes & styles.
I'm pretty sure it is a dental wax spatula/carver. It doesn't look like it was meant to be sterilized with that handle.
Try Keystone 876 Vehe Wax Carver
Very good point, if the handle is organic. The business ends though are very familiar in shape but I suspect that there is a convergence in good design, whether wax or bone is involved.
At the risk of total, nauseating boredom also Google Mcdonald dissector ;-)
deepholecaver If you still have the dental tools, I would gladly take a couple off your hands! Always looking for special tools, and these definitely fit the bill. Give me a shout and we’ll work something out.
Can you check the chuck for runout and compare it to one of your other chucks?
just wanted to ask the same thing, I would bet it's not that bad
Drill chucks don't really need to be super precise, we just beat the hell out of them on the manual equipment since they are not as tough or as accurate as collets/ solid holders... they also do not do well in cnc mills, and do not hold stuff as tight as a collet.
@@Donkusdelux Cheap stuff is something, but you can get precision drill chucks for CNC. Normal 1-13 mm chuck just costs north from 450 a piece, but the runout is a maximum of 0.02 mm TIR @ 50 mm from the jaws. Great even on manual machines.
@@TheWireEDM I work in a full blown cnc machine shop. No cheap tooling there. you crash those drill chucks once and they are done for. super weak design (bends at the jt taper) :/
@@Donkusdelux That's the reason why we invested in the one piece drill chucks, as there is replacement jaws available if a drill happens to damage it when snapping off (once had this happen on a machine without collision prevention system). Otherwise the crashes just won't happen as everything is simulated before running (tools, tool holdes, jigs, vices, clamps, machine table etc. is all included in the simulation).
Excellent design these one piece, HSK taper in the drill chuck body. You can get these with other tapers too, highly recommended.
And when you have expensive enough tooling, you do not want to crash it :)
Hello Tom,
Thank you for passing along your expertise. I think the dental instrument you have there is a waxing instrument . It could possibly be a periosteal elevator but the pointed end would be fairly destructive way to separate the gum from the bone. In any case a waxing instrument will be 10x less money than a periosteal elevator and you can get them as a set on Amazon . Sincerely harry
you need to soak it in white vinegar for 24 hours and it will look like new again. i use it on all kinds of rusty parts even saw blades . and its real cheap just $ 2.50 a gallon
The technique of breaking the part to make a matched fit was done on large cast iron pulleys before the turn of the century (pre 1900). The method is used in both the plain and ball bearing Jacobs chucks.
I've saved old Jacobs chucks that the nose was heavily battered causing the jaws to missalign by machining off a short distance until the jaw seats were straight. Chucks that the arbor is too tight to remove by normal methods can have the body drilled from the jaw side into the arbor space and then a punch used to drive out the arbor. A few Jacobs models have repair kits. I bought a kit for one of my ball bearing chucks and it did not include all the wearing parts. If the bearings are not brinelled the balls can be replaced if standard ones if they are rusted or damaged.
Well, ya just de-rust it, take it all apart and clean it up, lube it and put it back together. You know the drill
The helical groove was put on the tapered shaft to facilitate removal of air from a blind bore. As you know you can compress air but when pressing is done it will push back out somewhat. I am not aware if the hole is blind or through on the chuck. If through the helix does not matter as it would if blind. Keep up the great work and peace too. Victory First.
Dang, takes me back to working on our fully-rusted-solid Colchester!
Thanks for doing that video btw, I bought a Colchester chipmaster which was meant to be good and then turned out to be broken and missing parts. Your video gave me the strength to rebuild mine. Now I just need a cross slide screw and I am done.
When you're finished with the WD rust remover, put the tub on a mag chuck table energised. It pulls lots of the iron out of suspension. Then decant back into the jug.
I clicked on this because it looked so much like an Ave video.
Its AvE's cutting mat... cluckbait...
@@damonrogers5978 , yes and a smart move.
But there was no chickadee, Skookum, and no "focus you fack" , which actually made it a rather peaceful video. 😂
AvE has given this channel a shoutout more than once.
it has many Abom aspects like the host with the kind and honest personality and pure machining content !
Rust tip: decide before starting between oils and rust remover/converter. Oils will block the rust removers which are mostly water born acids. You should have some sort of a solvent step to deal with any existing oils for best results preferably a semi-polar solvent like MEK or acetone so the solvent stuck in the inner parts doesn't just act like oil. Also rust removers tend to leave the metal 100% bare so flash rust is common even while the rust remover(or rinse water if residue matters) finishes evaporating.
12:40 .. that arbor press is badass!
Great video. I've switched to 10% vinegar, available in the cleaning section of your grocery store. 5% is household, 7% is for pickling and the 10% is industrial cleaning. I keep a 2 Gal. bucket on the go, with lid, and take the sediment out once in a while. Lasts way longer and seldom do I need a second soak. Let me know what you think. Cheers, Billy in Canada
Do I need a life, cos I just loved watching this vid ... haha, im 60 and did an engineering apprenticeship back in the day, cheers.
Those grooves/lines, as you suggested, look like lubrication slots to me to provide just enough so you can remove the shank. Great restoration. I'll be giving that WD-40 rust remover a try!
May not be a "Queen of the Dance", but will sure work well enough to justify spending two Bucks on. Nice resto. Tom - you might think about making some more resto.
vid's! :)
App
Nice to see you again. Even though you may not have a turret lathe, having a number of chucks ready to go is really useful.
My guess is the grooves help the air escape from the blind hole.
Most chucks have a hole through the center. For a bolt. So it's not blind. Correct me if I'm wrong.
universal arbour. another application could be blind.
I popped an arbor arbor off of an old Super Chuck a couple months ago and the taper on the back was a blind hole.
@@MatthewScott At 32:03 one cannot see a hole through the chuck center. I support Awesomenesser's guess.
If these chucks don't have a hole in the center you can safely make one in super chucks.
Well done. I feel inspired and empowered to clean up my own chucks. Thanks sir.
The black handled double ended instrument is a dental wax carver used when a dentist or lab tech is making dental castings. I have several in my waxing kit.
Looks like this one...I think I need one. www.amazon.com/CARVING-DESIGNING-MODELING-SCULPTING-NOVELTOOLS/dp/B011AIAK9G/ref=sr_1_152
I love the way you cleaned the container before you placed the beautiful chuck in it.
Thanks for making this video Tom. I enjoyed it. Nothing wrong with that chuck now. Just a few scars.
Character marks!
Just like surface grinder gouges. 😁
Will Wood shots fired.
Fire at Will! Whoever Will Is? LOL
@@hodgepodgeenginerd1258
@@RyeHillBaptistChurch as long as it's not shot at me off a mag chuck, I'm good.
Really enjoying your videos. Thank you for doing them. On the dental theme, I use old tooth brushes for cleaning things & they are especially useful for cleaning & oiling or greasing threads. Best wishes.
9:42 it’s knows as the oil circulation!
The oil flows through that lines 😊
Well, I for one am glad that you have nothing better to do. This was a blast, and you've totally inspired me to take a stab at some of the old rusty tools that I've found over the years and stuck up on a shelf as I tell my self I'm gonna fix it some day. Great fun. Great video. Well done!!
Pfft. I reckon if the Big Fella had found it for 2 bucks it wouldn't be garden art.
Glad to see someone make use of something instead of pitching something that is potentially usable into the trash like so many do these days. The world could use more people like you and me.
Oh wow. The Famco 3 1/2 R. That's awesome.
Tom, I was an O.R. nurse for 32 yrs. Just do a search for "Periosteal elevator" or "Dental Periosteal elevator" That size is roughly a #9. There are several periosteal elevators used with slight variations in shapes and angles.(They are used to scrape away the Periosteum from the bone before cutting and drilling.
Great video by the way.
Tom is back! We've missed you!
Some times people put a mark in the arbor to try different spindle/arbor/chuck positions until they find one that minimizes runoff. Just a swag :)
G’day Tom, from garden art to a working tool, Super.
Cheers
Peter
I fix stuff like this all the time. I pay next to nothing at garage sales, but more than original cost on Ebay.
There is Evapo Rust and there is washing soda electrolysis. Lately I have been doing 24 Volts overnight.
I could do that restoration, but lack Tom's great video making ability. Great photography and storytelling.
Mr Bozo forgot to say "Proudly sponsored by WD-40"...
I was wondering about that...
@@paulsomero He could have skipped the comedy routine and said everything in 10 minutes.
"And now, a word from our sponsor." Insert commercial here.
I got 5 tailstock chucks that were in that condition when I bought my recent lathe project. Managed to rescue 4 of them. (without the aid of any WD40 product).
Monday evening of what month? Wow! It cleans up better than I do. I always thought Mr.Bozo was just a goof ball that screwed up stuff but yours has a mouth AND an attitude !
The dental instrument looks like a cement mixing tool. Nice restoration. It definitely turned out better than it looked like it would at the start.
It turned out nice. You should have mentioned that this video is sponsored by WD40.
Just because its in the video, doesn't mean they sponsored it!
@@vizionthing WD40 products mysteriously appearing in all the YT'er's videos all of a sudden... conspiracy???? Collusion??? LOL
@xlr82v2 Yes defo something slippery going on there
Sometimes a sponsor is good when you're barely squeaking by...
Who cares if he got some free grease and rust remover?! All he did was use the products and show results, he's not haranguing us to go out and buy WD40 products.
Great job Tom !! I always use the -d-40 rust soak and always get better results than the other leading brand. Thanks for a great watch, Cliff
A $2 find, and $50 worth of rust remover. Is it worth $52?
The rust remover is reusable, just pour it back in the jug until the next time you need it.
Adrian Stephens - don't forget the elbow grease. This chuck new is around $500. can't ignore the value of keeping treasures like these out of the landfill.
So you actually think Tom paid for that WD40 rust remover?
Does it matter? It's under the factory asking price OR the absurd prices online. I still can't believe some nut hoarder had the gall to list one of these on fleaBay for 550...
I believe the grooves is for the oil to sit in to keep the arbor lubricated and as you said to make it easier to take out later on. I have seen the same concept for bushings so maybe who ever had them put in had the same idea.
Garden art is my new favourite insult!
agreed. when you need one that really stings.
That WD works very well. Your disassembly and rebuild were interesting. I could probably do it myself now.
"decant the smooge" haha. I have a drawer full of rusty stuff- i need to try this!
I have never used the Klingspor Sandflex Sanding Blocks. What grit do you generally find yourself using?
Instead of "zombie", why not "Lazarus" ……….back from the dead! Your package is on the way!
Very nice restoration , great to see things saved from scrapping and put back to good use
If I'm wrong on this I'll say "I'm sorry" but, I'm ok with product placement, etc - It's nice to hear of stuff and how it work - It's also nice to be up front about said placement.
Ok I've said it, now - Excellent restoration on that chuck, those are just too expensive to toss in the bin!
Why did Mr. WD-40 touch you in the naughties? I see people comment about this shit all over RUclips, why do people care whether or not if someone gets product. WHO FUCKIN CARES?? Watch for the content or don't! This content is all free for us viewers. You're not getting screwed out of anything!
Thank you very much, I did enjoy this video, as it makes me understand more about a tool that I use, and need.
regards Colin.UK.
I'm at 6:15 and saying to myself "I hope he presses it apart and cleans up the inside parts individually"...
Definitely do clean your other chucks. I just disassembled and cleaned a few super chucks I have. I found the newer ones have a plastic ball cage and a simple hardened washer instead of the raceway. It is easier to work with, but is a bit less smooth. The oldest one has a number stamped on each jaw/finger so you can't mix them up. The N11 uses 5/32 balls as I found out when I dropped and lost a few. Those things sure do bounce on a smooth concrete floor. Luckily a local hardware stocks bearing balls so I was able to recover from that Bozo mistake quickly.
Wax carver is the tool you're looking for.
Correct. It's more of a dental laboratory tool than a dental surgery tool.
Great restoration video. You've got a good old chuck there. As of about 7 or 8 years ago...Jacobs moved all their manufacturing to China. So you've got a good American chuck.....needless to say a much better quality tool than anything made overseas.
Putting it in a lathe however is not any kind of a test for a drill chuck. You need to put it in a mill and check the run-out. Especially since you removed the arbor which I would never do. (Unless you're only ever gonna use it in a lathe)
Nice job tho Brutha! You saved a valuable tool destined for the scrap yard. Well done!
I have had better luck just soaking them in vinegar for multiple days and just letting them sit and they come out almost perfectly clean.
I stopped using vinegar when I realized I was etching the metal with the acid. Makes things rust much quicker.
Most impressive. Back from the dead. Wholeheartedly support the concept ;restore before throwing away.
The most important thing? Is that it still works.