I seem to have my own style of tool grinding, not that its any different than anyone else, but I have my own favorite tools and grinds that I use on the daily basis, most of which I picked up from my dad. I rarely use the positive lead angle approach, mine is usually set to turn to a square shoulder. I thought it might be of help to share with what I learned and how I grind my chip breakers. Im going to add it to my list of videos to make. BTW, I'll be posting up a large lathe work video soon.
Finally A video that shows the results as the cutter is being ground. I found your channel and am now a happy camper due to the way you explain and demonstrate. I especially appreciate you replying to everyone's comments. Keep up the good work.
I really enjoyed watching this video. I wasn't trained as a tool maker but have been machining for 20 years. I am now starting to learn the art of making tools and wish I had been taught this many years ago. We really enjoy your videos here at the shop and thank you for making them and sharing your knowledge.
Ground my first lathe bit after watching several other videos. This one demystified it for me. I followed your very simple instructions in this video and started cutting beautiful smooth steel on the first try on my old Shoptask. Thank you!!!!!
Hi Joe, Thanks for the comment. I find too much talk about the angles and their names are not helpful to beginners until they have ground a couple of bits. Glad you had a good result with your own ground tool. Cheers, Tom
I just found your channel a week or so ago and it is a wealth on useful information. Most videos on toolbit sharpening spend too much time talking about angles and theory. I liked the fact that you created a toolbit and then used it in your lathe. Real life turning not just theory. Looking forward to the flycutter portion. Inserts are great but HSS will always have place in my toolbox. Thanks, Rich
This is a great lesson. Im a newbie and just started grinding bits. So this helped me fill a lot of knowledge gaps that other videos did not. Thanks!!!!
Hi Keith, Its a dual grit bench stone made by Norton. Its similar to McMaster 4506A5. I think it came from MSC or J&L tools. The fine side is something like 320 and the coarse side is a little too rough for most things. Glad to hear you put something you saw to use in the shop. That kind of stuff makes my day. Thanks for the comment. Regards, Tom
Hi Chris, Great points. There is way to much weight is given to specific tool angles and geometries. The bottom line is a large range of configurations work. Take a look in a really old machining handbook at check out some wacky looking forged tools. In the olden days (when you were a lad) a blacksmith was an important guy in the machine shop. Many tools were forged and heat treated right on the shop floor. Regards, Tom
A big THANK YOU for taking the time to share all your years of hard learned experience, you save the average home machinist countless hours of learning the hard way. AGAIN THANK YOU
Now THAT is a tool bit collection! The honing really makes a difference to the surface finish.... Just a few more of these videos and I should be capable of using my own hobby lathe :)
Hi Tom, today I practiced your tool grinding techniques and I am astonished about the result. The cuttingsound was smooth and I meet had so many curls when cutting so now I need to make the chip breaker. I have been facing off a 5 inch diameter disc and it was peanuts. Thanks for the great video. Regards, Ritchie
Hi Jack, You are right. I generally grind my chipbreakers on my Deckel. The small diameter fine diamond wheel is the killer tool. Not everybody has that so I did it the lowest equipment investment method. I'm glad I got the point across. Best, Tom
Hi Flip, I took the chipbreaker all the way to the leading edge. It is very high positive cutting angle. The chip breaker is rather large which is somewhat realistic hand grinding on an average bench grinder. To make really fine chipbreakers you need a fine narrow wheel with a tight crisp dressing. Best, Tom
Nice video. I am new to lathe/milling operations and it good to see the mechanics of tool development and the corresponding impact of speed and feed operation on the finished product. thank you!
Hi Straighthread, The stone on the left side is Aluminum oxide run of the mill bench grinder wheel. Probably 46 grit. The right hand one is Silicon Carbide, also fairly coarse. You don't need super fine wheels for most tool bit work in particular if you hand hone. Fine grit wheels are nice for holding form and sharp corners like you would need for detail work like chipbreakers. Regards, Tom
Hi Chris, Another good point. In fact in this video I moved the leading cutting edge over after I ground the chip breaker. The wheels on my grinder have big corners so I was having a little trouble making a tight little chipbreaker. But I also really wanted to use the bench grinder and the lowest equipment investment tools. Best, Tom
Hi Dan, Excellent questions. The reason I lifted the tool was to get onto the more curved part of the wheel if that makes sense. I was holding the bit at a compound angle to do the top rake of the bit. So I tipped the right hand side of the tool in toward the spindle and down toward the tool rest. Its also easier to feel when you engage with the wheel if you are making full contact with the previous grind. Its water with a little soluble oil. Best, Tom
Hi Tyler, Great question. First I would have ground the chip breaker differently for steel to make it stronger. For the same basic tool in steel I would have run it at 250-300 rpm and the heavier feed rate on the 1.5 (50mm) diameter. Regards, Tom
I know this video has been up for a while and I have subscribed to your site for a while , but I have just come across it and it has filled in SO many missing links in my knowledge. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They are so helpful to home machinists. A very helpful video, thank you
Great video Tom. I enjoyed the fact you showed how minor changes like honing can make amazing changes. I have discovered from using HSS inserts when the finish starts to get rough or erratic a quick pass on a vermiculite stone brings back the original performance. Keep up the great work Thanks Scot
Thanks, I am not sure how to comment on your blog but that is one of the coolest lathes I've ever seen. Between its ergonomic three speed tail-stock and the infinitely variable rpm it is a well featured machine. You would be crazy not to be it home Tom.
Thanks Tom that makes sense with the DRO, I never have used one on a lathe. I should have been more specific in my question, I was wondering about the tool rest on the grinder. Thanks, Bill.
Excellent description on grinding hss toolbits, I particularly like your comment at 13 min about wide range of angles that will work, I also like that you place the toolbit flat on the table and let the radius of the wheel produce the back rake, much easier to regrind when its time,
Hi fgleich, Another viewer suggested the very same idea. I tried it myself and it seems like a way to put in a very small narrow chipbreaker that would work well for light depth of cuts and slow feedrates. Thanks for the comment. Regards, Tom
Tom back watching some of your older videos. Good stuff geat demo, also interesting to see how you have devoliped as a presenter. still a joy. thanks really enjoy hearing your thought process. I always am interested in the why. not just push it up against the wheel. thanks Will
thanks for the simple to follow instructions Tom! i learned the importance of a chipbreaker grind last year turning some 4140 when a nice long stringer caught me and split my knuckle to the bone. this video will definitely help improve my work so thanks
Hi Hal, That's a good way to grind a small feature like a chipbreaker. I'm going to get a couple of finer harder wheels for my small bench grinder and get back in practice. Lawrence suggested a Dremel with a small cutoff wheel which I tried and it works well. Regards, Tom
Hi Steve, They are all interconnected. Surface speed, feed rate and tool geometry. Of all of the factors feed rate has the most effect on chip breaker performance. Best, Tom
Hi Sharg, I showed and insert similar to what you mention in another video. Several viewers requested a video showing honing and preparation in more detail. I also like the diamond hones for touching up tools for the same reason you mention. I wanted to show the lowest level of tooling investment needed to make good cutting tools. Thanks for your comment. Regards, Tom
Hi Tom, Low carbon steel and in particular hot rolled is difficult to get a really nice finish on. My advice is use a nose radius and take a depth of cut radially that is equal to the nose radius or greater as a minimum cut. The hard thing is to take a really light cut and get a super finish on hot rolled steel. Regards, Tom
GAAHHHH THANK YOU FOR EXPLAINING THE RIGHT AND LEFT IDENTIFICATION. IM KINDA NEW TO MACHINING AND JUST BOUGHT MY FIRST LATHE ABOUT A MONTH OR SO AGO AND HAVE BEEN REALLY CONFUSED ON WHY THEY CALL A TOOL THAT FACES LEFT A RIGHTY AND A RIGHT FACING TOOL A LEFTY.
I just ground a HSS tool today, and the finish in 1018 was rough. My feeds are limited on the old Logan. I didn't want to go to a tangential shear tool for finish. I'll go stone the new bit and try it again. Thanks TL!!!!
Thanks for the great tutorial! I use an EZE-LAP diamond stone to hone my high speed cutting bits after grinding. Additionally I polish (lap) them with various other tools to get a nice finish. Most of what I machine on my very small TOS tool makers lathe, is 303 stainless, and precious metals. I never had much need for a chip breaker, and I am going to give this a try the next time I need to grind a new cutting bit.
Hi Zews, I like the diamond laps myself. I deliberately tried to keep the tool bit video as low a tool investment as possible. There are some wonderful diamond products out there at really reasonable prices. As you say everybody should have some diamond tooling in their box. I wonder what the chip breaker for gold and platinum look like. I'd be willing to run some tests for you....... Cheers, Tom
Haven't finished watching this yet, but i thought id say that i normally skip honing stones and just give my tools a lick on the balder buffing wheel before I use them and it does essentially the same thing, leaves a nice finish at least with aluminum. Its something I started doing years back with wood carving chisels and the cutters I used on my old wood lathe and I've just carried the practice over in my shop for metal work. And if you find yourself up in humboldt county sometime, stop by. Be cool to meet you and talk shop one of these days.
Hi Bill, I generally keep my toolpost at 90 degrees to the axes for everything. It is probably a habit from using DRO's on lathes for so long where you might have to retain five or six tool offsets. Moving the post around all the time monkeys with keeping tools calibrated. Regards, Tom
Hi Sharg, I didn't take your comment in a negative way. You seem knowledgeable and experienced about metalworking and it shows. Thanks again for your comment that makes the channel content better. Regards, Tom
Very informative. I feel It's one of those things that can be theorised reasonably easily but perfected via trial and error. I cant wait to try. Oh, and to all the comments about the danger of hands in the chips, obviously he's been doing It for years and still has all his fingers. I'll be damn sure to stay away until I naturally feel attuned to my task just like any trade.
Nice video. I hadn't planned to watch the whole thing, but you kept it interesting with the comparison of various tool geometries as well as feed rates and depth of cut. I liked your demonstration of the chip breaker groove. However, I think that makes the tool suitable only for turning, and you would need the groove on the other cutting edge for facing. I sometimes use diamond files to touch up my tool bits, particularly carbide, and I use a 5x binocular magnifier. Thanks for the tips.
Hi Paul, Thanks for the comment and compliment. Indeed you can face with this tool as well. It will perform better at turning for sure but it will face as well. I have several of the diamond honing files and love them. I just keep cleaning them and they just keep lasting forever. Cheers, Tom
Hey Tom I got my first lathe delivered yesterday a BV20-1L. I've never used a machine lathe before, just a little time on a wood lathe in 8th grade. The last week I've been watching your tool development 1-2 and 3. I got all HSS blanks with a sharp edge from the factory and after the first cut which was a little crappy I took it off, honed it and gave the front leading edge a little radius on the stone and what do you know, much better just like your video, but like you said we can still do better. That's buddy, saved me a lot of trouble from the first 2 minutes on the new machine.
ROCKMOREDESIGN Hi Rock, Glad you liked that one. Congratulations on your new lathe. Its always fun to get a new machine tool. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom I have to bore a perfect 22mm hole in the side of a 30mm 6061 rod. The hole is to be used as a clamp to hold another 22mm tube. I bored a 21mm hole and found out quickly that an adjustable reamer is not designed to enlarge a hole, just smooth it out. My next move is to bore the 21mm hole and use a 22mm end mill mounted in my lathe chuck to enlarge the hole. I made a clamp with taped holes to attach my work piece to the saddle and move it into the drill. Worked perfect to bore the 21mm hole. The question is will it work to bore out the hole to 22mm with the end mill.. I Thanks for the advice, my HSS radius lathe tools work well already, but as you said we can do better. Here is the Facebook page with the 1st rough part. facebook.com/mike.rockmore.3
Hey Tom another great Video, on making a chip breaker how about cutting it with a thin cut off wheel in die grinder, I find it's easier and creates a sharper edge for the chip breaker. The tool bit is held in the vice does not get hot and I have more control with a die grinder. Hal
This is a great video and the first I have seen of yours. You have great camera angles and very good explanations of what you are doing and what you hope to accomplish. I am anxious to watch your other 95 videos and hope they are just as good. Nice work Tom!!!!
Cool video man! Really good idea of showing the differences between the stages of grinding/honing. This is an art form that few and fewer people seem to know these days so thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, I will pass on what I have learned here today I promise, my apprentices will appreciate this, as do I :)
Hi Fadt, Most of the holders I've seen for inserts that have that much relief are flat also. That is horizontal to the machine center line. You could put some angle in the pocket to create some rake but I would not do it. If you get non flat top inserts that already have a positive geometry they may not perform at all. Stick with what the manufacturers are doing as they invest lots of time and money to get their tools to work. Hope that helps. Regards, Tom
Hi Adam, Thanks for the nice comment. I would really like to see you do a toolbit video also. In all the shops I worked in everybody had their own tricks for making good toolbits. I think you could do a great one and show some of the features you like to see in lathe tools. Yeah the Noga holder is working good. My camera is getting oily! Regards, Tom
Homo Sapiens the tool maker. Watching you carefully make these tools from observational skills and long term experience I can't help but think about our Ice Age Ancestors (as modern as we and perhaps more intelligent, their brains were actually larger than ours today) sitting around the fire Flint Knapping a variety of specialized tools from the materials found in their environment, who's very lives and their families depended on their quality.
Hi Titus, If you read about Ishi a California Indian they were able to study at close range. They noted he was very careful and meticulous when knapping and making tools and articles he depended on. I think you are right about their craftsmanship was more of life and death for them. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Ok Tom, I started watching the video this morning when I was getting ready for work, but I had to wait untill my 13 hour work day was finished to finish watching the rest. Good info on the tool grinding and honing, I enjoyed it. I have to say, I was planning on making a similar video myself, and hope you dont mind if I do so some time later. BTW, I noticed that NOGA holder is helping you get more closer to the action!!
Hi Scot, As you said once you have a good tool its pretty easy to maintain it with some light honing or built up edge removal. Thanks for the comment. Best, Tom
Hi Annoy, Not sure what you mean "away" from the edge. I push the tool in the direction that would make it cut. In other words the same direction the material would flow into the edge in question. Does that make sense? I think I might have said something like how you sharpen a knife in the video. I don't think it matters too much which is probably why I didn't blather on about it. Thanks for the comment. Best, Tom
Thanks a lot. I am wondering how much time and materials nice people like you donate in making these videos. I have been learning a lot about machining because of great people like you. Thanks a ton sir!!
Hi Yash, Good questions. I spend around something like 20 hours per week to produce and post the video content I put up. As far as materials it depends on the subject matter. Most of the tools I already have but I do spend some on raw materials and consumables that adds up over a year. Thanks for asking a great question. All the best, Tom
Hi rhost, The chip breaker does go all the way to the edge. Its rather large for fine depth of cuts so that is part of the reason it performed poorly on the light cuts. The feedrate was the variable with the most effect on the chips breaking with the setup I showed. Thanks for the comment. Best, Tom
Hi Tom!...all depends but for just a chip breaker the small cutoff wheel works great much more control in how you want it positioned etc...I do use small blue wheels too...
Hmmm... maybe some electrolytic honing with vapour deposition on the cutting edge... :) I know, I know... I have been busy building stuff and didn't really want to do a video showing half a build. I will try to post an update during the weekend...
Super great info. As a rookie, you took a lot of mystery out of tool bit sharpening. I have rarely honed. Can't believe the difference it makes. Will cutting steal have the same results? I usually cut hot rolled steal and am not often satisfied with the finish. next video maybe a little blackboard theory? great info Tom. tkx, .
oxtoolco I have new respect for that 80 yr old shoe box of hss cutters that used to belong to my great grandfather. It looks like I've inherited his "bread and butter" as you put it. So many different styles and shapes - all hand ground - and he left them all perfectly sharp for me! Picked up a small combo machine over the weekend and started to learn. I was debating whether to use his HSS cutters and learn the nuances of grinding, or to purchase an entry level carbide tool holder. I'm going to use the HSS. think it will make me a better machinist in the long run.
Very good video Tom; from your back catalog. All the tool angles are really confusing when starting out on the lathe. You took the edge of that with this video. Thanks. I noticed that your stone was pretty grimy. I was told that using oil on the stone transports all the metal particles away, and makes it easier to keep a "sharp" stone (or clean if you like).
Hi Arnljot, I clean my stones pretty regularly normally. They pick up metal from stoning off large surfaces. I guess I showed this one in a loaded condition. I typically use the stones dry. There are two points of view on stone sharpening dry or wet. Both have merits depending on the type of stone and the sharpening goal. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Great video When i started turning i never found a good video like yours , the chip breaker maybe could be easy to made with a dremel or any other rotatory tool ,and a small cutting disc.
Hi Battle, Harder grinding wheels work well for chipbreakers. My wheels were too soft for a small one. A dremel would also work well. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Fred, I don't think I honed the top surface after the chipbreaker was put in. The reason is if that surface is honed after it can very easily be damaged since its a fine edge. I lead with the cutting edge as you say but many people go the opposite. I bought the maps at a local voodoo shop. What city were you in again? Looks like I need to stick another couple of pins there. Regards, Tom
Hi Alex, If it works then that's all that matters. Its more important to make good parts than to do everything by the book so to speak. You are probably correct that the cutting edge will not last as long but if the results are controllable and reproducible then who cares. The word on tool angles is there is a broad range of angles and geometries that will cut metal. Don't get hung up on the "book" I would suggest trying your coworkers deal yourself and making your own assessment. Best, Tom
Small lathe, but I am having trouble getting good finishes, mostly I think because of my tools. Also I would like to better understand the difference between roughing and finishing, both in terms of tool geometry and feeds and speeds. Thank you for this.
Hi Scott, First off I can tell from your questions you need to buy the Southbend book "How to Run a Lathe" This book is a must have for anybody that has a lathe, period. They are readily available and cheap. So a couple of quick words on roughing and finishing. Remember these guidelines. Rough ugly. Its to remove material quickly, nothing else. Feedrates from .015 down to .008. Finishing is for size and finish. Sharp honed tools and feedrates from .005 down to .002 per rev or less on certain operations. For a small lathe that is not rigid then lean toward the finishing side of things with sharper lower pressure tools. Hope this helps. All the best, Tom
best made simple video on the subject.thanks. When you grind the chipbreaker, do you grind it all the way to the cutting edge (thus dramatically increasing the rake angle)? or do you leave a tiny flat at the cutting edge to prevent the cutting edge to keep the edge from dulling too fast? it was hard to see if there was a tiny little sharpie line left on the cutting edge.
Hi Lawrence, Thats a great idea! I'm going to try that out right away because I just picked up a nice corded Dremel for ten bucks. Thanks for the great idea. Do you just use the thin cutting discs or the diamond type? Best, Tom
Like the video. Informative. I think you might want to rethink the suggestion of grinding it "uphill" however due to the possibility of the hss becoming a projectile.
Tom that was really good I'm going to have to watch it again to catch all the info. The tool bits I've ground have been with smaller stock (1/4 inch) which makes it hard to see and get the geometry right. I'm going to see if I can get some larger tool bit stock to grind. Honing really seems to make a big difference too I'm going to try that as well. What angle is your tool rest at it looks like 90? Thanks again for the vid!
Looking at the last part of the video, it looks like the reason the chip breaker isn't working is because the chips are never hitting it due to the relief angle on the front side of the blank. If you moved the chip breaker closer to the cutting edge it would work with less DOC.
Watching old Tom videos in 2024 for fun. Youve taught me much, starting with your book when it was new. Thanks, Mr Wizard!
I seem to have my own style of tool grinding, not that its any different than anyone else, but I have my own favorite tools and grinds that I use on the daily basis, most of which I picked up from my dad. I rarely use the positive lead angle approach, mine is usually set to turn to a square shoulder. I thought it might be of help to share with what I learned and how I grind my chip breakers. Im going to add it to my list of videos to make.
BTW, I'll be posting up a large lathe work video soon.
Finally A video that shows the results as the cutter is being ground. I found your channel and am now a happy camper due to the way you explain and demonstrate. I especially appreciate you replying to everyone's comments. Keep up the good work.
Hi Andrew,
Glad you like the toolbit series. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thank you so much for giving back to the field and to the hobby. As a "greenhorn", I certainly appreciate your time, effort and experience!!
I really enjoyed watching this video. I wasn't trained as a tool maker but have been machining for 20 years. I am now starting to learn the art of making tools and wish I had been taught this many years ago. We really enjoy your videos here at the shop and thank you for making them and sharing your knowledge.
Hi Lead,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Ground my first lathe bit after watching several other videos. This one demystified it for me. I followed your very simple instructions in this video and started cutting beautiful smooth steel on the first try on my old Shoptask. Thank you!!!!!
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the comment. I find too much talk about the angles and their names are not helpful to beginners until they have ground a couple of bits. Glad you had a good result with your own ground tool.
Cheers,
Tom
I just found your channel a week or so ago and it is a wealth on useful information. Most videos on toolbit sharpening spend too much time talking about angles and theory. I liked the fact that you created a toolbit and then used it in your lathe. Real life turning not just theory. Looking forward to the flycutter portion. Inserts are great but HSS will always have place in my toolbox. Thanks, Rich
This is a great lesson. Im a newbie and just started grinding bits. So this helped me fill a lot of knowledge gaps that other videos did not. Thanks!!!!
Hi Keith,
Its a dual grit bench stone made by Norton. Its similar to McMaster 4506A5. I think it came from MSC or J&L tools. The fine side is something like 320 and the coarse side is a little too rough for most things. Glad to hear you put something you saw to use in the shop. That kind of stuff makes my day.
Thanks for the comment.
Regards,
Tom
This video explains the inconsistent finish quality. This is priceless for a beginner like me. Thank you so much.
Hi Jeffrey,
Glad you had some success. Thanks for the comment and participation.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Chris,
Great points. There is way to much weight is given to specific tool angles and geometries. The bottom line is a large range of configurations work. Take a look in a really old machining handbook at check out some wacky looking forged tools. In the olden days (when you were a lad) a blacksmith was an important guy in the machine shop. Many tools were forged and heat treated right on the shop floor.
Regards,
Tom
A big THANK YOU for taking the time to share all your years of hard learned experience, you save the average home machinist countless hours of learning the hard way. AGAIN THANK YOU
Hi G,
Thanks for the nice comment. Its nice to hear folks appreciate the effort,
All the best,
Tom
Now THAT is a tool bit collection! The honing really makes a difference to the surface finish....
Just a few more of these videos and I should be capable of using my own hobby lathe :)
Hi Tom,
today I practiced your tool grinding techniques and I am astonished about the result. The cuttingsound was smooth and I meet had so many curls when cutting so now I need to make the chip breaker. I have been facing off a 5 inch diameter disc and it was peanuts. Thanks for the great video. Regards, Ritchie
Hi Chippie,
Glad you had a good outcome. This is the stainless steel you were machining correct? Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
Hi Jack,
You are right. I generally grind my chipbreakers on my Deckel. The small diameter fine diamond wheel is the killer tool. Not everybody has that so I did it the lowest equipment investment method. I'm glad I got the point across.
Best,
Tom
Hi Flip,
I took the chipbreaker all the way to the leading edge. It is very high positive cutting angle. The chip breaker is rather large which is somewhat realistic hand grinding on an average bench grinder. To make really fine chipbreakers you need a fine narrow wheel with a tight crisp dressing.
Best,
Tom
Nice video. I am new to lathe/milling operations and it good to see the mechanics of tool development and the corresponding impact of speed and feed operation on the finished product. thank you!
Hi Straighthread,
The stone on the left side is Aluminum oxide run of the mill bench grinder wheel. Probably 46 grit. The right hand one is Silicon Carbide, also fairly coarse. You don't need super fine wheels for most tool bit work in particular if you hand hone. Fine grit wheels are nice for holding form and sharp corners like you would need for detail work like chipbreakers.
Regards,
Tom
I would recommend this video to anyone wanting to learn toolbit grinding. Great video. Keep making chips.
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Adam,
Can't wait to see your next video. You are so smooth on the lathe its a pleasure to watch.
Best,
Tom
Hi Chris,
Another good point. In fact in this video I moved the leading cutting edge over after I ground the chip breaker. The wheels on my grinder have big corners so I was having a little trouble making a tight little chipbreaker. But I also really wanted to use the bench grinder and the lowest equipment investment tools.
Best,
Tom
Hi Dan,
Excellent questions. The reason I lifted the tool was to get onto the more curved part of the wheel if that makes sense. I was holding the bit at a compound angle to do the top rake of the bit. So I tipped the right hand side of the tool in toward the spindle and down toward the tool rest. Its also easier to feel when you engage with the wheel if you are making full contact with the previous grind. Its water with a little soluble oil.
Best,
Tom
Hi Tyler,
Great question. First I would have ground the chip breaker differently for steel to make it stronger. For the same basic tool in steel I would have run it at 250-300 rpm and the heavier feed rate on the 1.5 (50mm) diameter.
Regards,
Tom
I know this video has been up for a while and I have subscribed to your site for a while , but I have just come across it and it has filled in SO many missing links in my knowledge.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They are so helpful to home machinists. A very helpful video, thank you
Hi Charles,
Glad you found something useful. This is all the stuff the books leave out. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great video Tom. I enjoyed the fact you showed how minor changes like honing can make amazing changes. I have discovered from using HSS inserts when the finish starts to get rough or erratic a quick pass on a vermiculite stone brings back the original performance. Keep up the great work
Thanks Scot
Thanks, I am not sure how to comment on your blog but that is one of the coolest lathes I've ever seen. Between its ergonomic three speed tail-stock and the infinitely variable rpm it is a well featured machine. You would be crazy not to be it home Tom.
Thanks Tom that makes sense with the DRO, I never have used one on a lathe.
I should have been more specific in my question, I was wondering about the tool rest on the grinder. Thanks, Bill.
Excellent description on grinding hss toolbits, I particularly like your comment at 13 min about wide range of angles that will work, I also like that you place the toolbit flat on the table and let the radius of the wheel produce the back rake, much easier to regrind when its time,
+Walter Maisey Hi Walter,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi fgleich,
Another viewer suggested the very same idea. I tried it myself and it seems like a way to put in a very small narrow chipbreaker that would work well for light depth of cuts and slow feedrates. Thanks for the comment.
Regards,
Tom
Tom
back watching some of your older videos. Good stuff geat demo, also interesting to see how you have devoliped as a presenter. still a joy. thanks really enjoy hearing your thought process. I always am interested in the why. not just push it up against the wheel.
thanks Will
Hi Will,
Thanks for the nice comment.
Cheers,
Tom
thanks for the simple to follow instructions Tom!
i learned the importance of a chipbreaker grind last year turning some 4140 when a nice long stringer caught me and split my knuckle to the bone.
this video will definitely help improve my work so thanks
Hi Hal,
That's a good way to grind a small feature like a chipbreaker. I'm going to get a couple of finer harder wheels for my small bench grinder and get back in practice. Lawrence suggested a Dremel with a small cutoff wheel which I tried and it works well.
Regards,
Tom
Hi Steve,
They are all interconnected. Surface speed, feed rate and tool geometry. Of all of the factors feed rate has the most effect on chip breaker performance.
Best,
Tom
Hi Sharg,
I showed and insert similar to what you mention in another video. Several viewers requested a video showing honing and preparation in more detail. I also like the diamond hones for touching up tools for the same reason you mention. I wanted to show the lowest level of tooling investment needed to make good cutting tools. Thanks for your comment.
Regards,
Tom
Hi Tom,
Low carbon steel and in particular hot rolled is difficult to get a really nice finish on. My advice is use a nose radius and take a depth of cut radially that is equal to the nose radius or greater as a minimum cut. The hard thing is to take a really light cut and get a super finish on hot rolled steel.
Regards,
Tom
GAAHHHH THANK YOU FOR EXPLAINING THE RIGHT AND LEFT IDENTIFICATION. IM KINDA NEW TO MACHINING AND JUST BOUGHT MY FIRST LATHE ABOUT A MONTH OR SO AGO AND HAVE BEEN REALLY CONFUSED ON WHY THEY CALL A TOOL THAT FACES LEFT A RIGHTY AND A RIGHT FACING TOOL A LEFTY.
I just ground a HSS tool today, and the finish in 1018 was rough. My feeds are limited on the old Logan. I didn't want to go to a tangential shear tool for finish. I'll go stone the new bit and try it again. Thanks TL!!!!
+stxrynn Hey Let us know how it works out. 1018 is a pain to get a super nice finish on sometimes. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for the great tutorial! I use an EZE-LAP diamond stone to hone my high speed cutting bits after grinding. Additionally I polish (lap) them with various other tools to get a nice finish. Most of what I machine on my very small TOS tool makers lathe, is 303 stainless, and precious metals. I never had much need for a chip breaker, and I am going to give this a try the next time I need to grind a new cutting bit.
Hi Zews,
I like the diamond laps myself. I deliberately tried to keep the tool bit video as low a tool investment as possible. There are some wonderful diamond products out there at really reasonable prices. As you say everybody should have some diamond tooling in their box. I wonder what the chip breaker for gold and platinum look like. I'd be willing to run some tests for you.......
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for the video. I’ve just started making my own HSS tools and I really enjoy it. I’m no good at it yet but I am having fun!
Haven't finished watching this yet, but i thought id say that i normally skip honing stones and just give my tools a lick on the balder buffing wheel before I use them and it does essentially the same thing, leaves a nice finish at least with aluminum. Its something I started doing years back with wood carving chisels and the cutters I used on my old wood lathe and I've just carried the practice over in my shop for metal work.
And if you find yourself up in humboldt county sometime, stop by. Be cool to meet you and talk shop one of these days.
Hi Bill,
I generally keep my toolpost at 90 degrees to the axes for everything. It is probably a habit from using DRO's on lathes for so long where you might have to retain five or six tool offsets. Moving the post around all the time monkeys with keeping tools calibrated.
Regards,
Tom
Hi Zippy,
Thanks for the comment.
Regards,
Tom
Great tool grinding techniques. I like how you presented your lesson. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Cutter,
Thanks for the comment and compliment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Sharg,
I didn't take your comment in a negative way. You seem knowledgeable and experienced about metalworking and it shows. Thanks again for your comment that makes the channel content better.
Regards,
Tom
Very informative. I feel It's one of those things that can be theorised reasonably easily but perfected via trial and error. I cant wait to try.
Oh, and to all the comments about the danger of hands in the chips, obviously he's been doing It for years and still has all his fingers. I'll be damn sure to stay away until I naturally feel attuned to my task just like any trade.
+Tristan Patterson Hi Tristan,
Thanks for the comment.
cheers,
Tom
Tristan Patterson
Great video Tom, you have sparked my interest and I'm going to have ago at grinding my tool bits now. Thanks John
Hey John,
Go for it. Its important to understand how tool geometry relates to the cutting action. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice video. I hadn't planned to watch the whole thing, but you kept it interesting with the comparison of various tool geometries as well as feed rates and depth of cut. I liked your demonstration of the chip breaker groove. However, I think that makes the tool suitable only for turning, and you would need the groove on the other cutting edge for facing. I sometimes use diamond files to touch up my tool bits, particularly carbide, and I use a 5x binocular magnifier. Thanks for the tips.
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the comment and compliment. Indeed you can face with this tool as well. It will perform better at turning for sure but it will face as well. I have several of the diamond honing files and love them. I just keep cleaning them and they just keep lasting forever.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the comment. Now watch the video.
Best,
Tom
Hey Tom I got my first lathe delivered yesterday a BV20-1L. I've never used a machine lathe before, just a little time on a wood lathe in 8th grade. The last week I've been watching your tool development 1-2 and 3. I got all HSS blanks with a sharp edge from the factory and after the first cut which was a little crappy I took it off, honed it and gave the front leading edge a little radius on the stone and what do you know, much better just like your video, but like you said we can still do better. That's buddy, saved me a lot of trouble from the first 2 minutes on the new machine.
ROCKMOREDESIGN Hi Rock,
Glad you liked that one. Congratulations on your new lathe. Its always fun to get a new machine tool. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom I have to bore a perfect 22mm hole in the side of a 30mm 6061 rod. The hole is to be used as a clamp to hold another 22mm tube. I bored a 21mm hole and found out quickly that an adjustable reamer is not designed to enlarge a hole, just smooth it out. My next move is to bore the 21mm hole and use a 22mm end mill mounted in my lathe chuck to enlarge the hole. I made a clamp with taped holes to attach my work piece to the saddle and move it into the drill. Worked perfect to bore the 21mm hole. The question is will it work to bore out the hole to 22mm with the end mill.. I Thanks for the advice, my HSS radius lathe tools work well already, but as you said we can do better. Here is the Facebook page with the 1st rough part.
facebook.com/mike.rockmore.3
I like your angled toolholder shelf on top of the lathe.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the comment. In one video I do a survey of it so you can see it a little closer.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom another great Video, on making a chip breaker how about cutting it with a thin cut off wheel in die grinder, I find it's easier and creates a sharper edge for the chip breaker. The tool bit is held in the vice does not get hot and I have more control with a die grinder. Hal
This is a great video and the first I have seen of yours. You have great camera angles and very good explanations of what you are doing and what you hope to accomplish. I am anxious to watch your other 95 videos and hope they are just as good. Nice work Tom!!!!
Cool video man! Really good idea of showing the differences between the stages of grinding/honing. This is an art form that few and fewer people seem to know these days so thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, I will pass on what I have learned here today I promise, my apprentices will appreciate this, as do I :)
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Rick,
Thanks for the swell comment. Its all in the results right? There are no prizes for talent just results.
Regards,
Tom
Hi Fadt,
Most of the holders I've seen for inserts that have that much relief are flat also. That is horizontal to the machine center line. You could put some angle in the pocket to create some rake but I would not do it. If you get non flat top inserts that already have a positive geometry they may not perform at all. Stick with what the manufacturers are doing as they invest lots of time and money to get their tools to work. Hope that helps.
Regards,
Tom
Hi Adam,
Thanks for the nice comment. I would really like to see you do a toolbit video also. In all the shops I worked in everybody had their own tricks for making good toolbits. I think you could do a great one and show some of the features you like to see in lathe tools. Yeah the Noga holder is working good. My camera is getting oily!
Regards,
Tom
Homo Sapiens the tool maker. Watching you carefully make these tools from observational skills and long term experience I can't help but think about our Ice Age Ancestors (as modern as we and perhaps more intelligent, their brains were actually larger than ours today) sitting around the fire Flint Knapping a variety of specialized tools from the materials found in their environment, who's very lives and their families depended on their quality.
Hi Titus,
If you read about Ishi a California Indian they were able to study at close range. They noted he was very careful and meticulous when knapping and making tools and articles he depended on. I think you are right about their craftsmanship was more of life and death for them. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Ok Tom, I started watching the video this morning when I was getting ready for work, but I had to wait untill my 13 hour work day was finished to finish watching the rest. Good info on the tool grinding and honing, I enjoyed it. I have to say, I was planning on making a similar video myself, and hope you dont mind if I do so some time later. BTW, I noticed that NOGA holder is helping you get more closer to the action!!
Hi Scot,
As you said once you have a good tool its pretty easy to maintain it with some light honing or built up edge removal. Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
thanks for your time and knowledge you so freely give.
Hi John,
Thanks for the nice comment.
All the best,
Tom
Hi Annoy,
Not sure what you mean "away" from the edge. I push the tool in the direction that would make it cut. In other words the same direction the material would flow into the edge in question. Does that make sense? I think I might have said something like how you sharpen a knife in the video. I don't think it matters too much which is probably why I didn't blather on about it.
Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
Thank you for the video! I just discovered your channel last week or so. Great channel and I am enjoying your videos!!
Thanks a lot. I am wondering how much time and materials nice people like you donate in making these videos.
I have been learning a lot about machining because of great people like you. Thanks a ton sir!!
Hi Yash,
Good questions. I spend around something like 20 hours per week to produce and post the video content I put up. As far as materials it depends on the subject matter. Most of the tools I already have but I do spend some on raw materials and consumables that adds up over a year. Thanks for asking a great question.
All the best,
Tom
Very good video. It helped me to understand the basics.
Hi HP,
Thanks for the comment. More toolbit stuff coming out soon. Stay tuned.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi rhost,
The chip breaker does go all the way to the edge. Its rather large for fine depth of cuts so that is part of the reason it performed poorly on the light cuts. The feedrate was the variable with the most effect on the chips breaking with the setup I showed.
Thanks for the comment.
Best,
Tom
To those who seen differently, sometimes there is also Aluminium who provides small and quick breaking chips, it can be the aluminium itself.
Tom, great demonstration!
Just what I needed. Thanks, Larry
Thank you for share this important things .
MrCrispin has a great tool sharpening video... he's a Rolls-Royce engineer.
Wow! Well done! You are a really good teacher. Thanks!
+Joseph Stokes Hi Joseph,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom!...all depends but for just a chip breaker the small cutoff wheel works great much more control in how you want it positioned etc...I do use small blue wheels too...
Have to say I didn't watch the video yet. But love all the videos Tom. It's like taking metal shop in my own house. Can't beat that
Hi John,
Thanks for the kind words. Looking forward to the next project in your shop. Did you sort your camera issues?
Regards,
Tom
Hmmm... maybe some electrolytic honing with vapour deposition on the cutting edge... :)
I know, I know... I have been busy building stuff and didn't really want to do a video showing half a build.
I will try to post an update during the weekend...
Super great info. As a rookie, you took a lot of mystery out of tool bit sharpening. I have rarely honed. Can't believe the difference it makes. Will cutting steal have the same results? I usually cut hot rolled steal and am not often satisfied with the finish.
next video maybe a little blackboard theory? great info Tom. tkx,
.
excellent video.thanks for sharing your knowledge
Hi James,
Thanks for taking the time to support the channel and comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco I have new respect for that 80 yr old shoe box of hss cutters that used to belong to my great grandfather. It looks like I've inherited his "bread and butter" as you put it. So many different styles and shapes - all hand ground - and he left them all perfectly sharp for me! Picked up a small combo machine over the weekend and started to learn. I was debating whether to use his HSS cutters and learn the nuances of grinding, or to purchase an entry level carbide tool holder. I'm going to use the HSS. think it will make me a better machinist in the long run.
Thank you for explaining it was very helpful
Very good video Tom; from your back catalog. All the tool angles are really confusing when starting out on the lathe. You took the edge of that with this video. Thanks. I noticed that your stone was pretty grimy. I was told that using oil on the stone transports all the metal particles away, and makes it easier to keep a "sharp" stone (or clean if you like).
Hi Arnljot,
I clean my stones pretty regularly normally. They pick up metal from stoning off large surfaces. I guess I showed this one in a loaded condition. I typically use the stones dry. There are two points of view on stone sharpening dry or wet. Both have merits depending on the type of stone and the sharpening goal. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice demo and thanks for sharing.
Hey Hunter,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice work Mr. Oxtools.
Great video When i started turning i never found a good video like yours , the chip breaker maybe could be easy to made with a dremel or any other rotatory tool ,and a small cutting disc.
Hi Battle,
Harder grinding wheels work well for chipbreakers. My wheels were too soft for a small one. A dremel would also work well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
HI!!! I'am brazilian ,, I like this channel , thanks
Hi Fred,
I don't think I honed the top surface after the chipbreaker was put in. The reason is if that surface is honed after it can very easily be damaged since its a fine edge. I lead with the cutting edge as you say but many people go the opposite.
I bought the maps at a local voodoo shop. What city were you in again? Looks like I need to stick another couple of pins there.
Regards,
Tom
Hi
Tom
That was a first class demonstration
Good video-- explains the missing info in sharpening. What is is the math for speed feed/ length of cut-- you keep referring to.
Hi Alex,
If it works then that's all that matters. Its more important to make good parts than to do everything by the book so to speak. You are probably correct that the cutting edge will not last as long but if the results are controllable and reproducible then who cares. The word on tool angles is there is a broad range of angles and geometries that will cut metal. Don't get hung up on the "book" I would suggest trying your coworkers deal yourself and making your own assessment.
Best,
Tom
Small lathe, but I am having trouble getting good finishes, mostly I think because of my tools. Also I would like to better understand the difference between roughing and finishing, both in terms of tool geometry and feeds and speeds. Thank you for this.
Hi Scott,
First off I can tell from your questions you need to buy the Southbend book "How to Run a Lathe" This book is a must have for anybody that has a lathe, period. They are readily available and cheap. So a couple of quick words on roughing and finishing. Remember these guidelines.
Rough ugly. Its to remove material quickly, nothing else. Feedrates from .015 down to .008.
Finishing is for size and finish. Sharp honed tools and feedrates from .005 down to .002 per rev or less on certain operations.
For a small lathe that is not rigid then lean toward the finishing side of things with sharper lower pressure tools.
Hope this helps.
All the best,
Tom
this video is going in to my library and will be shared with all how ask. great awesome video. watched it 10 times
Hi Sam,
Thanks for the nice comment. This has been a really popular video.
All the best,
Tom
I'm try to get the word out on ,"the safety of chip brakers and truly sharp tools."
best made simple video on the subject.thanks. When you grind the chipbreaker, do you grind it all the way to the cutting edge (thus dramatically increasing the rake angle)? or do you leave a tiny flat at the cutting edge to prevent the cutting edge to keep the edge from dulling too fast? it was hard to see if there was a tiny little sharpie line left on the cutting edge.
Hi EF,
I'm sure you will find some electrolytic honing method for your toolbits. Still waiting for your next video installment mate.
Regards,
Tom
I might not choose that particular word to describe it.........
Happy Friday,
Tom
Hi Lawrence,
Thats a great idea! I'm going to try that out right away because I just picked up a nice corded Dremel for ten bucks. Thanks for the great idea. Do you just use the thin cutting discs or the diamond type?
Best,
Tom
Like the video. Informative. I think you might want to rethink the suggestion of grinding it "uphill" however due to the possibility of the hss becoming a projectile.
HSS is a machinists friend. I use it daily!
Great Video thank's for you help
WOW :) now you helped me alot. I have not known how to get a good surface on aluminium. Thanx (@22:42)
I have now ordered at grinder :)
Hi Tobias,
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the comment. Be sure to get a sharpening stone while your at it.
Cheers,
Tom
Missed that :) Will get one
Tom that was really good I'm going to have to watch it again to catch all the info. The tool bits I've ground have been with smaller stock (1/4 inch) which makes it hard to see and get the geometry right. I'm going to see if I can get some larger tool bit stock to grind. Honing really seems to make a big difference too I'm going to try that as well. What angle is your tool rest at it looks like 90? Thanks again for the vid!
Thanks for a great video.
Best regards
Looking at the last part of the video, it looks like the reason the chip breaker isn't working is because the chips are never hitting it due to the relief angle on the front side of the blank. If you moved the chip breaker closer to the cutting edge it would work with less DOC.
Thank you for making the video, helps a lot