Thanks man, yeah i went through days of research and i have done a few now. I tried to keep it simple and show what i think is the best place to start for most guys.
Years lter and I'm still going back and watching a LOT of your videos again. There's a lot of information and good questions in them. You've been the N54 Guru Andrew! No doubt about it!
Man i have been around the block when it comes to N54s. While my e92 is wiating on a few things for the motor setup. I have foolishly taken on a new S63 project. Now they are nearly worthless with a few issues, i want to take on that platform with the same ethos i took on the N54s..... We will see how it pans out.
ALPINA TCU flash is known to be extremely "slippy" feeling. Would not recommend to flash it on anything. Stage 2/3 XHP is the way to go. I think it would have been nice to see the difference with just a stock TCU flash without any hardware changes.
My 6hp19 gearbox has 50k miles on it and it fluctuates in rpm when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throws the 4F89 error. I changed the sealing sleeve, oil and filter, I will analyze the solenoids. I did a lot of research on this error code (4F89) and came to the conclusion that the problem is not with the gearbox itself, do you have any idea what else I can check?
Nice update. My 335i has 193k miles (not km!) and trans has never been serviced. I feel like if it starts having issues, a DCT swap from a 335is would be in order!
@@ZeroTo60Tube hey , just want to get your opinion, my n45 is pushing around 450whp on hybrid turbo, the 6hp trans is slipping on 5th and even 6th gear, do you think a friction plate rebuild is needed? or we just a solenoid and sleeve service will do ?
@@carsonwong Possibly, however my understanding is lack of oil pressure is what causes the frictions to wear on most cars. It really luck of the draw with older trans.
@@carsonwonglmk what you did im experiencing the same issues rn I think I’m just making to much power for a stock trans, haven’t dyno’d but I’d think it’s around 500whp
Min 2011 345 fluid ran low and I wasn’t able to drive . Shop soda was down two about two quarts they changed fluid and filter was drives ke but still sloppy between 3/4 gear . We changed sleeves next but still same… I’m so sad is there next step? Solenoids? The car only has mhd s1. I’m blown away after all this so far still says slips a little between 3/4 , car wasn’t raced and had a light duty life since 10k mile Ownership Could I have damaged the transmission from running to long on low fluid ? Shopmsays still gets transmission malfunction light
I have 330i, shifting from 2-3 is taking long and finally a big jerk and that happens only when i exceleration. If I'm not excelerating it will change smoothly. Previously I have refilled the trans fluid. I did not change anything. What could that be
THIS VIDEO WAS AMAZING! thank you so much this helped me so much. Those solenoid 0 rings should probably be lubed as well before install but pretty sure they come lubed
PSA I had same flare shifts on two separate zf6hp21x transmissions and nothing fixed it seals, new flushed LG6, new pan, not even a zip kit fixed it. Replacing the E-clutch bushings fix it. I touched nothing else only the E-clutch bushings and new E frictions (because they where worn) it was not hard to open it up and took no special tools just time consuming.
Has anybody had an issue where 6hp21 transmission starts randomly changing gears from m1-m6 while in Drive. When this happens even when i put in sport/manual mode it doesnt change gear if i want to. When its working ok and showing Drive while in Drive I can normally go to sport and change gears. Ive changed seals, solenoids oil didn't solve the problem.
I have a question for you My question to you is so if I put my foot on the break when I warmed up the car and when I engaged into drive it will think it's going forward while I'm holding on the break that's the same thing in rear when I go in reverse like a force instead of just pressing on the gas pedal and then go can that be because of the solenoid almost as if it's slippage
Hi bro., I changed my transmission to another one just like the previous one (6HP21), But now I don't see the changes on the display and the paddle shifters don't work, is one BMW 135! N54 2010, thanks and very good day bro... Regards
I have this same issue on my 2010 320i how do I sort it out. These are the codes I got from scanning. 1.CF1D No Messages From DSC, Receiver DKG/EGS, Transmitter RDC/DSC Current 2.CF1C EGS: No Messages From Engine Control Current 3.581A EGS: Signal Fault, Wheel Circumferential Velocity Front Left From DSC Current 4.581B EGS: Signal Fault, Wheel Circumferential Velocity Front Right From DSC Current
My 6hp26 struggles to change gear when flooring it can be on max rpm for 1-2sec before changing gear can it be the solenoids greatful for an answer.. hopefully idont have to change the whole gearbox
I have the 6HP21 on a N47 diesel. Sometimes I'm getting harder shifts 2-3 and 4-5. One day the gearbox drives like butter and two days later you can feel that it shifts with a slight delay and kicks. Done an oil change, sleeves and valve body seal (plate) xHP Stage 3 flashed. The more I drive the less you can feel those issues so I don't think it's something mechanical because adaptation values are good and the oil was pretty clean 😢
Did you solve it ? I got the same problems on the same car/engine. I was thinking about changing the solenoids, sleeves, oil etc, but I m afraid of spending money for nothing and other thing being the problem.. Waiting for your answer ✌️
I have a bmw e91 330D Automatic. The problem i have is that it works perfectly on all gears exept 6th, its like it loose power even in manual mode. I changed the solenoids oil and pan but didnt help, i have checked with a computer but does not show any fault codes. Please help!
I’m having a issue with my zf box it doesn’t hold full boost the car jumps from m4 to s6 then have codes cd99 cd9e cd9d cdb0, could this be caused by the seals?? Thank you
how much oil actually comes out when you remove the plug ,did mine and only 2litres came out . is that normal? asking coz ive only had car few months and looks like might of have a small oil leek but over a long time , so im at a bit of a loss , how much typically stays in the box some peeps say about a third . ?????
Hi , please can you help me i am bough BMW E 65 740 i 2007 original 160.000 km all ,last service in transmission do previous owner on 95.000 km problem is automatic transmission hard shifting .What need to do ,thanks.
what size sleeves did you use? I have the same exact transmission but FCPeuro no longer has a sleeve kit for the transmission and just sells each one separately. Not sure if it’s one of each or multiple of a certain size. Thank you!
I am bought BMW 740 i E 65 2007 car got all service 160.000 km original ,last servic automatic do on 97.000 km problem car hard shifting what is problem thanks.
Dustin I am so sorry I missed this comment. It will likely be the shift selector sensor in the box. Just needs to be lined up with the fork as the mechatronics goes back in
@@wickedclwn05 It had a fork like part that lines up with the end of the rod. See the top middle of this photo. The fork is on the other side of the rod. s32667.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/TD200709_ShiftPointers_02.jpg
Are the valve body solenoids really worth replacing if the car has been shifting fine? Just did this service but only did the seals, adapter plug, and fluid/filter.
Is there a shift lever solenoid in the ZF6HP for a 2007 e92 335i RWD besides the ones on the valve body? Reason I ask is my car abruptly decided it won't go into drive or reverse...usually you lose one before the other goes shortly after but not at the same time without warning. I've already verified the pump is working because I get line pressure at the cooler...There's definitely enough (lifeguard 6) fluid in it as I've already verified when I swapped the valve body with a known good unit from my parts car along with new genuine solenoids and new seals all around...which also didn't fix my issue. It for some reason moves in neutral at about 3000 RPM (I didn't try this for very long). Clutches are only 15000km old and I found almost 0 material on the magnets when I dropped the pan to swap the valve body. While I do have a spare I'd prefer not to drop the trans to swap the torque converter if I don't have to as I'm working on jackstands and don't have a lift.
Could be an oil pressure problem based on what you are describing. What ever it is, it will be an internal issue in the box. Please update this comment when you find out what it is.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Figured it out. I was checking the line pressure before the cooler like an idiot and not after (at the cooler outlet). Turned out the cooler was clogged with clutch material likely from before I had the new packs put in which prevented the pressure needed to engage the gears. Been meaning to upgrade anyways so I switched to a stand alone BMS air cooled unit that sits in driver side wheel well just like the engine oil cooler does on the other side...more work than I felt like doing but now it's flawless. Doesn't explain why I could rev it to 3000 in neutral and make the car crawl...but It's not doing that anymore and shifts better than brand new with xHP Stage 4 flashed.
I recently did this exact same maintenance on my 6AT, solenoids and all. I reset the adaptions as well, and downloaded the re-learning instructions from FCP - they're a bit daunting to be honest,. I'm just curious about how you went about doing the re-learning with the Vargas car here? I live about 150 km up the coast from LA, and the terrain here is hilly! There aren't many open stretches of level roadway, and the only freeway 'round here (the 101) is bustling most hours of the day and conspicuously patrolled by local PD at night. Unfortunately there aren't any nearby raceways either. As a workaround, I just took my 135i out for several gentle drives around town, hoping the TCM will learn organically. Is that realistic?
Look don't tell anyone, but back in the day when i did my ZF6 in the x5 in 2018 and my zf6 in the 17t car in 2019. I did the legit proper learning process, every god damn step to a tee, it takes ages and you really have to do it at night and a decent road. Now I just do 5-10 light accelerations in d, or until its shifting right at say 25% throttle. Then the same at 50%, then the same at 75%. I come to a stop after every acceleration. If i find it flaring on a particular shift i will keep doing it until it's smooth. Then i do sports mode at 50%, 75% and 100% throttle and then just do manual mode at 75% and 100% thottle for the manual mode, i dont bother coming to a stop just do a decent pull thought 1st to 4th. After that i come to a complete stop and go reverse for 2-3 seconds back to N about 5 times, then the same for D. I will also do some short shift in manual mode at wot. Basically put the trans through the conditions i drive it. However you have to do that light load learning in d mode first.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Cheers for confiding that little pearl! I've taken note, and with the forecast for brilliant weather this holiday weekend, will go out and follow your method precisely. Man what a relief - that's been bugging me. Thank you so much!
So just checked it again, took the car for another drive this morning. Reset adaptations in MHD for vanos, octane and a few other things. Car is driving better again. Clutch fill pressures are A:5.0, B:18.0, C:7.0, D:18.0, E:0.0 all rapid fill times are currently 0.0. So huge change from prior to doing the maintenance. Super happy with how its driving this morning.
There is no set way for every car. Different tyres, different power levels and different road surfaces will all require a different technique. However get yourself a draggy and get experimenting. You can set the dragy up to measure your 60ft times on every launch and the data you get from that will be invaluable.
Hi again! This shit is exectly happing on my gearbox right now while 1-2-3 shifting! yes the same crap! I changed oil and those glasses and black rabber tubes and socket, and pan with filter, but solenoids left the old. Now I need again buy new oil and everything else, also I saw that somebody changes mechatronic gasket and metal balls or something.
It’s really hard to recommend someone. The only guy I know we’ll enough in the entire bris area is Dan from simply tuning. But he is a specialist for going fast and you will be paying a lot of money for maintenance that could be done at a cheaper rate. I know of a lot of shops in bris that say they specialise in euros. I don’t know of any that are actually good at it when the cars get a bit of age on them. The specialists are great for servicing and modding new ish cars but don’t have the experience with older stuff, so you pay through your teeth. Can recommend a mate up here on the coast. Shoot me an email if you want his contact details.
@@ZeroTo60Tube you are absolutely right Andrew I’m not entirely sure any euro specialist in Brisbane are N54 specialist. One mechanic in Newmarket who I got the car analysed from asked me to sell the car due to a few oil leaks. I asked him to send me a quote for the repairs and he still has not. Which has me worried! Nevertheless, I’ve sent an email through to your gmail account. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks heaps!
I got a bmw e90 2006 and everytime I come to a complete stop it jerks back. Is it time for me to do this maintenance on my car? Or is it something else causing this? Can’t find the solution to this yet
@@ZeroTo60Tube I really appreciate it because I reached out to the person who rebuild it he told that I need a new VALVE BODY & TCM just wanted to make sure before buying stuff that I don’t need
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thanks I've decided I'm going to avoid the hassle and just buy ProTool and do it through there. Another quick question though, for the refill procedure could you just confirm that you 1. Fill it to overflow with engine off, 2. Start engine and fill to overflow, and then with engine still on 3. Go through gears and wait till trans fluid is at least 40 C before doing third and final fill to overflow? Thanks again.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I’ve been running xhp for almost 3 years now, I’m thinking of flashing back to stock before the install, then reflashing a tank or two of gas after I do the re learn procedures. Would you recommend that or just leaving it ?
i just put 17ts on my n54 and my transmission does not like it in 5th and 6th gear, might need a new transmission :( hopefully its something smaller like this though
I need to do this cause my 3-4th gear doesn’t like to shift properly. Shoots up in rpm’s trying to catch 4th. I’m extremely scared cause I heard shifting gets worse after doing this job. And having to reset adaptations and all that 😩😩😩😩
Clutch Pack E is gone on your transmission. You'll need a rebuild or swap in a used trans. Happened to me and I completely lost the ability to shift into gears 4-6. Keep an eye on your transmission temps. I was quoted 4500$ for a transmission rebuild. Used trans swap will run like 1300$ for labor and trans oil and rear main seal. Shop sourced me a trans for $1400 so I could get a warranty out of it. I'm stage 2+ 93oct. I'd say being tuned really made the issue worse. Stock power levels the trans was fine
My 6AT is flashed with the alpina flash as well, and it definitely shifts better than this. At least it feels a LOT snappier. Could be something to do with the ATF BMV you used. That fluid cost me a 5HP once so I stayed the hell away from it since lmao. I did the sleeves and the square gasket, along with filter/pan combo and fluid, but instead used OEM ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid instead. Maybe worth a try? In any case, video was great! :D
Absolutely not the atf is amazing. Used it in my old 6at, which is still the only 6at I am aware of that snaps axles. However can you link to a video of yours going through the gears in different modes pls. Keen to see what it’s like. Also what dme flash do you have?
@@TIPh0enix Cheers man! Just post a new comment wiht a video link, it will be the quickest way to get it in my eyes. The messages can sometime build up a little..... :S or a lot.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Haha understood. Please ignore the parkinsons spec recording, not a seasoned YT veteran lmaoo Here you go man: ruclips.net/video/5b1P2R4oWaU/видео.html
I should add to that. I want to see how it behaves on the ones in. See if they are a problem or you can away with older injectors when you have port injection.
Great informative video! The step by step was a lot more clear than other peoples tbh, so good on you for that. However, I was curious that you didn't attempt to have the zip kit placed to tackle some of the faults with the transmission in the first place. The sonnax zip kit will fix most of the wear and tear inside the "mechatronics unit" and prolong the life of the unit as well as the crisp "like new" shifts. Curious to get your input on that! Otherwise, enjoyed watching through the whole thing.
Honestly its purely because i have never personally seen a trans that needs a zip kit. Thats all. Im sure they exist for a reason, just not seen it needed personally.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Depends on the mileage really. Most businesses that repair these transmissions appreciate the wear that occurs in the valve body over time, especially if the trans has not been oil/filter serviced appropriately. Many parts in the zip kit are designed to address those issues. Downside is that you will need to buy a new seperator plate as these ruin the gallery seals once removed, but they are cheap enough. BTW, a year later I paid $74 for 4 litres of Penrite fluid. And the ZF manual says the adaptions must be cleared and a relearn done if you change the soleniods. This is specific.
A good condition trans will hold 800hp at the crank. Maybe more, if you have decent software on it. This one has been miss treated by previous owners. Like never serviced before 190,000ks, i still intend on pushing that 800hp figure through it. My other car was over 700hp and again poorly maintained trans, that never skipped a beat at over 700hp. But like in the video i did all this stuff to my other one too.
Being a f series you should have the zf8. Which is a much better box. The zf8 uses a seperate oil pump system which doesn’t have the pressure losses like the zf6……… yet. However even though the zF8 seems pretty good or at least we don’t know common failure points yet. It’s still worth doing a fluid change if you have modified the motor.
Hopefully someone sees this I did the same thing on my car yesterday now the wheels aren’t moving when the car is in drive or reverse is this due to low fluid?
Any ideas why my shifts would be extremely rough under boost? I’m running 22 lbs and if I shift with my foot with all the gas it’s a terrible experience, feels like it slips, rpms shoot up, haven’t tested if it’s every gear but something is definitely wrong. I’m running xHP stage 3 on sportive +
@@ZeroTo60TubeI replace the fluid and filter about a month ago but no, didn’t replace the solenoids. When I’m just driving normally it shifts perfect, it’s just while in 3rd-4th gear at high boost
@@ZeroTo60Tube ohh hell yeah! As per your video, one of your mate is running the viv v3s, how is it going? I will be pushing no mote than 21 psi boost. I got tune file from WedgePerformance
@@TCGTV98 the guys with the v3's is having fun, but there is something not right with the car, when we actually work it out we will share. Have a few ideas.
The 6hp21 will not hold big torque for very long. Over 550-600wtq it starts the slip in between gears and eventually just starts getting worse and worse. I just recently swapped in the diesel transmission (6hp28) from the 335d as I was having slipping issues on 2 6hp21s @30psi. The 6hp28 in stock form is rated for double the torque and power than the 6hp21 from the factory and it is direct bolt on (with adapter plates) and exact same gear ratio as the 6hp21. Check out my latest video if you wanna see some more information on that as it was very successful and now I’m good for up to 1200ftlbs with rod Sutphin trans tune but good luck with yours man 🤙🏼
i just 8hp75 swapped mine. pure drivetrain solutions stage 2 8hp75 good for 1600ft lbs 5k rpm a90 supra torque converter with billet stator. 8hp75 with 3.31 final drive is identical to the a90 supra 8hp50 gearing with its oem 3.15 final drive. the a90 is deep in the 8s and my 335i weight about 2540 lbs and makes close to 1000 wheel im hoping when i get the driveline and axles in sometime in the next few weeks its going to finally come together. ive been through a few built 6hp trans , kept breaking input shafts. car is going 8s at tx2k for sure. i almost went with the same swap you have im curious to see what our cars would do side by side.
@@ZeroTo60Tube The season is over for me now here in cold and snowing Michigan and I have a built motor with the largest twins ever made for our platform going on it. They are 1 out of 20 Twin 53/53 dual ceramic ball bearing MMPs 1000whp capable twins. I broke into the 6s on my second revision and 60-130 attempt on my stock motor and franken turbos but I am aiming to hit into the 4s with my new setup this winter.
This made it better. However i didnt realise how much power the motor was making at the time. I actually blew the motor and the trans up about month after this. But she making over 700whp when it did the trans.
@@ZeroTo60Tube pushing 650hp on my n55 running at 27psi with only the zip kit done to it zero slips. Never upgraded the solenoids. When I took the valve body apart found the little Circular puck pieces dead flat not holding any pressure. It’s been 15k miles and the car has 177k miles 🤞🏽
Awesome video! Released just on time. I've got a "newer" gen 2 zf6hp21 TCU along with a low mileage valvebody ready to retrofit into a pre 03/07 car after some maintenance. Can't wait to feel crisp shifts along with V3 instead of V2.1 of XHP.
I can still smell diff fluid around my house sometimes and I changed it about 3 months ago. No matter how clean you try to do these jobs it always ends up like some Japanese bukkake film.
I got problem, after changed oil transmission. It feel slipy, from 2nd to 3rd gear. Is it bad solenoid?or something else?. Hope u answer mate. *i've change oil atf 77 zf6
It could be anything in the trans. Sticky solenoid, oring/bush issue bleeding oil or worn clutches. If you didn’t have the problem before it may be something as simple as oil level. If you had it before the change. The only economical fix is the bridge seal.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i just changed the bridge seal, clean up the bodyvalve and oiled it according to zf6. now it's better. Thx for your advice. I worry the problem coming from not suitable oil
Mainly because i haven't seen the need for one personally. I know there are a lot of people that have issues at these power levels with the 6AT, but my 17T car never even started to play up at over 700hp and that was without even running the line pressure bump, so i am looking to see how this ones goes at around the 800hp mark. The HP28 is great if you are snapping shafts or if you have clutch slip issues. But realistically you shouldn't be having those issues if your 6at is in good nick.
@@ThisLaoGuy xHP all day long. Alpina tune is free if you have a laptop with winKFP setup. But the xHP flash is much much better. This car will be getting xHP before the power gets wound up.
Too bad Mitsubishi (I think that's who made the OEM turbos) didn't make the oem tubskis with V clamps on them like these. It would have made changing out the turbos So much easier. At least now if the guys want to change theirs out for something else they should be able to do it without pulling absolutely everything off. That is if it has a V clamp on the end of it to mate up. That's one way of promoting brand loyalty LOL.
You have to hand it to BMW it’s a cost vs chance of failure calculation that they nailed, these things last really well, well past the new car warranty period. I feel you need to give them a decent birthday every 10 or so years when they are in daily use and at least all the bits are cheap to replace. Not like a metal part that might last 50% longer and cost 3-4 times the price
@@ZeroTo60Tube your right I love my e90 n52. I believe I’m the 3rd owner and if that’s true I lucked out cause the first two owners took fantastic care of her. Until the person I got the car from had it sitting or they sold it to me as the bigger issuers were starting to show there ugly leaky seals… but all in all I can say that for them using so much plastic I can say that a lot less has gone wrong with my car then I was expecting. But again it goes back to treating the car with as much care as you’d want it to give you. 🤣. And to some that’s a funny thing to say but I can say from experience that every car I’ve ever owned and not just bmw. If you take care of them they will take care of you.
Thanks. I have a 428i 2014, it ran hot do ran hot due to low fluid. It shut down but did not cut back on. My transmission malfunction is on the dash. The main shift does turn. I change coils. Spark plug, cam shift sensor, starter, it will not shift in out of neutral. Do u know what's wrong.
i checked out a lot of vids on 6AT issues/servicing etc when mine was on the way out....this is the best ive seen, well done man
Thanks man, yeah i went through days of research and i have done a few now. I tried to keep it simple and show what i think is the best place to start for most guys.
Years lter and I'm still going back and watching a LOT of your videos again. There's a lot of information and good questions in them. You've been the N54 Guru Andrew! No doubt about it!
Man i have been around the block when it comes to N54s. While my e92 is wiating on a few things for the motor setup. I have foolishly taken on a new S63 project. Now they are nearly worthless with a few issues, i want to take on that platform with the same ethos i took on the N54s..... We will see how it pans out.
ALPINA TCU flash is known to be extremely "slippy" feeling. Would not recommend to flash it on anything. Stage 2/3 XHP is the way to go.
I think it would have been nice to see the difference with just a stock TCU flash without any hardware changes.
What do you mean with slippy feeling?
Thank you for explaining the normal function of the solenoids and purpose of the seals. This has helped me determine my own car's clutch problems.
You should also repace separation plate from mechatronic and pressure accumulators, they are also common to be "beaten"
Good to know!
Have you seen on xhp they have added a drag mode , even higher line pressures and quicker shifts if using more than 40% throttle. Shifts are awesome.
great video! XHP told me they will be doing 15% off everything starting friday
Yes yes yes 🙌
My 6hp19 gearbox has 50k miles on it and it fluctuates in rpm when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throws the 4F89 error. I changed the sealing sleeve, oil and filter, I will analyze the solenoids.
I did a lot of research on this error code (4F89) and came to the conclusion that the problem is not with the gearbox itself, do you have any idea what else I can check?
did you figure out the problem ??
Nice update. My 335i has 193k miles (not km!) and trans has never been serviced. I feel like if it starts having issues, a DCT swap from a 335is would be in order!
WOW. thats impressive. I'd bet money a refresh would give it a new lease on life
@@ZeroTo60Tube hey , just want to get your opinion, my n45 is pushing around 450whp on hybrid turbo, the 6hp trans is slipping on 5th and even 6th gear, do you think a friction plate rebuild is needed? or we just a solenoid and sleeve service will do ?
@@carsonwong Possibly, however my understanding is lack of oil pressure is what causes the frictions to wear on most cars. It really luck of the draw with older trans.
@@carsonwonglmk what you did im experiencing the same issues rn I think I’m just making to much power for a stock trans, haven’t dyno’d but I’d think it’s around 500whp
Min 2011 345 fluid ran low and I wasn’t able to drive . Shop soda was down two about two quarts they changed fluid and filter was drives ke but still sloppy between 3/4 gear . We changed sleeves next but still same… I’m so sad is there next step? Solenoids?
The car only has mhd s1. I’m blown away after all this so far still says slips a little between 3/4 , car wasn’t raced and had a light duty life since 10k mile
Ownership
Could I have damaged the transmission from running to long on low fluid ?
Shopmsays still gets transmission malfunction light
Great Video, looking forward to doing this to my car during the Christmas break!
Man it makes it feel so much better. Totally worth the atf shower you get through the process.
Shoulda got a zegg Motorsport pan just got it on mine and shifts so nice now and quality is insane
How does a pan effect shift quality?
@@ZeroTo60Tube yea when i did mine i put a nice furrry dice hanging from the mirror swear its like ive got 9 gears now ,well INSANE
I have 330i, shifting from 2-3 is taking long and finally a big jerk and that happens only when i exceleration. If I'm not excelerating it will change smoothly.
Previously I have refilled the trans fluid. I did not change anything.
What could that be
Yup. Thank you. I understand a hell of a lot more now.
You should have lubed up those solenoid O-Rings! Never go in dry
Wise words..... sorry i missed this only 12 months late
I'd suggest getting a low mileage replacement transmission these solenoids clutchpacks and seals can cost as much as a new transmission
THIS VIDEO WAS AMAZING! thank you so much this helped me so much. Those solenoid 0 rings should probably be lubed as well before install but pretty sure they come lubed
PSA I had same flare shifts on two separate zf6hp21x transmissions and nothing fixed it seals, new flushed LG6, new pan, not even a zip kit fixed it. Replacing the E-clutch bushings fix it. I touched nothing else only the E-clutch bushings and new E frictions (because they where worn) it was not hard to open it up and took no special tools just time consuming.
Thats unfortunately it had worn the bushings. Obviously it will happen if the trans is abused enough.
Has anybody had an issue where 6hp21 transmission starts randomly changing gears from m1-m6 while in Drive. When this happens even when i put in sport/manual mode it doesnt change gear if i want to. When its working ok and showing Drive while in Drive I can normally go to sport and change gears. Ive changed seals, solenoids oil didn't solve the problem.
I don't see the link to the proper ZF relearn procedure that takes a bout 40 minutes. Can you share please??
Sorry dude, i dont have a link. This was such an old video.
I have a question for you My question to you is so if I put my foot on the break when I warmed up the car and when I engaged into drive it will think it's going forward while I'm holding on the break that's the same thing in rear when I go in reverse like a force instead of just pressing on the gas pedal and then go can that be because of the solenoid almost as if it's slippage
Hi bro., I changed my transmission to another one just like the previous one (6HP21), But now I don't see the changes on the display and the paddle shifters don't work, is one BMW 135! N54 2010, thanks and very good day bro... Regards
It will be a coding issue.
I have this same issue on my 2010 320i how do I sort it out. These are the codes I got from scanning.
1.CF1D No Messages From DSC, Receiver DKG/EGS, Transmitter RDC/DSC Current
2.CF1C EGS: No Messages From Engine Control Current
3.581A EGS: Signal Fault, Wheel Circumferential Velocity Front Left From DSC Current
4.581B EGS: Signal Fault, Wheel Circumferential Velocity Front Right From DSC Current
My 6hp26 struggles to change gear when flooring it can be on max rpm for 1-2sec before changing gear can it be the solenoids greatful for an answer.. hopefully idont have to change the whole gearbox
I have the 6HP21 on a N47 diesel. Sometimes I'm getting harder shifts 2-3 and 4-5. One day the gearbox drives like butter and two days later you can feel that it shifts with a slight delay and kicks. Done an oil change, sleeves and valve body seal (plate)
xHP Stage 3 flashed. The more I drive the less you can feel those issues so I don't think it's something mechanical because adaptation values are good and the oil was pretty clean 😢
Did you solve it ? I got the same problems on the same car/engine. I was thinking about changing the solenoids, sleeves, oil etc, but I m afraid of spending money for nothing and other thing being the problem.. Waiting for your answer ✌️
I have a bmw e91 330D Automatic. The problem i have is that it works perfectly on all gears exept 6th, its like it loose power even in manual mode. I changed the solenoids oil and pan but didnt help, i have checked with a computer but does not show any fault codes. Please help!
Which website/brand is a good choice for the seals? Im in Canada and the few places at offer seals just have the figure 8 one not the tubes
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🙌🏿Love this and how detailed it is Man. Team N54
I’m having a issue with my zf box it doesn’t hold full boost the car jumps from m4 to s6 then have codes cd99 cd9e cd9d cdb0, could this be caused by the seals?? Thank you
What is your take on using Lifeguard fluid V non-Lifeguard fluids. . ?
Hi ..the same kit can i buy from ebay and you know if its the same kit for mg Bmw x5 e53 with 6hp gearbox ??or its diferent kit ??
how much oil actually comes out when you remove the plug ,did mine and only 2litres came out . is that normal? asking coz ive only had car few months and looks like might of have a small oil leek but over a long time , so im at a bit of a loss , how much typically stays in the box some peeps say about a third . ?????
Hi , please can you help me i am bough BMW E 65 740 i 2007 original 160.000 km all ,last service in transmission do previous owner on 95.000 km problem is automatic transmission hard shifting .What need to do ,thanks.
what size sleeves did you use? I have the same exact transmission but FCPeuro no longer has a sleeve kit for the transmission and just sells each one separately. Not sure if it’s one of each or multiple of a certain size. Thank you!
thank you very much ...could you please tell me how an where you get the geniune parts from..thanks.
Fcp euro from memory.
Hi zero to 60 my car had problems when I kickdown the car got hipcup can you help me out
You may need fix mechatronic. Is plenty of small rubber springs inside wchid can be flat and not closing properly
Absolutely a possibility, but not something I see a lot of. Or generally if the internals are shagged the box will be throwing errors.
i have xhp stage 3 on atm do i need to flash back to stock before i do the adaptation procedure?
I am bought BMW 740 i E 65 2007 car got all service 160.000 km original ,last servic automatic do on 97.000 km problem car hard shifting what is problem thanks.
Great video, buddy and I swap his solenoids and now the car thinks its in drive and won't start any recommendations thanks in advance
Dustin I am so sorry I missed this comment. It will likely be the shift selector sensor in the box. Just needs to be lined up with the fork as the mechatronics goes back in
@@ZeroTo60Tube we lined it up with the part that slides. Is it supposed to be all the way towards the front ?
Also thanks for the response
@@wickedclwn05 It had a fork like part that lines up with the end of the rod. See the top middle of this photo. The fork is on the other side of the rod. s32667.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/TD200709_ShiftPointers_02.jpg
@@ZeroTo60Tube so the plunger should be slide to towards the solenoids?
Are the valve body solenoids really worth replacing if the car has been shifting fine? Just did this service but only did the seals, adapter plug, and fluid/filter.
From experience, yes. But only if you are chasing acceleration numbers or racing. They control shift times which is a big deal for these things.
Is there a shift lever solenoid in the ZF6HP for a 2007 e92 335i RWD besides the ones on the valve body? Reason I ask is my car abruptly decided it won't go into drive or reverse...usually you lose one before the other goes shortly after but not at the same time without warning.
I've already verified the pump is working because I get line pressure at the cooler...There's definitely enough (lifeguard 6) fluid in it as I've already verified when I swapped the valve body with a known good unit from my parts car along with new genuine solenoids and new seals all around...which also didn't fix my issue.
It for some reason moves in neutral at about 3000 RPM (I didn't try this for very long).
Clutches are only 15000km old and I found almost 0 material on the magnets when I dropped the pan to swap the valve body.
While I do have a spare I'd prefer not to drop the trans to swap the torque converter if I don't have to as I'm working on jackstands and don't have a lift.
Could be an oil pressure problem based on what you are describing. What ever it is, it will be an internal issue in the box. Please update this comment when you find out what it is.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Figured it out. I was checking the line pressure before the cooler like an idiot and not after (at the cooler outlet).
Turned out the cooler was clogged with clutch material likely from before I had the new packs put in which prevented the pressure needed to engage the gears.
Been meaning to upgrade anyways so I switched to a stand alone BMS air cooled unit that sits in driver side wheel well just like the engine oil cooler does on the other side...more work than I felt like doing but now it's flawless.
Doesn't explain why I could rev it to 3000 in neutral and make the car crawl...but It's not doing that anymore and shifts better than brand new with xHP Stage 4 flashed.
I recently did this exact same maintenance on my 6AT, solenoids and all. I reset the adaptions as well, and downloaded the re-learning instructions from FCP - they're a bit daunting to be honest,. I'm just curious about how you went about doing the re-learning with the Vargas car here? I live about 150 km up the coast from LA, and the terrain here is hilly! There aren't many open stretches of level roadway, and the only freeway 'round here (the 101) is bustling most hours of the day and conspicuously patrolled by local PD at night. Unfortunately there aren't any nearby raceways either. As a workaround, I just took my 135i out for several gentle drives around town, hoping the TCM will learn organically. Is that realistic?
Look don't tell anyone, but back in the day when i did my ZF6 in the x5 in 2018 and my zf6 in the 17t car in 2019. I did the legit proper learning process, every god damn step to a tee, it takes ages and you really have to do it at night and a decent road. Now I just do 5-10 light accelerations in d, or until its shifting right at say 25% throttle. Then the same at 50%, then the same at 75%. I come to a stop after every acceleration. If i find it flaring on a particular shift i will keep doing it until it's smooth. Then i do sports mode at 50%, 75% and 100% throttle and then just do manual mode at 75% and 100% thottle for the manual mode, i dont bother coming to a stop just do a decent pull thought 1st to 4th. After that i come to a complete stop and go reverse for 2-3 seconds back to N about 5 times, then the same for D. I will also do some short shift in manual mode at wot. Basically put the trans through the conditions i drive it. However you have to do that light load learning in d mode first.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Cheers for confiding that little pearl! I've taken note, and with the forecast for brilliant weather this holiday weekend, will go out and follow your method precisely. Man what a relief - that's been bugging me. Thank you so much!
i'm wondering if those adaptation values had changed rapidly, or not at all... especially that A clutch ?
I will get ista on it today and re-check
So just checked it again, took the car for another drive this morning. Reset adaptations in MHD for vanos, octane and a few other things. Car is driving better again. Clutch fill pressures are A:5.0, B:18.0, C:7.0, D:18.0, E:0.0 all rapid fill times are currently 0.0. So huge change from prior to doing the maintenance. Super happy with how its driving this morning.
I have a 6AT n54 and I have no idea how to launch it, it would be good to learn more about that.
There is no set way for every car. Different tyres, different power levels and different road surfaces will all require a different technique. However get yourself a draggy and get experimenting. You can set the dragy up to measure your 60ft times on every launch and the data you get from that will be invaluable.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply!
Hello colleagues, has anyone solved error 4E90 in automatic transmission 6hp21?
So is it necessary to do adaptation after solenoid replacement? If so can it be done through MHD or ProTool?? Thanks
Not sure about protool, but I believe it can. Definitely worth doing in my eyes.
Hi again! This shit is exectly happing on my gearbox right now while 1-2-3 shifting! yes the same crap! I changed oil and those glasses and black rabber tubes and socket, and pan with filter, but solenoids left the old. Now I need again buy new oil and everything else, also I saw that somebody changes mechatronic gasket and metal balls or something.
Do you have video where you flash xhp after this repairment? Do you feel the change and power of xhp flash then?
Really instructive video! Btw do you have any N54 mechanics you recommend in Brisbane? I’m trying to get my maintenance done for stage 2
It’s really hard to recommend someone. The only guy I know we’ll enough in the entire bris area is Dan from simply tuning. But he is a specialist for going fast and you will be paying a lot of money for maintenance that could be done at a cheaper rate.
I know of a lot of shops in bris that say they specialise in euros. I don’t know of any that are actually good at it when the cars get a bit of age on them. The specialists are great for servicing and modding new ish cars but don’t have the experience with older stuff, so you pay through your teeth.
Can recommend a mate up here on the coast. Shoot me an email if you want his contact details.
@@ZeroTo60Tube you are absolutely right Andrew I’m not entirely sure any euro specialist in Brisbane are N54 specialist.
One mechanic in Newmarket who I got the car analysed from asked me to sell the car due to a few oil leaks. I asked him to send me a quote for the repairs and he still has not. Which has me worried!
Nevertheless, I’ve sent an email through to your gmail account. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks heaps!
How do I get ista?Cant find how to do it anywhere
I got a bmw e90 2006 and everytime I come to a complete stop it jerks back. Is it time for me to do this maintenance on my car? Or is it something else causing this? Can’t find the solution to this yet
I've seen that with dirty oil. I would recomend change, oil pan, seals etc
Why is your engine temperature 120C ? is that suppose to be arround 90C ? Thanks
No, oil temp around that 110-125 normal on these things. Keep in mind its oil temp.
bmw 335i 2008 car turns off putting it in drive after a transmission rebuilt
Do you know the cost of that?
Thats sounds like a potencial issue with converter. If it stalls the engine when you put it in drive the converter is not opening up like it shoud.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I really appreciate it because I reached out to the person who rebuild it he told that I need a new VALVE BODY & TCM just wanted to make sure before buying stuff that I don’t need
Where can I find (ideally for free) the ista or inpa software to reset adaptations?
Ive tried to follow a few forum guides and its never worked for me. But there a few DIY guides on forums to get it setup.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thanks I've decided I'm going to avoid the hassle and just buy ProTool and do it through there. Another quick question though, for the refill procedure could you just confirm that you 1. Fill it to overflow with engine off, 2. Start engine and fill to overflow, and then with engine still on 3. Go through gears and wait till trans fluid is at least 40 C before doing third and final fill to overflow? Thanks again.
@@jackvanhaverbeke1363 That is exactly how i fill them. It may also be worth checking it again after a drive.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I’ve been running xhp for almost 3 years now, I’m thinking of flashing back to stock before the install, then reflashing a tank or two of gas after I do the re learn procedures. Would you recommend that or just leaving it ?
i just put 17ts on my n54 and my transmission does not like it in 5th and 6th gear, might need a new transmission :( hopefully its something smaller like this though
Its worth trying this. However the more i learn, once they start to slip the damage is done.
I need to do this cause my 3-4th gear doesn’t like to shift properly. Shoots up in rpm’s trying to catch 4th. I’m extremely scared cause I heard shifting gets worse after doing this job. And having to reset adaptations and all that 😩😩😩😩
Clutch Pack E is gone on your transmission. You'll need a rebuild or swap in a used trans. Happened to me and I completely lost the ability to shift into gears 4-6. Keep an eye on your transmission temps. I was quoted 4500$ for a transmission rebuild. Used trans swap will run like 1300$ for labor and trans oil and rear main seal. Shop sourced me a trans for $1400 so I could get a warranty out of it. I'm stage 2+ 93oct. I'd say being tuned really made the issue worse. Stock power levels the trans was fine
FYI I also replaced the solenoids and gaskets and did new filter and oil before clutch E blew. It felt better but it only delayed the inevitable.
Might be a stupid question but what OBD adapter are you using with ISTA+? Is it the ethernet type?
It’s a BMRetrofit usb.
My 6AT is flashed with the alpina flash as well, and it definitely shifts better than this. At least it feels a LOT snappier.
Could be something to do with the ATF BMV you used. That fluid cost me a 5HP once so I stayed the hell away from it since lmao. I did the sleeves and the square gasket, along with filter/pan combo and fluid, but instead used OEM ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid instead. Maybe worth a try?
In any case, video was great! :D
Absolutely not the atf is amazing. Used it in my old 6at, which is still the only 6at I am aware of that snaps axles.
However can you link to a video of yours going through the gears in different modes pls. Keen to see what it’s like. Also what dme flash do you have?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Heyyo, I'll take a video and message you with it. Currently running MHD Stage 1 as well.
@@TIPh0enix Cheers man! Just post a new comment wiht a video link, it will be the quickest way to get it in my eyes. The messages can sometime build up a little..... :S or a lot.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Haha understood. Please ignore the parkinsons spec recording, not a seasoned YT veteran lmaoo
Here you go man:
ruclips.net/video/5b1P2R4oWaU/видео.html
Excellent explanation. Thank you
Great job. Btw does this car have #12 injectors? Dutch regards, Nico.
It doesn’t. But we have some ready to go.
I should add to that. I want to see how it behaves on the ones in. See if they are a problem or you can away with older injectors when you have port injection.
Can I do this for a E92 328ix
Going for 340 or better whp.
Prepping for ess supercharger
You can. But I would look at selling the car and swapping to a n54. Will be cheaper in the long run and twice as fast.
Does the car need to be in Neutral or Park when removing the mechatronic unit?
Doesnt matter, you just have to line the shift rod up when you put it back together.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thank you.
New turbo unboxing, have been looking forward to that!! Would you consider going for a Sutphin tune rather than buying the xHP maps?
I would, xhp destroyed my tranny aswell as quite a few of my friends that have it. 3rd and 4th gear get destroyed
I may end up with a sutfin tune. But like I said at the start of this series. I know what actually works and will be showcasing that first.
Can we get more content on the m5
@@derricknash4548 yes yes, more content on all the cars to come.
Great informative video! The step by step was a lot more clear than other peoples tbh, so good on you for that. However, I was curious that you didn't attempt to have the zip kit placed to tackle some of the faults with the transmission in the first place. The sonnax zip kit will fix most of the wear and tear inside the "mechatronics unit" and prolong the life of the unit as well as the crisp "like new" shifts. Curious to get your input on that! Otherwise, enjoyed watching through the whole thing.
Honestly its purely because i have never personally seen a trans that needs a zip kit. Thats all. Im sure they exist for a reason, just not seen it needed personally.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Depends on the mileage really. Most businesses that repair these transmissions appreciate the wear that occurs in the valve body over time, especially if the trans has not been oil/filter serviced appropriately. Many parts in the zip kit are designed to address those issues. Downside is that you will need to buy a new seperator plate as these ruin the gallery seals once removed, but they are cheap enough. BTW, a year later I paid $74 for 4 litres of Penrite fluid. And the ZF manual says the adaptions must be cleared and a relearn done if you change the soleniods. This is specific.
Hello, are adaptation and relearn mandatory if i want to change solenoids on my 6hp26 ? Thanks
That is not why the vehicle shifting like that the problem inside the valve body you’ll need to pull the valve body and change the shift accumulators
One thing I never hear about! How good are these stock transmissions? 500 600hp good?
A good condition trans will hold 800hp at the crank. Maybe more, if you have decent software on it. This one has been miss treated by previous owners. Like never serviced before 190,000ks, i still intend on pushing that 800hp figure through it. My other car was over 700hp and again poorly maintained trans, that never skipped a beat at over 700hp. But like in the video i did all this stuff to my other one too.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thanks for the information. Love the videos
Can I do this on F22 N20?
Being a f series you should have the zf8. Which is a much better box. The zf8 uses a seperate oil pump system which doesn’t have the pressure losses like the zf6……… yet. However even though the zF8 seems pretty good or at least we don’t know common failure points yet. It’s still worth doing a fluid change if you have modified the motor.
I believe in my case a fluid change is what I have to tackle
hi man, great video, can you maybe link the seals and solenoids in the description ( for us to buy them ) and follow your expert advice :D
Sorry for the late reply, had a lot on lately. They are on FCP euro, probs best place to get them in the states.
Good work Andrew 👍🏻 I like watching jobs like this
Hopefully someone sees this I did the same thing on my car yesterday now the wheels aren’t moving when the car is in drive or reverse is this due to low fluid?
Did you fix the issue? My car won’t come out of parking
Any ideas why my shifts would be extremely rough under boost? I’m running 22 lbs and if I shift with my foot with all the gas it’s a terrible experience, feels like it slips, rpms shoot up, haven’t tested if it’s every gear but something is definitely wrong. I’m running xHP stage 3 on sportive +
Have you done everything i showed in this vid?
@@ZeroTo60TubeI replace the fluid and filter about a month ago but no, didn’t replace the solenoids. When I’m just driving normally it shifts perfect, it’s just while in 3rd-4th gear at high boost
@@Sooners84Gaming Well get on to the solenoids and seals. Sounds like this video is just what you needed.
Yo! What turbos are u running now. My Chinese 17Ts blew. I just ordered Viv V3 19Ts.
You have the 6+6 or 11 blades?
Dude that’s a shame. Going to unbox the new turbskis today. DAW
@@Nick-wu5cl 6 blades, thats the upgraded version which these guys showed in video.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ohh hell yeah!
As per your video, one of your mate is running the viv v3s, how is it going? I will be pushing no mote than 21 psi boost. I got tune file from WedgePerformance
@@TCGTV98 the guys with the v3's is having fun, but there is something not right with the car, when we actually work it out we will share. Have a few ideas.
love this channel
👍 awesome video another banger
Thanks for a very informative video
Glad it was helpful!
The 6hp21 will not hold big torque for very long. Over 550-600wtq it starts the slip in between gears and eventually just starts getting worse and worse. I just recently swapped in the diesel transmission (6hp28) from the 335d as I was having slipping issues on 2 6hp21s @30psi. The 6hp28 in stock form is rated for double the torque and power than the 6hp21 from the factory and it is direct bolt on (with adapter plates) and exact same gear ratio as the 6hp21. Check out my latest video if you wanna see some more information on that as it was very successful and now I’m good for up to 1200ftlbs with rod Sutphin trans tune but good luck with yours man 🤙🏼
i just 8hp75 swapped mine. pure drivetrain solutions stage 2 8hp75 good for 1600ft lbs 5k rpm a90 supra torque converter with billet stator. 8hp75 with 3.31 final drive is identical to the a90 supra 8hp50 gearing with its oem 3.15 final drive. the a90 is deep in the 8s and my 335i weight about 2540 lbs and makes close to 1000 wheel im hoping when i get the driveline and axles in sometime in the next few weeks its going to finally come together. ive been through a few built 6hp trans , kept breaking input shafts. car is going 8s at tx2k for sure. i almost went with the same swap you have im curious to see what our cars would do side by side.
Hey man, been following your build. Keen to see some 5 second 60-130 times..... :P No excuses with 30psi and your trans now hehe!
@@ZeroTo60Tube The season is over for me now here in cold and snowing Michigan and I have a built motor with the largest twins ever made for our platform going on it. They are 1 out of 20 Twin 53/53 dual ceramic ball bearing MMPs 1000whp capable twins. I broke into the 6s on my second revision and 60-130 attempt on my stock motor and franken turbos but I am aiming to hit into the 4s with my new setup this winter.
@@N54GASM Any updates on the setup?
That is a Big improvement 👌 just needs XHP
You do a great job with those greasy fingers. Filming all of these hard projects ends up being a lot of work.
Enjoy!
Its for the love of the platform. I want people to be able to do this stuff themselves and not waste money on things they dont need.
Don’t forget a Rod sutphin trans tune
Top vid mate. Thank you
Having this exact problem with my 6hp21! Any update on if this solved the issue for good? Thanks!
This made it better. However i didnt realise how much power the motor was making at the time. I actually blew the motor and the trans up about month after this. But she making over 700whp when it did the trans.
Excellent , I learned a lot !
Glad it was helpful!
You should have did the zip kit .
Im yet to see a car thats needed a zip kit. However im sure if your trans is particularly bad they are wroth doing.
@@ZeroTo60Tube pushing 650hp on my n55 running at 27psi with only the zip kit done to it zero slips. Never upgraded the solenoids. When I took the valve body apart found the little Circular puck pieces dead flat not holding any pressure. It’s been 15k miles and the car has 177k miles 🤞🏽
100% doing this refurb to mine asap. Turbo's arrived??!!??!! hell yes!
I've put some updated info in the Zeroto60 G chat about the adaptations. Man it makes a big difference.
Awesome video! Released just on time. I've got a "newer" gen 2 zf6hp21 TCU along with a low mileage valvebody ready to retrofit into a pre 03/07 car after some maintenance. Can't wait to feel crisp shifts along with V3 instead of V2.1 of XHP.
How did retrofit work out.
@@BimmerMafia It was well worth it. Car shifted great with the low mileage valvebody and v3 tune. I would definitely do it again.
I can still smell diff fluid around my house sometimes and I changed it about 3 months ago. No matter how clean you try to do these jobs it always ends up like some Japanese bukkake film.
Lol, i can't missed this comment! Did have laugh 12 months on
So Pretty and clean!
AMAZING!!!!
I got problem, after changed oil transmission. It feel slipy, from 2nd to 3rd gear. Is it bad solenoid?or something else?. Hope u answer mate.
*i've change oil atf 77 zf6
It could be anything in the trans. Sticky solenoid, oring/bush issue bleeding oil or worn clutches.
If you didn’t have the problem before it may be something as simple as oil level. If you had it before the change. The only economical fix is the bridge seal.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i just changed the bridge seal, clean up the bodyvalve and oiled it according to zf6. now it's better. Thx for your advice. I worry the problem coming from not suitable oil
why not just drop in a 6hp28?
Mainly because i haven't seen the need for one personally. I know there are a lot of people that have issues at these power levels with the 6AT, but my 17T car never even started to play up at over 700hp and that was without even running the line pressure bump, so i am looking to see how this ones goes at around the 800hp mark. The HP28 is great if you are snapping shafts or if you have clutch slip issues. But realistically you shouldn't be having those issues if your 6at is in good nick.
why does my car show DS instead of D1 D2 D3?
Alpina and xHP flashed transmissions display the actual gear you are in. its brilliant.
@@ZeroTo60Tube which would you recommend?
@@ThisLaoGuy xHP all day long. Alpina tune is free if you have a laptop with winKFP setup. But the xHP flash is much much better. This car will be getting xHP before the power gets wound up.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thank you.
I want a car lift for Christmas
What's a mechanic gonna charge you for that? They charge enough just for a trans service
If you supply the parts it should be 3-4 hours labour, plus the relearn process.
Lucky First
nice😎
Too bad Mitsubishi (I think that's who made the OEM turbos) didn't make the oem tubskis with V clamps on them like these. It would have made changing out the turbos So much easier. At least now if the guys want to change theirs out for something else they should be able to do it without pulling absolutely everything off. That is if it has a V clamp on the end of it to mate up. That's one way of promoting brand loyalty LOL.
Bro do you have any number I want to call you thanks I have two problems with my car BMW 335i Twin turbo 2008
I’m still just mind blown that bmw would use so much plastic for our engines. 🤦🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️😳😳🙄
Materials engineering and composite materials are extremely robust with huge weight and manufacturing benefits. It’s not a downgrade!
You have to hand it to BMW it’s a cost vs chance of failure calculation that they nailed, these things last really well, well past the new car warranty period. I feel you need to give them a decent birthday every 10 or so years when they are in daily use and at least all the bits are cheap to replace. Not like a metal part that might last 50% longer and cost 3-4 times the price
@@ZeroTo60Tube your right I love my e90 n52. I believe I’m the 3rd owner and if that’s true I lucked out cause the first two owners took fantastic care of her. Until the person I got the car from had it sitting or they sold it to me as the bigger issuers were starting to show there ugly leaky seals… but all in all I can say that for them using so much plastic I can say that a lot less has gone wrong with my car then I was expecting. But again it goes back to treating the car with as much care as you’d want it to give you. 🤣. And to some that’s a funny thing to say but I can say from experience that every car I’ve ever owned and not just bmw. If you take care of them they will take care of you.
Sounds more like a worn clutch pack
And what it is that causes the clutches to slip?
Thanks. I have a 428i 2014, it ran hot do ran hot due to low fluid. It shut down but did not cut back on. My transmission malfunction is on the dash. The main shift does turn. I change coils. Spark plug, cam shift sensor, starter, it will not shift in out of neutral. Do u know what's wrong.
Im sorry no, not sure. I havent done much with f series cars.