I've done this job too. It's not as bad as it looks. Getting the new Mechatronic sleeve pressed in far enough for the plastic locking tab to engage was the only part I struggled with: I was afraid of breaking the plastic tab. One additional step I included was to replace the four round tubular seals, as they can also go hard and allow fluid pressure to leak between circuits. These tubes live in the transmission case and can be seen side-by-side at 15:21. You need a hook tool to pull them out, and they are different lengths, so exchange them one-by-one. Good job, Nathan! I have been following you for a few years now and I appreciate your deep dives into the BMWs, particularly the V10s.
I just finished doing this on my X5 E70 with a 6hp28X. I also split the valve body in half and replaced the separator plate and pressure accumulators/check valves with the upgraded sonnax kit. One thing I learnt is 6hp26 and 6hp28 solenoids and valve body internals ARE NOT interchangeable - the 6hp28 valve body was redesigned by ZF and even though they look similar they are different. I was also advised by Ericsons who specialise in these rebuilds to NOT reset adaptations unless you are doing a full rebuild of the transmission. Great video Nathan thanks for sharing 👍
Just did this on my E70 X5. Can confirm it’s messy. Wasn’t horrible but laying on my back. Been a week or so and driving and shifting fine. See how I made out.
I watched your video as well as Nathan's George to help me do mine. Hat off to both of you for sharing your knowledge. Below are my comments to Nathan from finishing the job in my 07 E70 today : I just finished doing this on my X5 E70 with a 6hp28X. I also split the valve body in half and replaced the separator plate and pressure accumulators/check valves with the upgraded sonnax kit. One thing I learnt is 6hp26 and 6hp28 solenoids and valve body internals ARE NOT interchangeable - the 6hp28 valve body was redesigned by ZF and even though they look similar they are different. I was also advised by Ericsons who specialise in these rebuilds to NOT reset adaptations unless you are doing a full rebuild of the transmission. Great video Nathan thanks for sharing 👍
Smearing transmission assembly lube on both the mechatronic sleeve housing and the connector makes it so much easier to get it back in. Assembly lube for transmissions is designed to dissolve and won't harm it
Agree, E clutch is a common problem on these. Often you get a cracked e-drum or the bushings around the stator let go. If Nathan's problems persist might be a rebuild for Gary Feraro and his RUclips channel
Great job. I'm looking into a 2004 645ci and it's in limp mode for the transmission I guess. Starts up and will run all the way to 80+ mph in D but won't shift. The iDrive screen is out. Idk what's wrong with it.
Hello there, what could be the problem when there is a slight jump or going in “neutral feel like” while going to a complete stop on a 2005 bmw x5 4.4 ? Thanks a million
Try Ericsons in the USA for genuine ZF parts - the team is very helpful. I am in Australia and they were great to deal with every step of the way. Not the cheapest but you get what you pay for
Yes agree because the additive pack in the fluid (which contains all the goodies for that transmission) is proprietary to ZF (patented). The other fluids say they are "suitable" or "recommended" but they never say they "meet" ZF specification because their fluid does not meet it. Check out automotive professor Kelly on his RUclips channel 'Weber Auto' and his series on the history of automatic transmission fluid
Hey Nathan, I have a 4.6is with 130k. I've been getting intermittent torque converter solenoid pressure too low faults. Car shifts just fine. Fluid is original. I'm reluctant to change the fluid as I'm afraid it could make the symptoms worse or cause slipping. What are your thoughts? Appreciate all of the BMW content. It's been very educational for me over the years. Cheers!
A rebuild of your valve body might do the trick. The pressure accumulators wear out and result in poor shifting and slippage from not enough hydraulic pressure being applied to your clutch packs. Not doing anything will get you a little more time but the transmission will eventually need a full rebuild when you could have gotten away with rebuilding the valve body. Lots of different views on this but good luck either way. Cheers Jake
@@NathansBMWWorkshop When scanned with ISTA, the fault reads out as torque converter lockup performance too low . Generic OBD2 Fault is the torque converter solenoid pressure too low. I'll look into your advice. All of the BMW master techs I work with at my shop are advising me to not change the fluid for fear of symptoms worsening. Thanks again for the reply and advice Nathan!
I did the job yesterday! The 2007 750Li shifts like when I bought it 10 years ago, smooth.. However, it has a warning now that says it is not in park when I put it in park. I have confirmed that it does, in fact, go into park, but it isn't sensing that it is in park. I am presuming that a sensor didn't get connected properly. I will be opening it back up and taking a look but any advice on where I should look first would be very appreciated!
Hey, late comment but I just ran into this same problem with my 550i. Turns out i had to adjust the shift cable at the transmission. When I dropped the back of the trans to get the mechatronics sleeve, the cable loosened into the wrong position. Mine was bad though, triggered code p0706 for range sensor and wouldnt start.
How do I find the part number to my transmission? I got a 6HP26Z in a 335d e92. Ive tried realoem but they dont even show the solenoids for some reason
At this mileage there's no right answer. If you do change the fluid or valve body be prepared to do a full rebuild if it goes pear shaped. Or you could let a tad of fluid out the drain plug into a cup. If the fluid is black, smells burnt and sandy particles in it that is clutch pack material meaning you will need a full rebuild. Lots of different views on this but good luck either way
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Hello, what might be the reason for very high pressure of Clutch E (500mbar), I have no shift issues on my BMW X3 2007. Thanks in advance
Can solenoids not trigger a code and still be bad? I mean, I changed in my E90 the transmission fluid, and filter, put new mechatronic seals (all) in and replaced the TQ with a refurbished one but the gearbox still acts funky in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, it slips and something vibrates in there a bit more than I like and in 4th when cruising at 1500 rpm at 45 mph the car jolts ever so slightly, like something is pushing it from behind. Car has 100, 000 miles. Any advice is more than welcome.
Is there a reset procedure after installing sleeves and solenoids I did this on e90 335i and car would shift fine go into all gear but would not shift into sport and wouldn’t switch in manual mode it was working fine before the service and I ended up totaling the car before I could ever fix that problem that was almost two years later
So this is pretty much the same transmission as the E38’s have, this being 6spd and E38’s being 5spd? Of my BMW’s, one is a very well cared for 740i. Curious to know how well this translates between the two?
Hi if I can ask you is it the same with bmw x5 2001 4.4i 5hp zf gearbox my gearbox is kicking when gets worm when I'm slowing down and in to first gear is got full service on a gearbox oil, filter and gasket and new pan bolts
I have a question regarding my BMW X3 the warning lights popup when I was driving abs, brake and 4x4 I lost speedometer gauge and the code code P1774 it won’t clear with the scanner, do you have any idea where to look?
very nice.. i can just S M E L L the weird trans fluid smells this Whole damn time.. mineral oily.. sweet weird dry oil.. But cool vid. And it worked.. nice.
The locking mechanism on the black connector plug (that plugs into the mechatronic sleeve/valve body), does it turn freely when it's not properly seated? or does it have to be seated first before it's able to turn? I'm trying to put it back together, and the connector plug won't lock back down
@@mule666 lol no I think I've just messed with these ZF transmissions so much between 6 different cars we've had over the last few years that it doesn't seem to smell nearly as bad as other people make it out to be.
I love your videos. This video not so much. Terrible lighting. I know you can do better. The ZF 6 HP requires it be filled between 30-40 Centigrade. No torque specs for any fasteners. You know this but failed to mention it.
Between 30 - 50 grade Celsius is stated by ZF. Torque specs: for pan bolts is 10 Nm, 12 if pan is steel, for mechatronic bolts 8 Nm, for solenoid support thing is 6 Nm. Drain plug is 10 Nm, fill plug is 30 - 35 Nm.
Good day sir love the videos and DIY projects!! i have a 2003 530i with the ZF transmission and the car has 181k on it and its shifting feels weird so I'm going to attempt fluid, filter and solenoid change! I'm just not sure on the part number for the transmission solenoids! could you possibly help? my vin number is WBADT634X3CK45706, thank you in advance
I've done this job too. It's not as bad as it looks. Getting the new Mechatronic sleeve pressed in far enough for the plastic locking tab to engage was the only part I struggled with: I was afraid of breaking the plastic tab.
One additional step I included was to replace the four round tubular seals, as they can also go hard and allow fluid pressure to leak between circuits. These tubes live in the transmission case and can be seen side-by-side at 15:21. You need a hook tool to pull them out, and they are different lengths, so exchange them one-by-one.
Good job, Nathan! I have been following you for a few years now and I appreciate your deep dives into the BMWs, particularly the V10s.
Yes, definitely replace the round tube seals while you are in there, very common that they go bad and you loose oil pressure leading to clutch slip 🙂
i had 2 new sleeve chip both of them trying to force them for a hour put the old one back in it went in easy with no problem
I just finished doing this on my X5 E70 with a 6hp28X. I also split the valve body in half and replaced the separator plate and pressure accumulators/check valves with the upgraded sonnax kit. One thing I learnt is 6hp26 and 6hp28 solenoids and valve body internals ARE NOT interchangeable - the 6hp28 valve body was redesigned by ZF and even though they look similar they are different. I was also advised by Ericsons who specialise in these rebuilds to NOT reset adaptations unless you are doing a full rebuild of the transmission. Great video Nathan thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for the info. What were the symptoms for the bad solenoids?
Just did this on my E70 X5. Can confirm it’s messy. Wasn’t horrible but laying on my back. Been a week or so and driving and shifting fine. See how I made out.
I just did one of these the other day along with the transfer case and rear diff lying in my driveway.. Can't wait to have a 2 post lift!
I watched your video as well as Nathan's George to help me do mine. Hat off to both of you for sharing your knowledge. Below are my comments to Nathan from finishing the job in my 07 E70 today : I just finished doing this on my X5 E70 with a 6hp28X. I also split the valve body in half and replaced the separator plate and pressure accumulators/check valves with the upgraded sonnax kit. One thing I learnt is 6hp26 and 6hp28 solenoids and valve body internals ARE NOT interchangeable - the 6hp28 valve body was redesigned by ZF and even though they look similar they are different. I was also advised by Ericsons who specialise in these rebuilds to NOT reset adaptations unless you are doing a full rebuild of the transmission. Great video Nathan thanks for sharing 👍
Everything is harder laying on your back working while trans fluid is running i your face
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Haha you can definitely say that again!
Smearing transmission assembly lube on both the mechatronic sleeve housing and the connector makes it so much easier to get it back in. Assembly lube for transmissions is designed to dissolve and won't harm it
Yes great lube,specially designed for transmission assembly,and works good on other things too!
Did this on my back two weeks ago on my 530xi, with a lift this job is a lot easier
3-4 gear change problems on the ZF is usually clutch pack E. Your more knowledgeable than I am tho.
It will be if a person keeps driving it with the solenoid messing up, this issue was random and it would kick sometimes
@@NathansBMWWorkshop True. Transmission is already malfunctioning, might as well try.
Agree, E clutch is a common problem on these. Often you get a cracked e-drum or the bushings around the stator let go. If Nathan's problems persist might be a rebuild for Gary Feraro and his RUclips channel
What are the symptoms of bad clutch E and how many miles can I drive with bad solenoids?
How do you know what bolts the mechatronic is hold onto the gearbox??
Great job. I'm looking into a 2004 645ci and it's in limp mode for the transmission I guess. Starts up and will run all the way to 80+ mph in D but won't shift. The iDrive screen is out. Idk what's wrong with it.
Hello there, what could be the problem when there is a slight jump or going in “neutral feel like” while going to a complete stop on a 2005 bmw x5 4.4 ? Thanks a million
This video may be helpful if my 4.8is ever starts acting up. Where did you source the reman solenoids?
Ebay
@@NathansBMWWorkshop THanks! I'm seeing them for about $105 reman. Rockauto has a new ZF set for $288.
Try Ericsons in the USA for genuine ZF parts - the team is very helpful. I am in Australia and they were great to deal with every step of the way. Not the cheapest but you get what you pay for
@@baitse7676DONT BUY REMAN SOLENOIDS, they are horrible!
Are the 6hp19 and the 6hp21 solenoids the same? I see they sell 2 different types of
I've only ever used the genuine ZF fluid in these
Yes agree because the additive pack in the fluid (which contains all the goodies for that transmission) is proprietary to ZF (patented). The other fluids say they are "suitable" or "recommended" but they never say they "meet" ZF specification because their fluid does not meet it. Check out automotive professor Kelly on his RUclips channel 'Weber Auto' and his series on the history of automatic transmission fluid
History of auto trans fluid by professor Kelly: ruclips.net/video/aV-ri4rOHRI/видео.html
We have had tremendous luck on the higher milage units using the valvoline maxlife import
Hey Nathan, I have a 4.6is with 130k. I've been getting intermittent torque converter solenoid pressure too low faults. Car shifts just fine. Fluid is original. I'm reluctant to change the fluid as I'm afraid it could make the symptoms worse or cause slipping. What are your thoughts? Appreciate all of the BMW content. It's been very educational for me over the years. Cheers!
A rebuild of your valve body might do the trick. The pressure accumulators wear out and result in poor shifting and slippage from not enough hydraulic pressure being applied to your clutch packs. Not doing anything will get you a little more time but the transmission will eventually need a full rebuild when you could have gotten away with rebuilding the valve body. Lots of different views on this but good luck either way. Cheers Jake
Change , use the valvoline max life import , 90% change it will fix it, if you do nothing it will fail, change the seals also and replace the filter
@@NathansBMWWorkshop When scanned with ISTA, the fault reads out as torque converter lockup performance too low . Generic OBD2 Fault is the torque converter solenoid pressure too low. I'll look into your advice. All of the BMW master techs I work with at my shop are advising me to not change the fluid for fear of symptoms worsening. Thanks again for the reply and advice Nathan!
Hello, can you share the site where you bought the solenoids please. Thank you
Hi Nathan, do you service transmissions at a shop? If so, where's your shop at? City/state?
I did the job yesterday! The 2007 750Li shifts like when I bought it 10 years ago, smooth.. However, it has a warning now that says it is not in park when I put it in park. I have confirmed that it does, in fact, go into park, but it isn't sensing that it is in park. I am presuming that a sensor didn't get connected properly. I will be opening it back up and taking a look but any advice on where I should look first would be very appreciated!
Hey, late comment but I just ran into this same problem with my 550i. Turns out i had to adjust the shift cable at the transmission. When I dropped the back of the trans to get the mechatronics sleeve, the cable loosened into the wrong position. Mine was bad though, triggered code p0706 for range sensor and wouldnt start.
Soy de Mexico quisiera saber donde podría encontrar los selenoides para esa transmisión tengo un e60 530i
I’m having the same issues 3rd to 4th gear and pretty sure it’s my solenoids. But I’m super scared to do this job myself idk why lol
How do I find the part number to my transmission? I got a 6HP26Z in a 335d e92. Ive tried realoem but they dont even show the solenoids for some reason
Mine x3 2007 did 250 000 km. I nevernchanged trans fluid and i don't have any transsmision problems. Should i change trans fluid?
At this mileage there's no right answer. If you do change the fluid or valve body be prepared to do a full rebuild if it goes pear shaped. Or you could let a tad of fluid out the drain plug into a cup. If the fluid is black, smells burnt and sandy particles in it that is clutch pack material meaning you will need a full rebuild. Lots of different views on this but good luck either way
Drain and refill it, drive it 10 miles or so, drain it again and do the mechatronix seals and then replace the filter and refill
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Hello, what might be the reason for very high pressure of Clutch E (500mbar), I have no shift issues on my BMW X3 2007. Thanks in advance
Can you put the link where you ordered your parts?
Master my bmw x5 e53 4.4i. 2001. Don’t give reverse the rest work perfect and the fluid is no burn what can be ?
Can solenoids not trigger a code and still be bad? I mean, I changed in my E90 the transmission fluid, and filter, put new mechatronic seals (all) in and replaced the TQ with a refurbished one but the gearbox still acts funky in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, it slips and something vibrates in there a bit more than I like and in 4th when cruising at 1500 rpm at 45 mph the car jolts ever so slightly, like something is pushing it from behind. Car has 100, 000 miles. Any advice is more than welcome.
would changing the mechatronix unit from a 6hp26z to a 6hp28 work? I have a 6hp28 off of a 2011 750, I currently have a 2008 550i.
is it the same as in the x6m e71
Is there a reset procedure after installing sleeves and solenoids I did this on e90 335i and car would shift fine go into all gear but would not shift into sport and wouldn’t switch in manual mode it was working fine before the service and I ended up totaling the car before I could ever fix that problem that was almost two years later
Did you not reset the adaptions?
Could have been some damage to one of the pins on the mechanic connector?
So this is pretty much the same transmission as the E38’s have, this being 6spd and E38’s being 5spd? Of my BMW’s, one is a very well cared for 740i. Curious to know how well this translates between the two?
The 5hp19 dies not have the mechatronix unit
@@NathansBMWWorkshop It has the ZF5H24.
@@paperandmedals8316 ah my bad 6 cylinder e39 has 5hp19, same solenoids though , same operation
Hi if I can ask you is it the same with bmw x5 2001 4.4i 5hp zf gearbox my gearbox is kicking when gets worm when I'm slowing down and in to first gear is got full service on a gearbox oil, filter and gasket and new pan bolts
I have a question regarding my BMW X3 the warning lights popup when I was driving abs, brake and 4x4 I lost speedometer gauge and the code code P1774 it won’t clear with the scanner, do you have any idea where to look?
very nice.. i can just S M E L L the weird trans fluid smells this Whole damn time.. mineral oily.. sweet weird dry oil.. But cool vid. And it worked.. nice.
The locking mechanism on the black connector plug (that plugs into the mechatronic sleeve/valve body), does it turn freely when it's not properly seated? or does it have to be seated first before it's able to turn?
I'm trying to put it back together, and the connector plug won't lock back down
Is it weird that I can't smell the transmission oil?
You should change the diff oil if you can not smell anything then you know you have a problem
@@mule666 lol no I think I've just messed with these ZF transmissions so much between 6 different cars we've had over the last few years that it doesn't seem to smell nearly as bad as other people make it out to be.
Why do you always start your videos looking so bored and depressed, like someone is forcing you to do the videos.
I guess because thats matching how most viewers feel about having a borked transmission if they are looking for videos on doing jobs like this lol
FIRST!!! Lol
I love your videos. This video not so much. Terrible lighting. I know you can do better. The ZF 6 HP requires it be filled between 30-40 Centigrade. No torque specs for any fasteners. You know this but failed to mention it.
Between 30 - 50 grade Celsius is stated by ZF. Torque specs: for pan bolts is 10 Nm, 12 if pan is steel, for mechatronic bolts 8 Nm, for solenoid support thing is 6 Nm. Drain plug is 10 Nm, fill plug is 30 - 35 Nm.
Good day sir love the videos and DIY projects!! i have a 2003 530i with the ZF transmission and the car has 181k on it and its shifting feels weird so I'm going to attempt fluid, filter and solenoid change! I'm just not sure on the part number for the transmission solenoids! could you possibly help? my vin number is WBADT634X3CK45706, thank you in advance