See that before you begin the cluster pixel repair! BMW E39 E38 E53 detailed instruction guide
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Below is a list of the parts and tools we use personally in our facility:
✓Pixel Repair for BMW:
›Carbon cable - goo.gl/ysSLcK
›Silver Cable - goo.gl/twYvJ2
›LCD Display with silver cable attached - amzn.to/2PBVOEq
›Tool for MPG/economizer gauge pointer removal (only for MPG, doesn't work for other gauges) - amzn.to/2V0tZJO
›40w Soldering Iron with T-Tip - goo.gl/drCrwJ
›T-Tip for 30w Soldering Iron - goo.gl/p9ppYK
›Backlight Bulbs for the display - goo.gl/f1rvvy
›Pointer Motor for Fuel, Speedometer, RPM or Coolant temperature - goo.gl/hoV1EL
›Pointer Motor for MPG, L/100km or Oil Temperature - goo.gl/7dFjFj
✓Pixel Repair Parts for Audi:
›A4, A6, Allroad - goo.gl/Toa6U8
›TT - goo.gl/mhWUUu
✓Soldering equipment we personally use in our facility:
›Soldering station - amzn.to/2Es2aVL
›Soldering tip - amzn.to/2UFSITI
›Desoldering tool - amzn.to/2UBYtBT
›Fume extractor - amzn.to/2SN9yyi
›Leaded solder - amzn.to/2CaufOV
›Power supply - amzn.to/2PBHrjA
›Multimeter - amzn.to/2PDOGr4
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2024 and this is still BY FAR the BEST pixel repair video in the world. Getting ready to do the repair on my 1999 540iT E39, thank you for your hard work and dedication in making this video sir 🫡🙌 (also I loved the mandarin "cutie" sticker on the phone... I do the same thing with them😂😂)
I did exactly like in the video ( drill method) , I purchased the screen plus the strip and it works perfectly. Took a while but definitely was worth it.
I like that u don't take shortcuts. A really nice instructable, well done :-)
Points not mentioned but can help from what I learned getting it done correctly the first time.
What a pain in the ass project. Great video. Almost makes more sense to send the display cluster out.
Update: I finished the project and it worked the first time. Some notes that I wish I knew.
1. The + shaped black plastic pieces in the back that you turn are solid piece of plastic you are twisting. They don’t have much give. Turn it whatever direction is closest to line the + shapes up. He makes it look easy. Was a 1hr long attempt for me.
2. Make more use of the soldering iron then he does. Unless you have a tiny drill you’ll damn near destroy your cluster using a big drill. I melted the plastic and broke the pieces out. The drill for me was worthless. Don’t worry too much about making too big of a hole. It’s very well hidden when it’s all back together.
3. The “pins” he mentions in the videos are actually plastic clips. You need to depress than while pulling the rear cover off.
4. Cleaning the leads went easier when I soaked a cotton swab in acetone and left it to sit on the adhesive. Every cotton swab I used was soaked in acetone.
5. He takes the needle dials off. I can’t because I don’t have the tools. I took a 1 inch pile of napkins, three piles total to put the gauges on so not to damage them.
6. Lighting, lighting and more lights. Make sure your project is well lit. It makes much of the work easier. I used a magnifying glass and a light right above the ribbon and contacts to ensure they lined up. It worked!!
Go slow. This took me many hours to do. Literally 5hrs. If you screw anything up the alternative is packing pieces and sending them out.
try doing e34 with small low cluster display. it took me whole day to pinpoint unvisible zebra strips on the lcd against the naylon-like ribbon cable that attaches to the board. now I do it professionally, but that time it took to master it was hell
Another question- where did you find e34? I forgot when I saw alive e34 on the road last time.
I finally got around to replacing my cluster LCD. It's a bit of a pain to do without the proper tools and probably with the proper tools. 10/10 recommend getting the repair service instead... It took me about 5 hours. The older stepper motors with the black dots on the back are better in my opinion. I had a cluster from a 1995 e38 that I was able to take parts from. The cluster is somewhat different in that the redline is higher and the coolant temp gauge has a line in the middle to show the ideal operating temp, but the stepper motors are the same. The needles seemed easier to remove from the older cluster seeing as I was able to remove them without damaging the motors. Oh, and the black and white fuel economy stepper motors are the same as far as I can tell. I was able to pry the needles off of both.
After changing the LCD, I noticed the light to show if the mileage has been altered is lit. I'm not sure exactly what caused that. It may have always been on before but I couldn't tell because of the dead pixels. I changed the LCM when I first got the car and I never had it coded. I remember the mileage flashed to over 200k, so I turned the ignition off and on again and the mileage went back to 130k I've driven the car across the country a few times since then.
Best repair video out there, and I've reviewed most of them. Thanks for the methodical detail in taking folk through a board most don't encounter, and how to deal with it. Great that you showed with and without dial removal, as well as the hot iron. I fixed mine and it works. Thanks.
BTW question, I'm aware of the approach needed to remove the dials. Held the pins in taking them off. The gas dial was a bear and didn't budge, (so I had to drill the holes). I think I munched the stepper motor anyway.. okay pretty sure I did. Really appreciate greatly your showing how to replace it! Thought it had to be soldered, but it appears that its push pins .... much like the 3 pins on each side of the LCD housing? Is that correct (BMW E39)? If so, really happy about that and will replace it. (I didn't want to take up learning to solder on a board that otherwise works..... ).
In any event thanks so much for showing details that are very important in a variety of approaches...( maybe until you do one of these, the importance of those details won't be as apparent). Finally, if I had to do it over again (& I found you after I had the parts and had started), your prices are so reasonable, I would have just sent it to you to be done correctly the first time.... Your turn around was ultimately much quicker than it took me to adjust and then fiddle with the stepper, before getting it back in. Thanks again.
Hey, thanks for the kind words! Yes, no soldering is involved into the motor replacement. Being held and tight by the screws only. Make sure to keep the same motor orientation as the original motor, otherwise the replacement won't work properly.
You just changed my life thanx mate
This is the best e39 pixel video by far.
this video is gold. very detailed .thanx
Great video ! You've helped me so much with repairing cluster from E38. Also i've done terrible mistake, when i pulled out entire shaft with needle from motor :S But I've replaced it with a new one, also replaced the ribbon cable and it works like a charm ! Ehm, but one thing. I didn't glue it, just taped it in place with capton tape and applied good pressure with the body of lcd display. It holds and works as it should. I'm not sure how long it will last, but it works as it should ! Next time, I'll use soldering iron and glue it as i should ^^
Thank you for this great video! I’m about to tackle this on my 1997 E38 740iL and this is going to be very helpful while I repair the cluster.
A couple of comments... BMW E53 in Australia. The repair kit I was supplied does not require soldering. It relies on the contacts being clean and the rubber strips on each end of the cable when the display is assembled press the cable onto the contacts. This must be how a carbon cable is used. Only a silver cable pre-joined to the display can be soldered to the board. Also, my version of the cluster has a different backing to the gauges. It cannot be folded back to burn holes in the casing as it is about 2 mm thick. You would have to burn right through the black backing as well which would make a hell of a mess so this method cannot always be easily used.
Was it 4.8is by any chance with like m5 cluster?
@@HETPEZB It is a 2001 3.0i and the cluster may not be original. It had been removed before I got the car as there were no screws holding it in. The display is virtually unreadable...
I did the drill method and works just fine !! Excellent videoooooo!! Now I will sell this car once and for all
Lol :)
Absolutely amazing job!! Truly the best for the BMW cluster.
Tomorrow i will work on my cluster display by doing it drill method. I have it already sitting on the table and i hope it will go well. I know i have to be super careful. Thanks for your video
Did my display today the way you explain it. It took me close to two hours but it works great. Thank you for your explanatory video 🤗🤗🇵🇱🇵🇱
Sorted.
You clearly are "The Man " 😁
Anyone can talk; Dude's the Jedi Master of cluster repair & diagnosis. Some things in life can't be faked. The skill, knowledge & "casualness" of which he works (not to mention precision + detail) You don't have to be a rocket scientist to notice this man has done this a ridiculous amount of times & unquestionably KNOW'S what he is saying & doing! I had no idea how complex it was. Trust me; It's a Bimmer: I didin't expect it to be "easy". I also didin't expect it to be nearly as intricate as it was! AWESOME VIDEO!
what i can not get, is such detailed work has only 1.7 thousand likes? thank you very much for the thorough demo
'cause that so called master damaged the second pointer - clearly seen in the end of the vid.
Haruka, very curios about the timestamp of the damage problem.
Good Job! You covered all the problems we will encounter.
Best video I have watched on this repair so far. Thanks!
Minus the screamer in the background
it's with huge pleasure that i watched your video. great work :)
Wow I use a pencil eraser first followed by a piece of plain white printer paper to clean the contacts. Nice idea on the hot plastic drilling!
Amazing job! Professional
Awesome tutorial
You could use the self-test function of the cluster for the re-install of the analog indicators so you don't damage the fascia of the cluster by marking the original position of the indicator...
very well explained. excellent . Keep up your good work.
Thanks for the video, Did you try to change the led light from amber to white, if yes how? thanks
Perfect Work. I learn very much, thanks a lot.
Thanks a lot
Hey I was wondering if you have any details for making the test station (the thing with the wires that you plug in the test the cluster)? Thanks
Really good videos, Good tutorial. Thank's !?
Great video. Helped me so much. Thanks
You are KING !
Good guys, I've used them, very reasonable!
No no no, you’ve been paid to say that ))))
Very instructive video, thank you for this its going to help!
The whole system works fine. Just the fuel gauge is 4mm out from where it should be.
Using test 2 the gauge only swings to 3/4 tank
tip use an ink rubber to clean the contact strip you will be surprised!!!
Do you have a link to something like that? I’m not sure what exactly is it.
Tnks tnks
Nice tuto
Awesome tutorial, thanks. Only you haven't mentioned where to buy a needle remover tool, with blu handles, the one to grab the needle.
very good work
thank you for this perfect video and a lot of information you give me.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks well done.but could u please
tell me how Cable work to test cluster out of the car could u send wiring diagram for this purpose ... thanks again
Hadi from Iraq
Impresionante vídeo que calidad técnica , exelente
really good.thx for video.
Any other options besides photo paper ? Or if I have to buy a package or photo paper.. ...what's the least expensive ? Whomever is selling the repair kits with the silicone and the tools should include a few slivers of photo paper and bump the price of the kit by $0.50 or a buck. Is the silver ribbon cable pre-tinned with solder ? I'm trying to understand how merely applying heat to a cable adheres the cable to the board ?? I'm also wondering how the original cable was adhered to the board, since it just peels off and the "residue" cleans off with acetone.. [??] Would old solder residue clean off of the board with acetone ? Or was the original ribbon cable adhered by a different method ?
hi friend, ı purchased the ribbon cable from aliexpres help me please, this product is have paper backing, need to remove the paper ? or not directly soldering with paper. thanks for answer
I need the white box (the display mounts to) I broke 2 terminal connectors. And a cable and display for 1998 540i, e39, do you have those in stock? How much?
Очень хорошее видео. Но я так ждал как Вы покажите куда именно вставлять груглогубцы и как снять стрелку с расходомера. Не могли бы записать самый простой видео ролик?
С уважением.
Awesome video. Thank you.
amazing video
Hello, i remplace my 4 motor but needles are not move. Please what Can be the latter.
I have one question, I orded my self same soldering tool and ribbon cable with lcd (not from your company) and I tried to solder it just like in video,but ribbon cable just wont stick to the cluster ,is there diffrence between soldering cables and cables with just cello taping? Or im missing something?
would like to see a video or diagram on the power supply
this worked!!! but the LCD lighting is not very bright do you have a fix for that
please, where you connected the power supply, how you made the jacks, they are very helpful to prove before mounting on the car, which are power pins. thank you very much
I don’t have it handy, but simply google for bmw e39 cluster pinout and you’ll find the wiring.
the parts that are cut of the engine, what are they called? in the 27:53 minute because I want to buy them new to put them back in place .
can you please tell me how you made the connections to the power supply for the test?
Please tell me how can I repair
my bmw 525i 1991 dashboard. it
refusing to be (reset oil service)
l know that I must connect pin7 to
pin19. and i do all steps corectly.
and i checked the wires ther is no
problem with them. I think that the problem is with the dashboard.
please helpme.
Where can i find the music from this video? Its great 😍 Thanks for tutorial of course, my cluster will be like new ^^
Hi , guys in living in Brooklyn NY can someone please tell where to change my lcd from the cluster same model like one in the video
Hey great video but I seem to be having problems getting to the shift on the stepper motor and damage the spring and at $45.00 aud its getting expensive do you have any tips please
You can use drilling method.
Wow you are amazing! Wish you can fix my 2001 540 pixels. Where do you live? I’m in California, Los Angeles.
Hello, we are in NC.
My lcd has a green ribbon attached to it. Can I do the tape trick or I need to solder this one?
You need to ask your supplier.
what is the name of the part for the soldering iron? to glue it tight ?
I was wondering if your in the US I need gauges fix’d along with pixels how much will I have to donate
Yes,w e are in US in Illinois. Please use this link to get all the details about the repair cost and possible shipping cost - goo.gl/3ffuXj
hello. i need a replacement motor tachometeer for my BMW E39. were can i get one?
www.bestpixelrepair.com/stepper-motors-for-bmw/96-stepper-motor-for-bmw-instrument-cluster.html
very helpful video, could your please define the wiring diagram for the external power source?
I don’t have it handy but you can check WDS.
what the cut parts of the motor in the 27:53 minute are called
Maybe it's a different version, I have a 2002 E39, and I didn't have to drill and heat up the white plastic to make a hole to unscrew the screws. I only needed some screwdrivers to disassemble.
What kind of repair did you do?
Same pixel repair. I Turned the 5 plastic 'X's in the back as you did, then I had to unscrew about 6-8 torx screw from around the pointers, then remove the pointer (which was the hardest thing because the springs came out also from the pointer motors), after that I could remove the pointer surface, then I could see the motherboard. Motherboard had about 10 torx screws, after that I could remove the motherboard and I could remove the white plastic stuff from the display and after that I could do the soldering. 2002 e39 2.5 DA, after facelift. I can take pictures about the whole process if you wanna see it.
@@arpxdagoodone , how did you get to the screws?
@@arpxdagoodone, I did show both approaches - with hole drilling and with pointer removal if you did watch carefully :)
damn....I was so careless... now I see....you're right....
what brand the lcd?
Hi mate, awesome video. I love the details and different methods offered.
Please could you reply with the video you mentioned of how to attach the cable to the lcd screen? I will have to do that procedure (you mentioned on 39:55).
Thanks a lot
Pretty much same procedure as to attach it to the board.
Good video.. where you get lcd screen ? I also want send it.. 👍
You can get it on our website. All the links in the description.
I pulled the gas cluster needle out and the wire came out. I know I messed up, is it fixable ?
Absolutely. This pointer motor needs to be replaced. The problem is - you need to remove other pointers to get to this one. If you don’t have a proper tools - it’s better to send it to someone for the repair before more damage occurs.
@@HETPEZBokay. Only the black part is supposed to come out correct, and then it’s good
Any ideas on the traction control light? My traction control system throws no errors to OBD2, turns on and off perfectly but does not light up when disabled or when braking traction. The warning light beside dsc works
Any way to force this light to come on in order or test it?
i wish, i have seen this video bevor i try to repair my display.
can you tell me, whats the difference between the carbon and the silver cable?
is it the quality and durability?
I would say - fancy look.
can I send my instrument panel to you for rapairs? Thank you!
Absolutely. The link for the repair service should be in the description underneath the video
Can I send you mine to have the display replaced? Thanks!
If you are in US - absolutely. Repair service link is in the description.
Should I like up the new ribbon directly into the gold lines or out them inbetween....should I see gold lines thru the ribbon after completion or not?
You should not see a gold lines through.
How do I het up with you about sending you my cluster to have some work done to it?
check our website - www.bestpixelrepair.com
Great video.
I have a problem removing the needles. The temperature gauge needle, won't move, won't come out. Any ideas to remove it without breaking the motor?
The one and only way shown in the video.
Amazing man! Would be possible to you to fix mine?? I’m from Brazil and to honest I haven’t found any professional guy here who could be able to work on my cluster. Very probably they do not know the tips you picture up in your video and they will scratch off the pointers or brake something. So if you agree and have an email to be contact with it would be great for me. Thanks and very good video congrats!
WOW.... Lot of knowledge there.... can i send you my customer cluster?
Absolutely. You should find the useful links in the description under the video :)
@@HETPEZB i would like to do business with you. can you contact me? bmdewalque at g mail dot com Thanks
Hi, I have tried to repair my screen, before the repair it was horrible, now the left half reads perfectly but the right one has like dimmed pixels, also I can see that the pixel next to the dimmed one enables without having to (also dimmed)
What can I have done wrong?
Possibly burned out bulbs plus incorrect cable alignment.
@@HETPEZB Hi, I was able to correct the screen, it was that I didn't give enough pressure when soldering, but the brightness issue still exist. I have tried on putting more powerful bulbs (2w), but is the same. I measured 10.5V on the bulb rail when applying light to the light sensor (max brightness). Also I noticed that when low beams are active, it is not in sync with the gauge brightness (apart from being darker than them), when I start moving the brightness dial, the screen gets to min brightness (2.7V more or less on the bulbs) earlier than the rest of the things in the car (gauges included). The light sensor appears to be ok, checked with inpa. Do you know what can it be?
it is a special tool to hold the needle?
No, just whatever tiny pliers or side cutters you can find that fits.
Hi there. I accidentally damaged the spring coil for the temperature gauge while trying to calibrate the needle. Can I send you the cluster for repair please? Contact info? Again, I need to replace the temperature motor. Thank you
Absolutely. Also we do sell the replacement motors too.
www.bestpixelrepair.com
Thank you so much. Is there a contact number I can call please? Thanks again
SURGICAL PRECISION 🙏 Thank's
Pleas name blue pincers .Thank you !
Very very helpful thank you very much.
Question, do you know the part number for the small bulbs (service vehicle soon / check engine light)??
Mine is dead but everything else works perfect.
There are no part numbers for those lights. They are SMD LEDs. If yours doesn't work - it's either taped or yanked out.
The contents of the kit I received with my LCD screen has a torx driver, speed-o opening support (x4), silver ribbon cable, needle removal tool, and bezel protector.
The instruction manual says that this kit was supposed to include a "foam spacer" for the T-tip iron. However, it didn't come in my kit. Is it possible to buy this foam in a store ?
Hello, you need to ask the seller of the kit for the support. It’s possible, that your kit doesn’t require bonding to begin with.
@@HETPEZB yep, I was the one who spoke to you on the phone today. I had my friend (the purchaser) contact the seller for his recommended instructions. Once I am able to find success with one repair... .. I'll understand what to do. But I don't want to turn this screen / cable into a lab experiment and ruin it. Just want to do it right the first time.
Hello bro. Can i just buy from same car all panel and instal to my car???? Give some answer pls, and sorry for my bad English. Thank you sir
Yeah i got the same question
Hi m8 great video can u pls tell me or upload pic off the smd in the cluster. Thx again for great video
What is “smd in the cluster”?
@@HETPEZB yh smd in cluster. I tried to screenshot i t but no chance. So if u know wich one or can send pics that will be great cheers
I don’t get what are you looking for. Don’t know what “smd in the cluster is”.
@@HETPEZB led in the cluster bulb wich lights up needles
Where can I get the pointer removal tool and the small pliers to hold the motor shaft to keep it from turning?
You can find something on eBay, but I would suggest you to use drilling method if you have no experience with the pointer removal.
How do we decide to use 'ribbon cable' or 'ribbon + lcd'? In what cases does just a ribbon cable replacement work? Thank you.
Probably 3-4 minutes of this video is related to answer to your question in details.
@@HETPEZB I think I got it. Missing pixels is indicate ribbon problem but at the same time we check lcd's rectangular pins. If the pins had damaged -oxidation etc., we have to replace lcd+ribbon.
Sinan Orhan , exactly
could you help me plz ? on my e46 airbag bulb is not functioning at all. even on cluster test it does not show up. fuses are in place. what a previous owner did to it :(
I would guess he yanked it out.
@@HETPEZB ahh man i took cluster out after writing first comment. that mf had filled it with tape from the inside. thanks god he did not brake bulb.thank you for answer
how did you remove the flex cable from PCB?
Simply pull it off.
What do you use to test it at home? I mean did you take some random adabter and attach it to the cables or?
farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7703454900_42a1f0fe22_b.jpg
Hello,
If I send this off to be fixed would I still be able to drive my car? it's my daily driver for work.
Nope. Car can’t be used without a cluster.
@@HETPEZB Can the car not run without it? Or what is the reason?
Alternator not working without a cluster.
Hi
I just replaced my Speedo LCD ribbon. I did it the drilling method and not removing the pointers.
However. The fuel gauge now reads a bit low? Any advise
Assuming you didn't damage the motor - the only thing that you need is to recalibrate the gauge. Twist it clockwise and when you will feel the resistance - twist 90 degrees more. Then release it. Once returned it will rest substantially higher than needed. Twist it counterclockwise until it is resting on the proper position.
thanks but could u plz tell me how can I test in the work place many thanks to responding
Already answered in the comments below - farm8.staticflickr.com/7114/7703454900_42a1f0fe22_b.jpg
Are you able to repair an EL cluster from 2008 Chrysler Sebring that no longer lights up?
randy.rundle@mwcradio.com
Get a hold of this guy (Jeff) - ruclips.net/video/CxFYvIvVRtI/видео.html
Excelent
Thank you! Hopefully it helps :)
Hi man. I have a dash for E38. can you fix one for me? thx
Hello, yes we can. Details are in the description below the video.