Bought the LaserTree K40 for cutting material. This thing is a beast! 1/4 inch ply in one pass at 450mm/m and 90% power. 1/4 inch MDF, lower power but still no issue on one pass. Haven't tried engraving anything yet but it looks like it will help my business with custom cut wall art on my DIY 24 inch by 48 inch laser frame without any issue. Word of warning though. If you're cutting material, make sure you have an enclosure and a way to exhaust the fumes. Also use air assist event in a small amount to protect the lens from smoke/soot. This puppy kicks up a lot of smoke when it cuts. No regrets buying it. Like I said, it's a beast!
HI Steve, I just installed the K30 on my Ortur LM2 frame. Do you know if there is a way to slow down the travel speeds of the laser in between cuts? The bigger laser moves and stops so fast it can jar the frame and cause cuts to be off. It's not the cut speed setting, its the movement between cuts. I can't seem to find a way to slow down the travel speeds. Also, did your K30's fans come on as soon as you added the external power to them? is there a setting that can tell the laser to go to sleep without powering down the unit completely? Thanks!
Yes, in Lightburn under the Edit menu you can look at the device settings and make changes there. Looks for x and y speed and acceleration values in the section at the bottom. You'll get a scary message when you try to open this section of the settings and I would recommend record the value of any item you want to change, in case you need to change it back.
Thank you very much for the useful Video. I got the same. However, I have an issue that I can not figure out. I hope you might be able to help. I can not turn off the travel lines between shapes. For example, It burns between letters in a name. I checked everything I was able to find which basically entered $32=1, and $30 =1000 in Lightburn consol. That did not work. Are there any tips that you help with? Thanks in advance.
Hmm, never seen that problem. That would realistically happen only if the gcode that was generated didn't turn off the laser. Without actually sitting as the laser, it would be difficult
Hi Steve thank you it’s exactly what I needed. I have the s30 ! Do you have ( can you send me) the stl for the offset block to go against the limit switch as I can’t use fusion I just don’t understand the program
Thanks. I’ve been thinking about upgrading my XTools S1 from 40w to 60w. Came across this video when I was hunting for info. I wonder how well it will work, and if it is a sensible upgrade. I think the modules are currently $750-800 for the 60w. Do you have any thoughts?
The thing to keep in mind is that the laser module is the most expensive component in the entire laser, typically representing about 60-70% of the cost. You need to decide if you like the rest of your laser enough to do this upgrade because selling it and buying a whole new laser may be more economical.
I have installed my K20 but am wondering if I have to download a driver. When I get into Lightburn, it isn't recognizing the Laser Tree K20. Could you please provide any assistance? Thank you for this video
There's no drivers. Lightburn won't know anything about the K20, it just provides power and a pulse to fire the lasers. It the laser isn't firing when you send a job, then make sure you have the auxiliary power plugging into the LaserTree card, and make sure you the the jumpers set properly to use aux. power
I got controler hoard but don’t understand how use it do I just power everything thru that or do I need to run a 24v thru it for laser pluse my standers 24v power plugin in to my main board ?
The board has its own power and you would need that if your current laser is 12v. Make sue to switch the board to handle external power. If your laser is already 24V powered, you can just pass power through the board as long as your power supply can handle the current requirements.
Thats great what you do with the demo models you receive. Do you hold on to the latest ones, so you can do some extensive testing, to see what their endurance is?
Hi Steve. I find your video very useful and interesting. Thanks a lot for it. The problem of not enough power is a real issue for for me as cutting is more important for me than engraving.. My machine is a Sculpfun S9 on which I have already replaced the unit with their 10W (+air pump). This brought some improvement but the cutting possibilities are, still, limited when it comes to material thickness. I'd like to ask you: What experience have you had with the K30 in respect to cutting power? How thick is their beam? I saw on your video that you upgraded your gantry (with Sculpfun's kit?) Why? to what benefit? Is the K30 heavier than the S9 unit? Does it matter in this respect? Many thanks. Emanuel
I didn’t measure the K30 beam size, nor could I find it listed in their specs, but it does cut very well as shown by the cut test for this video. I upgrade an S30 rather than an S9, so maybe that’s the difference in gantries. Regardless the S30 was stock as it came from Sculpfun
Thank you for your reply. On the subject of upgrading a Sculpfun machine from 5.5W or 10W to the twenties or thirties , I still wonder: why buy a module from LaserTree (or any other source) while Sculpfum themselves offer upgrading units ? Do you or anyone of your channel followers have any insight ? Many thanks. Emanuel
@@kuansengwong5620 It's kind of the same answer. Every laser/laser module combination will be unique. The 40W module will definitely be lighter, but check the Laser Tree documentation to see if there is any information on what laser's they've tried this on.
Hi again Steve, I am now trying to install the lasertree module on my sculpfun S9. I purchased the K20 version, which I assume should be insalled similarly to the k30 in your video. In the manual there is no mention of the "the existing cable" as you called it (which I suppose is the one that used to feed the original module). The manual only explains how to connect the new cable from the driver to the module. But then I guess that the module should need some kind of feed, so what you described makes more sense. But I don't know... Another question, a trifle really: I saw in your video (and in the manual) that the fastening screws are placed on the side of the laser. While they are surely easier to access now, I have noticed that while tightening them up they tilt the module sligtly sideways, within the freedom between the rail and the slider. I thought of placing he screws behind the module, like in the original sculpfun module, but then the screws would be slightly more difficult to access. Does it make any difference? Thanks in advance
The cable that comes from the laser plugs into the input on control module. Look for one with the same pin out as the old laser module for power, ground and PCM. The new laser module plugs into a dedicated output connector on the module
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks Steve . Just to make sure “the cable that comes from the laser” you mentioned is the one that was connected to the old module and is now loose. Yes?
hi Steve, is it safe to plug the new 24V power cable that comes with the module to the sculpfun 12V motherboard or should the 24V power cable be connected to the lasertree driver?
If the Sculpfun uses 12v power then you don’t want to be plugging it into a 24v power supply, though I don’t think the connector would fit anyway. Plug the laser into 12v as normal, then set to LaserTree module to external power and plug the 24v supply into that to power the laser module.
Interesting video! Similar to my 20watt comgrow upgrade. I wonder if that little control board is nessesary. On my Comgrow there was only the 20w power supply, the PWM, and both grounds where tied together. It seems like you could do something similar here. How is the digital display? It's a temperature reading of the laser module, right? I've heard the dot size of the module is rather large. Did you notice any difference compared to some of the other ones? I think my next $599 is going towards a K40, but maybe one day!
The control board has a couple things on it. One is the connection for the external 24v power supply, but in principle, it should just be power isolation and whatever it takes to make the input pinout look like your existing laser. The dot size for most 30W lasers is larger but still smaller than a Co2 laser, but of course, a CO2 provides its own unique set of capabilities.
I have a Longmill Mk2 cnc router with their laser module. Do you know if this would be a compatible replacement for a power upgrade? My laser is a 7watt and the cnc router controller has a PWM port that controls the laser.
In theory it will work since laser modules typical have three connections (power, ground and PWM). You will need to make sure that whatever powers the laser can drive the current you need and you’d probably need to make a custom able between the Longmill and the new laser module
@@DwightStebner This is one of the hazards of the K40 lasers. You really need the Ruida controller. None of this helps you of course unless you're now willing to spend more money to upgrade the controller. Note that Lightburn can generate GCode to a saved file. If your laser and read a gcode file from a USB stick, then you might still be able to use Lightburn, though you won't have the conveniences it provides if you're connected (e.g. framing)
@@DwightStebner I don't know this board well, but in theory, it should work. but this controller is really designed for diode lasers so I wouldn't bet on it for a CO2 laser. You would have to shoot them an email and ask if they support your laser. For CO2 lasers I've always used Ruida controllers. They have all the inputs for water flow, cooling pump and all the other things that CO2 laser need that diode laser don't
Well, I think so🤔, but to be correct, the 33W module I reviewed here is 559 USD, which is about €550. The 40W module might cost €800, but I challenge you to find a new, useable 40W laser for less than that. Keep in mind that it's still a cheaper upgrade than buying a new laser, and budget is a big concern for most people.
$599. That's probably what to lead with on this video. Is anyone really going to put the equivalent cost of an TWO entire K40 CO2 laser systems on a $99 otura framework? No.
Well framework is basically the same on every laser. It’s the laser module that gives the most impact and there will be people who don’t have budget for a whole new laser. The K40 argument applies to any diode laser not just an upgrade.
I upgraded mine for about $300 to the K30 from a 10W and with the craze about the K40 CO2 and how expensive the upgrades and consumables are i'll stay for now with a diode !
Bought the LaserTree K40 for cutting material. This thing is a beast! 1/4 inch ply in one pass at 450mm/m and 90% power. 1/4 inch MDF, lower power but still no issue on one pass. Haven't tried engraving anything yet but it looks like it will help my business with custom cut wall art on my DIY 24 inch by 48 inch laser frame without any issue. Word of warning though. If you're cutting material, make sure you have an enclosure and a way to exhaust the fumes. Also use air assist event in a small amount to protect the lens from smoke/soot. This puppy kicks up a lot of smoke when it cuts. No regrets buying it. Like I said, it's a beast!
Enclosures are always recommended. Cutting wood makes quite a bit of smoke.
i bought mine a few months back and it cuts really well
Yes it a good upgrade if you don’t want to buy a whole new laser
Wow, perfect,! I've a sculpfun s30 and been looking at laser upgrades. Thanks for the info.
Glad to help
Just ordered a K30 for my Ortur LM3 now. Replaced with a 10w. Hope it is as good as many say. :)
It should be. I like this upgrade for anyone that wants to keep their existing laser drivetrain.
Have you done an upgrade on the xTool 10W D1 Pro with the Laser Tree LT-4LDS-V2
I haven’t. There are only a few different configurations for laser modules so it should work, but it might be worth confirming this with LaserTree
Hi Steve, what are you setting the offset to in Lightburn ?
Sorry. I don’t recall the offsets. They’re pretty easy to figure out though
HI Steve, I just installed the K30 on my Ortur LM2 frame. Do you know if there is a way to slow down the travel speeds of the laser in between cuts? The bigger laser moves and stops so fast it can jar the frame and cause cuts to be off. It's not the cut speed setting, its the movement between cuts. I can't seem to find a way to slow down the travel speeds. Also, did your K30's fans come on as soon as you added the external power to them? is there a setting that can tell the laser to go to sleep without powering down the unit completely? Thanks!
Yes, in Lightburn under the Edit menu you can look at the device settings and make changes there. Looks for x and y speed and acceleration values in the section at the bottom. You'll get a scary message when you try to open this section of the settings and I would recommend record the value of any item you want to change, in case you need to change it back.
Thank you very much for the useful Video. I got the same. However, I have an issue that I can not figure out. I hope you might be able to help. I can not turn off the travel lines between shapes. For example, It burns between letters in a name. I checked everything I was able to find which basically entered $32=1, and $30 =1000 in Lightburn consol. That did not work. Are there any tips that you help with? Thanks in advance.
Hmm, never seen that problem. That would realistically happen only if the gcode that was generated didn't turn off the laser. Without actually sitting as the laser, it would be difficult
Hi Steve thank you it’s exactly what I needed. I have the s30 !
Do you have ( can you send me) the stl for the offset block to go against the limit switch as I can’t use fusion I just don’t understand the program
Let me see if I still have that design
Thanks. I’ve been thinking about upgrading my XTools S1 from 40w to 60w. Came across this video when I was hunting for info. I wonder how well it will work, and if it is a sensible upgrade. I think the modules are currently $750-800 for the 60w. Do you have any thoughts?
The thing to keep in mind is that the laser module is the most expensive component in the entire laser, typically representing about 60-70% of the cost. You need to decide if you like the rest of your laser enough to do this upgrade because selling it and buying a whole new laser may be more economical.
Hi Steve, is there No air assist connection on these?
Yes air assist is there. The input is on top of the module
@@SteveMakesEverything Ok thats great to know, thanks for the reply.
SUPER video thank you
Thank you too
Hey Steve, will this kit work with my xtool D1 Non-Pro 10 watt that I upgraded to 20 watt a year or so ago?
Hmm. Always best to ask Laser Tree. I believe they designed this to support the D1 Pro as well.
My xtool 5watt died, I've been looking at the laser tree k20. What other laser heads can swop out the xtool head ?
There aren’t very many alternatives. You can ask the LaserTree folks if they have an option for the D1
I have installed my K20 but am wondering if I have to download a driver. When I get into Lightburn, it isn't recognizing the Laser Tree K20. Could you please provide any assistance? Thank you for this video
There's no drivers. Lightburn won't know anything about the K20, it just provides power and a pulse to fire the lasers. It the laser isn't firing when you send a job, then make sure you have the auxiliary power plugging into the LaserTree card, and make sure you the the jumpers set properly to use aux. power
Great video! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
I got controler hoard but don’t understand how use it do I just power everything thru that or do I need to run a 24v thru it for laser pluse my standers 24v power plugin in to my main board ?
The board has its own power and you would need that if your current laser is 12v. Make sue to switch the board to handle external power. If your laser is already 24V powered, you can just pass power through the board as long as your power supply can handle the current requirements.
Thats great what you do with the demo models you receive. Do you hold on to the latest ones, so you can do some extensive testing, to see what their endurance is?
I always keep a handful between 5W and 40W for testing and comparisons. Normally these get donated to non-profits like schools and local maker spaces
Hi Steve. I find your video very useful and interesting. Thanks a lot for it. The problem of not enough power is a real issue for for me as cutting is more important for me than engraving.. My machine is a Sculpfun S9 on which I have already replaced the unit with their 10W (+air pump). This brought some improvement but the cutting possibilities are, still, limited when it comes to material thickness. I'd like to ask you: What experience have you had with the K30 in respect to cutting power? How thick is their beam? I saw on your video that you upgraded your gantry (with Sculpfun's kit?) Why? to what benefit? Is the K30 heavier than the S9 unit? Does it matter in this respect? Many thanks. Emanuel
I didn’t measure the K30 beam size, nor could I find it listed in their specs, but it does cut very well as shown by the cut test for this video.
I upgrade an S30 rather than an S9, so maybe that’s the difference in gantries. Regardless the S30 was stock as it came from Sculpfun
Thank you for your reply. On the subject of upgrading a Sculpfun machine from 5.5W or 10W to the twenties or thirties , I still wonder: why buy a module from LaserTree (or any other source) while Sculpfum themselves offer upgrading units ? Do you or anyone of your channel followers have any insight ? Many thanks. Emanuel
@@emanuelpelleg281 Yes, in cases where the manufacturer has a cost-effective alternative, use that. I used the Sculpfun because that's what I had.
Laser Tree 80 w Module can it be used on Sculfun S 30 20 w pro max
This might be something you'd need to ask Laser Tree about. The gantry on an S30 is pretty spindly, so the weight of a big module might be a problem.
@@SteveMakesEverything Noted with Thanks'
@@SteveMakesEverything How about k40?
@@kuansengwong5620 It's kind of the same answer. Every laser/laser module combination will be unique.
The 40W module will definitely be lighter, but check the Laser Tree documentation to see if there is any information on what laser's they've tried this on.
@@SteveMakesEverything Noted with Thanks'
Hi again Steve, I am now trying to install the lasertree module on my sculpfun S9. I purchased the K20 version, which I assume should be insalled similarly to the k30 in your video. In the manual there is no mention of the "the existing cable" as you called it (which I suppose is the one that used to feed the original module). The manual only explains how to connect the new cable from the driver to the module. But then I guess that the module should need some kind of feed, so what you described makes more sense. But I don't know...
Another question, a trifle really: I saw in your video (and in the manual) that the fastening screws are placed on the side of the laser. While they are surely easier to access now, I have noticed that while tightening them up they tilt the module sligtly sideways, within the freedom between the rail and the slider. I thought of placing he screws behind the module, like in the original sculpfun module, but then the screws would be slightly more difficult to access. Does it make any difference? Thanks in advance
The cable that comes from the laser plugs into the input on control module. Look for one with the same pin out as the old laser module for power, ground and PCM. The new laser module plugs into a dedicated output connector on the module
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks Steve . Just to make sure “the cable that comes from the laser” you mentioned is the one that was connected to the old module and is now loose. Yes?
@@yehudaschryer5985 yes
hi Steve, is it safe to plug the new 24V power cable that comes with the module to the sculpfun 12V motherboard or should the 24V power cable be connected to the lasertree driver?
If the Sculpfun uses 12v power then you don’t want to be plugging it into a 24v power supply, though I don’t think the connector would fit anyway. Plug the laser into 12v as normal, then set to LaserTree module to external power and plug the 24v supply into that to power the laser module.
I'll do just that, thanks a lot Steve@@SteveMakesEverything
Interesting video! Similar to my 20watt comgrow upgrade. I wonder if that little control board is nessesary. On my Comgrow there was only the 20w power supply, the PWM, and both grounds where tied together. It seems like you could do something similar here. How is the digital display? It's a temperature reading of the laser module, right? I've heard the dot size of the module is rather large. Did you notice any difference compared to some of the other ones? I think my next $599 is going towards a K40, but maybe one day!
The control board has a couple things on it. One is the connection for the external 24v power supply, but in principle, it should just be power isolation and whatever it takes to make the input pinout look like your existing laser. The dot size for most 30W lasers is larger but still smaller than a Co2 laser, but of course, a CO2 provides its own unique set of capabilities.
I have a Longmill Mk2 cnc router with their laser module. Do you know if this would be a compatible replacement for a power upgrade? My laser is a 7watt and the cnc router controller has a PWM port that controls the laser.
In theory it will work since laser modules typical have three connections (power, ground and PWM). You will need to make sure that whatever powers the laser can drive the current you need and you’d probably need to make a custom able between the Longmill and the new laser module
looking or reviews of the K40 now
Let me see what I can do
@@DwightStebner This is one of the hazards of the K40 lasers. You really need the Ruida controller.
None of this helps you of course unless you're now willing to spend more money to upgrade the controller.
Note that Lightburn can generate GCode to a saved file. If your laser and read a gcode file from a USB stick, then you might still be able to use Lightburn, though you won't have the conveniences it provides if you're connected (e.g. framing)
@@SteveMakesEverything I have Timothy Rothmans Black and blue control board now, will it work with the K30 or k40.
@@DwightStebner I don't know this board well, but in theory, it should work. but this controller is really designed for diode lasers so I wouldn't bet on it for a CO2 laser. You would have to shoot them an email and ask if they support your laser.
For CO2 lasers I've always used Ruida controllers. They have all the inputs for water flow, cooling pump and all the other things that CO2 laser need that diode laser don't
@@SteveMakesEverything the k40 is a diode module. I use Timothy Rothmand board with my 10 watt diode now.
Great video man, very informative
Glad you liked it!
€800??? 😂 are you for real 😆🙈
Well, I think so🤔, but to be correct, the 33W module I reviewed here is 559 USD, which is about €550. The 40W module might cost €800, but I challenge you to find a new, useable 40W laser for less than that.
Keep in mind that it's still a cheaper upgrade than buying a new laser, and budget is a big concern for most people.
is compatible with atomstack
It S hould work with most lasers including the Atomstack
$599. That's probably what to lead with on this video. Is anyone really going to put the equivalent cost of an TWO entire K40 CO2 laser systems on a $99 otura framework? No.
Well framework is basically the same on every laser. It’s the laser module that gives the most impact and there will be people who don’t have budget for a whole new laser.
The K40 argument applies to any diode laser not just an upgrade.
I upgraded mine for about $300 to the K30 from a 10W and with the craze about the K40 CO2 and how expensive the upgrades and consumables are i'll stay for now with a diode !