If you see two hamsters and a pug Driving tanks over the rug You're for sure at Sariel's home So say hi and show them love Merry Christmas! and I like hamsters!
@@searme this would surely steal the show! But the Land Rover might need to stay in neutral ;) I quite like this buggy but if I went to the store I'd end up buying the Defender instead when I can afford it, it's beautiful!
I love when you upgrade sets by modding! I remember your 42029 Pick-up full RC mod. Both this and the new 42125 are the modders' paradise, exciting stuff!
the reason why the hub wasnt being overloaded with the Eneloops batteries is because they only supplier 7.2V instead of 9V. the flashing orange light isnt overload on the system, its overheat on the moter driver chips. if you take the hub apart and slap heatsinks on those motor chips you can push twice 1.5x the watts through them before overheat. the reason why you dont see the flash with the 7.2V batteries is becase you're essentially undervolting the system, lowering the total output wattage, thus lowering the ammount of heat-loss into the controller chips.
My theory: the power on the dial is based on the current. As the motors aren't actually geared down enough for the weight of this vehicle, they have to supply torque they can't. As a result, the motors supply as much torque as they get current from the Control+ brick (but the rpm is held back). Torque is very closely related to current, so that's why the dial stays at 70 on normal batteries and >90 on the high-current Eneloops. Voltage is closely related to rpm, which is why the speed does not dramatically go up: there is a benefit from the much higher current Eneloops, but the actual _power_ benefit stays down as the voltage is down.
Nice, esp. with all the track, speed infos! *thumbs up* Regarding the voltage limitation of the eneloops, have you also tried NiZn rechargeable batteries? These have 1.5-1.6V and powered our 4x4 (42099) really well - but we did not compare speeds...yet ;)
I would use Nickel Zinc AA batteries, they are rechargeable but have a much higher voltage than normal batteries at around 1.9 volts each maximum. Not sure if that would damage the C+ hub though...
I won't waste my money on C+. Since I started using brushless RC motors with silicone lubricant I don't really have a use for Lego electronics anymore.
Honestly I think LEGO should reconsider using brushed DC motors as the base for every motor they make. Just think of the amazing performance and efficiency you could get if they were using stepper motors or BLDC motors. I guess that would make the price skyrocket even more though
I think the percentage dial is speed, not power. It runs to 100% with the wheels lifted, that doesn't take any torque to achieve. In that case your chosen gears keep it at 90%+ of available speed, so this is about the best it can be on c+, unless you add a lighter and more powerful Buwizz 3.
So if I made a lipo battery addon would you buy it? (I would have to buy the control + system first of all and I would have to find all the restrictions that lego set on the control + hub)
I can guess is that overload is due to calibration of the steering motor in the Powered Up app. I.e. at the edges of the steering rack the motor still tries to go further than the physical limit, thus consuming more power while being stalled. One way to confirm this is to test the original model with a Powered Up profile. Also, try multiplying the steering input by 0.90 or less (the corresponding block is in "Math" section) and see if the overloads go away.
Wrong. When you start a custom control profile, the steering motor checks where its range of movement ends and calibrates itself accordingly. So it never tries to go further than the physical limit.
@@searme I mean I wrote that it calibrates. But there seems to be a problem with that calibration: when a slider is at its furthest position, the motor still tries to go a bit further (notice that high-pitch sound)
The 1.5v vs. 1.2v isn't really a problem here. The 1.5v battery's can't hold up the power output an probably drops their voltage a lot. Some litiums that internally has 3.7v but output steady 1.5 with high power output would do it :)
May I kindly ask if this is C+ is possible on MOC car: I'm thinking of getting both 42142 and 42123; integrating its motor into 42123? Or the app only works on this model?
Just connect Buwizz 3.0 when you have it in your hands (I am sure they will send you soon) to the same setup and compare the speeds with the full potential of the PU motors :)
How are you getting such precise GPS logs? Is that from the GoPro? That looks crazy accurate considering how small the distance you're traveling over is. Great vid!
@@searme Woah yeah sorry dude. I'd read that and just didn't believe it honestly I can't think of any GPS device that I've worked with that gives that accurate telemetry but it probably fuses it with other acc/gyro sensors to get it more accurate, still impressive didn't know the GoPro was capable of that resolution
I'm thinking of changing up the rear end to get some proper suspension and a different drive. I'm thinking a pair of PF M-motors for power and a servo for steering.
@@searme Problem is that my L motors are currently in a heavier awd drive chassis that needs the power more. Perhaps my xl motor and some different gearing will work.
Hi, I have used this powered up diagram for other Lego model, there is any chance to change motors rotation or joystick directions? My car drive opposite way.
@@searme got it for 150 cad used vs 180 new. Only problem is that 8475 drains a lot of power while 42124 doesn't drain too much. 8475 performance is 3 times faster while having around the same torque
I just realized a few things FIRST I'm like super early by the time I'm writing this SECOND This set's code is palyndrome (it can be read in both ways) Also, just a quick thought, if you can find online some of those sets in almost perfect conditions, is there a chance that in the future you will also review those large scale Lego Racers cars (e.g. the Ferrari Enzo?) Just as a possible idea
Love the star wars reference and meme at 5:22! Team Jar Jar wishes all Happy holidays!
If you see two hamsters and a pug
Driving tanks over the rug
You're for sure at Sariel's home
So say hi and show them love
Merry Christmas!
and I like hamsters!
Congratulations on winning the LEGO 42095 set in my Technic giveaway! :)
@@searme I like hamsters
I was fully expecting a pug drawn sleigh buggy at the end
You really got my hopes up Sariel
Sorry! How about a pug-drawn LEGO Land Rover Defender instead? ruclips.net/video/x49OXsc0nZU/видео.html&ab_channel=Sariel%27sBricks%26Pets
@@searme this would surely steal the show! But the Land Rover might need to stay in neutral ;)
I quite like this buggy but if I went to the store I'd end up buying the Defender instead when I can afford it, it's beautiful!
This is what we were waiting for, you are the best upgrading Lego sets!
Merry Christmas
Maybe you could try the NIZN Ansmann batteries and that would give it more power without having to make a new power module. Great video!
I love when you upgrade sets by modding! I remember your 42029 Pick-up full RC mod. Both this and the new 42125 are the modders' paradise, exciting stuff!
I have one simple trick to get twice the speed. See that little cog in the bottom right corner?
1:53 LEGO ReVolt - Sariel version ... if you remember what I mean!
Merry Christmas everyone!
Great game
@@Quywalda yes it is...I liked it much!
Still have a CD!
This video deserves a thumbs up for the Magnificent thumbnail!! 😍😍
We need more power! says every lego enthusiast.
have you seen the pre order for the Buwizz 3.0?
Merry Christmas to everyone and hope 2021 is a better year than this one. Can’t wait to see all the new LEGO sets for myself
You should add the new buwizz motors to a technic set!
Awesome mod, wish I could get one to mod myself
Merry early Christmas everyone, your videos are like Christmas presents to us
I always wonder how stressed motors are. I'm glad you finally muted the music for this test.
the reason why the hub wasnt being overloaded with the Eneloops batteries is because they only supplier 7.2V instead of 9V. the flashing orange light isnt overload on the system, its overheat on the moter driver chips. if you take the hub apart and slap heatsinks on those motor chips you can push twice 1.5x the watts through them before overheat.
the reason why you dont see the flash with the 7.2V batteries is becase you're essentially undervolting the system, lowering the total output wattage, thus lowering the ammount of heat-loss into the controller chips.
My theory: the power on the dial is based on the current. As the motors aren't actually geared down enough for the weight of this vehicle, they have to supply torque they can't. As a result, the motors supply as much torque as they get current from the Control+ brick (but the rpm is held back). Torque is very closely related to current, so that's why the dial stays at 70 on normal batteries and >90 on the high-current Eneloops. Voltage is closely related to rpm, which is why the speed does not dramatically go up: there is a benefit from the much higher current Eneloops, but the actual _power_ benefit stays down as the voltage is down.
Love the recent surge of activity on the channel! Keep doing what you're doing, your videos are great, wish u happy holidays!
Plot twist: Muffin is Jar Jar Binks in disguise, our great noble representative in the galactic capital of far far away.
That thing is pretty cool! Nice job figuring out how to fit two motors.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
“ what a piece of junk”😂
Nice, esp. with all the track, speed infos! *thumbs up*
Regarding the voltage limitation of the eneloops, have you also tried NiZn rechargeable batteries? These have 1.5-1.6V and powered our 4x4 (42099) really well - but we did not compare speeds...yet ;)
Just ordered some, should arrive in a few days. Stay tuned for a video test!
More of modding LEGO sets Sariel!
I wish i could afford this☹
Great review btw👍👍😍
Yeah......you could like just buy 2 rc rally cars from that price!🤯
nice how did you do that again
I would use Nickel Zinc AA batteries, they are rechargeable but have a much higher voltage than normal batteries at around 1.9 volts each maximum. Not sure if that would damage the C+ hub though...
1.6V from what I know, and also I can't seem to find these batteries anywhere.
Thank you for your serious testing.👍
Palps on the Thumbnail 😂
Maybe a set of Lithium batteries would provide more power?
You should try setting up ramps and doing stunts with it powered up to really test out the suspension
I've already tested the suspension in my review of the 42124 and here it's not much different since the speed is almost the same.
What he wanted: 👾
What he got: 😴
MORE POWERRRRRRRR
I won't waste my money on C+. Since I started using brushless RC motors with silicone lubricant I don't really have a use for Lego electronics anymore.
Are we going to have any special high-performance battery units for Control + hub? What do you think?
what we understand from these video is that eneloops are the best bataries
Front springs are way too stiff. There's no suspension going on, that's why the vibrations are so harsh.
Honestly I think LEGO should reconsider using brushed DC motors as the base for every motor they make. Just think of the amazing performance and efficiency you could get if they were using stepper motors or BLDC motors. I guess that would make the price skyrocket even more though
I think the percentage dial is speed, not power. It runs to 100% with the wheels lifted, that doesn't take any torque to achieve.
In that case your chosen gears keep it at 90%+ of available speed, so this is about the best it can be on c+, unless you add a lighter and more powerful Buwizz 3.
You can be official Lego Designer !
I like when you mod lego sets!
So if I made a lipo battery addon would you buy it? (I would have to buy the control + system first of all and I would have to find all the restrictions that lego set on the control + hub)
No.
I can guess is that overload is due to calibration of the steering motor in the Powered Up app. I.e. at the edges of the steering rack the motor still tries to go further than the physical limit, thus consuming more power while being stalled. One way to confirm this is to test the original model with a Powered Up profile. Also, try multiplying the steering input by 0.90 or less (the corresponding block is in "Math" section) and see if the overloads go away.
Wrong. When you start a custom control profile, the steering motor checks where its range of movement ends and calibrates itself accordingly. So it never tries to go further than the physical limit.
@@searme I mean I wrote that it calibrates. But there seems to be a problem with that calibration: when a slider is at its furthest position, the motor still tries to go a bit further (notice that high-pitch sound)
Have you felt any difference in Eneloop quality since the Panasonic rebranding from Sanyo a couple years back?
Dunno, my Eneloops are a couple of years old.
@@searme Thanks, I've always Loved Eneloop too. Yup, they seem to hold up very well over the years. :)
The 1.5v vs. 1.2v isn't really a problem here. The 1.5v battery's can't hold up the power output an probably drops their voltage a lot.
Some litiums that internally has 3.7v but output steady 1.5 with high power output would do it :)
May I kindly ask if this is C+ is possible on MOC car: I'm thinking of getting both 42142 and 42123; integrating its motor into 42123?
Or the app only works on this model?
The Powered Up app works with any Control+ motors.
So, time for buwizz and the black buggy motor then?
How did you get the dual stick controller? Would much rather have that than the single joystick design.
Thanks
Just connect Buwizz 3.0 when you have it in your hands (I am sure they will send you soon) to the same setup and compare the speeds with the full potential of the PU motors :)
Test it with a Buwizz unit! (And the new RC motor)
How are you getting such precise GPS logs? Is that from the GoPro? That looks crazy accurate considering how small the distance you're traveling over is. Great vid!
It is GoPro, as explained at 0:20 - literally as soon as the logs show up.
@@searme Woah yeah sorry dude. I'd read that and just didn't believe it honestly I can't think of any GPS device that I've worked with that gives that accurate telemetry but it probably fuses it with other acc/gyro sensors to get it more accurate, still impressive didn't know the GoPro was capable of that resolution
Yup, it's been a feature since GoPro 5 Black.
the higher the voltage the better in this case
You should try out the new Buwizz unit with Control+ ports
Impressive that u managed to make it work like that,
I'm thinking of changing up the rear end to get some proper suspension and a different drive. I'm thinking a pair of PF M-motors for power and a servo for steering.
PF M motors are fairly weak. I suggest using PF L motors instead - almost the same size, much better performance.
@@searme Problem is that my L motors are currently in a heavier awd drive chassis that needs the power more. Perhaps my xl motor and some different gearing will work.
Powaaaahhhh!!!!
*L I M I T E D* Powaaahhhh!!!
you should do an architecture studio in-depth review
It's like literally one of the least interesting LEGO sets ever to me, sorry.
@@searme oh thats ok but im surprised you replied thanks
Hi, I have used this powered up diagram for other Lego model, there is any chance to change motors rotation or joystick directions? My car drive opposite way.
Your dog seems to not too impressed :)
Always ;)
What is your job?
I'm a software dev.
I love when you make sets better
I am still not sure if I should buy it or not. I am a huge fan of these buggys, but the price is absolutly to high.
With 1 motor 5 km/h, and with 2 motors 8 km/h ?
Yes.
When will you get the new technic senna?
January 1st.
Hey Sariel, which program are you using to create your thumbnails?
Photoshop.
Pimp my buggy next?
a gdyby połączyć 2 bateryjki w szereg i wpiąć zamiast jednej w obwód? byłoby 8.4V, od biedy można pomyśleć nawet o 3 ;)
I am waiting for lego to make a remote control drag racer
Why not update it with buwizz 3.0 now?
Yes ?
cool, def looking to mod it somehow. I'd be interested in third party motors however that could be put in this maybe...
BuWizz - Ludicrous mode.
@@jtd8719 nice, looks like the battery compartment might require some modding for this set however...
Mo powa baby
Yep. This is amazing!
Is this lego set suitable for outdoor use
Yes.
we need more power!
Can you use two motors in the control plus app
You can use up to 4 motors per hub.
5:21 Anyone know this song?
No snow???
How to get more power with the control+ system:
Take it out and put 2 buggy motors in
Sure, except buggy motors don't work with the Control+ system.
@@searme well you could technically use the new BuWizz 3.0
I don't have it yet.
8475 is much faster and cheaper at the time. It was around 110 vs 130 while having independent suspension
Also, it came out 19 years ago and it's very rare today. So not much of an alternative, is it?
@@searme got it for 150 cad used vs 180 new. Only problem is that 8475 drains a lot of power while 42124 doesn't drain too much. 8475 performance is 3 times faster while having around the same torque
Yes, a mod. I like your videos.
Or as James from donut would say MO POWA BABEH
Buwizz time!
Old spice POWER
Nice thumbnail!
Mo powah baby!
I don’t think it’s been designed to take on proper RC buggies.. looks cool though.
Best thumbnail ever! 😂
Well, if someone made more efficent motors with the same power, then this would be better.
Really cool thumbnail
I suspect TLG are kneecapping MOCs for safety/liability reasons.
Oh hey the stupid gloves are gone! Amazing!
Use BuWizz 3.0
You fif wery great joob.
Merry chritmas to ewerionr
I like your dog
nice
Still cool tho
Buwizz time?
Buwizz
How much duse that car cost??
Here: ruclips.net/video/F5zt_c_bYjY/видео.html&ab_channel=Sariel%27sBricks%26Pets
@@searme ahw! Thanks!😜👍
What?!?!🤯 €129,- 🤯 that's expensif! You can have like 2 rc rally cars from that!!🤯
Is it worth it?🤔
Is there any option to add two rc buggy motors and bu wizz? Great idea to show how weak are c+ engines
I just realized a few things
FIRST I'm like super early by the time I'm writing this
SECOND This set's code is palyndrome (it can be read in both ways)
Also, just a quick thought, if you can find online some of those sets in almost perfect conditions, is there a chance that in the future you will also review those large scale Lego Racers cars (e.g. the Ferrari Enzo?) Just as a possible idea
yeeees