How to Replace Your Ferguson TE20 Rear Crankshaft Seal
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I sell parts and offer technical advise to customers.
Parts seen in our videos can be purchased from www.queenslandt...
We have a lot more than we can offer on our web site available to us and in our store. If you dont see what you would like please email info@queenslandtractorspares.com.au and we will help where we can.
I do try and help with technical advise at bundybearsshed@gmail.com if you have a question or are having trouble with your project.
You have given a young bloke hope . Split my 20 , plates off ect . Didnt think I could do it with the crank in once I first tried . Thanks for the video . I’ll go tear it all out after my cuppa Tea .
Go for it
@@BundyBearsShed all done and back together tonight . Thanks for the tips on that . Saved me pulling the crank and probably doing a full rebuild while I’m at it
I've just spent 2 hours of my life getting that bugger out in little pieces, nightmare of a job but its very reassuring having such detailed videos to refer to.
Yes they are a bugger to get out when they have gone hard.
Yep...2hrs I'll never get back! Now to put new one in......need a nights sleep in preparation!
Hi from merry England Lance. Ive just bought my first tractor a TEF, with a sack-full of oil leaks to investigate. I appreciate that this isn't a TEF in the vid and the job may be different, but just wanted to say how much I am learning from your excellent videos in general.
Cheers and beers
Glad to help. The TEF is an easier seal by miles.
Rear main seals are inherently a bugger due to the flywheel mounting flange. Manufacturers have come up with lots of different designs for the seal, mostly a bugger to get in, easy to have them leak if not careful putting them in though. You made that look easy Lance.
Lets hope the bugger doesnt leak1 lol.
Dont know what we'd do without ya Lance, much appreciated!
You would get by Im sure.
Hello Lance, That was a new visual experience for me. Just looks like you have to be persistent and have patience. Many Thanks , Charles.
Yes the grease helps tremendously. It is a bit fiddly though.
Excellent couple of videos!
Thank you very much!
Thanks to this vid it took me 15 mins, I pulled it out towards the flywheel flange, then kept it still with a screwdriver pushing down on it, and cut it all the way around along the crankcase flange with a sharp knife, pulled the pieces out (which crumpled ofcourse) then whipped the inner bits out.
It is a fiddly job at times
Mr Bear, you still have not made a video about an electric tractor yet, this is outrageous! people are dying! how dare you!
I was going to buy one but the battery went flat.
G'day, Lance. Thank you for sharing this. i guess anytime one splits a tractor, change all the clutch parts and the oil seal once it's apart, eh?
Yes that is what I tend to do, you dont want to be in there too often.
Thank you Lance. Always wondered how that got done!
Glad to help, I was having a refresher doing this myself.
The seal i got supplied to begin with was a Vapourmatic - It looks like the Sparex ones are much more pliable from your video!
I managed to damage my seal on the first attempt - now ordered some Sparex ones ..
I have damaged them as well while fitting them, I always get two of them now. It is a bugger of a job really.
The Sparex ones are definitely a LOT more pliable than the Vapourmatic ones.. (they arrived today!)
- I went a bit overkill and ordered 4 Sparex ones to be on the extra safe side 😂
Better safe than sorry.
the rearseal replacement video is different from what i have theres two bolts comig in from oilpan on the bottom
You may havee a different engine thei is a Standard Motor Company engine.
G’day, looks like it takes a fair bit of gentle manipulation to get it in, I can see it being easy to leak if you don’t take care with the seal picks and screwdrivers and not taking notice the lip hasn’t fully rolled around. Engine manufacturers always seem to find the hardest way to fit a rear main seal.
Cheers
Peter
Yeah it is a bit of a fiddle but certainly easy enough to do. The grease made a big difference.
According to the workshop manual, the sump should be removed, and then there's free access via 2 bolts on the main bearing clamp. Its also recommended to change the seal on both sides of the rear main bearing holder/clamp once you are there. I've done this and the main rear seal is easy accessible without sump installed.
@@pvfos I have when doing a reco in the engine too but some dont want it done like that and thats fine.
G’day Paul. Thanks for the info.
Cheers
Peter
Put in kettle warm it up or billiebong good day to ya
Good idea I had not thought of that.
BTW, love that splitter track set up. too bad they are so expensive.
Yes they are, I have made them in the past using a TE20 King Pin thrust bearing. Ill try and remember to show it.
Another great video, thanks. When I started to take my 1952 TEF apart, it was slightly different. There were 6 bolts with lock tabs and no rubber seal as far as I could see. Is this because yours was a TEA? Now I'm stuck and unsure what to do?
The TEf has a lip seal so pull the round housing off and replace the seal, way easier job than this.
@@BundyBearsShed OK thanks
Hello, what direction does this put in the joint?
The lip goes forward to the oil.
I replaced my seal the other day what an absolute bastard the old seal is to get out. It took me about 1.5 hours to get it out in small pieces!!! there must be a better way?, the new seal took about 5 mins to put in however
There is a better way but that includes dropping the sump etc so this is the long short cut.
i have a 1948 to20 tractor do i have to drop oilpan to change rearseal ? theres two bolts comibg from inside oilpan /
I think the TO is a continental engine and different from this one.
Gday Lance, Bit off topic but would you be able to do a video on converting front wheel hubs from oil to grease on the TE20? Cheers
All of the new seals now a days are for grease so nothing really you need to do just clean, grease and fit.
Hello Lance! I have a TE20 (serial number 27495) with the Z120 engine. Do you know if the Sparex S41725 rear crankshaft seal which you used in this video will work on my tractor/engine? I appreciate any help you can give me, and I really enjoy your videos.
Not that I know of it seems to be for the Brittish engines. Go to Steiner tractor parts it looks like you have a rope seal like a Perkins.
@@BundyBearsShed , thank you Lance!
So just to clarify, the split goes to the top of the shaft, 12.00 o clock positioning? Regards 🇬🇧
Yes that is what I do, it just makes sense to have it at the highest possible place.
Hi Lance - this may be a dumb question, but can the rear cranckshaft seal be changed without draining the engine oil? You did not mention if it should be drained first.
It doesnt need to be but I find the old seal crumbles a little so it would be best to drain it and pull the strainer and clean inside in case some goes the wrong way.
Hi Lance, great videos, following your workflow to renovate my tea20, just had a problem refitting the bolts that compress the rear crankshaft seal, one of the bolts must have had a fracture in it and snapped off before I got any pressure on it, so could you tell me what the size and thread is for the eight bolts. Regards John
I think they are 1/4 unf but now Im second guessing that they were 1/4 unc so if it is a fine thread unf
@@BundyBearsShed thanks much appreciated
Is this the same as z120 continental
I dont think so but we didnt have that engine here in australia so I cant really say for sure.
@@BundyBearsShed yea some say rope seal others say rubber in tin case but few spanner’s later will tell the truth 😅
@@johnstevenson975Hey John, what did you find out? I too have the z120 continental!
Rubber seal but sump has to come of to as two bottom ones are bolts and heads are in the sump
Maybe dumb question, but what is the symptom of a bad seal on these? I have a 1949 Te20 and am having an issue with the PTO. I use a rough cut mower on the 3pt hitch, and it always drops down slowly so that I have to put a block or something under it so that it doesn't get stuck in the dirt when I start it. Is this an issue with a seal somewhere? Shouldn't it stay elevated after I shut it off?
Leaky seal is just oil in the bell housing and possibly a sticky clutch because of it. They wont stay up it is how they are made. when we get to the hydraulics I will show a fix of sorts for that.
@@BundyBearsShed Awesome, keep them coming 👍 Hello from Saskatchewan!
Hi Lance, never seen one like that before, is thar common to any other Ferguson engine ?.
Is the core plug we can see above left of the seal for coolant ? Maybe a good opportunity to do that too .
Thanks.
That core plug looks more like the camshaft blanking plug on reflection ? Cheers.
Core plug is as you say below the back of the camshaft. All Ferguson Petrols have the same set up I believe.
Yep.
I have a TE20 with a lever on the left side. Has something to due with the pto. What can it do?
The lever on the left engages and disengages the pto output shaft.
It engages the rear PTO shaft and it must be engaged for the hydraulics to work.
That oil seal is a miserable design and I have to replace mine I am not looking forward to that.
Once the hard old seal was gone the rest was quite an easy job, splitting the tractor is the biggest part of it all.
They could have come up with a better design to get to and replace that seal.
This was just how it was done 70 years ago but it is a bit of a pain in the bum to do alright.
@@BundyBearsShed im planning on buying two seals when I do mine because i know im gonna screw up the first one
Dont feel bad I have done that as well
7/16 arse????? 1/4 bolt 7/16 head AF //SAE wit Thread
Close enough.
@@BundyBearsShed good vid well done
Hi Barry. Thanks for making this video's.. Very helpful. I get the other Fergi and it sounds like this.. big end gone? Yes I know I shouldn't turn the engine without liners blocked. Haven't remove the sump yet... ruclips.net/video/gRUxbGqKCDo/видео.html
I think it sounds like either big end bearing wear or the rings are sloppy in the grooves. Either way I would drop the sump and remove the pistons for a look, you are almost there now.