How-to video on how to re-seal the timing cover and valve covers on Volvo XC90 V8 and Volvo S80 V8. If this video is helpful please like, share, and subscribe!
That was a great video. I too replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 05 XC90 V8 and am just learning that the timing cover gasket leaks badly. If only we backyard repair guys knew stuff like this in advance. Now, like you I have to take the whole thing apart again. My VIDA expired as well !
doing the job myself now as well, greatest about this vid is.that it proves it can be done with engine in the car. all rest says to drop it out of vehicle.🎉
@@tecjunkyard i even dit not have to, crank seal was nad, i did it anyway since seals were already hard(no leak nit broke in hands). valve covers, i did not have to remove them, i just lifted it about a 1.5cm at the side of the valve cover. then you slide timing cover under no problem. saved me timime fighting with valve covers gaskets. success
Only a 1/4 of the way through the video and I really appreciate the effort. I have the same V8 in a 2010 S80 and theres barely any videos on it. I’ve been doing a bunch of preventive maintenance jobs on mine and while doing so I noticed a little bit of oil in one or two of the spark plug wells and an unidentified oil leak thats visible from under the car. Hard to tell where its coming from or if its just power steering fluid thats currently brown. In any case, continuing to watch to learn more on this engine. If its an oil leak, i hope its the valve covers and not the heads. Good work, expect to hear more from me!
@@americanvolvo yeah or maybe the timing cover seal. In any case i guess its a good idea to do both.but that requires maybe more patience than I have haha
😆 I'm back, the sedan is getting a Timing/Valve cover reseal, a new Bosch Alternator, plugs, coils, Fuel psi regulator, o2 sensors, pvc valve and a front brake kit. The xc90 v8 is in the Transmission shop. The Volvo life...
Great video and commentary-best one out there for this job. I have a 2007 xc 90 with a broken pulley boss on the timing cover. Is it possible to replace it without also removing valve covers?
Hey at 8:34 there is oil in those little valleys between the two banks. I had oil there too. I thought doing the VCG's would remove it. How come you have oil still there after doing the VCG? I'm curious if there is something else sinister leaking on my V8 before I do the timing cover. Cheers. Also I really wish I had the hindsight to do all the jobs in one go. I should have ordered them all at once. I was concerned about paying unnecessary import tax on 4-5k worth of parts from FCP euro. Since I got the car I've had to do the: Power steering, valve covers, injectors, coils, engine mounts, control arms/ball joints/tie rods/shocks/sway bars/strut tops/engine stabiliser, trans flush, cooling system rebuild. My best advice to anyone that buys one that has not had any maintenance. Bite the bullet and order everything from FCP Euro and just spend a week doing everything. You will thank me later.
Mine had minimal oil there. It was mostly residual, not pools. This would be from the seals being bad for a long time prior to my fist replacement, as well as the power steering pump leaking before I put a new O ring in the line. Since it’s engineered the way it is, it’s a perfect place for all that to accumulate. Do you have lots of oil? I’d inspect the intakes and as long as there’s not a bunch of oil in there, it could only be from valve cover seals or your power steering pump. It also inspect the PCV valve and O rings. Hope that helps!
Great video! How did you determine it was the timing cover gasket? Were the VCGs leaking at all? Also, where did you get the procedure with torque specs? Again, nice job on the video!
Bryan W Last year I did the valve covers, only to cuss myself out for not doing the timing cover also. The cover was leaking worse than the valve cover gaskets! FCP Euro got me all the torque specs, but I can also post them on here for you tomorrow. If you have access to Volvo VIDA software you can get them there also. Just let me know if you have more questions, I’ve done two now with no leaks so hopefully I’ve figured something out!
Torque specs as follows: Both upper and lower intake manifold-19NM Valve covers-10NM Spark plugs-25NM Center bolt for tensioner-90NM Also, at the advice of a friend who’s done several of these I carefully used an impact to put the harmonic balancer bolt back in with red lock-tite. 5k miles and 4 months later it’s still working fine and not leaking:).
Aside from leaking oil and getting the underside of the engine nasty, what’s the downside of a seeping timing cover? Are the VCG more critical because of dripping on the alternator?
Why does Volvo/Yamaha use rubber for the valve cover and timing cover gaskets? If they made it out of silicone it would never be an issue. If an aftermarket company made them out of silicone I would buy them in a heartbeat.
thanks for posting this informative video, my 2008 XC90 V8 has almost 220,000 km and the valve cover gasket were never done, looks like a big job....wonder what the dealer would charge
zmanvideo1 It is a pretty big job, but I found it was very doable especially if you’re not rushing it. I have heard that Volvo independent mechanics often charge over $2k USD for the job with parts, so I’m guessing the dealer would be quite a bit more.
@@americanvolvo The dealership near Chicago are replacing my wife’s 2009 XC90 V8 timing and valve covers. Their price is $2,160 plus tax of course. I’ll try this job on my V8, just didn’t want my first attempt on her car 😂😂
@@csebastian71 that’s a pretty good chunk of cash:). You may consider seeing if there’s a solid Volvo independent shop near to where you live. I would think you could trim quite a bit off of that price!
@@americanvolvo It is but at least I don’t have to hear it from the wife. Got it back yesterday and have drips of oil on the floor. Took it back today. At least they gave me a XC40 as a loaner.
I'm actually taking mine to the Volvo specialist to do the same thing. I don't have the tools garage or time. To do that kind of job. And I have the s80 so less room to work pretty much have to drop the sub frame drivetrain unit to do this.
oh, and at 19:56 where did you find the "recommended Volvo procedure" instructions that you show? Thanks for all your help on this, again excellent video!!
That would be through VIDA (Vehicle Information and Diagnostics for Aftersales), which is basically the "shop manual" that most mechanics refer to when doing repairs on their cars. It's actually where he got his printout with those super-detailed images, torque specs, etc. from. It is a computer application that can be easily obtained. I purchased my VIDA from VIDA2GO on Facebook (found here: facebook.com/groups/1567127503462642), after talkin with Dave, who is the owner of that FB group. He's a great guy, you can reach out to him via FaceBook. Also, there is another device that us home mechanics use with VIDA, which is called DiCE (Diagnostic Communication Equipment), which connects to the Volvo's OBDII port and the computer's USB port. It connects to the computer, which will be running VIDA2014D software if you purchase it from Dave (linked above). I highly recommend getting the VIDA2GO + DiCE set from him, he's a great guy, $120 in total with free shipping, and the unit was at my door in 3 days. It's literally plug and play, since the VIDA software is really complex and old, and making it work with modern machines is Dave's behind-the-scenes job and when you get it, all you gotta do is plug it in and go for it! DiCE basically allows you to trace faults all the way down to their causes and potential repair sequences. It's 100x better than a traditional OBDII scanner, since it gives you the full access to every system in the car, change some personal settings on the car, and the best of all, easily trace and repair fault codes. VIDA has a massive repository of manuals that are tailored to your car, as the DiCE unit reads everything about your car it needs to know, and VIDA only spits out the repair manuals that apply to your specific car, model year, engine, transmission, etc. It really is a must-have for a Volvo home mechanic. Oh, and I highly recommend signing up for a free account on the SwedeSpeed forums (www.swedespeed.com) which is chock full of super-helpful experts on the XC90, including the V8, for which quality information and helpful people are hard to come by. Happy Holidays, and I hope this was helpful!
Amazing, so helpful I have heard about the Volvo VIDA Dice software but wasn't 100% sure. You have helped me to make this decision and I will get in touch with Dave via FB and get that equipment. I also own a 2005 S40 for my 17 year old son that I tinker on so the software and equipment will be super helpful. I'll sign up for SwedeSpeed too. Thanks again, Happy Holidays!!
@@sheuro-503 hello studhant, after researching the Vida2Go software and DiCe equipment Dave is asking for $100 for Vida2Go and $120 for DiCe. does that sound right to you? In your post you mentioned $120 for all just curious.
@@bryencass8260 Ah, shoot. Just checked my email conversation with Dave once more and realized I paid $200, not $120. My apologies. I got a $20 discount from Dave since I'm a high school student. He's a great guy so he was lenient enough to give me some slack. Hopefully, he can do something similar for you. I would appreciate it, however, if you didn't use my name when asking for the discount. Thanks!
Thanks for making the video! I've been looking for a video on the details of the timing cover gasket. Looks pretty similar to the valve covers with a few extra steps. I've got an oil leak on my passenger side and have to figure out if it's coming from the valve covers or the timing covers. Did you buy the timing cover seal kit from fcpeuro?
Ryan Luckinbill I did buy the kit from FCP. Only different thing I did was to buy the Wurth sealant which is $40-$60. I didn’t want to take any chances. If I were you I would to the timing cover at the same time as the valve covers. I made the mistake of hoping it was only my valve covers. So last year I did only the valve covers-but it was still leaking. The timing cover seals are the same material as the valve cover seals, so it makes sense that they would go bad at the same time. Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions!
@americanvolvo This a great walkthrough, thanks for taking the time to put this together! I am doing this job on my Volvo S80 V8 and man the space is even tighter. Quick question, how did you get the 17mm bolt securing the harmonic balancer to the crank-shaft out? I have been trying to get the bolt out and it's stuck on there (my cordless impact wrench is rated upto 300 lb-ft) , VIDA says the tightening torque is 360 nm which is around 265 lb-ft and it still won't come off with the impact. What worked for you? and how did you get the bolt out? Tried penetrating oil, hammering on it with a socket attached, but nada.
I would see if you could borrow a more powerful impact from someone, or buy one. Mine (a Ridged) is rated at 620 lb-ft for reverse, which has done three V8s now. I also used a cordless Milwaukee which was rated over 1000 lb-ft. Hope that helps!
@@americanvolvo yep yep, I borrowed a 1200 lb-ft Earthquake XT and it came out in under a second , hahhahah. Felt so good. Then alas! On the S80 , I had to raise the engine to pull the pulley out of the engine bay because there is no clearance ! Like whhhy?
@@americanvolvo What installer tool did you use to install the harmonic balancer? The loaners ones from Autozone isn't deep enough and I can't get a wrench in there to turn the driver nut on the installer tool. I am curious as to what approach worked for you.
@@dapineappledude8066 to install I was able to get the balancer slid on and lined up according to the key, then get the nut on. I used some red Loc-tite and my cordless impact with a deep well socket to put the nut back on, obviously not too tight. I know ideally you would lock the crank with the Volvo tool, then properly torque it. But I did not have that tool and knew a friend who had done it with the impact multiple times successfully.
@@americanvolvo Thanks for the prompt response! Ah, I see. So if I am understanding this correctly, you press fitted the pulley using the TTY harmonic balancer bolt & that flat washer as the pressing agent? So you didn't use a installer tool to press fit the pulley first? ( VIDA recommends pressing the pulley in and then tighten the TTY bolt) When I used this loaner (www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-harmonic-balancer-installer/p/oemtools-harmonic-balancer-installer-kit/391373_0_0) The pulley is too deep to get any clearnace to tighten the driver nut which presses the pulley onto the crank. I ordered in some 7/8 in I.D steel washers for now to create an ad-hoc spacer, hopefully that will get the job done.
Hey, Volvo V8 Yamaha owner and lover, 2006 XC90 AWD, 311hp rated, which has 95% power to FRONT wheels until the great Haldex system detects slippage, then gradually shifts power to REAR wheels. This also happens LEFT to RIGHT when the system is preventing roll over. Amazing. So how is it Dyno tested?
Replaced my gaskets as well. after a couple of weeks my balance shaft bearings are shot. Engine in the 12000 s/n range... So it happens with newer ones as well. It sucks... :/
Have you heard of anyone doing a performance build with the V8? Since i have it pulled I'm kinda inserted in doing something to give it a bit more snort.
I have only seen the Polestar build back in 2014ish, as well as the Noble super car. I have removed the rear muffler, and I know SwedeSource is planning to make a higher flow air filter, but Im not sure there is much else without some major customization.
@@americanvolvo the engine itself is strong and stout no reason to tinker with it. However, sometimes mo power is the reason. Aftermarket internal components could be hard to come by
@ammericanvolvo would you be able to share with me the exact places where to use the RTV? I'm getting ready to take off the timing cover today and will re-installl the new one this weekend but that part I'm confused about and do not have a ViDa Dice unit just yet. There is some controversy about using RTV in addition to the "seals" however there seems to be a few places that align, without seals that require RTV. Thanks in advance
If you have VIDA, it shows in there, otherwise I will do my best to explain. I only put the Wurth super RTV on, and I only put it on the cover in the following locations: 1. A 2.5 mm bead along the bottom(where it mates to the oil pan)-be sure to run it on the inside of where the bolt holes are. 2. 2.5 mm beads around the 9 bolt holes in the timing cover which have no other seal. 3. A small amount on the top of cover where seals are exposed before installing valve covers. I hope this makes sense! I don’t know if a way to upload pictures to RUclips. I may update the video at some point. Feel free to also reach out by email at theamericanvolvo@gmail.com.
trying to take the tensioner off prior to removing the timing cover it seems like it's a T60 mm hex however, there is barely enough room to fit that T60 in there did you have to jack up the engine to clear the body so the T60 can get in there? just curious how to access that better as the body is getting in the way of me accessing that bolt.
I used an Allen/hex that was pulled from a socket, then put a 10mm wrench on that, due to the lack of space. But, just yesterday when helping a friend, I did jack the engine up a bit, which entables me to get the wrench in better.
I used a plastic CTA 3450 set. They are less than $5. I believe the actual one was a light blue color. From my experience, it’s just whichever one fits well, push it in, and it should disconnect easily. I have used many different types through the years.
I looked up your tool, as long as it’s the correct size, and will fit back there it should work. The only issue I could see possibly having is the space back there-it may be easier to have the smaller style like I used.
@@americanvolvo sweet, thank you so much i ordered the Gearwrench one if it doesn't fit I'll get the one you used. i truly appreciate it and have watched your video over and over again getting ready to do that job. much thanks to you my friend!!!
@@bryencass8260 no problem, if you run into issues or have any questions please let me know. I’ve done two so far, and no leaks😎! I feel pretty confident at this point. Just go slow, take your time, it will be worth it!
The first one I did took me about 15 hours. I took my time and spread it out over several days. By the time I did my third one it took about 8 hours. I currently live in Florida but was in Iowa when I did this job.
I reused it. At the advice of a friend who had done several I put red lock tite on it. I know the proper method is to lock the crank and angle torque it. I’ve done four of them without a new bolt and with red lock tite. Obviously no guarantees but I think it’s ok without a new bolt.
@@americanvolvo Thanks for the reply. I'll give the red lock tite a try. Definitely don't want to re torque it and risk breaking it. Volvo parts dealers around me nor fcp euro carry this bolt.
You say multiple times that it is best not to rush. How long did this take you? I am between trying it or selling the car as-is. Quoted $1,800 from an Indy shop and that is out of the question on a 210k mile car.
It took me about 12-13 hours the first time. The last one I did took me about 8 hours. These V8s will run a long time. It just depends how much you enjoy the car! 😊
That was a great video. I too replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 05 XC90 V8 and am just learning that the timing cover gasket leaks badly. If only we backyard repair guys knew stuff like this in advance. Now, like you I have to take the whole thing apart again. My VIDA expired as well !
doing the job myself now as well, greatest about this vid is.that it proves it can be done with engine in the car. all rest says to drop it out of vehicle.🎉
I’m going to take this on as well just got a 08 Sport V8 and I have to change timing cover seal but I’m not sure if I have to fix timing cover as well
@@tecjunkyard i even dit not have to, crank seal was nad, i did it anyway since seals were already hard(no leak nit broke in hands). valve covers, i did not have to remove them, i just lifted it about a 1.5cm at the side of the valve cover. then you slide timing cover under no problem. saved me timime fighting with valve covers gaskets. success
Only a 1/4 of the way through the video and I really appreciate the effort. I have the same V8 in a 2010 S80 and theres barely any videos on it. I’ve been doing a bunch of preventive maintenance jobs on mine and while doing so I noticed a little bit of oil in one or two of the spark plug wells and an unidentified oil leak thats visible from under the car. Hard to tell where its coming from or if its just power steering fluid thats currently brown. In any case, continuing to watch to learn more on this engine. If its an oil leak, i hope its the valve covers and not the heads. Good work, expect to hear more from me!
Knowing how the valve cover seals are, I would guess it to be the valve cover seals. I have never heard of head gaskets going bad on a V8. Good luck!
@@americanvolvo yeah or maybe the timing cover seal. In any case i guess its a good idea to do both.but that requires maybe more patience than I have haha
On the s80 the heat shield on the back side of the motor can be removed for better access.
@@JohnRogers0014 Are you referring to the firewall on the S80?
Hey, do you still own the S80 V8?
😆 I'm back, the sedan is getting a Timing/Valve cover reseal, a new Bosch Alternator, plugs, coils, Fuel psi regulator, o2 sensors, pvc valve and a front brake kit. The xc90 v8 is in the Transmission shop.
The Volvo life...
Thanks for making this video!
thx for sharing, nice video
Thank you! Glad it helped.
Great video and commentary-best one out there for this job.
I have a 2007 xc 90 with a broken pulley boss on the timing cover. Is it possible to replace it without also removing valve covers?
You only need to remove the front one
@@manitobaerial did you find out if the cover can be removed without valve cover. Tensioner bolt hole broke from cover
Hey at 8:34 there is oil in those little valleys between the two banks. I had oil there too. I thought doing the VCG's would remove it.
How come you have oil still there after doing the VCG? I'm curious if there is something else sinister leaking on my V8 before I do the timing cover. Cheers.
Also I really wish I had the hindsight to do all the jobs in one go. I should have ordered them all at once. I was concerned about paying unnecessary import tax on 4-5k worth of parts from FCP euro.
Since I got the car I've had to do the: Power steering, valve covers, injectors, coils, engine mounts, control arms/ball joints/tie rods/shocks/sway bars/strut tops/engine stabiliser, trans flush, cooling system rebuild.
My best advice to anyone that buys one that has not had any maintenance. Bite the bullet and order everything from FCP Euro and just spend a week doing everything. You will thank me later.
Mine had minimal oil there. It was mostly residual, not pools. This would be from the seals being bad for a long time prior to my fist replacement, as well as the power steering pump leaking before I put a new O ring in the line. Since it’s engineered the way it is, it’s a perfect place for all that to accumulate. Do you have lots of oil? I’d inspect the intakes and as long as there’s not a bunch of oil in there, it could only be from valve cover seals or your power steering pump. It also inspect the PCV valve and O rings. Hope that helps!
Thank you brother, your advice will be used.
Great video! How did you determine it was the timing cover gasket? Were the VCGs leaking at all? Also, where did you get the procedure with torque specs? Again, nice job on the video!
Bryan W Last year I did the valve covers, only to cuss myself out for not doing the timing cover also. The cover was leaking worse than the valve cover gaskets! FCP Euro got me all the torque specs, but I can also post them on here for you tomorrow. If you have access to Volvo VIDA software you can get them there also. Just let me know if you have more questions, I’ve done two now with no leaks so hopefully I’ve figured something out!
Torque specs as follows:
Both upper and lower intake manifold-19NM
Valve covers-10NM
Spark plugs-25NM
Center bolt for tensioner-90NM
Also, at the advice of a friend who’s done several of these I carefully used an impact to put the harmonic balancer bolt back in with red lock-tite. 5k miles and 4 months later it’s still working fine and not leaking:).
Aside from leaking oil and getting the underside of the engine nasty, what’s the downside of a seeping timing cover? Are the VCG more critical because of dripping on the alternator?
Why does Volvo/Yamaha use rubber for the valve cover and timing cover gaskets? If they made it out of silicone it would never be an issue. If an aftermarket company made them out of silicone I would buy them in a heartbeat.
Me too, in all that glory!
thanks for posting this informative video, my 2008 XC90 V8 has almost 220,000 km and the valve cover gasket were never done, looks like a big job....wonder what the dealer would charge
zmanvideo1 It is a pretty big job, but I found it was very doable especially if you’re not rushing it. I have heard that Volvo independent mechanics often charge over $2k USD for the job with parts, so I’m guessing the dealer would be quite a bit more.
@@americanvolvo wow, that is insane, thanks for the info, i will check for any leaks at my next oil change.
@@americanvolvo The dealership near Chicago are replacing my wife’s 2009 XC90 V8 timing and valve covers. Their price is $2,160 plus tax of course. I’ll try this job on my V8, just didn’t want my first attempt on her car 😂😂
@@csebastian71 that’s a pretty good chunk of cash:). You may consider seeing if there’s a solid Volvo independent shop near to where you live. I would think you could trim quite a bit off of that price!
@@americanvolvo It is but at least I don’t have to hear it from the wife. Got it back yesterday and have drips of oil on the floor. Took it back today. At least they gave me a XC40 as a loaner.
I'm actually taking mine to the Volvo specialist to do the same thing. I don't have the tools garage or time. To do that kind of job. And I have the s80 so less room to work pretty much have to drop the sub frame drivetrain unit to do this.
For anyone reading this you can do the same on S80 w/o droping the frame.
oh, and at 19:56 where did you find the "recommended Volvo procedure" instructions that you show? Thanks for all your help on this, again excellent video!!
That would be through VIDA (Vehicle Information and Diagnostics for Aftersales), which is basically the "shop manual" that most mechanics refer to when doing repairs on their cars. It's actually where he got his printout with those super-detailed images, torque specs, etc. from. It is a computer application that can be easily obtained. I purchased my VIDA from VIDA2GO on Facebook (found here: facebook.com/groups/1567127503462642), after talkin with Dave, who is the owner of that FB group. He's a great guy, you can reach out to him via FaceBook.
Also, there is another device that us home mechanics use with VIDA, which is called DiCE (Diagnostic Communication Equipment), which connects to the Volvo's OBDII port and the computer's USB port. It connects to the computer, which will be running VIDA2014D software if you purchase it from Dave (linked above). I highly recommend getting the VIDA2GO + DiCE set from him, he's a great guy, $120 in total with free shipping, and the unit was at my door in 3 days. It's literally plug and play, since the VIDA software is really complex and old, and making it work with modern machines is Dave's behind-the-scenes job and when you get it, all you gotta do is plug it in and go for it! DiCE basically allows you to trace faults all the way down to their causes and potential repair sequences. It's 100x better than a traditional OBDII scanner, since it gives you the full access to every system in the car, change some personal settings on the car, and the best of all, easily trace and repair fault codes.
VIDA has a massive repository of manuals that are tailored to your car, as the DiCE unit reads everything about your car it needs to know, and VIDA only spits out the repair manuals that apply to your specific car, model year, engine, transmission, etc. It really is a must-have for a Volvo home mechanic.
Oh, and I highly recommend signing up for a free account on the SwedeSpeed forums (www.swedespeed.com) which is chock full of super-helpful experts on the XC90, including the V8, for which quality information and helpful people are hard to come by.
Happy Holidays, and I hope this was helpful!
Amazing, so helpful I have heard about the Volvo VIDA Dice software but wasn't 100% sure. You have helped me to make this decision and I will get in touch with Dave via FB and get that equipment. I also own a 2005 S40 for my 17 year old son that I tinker on so the software and equipment will be super helpful. I'll sign up for SwedeSpeed too. Thanks again, Happy Holidays!!
@@bryencass8260 Yep, no problem! Thank you!
@@sheuro-503 hello studhant, after researching the Vida2Go software and DiCe equipment Dave is asking for $100 for Vida2Go and $120 for DiCe. does that sound right to you? In your post you mentioned $120 for all just curious.
@@bryencass8260 Ah, shoot. Just checked my email conversation with Dave once more and realized I paid $200, not $120. My apologies. I got a $20 discount from Dave since I'm a high school student. He's a great guy so he was lenient enough to give me some slack. Hopefully, he can do something similar for you. I would appreciate it, however, if you didn't use my name when asking for the discount. Thanks!
Nice work.
We have the sedan also.
Thanks for making the video! I've been looking for a video on the details of the timing cover gasket. Looks pretty similar to the valve covers with a few extra steps. I've got an oil leak on my passenger side and have to figure out if it's coming from the valve covers or the timing covers. Did you buy the timing cover seal kit from fcpeuro?
Ryan Luckinbill I did buy the kit from FCP. Only different thing I did was to buy the Wurth sealant which is $40-$60. I didn’t want to take any chances. If I were you I would to the timing cover at the same time as the valve covers. I made the mistake of hoping it was only my valve covers. So last year I did only the valve covers-but it was still leaking. The timing cover seals are the same material as the valve cover seals, so it makes sense that they would go bad at the same time. Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions!
quite good looking car!
@americanvolvo This a great walkthrough, thanks for taking the time to put this together! I am doing this job on my Volvo S80 V8 and man the space is even tighter.
Quick question, how did you get the 17mm bolt securing the harmonic balancer to the crank-shaft out? I have been trying to get the bolt out and it's stuck on there (my cordless impact wrench is rated upto 300 lb-ft) , VIDA says the tightening torque is 360 nm which is around 265 lb-ft and it still won't come off with the impact. What worked for you? and how did you get the bolt out?
Tried penetrating oil, hammering on it with a socket attached, but nada.
I would see if you could borrow a more powerful impact from someone, or buy one. Mine (a Ridged) is rated at 620 lb-ft for reverse, which has done three V8s now. I also used a cordless Milwaukee which was rated over 1000 lb-ft. Hope that helps!
@@americanvolvo yep yep, I borrowed a 1200 lb-ft Earthquake XT and it came out in under a second , hahhahah. Felt so good.
Then alas! On the S80 , I had to raise the engine to pull the pulley out of the engine bay because there is no clearance ! Like whhhy?
@@americanvolvo What installer tool did you use to install the harmonic balancer? The loaners ones from Autozone isn't deep enough and I can't get a wrench in there to turn the driver nut on the installer tool. I am curious as to what approach worked for you.
@@dapineappledude8066 to install I was able to get the balancer slid on and lined up according to the key, then get the nut on. I used some red Loc-tite and my cordless impact with a deep well socket to put the nut back on, obviously not too tight. I know ideally you would lock the crank with the Volvo tool, then properly torque it. But I did not have that tool and knew a friend who had done it with the impact multiple times successfully.
@@americanvolvo Thanks for the prompt response!
Ah, I see. So if I am understanding this correctly, you press fitted the pulley using the TTY harmonic balancer bolt & that flat washer as the pressing agent?
So you didn't use a installer tool to press fit the pulley first? ( VIDA recommends pressing the pulley in and then tighten the TTY bolt)
When I used this loaner (www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-harmonic-balancer-installer/p/oemtools-harmonic-balancer-installer-kit/391373_0_0)
The pulley is too deep to get any clearnace to tighten the driver nut which presses the pulley onto the crank. I ordered in some 7/8 in I.D steel washers for now to create an ad-hoc spacer, hopefully that will get the job done.
Hey, Volvo V8 Yamaha owner and lover, 2006 XC90 AWD, 311hp rated, which has 95% power to FRONT wheels until the great Haldex system detects slippage, then gradually shifts power to REAR wheels. This also happens LEFT to RIGHT when the system is preventing roll over. Amazing. So how is it Dyno tested?
Great video, where did you get the recommended Volvo procedures? Or did you print them off directly from vida dice?
FCP Euro sent them to me originally before I had Vida. I now have Vida and have access to the information through that as well.
Replaced my gaskets as well. after a couple of weeks my balance shaft bearings are shot. Engine in the 12000 s/n range... So it happens with newer ones as well. It sucks... :/
Such a bummer man. What year?
Have you heard of anyone doing a performance build with the V8? Since i have it pulled I'm kinda inserted in doing something to give it a bit more snort.
I have only seen the Polestar build back in 2014ish, as well as the Noble super car. I have removed the rear muffler, and I know SwedeSource is planning to make a higher flow air filter, but Im not sure there is much else without some major customization.
@@americanvolvo the engine itself is strong and stout no reason to tinker with it. However, sometimes mo power is the reason. Aftermarket internal components could be hard to come by
would advise against as the engine output torque is already hitting transmission's maximum...
@ammericanvolvo would you be able to share with me the exact places where to use the RTV? I'm getting ready to take off the timing cover today and will re-installl the new one this weekend but that part I'm confused about and do not have a ViDa Dice unit just yet. There is some controversy about using RTV in addition to the "seals" however there seems to be a few places that align, without seals that require RTV. Thanks in advance
If you have VIDA, it shows in there, otherwise I will do my best to explain. I only put the Wurth super RTV on, and I only put it on the cover in the following locations:
1. A 2.5 mm bead along the bottom(where it mates to the oil pan)-be sure to run it on the inside of where the bolt holes are.
2. 2.5 mm beads around the 9 bolt holes in the timing cover which have no other seal.
3. A small amount on the top of cover where seals are exposed before installing valve covers.
I hope this makes sense! I don’t know if a way to upload pictures to RUclips. I may update the video at some point. Feel free to also reach out by email at theamericanvolvo@gmail.com.
@@americanvolvo very cool, thank you. I shot you an email 👍
What is the Warning sticker on your intake air duct above the radiator? My XC90 does not have one.
It has remote start:). So it’s the warning for that.
@@americanvolvo Is that factory remote start or after market?
@@tomhaughton710 aftermarket.
trying to take the tensioner off prior to removing the timing cover it seems like it's a T60 mm hex however, there is barely enough room to fit that T60 in there did you have to jack up the engine to clear the body so the T60 can get in there? just curious how to access that better as the body is getting in the way of me accessing that bolt.
I used an Allen/hex that was pulled from a socket, then put a 10mm wrench on that, due to the lack of space. But, just yesterday when helping a friend, I did jack the engine up a bit, which entables me to get the wrench in better.
What paint did you use for painting the upper cover? It looks great now
I used VHT silver engine enamel for the aluminum parts and SEM 39273 Charcoal Metallic for the plastic pieces.
I got all the way to removing the timing cover and I can't get it off. I have all the bolts out. It is very frustrating.
Not sure what it could be. Are you sure ALL bolts are out-even the lower ones that go through the oil pan?
@@americanvolvo actually wound up being the bolt that faces the back of the car through the alternator into the timing cover.
did you use the Gearwrench 3321 fuel line disconnect tool for the fuel lines. Is that the right one??
I used a plastic CTA 3450 set. They are less than $5. I believe the actual one was a light blue color. From my experience, it’s just whichever one fits well, push it in, and it should disconnect easily. I have used many different types through the years.
I looked up your tool, as long as it’s the correct size, and will fit back there it should work. The only issue I could see possibly having is the space back there-it may be easier to have the smaller style like I used.
@@americanvolvo sweet, thank you so much i ordered the Gearwrench one if it doesn't fit I'll get the one you used. i truly appreciate it and have watched your video over and over again getting ready to do that job. much thanks to you my friend!!!
@@bryencass8260 no problem, if you run into issues or have any questions please let me know. I’ve done two so far, and no leaks😎! I feel pretty confident at this point. Just go slow, take your time, it will be worth it!
How many hours did this take from start to finish? Also what state do you live in?
The first one I did took me about 15 hours. I took my time and spread it out over several days. By the time I did my third one it took about 8 hours. I currently live in Florida but was in Iowa when I did this job.
Did you re use the harmonic balancer bolt or did you buy a new one?
I reused it. At the advice of a friend who had done several I put red lock tite on it. I know the proper method is to lock the crank and angle torque it. I’ve done four of them without a new bolt and with red lock tite. Obviously no guarantees but I think it’s ok without a new bolt.
@@americanvolvo Thanks for the reply. I'll give the red lock tite a try. Definitely don't want to re torque it and risk breaking it. Volvo parts dealers around me nor fcp euro carry this bolt.
You say multiple times that it is best not to rush. How long did this take you? I am between trying it or selling the car as-is. Quoted $1,800 from an Indy shop and that is out of the question on a 210k mile car.
It took me about 12-13 hours the first time. The last one I did took me about 8 hours. These V8s will run a long time. It just depends how much you enjoy the car! 😊
@@americanvolvo allot!
2000+ volvo seems unreliable .... sad
I would have to disagree-at least in my experience with P2 Volvos. This xc90 in the video has 260k miles and is still running great.
Maybe 2015+ but 2005-2011.5 V8s are the cream on top
Eww. ICE 🤮
Care to elaborate what you’re talking about?