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americanvolvo
Добавлен 25 май 2020
Volvo enthusiast
Volvo hub centric wheel boring DIY 4K
Found some nice Midir C wheels for my sons S60 T5 knowing the center hub would need bored out. This video shows how I did it, minus making the jig that was used for the job.
Просмотров: 172
Видео
1977 Volvo 244 rust free barn find part 2!
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.Год назад
This is the second of a series I will be doing on the restoration of this 1977 244 which has not run in 30 years!
1977 Volvo 244 rust free barn find!
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.2 года назад
This is the first of a series I will be doing on the restoration of this 1977 244 which has not run in 30 years!
Volvo 850 T-5R Cream Yellow Restoration! HD 720p
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.2 года назад
This car has been sitting for 7 years and we will be resurrecting it and making it road-worthy again.
Volvo CVVT hub tips
Просмотров 27 тыс.4 года назад
How to install and set Volvo Dual CVVT hubs easy explanation. 2007 Volvo S60 T5. Should apply to any white block Volvo 5 cylinder with dual VVT hubs.
Volvo V8 timing cover
Просмотров 17 тыс.4 года назад
How-to video on how to re-seal the timing cover and valve covers on Volvo XC90 V8 and Volvo S80 V8. If this video is helpful please like, share, and subscribe!
Since the VTT hub and sprocket are radially symmetrical, I don't see the relevance of aligning any mark on its circumference with the notches on the timing belt cover. You're not moving the cam since it's locked in the back of the engine.
Thanks for the reply. In reading several shop manuals on this process, it's suggested to drain the coolant from petcock at the bottom of the radiator. I didn't hear you mention this step. Did you find a reason to completely drain coolant to get the upper/lower intake off? Thanks
Thanks for sharing the great video. Preparing to do this job also on an '07 s80. When you removed the Harmonic balancer/crank shaft pulley, did you need to do anything about setting the engine to 'zero'? Also, did you do the crank shaft seal or was this not needed?
@@stewpeterson3331 no, it is a keyed balancer so you can’t really screw it up:).
@@stewpeterson3331 and yes, I did the crank seal. When you have the timing cover off it’s easy to do.
Thanx man. Helpful video
Just did my 2nd V70 with dual VVT. Followed this video again and worked flawless. Found a guy in Sweden that fixes the play (oil leak) at 120 usd (1250sek) each vvt, way much cheaper than buy new ones.
doing the job myself now as well, greatest about this vid is.that it proves it can be done with engine in the car. all rest says to drop it out of vehicle.🎉
I’m going to take this on as well just got a 08 Sport V8 and I have to change timing cover seal but I’m not sure if I have to fix timing cover as well
@@tecjunkyard i even dit not have to, crank seal was nad, i did it anyway since seals were already hard(no leak nit broke in hands). valve covers, i did not have to remove them, i just lifted it about a 1.5cm at the side of the valve cover. then you slide timing cover under no problem. saved me timime fighting with valve covers gaskets. success
Replaced my gaskets as well. after a couple of weeks my balance shaft bearings are shot. Engine in the 12000 s/n range... So it happens with newer ones as well. It sucks... :/
Such a bummer man. What year?
Thank you so much! Been a while doing the hubs on my other Volvos. Feel good going in now with current cam install. Great video!!🔥
Eww. ICE 🤮
Care to elaborate what you’re talking about?
2000+ volvo seems unreliable .... sad
I would have to disagree-at least in my experience with P2 Volvos. This xc90 in the video has 260k miles and is still running great.
Maybe 2015+ but 2005-2011.5 V8s are the cream on top
People have a nasty habit of making things sound more complicated than they are. Rotated the gears clockwise until the marks lined back up and sent it. No codes
How do you properly set the timing belt tensioner?
Is it safe to say that it doesn't matter where the cam pulley timing marks are if you follow this installation? I'm doing cam seals also and have dual vvt.
Well the cam sprocket should still line up on the marks at full right.
Great video and commentary-best one out there for this job. I have a 2007 xc 90 with a broken pulley boss on the timing cover. Is it possible to replace it without also removing valve covers?
You only need to remove the front one
@@manitobaerial did you find out if the cover can be removed without valve cover. Tensioner bolt hole broke from cover
Is there a reason you didn't pull the trans & angle gear all out with the engine at the same time?
Yes, I knew the transmission was not shifting well and the angle gear was also junk.
quite good looking car!
thx for sharing, nice video
Thank you! Glad it helped.
Hey, Volvo V8 Yamaha owner and lover, 2006 XC90 AWD, 311hp rated, which has 95% power to FRONT wheels until the great Haldex system detects slippage, then gradually shifts power to REAR wheels. This also happens LEFT to RIGHT when the system is preventing roll over. Amazing. So how is it Dyno tested?
Hey man!! Any updates on 850 T5-R?
I finished it, just haven’t edited any videos! Im currently doing a 97 850R
I'm actually taking mine to the Volvo specialist to do the same thing. I don't have the tools garage or time. To do that kind of job. And I have the s80 so less room to work pretty much have to drop the sub frame drivetrain unit to do this.
For anyone reading this you can do the same on S80 w/o droping the frame.
Anyone have suggestions for checking VVT hubs for excessive wear/play? *When I got my timing belt off I was a little shocked with the amount of cam gear axial & radial movement, especially on the exhaust side. Don't have any codes yet, and trying to confirm if VVT can malfunction without any codes present b/c engine seems to lack power compared to another S60 2.5T I drove. Thanks
They do wear out. I don’t know the best way to measure if they are good or not, but I have had them bad enough that the cam seal won’t seal properly due to the movement. My only option was to replace the hub then. It seems to happen more on the exhaust side also. One other effect I have seen is excessive noise at warm start up related to the hub wearing out. I’ve never heard of power loss though. Possibly check boost related parts. Hope this helps!
I won a 244, 1982, I'm in Florida, Kissimmee. You should keep the OEM wheels. They look great. By the way, great find.
I need to pull the engine with the trans out. Is it going to be easier to pull it from the top?
Honestly that’s how I do it. I have done one with engine, trans, and angle gear and pulled it out the top. Just go slow and I’d recommend using a load leveler.
Son bueno los Volvo
I thought the vacuum pump om the valve cover only came on '76's
I thought that thing was crazy looking when I saw it. I don’t know much about them or the years they were used.
After reading and watching other videos, I was never confident. Once I saw this video, I was sure and I tried it. It worked like a charm. 2000 Volvo S70 2.4 NA intake timing hub. Thank you for making it his video and making it so simple.
Wow! Lovely - my 78 has loads of rust sadly
If you want to sell it, I'd be very interested. Thanx in advance
What a beauty
That is better for restauration for me 😀👍.. ❤️..
That was a great video. I too replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 05 XC90 V8 and am just learning that the timing cover gasket leaks badly. If only we backyard repair guys knew stuff like this in advance. Now, like you I have to take the whole thing apart again. My VIDA expired as well !
Everything is beautifully nice only no one mentions the fact that Vida provides for several procedures depending on the engine and year of the vehicle. I think it misleads people. VIDA Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting For B5XX4TX (1999-2001). See Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting >>> ruclips.net/video/cqvItAiS4_0/видео.html For B5XX4TX (2002-). See Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting . >>> this VIDEO For B5244S6. See Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting . For B6XX4T (1999-2001). See Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting . For B6XX4T (2002-2006). See Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting .
so what happened to this car?
Sorry I haven’t had time to edit and upload more videos of the process! It’s near finished now.
So she is paying you to restore but not the option to buy potentially?
Correct. She may sell in the future but not now.
@@americanvolvo To me that's like having a beautiful woman you have had a crush on for years. Then she becomes your roommate and says "you are such a great friend...can go on a double date with me, I like this guy". lol
I got a code 643A a couple of months after replacing my TB. Turns out I was 1 tooth too far forward on my exhaust pulley. Thanks for the advice!!! I marked the top of my cover also so I could look straight down from above the cover and this helped me see it better than trying to guesstimate at an angle. So far... no codes! Because I was only moving my exhaust pulley 1 tooth, I tied the belt on to the intake pulley at the top and tied a shoestring on the belt to hold it tight against the water pump pulley. Then after loosening the Tensioner, I could slip the belt off the exhaust pulley, loosen the bolts on the pulley (cams locked of course) and move it according to your advice. Tightened it back up and was able to slip the belt back on the exhaust pulley fairly simply. Hope this helps somebody....<><
There are videos that make this way too complicated. I just replaced my CVVT hub using this explanation and when I transferred the pulley over I even just placed the pulley under the original bolt marks.
By bolt marks you are referring to the three around the gear itself?
I can not believe this was a year ago and I have no clue lol. It was my moms car so i don't work on it enough to even recall. @@nilssjoberg2522
There is only one big bolt right? and you set the position and then tighten that bolt? i really cant recall haha. @@nilssjoberg2522
did you have to remove the angle gear or just move it to get to the trans bolts. You show it still in place, how does the rear driveshaft come off? I'm trying to pull an engine from the junkyard, and that angle gear is in the way of everything.
You can leave the angle gear and transmission attached if you want, but I pulled it loose on this one if I remember correctly. The driveshaft is a major pain-I only unbolted the front, which is usually much easier than the rear.
@@americanvolvo Thanks. I got the rear shaft disconnected from the angle gear fairly easy, which is usually not the case on my fords, those bolts are usually on super tight, and the volvo came off easily. I ended up just pulling the trans and angle gear and engine together out the top, after which I could disconnect them all.
What paint did you use for painting the upper cover? It looks great now
I used VHT silver engine enamel for the aluminum parts and SEM 39273 Charcoal Metallic for the plastic pieces.
. I’m about to do this job on my V70 T5 dual vvt. My question is do you loosen the 8 millimeter bolts that holds the gear to vvt ? V And when you go clockwise to end does the alignment marks on cover and sprocket need to match ? then torque center bolt? Or is there other adjustments?
That is the best way indeed, I have always done mine like this many years before coming across this video and I will say what this guy is saying is right, that is the best way, turn it right till it lock… the best way once again👍
THANK YOU. There is one specific video out there which really threw me for a loop. If you're like me and don't have the "VOLVO CAM LOCK TOOL 199930..000011111" and just have the spanner for the camshaft alignment, like this video, if you were on here in a rush watching some of the other B5254 videos, one person says clockwise, the next video the technician says counterclockwise. Common sense would dictate that they are set in such a way as you explained in the video @americanvolvo however other sources are a bit more cryptic! Including Alldata which is of absolutely no help.
Keep the updates coming
Doing the same restoration on a Black 95 T5R. Swedish car parts has the seat skins. Wish you the best.
I got all the way to removing the timing cover and I can't get it off. I have all the bolts out. It is very frustrating.
Not sure what it could be. Are you sure ALL bolts are out-even the lower ones that go through the oil pan?
@@americanvolvo actually wound up being the bolt that faces the back of the car through the alternator into the timing cover.
Thanks for the explanation. Just a thought: if a cam locking tool is used and the crank is on its' mark, surely it would not matter what orientation the cam sprockets are re-installed in, so long as the phaser is turned/held all the way ClockWise and the bolt is correctly torqued. Agree? Or am I missing the reason?
Alex, I am not certain about that one-I think it’s likely that if the markings are off(like if you just put the hub on not looking to see if the marks on the sprocket are lined up to the timing cover) I would think you would likely get a timing code.
What is the Warning sticker on your intake air duct above the radiator? My XC90 does not have one.
It has remote start:). So it’s the warning for that.
@@americanvolvo Is that factory remote start or after market?
@@tomhaughton710 aftermarket.
Why does Volvo/Yamaha use rubber for the valve cover and timing cover gaskets? If they made it out of silicone it would never be an issue. If an aftermarket company made them out of silicone I would buy them in a heartbeat.
Me too, in all that glory!
I'm just doing the belt on my 2006 S60, do I need to mess with the hubs, or just set align the marks replace belt and go on? I have watched countless videos and each has a diff version of the procedure when I know there is only ONE correct procedure. Its frustrating as hell. I just want to a belt component and WP job.
Turn the crank a little after the mark then move the crank back so it's aligned. Check the cams so it's aligned and change timing belt.
You don’t need to mess with the hubs other than if you get the belt off and you move them while/after the belt is off. Align the marks on the crank, and be sure the camshaft sprockets line up with the marks on the plastic timing cover. Sometimes they are a tiny bit off-as long as the car was running well with no codes I always put it back where it was. FCP Euro has a good video with the process for doing this job. Hope this helps!
VVT explained simple and perfect result, Watched several ones until I came across this one. Did exactly as explained on a V70 2.5 Turbo with Dual VVTs (bought new ones at 5000+ (Swedish krona) + changed oil seals at cam & crank. I placed the 3pcs 8mm M6 screws at the center of the oval holes, just for fine tuning later (but never needed) Engine started and runs perfect directly! Thank you once again for the best easiest explained video 🙏🙏🙏
I did about the same, actually lined the bolts up where they were originally on the original Hub. Car ran a drives great but I went to visit my mom and was like "WHEN DID YOUR CEL COME ON??" she swears it was off till I got in the car so for a couple hundred miles it was fine. Im wondering how you would have gone about "fine tuning" do you have a VIDA computer or a way to see how the timeing is out of adjustment?
The fine tuning was just something I read when I was browsing around bfr I found this video. I only did as explained here and it's still running perfect.
😆 I'm back, the sedan is getting a Timing/Valve cover reseal, a new Bosch Alternator, plugs, coils, Fuel psi regulator, o2 sensors, pvc valve and a front brake kit. The xc90 v8 is in the Transmission shop. The Volvo life...