Something I learnt yesterday while putting lowering springs on my car after being cheap and not buying spring compressors. I figured out you can put the strut and spring back together and put it back into place, then put a bottle jack under the strut and Jack the strut up so it compresses the coil, the put the nut back on the top. Then just remove the strut and tighten them just instal as normal. It literally ads like 5 mins to the overall job time.
Removal and installation: compress with a floor jack or bottle jack. Remove bolts. Unload spring with into the jack. Reverse to assemble. If you are nervous you can put the spring compressor on after you have compressed the spring with the jack.
Thanks for this informative demonstration. I like your backup safety idea but I think that racheting straps (with a high load rating) would work better than wire.
of course I do it, just now, he scratch the painting of the spring, witch will brake sooner than its intended lifetime, and a lot of bulshit in the video like transmission fluid on bolts, put the fluid even without cleaning the dirt.... just a junk video
Is it normal to have some difference when it comes to the wheel-to-fender gap? I have a 2017 Honda HR-V that I use as my daily and that I recently had suspension parts replaced (including tie rod ends, rack ends, lower control arms and ball joints, shock absorbers) and I only just noticed (after 7 years lol, not really sure if this was a problem before) that the left side has a shorter wheel-to-fender gap compared to the right side. The difference at the front is around 1/4 inch or 6.35 mm and the rear is around 1/8 inch or 3.175 mm from my measurements. For the record, the car rides relatively fine after the replacements.
I feared for your life seeing u use those clamps, if u are a beginner u should pay a little more on a propper spring tensioner, unless u want to get hit in the face by a spring.
You are right. That wire would never hold that spring and would snap like spaghetti, possibly blinding anyone nearby. VERY DANGEROUS. Not to mention the flying spring if things went bad. Having said that, those spring compressors are reliable, used properly.
I agree with Terry that the wire is NO PROTECTION AT ALL for these springs, it's really more a danger than a safety measure. I am not a fan of this type of spring compressor though, i've used them and was scared every time. In my opinion, and only my opinion, is I'd rather spend the money for a safer (note, safer not guaranteed safe) unit like a Branick. If not that, then potentially buy a quick strut (even though in my experience the springs are thinner than OEM), and lastly would even pay a good shop to do the work............ versus taking, what is in my opinion, a dangerous chance with the amount of tension on these springs.
best mechanic ever. keep up the good job. learnt a lot form your videos.
Something I learnt yesterday while putting lowering springs on my car after being cheap and not buying spring compressors. I figured out you can put the strut and spring back together and put it back into place, then put a bottle jack under the strut and Jack the strut up so it compresses the coil, the put the nut back on the top. Then just remove the strut and tighten them just instal as normal. It literally ads like 5 mins to the overall job time.
Removal and installation: compress with a floor jack or bottle jack. Remove bolts. Unload spring with into the jack. Reverse to assemble. If you are nervous you can put the spring compressor on after you have compressed the spring with the jack.
Thanks for this informative demonstration.
I like your backup safety idea but I think that racheting straps (with a high load rating) would work better than wire.
How could 5 people give this great coil spring video the thumbs down.?
of course I do it, just now, he scratch the painting of the spring, witch will brake sooner than its intended lifetime, and a lot of bulshit in the video like transmission fluid on bolts, put the fluid even without cleaning the dirt.... just a junk video
Thanks. The use of the safety wire is a good idea. I would buy a used complete strut assembly so I wouldn't have to touch the spring.
Good advice, very wise directions: take care of your tools and they'll take care of you!
Is it normal to have some difference when it comes to the wheel-to-fender gap? I have a 2017 Honda HR-V that I use as my daily and that I recently had suspension parts replaced (including tie rod ends, rack ends, lower control arms and ball joints, shock absorbers) and I only just noticed (after 7 years lol, not really sure if this was a problem before) that the left side has a shorter wheel-to-fender gap compared to the right side. The difference at the front is around 1/4 inch or 6.35 mm and the rear is around 1/8 inch or 3.175 mm from my measurements. For the record, the car rides relatively fine after the replacements.
I never had anti seize but I've always had axle grease laying around and I've always used that. I need to really by anti seize
Can I use copper wire to hold the driver side door that is falling
very nicely explained.
Wouldn’t you have to replace both springs for maximum safety?
do you think its safe for Smart people who've never compressed a spring before to do it?
Super video. Thanks!
Is the company that made your coil spring compressor still making them and if so what is their name?
That looks very familliar to me, since I replaced the passenger side rear on my A4 B5 two days ago
Entertaining and useful. Thumbs up!
great video!!!
That wasn't ETCG!
Was that car under the sea for 100 years? WTF
Driving on roads with salt spread all over them has the same effect, unfortunately.
Get me some spring work
Your smart and funny. You should go into politics.
I feared for your life seeing u use those clamps, if u are a beginner u should pay a little more on a propper spring tensioner, unless u want to get hit in the face by a spring.
You are right. That wire would never hold that spring and would snap like spaghetti, possibly blinding anyone nearby. VERY DANGEROUS. Not to mention the flying spring if things went bad. Having said that, those spring compressors are reliable, used properly.
I agree with Terry that the wire is NO PROTECTION AT ALL for these springs, it's really more a danger than a safety measure. I am not a fan of this type of spring compressor though, i've used them and was scared every time. In my opinion, and only my opinion, is I'd rather spend the money for a safer (note, safer not guaranteed safe) unit like a Branick. If not that, then potentially buy a quick strut (even though in my experience the springs are thinner than OEM), and lastly would even pay a good shop to do the work............ versus taking, what is in my opinion, a dangerous chance with the amount of tension on these springs.
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Hbn