Thank You for this well-detailed HOW TO video when trying to fix a rotted or compromised window frame sash as illustrated in this awesome video upload. Definitely liked your choice of hand tools and methods in order to reconstruct this base part of your window frame back to its original, finished form......many thanks Mate!!!
Just for anyone else learning to fill rot holes. It's a common tip to use wood hardener before filling to restore or increase the durability of the wood around the rot after removing it. For the North Americans, if you can't find Builder's Bog, Abatron and Bondo from 3M also do the trick.
Having the right tools makes it an easier job. Next time I do this, I want the tools that you have. Excellent video, clear explanation, clear tasks, nice camerawork. One of the better videos on doing this.
One thing I use when making up a small formwork. Instead of masking tape, I use Teflon tape to the edge of my timber. It releases quickly and I reuse it over and over because the bog just won't stick to it.
Super awesome vid with great practical tips. The formwork one is going to be a lifesaver for me. I've gotta reconstruct the bottom edge of a window that must have been sitting in water for a long time and this is going to help me get that edge absolutely perfect. Thank you so much!!!
Very satisfying to watch, thank you. I have used car repair Bondo in the past with good results. I will have to look into the product you used as it seemed similar. I would recommend wearing a mask while sanding however, that stuff is nasty on the lungs if/when inhaled.
Nice job and excellent video. There’s always many ways to do a repair like that, mine would be a little different. I would have trimmed the shallow end of the window with a sharp chisel, say to about 4 mm worth of depth, which would give me a flat platform to lay in a strip out of that nice white wood you used as a guide. It would look something like a paint stirrer only longer. I would have made the filler strip the width of that window area and the length from left to the vertical edge. I would have clamped and glued it into place, maybe added a couple of very small brad nails and carefully tack nailed into place. That would give me a perfect top and edge that I wouldn’t have to create with the ‘bog.’ Then, I would have filled in beneath that filler strip and the large gouge on the stile, sanded, painted and be done. Just another way to approach this type of damage. I’ve done this type of repair many times using this method with 100 % success.
GoJo, you did an excellent job and what brought me to this video is that I have a couple of rotted window sills that need to be repaired and after watching this video, they should be much easier to restore.
This was a very good video. The tips are real world. covering the sanding block, the stick and tape for straight line. Nice work. What was the top coat made of? Do you feel confident the condensation won't still leak in? I have an o/s sill to repair, that I do not want to do, but cannot find anyone who will replace it.
That's great, One of the best tutorials I've seen. I am about to tackle this job myself be it on a larger area on some window sills. Some other tutorials I've watched suggest leaving a lot of the rotted wood in place and to use a "wood hardener" then finish it off as you have done. Can anyone comment on this alternative technice
Hi Geoff, great video! very helpful, I'm going to try this myself. Just so I don't have to watch the whole video again, can you list all the tools and supplies you used?
You do an amazing job with anything you do Geoff I tell you if I lived near you and you had a handyman business I would definitely be calling on Geoff if I needed anything done but then again I have these videos I can watch of yours so maybe you would be doing yourself out of business haha
Thanks for the video. Just wondering if it is necessary to use pre-mixed plasterers top coat (13:30) if I am using this on windows that are exposed to the elements (rain, moisture etc) as I see that in your video you are using this on timber that is predominatly shielded as it is internal. Also, is pre-mixed plasters similar to Jointing Compound (www.bunnings.co.nz/gib-plus-4-jointing-compound-4kg_p0441016 )? Thanks for your assistance.
Yes I used top coat which is easy to sand but only good for internal use. There are various top coats for external work. Most of them are pre-mixed. It is possible to not use any top coat. You just have to be more car with the application.
Pre-mixes for internal work over tape jointing are more for hobby users. They work ok and are available in small quantities. I doubt you’ll see a pro use them over a taped joint though. Pre- mix top coat is different. It is great for a pro smooth finish, and nearly always used by the trade these days.
Great Video! Fixing my mom’s door frames today...IF you clear rotted wood Out Entirely before filling it with the BONDO/Bog, does the resulting void in the wood need to have something stuffed into it so the bog can adhere? After rot is removed, is putting screws into what’s left of the rotted area an option? Regular screws?I’ve seen one video with painters tape stuffed inside the rotted holes before adding putty but would appreciate your insight and opinion if this is a plausible solution. Thank you for your time and video regardless!
Over 25 years ago, I had to correct a mistake caused by fitting incorrect doors, meaning the existing picture-rail and the moulded kickboards were cut 2cms too much. Solution was to fill the gap and shape the filler. Builders Bog came to the rescue. It is still in place.
I have similar windows to these and they should be able to be removed . You will need two people on a large window as you need to lift it to almost horizontal and push towards the house and it will drop down and out. When painting I do the same thing as it is so much easier .
I appreciate your video. Not to critique, but to add to the stablity of your artistry...please drill 3-5 then add screws to allow this resin to anchor around your project....peace mate.
Jose G what type of screws? Just long and wide enough to provide resistance for the bog to stick to? Thanks for giving me any tips since I am new to DIY of this nature with no one to validate my dumb, novice inquiries without charging me $$!
The 2 part filler you're using will not move with the surrounding wood, putting the ready mixed plaster over the top is further compromising the repair. This repair may last a season or two, but will fail as the ambient temperature and humidity rises and falls. For a more permanent repair in Australia you could use a product called Timbabuild, which is a 2 pack epoxy system, although my preference would be for products made by Repair Care, which looks to be available in New Zealand, but not Australia - the latter is easier to handle and shape, but both can be used to effect a one hit repair (normally incorporating spliced in timber, as epoxy filler not cheap). No disrespect to you @GoJo DIY & Vlogs you come across as a genuine bloke, and I was using similar materials myself when I first started painting exteriors and dealing with wet rot, then discovered the Repair Care range and never looked back. Although the epoxy systems are far more expensive than the 2 part polyester fillers, you save heaps of time having to build up in layers, and once more experienced, can produce a repair that needs very little shaping.
This looks great. I'm about to start on my own timber Windows. I thought about using builders bog, but people were saying it won't adhere to the original timber and will crack and pull away over time? Also, do you need silicone or putty on top lining the glass? I live in tassie, so I'll be waiting a while before I attempt this due to condensation being a daily issue (which would only wet things up all over again). If it can get away with using your builders big technique, I'll be thrilled!
Could be good to use some wood restorer in such a damp situation. It will help dry it out and also a good prep for the bog. Ask at your local h'ware, it comes in a spray pack. :)
I think you did an incredible job. I'm definitely going to redo my old rotten table. Thanks again
Thanks - glad you liked it and hope you do well with your table! :)
Well Done Geoff. We are the manufacturers of Builder's Bog. A nicely done repair!
Thanks!
Please send me a link to purchase this product and have it shipped to the USA
Thank You for this well-detailed HOW TO video when trying to fix a rotted or compromised window frame sash as illustrated in this awesome video upload. Definitely liked your choice of hand tools and methods in order to reconstruct this base part of your window frame back to its original, finished form......many thanks Mate!!!
Just for anyone else learning to fill rot holes. It's a common tip to use wood hardener before filling to restore or increase the durability of the wood around the rot after removing it. For the North Americans, if you can't find Builder's Bog, Abatron and Bondo from 3M also do the trick.
Yes, that’s a very important point. Thank you 😊
yes
Having the right tools makes it an easier job. Next time I do this, I want the tools that you have. Excellent video, clear explanation, clear tasks, nice camerawork. One of the better videos on doing this.
Thanks
One thing I use when making up a small formwork.
Instead of masking tape, I use Teflon tape to the edge of my timber.
It releases quickly and I reuse it over and over because the bog just won't stick to it.
You are the first person I’ve seen using the scraper and the trowel. Great idea.
I would put the bog on first then clamp the board on and scrape off the excess that squeezes out .
Pro tip with that beveled edge. Cheers mate
Your use of finishing plaster is something I haven't seen before. Excellent. Thank you for an instructive video
WOW☺YOU DID A AMAZING JOB.I ENJOYED THIS VIDEO.
Super awesome vid with great practical tips. The formwork one is going to be a lifesaver for me. I've gotta reconstruct the bottom edge of a window that must have been sitting in water for a long time and this is going to help me get that edge absolutely perfect. Thank you so much!!!
Very satisfying to watch, thank you. I have used car repair Bondo in the past with good results. I will have to look into the product you used as it seemed similar. I would recommend wearing a mask while sanding however, that stuff is nasty on the lungs if/when inhaled.
A beautiful truly professional job,
You made it look so easy....I have no option but to try
Nice job and excellent video. There’s always many ways to do a repair like that, mine would be a little different. I would have trimmed the shallow end of the window with a sharp chisel, say to about 4 mm worth of depth, which would give me a flat platform to lay in a strip out of that nice white wood you used as a guide. It would look something like a paint stirrer only longer. I would have made the filler strip the width of that window area and the length from left to the vertical edge. I would have clamped and glued it into place, maybe added a couple of very small brad nails and carefully tack nailed into place. That would give me a perfect top and edge that I wouldn’t have to create with the ‘bog.’ Then, I would have filled in beneath that filler strip and the large gouge on the stile, sanded, painted and be done. Just another way to approach this type of damage. I’ve done this type of repair many times using this method with 100 % success.
Thanks for the masking tape trick, I was thinking how I was going to tackle the same sort of issue on a couple of sash windows!
This is awesome!! I don't need a contractor/handyman to repair my exterior door frame and window frame any more.
Great!
Learned a lot, thanks. Starting a similar project tomorrow. This helped a lot.
GoJo, you did an excellent job and what brought me to this video is that I have a couple of rotted window sills that need to be repaired and after watching this video, they should be much easier to restore.
Glad I could help
Great video mate. Very instructional and informative. Thanks. You should have your own TV Show 😀
Wonderful video and a very good outcome. Love it.
Mate top job...plain & simple u just can’t beat experience....
Thanks
Great video 👍👍👌👌
I wonder why you finish with the plasterers top-coat. Is it because the bog won't accept paint? Or just to make it smoother?
Thanks! Very detailed and lots of useful tips. Nice camera work too - felt like I was there watching :)
awesome craftsmanship mate
Can you use this on chipboard?
This was a very good video. The tips are real world. covering the sanding block, the stick and tape for straight line. Nice work. What was the top coat made of? Do you feel confident the condensation won't still leak in? I have an o/s sill to repair, that I do not want to do, but cannot find anyone who will replace it.
It's a great and fun demonstration
Thanks
That's great, One of the best tutorials I've seen. I am about to tackle this job myself be it on a larger area on some window sills. Some other tutorials I've watched suggest leaving a lot of the rotted wood in place and to use a "wood hardener" then finish it off as you have done. Can anyone comment on this alternative technice
That looks great, I’m going to try this myself. 😉
I suggest priming the raw soft timber with some pva and water, helps seal it up and prevent rot in the future
How long did this repair last?
Brrrrriiillliant! Thanks so much!
Love your video! Great job!
Nice job! Would you tell what was you are using? Couldn’t hear clear. Thanks!
Great job. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for this. Super helpful and easy to follow. Quick question - what is the purpose of the plasterers top coat at the end?
Just to give a nice smooth finish
nice job... thanks (from England) for sharing :)
That was so awesome!! Thank u!!!
Learned alot!!
Please list products where to find??
Great job, your soo cool!!
Thank you very helpful 😊
Hi Geoff, great video! very helpful, I'm going to try this myself. Just so I don't have to watch the whole video again, can you list all the tools and supplies you used?
It’s sets too quickly for me as I am a turtle 🐢
Is there a slower setting bog-like alternative?
Good vid, well put together, thanks.
Thanks
Amazing job and patience!
You do an amazing job with anything you do Geoff I tell you if I lived near you and you had a handyman business I would definitely be calling on Geoff if I needed anything done but then again I have these videos I can watch of yours so maybe you would be doing yourself out of business haha
that was awesome, my house has issues like your window - now i have a solution!!
what happen if you use plastic wood or just wood fill?
Such a helpful video. Thanks
Thanks
You made it look so easy! Great job!!
Great job... Thanks for that... Now my turn to give it a go!
Hope it goes well! :)
listening to you speak reminds me of the amazing character Korg from Thor Ragnarok :)
DIY by Korg.
Why did u put white plaster over bogg?
Finishing plaster smooths out the coarseness of Bog
Good job Geoff
Thanks Kalab!
Thanks for the video. Just wondering if it is necessary to use pre-mixed plasterers top coat (13:30) if I am using this on windows that are exposed to the elements (rain, moisture etc) as I see that in your video you are using this on timber that is predominatly shielded as it is internal. Also, is pre-mixed plasters similar to Jointing Compound (www.bunnings.co.nz/gib-plus-4-jointing-compound-4kg_p0441016 )?
Thanks for your assistance.
Yes I used top coat which is easy to sand but only good for internal use. There are various top coats for external work. Most of them are pre-mixed. It is possible to not use any top coat. You just have to be more car with the application.
Pre-mixes for internal work over tape jointing are more for hobby users. They work ok and are available in small quantities. I doubt you’ll see a pro use them over a taped joint though. Pre- mix top coat is different. It is great for a pro smooth finish, and nearly always used by the trade these days.
I'm studying building surveying so this is very interesting indeed
Great Video! Fixing my mom’s door frames today...IF you clear rotted wood Out Entirely before filling it with the BONDO/Bog, does the resulting void in the wood need to have something stuffed into it so the bog can adhere? After rot is removed, is putting screws into what’s left of the rotted area an option? Regular screws?I’ve seen one video with painters tape stuffed inside the rotted holes before adding putty but would appreciate your insight and opinion if this is a plausible solution. Thank you for your time and video regardless!
If the hole is very large then yes, use paper. Screws can be used if you have something sound to fix too
Very good! Thank you.
Over 25 years ago, I had to correct a mistake caused by fitting incorrect doors, meaning the existing picture-rail and the moulded kickboards were cut 2cms too much. Solution was to fill the gap and shape the filler. Builders Bog came to the rescue. It is still in place.
So Geoff when you moved to Bairnsdale what things you can do in Bairnsdale?
Great video! I had no idea you could use something like this.
Well done. I notice the two detractors haven't commented on how it should be done.
Good work! When it's painted it will look like a new window frame. Do you ever use wood hardener?
Yes, when the timber is damp : Builders Bog Filler | How to Mix & Apply ruclips.net/video/ToMhJNh_g8c/видео.html
Thank you!!!!
Well done, great tips..
I think you just saved me about $8000. What did you use to get the wood out?
Wow..excellent repair!
Good job👍Thanks
It is very important to get the right mixture. Not enough hardener and it will definitely not set, also don't use in damp or very humid weather.
Good Job!
Thanks!
Artistry!
I have similar windows to these and they should be able to be removed . You will need two people on a large window as you need to lift it to almost horizontal and push towards the house and it will drop down and out. When painting I do the same thing as it is so much easier .
use glossy packaging tape to wrap your straight edge(used it in marine laminating/boat building) does't stick
Thank you!
Awesome!
I appreciate your video. Not to critique, but to add to the stablity of your artistry...please drill 3-5 then add screws to allow this resin to anchor around your project....peace mate.
Jose G what type of screws? Just long and wide enough to provide resistance for the bog to stick to? Thanks for giving me any tips since I am new to DIY of this nature with no one to validate my dumb, novice inquiries without charging me $$!
The 2 part filler you're using will not move with the surrounding wood, putting the ready mixed plaster over the top is further compromising the repair. This repair may last a season or two, but will fail as the ambient temperature and humidity rises and falls.
For a more permanent repair in Australia you could use a product called Timbabuild, which is a 2 pack epoxy system, although my preference would be for products made by Repair Care, which looks to be available in New Zealand, but not Australia - the latter is easier to handle and shape, but both can be used to effect a one hit repair (normally incorporating spliced in timber, as epoxy filler not cheap).
No disrespect to you @GoJo DIY & Vlogs you come across as a genuine bloke, and I was using similar materials myself when I first started painting exteriors and dealing with wet rot, then discovered the Repair Care range and never looked back. Although the epoxy systems are far more expensive than the 2 part polyester fillers, you save heaps of time having to build up in layers, and once more experienced, can produce a repair that needs very little shaping.
I suggest a lighter shade of pink on a hot day. It will give u more time to get it in.
☺ well, i am going to do this...and save thousands on replacement windows!
This looks great. I'm about to start on my own timber Windows. I thought about using builders bog, but people were saying it won't adhere to the original timber and will crack and pull away over time?
Also, do you need silicone or putty on top lining the glass?
I live in tassie, so I'll be waiting a while before I attempt this due to condensation being a daily issue (which would only wet things up all over again). If it can get away with using your builders big technique, I'll be thrilled!
Could be good to use some wood restorer in such a damp situation. It will help dry it out and also a good prep for the bog. Ask at your local h'ware, it comes in a spray pack. :)
slilcone and putty should not be a problem. In my situation there was no bog outside, it was all on the inside.
GoJo DIY & Vlogs Thanks. I was thinking of using Earls hardener first before applying the builders bog. Hopefully that'll help...
Why didn’t you put masking tape on the glass?
Yes could have after finishing with the 42x19 pine :)
Ever tried stodoys?
Yeah
Poor buyer 😢
Lol. All that work. Might as well cut out some timber and replace the rotten timber.
looks like automotive Bondo
Next buying a used house, how to detect repaired wood.
Technically, you should never mix or put a ‘plaster filler’ over a 2 pack filler ! Just saying OK 😨
That is automotive bondo
TERRIFIC!
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Well done. Great instructions.
Excellent, thank you!