Part 3- 2017 KTM Bottom End Overhaul- Crankshaft Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 19 авг 2020
- This is a series of videos which show how I overhauled the bottom end of my 2017 KTM 250 EXC engine with 456H. In this part I show how I overhauled the crankshaft by replacing the conrod, crank pin, big end bearing and thrust washers.
KTM OEM Conrod Kit: 54830015244
ProX Conrod Kit: 03.6323
KTM Inner Race Bearing Tool: 58429037043
KTM Crankshaft Separating Plate Tool: 54829009000
KTM Crankshaft Outer Press Jig: 75029047000
KTM Crankshaft Inner Press Jig and Plate: 54829108000
2017 KTM 250 EXC with Keihin 38mm + STIC & RK TEK Head
Webshop: www.tokyooffroad.com/
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Facebook: / tokyooffroad 
Авто/Мото
"I swore quite heavily for a few minutes" lol that made my day, imagining you cursing
You cannot believe how angry I was, especially after waiting so long for the jig. I still haven't received a response from KTM (via the shop). The KTM quality control of the press tool needs to be fixed, or others who purchase the tool are going to run into the same issue...
Excellent instructions and nice tools. I don’t even own a ktm anymore but thoroughly enjoyed watching this. Top job 👍
Mark, that was the best crank rebuild video I’ve seen. Nice job!
Thanks! I'm pleased you enjoyed the video...
I did a 350 Husky crank rebuild fairly recently and remembered your video, there really is no other way of getting the inner race off, so I bought one, worked first time, I now have all four sizes and I have made other sizes for other machines as well, for those who are about to do this, don't skimp, buy the tool, thanks for sharing.
Love the care and attention you put into motorcycle mechanics. Thank you for sharing
Thanks and pleased that you enjoyed it.
For a second i thought he had ktm welding gloves to lol. Nice job!
Crazy work, nicely done!
This is such a clear description of what is involved, thanks for posting.🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Very professional done. Its so great to have the right tools such as jigs etc.
Very precise job !!! Everythig perfect according to my knowledge
Nice work! After watching the whole video, I will go with the complete OEM crankshaft if I do bottom end rebuild. :D
Excellent video 👍👍 really informative and interesting, thank you 🙏
Good job 👏👏
You're the KTM master 😎
Great video . Great narration.
Great video. Great explanations. Thanks.
Those are some expensive tools 😅 thanks for sharing, amazing video as always 😃
Yes, not cheap, but a lot of fun to use and do the rebuild. As I mentioned in the video, the cheapest option would be to have somewhere rebuild your crankshaft for you. Pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Amazing job. I love videos like this.
Please to hear that you enjoyed it
Very nice video, thank you!
surprised that after 450 hours your bottom end was in that good of shape. So your 450 hours equates 195 rides (2.3 hours per ride) which is the average ride time per trip. That's impressive to say the least. Also impressive is most definitely, your abilities, tools and knowledge!
Another really good video. A little disappointing with the KTM tools and aftermarket conrod, however just goes to show your engineering skill to overcome the minor setback. Well done sir 👍
Watching this makes me feel better about all the $$$ I hand over the counter at my local Yamaha Dealership.. There is no way I could take something like this on myself. You on the other hand are a real Pro , well done
Pre-assembled replacement crankshafts are available for purchase from KTM if you don't want to rebuild your own, or have a shop rebuild it for you.
Just some advice on your pressing technique. Once you begin to press the pin, lift the ram away from the pin to remove any binding. This method helps prevent pressing the pin at an incorrect angle
Good tip, makes sense...
Thanks for this excellent video, my only question is how you figured out the amount of tolerance or clearance to machine that tool in relation to the crankshaft? Thanks
Прекрасная работа, все очень обстоятельно, логично и пунктуально рассказано и аккуратно сделано. Спасибо.
Any advantage in freezing the crank pin and warming the crankshaft web before assembly?
Incorrect machining by KTM? That does not fill me with confidence. Excellent video.
A question if I may.. can the bearing cage be removed allowing the use of more rollers, held in place by the washers ?
Please tell me which model is oil compressor which is installed in press. Thanks.
Nice job, as usual. Could you please report about runout measurement after assembly? I'm curious if it needed any adjustment. Thanks
Thanks. The newly rebuilt crankshaft runout,, with no adjustment, is a little over double the spec. The majority of the misalignment appears to be that the webs spread apart going away from the pin. Part 4 will show how I measure the runout and true it. I’ll upload the video the second half of this week (already Monday here in Japan).
Hi Mark, please tell me what compressor do you use? how many bar has power?
Crank hero 💪👍
Do you need to balance it after you put the rod in?
Out of curiosity, when using the plate to separete both crank webs, is it pressing against the plastic inserts of the crank?
Robert from kampala uganda it worked for my sturdy on thanks
Amazing video and setup (your press is AWESOME) what brand is it and it is METRIC on the gauge even better. I have used Pro-X crank con-rod kit before and OEM (normally prefer all OEM) as always seems to fit and no issues. ✔👍👍👍👍👍👍
The press I purchased from a tool shop in Japan. It's unbranded and probably imported. Supplied documentation was in English, Key specifications are: Capacity=20Ton, Ram Stroke=154mm, Air Pressure=0.75-0.85Mpa, Working range 80-1040mm, Bed width 545mm
@Tokyo Offroad, wow mate your a true perfectionist and i absolutely love your videos. will you be selling these jigs and crank building tools on your web site ?
Currently I don't have a plan to sell these tools. If that changes I'll be sure to make a promotion video...
Do you have a video on adapting your press into the air set up? I want to do that with mine
My press can fitted standard with air. All I did myself was add a foot switch...
Hi, Nice video!!
could you please help me understand, when changing connecting rod kit, do you go for over size pin or same size pin? Thanks
Same size pin. Pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Question: does the missus know you are using her hot plate? I used to wash my air filters in the washing machine - that was a good way to get rid of an unwanted missus too!
LOL. She would've definitely known if I'd used the kitchen oven...
With the installation of the big end conrod pin, would it make installation easier if it was put in the freezer for a few hours prior to pressing in? I can see the press deck flexing during removal and installation, a lot of stored energy there - engage safety squints!
The KTM service manual recommends oiling the pin for installation and due to this, s you could probably see in the video, installation was a lot smoother and less force required than removal. Yes, freezing the pin before installation might well make it easier, particularly if you are using a smaller press. Yes, there is some flex in the press, but I was monitoring the force while pressing and stayed under 7-8 tons at all times.
And yes, I always wear eye protection when operating machinery.
Did you happen to measure the difference in size between the crankpin and the hole it has to go in?
No sorry, I only measured the pin diameter
Great job....Why did you go with the KTM Crankshaft I didn't understand that?!!...
Thanks. If I'd used the ProX kit and pressed the two crank webs to the length of the pin (59.75mm) I wouldn't have had sufficient axial clearance (probably only about 0.45mm and spec is 06-0.7mm). To work around this I would've need to either 1) Press the halves together fully, then press the pin out a little; 2) Press on but not fully, measure axial clearance, press on more, measure, etc, or 3) Use a shim (about 0.2mm thick) placed at the end of the pin and press crank web on. I discussed option #3 with ProX but they said they don't recommend doing that. Anyway, I decided that I'd make things simple and just use the KTM which I had high hopes would press together without requiring adjustment afterwards and that turned out to be the case. When I use the ProX kit I'll make another video and will probably use a shim to achieve the correct clearance...
I have to overhaul my 525 04, I’m thinking about doing it myself but I’m curious if the special tools are able to be used on other bikes as well as far as you know?
Yes, many special tools can be used on various models. If you want to check you can look through a repair manual for the other bike(s) of interest and check the special tools listed.
@@TokyoOffroad thankyou I appreciate the feedback, also thankyou for posting the video, it’s awesome how indepth you went and I’m definitely going to watch more of your videos as I learned so much from just one. Ride safe man!
Truing isn't required when jig is used??Is the jig compulsory coz this Crank has tighter interference fit?....so that if pressed without using jig...truing would be difficult or impossible maybe....??
Truing may still required even if you use a jig. At a minimum you'll need to check the assembled crank and make sure it's within spec. If you don't use a jig you'll probably need to spend a lot longer truing.
Question , I have been looking for some of these special tools online. Alot of website the part number for most of the tools doesnt come up. At all . Where did you order your tools from
I purchased some from Europe and others from the US. KTM confirmed that the jig supplied to me was not correct and agreed to send me the correct one. But I'm still waiting for it...
When you say you have two stroke oil do you mean for the gears or premix??
I used premix oil (Motorex CrossPower 2T) as that's what normally lubricates the big end bearing as the fuel/oil mix passes through the crankcase.
And when I assemble the crankshaft into the cases I'll lube it up again...
Tokyo Offroad perfect! Can’t wait to see the rest of the series!!
if the needed to redo the crank pin spec, doing it manually instead of with air would be easier.. and or with small shims. underneath.
Yes, I agree. I should've mentioned that in the video. I would've definitely done it manually if I needed to make small adjustments. Regarding shims, I mentioned that to ProX and they said they didn't recommend using shims. Unsure why. The only issue I can think of is if the shim goes off-center and I think I would've used a shim if I decided to use the ProX kit, rather than having to adjust the clearance afterwards. Using the KTM jig (and correct length pin) made the pressing operation very easy though...
Tokyo Offroad, are you going to balance the crankshaft?
The rebuilt crankshaft definitely needs truing (optimization of the alignment of the two crankshaft webs to minimize runout) and that'll be shown in Part 4. However, I do not plan on changing the balance of the crankshaft, other than truing it...
@@TokyoOffroad yep, 'truing' is the right word I meant and I'm waiting for Part 4 :) Thanks
This guy is obviously a amateur 😁 I actually work in the carbide tooling industry and I completely understand what he is talking about and he is very knowledgeable
Not sure if you’re being serious. I’m confused by your comment...
Tokyo Offroad im Joking you obviously know what you’re doing
@@Johnr37us - I do machine a lot of aluminum on a daily basis (Tokyo Offroad webshop tools), but machining the steel jig (with the slot) was quite challenging. Would've been very easy if no slot. But I got there in the end and the jig worked great so am happy with the result...
Where in the hell did u find and purchase authentic redbull graphics? Cant find angwhere
I purchased them in 2016 when I bought the bike new. They were purchased from my local KTM dealer. I've since heard that they are only available for purchase if you have a factory edition 450 and provide the VIN. Mine lasted pretty well, but I'm now using a set of orange OEM plastics with DeCal Works graphics.
Tokyo Offroad appreciate it sir 👍
Can you tell the diameter of the crankshaft or the ID of your tool please ?
I measured the OD of the crankshaft webs at 117.47mm
When i press the big end, i got shim in diffrent size and put more than needed so i dont press it to far. The "bump motion" is more like than mm/bump sound, then i take out a shim at the time and press to get the correct messurment. Its not that fun to press the shit apart again.
Shim with the same size (just smaller) than the big end pin...
When I contacted ProX I suggested using a shim so that I could easily press to the correct clearance. Interestingly they said they didn’t recommend doing that. Not sure why as it seems like an elegant solution around the problem...
Wierd, pressing togerher is way easyer then apart. Those plastic stuffers get beated easyli...
@@jonkobronko2 - The big reason for being to press together easier is because oil is applied to the pin and hole.
What’s the name of the tool up you used to pull off the bearing carrier?
It's called: KTM MOUNTING TOOL F.BEARING, KTM Part number: 58429037043
@@TokyoOffroad thanks, I’m looking to see if I can use it to remove the inner race of a SKF BC1-3342B bearing. Can you let me know the insider diameter. Thanks.
@@robgregg4615 The tool is designed to work with 44mm diameter races. The tool is marked "43.9" and you need to open it by spreading the handles apart to fit on to the race.
I would have used .2mm washers under the ends of a pin to compensate for it being shorter than spec.
Yes, that's what I would have done if I decided to use the Pro-X kit. But it's interesting to note that Pro-X advised me not to do it like that, although I'm not sure why as I'm sure it would have been fine...
Amazing as always. What is "run out" please?
Thanks. I'll be explaining runout and measuring it in the next video (Part 4). To be precise, what I measure is total runout, which is a measure of the roundness of the bearing journal, plus how much the shaft deviates off center when rotated. The method used is to hold the crankshaft ends between dead centers (I use a lathe), position dial indicators on the bearing journal surfaces, rotate the crankshaft slowly by hand and note the minimum and maximum deviation on the dial indicator. Total runout is the peak to peak value from minimum to maximum. For example if the measured minimum is -4um and maximum 8um then the total runout would be 12um.
@@TokyoOffroad OK, so runout is how "out of round" it is - because the rotational motion converting to up/down makes the bearing an oval I guess? Thank you for answering (domo arigato gozaimashita).
@@AndrewBoundy - Total runout includes how oval the bearing surface is. But really that is only a very minor contribution as the bearing journal is machined to very tight tolerances (and roundness). The larger contribution is due to misalignment of the two crank webs when pressing them together on to the pin. This misalignment results in a wobble when the crankshaft is rotated. By measuring the runout and then truing the webs (a copper hammer, or dead blow hammer is used) the runout can be minimized.
@@TokyoOffroad Got it - thank you again.
One dislike from a bike riding carpenter who was rubbish at engineering 😎
I don't often swear that much.... lol
Crank press---Not Ready to Race
Indeed. Still haven't heard back yet. Not good...
Too busy winning in Moto GP, but I’m surprised at their lack of communication
Husky 701 - And they are doing a great job in Moto GP! But yes, if I hadn’t fixed it myself I’d still be waiting. In general they do a good job, but there are some things which pop up from time to time which have me wondering...
ジグの発注を5ヶ月待たされた挙句、ジグの寸法が0.3ミリも違うのは、もう怒っても良いと思います。