Committed II: Steve McClure climbing Rhapsody E11
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2024
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I.thought trad included placing gear
Rare footage of Steve with his shoes actually tied up.
How many other people had the thought come to mind, " Hi, I'm Steve Mc Clure...you may remember me from such rock climbs as......"
Sam riggs - Rainman? Overshadow?
Edit: appreciate the age of your comment
Jesus what a fall thought he was going to deck it man he has some balls
Great climbing & belaying. That guy knew what he was doing.
The point about the gear being pre-placed is not one of semantics. It is certainly harder to do the route placing gear than only needing to clip it. The way I've heard of distinguishing between the two types of ascents is red point for placing gear and pink point for having it pre-placed. The most impressive lead is the on-sight, of course.
No one on-sights E11
@@lucacycles8623 Ondra?
@@BennyH11 Pretty sure even Ondra doesn't/hasn't even!
Ondra doesn't really trad climb so I doubt it
@@adamcorbett1827 Dawn Wall?
It's on Dumbarton Rock, near Glasgow Scotland... not normally described as 'nice'
I know this is an old comment, but you’re 100% right. He looked like he was climbing on an extremely rare day in Scotland. Normally, on rare days like those, the children run out of their homes and gaze in wonder at the white glowing orb in the sky, knowing fine well that they’ll have a story to tell their grandchildren in the future. “I once saw the sun”.
lol! "Anybody next?"
awsome line~
Hi TheDuff1000000, 'Committed' is not just about trad climbing, Committed Vol II features some bouldering, sport and winter climbing. Also I think a route is still considered a Trad route even if the gear is pre-placed. I'm glad you enjoyed the clip. Diff
Its unfortunate but Steve didn't actually climb Rhapsody. He unwittingly went off-route on the final move (the one Dave took the massive falls from) making it a far easier climb. Dave MacLeod acknowledged this in his blog.
Sonnie Trotter on the belay
The song is awesome! Anyone have any idea what it is?
The black rope is Awesome!
Thank for the answer.
Actually, we have a different way to thinking trad. But the way we name it doesn't change the thing in itself. Also, I think that, on youtube and vimeo at least, there's not enough vids about trad climbing (any kind of ;). The English climbers have a strong and beautiful trad cllimbing tradition, so keep doing those movies, this sport is underrepresented.
Fred
He was just working the route with pre placed gear red pointing it, am sure it would off been removed for the send attempt
@theultimateshoe It's certainly ethically shaky, but preplaced or not it certainly gets spread out. I agree this approach seems weird. Should probably really stick with nails sport routes or fully embrace the ins and outs of trad. But who am I to question? Mclure and Macleod? I know that Steve Mclure certainly has voiced reservations about such a style at any rate and more importantly credit too them for continuing to push things forward!
The rope was behind his right leg, but he react very quickly to get that out.
@Welshwizard43 You can see Steve's sponsors by looking here: steve-mcclure com
@theultimateshoe Agreed!
tied shoelaces? this cannot be steve
that makes Rhapsody eliminate then.
I thought Committed was about trad climbing, but this is not, with all my respect for the climber, proper trad climbing. Trad climbing is when you protect the route while you climb. The way I do it, it's more like sport climbing. Placing the gear bring you to an other difficulty level.
Nevertheless, I loved this movie.
Did Dawes pre place the RPs e.t.c. Really really hard trad hard to do it.
sonnie trotter belayed D: and clibed next D:
Sonnie climbed it a week earlier.
c'mon steve
I dont get why people always question the belaying skills of pro climbers, like sonny trotter.
I bet he knows more about dynamic belaying etc etc than any of the haters.
Indian Face anyone? Only kidding, totally different scene. But pure evil!
dude had slack out onto the ground. not a good idea, unless you are trying to get the climber to fall under something. doesn't make sense on a straight wall.
The wall is over hanging he was giving a soft catch to reduce the force put through the gear to stop it from ripping and stopping Steve from breaking his ankle by slamming into the wall like Dave did
The belayer seems to be doing an extremely poor job. At one point he’s letting go with both hands, and at several points you can see him with his hands wrapped around the belay device (a great way to get your fingers caught in the device).
The people that film these climbs are rarely well versed on climbing/belaying procedure. When the clips are edited together, they are made to look seamless and in real time. However, he might cut from a shot of Steve run out 20ft above his last piece, to a shot of Sonnie belaying when Steve hadn't even clipped his first piece yet.