How to Replace Spark Plugs and Ignition Wires on a 2003 GMC Yukon XL
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- Опубликовано: 3 фев 2025
- Brian Eslick from How to Automotive takes you step-by-step through the process of replacing the spark plugs and ignition wire on a 2003 GMC Yukon XL with 5.3 L engine.
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for New ACDelco Spark Plugs 41-962 (8) + (8) Herlux Spark Plug Wires W/HeatShields WGM48 For LS2 LS3 LS4 LS7 Engines amzn.to/2rTLRa5
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for SE Tools 824kit Spark Plug Boot Puller Kit, 2-Piece amzn.to/2tFWuC4
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Milwaukee 2457-21 3/8-in Cordless M12 Lithium-Ion Ratchet Kit amzn.to/2rQz0q2
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Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brain Eslick. #howtoautomotive #AutomotiveRepair
Brian,
Thanks for this great video!
I too was replacing plugs and wires and had all new parts on hand before starting.
A couple things which I did differently that made the process easier (I think):
1) I removed the bolts (10mm socket) holding the red battery cable box on the front of the driver's side cylinder bank to allow easier access to the front plug and the temp sender.
2) Even using a boot plug boot puller, I still broke 2 of 8 wires - no problem since I had new and was planning to replace anyway. BONUS: I cut the wire off of one of my plug boots and used it as a "spark plug starter" to hand tighten my new plugs. I just inserted the new plug into the old boot and that provided a nice longer "handle" to get the new plug started - don't push in to engage the metal connection - just let the rubber boot grip the plug.
3)Passenger side cylinder bank - back 2 plugs: the oil dipstick tube is definitely in the way! I removed the bracket bolt (15mm socket), this allows the whole tube assembly to swing / pivot. Being able to move this tube out of the way made access to the rear plug very easy and getting the new plug started with my old boot (#2 above) was easy.
4) My AC Delco wires came with a lubricant which they recommend applying to the inside of the boot to help reduce the adhesion of the boot to the plug - easing future removal. I smeared it inside the boots using a Q-Tip as an applicator.
Great video - thanks for the excellent tips. I'm about to change the spark plugs in my Yukon and this video will be a great one to refer back to if needed. I especially like the idea of using the piece of fuel line as an aid to screw in the new plugs.
twhdvm glad it helped. Thank you for watching and writing!
+How to Automotive where can I purchase that tool to pull the spark plugs boot
Hello Mario. Her is a link for the tool you ask about. amzn.to/2tFWuC4 Thank You for watching!!
Thanks I've never seen the metal boot protectors and it threw me off a bit but thanks to your video I know what they are now
Thank you for being so thorough! Helped me out very much on that back passenger wire!
Would you happen to have a picture of the oxygen senses for that same vehicle
Nice and clear explanation . ✌🏼
Hello
I'm having a problem with the knock sensor in my 2003 GMC Yukon XL 2500. I've changed the original sensor, wire and refrigerator face three times, yet the Check Engine Light is still on.
The codes that appear on the scanner are P0300, P0332, and P0327.
I also changed the spark plugs with the wire, and used #41-110 spark plugs as recommended by the parts store, even though the recommended spark plug number for my car is 41-962 according to the chassis number.
I would like to know if the problem may be caused by using #41-110 spark plugs instead of 41-962.
Please let me know as soon as possible.
Thanks
Oh yeah I have broken off the temp sensor . LOL Well done, I like the pry bar and remover tip.
Huh that fuel line on the spark plug hack is pretty cool going to try that.. that's a little more gentle than needlenose
If I was able to change the oil pressure sensor on my own, do you think I’ll be able to get to the difficult spark plugs?
Why do these engineers make it so completed. Give me the old days when you could work without confusion
A flex wrench and extension is what you will need for spark plug near fire wall
Does this particular issue caused a lower Bank knock sensor2 issue as well? I'm going to change the spark plugs regardless but I didn't know if that by itself could create a knock sensor issue because of misfiring
Most likely not. Is common for the knock sensor to fail and the wiring for the sensors to corrode. They are under the intake manifold
Good instructions, you said unplug the sensor, I did and still broke the part attached to the block with the pry bar; tried to put it back together and computer is going crazy, will barely run, will have to replace sensor tmw.
I just replaced that sensor, now I'm thinking I should have done the plugs first. 🤣
Does it matter what order u go in???
The ignition wires have to be lined up with each well per cylinder yes. But which side you do for sure which order no
Hello! Does anybody know about the ignition coils in this process?
is the 6.0 the same?
Yes it’s the same 👍
Just wanted to mention that the front cylinder on the drivers side is cylinder #1 Not number 2. All cylinders one the drivers side are odd numbers.
Thanks dad! i mean homie!
Isn't the front cylinder on driver's side number 1?
I thought #8 was on the passenger nearest the firewall? That's what all the other videos say...
basslinin it is I think I was working on a ford on the same day in mixed it up
@@HowtoAutomotive a little late but I'm pretty sure you had it right. Mostly all v8 vortec have the 7th on the very back passenger and 8th would be very back on the driver. So 1st would the front passenger and 2nd would be front driver. I've noticed they've done that with mostly all the vortecs but it wouldn't hurt to confirm which firing order yours has for good measure
you supposed to zoom out first then zoom in so we could realize where you are working.
RUclips will not let me watch this video I can watch any other video on the internet it will not let me watch this one
phoenix ARIZONA I’m not sure what’s going on is playing on my end.
* H! Brian Eslick good Video !
// You must work on FORD's V-8 engines more-than Chevrolet's V-8 engines. ( Important Note: Chevrolet's V-8's engines #1 Cylinder is on the Front Driver's Side. ) Opposite for FORD's V-8 engine where #1 Cylinder is on the Front Passenger Side.
* * *
That's was the worst explanation video I ever seen