just a tip for future reference, when you change coils, take out the bracket that holds the assembly of coils on the valve cover.. just remove the 4 studs and the whole coil assemble lifts out. SO MUCH EASIER THIS WAY. I changed coils, wires, and plugs in 40 minutes. Also when you remove the coil assembly, getting to that back passanger side plug is a snap. Just one other tip, if you stand on front bumper, and position your hands correctly, getting to the rear driver side, and rear passanger side plugs is even that much easier. ive built these motors and am pretty good with any 4.8-6.0L engine. Great design and they last forever if taken care of
newls1 - I found taking off the plastic wheel well cover and wheel helped a lot with access to the plugs especially the rear#8 one that is a real bear. Thanks
Great video! I went with NGK plugs and Taylor wires. My engine performances has drastically improved. I’m currently at 256k and she runs like a champ.It took me about 45 minutes. Thanks for sharing with us.
Sounds like anyone who said anything about your camera man agrees with me. He did just as good of a job as you did. Good job kid. Your dad is lucky you help him... Thanks for making the video.
Thank you for sharing. I have a 2000 Silverado and this was very helpful info. I hope my son is as good as your son videoing when he gets old enough.👍🏻💪🏻
Thanking GOD I found your video. Your instructions are clear; and 10yo son did much better videotaping than most adults! (PS - Going outside to flick my 2002 Suburban headlight!)
Hello I'm having a problem with the knock sensor in my 2003 GMC Yukon XL 2500. I've changed the original sensor, wire, and refrigerator face three times, yet the Check Engine Light is still on. The codes that appear on the scanner are P0300, P0332, and P0327. I also changed the spark plugs with the wire, and used #41-110 spark plugs as recommended by the parts store, even though the recommended spark plug number for my car is 41-962 according to the chassis number. I would like to know if the problem may be caused by using #41-110 spark plugs instead of 41-962. Please let me know as soon as possible. Thanks
They tried to charge me 1200 for my Escalade for the same job. I ordered the parts from carparts.com for 277. And I'm doing this weekend. Very helpful video thanks.
Great video! I did this on my 03 Suburban and would totally suggest you do this with the passenger wheel off and wheel well covering off. Takes a little time but makes getting the passenger side spark plug bank from underneath sooo much easier to remove especially the back one near the firewall. Ignition coils are like 30 bucks each making that a $250 replacement. I am all for replacing things but I have 230k on mine and don't think they have ever been replaced. What is the signature for an ignition coils going bad or being bad? Assuming rough running engine with some associated OBD code? Thanks again!
Yeah i guess theres a way to test them if yah have even the wires as well. Or just screw all the tests and replace it all knowing you have everything new
Did my 2000 4x4 Tahoe yesterday Only ? Do u disconnect the ground wire from your battery or leave it as is...i disconnected the battery but for reference just asking
Great job!!! I’m trying this on weekend off. I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe that has over 250,000 miles on the same plugs when new. Still running smoothly. Where did you get the parts
Hope you had success. The parts list was in my description with location. I got the plugs at a local shop, probably Pep Boys I am guessing...been too long now to remember.
Getting ready to change my plugs. Was planning on going with the Delco but having a problem selecting the correct ones. Seems it depends on what number is stamped on the coil. I can't see any number on them so I guess I'll remove one of the coils and see if I can find a number stamped on it. Edit: found the stamp on the engine side of the coil after removing it. 19005218. Now I can order the correct wires. Edit: what a pita job that was. Who would think changing plugs could be so difficult. The rear passenger side took as long or longer than all the other 7. Maybe my hands are too big but there was no way I could pull that boot off. I even tried going thru the wheel well. I finally just put pliers on the heat shield and it worked. The shield was deformed a bit but it was easy to reshape it. I ended up having to use the same technique for 3 other boots on the drivers side. I dont know why some people say not to pull on the heat hield, it works great. The gap on the old plugss was over .60 so I was definitely overdue for new ones at 136k.
+Edmund Mendez - Hey there! I didn't remove the oil dipstick bracket when I did it. The plug wire took forever to get to break loose. I show the socket and wrench rig I used for removing the plug at about 9:50 in the video. Basically, as I recall, I just used my wrench and was able to break the socket loose (maybe 1/8 turn at a time), then used the socket with a very short extension and removed the rest of the way by hand. (no wrench - glove helps me grip in this mode) It did take patience and I removed most from the video because it took too long to do. (very boring to watch and listen to me grunting) :) I think the real problem is the proximity to the firewall and the angle of the plug and not the dipstick. One option I didn't try, might be to go from underneath the truck and come up from the bottom. Good luck man! Once you get that one out, it really is smooth sailing from there! Let us know what ends up working for you.
Also, as someone else mentioned, might be able to get in there by jacking up the truck and removing the passenger tire. I had that thought but decided to just tough it out and fight it til it let go.
Mentioned at 3:52 in video. 5/8" deep socket, short extension, long extension, probably also used a swivel and maybe even a wobble extension for the tough to reach ones...
The fact he's doing this from side makes me definitely wonder if my truck doesn't have a lift. I had to climb on top of motor to change oil sensor and plugs. Didn't get rear passenger changed yet because couldn't loosen it up. Need another extension or have to go through wheel well. Don't wanna chance breaking it with the impact.
It is a stretch for me and I am 6’2”. I now have a newer Suburban and I have to stand on a step to work from the side. You might be able to go through wheelwell to get back passenger one, but for the others it wasn’t needed for me. Do not use an impact on plugs, only coils and other bolts, if at all. Good luck!
Just search for Taylor Plug Wires on Amazon. I think Summit Racing and other places carry them too, I think I actually bought them from Summit Racing. I used the 8mm Pro Series (with Spiro Pro). They come in several colors. You can also look at www.taylorvertex.com/ for more info.
My theory was, they are electronics and electronics and heat always fail over time. I wanted the best outcome and least likelihood of having to do it again. (Failing coil, would foul a good plug fast).
Cool video, but you say in the description "total cost of materials was about $450", I'm just going to assume that is a typo, lol. I did like the blue color, my Silverado is blue and that would be nice.
Whaaaa $700? Taylor wires the 8.5 or 9 mm and the AC DELCOS 41-962 and always check the spark plug gap… BUT $700- it’s only an hour of shop time and that’s $170 - then parts is like 300 with the Taylor’s and iridium’s with coils. That’s only $470 damn. $230 they burnt ya
This video is so f****** funny this guy is like the biggest tweaker and he's trying to teach you how to Jimmy rig but remind me as if I would have made a video this would have been it lol
I would love to have a vehicle that ran on solar or water. I'll keep driving my 5.3L V8 until they get those ready for prime time. Maybe Tesla will save the day...Different mindset in the US for sure...I kinda like it....they sound sound with flomasters.... :)
just a tip for future reference, when you change coils, take out the bracket that holds the assembly of coils on the valve cover.. just remove the 4 studs and the whole coil assemble lifts out. SO MUCH EASIER THIS WAY. I changed coils, wires, and plugs in 40 minutes. Also when you remove the coil assembly, getting to that back passanger side plug is a snap. Just one other tip, if you stand on front bumper, and position your hands correctly, getting to the rear driver side, and rear passanger side plugs is even that much easier. ive built these motors and am pretty good with any 4.8-6.0L engine. Great design and they last forever if taken care of
Sounds like you know what ur talking about I need mine done wanna do it lok
newls1 - I found taking off the plastic wheel well cover and wheel helped a lot with access to the plugs especially the rear#8 one that is a real bear. Thanks
i realize Im kinda randomly asking but does anybody know of a good site to watch new tv shows online ?
@Jagger Marlon lately I have been using flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
@Jagger Marlon I would suggest FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
Great video! I went with NGK plugs and Taylor wires. My engine performances has drastically improved. I’m currently at 256k and she runs like a champ.It took me about 45 minutes. Thanks for sharing with us.
What NGK model# if remember?
Thank you for sharing. This video really did help a lot. Thanks to your kid as well for being a good sport and helping film this video.
Sounds like anyone who said anything about your camera man agrees with me. He did just as good of a job as you did. Good job kid. Your dad is lucky you help him... Thanks for making the video.
Thank you for sharing. I have a 2000 Silverado and this was very helpful info. I hope my son is as good as your son videoing when he gets old enough.👍🏻💪🏻
Camera man is alright with me! Thanks a million to the both of ya & God bless
Great job and kudos to the cameraman!
Thanking GOD I found your video. Your instructions are clear; and 10yo son did much better videotaping than most adults! (PS - Going outside to flick my 2002 Suburban headlight!)
Hello
I'm having a problem with the knock sensor in my 2003 GMC Yukon XL 2500. I've changed the original sensor, wire, and refrigerator face three times, yet the Check Engine Light is still on.
The codes that appear on the scanner are P0300, P0332, and P0327.
I also changed the spark plugs with the wire, and used #41-110 spark plugs as recommended by the parts store, even though the recommended spark plug number for my car is 41-962 according to the chassis number.
I would like to know if the problem may be caused by using #41-110 spark plugs instead of 41-962.
Please let me know as soon as possible.
Thanks
thank you for this video...helped me understand this engine and its parts better. thank u
One tool I can say you need is a flex socket wrench for the rear spark plugs near fire wall also extensions makes a world of a difference
They tried to charge me 1200 for my Escalade for the same job. I ordered the parts from carparts.com for 277. And I'm doing this weekend. Very helpful video thanks.
Well capitalism baby. If its a man or young lady thats not handy and doesnt have tools, 1200 might be worth it
Great video! I did this on my 03 Suburban and would totally suggest you do this with the passenger wheel off and wheel well covering off. Takes a little time but makes getting the passenger side spark plug bank from underneath sooo much easier to remove especially the back one near the firewall. Ignition coils are like 30 bucks each making that a $250 replacement. I am all for replacing things but I have 230k on mine and don't think they have ever been replaced. What is the signature for an ignition coils going bad or being bad? Assuming rough running engine with some associated OBD code? Thanks again!
I was seeing an occasional misfire code. May have been overkill. It still runs smooth as glass almost 4-years later...
Yeah i guess theres a way to test them if yah have even the wires as well. Or just screw all the tests and replace it all knowing you have everything new
So these spark plugs are for the flex fuel 5.3"'?
They tried to charge me 550 for this same work..ty for this I'll be doing my own plugs
Andis Carter ..damn 550..wow
Thats a fair price to change all of that. Tools and parts youre looking at 200 bucks. Do it yourself save some money and you get to keep the tools
@@TzUuup $350 for an hours labor?
Thanks for sharing!!! This video was super helpful !!!!
+Cbrione bri Awesome!
How the 41-110 plugs performed?
Did my 2000 4x4 Tahoe yesterday
Only ? Do u disconnect the ground wire from your battery or leave it as is...i disconnected the battery but for reference just asking
الحمد لله على السمع والأبصار والأفئدة
Alhamdullilah for sight, hearing and heart.
Thank you for the video...
To do plug 8 (passenger side by fire wall, remove bolt from the dipstick tube and let it sit loose
Great job!!! I’m trying this on weekend off. I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe that has over 250,000 miles on the same plugs when new. Still running smoothly. Where did you get the parts
Hope you had success. The parts list was in my description with location. I got the plugs at a local shop, probably Pep Boys I am guessing...been too long now to remember.
Getting ready to change my plugs. Was planning on going with the Delco but having a problem selecting the correct ones. Seems it depends on what number is stamped on the coil. I can't see any number on them so I guess I'll remove one of the coils and see if I can find a number stamped on it.
Edit: found the stamp on the engine side of the coil after removing it. 19005218. Now I can order the correct wires.
Edit: what a pita job that was. Who would think changing plugs could be so difficult. The rear passenger side took as long or longer than all the other 7. Maybe my hands are too big but there was no way I could pull that boot off. I even tried going thru the wheel well. I finally just put pliers on the heat shield and it worked. The shield was deformed a bit but it was easy to reshape it. I ended up having to use the same
technique for 3 other boots on the drivers side. I dont know why some people say not to pull on the heat hield, it works great. The gap on the old plugss was over .60 so I was definitely overdue for new ones at 136k.
Thank you! Now, I just need a helper! 😊
Good video, make more videos!! You have a pretty cool camera man!!
Thanks! I just bought my plugs. I hope I don't break anything...
A+ on the recording . Wth . Dude when u record something make you record what you are doing and doing too
How did you remove spark plug #8? How did you get it out, it looks like that oil dipstick bracket gets in the way. Thanks
+Edmund Mendez - Hey there! I didn't remove the oil dipstick bracket when I did it. The plug wire took forever to get to break loose. I show the socket and wrench rig I used for removing the plug at about 9:50 in the video. Basically, as I recall, I just used my wrench and was able to break the socket loose (maybe 1/8 turn at a time), then used the socket with a very short extension and removed the rest of the way by hand. (no wrench - glove helps me grip in this mode) It did take patience and I removed most from the video because it took too long to do. (very boring to watch and listen to me grunting) :) I think the real problem is the proximity to the firewall and the angle of the plug and not the dipstick. One option I didn't try, might be to go from underneath the truck and come up from the bottom. Good luck man! Once you get that one out, it really is smooth sailing from there! Let us know what ends up working for you.
Also, as someone else mentioned, might be able to get in there by jacking up the truck and removing the passenger tire. I had that thought but decided to just tough it out and fight it til it let go.
What size wires did u use? An can i put 8mm wires on ecen tho my previous wires were 7mm?thanks
8mm. Should be fine to use 8mm in replacement for 7mm. Wouldn't recommend other way around. Exact kit is in description.
Can you please post the size of the socket, extention and wrench u hv used?
Mentioned at 3:52 in video. 5/8" deep socket, short extension, long extension, probably also used a swivel and maybe even a wobble extension for the tough to reach ones...
Do not use anti seize on spark plugs. Tighten dry to a proper torque. Antiseize change the resistance between the plug and head.
Do not believe this turdhead. Always use ant seize just a light coat is all you need
I'm going with the likes on this one Bill. So I'll be using the anti seize. Bill 😆
The fact he's doing this from side makes me definitely wonder if my truck doesn't have a lift. I had to climb on top of motor to change oil sensor and plugs. Didn't get rear passenger changed yet because couldn't loosen it up. Need another extension or have to go through wheel well. Don't wanna chance breaking it with the impact.
It is a stretch for me and I am 6’2”. I now have a newer Suburban and I have to stand on a step to work from the side. You might be able to go through wheelwell to get back passenger one, but for the others it wasn’t needed for me. Do not use an impact on plugs, only coils and other bolts, if at all. Good luck!
you did a great job kid
700$ their crazy take it to a Mexican mechanic they’ll do it for 100$
Yep, no kidding.
Where did you get your blue spark plug wire?
Just search for Taylor Plug Wires on Amazon. I think Summit Racing and other places carry them too, I think I actually bought them from Summit Racing. I used the 8mm Pro Series (with Spiro Pro). They come in several colors. You can also look at www.taylorvertex.com/ for more info.
GREAT VIDEO!!!
The UK blue color is the best color. :-)
Super. Thank you
Whats the part number to the wires you used
KING AKOO the coil packs have a serial number on them.. You will need that when buying the wires
I updated the description and added a parts list since a few people asked about it. I used a Taylor 72605 wire set, in blue.
good job guys !!
Like how you skip on the footage on that hardest on back there.😂😂😂
U the shit,👍 💯 🔥
Great job well done
Why change out good coils?
My theory was, they are electronics and electronics and heat always fail over time. I wanted the best outcome and least likelihood of having to do it again. (Failing coil, would foul a good plug fast).
muy bien explicado me gusto mucho
U did not unplug the batteries.
Left the key off though... :)
Cool video, but you say in the description "total cost of materials was about $450", I'm just going to assume that is a typo, lol. I did like the blue color, my Silverado is blue and that would be nice.
The coil packs are the expensive part...
dang, I was thinking just plugs and wires, with those costs you have to do it yourself
Yep. Des420 is right, I broke out the pricing in the description. Coil packs were $360 total...plugs and wires seemed like a bargain after that... :)
Ty!
😊thank you...for not teaching shit!!!
Whaaaa $700? Taylor wires the 8.5 or 9 mm and the AC DELCOS 41-962 and always check the spark plug gap… BUT $700- it’s only an hour of shop time and that’s $170 - then parts is like 300 with the Taylor’s and iridium’s with coils. That’s only $470 damn. $230 they burnt ya
👍
That's jus normal ware.and guess ya didn't get the back one out huh? Use a swivel or take the inner clips fender out
I got it out. Just took some time and creative combination of swivels and bending of my arm... :)
Someone done put plug wires on it that's not a factory plug
This video is so f****** funny this guy is like the biggest tweaker and he's trying to teach you how to Jimmy rig but remind me as if I would have made a video this would have been it lol
Thats kind of tough to watch (his hand got stuck)and it made me tired…🤣
5l v8!!! in the UK most 4x4 cars are 2-3l diesel and more than good enough. what a waste of fuel
lol another brit with the us complex... pathetic
I would love to have a vehicle that ran on solar or water. I'll keep driving my 5.3L V8 until they get those ready for prime time. Maybe Tesla will save the day...Different mindset in the US for sure...I kinda like it....they sound sound with flomasters.... :)
My buddy did it for me for 150
Go Cards!
veHHicle
Hehe. Kentucky-boy...from the city.