Best video I’ve seen . Changing the timing belt on a 2003 Saturn Vue . That video is also very good as well . You were correct. The hardest part was getting off the crank pulley
I had a pan underneath the water pump when I removed it. I then drained all the coolant before the radiator replacement. You can find the radiator repair, timing belt repair and serpentine repair on my main Channel.
How do you get off the water pump pulley after taking the screws out. It doesn''t seem to want to move. I smacked it a couple of times but I don't want to damage it.
I tried my hand at this job and can't find any information about the timing belt cover... It was hard to take off and sustained a little damage around the area behind the tensioner pulley, will this cause problems???? Do I need to replace it?
It could be overheating from combustion getting into the the coolant. You would do that test by performing what they call a "Dye leak down test". What that test does is, it collects the gas is inside the coolant, it changes the color in the dye of the vacuum tester. If the die changes from blue to green, then you have combustion in the coolant and that would indicate a blown head gasket. I have a video performing that test on a Honda. Go to my website and select "Automotive How To Videos", then select "Cooling System" in the categories. Website: www.nthefastlane.com
That coolant looked really funky, rusty. I would definitely have flushed the system as it was probably a reason for a lot of the problems. At least having to get a new radiator. Water pumps are usually replaced with the timing belts.
The timing belt, cam and front main seals, serpentine belt, water pump and radiator were all replaced. Yes, the coolant was also flushed and replaced. If you look on my channel, the last couple of videos are the CTS repairs.
Sorry if thus question is off topic on this vehicle but what throttle cable are you running on ur ek with victor x manifold i have the stock single cam 1 and it seems short for that setup any info will help thanks @nthefastlane
You don't spread rtv with dirty fingers, but you do put RTV (GM P/N 12345579) per the instructions from GM. It's not a matter of preference. Tighten water pump bolts to 18 ftlbs in alternating sequence. Allow rtv to cure fully before adding water. Read the tube. Wait a day. It's worth it. There is no need to blow out bolt holes, they are horizontal, and you would do that before you add rtv. Again you only add rtv to the seal, not the surface of the block. Why would you need to? The harm in it is that you crest a wedge that prevents the positive pressure o-ring from doing its job, and the face of the pump is now glued to the block. Good luck getting it off in the future.
Good question. Based solely on part numbers, I would have to say the intake and exhaust cams are different, even though to the naked eye they appear identical, they have two different part numbers GC30 & GC31 stamped on the cams. I believe you could swap both intake with the intake and exhaust with the exhaust for either cylinder head.
I have a question it is very complicated to change the thermostat my problem is that the hose that connects the thermostat to the radiator was disconnected
Leave the serpentine belt on and you'll be able to break the bolts loose. I always use an impact gun. Using an impact gun hits it so quick that the pulley doesn't even spin. If you're doing it by hand, chances are you're going to be moving the pulley.
Go to my timing belt repair video. Hop on my channels main page, it should be a couple videos down. At the end of that video I show how to put the timing cover back on.
You do not add coolant until the rtv is fully cured. You are giving piss poor instruction. You got lucky by putting rtv on the seal. And then defeated it by adding sealant to the surface of the block. This prevents proper torque and creates a wedge. You put rtv on with your oily fingers, you instructed the wrong torque spec, but got lucky and didn't break or strip any bolts. You didn't give instruction on proper burping of the system, which will inevitably lead to mistakes by victims of this video. You need to add a disclaimer that you are not a mechanic. At least read the installation instructions from the guys that made the pump! It says follow the oem instructions from the vehicle manufacturer! The manufacturer says torque to 18 ft lbs. No 2 step or 11 and 22 ft lbs. Torque is set by thread pitch and bolt shank size.
🛒Shop This Video: www.nthefastlane.com/cts-water-pump-replacement-store
🛒Find Any Leak: amzn.to/3JADlYm
🛒Download Auto Repair Manuals: shrsl.com/3wmrj
🛒Visit Nthefastlane's Amazon Store: amzn.to/3pP4UCy
How much does this cost to repair?
This is a good video. Well done.
Best video I’ve seen . Changing the timing belt on a 2003 Saturn Vue . That video is also very good as well . You were correct. The hardest part was getting off the crank pulley
Hey brother nice video. I just did this on my Cadi same one.
did you have to drain the coolant.... after installing the pump what steps did you do next to make sure its rununing correctly
I had a pan underneath the water pump when I removed it. I then drained all the coolant before the radiator replacement. You can find the radiator repair, timing belt repair and serpentine repair on my main Channel.
How do you get off the water pump pulley after taking the screws out. It doesn''t seem to want to move. I smacked it a couple of times but I don't want to damage it.
Have you replaced a fuel pump on your Cadillac CTS I have a 2003 and have to replace both water pump and fuel pump. 😩
Not as of yet.
I tried my hand at this job and can't find any information about the timing belt cover... It was hard to take off and sustained a little damage around the area behind the tensioner pulley, will this cause problems???? Do I need to replace it?
hello i have the 2003 cadillac cts. and my car started overheating .. the mechanic toldme tha the heads are blown. how did you diagnose it???
It could be overheating from combustion getting into the the coolant. You would do that test by performing what they call a "Dye leak down test". What that test does is, it collects the gas is inside the coolant, it changes the color in the dye of the vacuum tester. If the die changes from blue to green, then you have combustion in the coolant and that would indicate a blown head gasket. I have a video performing that test on a Honda. Go to my website and select "Automotive How To Videos", then select "Cooling System" in the categories. Website: www.nthefastlane.com
That coolant looked really funky, rusty. I would definitely have flushed the system as it was probably a reason for a lot of the problems. At least having to get a new radiator. Water pumps are usually replaced with the timing belts.
The timing belt, cam and front main seals, serpentine belt, water pump and radiator were all replaced. Yes, the coolant was also flushed and replaced. If you look on my channel, the last couple of videos are the CTS repairs.
Sorry if thus question is off topic on this vehicle but what throttle cable are you running on ur ek with victor x manifold i have the stock single cam 1 and it seems short for that setup any info will help thanks @nthefastlane
+Mathew Perez I custom made one from I believe a stock Honda GSR one. I reverse bent the bracket and twisted it into position with a vice.
+Mathew Perez The throttle cable is the stock 98 Civic Throttle cable.
Excuse me sir, do you mind helping me to locate the thermostat for this same vehicle?
You don't spread rtv with dirty fingers, but you do put RTV (GM P/N 12345579) per the instructions from GM. It's not a matter of preference. Tighten water pump bolts to 18 ftlbs in alternating sequence. Allow rtv to cure fully before adding water. Read the tube. Wait a day. It's worth it. There is no need to blow out bolt holes, they are horizontal, and you would do that before you add rtv. Again you only add rtv to the seal, not the surface of the block. Why would you need to? The harm in it is that you crest a wedge that prevents the positive pressure o-ring from doing its job, and the face of the pump is now glued to the block. Good luck getting it off in the future.
New subscriber here man. Good stuff.
Are the cams on these cars the same? Like exhaust vs intake?
Good question. Based solely on part numbers, I would have to say the intake and exhaust cams are different, even though to the naked eye they appear identical, they have two different part numbers GC30 & GC31 stamped on the cams. I believe you could swap both intake with the intake and exhaust with the exhaust for either cylinder head.
Thank you for taking the time to answer. Ended up giving up on the caddy and selling it. Hopefully this will help someone else.👍🙏
1 & 2 are the same as are 3 & 4. Hth
I have a question it is very complicated to change the thermostat my problem is that the hose that connects the thermostat to the radiator was disconnected
How’d you take off that water pump pulley without it moving like that ?
Leave the serpentine belt on and you'll be able to break the bolts loose. I always use an impact gun. Using an impact gun hits it so quick that the pulley doesn't even spin. If you're doing it by hand, chances are you're going to be moving the pulley.
Nthefastlane what’s the best way to put the timing cover back on ?
I mention it in the repair video towards the end.
Go to my timing belt repair video. Hop on my channels main page, it should be a couple videos down. At the end of that video I show how to put the timing cover back on.
Nthefastlane thanks man
Should have showed how you got the cover back on. it comes out with only minor damage to cover. but going back in, destroyed timing cover.
I explained how to put the cover back on in the timing belt video found here: ruclips.net/video/DFWtovLxE4Y/видео.html
Not the bracket the cable that runs from the pedal to the throttlebody
+Mathew Perez Pop it out of the fire wall if need be to get the extra distance.
Replacing a water pump on a 2003 Cadillac CTS is a pain in the behind if you are not a mechanic
That timing belt looked like it could use replacing.
+Darth Volvo That repair video is Next :)
You do not add coolant until the rtv is fully cured. You are giving piss poor instruction. You got lucky by putting rtv on the seal. And then defeated it by adding sealant to the surface of the block. This prevents proper torque and creates a wedge. You put rtv on with your oily fingers, you instructed the wrong torque spec, but got lucky and didn't break or strip any bolts. You didn't give instruction on proper burping of the system, which will inevitably lead to mistakes by victims of this video. You need to add a disclaimer that you are not a mechanic. At least read the installation instructions from the guys that made the pump! It says follow the oem instructions from the vehicle manufacturer! The manufacturer says torque to 18 ft lbs. No 2 step or 11 and 22 ft lbs. Torque is set by thread pitch and bolt shank size.