Who cares about optical and technical flaws, bowing distortions, color casts, corner swirling, rough vignetting and field curvatures and uneven bokeh and blah blah blah.. who will EVER actually look at that and say there is an issue? The photos are wonderful, the feeling and unique overall depth composition is magical and that is ALL that matters.
The issue first mentioned at 9:30 and in following examples with focus shift in different parts of the image is a well known issue with some modern M-lenses on non-Leica based sensor cameras. I had the exact same issue with some Leica ASPH M-mount lenses on Sony A7-series cameras. In your case the 50/0.95 is a rangefinder M-lens which is adapted to sensors optimized for different - more DSLR based - lens designs. Two effects are added here: the corner smear of the TTArtisan 50/0.95 with weak corners from combination with the sensor.
The amount of times you used the word "weird" just solidifies my feeling that people who've been using digital cameras are too used to the top of the line extra high def, super high resolution, no aberrations, no vignette clinical look of the "latest and greatest" gear that big brands keep shoving down out throats, and that to most people their personal style is in Lightroom presets, not in the choice of gear they use :P
That's some pretty wild rendering there! Definitely goes towards a Petzval vibe in those longer-distance shots: that could work in B&W! Don't care much for the curving plane of focus though...
Ok, loved the video. I'm always a fan of these adapted lens comparison videos because theres always a gem to be found. With that said, I wasn't a fan of this lens combo as much, particularly the outdoor photos with the foliage in the background. I think the OOF areas were way too distracting for me to really pay any attention to the individuals, which I think are the focus. Where the lens looked really pleasing (I think) was the interior shots with less distracting background like the ones of your son eating. Personally I think this lens would look great in a open air location like at the beach, desert, and in a studio setting. I do have to admit though, the lens looks really cool on the 907X, purely from a gear heads POV.
Whilst it certainly has a distinctive look I'm not certain that the swirly curvy areas are really worth paying so much money for. I like the bokeh other than curvy look which often takes your eye away from the main focus rather than just being a pleasing background. This is effectively around an f0.77 on the GFX and I think an f1.2 or even f1.4 at an effective f0.95 or f1.12 are better for my taste at least and as they are available at around a 1/30th of the price of the f0.95 and sharp they are no-brainer alternatives. I use both, as well as the Canon 40mm f2.8 on my GFX and like them all. BTW, I really like your photography and grading. Keep up the good work.
I've shot medium format for years and it was NEVER about megapixels to me. It was always about the sensor size and the look you could get from specific lens designs.
Would have been interesting to know which of these were taken with the Hasselblad and which with the Fuji, whether you noticed a difference. Also, did you take all the shots wide open? Did the distortion change when stopped down? When using the lens for a long time, you would probably not shoot everything at 0.95.
I think that distortion on the sides is due to the fact that you are using a full frame lens on a medium format camera. I think this one you are using is one of the only lenses that will show most of the medium format sensor. The depth of field should also be exactly the same as it would on ff, but your relative fov will be different (more like 35mm on the medium format rather than the 50 it would be on the camera it was designed for). The lens should perform the same on all sensor sizes, it just is how zoomed in it is into the lens (in this case it takes a step back from the lens). Super cool though! It reminds me of helios lenses adated to full frame cameras or some of the cctv lenses on mft cameras.
Incredible lens !!! I have the Canon 85mm 1.2L FD on my GFX 50S with tilt evf, about the same results in terms of separation and bokeh blur and that smearing bokeh in the corners , but not same DOF for sure ! thanks again, wonderful portraits, jaw dropping ! many of my clients dropped jaws after my Canon 85mm 1.2 on gfx 50S but this lens is out of this world !! 0.6-0.7 aperture is insane and for me thats the true large format look like 178mm 2.5 Aero Ektar on 4X5. I was looking for so long find a 0.95 lens that actually covering GFX sensor: My Canon 85mm 1.2L FD is already beating the crap out of my Pentax 67 (yes more bokeh than 105 2.4!!!) , i can't imagine this TTartisan 50mm 0.95 AAHHHHH
good stuff man ... what adapter did you use on your Hasselblad 907x ... did you have to use electronic shutter in order to use a manual lens. Also, have you noticed horizontal lines when using electronic shutter under different lights
Wow. Reminds me that I still miss my Pentax 67. And 645. All my best people shots are with those two cameras. Although the GF 110 is pretty great. And the Fuji FX 56mm is very good too. Great vid!! Love the high chair photos !!!
these looks are exactly what i was looking for. part pentax 105, part 4x5 large format look with those swirls wide open. alright im sold. im going to empty out my bank. lol
Great video as always Benj, anyways, I have been using the TTArtisan on my gfx100s for a while. And to my surprise, after I've tried it, the ACTUAL Leica Noctilux doesn't cover the medium format sensor, just saying that because now the ttartisan is even more impressive with wider image circle!
something about that doesnt make sense, I have the noctilux and the ttartisan has the same flange distance from the entrance pupil, how are you getting a difference in vignetting if you are using a leica adapter?
@@CryoftheProphet I have both and if I were to guess it's due to the lens design itself. The leica noctilux image circle doesn't need to be huge because the portion of the inage circle that's available is already sharp corner to corner. but if the TT glass isn't that sharp, they could optimize it by using a larger image circle and just using the middle part. not to mention the sheer size of the optics. the ttartisan is 67mm filter size while the noctilux is 60mm.
@@tt__shin ok now that makes more sense, I don’t have a ttartisan but I kinda wish I would have bought it over the noctilux because I’ve seen some images where it’s almost hard to tell them apart, I can spot the Leica after shooting with it but the ttsrtisan isn’t bad at all for the money.
@@tt__shin hi I have gfx 100 ans 50s , I want to know if TTartisan 50mm 0.95 can cover the 44x33 sensor ? It’s ok if a little vignetting but I don’t want to have very black corners. Thank you
It's all about that bokeh!!! The focus is so shallow that you gotta have pinpoint accuracy to make sure you actually get what you want in focus to be in focus lol. Amazing to see this side of the spectrum tho. I liked your video and subscribed to your channel!
Oh WOW , big WOW . Great images , great look , great local contrast , distortion works with all your portraits and wedding stuff . Thanks ! I would love this set up for digital . Emulates my ultra large camera stuff with film .
great review and thanks for these infos, was wondering if you ever test a Canon FD lens to 907x body? Would like to use this combo as ive got a FD 24mm F2.8, but not sure how it gonna looks like and how bad is the vignetting as someone told me it's gonna be black out around the center.. appreciates it a lot and keep up the good works!
@@Pentax67 - I don't shoot video so care less what noises a lens makes. AF is slow with any MF lens (atleast on the GFX and can't image Hassy being faster in AF).
Great video and photos, it’s a bit like Pentax 67 style.🖤 Without talking about bokeh, depth of field and imaging circle. Are the color tones of these samples the original photos straight out of 907X? Would it be possible to achieve the same tone with the GFX 100S using the same CMOS without having to adjust the palette and choose the color?
The regaining of sharpness at the edges is actually the warping of light around the edge of the lens (like a pinhole effect) combined with the natural imperfection of glass towards the edges that are usually cut off by the intended camera's format. This is not some "tilt-shifty" magic and the focus plane clearly doesn't bend there that would be against every optic science. And no need for overanalyzing the images - they look great, period.
sorry, may be I miss something, but this is a full frame lens, NOT the medium format& So why is it should render different? or it covers the medium format/ if covers fully. -yes, we can play with. but if you crop it due to vignetting - no matter of sensor. correct me if I am wrong.
The edges of the image are like that because of the field curvature. It can be worse because of the medium format sensor filter stack. The thinner the filter stack (like on a Leica body) the better, those MF cameras are probably with seriously fat filters. And being old school CMOS (not BSI) this lens performs pretty good in the edges, if the sensor is not BSI most of the time you have serious color shift in the edges.
@@benjhaisch I see you are using Lightroom, there was a tool helpx.adobe.com/in/x-productkb/multi/lens-profile-support.html#Create_your_own_lens_profiles I am not sure is it still working, if I remember it right they stopped working on it a while ago. What you have to do with it is to shoot a pattern with black and white squares and warp the image to fix it, than the software creates a profile.
@@benjhaisch another option is to find a lens that have similar distortion and try to use its profile. My first pick will be some of the cheap ultra wides like Samyang 14 2.8 DSLR version for example. I was having the same problem when I was using optical condenser lenses on a Sony full frame cameras to get a 44x33mm sensor simulation. The Metabones Speedbooster has a similar distortion.
Hey there! Cool video! I got confused, were your sample pictures taken with the 907x or the GFX? I’m assuming the GFX but just to make sure. :) Side question, does the 907 shoot vertically too or do you have to crop it from landscape?
Hello, I already have a 500cm and a collection of lens, I can get a GFX cheaper than 907x. Do you think it is a better idea to go with Fujifilm if I don't have any autofocus lens or the 907x is worth the extra money to integrate to my existing system?
Gosh I LOVED the 907X and if it had an internal shutter, I'd totally buy one. But since it doesn't, adapting lenses just isn't very feasible for all situations with the slow sensor readout.
That being said, if you're just going to be adapting your existing leaf shutter lenses or even just tossing the back onto your 500cm, go for it! You'll be saddened by the small amount of the viewfinder you actually get on sensor size, but the experience is still fantastic in comparison to the GFX
@@benjhaisch yeah, I am struggling between the decision, I'm sure the 907x is better build and better in most ways. But it is double the price of Fuji for the units I am seeing $5k vs $2.5k for Fuji rangefinder GFX. I cannot see myself spending the amount of money for the XCD lens as an amateur. It would be perfect if they would just sell the digital back separately at a lower cost. But image quality wise both are identical, you think?
i like the combo. maybe going to get myself one too for my gfx100s. just avoid foliage backgrounds i guess? the photos with your son is really what i'm looking for but those in the woods not so much. maybe just keep the lens for studio work? i'm on the fence
@@benjhaisch I do, but with this video, not only do I get a good long look, there's some nice commentary as well. I wish other folks did this kind of in depth stuff
These "issues" with the edge are simply due tot the fact that these areas are well beyond the regular 35mm format und so the lenses aren't corrected in these places. What you're seeing is extreme field curvature alongside heavy aberration. Pretty much the exact same things happens on lenses with a "swirly bokeh" like the famous Helios 44s - these areas are not well corrected.
@@benjhaisch I did the same after using some adapted lenses on the GFX, some lenses are very much effected and others not as much. Truth be told: I ended up selling all adapted lenses and only used native Fuji and native 3rd party lenses (Mitakon). The results were far more predictable and of a higher quality overall.
tilt effect is different and more pleasing than this huge field curvature from this lens. IMO a flat field lens give really more flattering images in matter of 3D pop.
Remember you were never supposed to see those borders as it’s meant for 24x36, so I think it’s inherent to the optical design where the borders go wild because the lens is corrected for « inside » of them, and this is the Wild West of the lens where there is no rule and law anymore ;)
Definitely looks like Biotar distortion (when you mentioned 'Moustache distortion') - I have my own post-processing shader that corrects it for me, not aware of how to fix it using lightroom/etc though :/
What’s the lens model ? Am i crazy or did you not mention it Edit: okay finally found it it’s a Leica lmnopqrstuv 50z or something. Are they hard to find or something? Any reason you didn’t give an affiliate link for it I’ll be honest I feel very wronged by you. Why didn’t you link it? Do you have any idea the nightmarish hell ive been through as a result, back and forth in the video battling my ADHD looking for clues. That’s said I of course forgive you and accept your offer to make amends my letting me buy that lens from you. :)
@@benjhaisch ok nice to know it, cause I'm looking about a gfx50r but the price for the fujinon is a bit expensive. Did you have some advice for some lenses can make it, for make me an idea about the budget for? Thanks for the reply
Thank you for explaining/debunking the myth that lenses, somehow change their parameters because they’re used on a different format. The lens comes out of the factory marked eg. 50mm. f0.95 it STAYS at that regardless of the camera it’s fitted to. Depth of field is determined by aperture, focal length and camera to subject distance.
Correct but the equivalent will be 40mm 0.75 on gfx. The sensor is bigger than full frame. By mounting 50mm 0.95 on gfx it will have a larger focal distance it will no longer be 50mm. Also the depth of field is changed . It becomes 0.75 as depth of field equivalent , but not an actual f/0.75 in terms of light transmission ! The light transmission stays 0.95. What’s important the lens 50mm 0.95 keeps the properties and compression of 50mm focal length but giving you larger image (40mm)
@@Pentax67 It won't/can't have a "larger focal distance" focal length is determined at manufacture, by optical formula. It ALWAYS remains a 50mm focal length lens, and the depth of field is that of a 50mm lens, if it was put on a smaller sensor the DOF is still that of a 50mm lens, the field of view on the smaller sensor will be reduced, on a larger format it will be expanded but it doesn't 'become' 40mm on the GFX.
Could we all agree at some point that « more shallow depth of field » is just LESS depth of field ?? People ! Isn’t it simpler to use that one short word !!
Actually your depth of field should look sharper on a bigger sensor, and shallower on a crop sensor. The reason being the circle of confusion is physically the same size, so is big on a crop sensor and small (sharper) on a large sensor.
@@Pentax67No, I don't have the examples anymore, I sold the gfx. I have the lens on sale right now, it's on my eBay. On digital medium format it wasn't that good, maybe I did something wrong I don't know...
Sorry to be a whiner,troll whateverrr....do you realise you jumped all over the place,not once did you distinguish the photos from the fuji or hasselblad,at the around 7min mark you start talking about voitglander profiles..? are you not using hasselblads software..?.. then jump into a photo of your son,so which lens is this....aaand did you use a tripod,because imho,it does not look like you did.I've learnt nothing from you....sorry.
But to answer your questions. No I’m not using the Hasselblad software. That wouldn’t make sense with my workflow. This video is about the 50/0.95 on the 44x33mm sensors. Why would I need to use this on a tripod?
Who cares about optical and technical flaws, bowing distortions, color casts, corner swirling, rough vignetting and field curvatures and uneven bokeh and blah blah blah.. who will EVER actually look at that and say there is an issue? The photos are wonderful, the feeling and unique overall depth composition is magical and that is ALL that matters.
That strange focus thing with the center and then further back at the edge thing is super unique and pretty cool.
The issue first mentioned at 9:30 and in following examples with focus shift in different parts of the image is a well known issue with some modern M-lenses on non-Leica based sensor cameras. I had the exact same issue with some Leica ASPH M-mount lenses on Sony A7-series cameras. In your case the 50/0.95 is a rangefinder M-lens which is adapted to sensors optimized for different - more DSLR based - lens designs. Two effects are added here: the corner smear of the TTArtisan 50/0.95 with weak corners from combination with the sensor.
That 907X is so incredibly beautiful. What a camera.
One cannot avoid the field curvature, I would just crop in a little. At the end its not a medium format glass
What you see is not focus shift, it's field curvature.
Focus shift is when focus moves when closing the aperture 1 to 2 stops
The amount of times you used the word "weird" just solidifies my feeling that people who've been using digital cameras are too used to the top of the line extra high def, super high resolution, no aberrations, no vignette clinical look of the "latest and greatest" gear that big brands keep shoving down out throats, and that to most people their personal style is in Lightroom presets, not in the choice of gear they use :P
Looks large format more than medium. Like some crazy bokeh from 4x5. That tilt shift you mention is like old unconnected lenses
As a Bokeh addict, this video satisfies my daily need. Thanks Benj!
That's some pretty wild rendering there! Definitely goes towards a Petzval vibe in those longer-distance shots: that could work in B&W! Don't care much for the curving plane of focus though...
That was my immediate thought as well. Would work much better for B&W.
Ok, loved the video. I'm always a fan of these adapted lens comparison videos because theres always a gem to be found. With that said, I wasn't a fan of this lens combo as much, particularly the outdoor photos with the foliage in the background. I think the OOF areas were way too distracting for me to really pay any attention to the individuals, which I think are the focus. Where the lens looked really pleasing (I think) was the interior shots with less distracting background like the ones of your son eating. Personally I think this lens would look great in a open air location like at the beach, desert, and in a studio setting. I do have to admit though, the lens looks really cool on the 907X, purely from a gear heads POV.
Whilst it certainly has a distinctive look I'm not certain that the swirly curvy areas are really worth paying so much money for. I like the bokeh other than curvy look which often takes your eye away from the main focus rather than just being a pleasing background. This is effectively around an f0.77 on the GFX and I think an f1.2 or even f1.4 at an effective f0.95 or f1.12 are better for my taste at least and as they are available at around a 1/30th of the price of the f0.95 and sharp they are no-brainer alternatives. I use both, as well as the Canon 40mm f2.8 on my GFX and like them all. BTW, I really like your photography and grading. Keep up the good work.
Hey thanks! Fwiw, I think this lens only costs about $750 :)
@@benjhaisch Sorry I was thinking it was the Canon which is upwards of $2000 in the UK
Those pictures where insane! This combo is perfect
I've shot medium format for years and it was NEVER about megapixels to me. It was always about the sensor size and the look you could get from specific lens designs.
Hej, używasz może tego obiektywu pod GFX, polecasz?
Would have been interesting to know which of these were taken with the Hasselblad and which with the Fuji, whether you noticed a difference. Also, did you take all the shots wide open? Did the distortion change when stopped down? When using the lens for a long time, you would probably not shoot everything at 0.95.
I think that distortion on the sides is due to the fact that you are using a full frame lens on a medium format camera. I think this one you are using is one of the only lenses that will show most of the medium format sensor. The depth of field should also be exactly the same as it would on ff, but your relative fov will be different (more like 35mm on the medium format rather than the 50 it would be on the camera it was designed for). The lens should perform the same on all sensor sizes, it just is how zoomed in it is into the lens (in this case it takes a step back from the lens). Super cool though! It reminds me of helios lenses adated to full frame cameras or some of the cctv lenses on mft cameras.
Quite a cool look. Would be nice if you could tell us which camera with which lens were used in the photographs.
When are you doing the review of the TTartisan 50mm 0.95? Would be nice if you did it with a fullframe camera then, like the M!
they video i requested/ waited for😭🙏🏼
Incredible lens !!! I have the Canon 85mm 1.2L FD on my GFX 50S with tilt evf, about the same results in terms of separation and bokeh blur and that smearing bokeh in the corners , but not same DOF for sure ! thanks again, wonderful portraits, jaw dropping ! many of my clients dropped jaws after my Canon 85mm 1.2 on gfx 50S but this lens is out of this world !! 0.6-0.7 aperture is insane and for me thats the true large format look like 178mm 2.5 Aero Ektar on 4X5. I was looking for so long find a 0.95 lens that actually covering GFX sensor: My Canon 85mm 1.2L FD is already beating the crap out of my Pentax 67 (yes more bokeh than 105 2.4!!!) , i can't imagine this TTartisan 50mm 0.95 AAHHHHH
good stuff man ... what adapter did you use on your Hasselblad 907x ... did you have to use electronic shutter in order to use a manual lens. Also, have you noticed horizontal lines when using electronic shutter under different lights
Wow. Reminds me that I still miss my Pentax 67. And 645. All my best people shots are with those two cameras. Although the GF 110 is pretty great. And the Fuji FX 56mm is very good too. Great vid!! Love the high chair photos !!!
Which adapter did you use on the Hasselblad? Very interesting look for sure.
Great video as always.
Photos from a distance looking like a brenizer 😃
these looks are exactly what i was looking for. part pentax 105, part 4x5 large format look with those swirls wide open. alright im sold. im going to empty out my bank. lol
This is a non perfect lens and I love it. Lot of character and so charming. So different that typical ultra sharp all over digital style. Great lens.
may I ask what's the adapter you used on the GFX?. Thanks
Hey ! Love the video. I have the n’assemblas and wondered what adapter you used for the lens ?
Great video as always Benj, anyways, I have been using the TTArtisan on my gfx100s for a while. And to my surprise, after I've tried it, the ACTUAL Leica Noctilux doesn't cover the medium format sensor, just saying that because now the ttartisan is even more impressive with wider image circle!
something about that doesnt make sense, I have the noctilux and the ttartisan has the same flange distance from the entrance pupil, how are you getting a difference in vignetting if you are using a leica adapter?
@@CryoftheProphet I have both and if I were to guess it's due to the lens design itself. The leica noctilux image circle doesn't need to be huge because the portion of the inage circle that's available is already sharp corner to corner. but if the TT glass isn't that sharp, they could optimize it by using a larger image circle and just using the middle part.
not to mention the sheer size of the optics. the ttartisan is 67mm filter size while the noctilux is 60mm.
@@tt__shin ok now that makes more sense, I don’t have a ttartisan but I kinda wish I would have bought it over the noctilux because I’ve seen some images where it’s almost hard to tell them apart, I can spot the Leica after shooting with it but the ttsrtisan isn’t bad at all for the money.
@@CryoftheProphet 90% of the performance for 5% of the price!
@@tt__shin hi I have gfx 100 ans 50s , I want to know if TTartisan 50mm 0.95 can cover the 44x33 sensor ? It’s ok if a little vignetting but I don’t want to have very black corners. Thank you
Aaaah I now got it, Ben is j. Now everything make sense
It's all about that bokeh!!! The focus is so shallow that you gotta have pinpoint accuracy to make sure you actually get what you want in focus to be in focus lol. Amazing to see this side of the spectrum tho. I liked your video and subscribed to your channel!
Awesome video! I was wondering what are you using to help get rid of all the vignetting? You mentioned a lens profile and what software? Thanks!!
Just lightroom
Oh WOW , big WOW . Great images , great look , great local contrast , distortion works with all your portraits and wedding stuff . Thanks !
I would love this set up for digital . Emulates my ultra large camera stuff with film .
One question, what about other fast 50s? Like mitakon 0,95f, or vintage nikors 50mm 1,2f etc? Would they be able to cover the full GFX sensor?
great review and thanks for these infos, was wondering if you ever test a Canon FD lens to 907x body? Would like to use this combo as ive got a FD 24mm F2.8, but not sure how it gonna looks like and how bad is the vignetting as someone told me it's gonna be black out around the center.. appreciates it a lot and keep up the good works!
I assume it will be manual focus which would be pain. Waiting for Fuji 55mm f1.7
lol comparing 1.7 versus 0.95. It’s like 2 stops. I have gfx 100 and 100II , I’ve tried 55 1.7, it’s slow and noisy.
@@Pentax67 - I don't shoot video so care less what noises a lens makes. AF is slow with any MF lens (atleast on the GFX and can't image Hassy being faster in AF).
Great video and photos, it’s a bit like Pentax 67 style.🖤 Without talking about bokeh, depth of field and imaging circle. Are the color tones of these samples the original photos straight out of 907X? Would it be possible to achieve the same tone with the GFX 100S using the same CMOS without having to adjust the palette and choose the color?
The regaining of sharpness at the edges is actually the warping of light around the edge of the lens (like a pinhole effect) combined with the natural imperfection of glass towards the edges that are usually cut off by the intended camera's format. This is not some "tilt-shifty" magic and the focus plane clearly doesn't bend there that would be against every optic science. And no need for overanalyzing the images - they look great, period.
sorry, may be I miss something, but this is a full frame lens, NOT the medium format& So why is it should render different? or it covers the medium format/ if covers fully. -yes, we can play with. but if you crop it due to vignetting - no matter of sensor. correct me if I am wrong.
These are all Uncropped at the full 44x33 sensor size
which image is better of this lens,hassleblad or fujiGFX?
same sensor to my knowledge
The edges of the image are like that because of the field curvature. It can be worse because of the medium format sensor filter stack. The thinner the filter stack (like on a Leica body) the better, those MF cameras are probably with seriously fat filters. And being old school CMOS (not BSI) this lens performs pretty good in the edges, if the sensor is not BSI most of the time you have serious color shift in the edges.
PS you can create custom lens profile to automatically correct the distortion.
How can you do that? Can you link me?
@@benjhaisch I see you are using Lightroom, there was a tool
helpx.adobe.com/in/x-productkb/multi/lens-profile-support.html#Create_your_own_lens_profiles
I am not sure is it still working, if I remember it right they stopped working on it a while ago. What you have to do with it is to shoot a pattern with black and white squares and warp the image to fix it, than the software creates a profile.
@@benjhaisch another option is to find a lens that have similar distortion and try to use its profile. My first pick will be some of the cheap ultra wides like Samyang 14 2.8 DSLR version for example.
I was having the same problem when I was using optical condenser lenses on a Sony full frame cameras to get a 44x33mm sensor simulation. The Metabones Speedbooster has a similar distortion.
That download hasn’t been working for me :/ would you be willing to convert for me if I sent a file?
How did the electronic shutter performed with the 907x
Thanks for these reviews, truly helpful. Any chance to get a hold of a RAW file from this setup? Keen to do some pixel peaking.
Thanks! What adapter are you using with the Fuji?
It is a beautiful setup however the shutter issue would be super annoying.
The distortion is from Hasselblad electronic shutter.
Hey there! Cool video! I got confused, were your sample pictures taken with the 907x or the GFX? I’m assuming the GFX but just to make sure. :) Side question, does the 907 shoot vertically too or do you have to crop it from landscape?
Both have the same sensor, the wedding ones were taken on the GFX and most others were with the 907x
@@benjhaisch the look of the image of your son at the table is soo good. Thanks for the video!
Wow, I was JUST looking at this lens for gfx.
You like this lens over the TTA 50mm1.4 that you seem to use a lot as well?
they're just very different lenses. this one is sort of a one trick pony of sorts
Hey Benj! Great video. I am trying to get into the GFX system. Did you use 35mm mode on these images?
Nope! All in 44x33 but I cropped some in slightly
@@benjhaisch Thank you sir! Big fan of your videos.
Hello, I already have a 500cm and a collection of lens, I can get a GFX cheaper than 907x.
Do you think it is a better idea to go with Fujifilm if I don't have any autofocus lens or the 907x is worth the extra money to integrate to my existing system?
Gosh I LOVED the 907X and if it had an internal shutter, I'd totally buy one. But since it doesn't, adapting lenses just isn't very feasible for all situations with the slow sensor readout.
That being said, if you're just going to be adapting your existing leaf shutter lenses or even just tossing the back onto your 500cm, go for it! You'll be saddened by the small amount of the viewfinder you actually get on sensor size, but the experience is still fantastic in comparison to the GFX
@@benjhaisch yeah, I am struggling between the decision, I'm sure the 907x is better build and better in most ways.
But it is double the price of Fuji for the units I am seeing $5k vs $2.5k for Fuji rangefinder GFX.
I cannot see myself spending the amount of money for the XCD lens as an amateur.
It would be perfect if they would just sell the digital back separately at a lower cost.
But image quality wise both are identical, you think?
How do you get around the electronic shutter issue with third party lenses?
you just switched the lenses from the GFX to the 907X and vice versa without changing the adapters. Do they share the same mounts?
both lenses shown for illustration purposes are Leica M-mount and I have adapters for both the Hassy and the Fuji for that mount.
@@benjhaisch which adapter are you using on your 500 to use the leica lens? thx :-*
Curious how'd you get the Hasselblad to recognize the manual lens.
Pop the camera into electronic shutter mode.
Could you do a review using 907x 100 with the Leica M 50 APO please!
Would love to, anyone have access to a 50APO?
Amazing shirt, where did you get it?
Was wondering if you have tested the gfx with the 50 summilux in similar conditions. Love the presets and can't wait for them to release!
ruclips.net/video/o1ckTB9s23k/видео.html
side note: what strap are you using on your Fuji please? 🙏
benjhais.ch/clever 🙌🏼
i like the combo. maybe going to get myself one too for my gfx100s. just avoid foliage backgrounds i guess?
the photos with your son is really what i'm looking for but those in the woods not so much. maybe just keep the lens for studio work?
i'm on the fence
Really great content. Would be nicer if time stamps are available
Feel free to drop some for others and I’ll copy/paste. Sometimes I forget
I really appreciate the commentary/analysis of each image vs some commentary and then flashing a pic up for 3 seconds. good stuff
you can pause and keep a photo up for as long as you'd like
@@benjhaisch I do, but with this video, not only do I get a good long look, there's some nice commentary as well. I wish other folks did this kind of in depth stuff
great video and great photos!
I have been using the TTArtisan 50mm f/0.95 with my Sony, now that I know I have been missing out.
great video as always, can you consider adding chapters to your videos? it will help jump right into the action for some of us.. thanks!
Looks great with preset!
great vid. getting the same edge smear with the 50lux
These "issues" with the edge are simply due tot the fact that these areas are well beyond the regular 35mm format und so the lenses aren't corrected in these places. What you're seeing is extreme field curvature alongside heavy aberration. Pretty much the exact same things happens on lenses with a "swirly bokeh" like the famous Helios 44s - these areas are not well corrected.
yes, thank you! I actually only really dove well into field curvature after making this and doing some more research on it.
@@benjhaisch I did the same after using some adapted lenses on the GFX, some lenses are very much effected and others not as much. Truth be told: I ended up selling all adapted lenses and only used native Fuji and native 3rd party lenses (Mitakon). The results were far more predictable and of a higher quality overall.
tilt effect is different and more pleasing than this huge field curvature from this lens.
IMO a flat field lens give really more flattering images in matter of 3D pop.
Is it possible that optical element misalignment inside the lens, a QC issue, could be causing the tilt shift issue?
Remember you were never supposed to see those borders as it’s meant for 24x36, so I think it’s inherent to the optical design where the borders go wild because the lens is corrected for « inside » of them, and this is the Wild West of the lens where there is no rule and law anymore ;)
@@alexiscosar8980 that is a good point
just wow!
Definitely looks like Biotar distortion (when you mentioned 'Moustache distortion') - I have my own post-processing shader that corrects it for me, not aware of how to fix it using lightroom/etc though :/
11:34 Wow! It look like Brenizer Method!
I'm here to find new magic situations.
What’s the lens model ? Am i crazy or did you not mention it
Edit: okay finally found it it’s a Leica lmnopqrstuv 50z or something. Are they hard to find or something? Any reason you didn’t give an affiliate link for it
I’ll be honest I feel very wronged by you. Why didn’t you link it? Do you have any idea the nightmarish hell ive been through as a result, back and forth in the video battling my ADHD looking for clues. That’s said I of course forgive you and accept your offer to make amends my letting me buy that lens from you. :)
Haha! My bad. amzn.to/3x6jS8c
Hey
What's the point to use a full frame lenses on a medium format? You're shouting so in full frame right?
The full frame lenses often cover the full 44x33 sensor
@@benjhaisch ok nice to know it, cause I'm looking about a gfx50r but the price for the fujinon is a bit expensive. Did you have some advice for some lenses can make it, for make me an idea about the budget for? Thanks for the reply
Thank you for explaining/debunking the myth that lenses, somehow change their parameters because they’re used on a different format. The lens comes out of the factory marked eg. 50mm. f0.95 it STAYS at that regardless of the camera it’s fitted to. Depth of field is determined by aperture, focal length and camera to subject distance.
Correct but the equivalent will be 40mm 0.75 on gfx. The sensor is bigger than full frame. By mounting 50mm 0.95 on gfx it will have a larger focal distance it will no longer be 50mm. Also the depth of field is changed . It becomes 0.75 as depth of field equivalent , but not an actual f/0.75 in terms of light transmission ! The light transmission stays 0.95.
What’s important the lens 50mm 0.95 keeps the properties and compression of 50mm focal length but giving you larger image (40mm)
@@Pentax67 It won't/can't have a "larger focal distance" focal length is determined at manufacture, by optical formula. It ALWAYS remains a 50mm focal length lens, and the depth of field is that of a 50mm lens, if it was put on a smaller sensor the DOF is still that of a 50mm lens, the field of view on the smaller sensor will be reduced, on a larger format it will be expanded but it doesn't 'become' 40mm on the GFX.
Could we all agree at some point that « more shallow depth of field » is just LESS depth of field ?? People ! Isn’t it simpler to use that one short word !!
eeee...no the Leica noctilux is sharp. shame it doesn't cover the sensor tho
In this world, so you use a Leica M to GFX adapter? Is so which?
Have an adapter preference for this situation?
would be cool to see it on the hassie 500cm with a film back that lens .. see what it looks like on some nice b/w film or portra 400
Actually your depth of field should look sharper on a bigger sensor, and shallower on a crop sensor. The reason being the circle of confusion is physically the same size, so is big on a crop sensor and small (sharper) on a large sensor.
Weird bokeh... 🤔
Like an iPhone with computetional imaging? 😃
This lens on 44x33 sensor is shit. Heavy distortion, heavy vignetting, softness from midframe to borders. I have it on my GFX50S II
Do you have IG to see your examples ? I’m looking to buy it but in afraid it will be a shit lens with bad vignetting and dark corners
@@Pentax67No, I don't have the examples anymore, I sold the gfx. I have the lens on sale right now, it's on my eBay. On digital medium format it wasn't that good, maybe I did something wrong I don't know...
Thank you for testing so I dont have to:P
😂
@@benjhaisch I am wondering of you csn test the 75mm 1.24 or the new 90mm too?:)
ruclips.net/video/o1ckTB9s23k/видео.html
I did the 75 here
Here is a sample of the 90mm twitter.com/benjhaisch/status/1416977369567571972?s=21
.79 magnification,,,not .72
Ah if I said that it was my Leica standard VF magnification coming to mind ;)
You must be very rich, that's all I can say.
Haha! I don’t own the Hasselblad and that 50/0.95 is less than $1000
Oh man….. drugs
Chinese lenses? not really my thing, awful sharpness and quality, but it's would be interesting to see the test with Leica 50mm f0.95 ASPH
Feel free to lend me the Noctilux, it’s not exactly in my budget
🗑️
6 minutes in no images
Sorry to be a whiner,troll whateverrr....do you realise you jumped all over the place,not once did you distinguish the photos from the fuji or hasselblad,at the around 7min mark you start talking about voitglander profiles..? are you not using hasselblads software..?.. then jump into a photo of your son,so which lens is this....aaand did you use a tripod,because imho,it does not look like you did.I've learnt nothing from you....sorry.
Totally fine, obviously not the target audience for this video in particular if those are your (lack of) takeaways.
But to answer your questions. No I’m not using the Hasselblad software. That wouldn’t make sense with my workflow. This video is about the 50/0.95 on the 44x33mm sensors. Why would I need to use this on a tripod?
Artisan lens. Complete Dog-sh*t lens. Fisher Price Noctilux.