How to replace truck body mounts - Body Mount Bushing replacement - EASY - Chevy/GMC
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- In this video I replace a cab body mount bushing on this 2003 GMC Sierra Z71 extended cab. Removing a body mount is pretty simple. Replacing body mounts is simple with a few necessary tools. I used a floor jack to raise the body after I removed the bolts from the body mounts. It's a pretty quick and easy fix if done properly. The old mount was rotted out bad.
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#bodymount #bushings #chevy #trucks
Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade, 4x4, Z71, 5.3L, LM7, LQ9, LQ4, body mount bushings
Thank you sir for taking the time and effort to share this video with us!
Nice easy job that helps make driving an older truck that much better. Yeah, that rust is horrible. My '99 Suburban is rust free. I count myself blessed.
I live in AZ and of the 3 cars I've owned none had rust because they had spent their lives here in AZ, unfortunately the heat destroys those rubber bushings, i'm here because I have a 2006 Avalanche and thankfully it has no rust either, it was 1-owner registered in cali for the last 12 years, until i bought it from a dealer who picked it up from auction, only 130k miles, I'm now having to replace every single rubber bushing, planning on doing a full front end suspension rebuild in the coming weeks because of the damage caused by worn bushings and joints.
@@shawnc6317 So what would be preventive maintenance for new bushings in Arizona heat?
Thanks for sharing this video. I was replacing my mounts on a 1988 GMT400 and could not remember the orientation of the bushings; so, this was very helpful. One of the problems with our trucks is the amount of corrosion that builds up over the years; a good example being the customer's truck you show here. Even the frame mounts can get so rusted as to render them useless, at which point you either have to weld a new mounting plate to the frame, or replace the entire frame itself. What I have done in restoring my truck is to coat every metal piece below the body (that would be exposed to road salt and water) with a rust preventative, e.g. Liquid Film, as I re-assemble each part. My hope is to have a truck still road worthy for another 15 or more years.
That stuff falls right off, wish it worked better.
@@streetbikebilly2597 Liquid film does seem to run off the vertical surfaces so recoating is recommended every couple of years. There's a fellow up in Canada who uses this on his SUV and recoats every year following a thorough pressure wash of the underside of his vehicle. He has a car lift so that obviously helps to ease the job and he spray coats with a pneumatic sprayer. Were it only possible for all of us to have such equipment in our garages!
@@tedtolentino4955 yep I just crawled around with 6 cans on the bottom of my truck and got myself covered in it. I think a good trick with that stuff is to do it a couple weeks before the first salt if not a little bit more earlier and while it's fresh go hit a dirty Dusty road up and down up and down and saturate the bottom with the dirt. I work on the roads and deal with the grinding dust from them milling up the roads. If there's any leak on the underside of the truck that asphalt dust sticks to that stuff like crazy but if you peel it away it's the only spots where the frame or body of the truck looks completely new. The poor mechanics tho.
I’m having to replace mine on my S10. This video just confirmed what I already knew and told me some things I didn’t know. Thanks for your help!!
You
Ok
Goo
My S10 has a roller motor in it. about 600hp.its so quick it jerked the whole paint job of it's self..lol.and I'm a professional bullshitter
Those washers are for the top of the mount they go against the cab to keep the top of the bushing from sliding around
Where does it go exactly.?
glad I saw this thanks
I called dorman they told me they were for the bottom of the lower bushing theres already a steel cap on the top bushing.
@robpaul7900 so they both go right after the silver plate?
This helped out a lot man, gotta do all 4 mounts on my 96 single cab s10. It's my first truck, and vehicle in general.
Thanks for making this video! I'm in the process of replacing my body mounts on a 2005 Sierra. I was also going to use the same Dorman part number, but was sure it was right. After watching your video I'm positive you used the right one since mine look exactly the same. The metal pieces that you didn't use were just spacers that some models had.
As for the rust, mine is WAY worse. Rockers are completely gone and the frame is quite rusty. The downside living in the Midwest (Michigan).
I have 3 square body's and also live in the mid west( se Ohio) I'm too am in the process of a body mount issue.changing cabs.cab floor supports , quite a job.core supports fenders.😡
Thank you for the explanation and good photography. I am watching your vid to see just what this cab bolt thing is all about. I had my one ton in for unrelated work and was told that ALL FOUR OF THE CAB BOLTS were gone ! The Service Manager was quite insistent that I spend the money to replace and reinstall new complete hardware. I see why now.
Im surprised they let you drive it out of the shop lol
I just did my 04 silverado with the Dorman mounts they do fit tight and you have to fool with them and turn them around if needed to get them to set good in the holes. They are good body mounts just have to work with them, I replaced all six on my regular cab.
Thanks for the video! I’m doing the cab mounts on my K5 blazer today. 👍🏻
Hey man that was a very helpful video because I think that I have a body mount squeaking
Gonna do the same process. Installing nerf bars so my wife can step in to the cab more easily. Looked up in to the middle one and found there was no bolt there. I guess someone forgot...ha ha. Nice video.
Don’t just replace one do all of them. If yah can. Good vid!!
Surely looks like a job I can tackle, thanks.
Thank you Sir for a fine and very informative video. I wish you had used a jack stand to help secure that cab instead of relying on that floor jack. Your hands were in between the cab and frame. Just saying. God Bless.
That is the radiator support mount the correct Dorman part # is 924-135
Just replaced the body mount bushing on my 98 gmc jimmy, it's a job I will never do again. A bolt on the driver side just behind the front tire broke. Most of the other bolts were rusted to the point I needed new one's, which were very hard to find. I would also recommend using a 4x4 instead of a 2x4. I used a 2x4 and it was a mistake, it wasn't stiff enough and now the drivers door is way out of alignment (almost 1/4 inch). What should have been a few hrs job turn into almost 2 days.
Edit: Just about any GM product will rust, I've seen more rusted out chevy trucks than any other brand. Dodge being next in line.
Must’ve never seen a Ford in Minnesota 🤣🤣
I think you needed to loosen the core mounts under the radiator too. When you lifted the body off the frame, the cushions attaching the front of the vehicle to the frame meant you distorted the cab between the body and the front clips. Not certain about this. It could also be a function of how rusted your body is, or a combination of the two.
I am amazed at the sheer amount of corrosion under that truck. It must be a road salt thing. We don't see that in San Diego.
Could you jack the cab up for a standard cab or would you have to take more off to be able to lift it up?
Good work and thanks for this video. I need to do the same thing to my 2017 Yukon XL. QUESTION: Would the body have lifted off a bit easier if you loosened the body mounts on the other side, or could that cause the body to shift a little caddy-wompus? Also, any idea how much torque should have been applied on re-intsall? Seems like that larger washer plate could buckle in under too much torque. Thanks!
Is this one of those parts where if you replace one you might as well or should replace the other?
scary terry Pretty much I’m about to do this job on my 98 Chevy Silverado there’s only 2 of them that are super far gone but I’m just going to replace em all while I’m already under there.
Great video... I'm doing the same mount but on a 2011 F250.... did you loosen the opposite side body mount? Do I have to take them all out to get the cab to raise? And by" loosen" does that mean take the bolts out completely but not actually remove the bushing.. . Or just loosen the bolts but leave them seated? Thank you for helping me out with this. I just don't want what seems simple to turn into a huge project in not prepared for..
Good video, have to replace a couple on my 94. Thanks
Have you replaced them
clean the metal with a wire brush before you install it and spray some anti rust paint on it so it doesnt get rusty again. put some thread locker on the bolts so it doesn't slip or come loose. :D
Is this what's making my truck feel like it's rocking?
Ya most likely my 2000 Chevy has that problem and the one side of my cab is rlly low compared to the other side
Do you have any concerns about brake lines and other lines being stretched when lifting this way? My mechanic wants to charge for 8 hours of labor to disconnect my whole engine before lifting. I was just going to do this myself.
I didn't really have any concerns (not sure if I should have). I also didn't lift it up super high.
That’s exactly what my mechanic tried to tell me was that it was 8 hours of labor and a cost of $1200. Also it’s a 2017 GMC Canyon in which i never off-road in , they shouldn’t have gone out this bad , this fast. You can see the wear on it easily.
Screw that, you can buy every tool you need to do it for less than that. I’ve racked up so many tools from thinking like this. With those tools I’ll save on car repair costs for a lifetime. You can figure out most things just by looking around enough, don’t even need a repair manual.
How is your truck doing after putting new bushings...?
@RobertConley I have a single cab is the 924-335 for all 4 on just the cab
Great video I’m doing the same job to my 98 Silverado in the next few days 2 of them are so far gone the cab sags about 3 in lower than the bed lmao
Dustin Venditti awesome! Happy repairs
The Daninator thank you I’m going to need it!! Hahaha
Wich part number did you use?
You should use Blue Loctite on those bolts
I pulled mine this morning and immediately had two of the bolts snap off. Do yourself a favor and get the bolts to replace the old ones when you buy your new bushings. If you buy bushings off Amazon or whatever, they may not come with new sleeves, so you may have to order new sleeves if they are needed. Check to make sure you are getting what you need. The bolts are 12-1.75 metric and can be purchased most anywhere.
Nice video, I am wondering what the issue was that lead you to realize that it was bad. I am having an odd frame twist clunk from the middle back somewhere when I turn especially. if the truck is sitting put and I go to the rear and shake the back of the bed left and right and get a rhythm going it clunk clunk back and forth both directions clunk. I have a stethoscope ordered to help. I wondered if it could be a mount and found your video and it just might be,,,,,,
Good video... Those "cupped" pieces actually go on top between cab and top of rubber mount.
Also I can say avoid Rockauto at any cost, if the part breaks outside of "their warranty" they refuse to honor the manufacturer warranty for refund or replacement. They claim 60 or 90 day warranty when manufacturer is typically 1 or more years, and when you contact manufacturer they say contact the seller. I learned this the hard way and am out hundreds, although I got lucky that the failed part did not lead to thousands on a overheated engine since it was stopped before getting too hot.
Computer cut me off I along with several friends have ordered thousands of dollars of parts from them never had any issues with parts. BEST PLACE TO ORDER ANYTHING FOR A VEHICLE AND FEDEX BRINGS IT TO YOUR DOOR,
Great vid - thank you!
Looks right to me same as 1 i got for my reg cab maybe they give u 1 for reg cab
Why mine wont come out?? Im trying to pull the bolt out, it moves (turning and turning) with the wrench but its not coming out
Any advice? The bolt is 21mm
Does this kit only have a picture of a bolt ? On rockauto
awesome...but I recommend you use grease on the bushing....WD40 will dry out the rubber and make it harden.....then you'll have to do it over
Getting ready to do replace all cab mounts, thanks for the heads up!
I need to do this to all of my body mounts.
How hard is it to change a bolt when you found one broken in the cab part
I'm doing a 2007 avalanche that is the bushing for the right rear the only one that has those shims in it
Mine look like yours but it’s for a 05 Yukon Denali I can’t seem to find them anywhere online or in store
Hi, where could I get information to replace my body mount of a Kia Rio5 2010 ?
i think gm designed planned obsolescence in these trucks. they designed them to rust so you have to buy new ones. my 89 k5 blazer is nearly rust free and is about fifteen years older.
Seems so. That, or they're just cutting corners to save money...but they still charge $45k for a new truck. I'm seeing 5-8 year old trucks (still brand new in my mind) of all makes and models that are rusting over the wheel wells and cab corners. It's ridiculous.
Spray the frame inside and out with clean motor oil mixed with kerosene. Then hit a dusty road to seal it in. Trucks frame will last forever
On
I will be at the office at th as well
You can do it for you
Eol. Serena you
Learning as I go as well. Learning the bolts and northeast calcium/salt are not your friends. Any way. Q: Are the Inner rocker Panels bad in this video?
Ive never seen rust like that down here in Texas. Do you live somewhere that it snows?
Yes, in good old Rust Belt, USA
Ohhhh that's not rust yet!
Same. I'm from new orleans and my truck looks almost like the day it rolled off the assembly line underneath. I've never seen rust like that unless it's a car that's been in the woods with a shit ton of a 3 ft pile of leaves for years.
@@jordancomeaux6888 we have 2007s here that don't even have enough metal to attach fender flares... by my 1951Chevy doesnt have holes through it. New metal sucks!
It looked to me like a front or number1 position body mount. Radiator support position.
That was radiator support mount the correct Dorman part # is 924-135
Excelente explicacion
Should have put some slygkide on the bushing where is fits through the frame, would have popped right in
I have a 1995 Chevy k1500 is it gonna be similar?
Its crazzy how much set of bushings cost dosent seem much tell dealing out money for old truck i like to do all at same time but dont like fixing stuff that isent broke and pay for hole set for my truck im just keeping alive day by day
You should not use we 40 on rubber!! Try using a good silicone spray or white lithium spray
Agreed…. It will eat it up like no tomorrow
Torque specs for the bolts?
From the looks of the rust, cab mounts should be the least of the worries.
Not all of us live in southern texas...
@@Yeozenhizenhaha 50% of my frame horn is rusted out so this truck looks new compared to most other trucks
Hello so recently me n my grandpa bought a 99 GMC sierra its got the 2000 body style extended cab the owner said if u go over 40mph it shakes violenty does anybody know what the possible issue is engine trans and rear all been redone before buying the previous owner was a good buddy of his put a lotta love into it has a 6inch lift but I'm trying to figure what to trouble shoot the possible cause ???
A few things come to mind...possibly a tire out of balance or tread separating, bad universal joints in driveshaft, or bad tie rods...
Is it 2 wheel or 4x4?
Thank you.
this is a great video, thanks
I wanted to replace just one in the front of my ‘97 Discovery, but it turns out I have to remove all of the other surrounding mounts to even lift the body from the frame. UGH!
Good video other videos did a lot of talking and no close-up shots
Cool shit thanks a lot man 👨🏿
3:18 does your frame has a hole? Or is just happy to see us?
@@lgnw-ong1189 looks can be deciving,eitherway check your frame before doin car mounts,i know my cab mounts on my 1500 were beyong shot
Кайена Арельяно Yeah most people don’t bother to check the condition of the mounts until there trashed. Most if not all are supposed to be changed every 50k by GM. But the number of people who keep up with preventative maintenance is slim to none. Sadly
@@lgnw-ong1189 especially if the cab is sitting in the frame and the cab mount spins freely XD
was gonna order the kit until I saw that the bolt you received wasn't the correct one. I don't have the original bolt (it was not there to begin with). ????????
Grind the edge of the new one on a grind stone. Turning it while grinding a tad.
I use energy suspension ployerthane it comes with 12 bushings much more savings than dorman for my 03 blazer don't have to do this ever again energy suspension is amazing for blazers
Did you loosen core support body mounts too?
I can't 100% remember, but I believe I loosened a couple of the mounts near this one so I could lift the cab up a little.
The Daninator ok thanks for the info.
Just loosen the body mounts to gain clearance.
Don't mind the steering linkage you're fucking up.
I don't know where to buy those for my Chevy what's store
I'm having a problem finding the body mounts for my 05 GMC. Dealer wants 1800 bucks. And rockauto didn't have them
@@ozziecrosby2092try www.partsgeek.com/ss/?ssq=Cab+mounts&make=chevrolet&model=silverado+1500+classic&year=2007&page=2
When bolt breaks inside. Now what? 🤯
Soak the threads in PB blaster, drill the center of the bolt, and get it out with an extractor.
Due to its location, environmentally, you should be using anti-seize compound on the threads as if in the future you may want to replace all the cab mount bushing's, cheapest insurance policy I know of to prevent cab mount bolts from locking up and breaking off, a whole nother can of worms!!!😮😮😮😮😮😮
I think you did not do this right at all and did several things that will make others who follow what you did potentially run into trouble and regret doing what you did. First, you should NOT use an impact to take these out! GM uses a liberal coating of Blue Loctite on these bolts. I just removed mine using a ratchet by hand. I encountered one in particular that got very tight trying to remove it (my 1991 has some rust, but not like yours). If you encounter resistance removing. Stop. Reverse and rotate several times screwing the bolts back in. Then reverse and start removing. Resistance, stop again. Do this several times until you feel it coming out without the resistance. Going in and out allows the Loctite to clear out of the threads. You were lucky with rust that bad that you didn't snap the bolt off, in which case you would have been phuqued. I had the two rear most cab mounts having the bolts "welded" with rust to the bottom retaining cup and needed to tap with a hammer lightly to disengage the bolt from the cup. The bolts were visibly thinned via rust at that junction. Also those rear cushions were toast. You did not use the top retaining cup that had those four tangs. It goes on the top of the upper cushion. It is there to prevent the top cushion from spreading out and potentially failing/splitting under a severe load. You need to put lubricating grease on the tops and bottoms of each cushion and in the center bolt location (basically everywhere the cushion sees contact with metal) so the body to frame doesn't develop annoying squeaks going over bumps. You should use Blue Loctite (like the factory does) to keep the replaced or reused bolts from backing out. The factory does this for a reason. I am using an Energy replacement set that does not come with the bolts. I would have at least turned the ones you reused on a wire wheel to prevent the caked on rust from fouling the nut when you reinstalled. The Blue Loctite would be on the bolt end, and some grease on the body of the bolt (for squeak prevention). There is another cushion set under the radiator, referred to as the "core". I think you need to at least loosen those too to replace the body cushions to prevent potential distortion between the body of the cab and the front clips, but am not sure about that. I am going to do those too since the kit comes with them. It doesn't make sense to me to replace one. It is likely that the other side in the same cab location is just the same as far as deterioration. If a customer says to only replace one side brake pad or shoe, would you do that? You need to torque the bolts. Someone below said 50 ft-lbs was the right spec from factory manual. Without torquing to spec, you risk them being too loose and backing out or too tight and damaging the cushion ending its life prematurely or preventing it from doing its intended job of cushioning the cab against vibration and jolts. The set did not come with replacement bolts, the retaining cups, or the washers. Because of this I had to wire brush my OEMs, treat with rust proofing (where I am now), and then repaint them to delay further decay. I started down this path installing some "nerf bars" to ease ingress/egress from the cab, and that is when I noticed the cushions were severely deteriorated (work begets work) and needed to be replaced. The nerf bar kit has hardware that you attach by removing the cushion bolts and came with replacement bolts for the cushion mounts, so I am intending to use those.
I don't think this video did a good job of showing how to do this "right"....but I am not taking the time and effort to film me doing it, so there is that.
Does anyone know the length of the bolt?
I've always been told not to use an impact on body mount bolts
I can see why. I used an impact to get my bolts off. I was in shock to find out that the end of the bolt was as thin as a pencil. It very well could have broke on me with the sheer amount of torque from the impact gun.
When the bolt breaks, you always blame whatever method you used to break it.
@james avery That makes sense.
Those are shims. So body lines match up.
I think the bolts are to be torqued to 55-60 ft. lbs.
that seems high if there is rubber to be squished. Where did you get your info ?
@@jamiesarkisian9769GM Repair manual says between 50-56 ft lbs
Thank you. Would think that would be in the video
What is it with these trucks and rust? I mean, I've seen 40 year old trucks with less rust than 5 year old trucks! The rockers on this truck were rusted completely out...and replaced with fiberglass.
Thinner paint and its water based to
i just bought a 2006 chevy avalanche, registered in cali for it's first 12 years, now it's here in AZ where it will spend the rest of it's life, the bushings are worn from the heat here and there, but maybe less than 5% of the entire truck has rust, it's mostly on bolts underneath the dash. the only two parts that are seemingly rusted are the driveshaft and the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer
however a friend of mine had a 2005 Ford Five Hundred that was here in AZ (although in a part where it snows in the winter) and the entire underside of his car was completely rusted out.
and my neighbors have a 2000 Ford explorer and it's completely rusted out as well.
You also have to take into account of the chemicals they use on the roads during the winter now it literally eats at vehicles
Seems like a fairly simple job
yes, not bad at all!
Tried replacing on my 01 silverado single cab and 3 bolts broke plus the the nut they bolt onto un welded inside !! How the hell do i fix that??? Anybody?
Cut holes in the cab on top side or sell it.
Can i get your say/opinion/ advice plz
Lots of parts won't exactly fit if their not oem
"Removing a body mount is pretty simple. "
Uh...not if they break off!
Or just spin
You got that right,,had to chop a hole in my cab to get mine out cause most of the bolt was gone,,no other way to get to it..
Shims for second position
Replacement: EASY
Drilling out broken bolt: DIFFICULT
Finding the part that fits: IMPOSSIBLE
looks like most videos out there you guys are back east..all that cancer on cabs of trucks
I don't know what the deal is I have a 03 and there's literally parts from 99-07 my new cluster came from a 05 with a rotted n broke frame one rear door is from a 2000 zero rust my first rearend 1/3 now the axle housing rotted all the way thru engine & trans I put in last year from a 02 sierra 100k complete rot box. The 5.3 not one problem what so ever. I send it in the danger zone everyday purrs like a kitten. I've had mine 2 years it's a ongoing fight salt in pa is just killing them. Next on yours will be the engine harness grounds on the body mount under the drivers door had to grind all the rust clean and rebolt them truck wouldn't even start anymore.
Yup, the truck is rotting down around the tough as nails 5.3. I've had more trouble with the body than the drivetrain.
and its still crooked
Maybe should have greased it
i agree body mounts on a rust bucket,,,whats the point
Because these trucks can develop an obnoxious body-to-frame rattle once the rubber body mounts wear out. The GMT800 platform is otherwise a fairly quiet full size 4wd vehicle to drive, even the suburbans. GM released has released several technical service bulletins related to body mounts for these trucks (99-07).
it wouldn't go that easy for me !
Go Indians! Or Guardians….
Why y'all always show just the easy spots. Everyone know the front one are the time consuming.
It's a demonstration video on a how to
Holl. You