Anycubic Delta Print Quality | Printer Problems & Solutions!
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Anycubic Kossel Delta: goo.gl/mx5hdB
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I have one of these printers and like it a lot. Many prints done over the past year. It did need a few changes. Mainly the power supply which was totally inadequate and burned out. I believe they now send out better supplies. I replaced mine with a 30 amp supply from Amazon, it looks like the one in this video. I was able to adjust the driver voltages to 1 volt and it worked OK but I found it very noisy so replaced drivers with tmc2100 drivers and it is very quiet now. The V5 hot end clogged up a lot so finally I replaced it with a V6 hotend that does not have that little piece of teflon tubing inside that causes a lot of trouble. Hasn't clogged up once since. It needed a spacer block for the V6 hotend which I found on Thingiverse. The manual bed leveling was very tricky but once I got it right, have had no trouble. I use pro-mask blue painters tape by Block-it on the unheated bed and it works great. Not all blue tape works well. Also put an outside brace on the carriages from Thingiverse which helps wheel alignment and tension. Mostly print with PLA at 205 deg c but also with PETG at 230 deg c.
I just got the upgraded version and have had nothing but good luck with it. I assembled it, updated the firmware, downloaded cura that was on the supplied memory card and started printing, as of now there are still no issues! Good luck buddy
Game of Drones what version of Cura are you using?
layne182 I’m wanting to say it’s 3.2.1 but I’d have to look later when I get home
did you get home yet
The Linear version was my first, 3yrs ago, and I cut-my-teeth on this printer. Printed a 3ft sword and the 2001 Discovery spaceship with this. I still have it though I have bought two of the big brother Predator Anycubic deltas, you should review as well. Just completed a set of armor with those.
Man glad to hear you solved yours. Mines (Linear Plus version) just could not be leveled correctly. I did the endstop screws method, but either one of the screws could not go in any more, or one would fall out from being turned too high, so I could not get any of the three towers to be the same nozzle tip distance from the bed. I then got a BLtouch and the latest 1.1.4 and 1.1.5 firmware and set it and did G33 to get the settings and after that the G29 and such, still no luck. Keeps squishing the first layer on the back of the printer and too high in the front. I'm at a lost at what to do and right now waiting for PETG to arrive to try my last attempt, which is leveling knobs to be able to manual level the bed itself. My first Delta printer and probably my last, way too much pain to work with. Over 30+ hours spent just trying to level it.
iamthebest22 Buy the EZbed leveling software works wonders
I've been hearing great thing about that, what Marlin firmware does EzBed leveling use?
iamthebest22 good question let me get back to you on that I'll have to wait till this print is done
Never mind i found it,
iamthebest22 Bravo! Happy Printing!
I just bought a linear rail version of this printer for 70 USD. The reason it's so cheap is probably that the previous owner does not know how to tighten T nuts. Almost off of them are vertical in the extruded aluminum and the printhead shakes for over 5mm... And yes the t nuts are tightened so much I could feel his frustration.
Hello. help to solve the problem. on the DELTA printer, I print a circle, an oval. I changed belts, changed motors, changed pipes that hold the extruder, the table is calibrated. I can't print a smooth circle, thanks in advance
Sound like you were horrendously unlucky with yours, I would have sent it back. Bought this as my third printer and been pretty sound from the first print. Hope this doesn't put people of the Kossel, its a solid choice.
Only thing I would say is definitely spend the bit extra for the plus - the carriages on the pulley are poor and you'll really appreciate the larger buildplate.
Also the original printed sticker suck. Go to your local art store and get a 10inch mirror for 3 dollars and tape it down. That alone can give you perfect ABS adhesion every time.
I have a problem. I can not get full pwm adjustment for the cooling fan printing. do you have full control of this fan and how did you deal with it?
I have a Problem with my anycubic kossel: when He is doing a big move He always scratches over the print and becouse that sometimes Supports are breaking of the printing bed
hi there, I buy my anycubic, and already update the firmware but still can't print , can someone help me to start at least my first print, many thanks
Hey I'm having the issue that you had where there print is printing a couple of layers and then dying. I don't have a spare power supply at hand so where do you suggest I get one/which one should I get? Thank you
A little curious on your power supply problem. Did you have the heatbed power plugged directly into a socket then your power supply into a separate socket. I notice that if I have only 1 plugged in, both pieces look as if they are on. I've read both together require more power than can be drawn from just the power supply. I've not tested this though.
thats weird , I have the linear version of this printer, and out of the box, there was no issue at all,
Mine refuses to feed the filament. Never see the extruder motor feed anything to the head.
I got one also and I can not figure out what's wrong. the prints are insanely messy and none of my normal solutions for stringing or ringing are working
I love mine, deltas alway finish their print in 75% of the time slicer's estimate. The only thing I'd fix is putting the mobo, up, not under the hotend.
is ender 3 is better than this?
do you still have you da vinci 1.0 printer ?
I can’t get mine to print
I really need some help
Is it possible to send me your version of the Arduino code that you are using?
I don't have the file anymore sadly sorry I need to start saving all of the firmwares I use for the different printers
Having issues with the print sticking to the plate on mine do you have any issues with that if so do you have any tips to make it stick to the table please let me know thanks
I did not have any issues with it sticking to the plate if you have the sheet on it that has the rough service it should stick well chances are that the bed is not level or your nozzle is not close enough to the bed I would start with looking at that
I’m having a problem someone may be able to help me with. When my nozzle is 10mm from the print bed I tell the nozzle to move 100mm in any plus or minus X or Y direction the nozzle is then extremely close to the build plate, I’ve tried finding the Delta_Rod_Length in my firmware code in the Arduino software and after reuploading the new firmware it still does the same thing I measured the center to center rod length and changed it but still nothing! Please help with any suggestions
I had the same issue. If you are using the Marlin firmware search for the EEPROM settings. If this is enabled the printer stores the default values which were first uploaded in the EEPROM and does not use the values that you write in the firmware configuration afterwards. I think there is also an M* command to store the new values in EEPROM.
I have the same printer, I have a bad time getting the firmware to work. I am really disappointed in this printer.
It's kind of a piece of junk if you had to replace the drivers, power supply, and make hold downs. I got mine assembled after 2 years in the box, and no filament is coming through the nozzle, so I guess I'll be tearing mine apart.
any help with the setup? i followed the instructions exactly and when it starts every print the nozzle is pressing on the build plate
mine is hovering. like 3cm from the surface.. heelp
If you didn't get it fixed, you need to set the Z Position. Once that is done, it should work fine. Use the auto leveling procedure in the manual.
@@adeliasetiawan1614 z-offset -15.7
I see diagonal lines in all your prints. I just got my printer today and I see the same diagonal lines on the surfaces
I dont see them on my. Only horizontals and verticals. The first print was exellent with marlin 1.1.8. Then its start scratch when it move extruder across infill. Changed to marlin 1.1.9. Didnt help. Then i decided that its calibration problem. Find our printer measurements: diagonal rod 267.5 (rail version)(267 in marlin website settings, i use it but horizontal holes is smaller), z-offset -15.7 (or -15.6). Lowered accelerations to 1000-1500. Now, it prints fine. In some firmware diagonal rods 271. I didnt check this size. Tryed marlin 2.0.0 - Its laggy in menu.
@@woofkaf7724 nice I wonder if it's the issue with painted vs anodized extrusions causing them.
I have "thermal runaway printer halted" error, do you know how can i solve it?
Aykut Coşkun that usually means the thermometer that is underneath the rod in the hot end is slipping out
I solved the problem by changing the codes. Thank you anyway :)
i'm looking to buy a new printer after my prusa i3 clone. Would you recommend this? I know it would need some modifications/upgrades but is it worth it?
If you already have experience building a printer then this can definitely be a fun project to work on. Its definitely got a lot to offer a very sturdy frame large build volume and all tweaking aside the build was alot of fun and I am happy with the end result
ModBot Awesome! I don't know much about delta printers so hopefully this will help me expand my knowledge on 3d printers! Will definitely consider buying.
Kenny Adams I have done a ton of Cartesian style builds delta is a different beast man but like you said the more you know it expands your knowledge of 3d printing
ModBot Can if it is possible could you contact me and help me with my leveling of this printer?
Thanks for your informative video but I have a BIG problem with the safety of your power supply wiring. I have pointed out to Anycubic that it's absolutely not acceptable to supply that type of power supply without an enclosure. This is the type they supply with the heated bed. When it's installed there is no need for the smaller supply they also send.Do you realise how dangerous those bare, exposed left-hand side mains (L, N) terminals are?Even more so in countries with 240V mains.Let's all spread the word and maybe save some lives. Buy a plastic enclosure and isolate the supply from accidental skin contact. Think of those inquisitive little kid's fingers...I hope this helps. Be safe!
I'm going to buy a new board for my 3D printer because it keeps on acting weird. My 3D printer stops mid print to recenter. I bought my car.
hey! congrats on the car thats awesome! That is bizarre about the printer though you just going to the ramps arduino combo???
ModBot yeah, I'm tired of the board acting up on me and that seems like the best option
not a bad idea if you have tried other fixes the ramps ardiuno setup isnt to expensive either which is nice
Great video..what settings are you using now .thanks
gregory James my neighbor actually has this printer now! Sorry I don't know what setting he is using!
What size does the filament have? Is it 3mm or 1,75mm?
1.75! :D
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Great footage. Thank you
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