Sorry to be off topic but does someone know a way to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Augustus Mark I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thanks for video, I am also loading for 300 PRC. I’m using the Lee Classic Turret Press, it can do the 300 PRC no problem. I’m going to try your recipe, maybe back off a little for safety’s sake 😊
You might have better results with a regular large rifle primer unless it’s super cold but I shoot a 300 rum set up for ELR with 33” barrel with 100 grains powder and I found it more consistent with regular large primers
Could you leave some links to where you bought your equipment? Very new to reloading just got A 300 PRC can't wait to try some load development for my Ruger precision
Hey Gavin. Mec upgraded the handle on the your press. Give them a call and they will send you out a new upgraded handle and pivot arm. They upgraded the threads from 1/4 to half inch. I can tell you have the old handle because they changed the locking nut to the bottom. I was having issues with the handle coming loose while sizing. cheers!
I have the same scale and I was about to buy the dispense system but after see that mess of spilled powder thanks to your high-res videos I better stay with my hand system :-)
Great stuff Gavin. Very informative videos you provide. Have a Ruger Precision in 300 Win Mag but have only broken it in, and shot to 1000 yds. We have a mile range on our farm for my 50 BMG and 338 LM. Have a Ruger Precision in 300 PRC, but have not touched it yet. Winter has arrived, and next year I need to do some more shooting. Just bought the Hornady Match ammo for now. We will see how it goes. keep up the good work Gavin!!
Agree. The side by side of a minimal body bump and the Lee Collet, versus the traditional die, to see two things. Does the difference in prep translate to groups or SD, and, does the trimming requirement change?
I just purchased a Rock Chucker IV, a Hornady Iron Press, and a RCBS Summit Press since these were the top 3 of 4 in many categories. Also I don't want/cant afford a 1000.00 single stage press. I shopped for the most accurate presses that would allow 3.75" of case capacity as well. I plan on doing OAL, runout and concentricity tests of my own to see if they match yours. Whichever one wins will be my loading presses the other can be a bullet puller / deprime press I suppose :) Maybe we all should do this and build a database perhaps.
right now im really excited about three things thanks to your channel. 300 PRC, The hornady iron press kit, and the rcbs matchmaster dies. I know on paper the iron press should be barely too small to load 300 prc to saami lengths, but i was wondering with the ability to load bullets through the window of a matchmaster die if you think it might be possible. thanks a ton for all the content.
why no crimp? in my opinion, one needs consistent neck tension to get the ultimate in precision...and a consistent neck tension is critical...curious as to your thoughts and experience Gavin?
Hey G, do you or do you recommend crimping for the .300 prc? I’m running a .300prc that weighs 10.5 lbs. Recoil is a touch heavy on it. I’m new to reloading so looking for good quality opinions.
You have all the neat equipment and do so much to ensure accurate loads I wonder if you would consider the following: Outside turn and lap necks, avoid expander button by sizing with a button. work up the best load for accuracy, noting std dev and es, then do 10 5 shot groups alternating between weighed charges and thrown charges. good technique and a fine measure like a Harrell Precision with bearings would be in order. Maybe clean after every group or so allowind a fouling shot if needed. get es and std dev along with aggregate of the 5 groups to compare. In the old days I went to shoots with 75 or more shooters and never remember seeing a scale anywhere. My contention is that if the seleceted load is in one of those flat spots on the curve, up to 1/10 grain does not matter as other variables will obliterate it. I realize times have changed and the equipment for weighing is better, just saying!
Did you tumble your brass at all or just a quick wipedown? How about a video on whether or not a wet tumble will affect your accuracy at all? How about a wet tumble to clean your brass than after you resize and trim a corn cob tumble to remove lube, with that help in any way?
Agree. He said he lubed the inside of the necks too, but then how was that removed, or was it?Does that neck ID prep affect the velocity stat or the group size?The AMP guys make a point to show a huge effect from just brushing the neck prior to seating in their last video on the motorized force gage press. Shouldn't leaving Imperial lube in the neck make a big difference too?
Dino C. I wouldn’t leave Imperial inside the necks. And if I was loading for a semi-auto I would make sure I cleaned it all off good. Plus, the powder tends to stick to the lube when charging the cases, some more than others depending on the type. The same for when I use lanolin/alcohol mix. But I do use Imperial Dry Neck Lube especially if I’m just neck sizing only. I’ll give the insides of the necks a quick brush beforehand, dip the neck in, resize, and wipe off outside. I don’t worry about the inside with the dry lube so much. Supposed to be ok. But sometimes I give another brush once for consistency before seating if trying to get the best es and sd and accuracy at long distances. Not sure if the last helps or not though.
You should buy an RCBS neck sizing dye, there's no need to full length size your fired case. If you can find some, there's Winchester powder called WMR1, it works wonders in the .300 Win mag.
Waiting for your test to see which press has the best alignment. Is it the Prazzi,RCBS summit,Forster co ax, or MEC? Does an arbor press help to minimize runout?
Thanks, Gavin. I'm looking to step up to a long-range precision rifle, and the .300 PRC looks like a great option. Currently, reloading smaller calibers and appreciate you sharing your process and especially your attention to all the details! Will follow.
I don't have alot of money to spend on a new single stage press. I watched your14 press shootout and have narrowed it down to the RCBS Sumit, and the MEC Marksman. In your opinion, which of these 2 presses would be best for loading everything from 22-458 win Mag with the best end results ? ,
I know this is about loading 300 PRC but just curious if you're still using from time to time or recommend the MEC Marksman??? I started on a RCBS Partner press then I bought a new Dillon 550C but I kept my Partner press so I can do all my sizing and load development on. The Partner press was an ok press it didn't make the most precise reloads but it got the job done. Now it's worn out and I've got to the point with my shooting and reloading that it's holding me back so I'm looking for a good precise single stage press. The MEC Marksman, the RCBS Summit, and possibly Forster Co-Ax are the 3 I'm looking at but really either the MEC or RCBS is what I'm wanting to buy... Any info would be appreciated!!!
Awesome video...but I wonder if you check runouts for concentricity. Or is that a concern. Also, I don't know if you double check or have any concern about base-to-ogive measurement on each load since you did not mention bullet sorting for weight and ogive consistancies.
Gavin, what do you have to say Re: Annealing? I anneal new brass, range pickup brass and sometimes brass that has been shot by my own weapons but has sat dormant for a long time. Otherwise, I don't do this each time I reuse a piece of brass. So, pray tell, what is correct?
Awesome content Gavin 👍 Although I reckon the priming tool is a bit of a wank feature. Adjusting depth to primers is just throwing in more variables. Primers should be seated right into the primer pocket no questions asked in my opinion. Plenty of match shooters have great success and win doing that. Still great stuff mate
I noticed you didnt clean up the flash holes, and uniform the primer pockets. Are those two extra steps not necessary? As in would it make any difference in performance?
I do both myself, but have seen several test done showing minimal to no bennys when uniforming pockets. Flash hole deburr i feel is a must. I continue to do pockets out of habit.
I have the exact same rifle. I have the Savage 110 Elite 300PRC with the 30inch barrel. Just bought my first box of ammo lastnight. After shipping I paid $148.90 just for 20 rounds. 🤦And with all the equipment and machines I see you using it looks like this is going to be a VERY expensive rifle to shoot either way I go.
This might be a very stupid question because I'm still learning about reloading and about to get into it": but why do we need to anneal brass? And when should you anneal? Thank you
I have loaded thousands of rounds over the last 60 years and never done it. and no problems , they always used to just sit them in a pan of water , heat the neck and tip them over
I was just wondering how your Kelbly Atlas 300PRC is doing? I was contemplating building one as well but considering custom 1:7 twist using heavy high BC bullets…Have you been happy with its accuracy??
Since you are only bumping your shoulder .001 when the barrel heats up aren’t you going to have a harder time seating these rounds, don’t you want at least .002 bump on a bolt action and .003 bump on semi auto rifles?
Should you anneal rifle brass every time speaking of .223 but including all rifle brass or how often should i anneal and at what temperature should i do the .223
hey Gavin! Would love to see a detailed load development using multiple commonly available powder... like H 1000 and IMR 7828 and other powders too... whatever is clever!
Awesome vids Gavin. Been a fan for some time now. Keep the reloading videos coming. Question about making a modified case. I don’t have a lathe, or drill press, nor do I have access to either. Are there any other accurate methods to make one? I purchased the correct tap. Just need a way to accurately drill and tap my cases.
With the shortage of 300 PRC components out there and several shooters who don't like Hornady brass, can you show some methods of forming 300 PRC out of other, more available cases?
Precision shooters: have special annealing machines, must be perfect Me: has a blowtorch, a TTT diagram/recrystalization chart, and a degree in Materials Engineering, eh its close enough
I used a socket a blow torch and tempil stick for a long time. Even made a video about it and people crapped on my telling me i annealed to far down. (spoiler I didnt) Technique > Gear. The Gear just makes life easier.
When you bumped the shoulder 0.001 was that from a once fired case or a snug fitting case or off of a chamber print? And wouldn't that make a difference?
gavintoobe try shooting one case 2-3 times until it gets a little bit more snug in the chamber then bump the shoulder and compare that length to your once fired brass length with the 0.001 bump you gave it.
If you wanted to be scientific about this, you'd reload "normally" and see what differences you would get. Not anneal, standard hand primer, throw and trickel powder from a standard set up. What is the delta between the $6K reloading set up and the $1K (or less) setup.
that would be interesting. Loading a known accurate recipe after a simple resize and trim on something like a lee challenger press with lee dies, and then charge with the lee perfect powder measure or something similar (budget / medium quality scale for instance). Then do the exact same cartridge but with all of the extra bells and whistles on a fancy press and test both for accuracy. I've been wanting to do something similar but with weighing and sorting brass, bullets, primers, vs just grabbing components and sticking them together. I actually think my groups have tightened up some since switching to a powder measure over trying to weigh and trickle. The inexpensive scales seem to wander over time (sometimes a lot, .5-1 grains isn't unheard of with the shitty ones I've used) and that isn't something that you have to worry about with the measure, even if it isn't as accurate. The inaccuracy is accurate, where an intermittently wandering scale is hard to account for.
Agreed, that would be interesting! I read a few articles basically saying once you get a standard deviation below 8 fps and 1/2 moa accuracy to stop stressing the reloading process. I do think you need to go to the extreme if shooting elr.
Precision is precision - but to what degree? Using, as Rumble hints, what gain in accuracy can be seen when going all in with Gavin's process?. I use my Dillon RL550B with Dillon or RCBS or Hornady or Lee or Forster dies, depending on what I like in any given caliber(load several calibers.) But, my downrange results are consistent. There are some differences between load work up thus it is all in logbooks. If I were trying to mail a gnat's ass at 1000 yds then I might want to go in tor the super precise handload process. I must say, though, if I could afford all the toys in the Gavin classroom I would have many of them. I get great results out to 300 yds which for this 71 year old 11B is far enough. I can.t even see 300 yds......
Hi there, I'm a young shooter from New Zealand. I use the lee 50th anniversary set, lapua brass, CCI primers, IMR4064 and Hornady ELD-M 178gr projectiles. My current load consistently prints sub .4 MOA at groups at 100m out of my Suppressed but otherwise completely stock remington 700 SPS tactical .308. I am fairly picky about ensuring that the powder charge is as near to identical every load using the balance beam powder scale. I am religious about brass cleanliness and very careful with the necks of the brass after shoulder bumping with the lee neck sizing die. I have never measured neck tension/runout as I don't have the tools. I'm not convinced that it would be worth the time investment. My rifle cost $1100 NZD and the reloading setup was $350 NZD. Sure, the way I load is very time consuming but goes to show that with patience and practice there is no need to spend thousands on either rifles or reloading gear. I would argue that precision reloading and shooting is 90% care and patience and 10% accurate gear.
I am reading your article interestingly. Recently, I saw Reddit reloading 82 grain of N570 powder to achieve a speed of 2905 (hornady 250grain a-tip 26barrel). He said the life span of the barrel is only slightly reduced and there is no safety issue. But, According to the reload data released by Hornardy, The maximum charge was 77 grain(when used h1000 powder) So, I wonder Is it really safe. What do you think about that?
FYI, .001 shoulder bump will not be enough for each case, as each case will vary in the amount it wants to be bumped. I always go .002 to .003 to get the best accuracy.
lukkar69 , hi that’s exactly what I have to do with my 6.5x47 cases and I do anneal with the AMP annealer and I have a custom cut chamber and use Whidden dies , I use Lapua brass and still they don’t all resize the same , annealing softens the neck and shoulders yes , but the brass can very in different thicknesses resulting with some moving forward more than others.
GianniG, exactly, I want zero contact of the case what so ever, if you bump it at .001 and one is touching you will get a pressure spike that will give you vertical in your groups. I’ve learned the hard way.
Yes your right , when I started to reload this particular cartridge { 6.5x47 } I would bump 1.5 thou / 0.002 thou then chamber some of the rounds only to find that some would fit back into the chamber fairly smoothly and some would be extremely tight so I had to bump back to 3 / 3.5 thou to get cases to rechamber properly, but one of the problems we reloaders face is that we can spend good money on custom chambers only to have factory spec dies to resize our brass which is not that good in the real world, custom dies would need to be made or homed to better fit and resize our brass.
It's great to see the-sky-is-the-limit reloading techniques. There's one aspect that sort of fascinates me, but information on it is VERY thin (but extant): primer and bullet sealants. There are actually precision machines to "microinject" tiny quantities of sealants onto the primer and bullet seating crevices -- but the same can be done precisely by hand as well. In this case I'd be curious if there was an effect on accuracy and/or pressures (I wouldn't think so). Especially with this sort of super-precision rifle, I like the (sort of fantasy) idea of loading several hundred rounds, all sealed and stable, for...you know, a "rainy day." Anyone have any experience or interest in primer and bullet sealants?
I always enjoy your content. But clearly you are a professional handloader, not the average Joe DeerTaag running up a few rounds for opening day. I'm more the latter. Hence, the handloading investments I've made are simply a means to an end, not the end goal in and of itself. Guess that's why I still use my same ol' RCBS Rock Chucker II single stage press kit I bought over thirty years ago for something like $250 bucks. 😂
Kent Hall looks like a good thought but are you trying to weigh the primer cup or the primer chemical quantity of each primer and even if you get a consistant weight on a batch how can you tell if there's more weigh of the cup with less content of the primer chemical versus less weight of each cup with more chemical balancing out your weight measured?
Initially much more expensive. If you write off the cost of the gear I'd say 1/2 to 2/3. It more about tailoring the ammunition to your rifle. The cost saving is a bonus 😉
The comparison is waste of money. I load my win mag at a little over 3.7 coal and around 2.940" ogive. 2930fps avg. with 77.4gr of H1000. If I was retarded, I'd make a big deal out the belt on the case and cry about not being able to load them long (this one I still don't get) and start menstruating like some do, but I don't. I size just like I do any other cartridge and bump the shoulder a couple thousandths and I'm off to a mile.
I’ve done both full length and neck sizing and honestly haven’t had issues with either method. Interesting of f class using full length resizing though
I shoot 1000 yard br nilot f-class and almost everybody I know including an awful lot of hall of farmers only use full length dies. The reason is simple. If you only neck size in about 3 reloads your brass will grow beyond the headspace of your chamber resulting in hard bolt close when clambering your round. The brass will be inconsistent lengths also and one might close hard and one might close real easy. Brass that chambers hard meaning you feel pressure on the bolt handle when closing it will flex your action and brass that closes easy will not. This will induce vertical into your groups. Full length sizing can push your shoulder back the desired .001 to .003 and bring the shoulder diamameter and body down a couple thou also. These will chamber very easily because they have the required clearance now.when everything fits right your shoulder will be no more than .003 shorter and if you take the firecontrol out of your bolt the handle will fall closed under its own weight. Easy bolt close helps in another way also. It helps keep your gun stable in the bags while loading. All this consistency is very important to group good at 1000 yards. It's really needed to shoot your best 100 and 200 yard groups too. Short range benchrest guys full length size now also. I will never own another neck only die again unless you have a body die to run with it. His garage is like the reloading compared to cars of Jay Leno. A person with 1000 bucks can make ammo as good as a 6000 set up. There are very good tools available to the average reloader now. Proper use is what's needed to get the results. Good luck guys and if you don't understand some of what I just said ask and I will say it a different or more complete way for you.
I like how the 300prc hornady dies come with the wrong seating stem and it deforms the bullets that hornady loads in their factory ammo…. How does the team that produced this half baked product have a job anymore? Helpful tip: lookup hornady part number 397111 for loading 225gr ELDM.
Gavin, try wilson arbor dies, better concentricity and very precise! Cheers! If you want the roll royce of presses check out the "eterna" of Salvadori firenze, you can find them on facebook, the best press in the word for.me
You know when you bend a wire back and forth it work hardens and breaks? Aneling normalizes the case so that it can be worked for longer periods of time before failure and maintains neck tension.
This is a long video/podcast ruclips.net/video/HZ0yw-Q3atI/видео.html But it will give you the answers you crave. Long story short, the 300 PRC outperforms every 30 caliber on the market, and outperforms every 338 lapua load on the market.
I'm drooling at all that equipment
best. series. ever.
Thanks you Gavin for sharing your experiences using all of the high end equipment available, and giving us something to aspire to.
Sorry to be off topic but does someone know a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Jairo Kyng instablaster :)
@@jairokyng7550 all you need to do is place your phone in a microwave oven set on high for 30 seconds. That should solve the problem
@Augustus Mark I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Augustus Mark It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
Thanks for video, I am also loading for 300 PRC. I’m using the Lee Classic Turret Press, it can do the 300 PRC no problem. I’m going to try your recipe, maybe back off a little for safety’s sake 😊
You might have better results with a regular large rifle primer unless it’s super cold but I shoot a 300 rum set up for ELR with 33” barrel with 100 grains powder and I found it more consistent with regular large primers
Could you leave some links to where you bought your equipment? Very new to reloading just got A 300 PRC can't wait to try some load development for my Ruger precision
Hey Gavin. Mec upgraded the handle on the your press. Give them a call and they will send you out a new upgraded handle and pivot arm. They upgraded the threads from 1/4 to half inch. I can tell you have the old handle because they changed the locking nut to the bottom. I was having issues with the handle coming loose while sizing. cheers!
Curious as to why you used a press that didn't score at the top of your 14 press comparison test?
I have the same scale and I was about to buy the dispense system but after see that mess of spilled powder thanks to your high-res videos I better stay with my hand system :-)
Great stuff Gavin. Very informative videos you provide. Have a Ruger Precision in 300 Win Mag but have only broken it in, and shot to 1000 yds. We have a mile range on our farm for my 50 BMG and 338 LM. Have a Ruger Precision in 300 PRC, but have not touched it yet. Winter has arrived, and next year I need to do some more shooting. Just bought the Hornady Match ammo for now. We will see how it goes. keep up the good work Gavin!!
I'd like to see you try a Lee Collet sizing die combined with he occasional use of a Redding body die.
Agree. The side by side of a minimal body bump and the Lee Collet, versus the traditional die, to see two things. Does the difference in prep translate to groups or SD, and, does the trimming requirement change?
I just purchased a Rock Chucker IV, a Hornady Iron Press, and a RCBS Summit Press since these were the top 3 of 4 in many categories. Also I don't want/cant afford a 1000.00 single stage press. I shopped for the most accurate presses that would allow 3.75" of case capacity as well. I plan on doing OAL, runout and concentricity tests of my own to see if they match yours. Whichever one wins will be my loading presses the other can be a bullet puller / deprime press I suppose :) Maybe we all should do this and build a database perhaps.
Never reloaded but plan on starting. I enjoyed your video but it didn't all make sense to me. Will keep watching all the PRC videos you make.
right now im really excited about three things thanks to your channel. 300 PRC, The hornady iron press kit, and the rcbs matchmaster dies. I know on paper the iron press should be barely too small to load 300 prc to saami lengths, but i was wondering with the ability to load bullets through the window of a matchmaster die if you think it might be possible. thanks a ton for all the content.
Bring on the 6.5 PRC build!
why no crimp? in my opinion, one needs consistent neck tension to get the ultimate in precision...and a consistent neck tension is critical...curious as to your thoughts and experience Gavin?
I like your modified case for bullet seating depth.
Hey G, do you or do you recommend crimping for the .300 prc? I’m running a .300prc that weighs 10.5 lbs. Recoil is a touch heavy on it. I’m new to reloading so looking for good quality opinions.
Is the 300 PRC Have enough case capacity to single this Caliber out from other 300s
You have all the neat equipment and do so much to ensure accurate loads I wonder if you would consider the following:
Outside turn and lap necks, avoid expander button by sizing with a button. work up the best load for accuracy, noting std dev and es, then do 10 5 shot groups alternating between weighed charges and thrown charges. good technique and a fine measure like a Harrell Precision with bearings would be in order. Maybe clean after every group or so allowind a fouling shot if needed. get es and std dev along with aggregate of the 5 groups to compare. In the old days I went to shoots with 75 or more shooters and never remember seeing a scale anywhere. My contention is that if the seleceted load is in one of those flat spots on the curve, up to 1/10 grain does not matter as other variables will obliterate it. I realize times have changed and the equipment for weighing is better, just saying!
Do they fit in a standard AICS long action magazine? Got a 300 prc barreled action on its way! Can’t wait!
Did you tumble your brass at all or just a quick wipedown? How about a video on whether or not a wet tumble will affect your accuracy at all? How about a wet tumble to clean your brass than after you resize and trim a corn cob tumble to remove lube, with that help in any way?
Agree. He said he lubed the inside of the necks too, but then how was that removed, or was it?Does that neck ID prep affect the velocity stat or the group size?The AMP guys make a point to show a huge effect from just brushing the neck prior to seating in their last video on the motorized force gage press. Shouldn't leaving Imperial lube in the neck make a big difference too?
Dino C. I wouldn’t leave Imperial inside the necks. And if I was loading for a semi-auto I would make sure I cleaned it all off good. Plus, the powder tends to stick to the lube when charging the cases, some more than others depending on the type. The same for when I use lanolin/alcohol mix.
But I do use Imperial Dry Neck Lube especially if I’m just neck sizing only. I’ll give the insides of the necks a quick brush beforehand, dip the neck in, resize, and wipe off outside. I don’t worry about the inside with the dry lube so much. Supposed to be ok. But sometimes I give another brush once for consistency before seating if trying to get the best es and sd and accuracy at long distances. Not sure if the last helps or not though.
Gavin your putting out the best content. Keep'em coming
you're
You should buy an RCBS neck sizing dye, there's no need to full length size your fired case. If you can find some, there's Winchester powder called WMR1, it works wonders in the .300 Win mag.
So I was told that the 300 prc had a tapered neck “thickness “ and bushing dies are not needed unless your turning the necks .. is this true?
Waiting for your test to see which press has the best alignment. Is it the Prazzi,RCBS summit,Forster co ax, or MEC? Does an arbor press help to minimize runout?
I thought for sure youat were going to show us Run Out.... I would like to see that.
Thanks, Gavin. I'm looking to step up to a long-range precision rifle, and the .300 PRC looks like a great option. Currently, reloading smaller calibers and appreciate you sharing your process and especially your attention to all the details! Will follow.
I don't have alot of money to spend on a new single stage press. I watched your14 press shootout and have narrowed it down to the RCBS Sumit, and the MEC Marksman. In your opinion, which of these 2 presses would be best for loading everything from 22-458 win Mag with the best end results ?
,
I know this is about loading 300 PRC but just curious if you're still using from time to time or recommend the MEC Marksman??? I started on a RCBS Partner press then I bought a new Dillon 550C but I kept my Partner press so I can do all my sizing and load development on. The Partner press was an ok press it didn't make the most precise reloads but it got the job done. Now it's worn out and I've got to the point with my shooting and reloading that it's holding me back so I'm looking for a good precise single stage press. The MEC Marksman, the RCBS Summit, and possibly Forster Co-Ax are the 3 I'm looking at but really either the MEC or RCBS is what I'm wanting to buy... Any info would be appreciated!!!
Do you have to do all of this to load for the 300 prc? If this is the case, I will not be able to obtain everything needed to load for this cartridge.
Unfortunately 300 prc brass,primers,and powder here in Australia is like gold at the moment.
Awesome video...but I wonder if you check runouts for concentricity. Or is that a concern. Also, I don't know if you double check or have any concern about base-to-ogive measurement on each load since you did not mention bullet sorting for weight and ogive consistancies.
Gavin, what do you have to say Re: Annealing? I anneal new brass, range pickup brass and sometimes brass that has been shot by my own weapons but has sat dormant for a long time. Otherwise, I don't do this each time I reuse a piece of brass. So, pray tell, what is correct?
Awesome content Gavin 👍
Although I reckon the priming tool is a bit of a wank feature. Adjusting depth to primers is just throwing in more variables. Primers should be seated right into the primer pocket no questions asked in my opinion. Plenty of match shooters have great success and win doing that.
Still great stuff mate
Hey Gavin, how far off the lands do you typically start with seating depth?
Your equip.ent is worth more than my house.
I have loaded ammo that shoots one ragged hole with a lee loader and a mallet.
Yes given care and accurate dies you can reload very good ammunition without the high cost. The nice gear is nice to have but not necessary.
Rich man's room!
I noticed you didnt clean up the flash holes, and uniform the primer pockets. Are those two extra steps not necessary? As in would it make any difference in performance?
I do both myself, but have seen several test done showing minimal to no bennys when uniforming pockets. Flash hole deburr i feel is a must. I continue to do pockets out of habit.
Depends on the brass. Lapua for instance rarely needs anything doing to it.
I’m interested in building a 7mm-300prc do you have any suggestions.
I have the exact same rifle. I have the Savage 110 Elite 300PRC with the 30inch barrel. Just bought my first box of ammo lastnight. After shipping I paid $148.90 just for 20 rounds. 🤦And with all the equipment and machines I see you using it looks like this is going to be a VERY expensive rifle to shoot either way I go.
This might be a very stupid question because I'm still learning about reloading and about to get into it": but why do we need to anneal brass? And when should you anneal?
Thank you
It's not needed to reload. Makes the neck easier to work basically.
I have loaded thousands of rounds over the last 60 years and never done it. and no problems , they always used to just sit them in a pan of water , heat the neck and tip them over
I was just wondering how your Kelbly Atlas 300PRC is doing? I was contemplating building one as well but considering custom 1:7 twist using heavy high BC bullets…Have you been happy with its accuracy??
Light the fires, let's do this!!
Since you are only bumping your shoulder .001 when the barrel heats up aren’t you going to have a harder time seating these rounds, don’t you want at least .002 bump on a bolt action and .003 bump on semi auto rifles?
Should you anneal rifle brass every time speaking of .223 but including all rifle brass or how often should i anneal and at what temperature should i do the .223
hey Gavin! Would love to see a detailed load development using multiple commonly available powder... like H 1000 and IMR 7828 and other powders too... whatever is clever!
Have you fire formed any 8 x 68s brass to 300 prc
Awesome vids Gavin. Been a fan for some time now. Keep the reloading videos coming. Question about making a modified case. I don’t have a lathe, or drill press, nor do I have access to either. Are there any other accurate methods to make one? I purchased the correct tap. Just need a way to accurately drill and tap my cases.
I use a cheap drill press, but if real careful , could probably do it with a simple hand drill
What is the target camera setup that measures your groups and everything that you use on your iPad when you’re shooting? You should do a video on it.
Shotmarker system: www.autotrickler.com/shotmarker.html He has a video of it where he does a demo.
With the shortage of 300 PRC components out there and several shooters who don't like Hornady brass, can you show some methods of forming 300 PRC out of other, more available cases?
Lapua will bringt out some 300 PRC Brass 2021
can you provide the link to where and exact dies you are using in this video. I am shopping for the exact dies. thank you
Precision shooters: have special annealing machines, must be perfect
Me: has a blowtorch, a TTT diagram/recrystalization chart, and a degree in Materials Engineering, eh its close enough
I used a socket a blow torch and tempil stick for a long time. Even made a video about it and people crapped on my telling me i annealed to far down. (spoiler I didnt) Technique > Gear. The Gear just makes life easier.
Good day sir, have you tried the 250g A Tip threw your 300PRC?
This is all good as long as you have a spare 10 grand laying around for all this high end gear!
You should have a Shoot with the Ultimate Reloader day. Maybe if you make some 1873 Springfield trapdoor 45/70 rounds I will let you shoot it.
Hey Gavin can you do some testing and reviews on the new .350 legend. Curious what your thoughts are.
When you bumped the shoulder 0.001 was that from a once fired case or a snug fitting case or off of a chamber print? And wouldn't that make a difference?
Once fired!
gavintoobe try shooting one case 2-3 times until it gets a little bit more snug in the chamber then bump the shoulder and compare that length to your once fired brass length with the 0.001 bump you gave it.
If you wanted to be scientific about this, you'd reload "normally" and see what differences you would get. Not anneal, standard hand primer, throw and trickel powder from a standard set up. What is the delta between the $6K reloading set up and the $1K (or less) setup.
that would be interesting. Loading a known accurate recipe after a simple resize and trim on something like a lee challenger press with lee dies, and then charge with the lee perfect powder measure or something similar (budget / medium quality scale for instance).
Then do the exact same cartridge but with all of the extra bells and whistles on a fancy press and test both for accuracy.
I've been wanting to do something similar but with weighing and sorting brass, bullets, primers, vs just grabbing components and sticking them together. I actually think my groups have tightened up some since switching to a powder measure over trying to weigh and trickle. The inexpensive scales seem to wander over time (sometimes a lot, .5-1 grains isn't unheard of with the shitty ones I've used) and that isn't something that you have to worry about with the measure, even if it isn't as accurate. The inaccuracy is accurate, where an intermittently wandering scale is hard to account for.
Agreed, that would be interesting! I read a few articles basically saying once you get a standard deviation below 8 fps and 1/2 moa accuracy to stop stressing the reloading process. I do think you need to go to the extreme if shooting elr.
Precision is precision - but to what degree? Using, as Rumble hints, what gain in accuracy can be seen when going all in with Gavin's process?. I use my Dillon RL550B with Dillon or RCBS or Hornady or Lee or Forster dies, depending on what I like in any given caliber(load several calibers.) But, my downrange results are consistent. There are some differences between load work up thus it is all in logbooks. If I were trying to mail a gnat's ass at 1000 yds then I might want to go in tor the super precise handload process. I must say, though, if I could afford all the toys in the Gavin classroom I would have many of them. I get great results out to 300 yds which for this 71 year old 11B is far enough. I can.t even see 300 yds......
@Rumblestrip.NET He started off by shooting factory ammo which is the less expensive setup you asked for. ;)
Hi there, I'm a young shooter from New Zealand. I use the lee 50th anniversary set, lapua brass, CCI primers, IMR4064 and Hornady ELD-M 178gr projectiles. My current load consistently prints sub .4 MOA at groups at 100m out of my Suppressed but otherwise completely stock remington 700 SPS tactical .308.
I am fairly picky about ensuring that the powder charge is as near to identical every load using the balance beam powder scale. I am religious about brass cleanliness and very careful with the necks of the brass after shoulder bumping with the lee neck sizing die. I have never measured neck tension/runout as I don't have the tools. I'm not convinced that it would be worth the time investment.
My rifle cost $1100 NZD and the reloading setup was $350 NZD. Sure, the way I load is very time consuming but goes to show that with patience and practice there is no need to spend thousands on either rifles or reloading gear. I would argue that precision reloading and shooting is 90% care and patience and 10% accurate gear.
I am reading your article interestingly.
Recently, I saw Reddit reloading 82 grain of N570 powder to achieve a speed of 2905 (hornady 250grain a-tip 26barrel).
He said the life span of the barrel is only slightly reduced and there is no safety issue.
But, According to the reload data released by Hornardy, The maximum charge was 77 grain(when used h1000 powder)
So, I wonder Is it really safe.
What do you think about that?
FYI, .001 shoulder bump will not be enough for each case, as each case will vary in the amount it wants to be bumped. I always go .002 to .003 to get the best accuracy.
Nope- not when you anneal! :) Close to zero springback.
lukkar69 , hi that’s exactly what I have to do with my 6.5x47 cases and I do anneal with the AMP annealer and I have a custom cut chamber and use Whidden dies , I use Lapua brass and still they don’t all resize the same , annealing softens the neck and shoulders yes , but the brass can very in different thicknesses resulting with some moving forward more than others.
GianniG, exactly, I want zero contact of the case what so ever, if you bump it at .001 and one is touching you will get a pressure spike that will give you vertical in your groups. I’ve learned the hard way.
Yes your right , when I started to reload this particular cartridge { 6.5x47 } I would bump 1.5 thou / 0.002 thou then chamber some of the rounds only to find that some would fit back into the chamber fairly smoothly and some would be extremely tight so I had to bump back to 3 / 3.5 thou to get cases to rechamber properly, but one of the problems we reloaders face is that we can spend good money on custom chambers only to have factory spec dies to resize our brass which is not that good in the real world, custom dies would need to be made or homed to better fit and resize our brass.
GianniG , I’ve now switched over to custom dies myself.
It's great to see the-sky-is-the-limit reloading techniques. There's one aspect that sort of fascinates me, but information on it is VERY thin (but extant): primer and bullet sealants. There are actually precision machines to "microinject" tiny quantities of sealants onto the primer and bullet seating crevices -- but the same can be done precisely by hand as well. In this case I'd be curious if there was an effect on accuracy and/or pressures (I wouldn't think so). Especially with this sort of super-precision rifle, I like the (sort of fantasy) idea of loading several hundred rounds, all sealed and stable, for...you know, a "rainy day." Anyone have any experience or interest in primer and bullet sealants?
I always enjoy your content. But clearly you are a professional handloader, not the average Joe DeerTaag running up a few rounds for opening day. I'm more the latter.
Hence, the handloading investments I've made are simply a means to an end, not the end goal in and of itself. Guess that's why I still use my same ol' RCBS Rock Chucker II single stage press kit I bought over thirty years ago for something like $250 bucks. 😂
Hey Gavin any recommendation for 300 PRC in subsonic load?
Weight sort the primers and measure each bullet BTO and see if it matters at 1000 and beyond
Kent Hall looks like a good thought but are you trying to weigh the primer cup or the primer chemical quantity of each primer and even if you get a consistant weight on a batch how can you tell if there's more weigh of the cup with less content of the primer chemical versus less weight of each cup with more chemical balancing out your weight measured?
What's the cost comparison between reloading and factory ammunition? 50% cheaper? 75%?
Initially much more expensive. If you write off the cost of the gear I'd say 1/2 to 2/3. It more about tailoring the ammunition to your rifle. The cost saving is a bonus 😉
Something I haven't seen possibly because PRC is so new is a comparison with .300 win mag.
The comparison is waste of money. I load my win mag at a little over 3.7 coal and around 2.940" ogive. 2930fps avg. with 77.4gr of H1000. If I was retarded, I'd make a big deal out the belt on the case and cry about not being able to load them long (this one I still don't get) and start menstruating like some do, but I don't. I size just like I do any other cartridge and bump the shoulder a couple thousandths and I'm off to a mile.
I'm 6 minutes into this and I feel like I'm watching an infomercial about products.
What sized neck bushing are you using. Thanks!
Why full length resize and not neck size? These being refired from same rifle?
ruclips.net/video/lLG2kSrD40g/видео.html
here is one video explaining some problems with neck sizing.
the best F-class shooters in the world full-length size. ruclips.net/video/vaqg4sJvg24/видео.html
I’ve done both full length and neck sizing and honestly haven’t had issues with either method. Interesting of f class using full length resizing though
Because it's only resized slightly, which is more effective at coaxing consistent behavior out of your brass.
I shoot 1000 yard br nilot f-class and almost everybody I know including an awful lot of hall of farmers only use full length dies. The reason is simple. If you only neck size in about 3 reloads your brass will grow beyond the headspace of your chamber resulting in hard bolt close when clambering your round. The brass will be inconsistent lengths also and one might close hard and one might close real easy. Brass that chambers hard meaning you feel pressure on the bolt handle when closing it will flex your action and brass that closes easy will not. This will induce vertical into your groups. Full length sizing can push your shoulder back the desired .001 to .003 and bring the shoulder diamameter and body down a couple thou also. These will chamber very easily because they have the required clearance now.when everything fits right your shoulder will be no more than .003 shorter and if you take the firecontrol out of your bolt the handle will fall closed under its own weight. Easy bolt close helps in another way also. It helps keep your gun stable in the bags while loading. All this consistency is very important to group good at 1000 yards. It's really needed to shoot your best 100 and 200 yard groups too. Short range benchrest guys full length size now also. I will never own another neck only die again unless you have a body die to run with it. His garage is like the reloading compared to cars of Jay Leno. A person with 1000 bucks can make ammo as good as a 6000 set up. There are very good tools available to the average reloader now. Proper use is what's needed to get the results. Good luck guys and if you don't understand some of what I just said ask and I will say it a different or more complete way for you.
Gavin, what kind speed are you getting out of these ?
I’m surprised you weren’t running the PraziPress..!
I like how the 300prc hornady dies come with the wrong seating stem and it deforms the bullets that hornady loads in their factory ammo…. How does the team that produced this half baked product have a job anymore?
Helpful tip: lookup hornady part number 397111 for loading 225gr ELDM.
I hate watching your videos, it makes me want all the reloading toys
Good stuff, thanks for all your videos and the wealth of info :) What is/was you seating depth of the bullets ?
Greetings from Iceland :)
Gavin, try wilson arbor dies, better concentricity and very precise! Cheers! If you want the roll royce of presses check out the "eterna" of Salvadori firenze, you can find them on facebook, the best press in the word for.me
A Federal 215 Magnum Match primer would help your overall accuracy.
Gavin if I sent you a fired and sized 6.5 PRC case would you make a modified case for me?
7.62x54man you’d only want it fired. You wouldn’t want to resize the body.
Hornady will do it for like $5 or so... :)
See: www.hornady.com/reloading/precision-measuring/precision-tools-and-gauges/oal-gauges-modified-cases#!/ - scroll down to the very bottom :)
What’s the purpose of aneling the case?
You know when you bend a wire back and forth it work hardens and breaks?
Aneling normalizes the case so that it can be worked for longer periods of time before failure and maintains neck tension.
What does OCW stand for?
Optimal Charge Weight
That brass just shit on all those processes.
Fuck yeah!
You must have a lot of money!
No more, he spent it all on reloading stuff
He gets a tonne of sponsorship. Free equipment etc. and he'll give the companies a plug on his channel.
I’ll go ahead and admit it, I have reloading room envy 🙋♂️
😊
How does the Weatherby 7mm compare to the 300 PRC or the 6.5 Prc?
This is a long video/podcast ruclips.net/video/HZ0yw-Q3atI/видео.html
But it will give you the answers you crave. Long story short, the 300 PRC outperforms every 30 caliber on the market, and outperforms every 338 lapua load on the market.
you did not clean them in any way.and you did not show how you remove your primaries
Hay horndi a.tip 230 ok 👍 prs 300
Which headspace bushing did you use? Thanks!