💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/ Thanks so much for watching 🔥 Check out the other episode I mentioned HERE🔥 ruclips.net/video/LXP3uWHWGOM/видео.html
I’m using the most basic setup, no special upgrades. I want to get a solid foundation and improve technique, rather than throw money and gas at the problem to hide my lack of skill. Thanks for an amazing tuition!
Been welding stainless, inconell, titanium, hastaloy, berrillium you name it for 40 years or more. 37 with a worldwide corporation. Have many certificates, pressure vessel. Acids and nuclear piping. Really no surprises with 304 or 316 SS. Make sure it's clean and on pipe prepared to a 37.5 degree angle and properly purged to eliminate sugar and walk the cup. Many hours of that will produce a machine quality weld. I like your videos, you are a very talented professional tradesman. Keep up the good work, it's a blessing to have someone that is willing to pass on all the professional tips that you do.
Ordered my first welder and you were one of the RUclipsrs that made me feel confident that I could learn this skill. I look forward to learning more from your videos.
@m135i. Ya mine are Grey, but today the started to get some gold color to them. Just keep playing with your amp adjustments. A couple of other things I have changed that have helped a lot. -Keep a super tight arc. I was having issues lifting my arm as I welded. -Use a thicker filler rod. -Use a #12 cup on stainless. -also, ramp into you arc. Light the arc and give it 2 seconds before you increase amps. I've noticed increasing amps to fast was blowing off the tip of my tungsten even though a partially blunt my tungsten. Good luck man.
@@m135i.if ur getting gray on stanless and no color, your cooking it. Ur either too hot or going to slow. Next time, free hand lay wire and do it quicker with the right amps and youll get what im saying
I’m a complete beginner, starting welding 4weeks ago with a view to getting some well paid work in the future, I already love it and I’m really enjoying these vids you make, keep it up!
Arc length, gas flow, torch angle, tungsten size, rod size, travel speed, material thickness and amperage. Not much to consider when welding stainless 😳
Years ago I made a stainless exhaust for a Land Rover. The tubes and plate were, I would guess, at least 1 mm thick (1.2 mm?) so quite heavy. I had probably 1.6 mm stainless rods and an A/C stick welder with an 80 volt output. To my surprise I had no problem with any of the welds which all flowed nicely, didn't blow through and looked good. I still have the welder and would do the same again, however with thinner stainless MIG or TIG might be necessary
@@zaehehe Hi Zae, I don't know I'm afraid! I've never done TIG, though I understand it's good for very thin metal and aluminium, and have never welded stainless with MIG. I just thought it was worth mentioning that I got a good result using stick because it's simple. However the welder I used, an oil cooled Pickhill, does have both 50 and 80 volt outputs, both A/C. I was advised to use the 80 volt output with the rods I was sold. Stick gives good penetration but, in my experience, only works with thin metal if you start the weld on thicker and tease the weld pool onto the thin. Sometimes it's possible to get a series of small, brief tacks onto thin metal then weld to those. It's tricky though and the result isn't pretty!
Been welding mig and stick professionally for about 3 years. Picked up a Alphatig 201XD this year and paired it with a CK Worldwide Torch and Furick Cups. Been using it heavily all year on Stainless, Mild Steel, and Aluminum. It's performed really well on bigger jobs where I've had to weld bigger sections of handrail. For a starter I would highly recommend checking it out. I still go back stick welding since that is my specialty but it's always nice to pull the tig out for some more relaxing welds.
Semi-new to Tig welding but bought an Everlast 252 Sti and honestly, JESUS H. CHRIST this simple little video brought my skills up 10 fold! Awesome tutorial and I appreciate the knowledge you share with the world and the easy way you lay it all out for us regular dudes! 🙏🏻
Got a standard 17 torch with all standard consumables (standard pink ceramic #5 and #7 cups with a standard collet bodies). Seems to work well. Especially only tig welding for a year I heard it was better to use standard while you're getting your technique correct.
Stainless tig is about gas coverage. Use a 10 or 12 standard ceramic cup. Take it from a pipe welder who use to weld only 316/309 schedule 10. You want to weld hot get that puddle formed then move fast to keep your haz zone small. I have been welding professionally for 11 years. I do everything from carbon, stainless and chrome.
Another trick I use for controlling heat on joints, is using many small tacks to allow the heat to travel evenly through each piece. A good trick for steel field fit ups in the field that are massively gapped.
Thank you for this and your other videos, they are very helpful. I am a complete novice. In answer to your question, I am currently using a very standard set up of standard ceramic cups and collets on a 17F torch. I have tried some of the fun glass cups and gas lenses, but I have come to the conclusion that they are largely of no benefit until I get the basics under control, so I am sticking with normal ceramic cups for now. When I can actually run a bead and feed some filler with some consistency, then I may try the fancy cups again and see if I can get a benefit. Thanks again for your concise and well presented tutorials.
I'm new to tig welding, I started arc welding over thirty years ago and picked up some mig over the past ten years, most of my work is structural and machinery repair. My tig setup is a Harbor Freight special with their consumables to help me get my feet wet. It gets the job done for a starter machine (I have only had about three or four hours of playtime with it), if I get comfortable with it I'll look into a more substantial machine but that's a bit down the road.
@@mossranchoutdoors7249 I honestly don't have any other tig experience to compare it with. I've been able to initiate an arc easily and exactly where I want it, I've used it to spot weld some sheet metal together and that was pretty cool. What I can suggest, being a beginner myself, is that having a machine with hf start makes the learning process less frustrating. Another nice feature to have on the "wish list" is a machine with internal pre and post flow for argon, remembering to turn on and off can create frustration as well.
@@mossranchoutdoors7249 i actually sold my hobart and went with the hf vulcan protig 200 ac/dc output, and it's one quality welder- the other hf / Chicago electric welders are junk, but hf titanium and vulcan brand inverter welders are top notch.
@@nac4965 thanks guys I’m also looking into a cheap entry machine to get past the learning curve, and then see how much I like it and either just use it occasionally or jump forward and get a good one.
Clamping aluminum cooling/backing plates is a super useful way to keep heat out. They didn’t teach me that at school, but I learned it real quick on the job.
one of the things i found that really helped was knowing how wide my bead should be, coming from mig the beads were a lot bigger and i tried to make them the same just not knowing and put way too much heat into the base metal trying to get a bigger bead.
That’s a really good observation- just shows how once you get comfortable switching from one process to the other it’s great to know how to do both! Thanks for checking out the vid!🙏
TurboMeo that’s where I am at right now. Today I was welding stainless 1/8’ square stock. Making an arm that will push a big rack up and down on a machine. Was thinking the wider my weld the better off I am. Not the case then? I just feel like a weld that is about 1/4 wide or less won’t take much of the strain……
I primarily use Edge and Furick cups with ck worldwide gas lens. Plus a ck worldwide, 19 water cooled torch setup, and a Fronius magicwave 230i tig welder.
At work I have run many different EDM machines to remove metal quickly, then, before you get to the final depth, the inspector wants you to step down the power, step by step to lessen the heat effected zone and eliminate cracks, especially in machining carbide, it can get brittle when heated.
Ok I’m watching this, and other videos, for a project I’m doing Friday or Monday. I should be ready by then if you can count watching you weld as experience haha!
Thank you for sharing your tips and techniques that come out of passion and experience. Vancouver Island has an amazing artist community. Good surfing in Torfino to.
Never done TIG but absolutely echo the remarks about cleaning the work well for any kind of welding. It makes so much difference. That said I have managed to get a good bead on steel, using stick, through quite thick scaly rust, just to see if it could be done.
CRIKEY ... after a career of sitting in front of a computer and now at 62 I've just ordered my first multi-process welder and wouldn't you know it .. this guy Dusty has got me hooked on the idea of Pyrex gas lens before my welder has even hit the doorstep! Yeh I know .. that wasn't the lesson, but they looked really cool.
The other thing to mention is when you overheat stainless to the point oxidation occurs. You are creating toxic fumes. Which if inhaled for prolonged periods can cause hexachromate poisoning ( not sure of spelling). Basically a corrosive, heavy metal poisoning that can erode your septum and other long term health issues. This along with the obvious distortion that comes with overheating (especially with stainless) and the degradation of structural integrity are good reasons to control your total heat input (joules) that goes into your work. Regardless of material or process. TIG, MIG, PULSE, STICK etc. It can be controlled in various ways, But as you've stated , travel speed is a constant variable in total heat input. It's not just looks it's structural integrity as well. A great video with really solid advice and techniques. 👍👍
Do you know where I can find a «base line sheet» for tig welding? I have a 5 mm plate that I use at work, and most of my welds has a big oxidation area. I cant figure out what settings I need to use.
@@jallakongen5339 ESAB has a bunch of great tutorials as well as baseline data. Also highly recommend The FABRICATION SERIES , TFS how to make perfect stainless welds. As with all welding baselines will get you in the ballpark, but there are many other factors, arc length, travel speed etc. Some of it can be counter intuitive. Like upping your amperage to reduce your total heat input (joules) Because you can increase travel speed while maintaining proper penetration. This is all assuming proper equipment, gas, gas flow, and material prep etc. Hope this helps.
I want to say that I've only seen a couple of your videos and i dig what your doing. Heat affected area is key for sure, luckily i was taught about this. But with that said please teach about amperage my man!!! You don't turn a a knob to control heat it's a knob for amps and sometimes volts. But referring to it as heat it creates a false thought that turning your machine down will result in less blow out and such. I know I've been a victim of that thinking. Yes Amperage relates to the temp in which your material gets to. If your welding with too little amps then it takes longer for your material to break down and your puddle to start and you have to go slower and that results in more heat being distributed and a bigger heat affected zone. The higher the amps the faster the puddle starts and the quicker you can weld thereby a smaller heat affected zone.
I agree. Keeping amps the same and ripping a bit faster like I show in the demo is the way I usually do it. Overfilling the start, (fill and Chill) let’s you keep the same heat (amps) and get ripping faster like you say🤙🤙
@@PacificArcTigWelding i only mentioned it because I've had the problem of turning down the "heat" only to overheat my work because amps don't correlate to heat. The fill and chill works 100%, but the work i do is pipe and some inspectors are anal about the HAZ. Often we're given parameters in our work orders from amperage to numbers of passes allowed and heat affected zones. The last job i was on they had a nifty little set of guages to inspect our welds with. Anyway keep on with the content, your doing a great thing here!
I'm a mig welder by day and i sooooo wish my bosses would learn a little bit about this hahaha. they get mad about other people pulling the heck out of stuff so they bring the same thing to me and tell me to run it cold... and then get mad when i crank it up instead and it doesn't pull🤣 its funny but still...
1/16” SS is relatively easy. Now have a shot with mild steel - 1;16”. Without blowing holes…. I enjoy watching your vids, and happy you can’t hear me swearing, 🤣🤣🤣. Thanks for posting. 👏👏👏 👋👋👋 🇦🇺
excellent channel. very professional filming, I wish these videos were available 40 years ago when I learned TIG in school and would end up crying with rage and frustration in my booth.
Hi Dusty I really enjoy your RUclips channel. Back in the 80’s I did a one week course at the Stoody Hard Surfacing school in Anaheim Ca. On one of the days they took us into their area where they were experimenting with new techniques. One of the things I tried was TIG welding with hydrogen as a shielding gas. When I tell people about that they usually respond with “But that would burn!” Yes it did, but with a very soft flame. The major benefit was that it gave a very shallow penetration, which may have been beneficial in some applications of hard surfacing thin materials. I live on Pender Island. I’d like to drop by your shop someday and view your art work. Cheers Glenn
I use "chill bars" for reducing what we "call heat mark" on stainless steel. Just a simple aluminum backer. Luke a flat bar, or angle. At least 1/4" thick. It works like a heat sink. We use this when flat welding stainless steel countertops. I'm usually successful with zero warp.
Everlast 325EXT with standard consumables. Just ordered a bargain Pyrex kit. Been using E3 purple. Just ordered some blue 2% lanthanated also. When it all gets here ima headed to the bench to play.
Thank you for these videos. They have been most helpful as relearn how to weld and learn how to TIG weld. I have been making small things and will be working on some larger projects soon.
I’m in welding school currently and we are finally in tig and I love it and your videos have helped me so much I’m best in my class and I’m able to help my buddies thanks man
Hi Dusty, like your video's, keep up the good works here! Almost pulled the plunge on an easy to use MIG machine but decided to go for TIG and being able to make neat welds on Aluminium too. Thanks for the tips and tricks, will need them after buying my first TIG machine
There's a related thing like this is soldering - something I wasn't taught, either, but which works very well. Basically, create the puddle attached to the soldering iron - then you dip the puddle onto the board, and when the lead and board are hot enough - the puddle automatically transfers itself to the board and you're done. I never had to worry about overheating the board or the component. It looks like what you're doing is creating a slightly oversized puddle and walking it down the material as soon as it transfers ITSELF to the connection. Neat.
I just got the CK Worldwide 26 Flex with the red whip. Bought it after seeing your CK WW review & it totally makes my AC/DC inverter sing. I'm just using standard cups at the moment, as I'm still learning & want to nail this before moving onto gas screens, bigger cups ect ect....keep up the great work Dusty!...Cheers from lockdown in Sydney....
Hey Started thinking of welding over a year ago and roughly 3 month ago i bough my first welder AC/DC pulse TIG 200A I watched plenty of youtube welders since and i am after ca. 20 L of ARGON so very little but what i learned is mine.xd So i use mainly 2.4 mm gold tungsted rod (0.6 - 5mm material thickness) with screen. My most common lens is size 8 and I have 12 that i used few times but 8 is my choice, when welding thin metals like 1mm i might use lens number 6 or 5 for economy. So far i managed to replace aluminium outlets on my radiator - i actually used too little argon on this and that contaminated weld - i was cooking off dirt for long time. That is when i realised that welds should be put maximally fast to deliver least heat to material and fuse as fast as possible. After that i managed to replace 3 rust spots on my car panels and right now i am 80% ready with my exhaust manifold - made my own template to cut 4-1 merge and i also measured and cut pieces for one pair of cylinders so one left and ill be done and ready for welding. Recent days i was actually playing with my pulse settings - i havent tested extremes i.e. minimum base current/minimum duty/ and as much peak current as possible and that compared to low/high frequency like 0.5Hz/100Hz The most difficult thing after u learn setting machine is simply controlling your torch while applying filler with other hand - u need to be very skilful imo - one of most difficult things to learn
Im currently using an everlast 185 DV. For stainless I've been using Furick stubby gas lenses and various ceramic and pyrex cups, depending on what I'm doing and how much gas I want to use. Long runs are getting the BBW (sometimes the fupa or the moosenuckle, but for serious stuff, it gets the 19) treatment, but for tacks and short beads I'll use a #8-#10 pyrex cup to save some gas. Good tip about the fill and chill, I hadnt thought about that and I try to get moving as fast as possible to keep the heat out, but filler makes sense too.
Hey dusty youve grown upwith tech ! We scratched n learnt keeep going pal ! I teach as i weld you explain things i for got ! 👍len australia welding st/ st 30 years
I've done some stainless. I don't use anything special, just a stubby gas lense kit I got from Amazon, and a Harbor Freight Protig 205. Those weld stainless just great! I just use a #8 gas cup when doing stainless. Nothing expensive is required to get beautiful welds. I'm not picky with my tungsten when doing stainless. Just something that works with DC tig.
Thank you Dusty for your kind words and attitude. Just about to start with TIG and love your tutorials. From an Oxy back ground and some time ago as well. Have the new machine. Hope to start soon, Cheers.
Moved from a Binzel WP20 to a CK230 Flexlock, always use super flex cables, a zip up cable cover and I add my own strain relief at the handle and machine end to keep it running for years. On the front of the torch, for stainless, 4130 or other materials requiring the extra attention I run either a Furick 10 or 12 white ceramic (fupa I think it's called) or an XL gas lense with whatever ceramic does the job. For aluminium, when it's under 150A delicate stuff I use the CK with normal collects and ceramics, but if it needs more than about 150A I go to my Binzel WP18SC, this is the type Super Cool where the ceramic threads directly to the cooled part of the torch body (as opposed to the collet) which greatly improves the life of the ceramics and stops them exploding on you for high amperage AC. I'll admit, I'm watching your videos because even after 15 years in the trade and 8 years running my own business I still have loads to learn, I especially find helpful the stuff about gas shielding flow rates, maybe this would make for a good video? Thanks
I'm now using a 17 style torch with a 3/32 tungsten and a 7 ceramic cup flowing about 15CFH. I make the ugliest welds east of the Mississippi, but I'm only starting with fewer than 24 hours of seat time.
I started welding at age 19 and continued on until my retirement a few years ago. I have a provincial first class ticket, have qualified numerous times for CWB and held a B pressure ticket issued by ASME for the last twenty year on my work life. I was also TIG certified for steel, aluminium and stainless steel. You have missed two very important things that are literally rules when it comes to TIG welding. First, for any TIG welding, if you stick the tungsten to the parent material when welding don't weld any further until you use a stainless rated grinding wheel and grind out all of the weld at the point where you got stuck. When you stick the electrode when you break it loose, frequently the tip of the electrode is left in the weld. If you don't grind it out you will find that you have a lot of trouble with porosity and getting the filler to flow. In addition, if you are doing welds that must be waterproof that tiny bit of tungsten will cause a leak. Second, when cleaning stainless steel or aluminium with a wire wheel, make sure the wheel is stainless and never use that wheel on mild or carbon steel. The problem lies in the transference of metal onto the surface being cleaned. A carbon steel wheel will contaminate stainless or aluminium and render it less that perfect for welding purposes. If you use a stainless wheel on carbon and then try to use it on stainless or alloy you will have the same problem since you contaminated the wheel with particles of carbon steel.
Modern welders just don't seem as phased by this contamination ..even on alloy..I've got a brand new cheap machine and it goes as good as 30k miller (first 2 died second one was great but unscreened logic chips it didn't last) but for the cost it's great and hey they all cum from China even the label says made in america.. The new machine seems to reject the contaminants and carry on I was like oh wow ..normally have to snap the tip of toungstan and reball the end as with alloy u can't even grind it it's worse than stainless
This was great I mainly do aluminium tig I use 5 or 6 sized standard 9 series cups adapted to suit a ck 17 touch and It always works well. Fupa 12 for stainless Fupa 10 for steel Love your work!!!
I guess I don’t understand all these abbreviated words but I don’t own a TIG yet. In my early 60’s I just want to learn. Building a pickup from my youth with new headers, “aged-Band” and reclaimed 300 series exhaust pipe from the donor video. I will mostly end up with a back-purge weld that works ok, but leaning towards a Harbor Freight Protig 205. I’ve own and extra heavy duty MIG since 1984 and ran miles of wire thru it. Not buying shinny stuff for under my truck even fought I will hit some gravel roads, I want it to hold together. I am a dealer tech with years of aftermarket experience yet I am not going down to the local exhaust shop to trust a kid who hasn’t shaved yet, to do a job I can weld. Maybe I am in the wrong place here. All my laptops are dead and iPhone 6 my son sent is ok for now. After teaching others from serial data, to 6 different electrical classes, I don’t want most touching anything I own. GM and others use 300 series stainless steel pre cat and that is what I am re-using. Got the better “Vee-Band” clamps for service, not looks. I just build something that with maintenance will last 20+ years. That’s it. Who wants to fix something the wrong way over & over, I don’t. This ones for me for a change. Thanks! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired.
Using the Teflon cup box kit from TIGWARE. Can't go wrong, the stickout achievable and gas coverage is amaaaazing, not to mention, try break a Teflon cup if you accedently drop it.. you can't ;), I've just switched over to them and I'm not looking back.
I use a CK Worldwide #17 torch with a #12 Fupa Cup and gas lens. I run at about 25cfm. My main problem as I learn is keeping a consistent speed and torch angle. I find myself laying it over the side a little too much, causing my filler to melt before getting to the weld pool. I’ve only done Tig for a few days now, but really trying to get as much hood time as possible
Arc length is essential. GTAW is constant current process but heat is energy, voltage increases with arc length and this increases the energy put into the weld over time. Arc length also diffuses the heat over a greater area, making arc length double sensitive as an essential variable. Mild steel, stainless and aluminum all benefit from small heat affected zone. The few exceptions include chrome moly tube and other quench sensitive materials. Spreading the heat and allowing the weld to cool slowly prevents brittle failure. On chrome moly tube, the ideal appearance goes back to oxyacetylene days and significant strength is attained with use of ER70-S2 filler as its strength is significantly greater than RG45.
Running a CK17F 3/32 Lazr Tungsten with a #12 Furick for Stainless and a #8 Ceramic for Aluminum and CK gas lens on a Primeweld 225, not the most top dollar setup but definitely works for me.
I like to use a Furick 12 FUPA cup. On stainless I really improved once I followed what I call the Jeremy Clarkson model. More power and more speed. Yes it has to be within reason for the thickness of metal and joint configuration, but I did more damage with lower amps and having to move too slow. The HAZ would get huge and the weld would be gray. Bump up the power and the speed of travel and it clears up. I think the main lesson is you can be too afraid of heat and thus input too much heat.
Dusty. I really like your teachings as to how to start and get the proper speed and heat, but what you don't mention is the filler rod sizes. And I think that is just as important as the temperature. Thank you so much.
Hi Dusty. Great vid thanks for the tips. Love the “Fill and chill”. I just bought my first welder it’s an L-tech 250HF with a water cooled Tig torches foot peddle and thumb control and a box full of tungsten and lenses. Stick welding with a peddle has been a game changer. I can back off as the base metal warms. But that’s not why I bought it. I want to learn to TIG aluminum and Stainless. Thanks for your lessons.
I’m using a #17 torch with stubby collet bodies that lets me use #9 size standard ceramic cups. I feel like the shorter setup is a little more controllable / less shaky, while still being cheap for a beginner. I can also still use the standard #17 collet bodies and cups if I need the reach. Using only 2.4mm tungsten as well, for anything from 1/16” to 1/4”. For filler I use anything from twisted mig wire to 3/32” and I also find I favor thinner filler rods even though sometimes I struggle with the rod balling before I dab, but the that’s a good hint I’m too hot or too slow. But most of what I do is small hobby work and thinner metal so it probably just comes with the territory…
currently still a beginner tig welder, using an everlast 201 with the stock consumables. I did tig weld at my last job and im unsure what that rig was called.. definitely not a "name brand" regardless it did the job most of the time! blue demon tungsten blue color dont remember the composite. love the content my guy, enjoy the videos, I love watching and learning, Stainless is a bear to learn! but i love how clean it looks when it comes out properly!
I love tig. Several years I was tig welding special things for a government contractor. We had to weld everything- stainless, aluminum, steel and titanium( in a sealed chamber). I loved it as every weld had to be perfect as possible.
Lincoln Square Wave 200, standard 17 gas cooled torch body, Stubby collet kit, MFurick Jazzy 10 is my normal go to lens, but have a FUPA 12, and the 8 as well in case I need to weld Al.
Surface prep, being clean of mill scale Body position, do a dry run with torch before welding Hand control, be comfortable with position Breathing, be relaxed Grinding tungsten parallel and NOT perpendicular, angle of ground tip makes huge difference.
Dusty, that was an excellent instructional video. You kept on topic really well and your quick summaries after each section helped solidify the learning.
Great video my man. I've tig welded for over 40yrs . Made custom filtration systems of stainless for many different pharmaceutical companies all over. A long with carbon steel for industrial products. Taught many people how to tig . Some could , some couldn't. I can not teach left handed people how to weld at all. Tig , mig didn't matter the hand positioning and movement is totally different than a right handed person. 👍👍
I use a CK 26 watercooled torch, on a YesWelder with some aftermarket water cooler, Furick cups, and surprisingly this machine rips! I get great welds, though a lot of that is due to watching lots of your vids!
Used to run a Maxstar 200 for inconel and hastelloy turbine parts. Wp20 with the typical gas lens inside a double gas lens box with each screen bank 1.5x6” - If we didn’t have liquid argon it would have been 4-5 tanks a day per person. Still had to keep the amps low and cram the filler in.
Im in school for weld right now, using a small mig/stick welding machine. Standard ceramic cups. Im using ng thoriated electrodes, picked up a few ceriated.bim going to try and get correct electrica that work best for the base metal im welding. Tig is my favorite welding so far. My class not so much.
A couple of tips for SS: 1. Use a copper block on the backside of the work to regulate the heat. a copper block will pull heat way from the work preventing excess heat 2. When you finish your weld, Continue to hold the torch and let the shield gas flow. This will keep the work from oxidizing as it cools. 3. On the back side of the work piece, you need to provide some means to shield it from oxygen. The backside will get red hot. You can either use a sheild gas, steel, or SS foil. If your welding a tube, or some work peice that can be blocked off, you can use cheaper nitrogen gas as a shield gas. The backside does get as hot as weld arc, below the temperate that Nitrogen starts to breakdown to form nitrogen oxides.
Great tips. I've never used the copper block, though seen others do it. In my work, copper blocks just don't show up at every grocery store. Backside purging is essential, yes. I often use the black flux for this. 'Solar Flux B'. I find it is not perfect, but does help, and you can get those shiny welds with this. Try to get it on there good and thick, to cover the whole HAZ. I've also done argon purging, while crying over the expense. Works well. I've also often blocked the backside, and this can work well on flat butt-joint welds, etc that are easily blocked on the backside. I've tried generic stubby gas lenses - they work ok, but with my abuse, don't last long - they are poorly constructed and come apart after numerous heat cycles (friction fit parts in them). Because of this, I've gone through a fair number of stubby gas lenses and just got tired of paying for them, so I went back to standard cups and found the costs more reasonable and the results still ok, though I do like the gas lenses a little better. I normally use a 3/32" tungsten, and I find people don't talk enough about tungsten diameter. Recently I switched to 1/16" tungsten and discoverd they work nice on welds in lower amperage ranges - say 120A and lower. The smaller tungsten carries fewer impurities, (one makes mistakes, and this leads to impurities on the tungsten), and stay sharp longer, and focus the arc better - I was pleasantly surprised. I've tried the pyrex cups, the wide cups, etc. They never seem to assemble properly to the torch (I have standard 17 torch - weldcraft, CK, etc, air cooled), they are expensive, and I've not really had any luck trying to get them to work. I've done quite a lot of tig welding now, (10 years as a hobbyist - building ducts, stairs, railings, frames, trailers, flatbds, aluminum, stainless, etc). but still need very careful set-up and work to get really neat and pro quality results on stainless. One issue is I never do the same project twice, so I often don't spend a whole lot of time on dialing in the settings, the hand work, and the back purging. I would love to get myself a superflex hose, and make some creative grounding clamps that work in all different situations. - the welding position never seems good enough. I gotta find myself a copper block though.
You are so right. Learning the skill to do what you do is not possible just watching and listening to you. Where do we sign up. I'm ready to start practicing! Thanks.
For standard size cups I use standard consumables up to an 8 cup. I have a cheap ebay but decent gas kit with 5 up to 8 cups and a few clear cups ( I don't use normally they are cheap.) That are smaller so its a great micro setup.
Lincoln tig 200, I am very entry-level and have actually only used it for stick and once for aluminum. This is a cool video and I hope to get an opportunity to do some stainless welding and get that cool multicolor effect.
i use an mfurick jazzy 10 cup and a ck gas lense (#17 torch) or an edge #5 cup on a standard torch with one of those custom acrylic handles (super comfy, highly recommend) on a lincoln 225
The heat affected zone (HAZ) is not defined as you described. It is the unmelted area surrounding the weld deposit who's mechanical properties have been affected by the heat of the weld
💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/
Thanks so much for watching 🔥
Check out the other episode I mentioned HERE🔥 ruclips.net/video/LXP3uWHWGOM/видео.html
Good job. I tig and mig weld stainless steel all.day.
What are your thoughts on the primeweld 225 ac/dc tig set up?
Thank you for your explanations. I use a Lincoln MP210 and I am very satisfied with it. I am currently considered buying a dedicated TIG machine.
I’m using the most basic setup, no special upgrades. I want to get a solid foundation and improve technique, rather than throw money and gas at the problem to hide my lack of skill. Thanks for an amazing tuition!
Been welding stainless, inconell, titanium, hastaloy, berrillium you name it for 40 years or more. 37 with a worldwide corporation. Have many certificates, pressure vessel. Acids and nuclear piping. Really no surprises with 304 or 316 SS. Make sure it's clean and on pipe prepared to a 37.5 degree angle and properly purged to eliminate sugar and walk the cup. Many hours of that will produce a machine quality weld. I like your videos, you are a very talented professional tradesman. Keep up the good work, it's a blessing to have someone that is willing to pass on all the professional tips that you do.
Ordered my first welder and you were one of the RUclipsrs that made me feel confident that I could learn this skill.
I look forward to learning more from your videos.
How are you doing so far? I bought a welder a few days ago and my stuff are still super gray 🤣
@@m135i. haven’t had time to really work with it. The price of gas in the area I was living in was outrageous so I never got the chance to try.
@m135i. Ya mine are Grey, but today the started to get some gold color to them. Just keep playing with your amp adjustments. A couple of other things I have changed that have helped a lot.
-Keep a super tight arc. I was having issues lifting my arm as I welded.
-Use a thicker filler rod.
-Use a #12 cup on stainless.
-also, ramp into you arc. Light the arc and give it 2 seconds before you increase amps. I've noticed increasing amps to fast was blowing off the tip of my tungsten even though a partially blunt my tungsten.
Good luck man.
@@m135i.if ur getting gray on stanless and no color, your cooking it. Ur either too hot or going to slow. Next time, free hand lay wire and do it quicker with the right amps and youll get what im saying
I’m a complete beginner, starting welding 4weeks ago with a view to getting some well paid work in the future, I already love it and I’m really enjoying these vids you make, keep it up!
Arc length, gas flow, torch angle, tungsten size, rod size, travel speed, material thickness and amperage. Not much to consider when welding stainless 😳
You’re absolutely right… Took me so long to learn!🤙
Lolololol
Years ago I made a stainless exhaust for a Land Rover. The tubes and plate were, I would guess, at least 1 mm thick (1.2 mm?) so quite heavy. I had probably 1.6 mm stainless rods and an A/C stick welder with an 80 volt output. To my surprise I had no problem with any of the welds which all flowed nicely, didn't blow through and looked good. I still have the welder and would do the same again, however with thinner stainless MIG or TIG might be necessary
@@johnswimcat I know this is far from the original point, however, what are the differences each different weld (style?) makes?
@@zaehehe Hi Zae, I don't know I'm afraid! I've never done TIG, though I understand it's good for very thin metal and aluminium, and have never welded stainless with MIG. I just thought it was worth mentioning that I got a good result using stick because it's simple. However the welder I used, an oil cooled Pickhill, does have both 50 and 80 volt outputs, both A/C. I was advised to use the 80 volt output with the rods I was sold. Stick gives good penetration but, in my experience, only works with thin metal if you start the weld on thicker and tease the weld pool onto the thin. Sometimes it's possible to get a series of small, brief tacks onto thin metal then weld to those. It's tricky though and the result isn't pretty!
Been welding mig and stick professionally for about 3 years. Picked up a Alphatig 201XD this year and paired it with a CK Worldwide Torch and Furick Cups. Been using it heavily all year on Stainless, Mild Steel, and Aluminum. It's performed really well on bigger jobs where I've had to weld bigger sections of handrail. For a starter I would highly recommend checking it out. I still go back stick welding since that is my specialty but it's always nice to pull the tig out for some more relaxing welds.
Just started TIG in school! I love it so far!!
Best repayment request ever. That's the good stuff.
Just came across this GREAT Welder. You gotta love a humble and inspiring teacher, all the best Dusty
Semi-new to Tig welding but bought an Everlast 252 Sti and honestly, JESUS H. CHRIST this simple little video brought my skills up 10 fold! Awesome tutorial and I appreciate the knowledge you share with the world and the easy way you lay it all out for us regular dudes! 🙏🏻
Got a standard 17 torch with all standard consumables (standard pink ceramic #5 and #7 cups with a standard collet bodies). Seems to work well. Especially only tig welding for a year I heard it was better to use standard while you're getting your technique correct.
Stainless tig is about gas coverage. Use a 10 or 12 standard ceramic cup. Take it from a pipe welder who use to weld only 316/309 schedule 10. You want to weld hot get that puddle formed then move fast to keep your haz zone small. I have been welding professionally for 11 years. I do everything from carbon, stainless and chrome.
Like your message of positivity. There isn’t enough of that is the trades.
Another trick I use for controlling heat on joints, is using many small tacks to allow the heat to travel evenly through each piece. A good trick for steel field fit ups in the field that are massively gapped.
Except stainless is bad at radiating heat.
Thank you for this and your other videos, they are very helpful. I am a complete novice. In answer to your question, I am currently using a very standard set up of standard ceramic cups and collets on a 17F torch. I have tried some of the fun glass cups and gas lenses, but I have come to the conclusion that they are largely of no benefit until I get the basics under control, so I am sticking with normal ceramic cups for now. When I can actually run a bead and feed some filler with some consistency, then I may try the fancy cups again and see if I can get a benefit. Thanks again for your concise and well presented tutorials.
That’s what Justin from the fabrication series says every time!
I'm new to tig welding, I started arc welding over thirty years ago and picked up some mig over the past ten years, most of my work is structural and machinery repair. My tig setup is a Harbor Freight special with their consumables to help me get my feet wet. It gets the job done for a starter machine (I have only had about three or four hours of playtime with it), if I get comfortable with it I'll look into a more substantial machine but that's a bit down the road.
How do you like the HF welder? Been thinking about getting one to start out with.
@@mossranchoutdoors7249 I honestly don't have any other tig experience to compare it with. I've been able to initiate an arc easily and exactly where I want it, I've used it to spot weld some sheet metal together and that was pretty cool. What I can suggest, being a beginner myself, is that having a machine with hf start makes the learning process less frustrating. Another nice feature to have on the "wish list" is a machine with internal pre and post flow for argon, remembering to turn on and off can create frustration as well.
@@mossranchoutdoors7249 i actually sold my hobart and went with the hf vulcan protig 200 ac/dc output, and it's one quality welder- the other hf / Chicago electric welders are junk, but hf titanium and vulcan brand inverter welders are top notch.
@@nac4965 thanks guys I’m also looking into a cheap entry machine to get past the learning curve, and then see how much I like it and either just use it occasionally or jump forward and get a good one.
Clamping aluminum cooling/backing plates is a super useful way to keep heat out. They didn’t teach me that at school, but I learned it real quick on the job.
one of the things i found that really helped was knowing how wide my bead should be, coming from mig the beads were a lot bigger and i tried to make them the same just not knowing and put way too much heat into the base metal trying to get a bigger bead.
That’s a really good observation- just shows how once you get comfortable switching from one process to the other it’s great to know how to do both! Thanks for checking out the vid!🙏
TurboMeo that’s where I am at right now. Today I was welding stainless 1/8’ square stock. Making an arm that will push a big rack up and down on a machine. Was thinking the wider my weld the better off I am. Not the case then? I just feel like a weld that is about 1/4 wide or less won’t take much of the strain……
Fill and chill I always say to my classmates..they look at me like I'm crazy!! But your advice has me at the top of my class
Dude…. That is the best request anyone has ever asked for. Way to go man. Random acts of kindness. R
Looking forward to watching more of your videos. I am just getting started and playing in the garage with a Forney 220MP machine.
I primarily use Edge and Furick cups with ck worldwide gas lens. Plus a ck worldwide, 19 water cooled torch setup, and a Fronius magicwave 230i tig welder.
At work I have run many different EDM machines to remove metal quickly, then, before you get to the final depth, the inspector wants you to step down the power, step by step to lessen the heat effected zone and eliminate cracks, especially in machining carbide, it can get brittle when heated.
Yes! Higher carbon stuff becomes really brittle as you heat areas up. Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers 🤙
I’m really impressed by your teaching skills and insight, to say nothing of your welding. Great videos.
Ok I’m watching this, and other videos, for a project I’m doing Friday or Monday. I should be ready by then if you can count watching you weld as experience haha!
Go for it!🙏😂
Thank you for sharing your tips and techniques that come out of passion and experience. Vancouver Island has an amazing artist community. Good surfing in Torfino to.
Never done TIG but absolutely echo the remarks about cleaning the work well for any kind of welding. It makes so much difference. That said I have managed to get a good bead on steel, using stick, through quite thick scaly rust, just to see if it could be done.
CRIKEY ... after a career of sitting in front of a computer and now at 62 I've just ordered my first multi-process welder and wouldn't you know it .. this guy Dusty has got me hooked on the idea of Pyrex gas lens before my welder has even hit the doorstep!
Yeh I know .. that wasn't the lesson, but they looked really cool.
I came here for knowledge and gained it.
Forever coming back after peeping the Dillinger Escape Plan hat in the background 🤘🏻
The other thing to mention is when you overheat stainless to the point oxidation occurs. You are creating toxic fumes. Which if inhaled for prolonged periods can cause hexachromate poisoning ( not sure of spelling).
Basically a corrosive, heavy metal poisoning that can erode your septum and other long term health issues.
This along with the obvious distortion that comes with overheating (especially with stainless) and the degradation of structural integrity are good reasons to control your total heat input (joules) that goes into your work.
Regardless of material or process.
TIG, MIG, PULSE, STICK etc.
It can be controlled in various ways,
But as you've stated , travel speed is a constant variable in total heat input. It's not just looks it's structural integrity as well.
A great video with really solid advice and techniques. 👍👍
Do you know where I can find a «base line sheet» for tig welding? I have a 5 mm plate that I use at work, and most of my welds has a big oxidation area. I cant figure out what settings I need to use.
@@jallakongen5339 ESAB has a bunch of great tutorials as well as baseline data. Also highly recommend The FABRICATION SERIES , TFS how to make perfect stainless welds.
As with all welding baselines will get you in the ballpark, but there are many other factors, arc length, travel speed etc.
Some of it can be counter intuitive.
Like upping your amperage to reduce your total heat input (joules)
Because you can increase travel speed while maintaining proper penetration. This is all assuming proper equipment, gas, gas flow, and material prep etc.
Hope this helps.
I want to say that I've only seen a couple of your videos and i dig what your doing. Heat affected area is key for sure, luckily i was taught about this. But with that said please teach about amperage my man!!! You don't turn a a knob to control heat it's a knob for amps and sometimes volts. But referring to it as heat it creates a false thought that turning your machine down will result in less blow out and such. I know I've been a victim of that thinking. Yes Amperage relates to the temp in which your material gets to. If your welding with too little amps then it takes longer for your material to break down and your puddle to start and you have to go slower and that results in more heat being distributed and a bigger heat affected zone. The higher the amps the faster the puddle starts and the quicker you can weld thereby a smaller heat affected zone.
I agree. Keeping amps the same and ripping a bit faster like I show in the demo is the way I usually do it. Overfilling the start, (fill and Chill) let’s you keep the same heat (amps) and get ripping faster like you say🤙🤙
@@PacificArcTigWelding i only mentioned it because I've had the problem of turning down the "heat" only to overheat my work because amps don't correlate to heat. The fill and chill works 100%, but the work i do is pipe and some inspectors are anal about the HAZ. Often we're given parameters in our work orders from amperage to numbers of passes allowed and heat affected zones. The last job i was on they had a nifty little set of guages to inspect our welds with. Anyway keep on with the content, your doing a great thing here!
I'm a mig welder by day and i sooooo wish my bosses would learn a little bit about this hahaha. they get mad about other people pulling the heck out of stuff so they bring the same thing to me and tell me to run it cold... and then get mad when i crank it up instead and it doesn't pull🤣 its funny but still...
1/16” SS is relatively easy. Now have a shot with mild steel - 1;16”. Without blowing holes….
I enjoy watching your vids, and happy you can’t hear me swearing, 🤣🤣🤣.
Thanks for posting.
👏👏👏 👋👋👋 🇦🇺
excellent channel. very professional filming, I wish these videos were available 40 years ago when I learned TIG in school and would end up crying with rage and frustration in my booth.
Hi Dusty
I really enjoy your RUclips channel. Back in the 80’s I did a one week course at the Stoody Hard Surfacing school in Anaheim Ca. On one of the days they took us into their area where they were experimenting with new techniques. One of the things I tried was TIG welding with hydrogen as a shielding gas. When I tell people about that they usually respond with “But that would burn!” Yes it did, but with a very soft flame. The major benefit was that it gave a very shallow penetration, which may have been beneficial in some applications of hard surfacing thin materials. I live on Pender Island. I’d like to drop by your shop someday and view your art work.
Cheers
Glenn
I use "chill bars" for reducing what we "call heat mark" on stainless steel. Just a simple aluminum backer. Luke a flat bar, or angle. At least 1/4" thick.
It works like a heat sink. We use this when flat welding stainless steel countertops. I'm usually successful with zero warp.
Everlast 325EXT with standard consumables. Just ordered a bargain Pyrex kit. Been using E3 purple. Just ordered some blue 2% lanthanated also. When it all gets here ima headed to the bench to play.
I’m a Tig welder and I approve this video 👍🏿
Thank you for these videos. They have been most helpful as relearn how to weld and learn how to TIG weld. I have been making small things and will be working on some larger projects soon.
I’m in welding school currently and we are finally in tig and I love it and your videos have helped me so much I’m best in my class and I’m able to help my buddies thanks man
Hi Dusty, like your video's, keep up the good works here!
Almost pulled the plunge on an easy to use MIG machine but decided to go for TIG and being able to make neat welds on Aluminium too.
Thanks for the tips and tricks, will need them after buying my first TIG machine
There's a related thing like this is soldering - something I wasn't taught, either, but which works very well. Basically, create the puddle attached to the soldering iron - then you dip the puddle onto the board, and when the lead and board are hot enough - the puddle automatically transfers itself to the board and you're done. I never had to worry about overheating the board or the component. It looks like what you're doing is creating a slightly oversized puddle and walking it down the material as soon as it transfers ITSELF to the connection. Neat.
I just got the CK Worldwide 26 Flex with the red whip. Bought it after seeing your CK WW review & it totally makes my AC/DC inverter sing. I'm just using standard cups at the moment, as I'm still learning & want to nail this before moving onto gas screens, bigger cups ect ect....keep up the great work Dusty!...Cheers from lockdown in Sydney....
Hey
Started thinking of welding over a year ago and roughly 3 month ago i bough my first welder AC/DC pulse TIG 200A
I watched plenty of youtube welders since and i am after ca. 20 L of ARGON so very little but what i learned is mine.xd
So i use mainly 2.4 mm gold tungsted rod (0.6 - 5mm material thickness) with screen. My most common lens is size 8 and I have 12 that i used few times but 8 is my choice, when welding thin metals like 1mm i might use lens number 6 or 5 for economy.
So far i managed to replace aluminium outlets on my radiator - i actually used too little argon on this and that contaminated weld - i was cooking off dirt for long time. That is when i realised that welds should be put maximally fast to deliver least heat to material and fuse as fast as possible.
After that i managed to replace 3 rust spots on my car panels and right now i am 80% ready with my exhaust manifold - made my own template to cut 4-1 merge and i also measured and cut pieces for one pair of cylinders so one left and ill be done and ready for welding.
Recent days i was actually playing with my pulse settings - i havent tested extremes i.e. minimum base current/minimum duty/ and as much peak current as possible and that compared to low/high frequency like 0.5Hz/100Hz
The most difficult thing after u learn setting machine is simply controlling your torch while applying filler with other hand - u need to be very skilful imo - one of most difficult things to learn
I can’t agree more! Well said, and good for you forgetting your own set up! Have fun, and I appreciate you watching🤙
Im currently using an everlast 185 DV. For stainless I've been using Furick stubby gas lenses and various ceramic and pyrex cups, depending on what I'm doing and how much gas I want to use. Long runs are getting the BBW (sometimes the fupa or the moosenuckle, but for serious stuff, it gets the 19) treatment, but for tacks and short beads I'll use a #8-#10 pyrex cup to save some gas. Good tip about the fill and chill, I hadnt thought about that and I try to get moving as fast as possible to keep the heat out, but filler makes sense too.
Hey dusty youve grown upwith tech ! We scratched n learnt keeep going pal ! I teach as i weld you explain things i for got ! 👍len australia welding st/ st 30 years
Just subscribed today was my first time tig welding and watched a couple of videos and they really helped !
I've done some stainless. I don't use anything special, just a stubby gas lense kit I got from Amazon, and a Harbor Freight Protig 205. Those weld stainless just great! I just use a #8 gas cup when doing stainless. Nothing expensive is required to get beautiful welds. I'm not picky with my tungsten when doing stainless. Just something that works with DC tig.
Thank you Dusty for your kind words and attitude. Just about to start with TIG and love your tutorials. From an Oxy back ground and some time ago as well. Have the new machine. Hope to start soon, Cheers.
Clear presentation and very beneficial. Well done.
Moved from a Binzel WP20 to a CK230 Flexlock, always use super flex cables, a zip up cable cover and I add my own strain relief at the handle and machine end to keep it running for years. On the front of the torch, for stainless, 4130 or other materials requiring the extra attention I run either a Furick 10 or 12 white ceramic (fupa I think it's called) or an XL gas lense with whatever ceramic does the job. For aluminium, when it's under 150A delicate stuff I use the CK with normal collects and ceramics, but if it needs more than about 150A I go to my Binzel WP18SC, this is the type Super Cool where the ceramic threads directly to the cooled part of the torch body (as opposed to the collet) which greatly improves the life of the ceramics and stops them exploding on you for high amperage AC.
I'll admit, I'm watching your videos because even after 15 years in the trade and 8 years running my own business I still have loads to learn, I especially find helpful the stuff about gas shielding flow rates, maybe this would make for a good video?
Thanks
I'm now using a 17 style torch with a 3/32 tungsten and a 7 ceramic cup flowing about 15CFH. I make the ugliest welds east of the Mississippi, but I'm only starting with fewer than 24 hours of seat time.
I loved using my Miller Tig and after showing other people how to use a tig they bought their company one. I need to get a new welder.
That was super chill and insightful. Thanks dude.
I started welding at age 19 and continued on until my retirement a few years ago. I have a provincial first class ticket, have qualified numerous times for CWB and held a B pressure ticket issued by ASME for the last twenty year on my work life. I was also TIG certified for steel, aluminium and stainless steel. You have missed two very important things that are literally rules when it comes to TIG welding.
First, for any TIG welding, if you stick the tungsten to the parent material when welding don't weld any further until you use a stainless rated grinding wheel and grind out all of the weld at the point where you got stuck. When you stick the electrode when you break it loose, frequently the tip of the electrode is left in the weld. If you don't grind it out you will find that you have a lot of trouble with porosity and getting the filler to flow. In addition, if you are doing welds that must be waterproof that tiny bit of tungsten will cause a leak.
Second, when cleaning stainless steel or aluminium with a wire wheel, make sure the wheel is stainless and never use that wheel on mild or carbon steel. The problem lies in the transference of metal onto the surface being cleaned. A carbon steel wheel will contaminate stainless or aluminium and render it less that perfect for welding purposes. If you use a stainless wheel on carbon and then try to use it on stainless or alloy you will have the same problem since you contaminated the wheel with particles of carbon steel.
Modern welders just don't seem as phased by this contamination ..even on alloy..I've got a brand new cheap machine and it goes as good as 30k miller (first 2 died second one was great but unscreened logic chips it didn't last) but for the cost it's great and hey they all cum from China even the label says made in america..
The new machine seems to reject the contaminants and carry on I was like oh wow ..normally have to snap the tip of toungstan and reball the end as with alloy u can't even grind it it's worse than stainless
À Zach
This was great
I mainly do aluminium tig
I use 5 or 6 sized standard 9 series cups adapted to suit a ck 17 touch and It always works well.
Fupa 12 for stainless
Fupa 10 for steel
Love your work!!!
Amazing! Thanks for sharing and I appreciate you watching 🙏🙏
I guess I don’t understand all these abbreviated words but I don’t own a TIG yet. In my early 60’s I just want to learn. Building a pickup from my youth with new headers, “aged-Band” and reclaimed 300 series exhaust pipe from the donor video. I will mostly end up with a back-purge weld that works ok, but leaning towards a Harbor Freight Protig 205. I’ve own and extra heavy duty MIG since 1984 and ran miles of wire thru it. Not buying shinny stuff for under my truck even fought I will hit some gravel roads, I want it to hold together. I am a dealer tech with years of aftermarket experience yet I am not going down to the local exhaust shop to trust a kid who hasn’t shaved yet, to do a job I can weld. Maybe I am in the wrong place here. All my laptops are dead and iPhone 6 my son sent is ok for now. After teaching others from serial data, to 6 different electrical classes, I don’t want most touching anything I own. GM and others use 300 series stainless steel pre cat and that is what I am re-using. Got the better “Vee-Band” clamps for service, not looks. I just build something that with maintenance will last 20+ years. That’s it. Who wants to fix something the wrong way over & over, I don’t. This ones for me for a change. Thanks!
ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired.
Using the Teflon cup box kit from TIGWARE. Can't go wrong, the stickout achievable and gas coverage is amaaaazing, not to mention, try break a Teflon cup if you accedently drop it.. you can't ;), I've just switched over to them and I'm not looking back.
I use a CK Worldwide #17 torch with a #12 Fupa Cup and gas lens. I run at about 25cfm.
My main problem as I learn is keeping a consistent speed and torch angle. I find myself laying it over the side a little too much, causing my filler to melt before getting to the weld pool. I’ve only done Tig for a few days now, but really trying to get as much hood time as possible
Arc length is essential. GTAW is constant current process but heat is energy, voltage increases with arc length and this increases the energy put into the weld over time.
Arc length also diffuses the heat over a greater area, making arc length double sensitive as an essential variable.
Mild steel, stainless and aluminum all benefit from small heat affected zone. The few exceptions include chrome moly tube and other quench sensitive materials. Spreading the heat and allowing the weld to cool slowly prevents brittle failure. On chrome moly tube, the ideal appearance goes back to oxyacetylene days and significant strength is attained with use of ER70-S2 filler as its strength is significantly greater than RG45.
Awesome!! I love your advice!! I never though about using fill as an "insulator" for your base material.
Thanks for the video. Just bought myself a cheap second hand tig. Starting to learn.
I just picked up the HF pro tig 205 today!
You're a good dude mon bless you
Running a CK17F 3/32 Lazr Tungsten with a #12 Furick for Stainless and a #8 Ceramic for Aluminum and CK gas lens on a Primeweld 225, not the most top dollar setup but definitely works for me.
I like to use a Furick 12 FUPA cup. On stainless I really improved once I followed what I call the Jeremy Clarkson model. More power and more speed. Yes it has to be within reason for the thickness of metal and joint configuration, but I did more damage with lower amps and having to move too slow. The HAZ would get huge and the weld would be gray. Bump up the power and the speed of travel and it clears up. I think the main lesson is you can be too afraid of heat and thus input too much heat.
Thanks for the info! This video actually answers my question posted a bit back on another video!
Dusty.
I really like your teachings as to how to start and get the proper speed and heat, but what you don't mention is the filler rod sizes.
And I think that is just as important as the temperature.
Thank you so much.
Nice video Dusty. Also, the Dillinger Escape Plan is freekin awesome.
Hi Dusty. Great vid thanks for the tips. Love the “Fill and chill”.
I just bought my first welder it’s an L-tech 250HF with a water cooled Tig torches foot peddle and thumb control and a box full of tungsten and lenses.
Stick welding with a peddle has been a game changer. I can back off as the base metal warms. But that’s not why I bought it. I want to learn to TIG aluminum and Stainless. Thanks for your lessons.
lmao "peddle"
I run the 64-A2 with the McInbocker ends & sometimes run the ficMillups borm burm to gap the rimel rod
I’m using a #17 torch with stubby collet bodies that lets me use #9 size standard ceramic cups. I feel like the shorter setup is a little more controllable / less shaky, while still being cheap for a beginner. I can also still use the standard #17 collet bodies and cups if I need the reach. Using only 2.4mm tungsten as well, for anything from 1/16” to 1/4”. For filler I use anything from twisted mig wire to 3/32” and I also find I favor thinner filler rods even though sometimes I struggle with the rod balling before I dab, but the that’s a good hint I’m too hot or too slow. But most of what I do is small hobby work and thinner metal so it probably just comes with the territory…
currently still a beginner tig welder, using an everlast 201 with the stock consumables. I did tig weld at my last job and im unsure what that rig was called.. definitely not a "name brand" regardless it did the job most of the time! blue demon tungsten blue color dont remember the composite. love the content my guy, enjoy the videos, I love watching and learning, Stainless is a bear to learn! but i love how clean it looks when it comes out properly!
Light bue is 1.5% lanthiated and the darker blue 2%lanthiated
I love tig. Several years I was tig welding special things for a government contractor. We had to weld everything- stainless, aluminum, steel and titanium( in a sealed chamber). I loved it as every weld had to be perfect as possible.
Lincoln Square Wave 200, standard 17 gas cooled torch body, Stubby collet kit, MFurick Jazzy 10 is my normal go to lens, but have a FUPA 12, and the 8 as well in case I need to weld Al.
Thanks for this Dusty. 👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾
Surface prep, being clean of mill scale
Body position, do a dry run with torch before welding
Hand control, be comfortable with position
Breathing, be relaxed
Grinding tungsten parallel and NOT perpendicular, angle of ground tip makes huge difference.
Dusty, that was an excellent instructional video. You kept on topic really well and your quick summaries after each section helped solidify the learning.
Great video my man. I've tig welded for over 40yrs . Made custom filtration systems of stainless for many different pharmaceutical companies all over. A long with carbon steel for industrial products. Taught many people how to tig . Some could , some couldn't. I can not teach left handed people how to weld at all. Tig , mig didn't matter the hand positioning and movement is totally different than a right handed person. 👍👍
I’ve been struggling welding auto body sheet metal (20g). I get going then blow through. I think I’ll try this technique.
Grazie per i trucchi Polveroso.
I use a CK 26 watercooled torch, on a YesWelder with some aftermarket water cooler, Furick cups, and surprisingly this machine rips! I get great welds, though a lot of that is due to watching lots of your vids!
Used to run a Maxstar 200 for inconel and hastelloy turbine parts. Wp20 with the typical gas lens inside a double gas lens box with each screen bank 1.5x6” - If we didn’t have liquid argon it would have been 4-5 tanks a day per person. Still had to keep the amps low and cram the filler in.
Im in school for weld right now, using a small mig/stick welding machine. Standard ceramic cups. Im using ng thoriated electrodes, picked up a few ceriated.bim going to try and get correct electrica that work best for the base metal im welding. Tig is my favorite welding so far. My class not so much.
Learned heaps from your vids man keep it up.
excellent, really refreshing attitude
Thank you …… I’ve watched this several times so I bury it deep in my mind. This really helps. Thank you 🙏. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you very much!! I appreciate your way of teaching!!
You got me on edge. I currently have a stubby edge set up going. Pyrex cups are great.
Edge stubbies are SOOOOOOOO nice. The only time They’ve bummed me out is when I dropped them😂🤙
A couple of tips for SS:
1. Use a copper block on the backside of the work to regulate the heat. a copper block will pull heat way from the work preventing excess heat
2. When you finish your weld, Continue to hold the torch and let the shield gas flow. This will keep the work from oxidizing as it cools.
3. On the back side of the work piece, you need to provide some means to shield it from oxygen. The backside will get red hot. You can either use a sheild gas, steel, or SS foil. If your welding a tube, or some work peice that can be blocked off, you can use cheaper nitrogen gas as a shield gas. The backside does get as hot as weld arc, below the temperate that Nitrogen starts to breakdown to form nitrogen oxides.
Great tips. I've never used the copper block, though seen others do it. In my work, copper blocks just don't show up at every grocery store. Backside purging is essential, yes. I often use the black flux for this. 'Solar Flux B'. I find it is not perfect, but does help, and you can get those shiny welds with this. Try to get it on there good and thick, to cover the whole HAZ. I've also done argon purging, while crying over the expense. Works well. I've also often blocked the backside, and this can work well on flat butt-joint welds, etc that are easily blocked on the backside. I've tried generic stubby gas lenses - they work ok, but with my abuse, don't last long - they are poorly constructed and come apart after numerous heat cycles (friction fit parts in them). Because of this, I've gone through a fair number of stubby gas lenses and just got tired of paying for them, so I went back to standard cups and found the costs more reasonable and the results still ok, though I do like the gas lenses a little better. I normally use a 3/32" tungsten, and I find people don't talk enough about tungsten diameter. Recently I switched to 1/16" tungsten and discoverd they work nice on welds in lower amperage ranges - say 120A and lower. The smaller tungsten carries fewer impurities, (one makes mistakes, and this leads to impurities on the tungsten), and stay sharp longer, and focus the arc better - I was pleasantly surprised.
I've tried the pyrex cups, the wide cups, etc. They never seem to assemble properly to the torch (I have standard 17 torch - weldcraft, CK, etc, air cooled), they are expensive, and I've not really had any luck trying to get them to work. I've done quite a lot of tig welding now, (10 years as a hobbyist - building ducts, stairs, railings, frames, trailers, flatbds, aluminum, stainless, etc). but still need very careful set-up and work to get really neat and pro quality results on stainless. One issue is I never do the same project twice, so I often don't spend a whole lot of time on dialing in the settings, the hand work, and the back purging. I would love to get myself a superflex hose, and make some creative grounding clamps that work in all different situations. - the welding position never seems good enough. I gotta find myself a copper block though.
Your channel is sweet! I use an HTP Invertig 221, Edge consumables, and a Miller Weld Mask.
Thanks brother ,I didn't know this!🙏
Fill and chill! Works a charm. Always in my head 🤣
Ck 26 torch, stubby gas lens, jazzy10 cup for stainless. Ck stubby gas saver for aluminum and anything dirty.
You are so right. Learning the skill to do what you do is not possible just watching and listening to you. Where do we sign up. I'm ready to start practicing! Thanks.
For standard size cups I use standard consumables up to an 8 cup. I have a cheap ebay but decent gas kit with 5 up to 8 cups and a few clear cups ( I don't use normally they are cheap.) That are smaller so its a great micro setup.
No matter what process you are using, the *start* of the weld is *always* the most important part..!!!
Lincoln tig 200, I am very entry-level and have actually only used it for stick and once for aluminum. This is a cool video and I hope to get an opportunity to do some stainless welding and get that cool multicolor effect.
i use an mfurick jazzy 10 cup and a ck gas lense (#17 torch) or an edge #5 cup on a standard torch with one of those custom acrylic handles (super comfy, highly recommend) on a lincoln 225
Oh sweet! Those handles look awesome!
I run a CK flex torch on my AHP 200x, and use either ceramic or Pyrex #10 Furick cups, CK collet bodies and wedge collets.
Works pretty well for me.
The heat affected zone (HAZ) is not defined as you described. It is the unmelted area surrounding the weld deposit who's mechanical properties have been affected by the heat of the weld
Random acts of kindness! Amen Brother!